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DIFFERENT
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RODCHENKO SPRING / SUMMER 08 SIV STOLDAL INTERVIEW OUR SIX BRANDS LIST DIGITALISM INTERVIEW THE LOCKER ROOM FOALS EXCLUSIVE
ALEXANDER
la u n c h is su e !
a weekly magazine for men and women
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SIX BRANDS OF SUMMER ALEXANDER RODCHENKO POLISH PRODUCTIONS THIS WEEK’S TOP TEN FOALS EXCLUSIVE MAKING A SCENE
domino weekly. DOMINO / ISSUE 01
six things ten stories iconic buildings
trend.
for your concern no such shortcoming siv stoldal a different perspective six brands
music.
foals digitalism ten tracks
culture.
contents zero one
cool cameras making a scene alexander rodchenko polish productions
health.
the locker room bigorexia
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DOMINO EFFECT So here it is. Domino, Issue One. Creativity, independence and high impact. Domino’s take on culture, topical news and everything in between. From the fearlessness of Siv Stoldal and the nonconformity of Passions to the individuality of Isomorph Records and the demise of Polaroid, this issue has been brought to you by the number’s six, nine and ten and a drive to create something unique. Domino is dedicated to providing an alternative voice with the kind of interviews and reports that make you think seriously about your own life. You want to know where to go and what to wear while doing it. But you don’t want to wait a month to find out. We want to offer you original and intelligent content, glossed over with a lacquered, sleek design. We want to document the topics that matter and to talk to people we admire. We want to inspire you, and we want to offer it on a weekly basis. Reporting on the weeks most important issues, Domino will open the door to the most interesting and alternative artists, designers, actors and musicians who are affecting their industry in some way. Detecting tomorrow’s great trends, featuring figures who will become icons, interviewing, photographing and documenting individuals with something to say, Domino will have a knock on effect both on the industry and its readers. Inspirational, innovative and individual. It is the Domino effect. Enjoy the issue.
ALICE WATT Editorial Director
domino people EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Alice Watt ART DIRECTOR Leo Goddard CONTRIBUTORS Sunil Makan, Amanda Wayne, Michelle Ballard, Ian Davies, Olivia Clayton, Joe Mitchelmore. SPECIAL THANKS Siv Stoldal, Digitalism, Foals, Topman, Hayward Gallery, Cloggs, Claska, Passions, Hanna Hanra, Yo Yo, Urban Outfitters, Heather Peebles,Clare McKenna, Dean Edmonds, Alex Hall, Paul Davies Kate Moross, Lykke Li, The Tate, American Apparel, Garry Corbett, Sam Lee, Matt at Cube PR. PRINTING Charisma Print Ltd. Birmingham. CONTACT DOMINO editorial.domino@hotmail.co.uk / design.domino@hotmail.co.uk Copyright 2008 © All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the editorial. The views expressed in this magazine are those of the contributors.
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your concern IT SINGS IN THE RAIN Scandinavian fashion label Swims create waterproofed outer-skins for your regular old cloggs. Whether it’s Chuck’s, Loafers or Pointed Prada’s, you can bid farewell to wet feet. Get yours £40 (020 6548 4524).
INDIE MOVIE BY
BRUCE MCDONALD:
THE TRACY
FRAGMENTS
THE KING OF SPIN Aimed at a new generation of music fans turned off by the sterility of digital downloads, music on vinyl is where we are this week. We’ve tested Vestax’s Guber turntable, £12,352.
THE COCKTAIL Start off the night with a bit of sophistication. While Vodka 14 might look like it’s destined for an Appollo space mission it is in fact, one of the hottest drinks on the market. Domino Suggest a Vodka 14 on-the rocks, £8.00, Mahiki., London.
A BRIEF CHALLENGE
MARC IS KING Marc Jacobs can do anything he wants now. One expression of his confident spirit is the injection of willfulness he gives to his collections. The menswear this season takes the form of a mixed-up, mumbledup, shook-up world but Jacobs has toned it down to one key discombobulation: asymmetry. Pieces like a sateen trench coat and a chambray blazer clearly didn’t need that extra twist. Nor did the shiny sneakers.
