Investigative | Recordando el metro; (Reminiscing the metro)

Iloilo City's Dynamic Shift of Progress

WRITTEN BY MDPN. JAN CHRISTIAN CATILO & MDPN. DANIEL JUSTINE BELONIO

“Iloilo City, now greater than ever, is ready to take back the title of ‘Queen’ once more”

The Lady Patron

There, she stood proud and mighty atop a dome, a Lin-ay (young lady) made of 18-foot bronze by Ilonggo artist Ed Defensor. A tribute overlooking the metro Iloilo at high altitude, encompassing the nose-shaped river, an ever thriving port and the bustling city wide progress engraved in history and for more years to come - a symbol of prosperity rich cultural heritage, and the pride of Iloilo City and Province that lies at the center of the Philippine nation. An image of a native belle, holding a scythe in her left hand, and stalks of harvested rice in her right can be seen. She stands on a pedestal whose four sides are carved to show the major assets of the City and Province – rice, sugar cane, fishing and education. Indeed, a true beauty. The representation is uncanny to the city once called “Queen City of the South.” Iloilo City, now greater than ever, is ready to take back the title of ‘Queen’ once more.

Where it began

It was at the middle of the 19th century when Iloilo was opened for world trade at the advent of the Spanish colonialism, Iloilo struck gold for its early advancement than the surrounding provinces due to the onset of rapid production of the sugar industry in the city and province. At that time, Iloilo was hailed as the regional economic center second only to Manila - the capital of the country and the center of the Spanish government. You can see on the map that Iloilo was a strategic location for commerce and water trade as Guimaras Island became its protector from the gush of bad weather and typhoons. This renders the shores of Iloilo city and its river as an ideal place for a port to operate. As a trading hub, the city became a subject for travelers and visiting mestizos to be attracted that opt them to have a visit. A few of these are early photographers that captured the glory of Iloilo in the past and made archives for us to remember.

Iloilo through the 20th Century Lenses

We stumbled upon the webinar talk of Mr. Nereo Luhan, a researcher and writer about the history of Iloilo. He talked about “Photographing Iloilo in the 20th Century”, and said that early Europeans that visited the metro took pictures of the City and sent them to their respective homes outside the country. Many of these photographs for example are from W.T. Bennet, taken from the mid-19th century or before 1865, these photographs are of Ilonggo weavers, Calle principal de Iloilo (Calle Real), Rio de Iloilo (Iloilo River), Arsenal de Iloilo (Iloilo Arsenal ship) and Casa real de Iloilo (Old Provincial Capitol Building). Mr. Luhan subjected that the port of Iloilo is now called Muelle Loney named from the term ‘Muelle’ from Spanish which means wharf, and ‘Loney’ named from the British Vice-consul, Nicholas Loney - the man behind the used to be flourishing sugar industry, expanded sugar production and export sugar trade. Iloilo’s international port was developed by Loney, who also imported the most up-to-date machinery from Europe. As a result of his generosity and faith in Iloilo City’s economic development, the efficiency of sugar production increased.

Legacy of the Past

Iloilo used to be a bustling, prosperous city that was abode to grand churches, fine textiles, and vast swaths of sugarcane fields. At least for the hacienderos owning hectares of land and the friars in the churches, renowned families and rich citizens alike, life was prosperous and comfortable. People didn’t seem to want much back at the olden days at the thick of the Spanish occupancy in the country. However, Ben Jimena, the Iloilo tourism officer, says in an article at Rappler that the harrowing effects of war have stripped the province of its glory, leaving the edifices of power—churches, the homes of the wealthy and other establishments—in either shambles or decay. There were a lot of lapses in development after the war, “So much of our focus was on being content with our current situation. Maybe the Filipino culture isn’t so hungry for progress”, says Jimena.

Ambitions for the Future

Modern Iloilo, on the other hand, wants to change that and reclaim its former glory. Currently, Iloilo City is emerging as a bright spot for trade and commerce. The business sector is a major employer in the city. Numerous banks, financial institutions, retail giants, and IT companies have invested in the city to help it grow. The Philippine Chamber of Commerce and Industry (PCCI) awarded the city a Special Citation in 2020 for being the “Most Business-Friendly, Highly Urbanized City outside of Metro Manila”. There’s no doubt that the area is becoming a major economic center in our country.

Iloilo is a very popular destination for both locals and tourists. The city successfully blends the old and the new, with new buildings built next to old Spanish plazas. While progressing, it manages to retain its country flavor. Companies in the information technology (IT) and business process outsourcing (BPO) industries have set up all around the metro.

Today, Iloilo’s economy is being driven by a wider range of industries including agribusiness, tourism, BPOs, trading activities, and service driven firms, including banks, educational institutions, hospitals, and many others.

Gloria de coronación (Crowning glory)

“The future is yet to come.” Today, the signs for the future are already written in various ongoing projects that are in place. Freedom of expression, opportunities, homes, experiences and memories worth nurturing, Iloilo is truly a City of Love. The inhabitants often look back, reminisce and imagine the past, with its neoclassical architecture, vintage feel, wide and clean roads, thriving commerce, and dedication to tradition. However, time changes the flow, the path paved by the predecessors for the successors will continue to be preserved and excel. The current shifting of the wind will now favor this former Queen City of the South, as the old and youth are the heart that will never falter, always hungry for change. Allowing the past to repeat itself will sully the might of Ilonggos, from now on grandeur will be displayed to honor the past and paint the future.

REGAL. Iloilo Business Park retains the city’s glamour and magnificence.

The First Filipino Photographer

Felix Laureano is widely considered to be the first Filipino photographer. He was born in Bugasong, Antique, but practiced his trade in Iloilo where he started his studios in Calle Iznart but later moved to Barcelona, Spain where he published his book “Recuerdos de Filipinas” which said to be the first and oldest coffee table book about the Philippines. He featured photographs mostly from Panay where shots from the old Iloilo stand out. Photographs of Calle del Progreso (now Isidro de Rama Street), Calle de Iznart (Iznart Street), Puente entre Iloilo y Jaro (Junction Bridge of Jaro and Iloilo), and the Vista del Muelle y Ria de Iloilo (Iloilo Port).

“It is a delightful read because Laureano does not only let the photos speak for themselves, but he vividly describes the scenes, with some of the essays running to several pages of text, where he very frequently uses Ilonggo terms and translates them for his readers. Most of the terms are still in common use today”, Mr. Vic Salas wrote in his column in Rappler entitled Ilonggo Notes featuring the work of photography and linguistics of the late Felix Laureano. With his descriptions of people, places, rituals, traditions, and everyday events, it can be considered as a photo album as well as a work of linguistics, geography, and anthropology, he added.