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A recent poll on men’s underwear revealed that M&S’ Real Cool cotton trunks justifiably outrank Calvin Kleins. Innovative CoolCotton controls moisture levels and regulates heat, leaving you dry, cool and fresh. Clever summer pants, £5. BROTHERS FROM BRAZIL The Chemical Brothers never really lost it producing consistently good music for a decade and a half-but they did lose their impetus for constant innovation a while back. For anyone who may have wandered away from the party, it’s time to head back inside: the superstar DJs have found their second wind.
NO NONSENSE
RAF SIMONS Raf Simons’ message for Spring 2008? Forget MySpace, and find your space in the material world. Reconnect with reality! Sure, fashion’s archidealist has always been engaged by the tribalism of the young, and rave culture is a constant for him (here, the Chemical Brothers were on the soundtrack), but this collection’s main inspiration was also the season’s least likely: the backpacker. Yep, that sandalwearing, backpack-bearing tribe of international travelers, whose curiosity, energy, and openmindedness were held up by Simons as antidotes to the inertia of what he calls the “wwwgeneration.” Avoid the obvious!
DOMINO MAGAZINE / WEEKLY
SPECS BY PAUL SMITH Glasses in this season’s collections are rounded, thick & geeky. The death of slim-line spectacles is imminent thanks to the genious specimins from Smiths’s latest collection.
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Foals Review
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FOA L S Whether it’s on the cover of NME or on the Skins Soundtrack, Foals have Received an incredible, if only Worryingly premature amount of hype.
With an album produced by the legendary Dave Sitek of TV on the Radio and some admirable intellect and genuine hatred for commercialism, we decided to see what all the fuss was about. Guitarist Jimmy Smith chatted to Alice Watt about touring, Ethiopian jazz and pissing off the record company. At the end of 2006, five University dropouts from Oxford found themselves in the middle of a weird, but altogether unpleasant situation. Foals, the band they had formed earlier that summer, had somehow become the frontrunners in the media’s annual ‘hype-theshit-out-of-an-edgy-British-undergroundindie-band’ steeplechase. Quickly signing to London’s label du jour,
frontrunners in the media’s annual “hype-the-shit-out-ofan-edgy-British-underground-indie-band” steeplechase. Transgressive, and releasing ‘Hummer’ as a debut single in the aftermath, house parties, legendary gigs and ‘Mathletics’, a fine experimental slice of party noise, followed. But there was a problem. After seeing the
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inside of the media machine, none of the group liked the way they were being pounced upon. To give themselves the time to define their sound, the quintet cancelled the tenancy on their flat and escaped to Brooklyn to make an album that would distance themselves from the media hype, and give them some credibility. It is with this album, ‘Antidotes’, proudly clutched in their hands that they now embark on months of gruelling touring, and at last, give the music press something to write about. Stand out tracks ‘Cassius’ and ‘Balloons’ are prime examples of their talent and have been well received. If the energy and excitement at their gigs is anything to go by, they’ll be around for a good few more albums yet. “After this album it could go anywhere. We’ll get rid of the guitars and play everything on pans. Do something that will really piss the record label off. They’d have to release it but only sell like five records.” Smith may only be joking but for such a young band, Foals are clearly hoping for longevity through their creativity. With influences ranging from German minimal techno and Ethiopian jazz, they are quite an eclectic bunch. “When we started we had quite a keen idea to transpose minimal techno, like German minimal techno into a band format. So we play stuff that’s unique, that’s electronic, with guitars and heavy onthms. We’re also influenced by all the stuff >
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listen to, we listen to a lot of African music like a series called Ethiopiques which is Ethiopian jazz which is wicked. Absolutely amazing”. Despite Smith’s mature attitude to music, there is something you can’t ignore. At the heart of the band, there is a series of contradictions. Their avant-garde style is contrasted by their appearance on Skins and their musical influences are severely contradicted by the fact that all they really want to do is make the perfect pop record. “Every band wants to do that secretly, don’t they?” Simth is confident of the bands direction, even if they do confusingly merge the boundaries between mainstream and alternative. But the band has obviously been affected by their success in America. Despite only being signed for a couple of years, Foals have recently played sell out gigs in New York, a notoriously difficult market for any British band. Talking to Smith, it is obvious the band are immensely proud of the experien zvce, if only a little surprised. “New York was great. We played in a place called the Bowery Ballroom which is considered the best venue in New York and it was pretty much sold out on a day when it was a blizzard, which you know, was great!” Their talent has also been recognized by the legendary producer, Dave Sitek. Having crafted albums like ‘Fever To Tell’ by Yeah Yeah Yeahs, and ‘They Were Wrong, So We Drowned’ by Liars, Sitek is an impressive producer to work on any album, never mind your debut. “I think we only realised what had happened on the plane back to the UK. It was pretty intense; we had to do all the recording in five weeks for a whole album. And the guys an absolute legend! He kind of bullied us into doing stuff, I mean we really needed a kick up the arse and he took us in directions that we didn’t may be want to go in.” But all the hard work has paid off, and has undoubtedly helped them in becoming a more respectable band. “We were getting pigeon holed, especially with this Nu Rave thing that was happening like a year ago. It’s kind of washing out now but at the time, we were getting pushed into more dancey stuff. A lot of people thought we were just going to make a dance album so to go over there and have Dave Sitek talk about the afro beat that was going on in our music, just pushed and pushed the record into the right direction.” And the end result is an album that is in great part, impressive. Full of knotted rhythms, interlocking textures and this year’s omnipresent African beat, ‘Antidotes’ defines itself in opposition to the mindless fun of commodified indie rock, despite the ever present contradictions in their taste and style. Foals are a band that displays genuine passion for alternative music and working for their success. And they seem to be enjoying themselves too. “If I wasn’t so crushingly tired, I’d say it was a dream!” AW
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We’re listening to the sounds of Swedish born, 22 year old Lykke Li this week. Her next single ‘I’m Good, I’m Gone’ from her debut album ‘Youth Novels’ is out on June 2nd.
LYKKE LI DUCHAMP, MAN RAY, PICABIA The Tate’s latest exhibition brings together three of the most controvertial artists of the 20th Century; uncovering a shared approach to questioning the nature of art. On until 26th May.
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BALENCIAGA SANDALS Here to prove that the nylon leotard is not a good Gladiator look, Balenciaga offer us a series of more traditionally inspired sandals this summer.
S G N I TH
up down
SPEED RACER DEBUT FLOP
The Wachowski brother’s latest flick ‘Speed Racer’ fell $15m short of its esitmated $35m target in the States this weekend. We’re thinking it’s worth missing.
It’s time to leave the surfer wannabe attitude for the kids. Trad in kneelength board shorts for something with a bit more class. Check out buttoned trunks by Marc Jacobs & Adam NYC.
BERMUDA SHORTS
WINTER ATIRE The sun has risen and weather reports read well for a redhot summer. The time has come to hang up the winter coat and bring out an altogether, more colourful wardrobe.
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No Such Shortcoming
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shortcoming We explore Britain’s love-hate relationship with the croPped trouser.
The slightly tricky subject of what to wear when the sun decides to shine is one shared by many a Brit. We explore Britain’s love-hate relationship with the cropped trouser. While wearing white socks or having pants that are too short are obvious fashion no-nos, here are other little aspects every man should pay attention to when dressing up for the summer. It’s pretty clear that cut-off jeans are simply out of style and unattractive. Let’s face it, long fringes hanging on a man’s hairy legs has not been one of fashion’s finest oppo and no matter what it’s combined with, wearing jean shorts is a summer fashion no-no. The phenomenon doesn’t have to be explained further so all of you out there who wear the cut-offs, just know what to do -- get rid of them. You probably already made fun of your girlfriend or sister when she started wearing Capri pants last summer. I used to think they looked like baseball pants, that is, until I saw someone like Gisele Bundchen or Elsa Benitez slip on a pair. The point is that no matter how
ridiculous you think Capri pants look, women despise cut-off jean shorts even more. This woman goes on to explain her hatred for those cut-off jean shorts: “I have some guy friends who despise female Capris because they think they look ridiculous. Take that hatred and multiply it by about 100,000 and you’ll understand my disdain for jean shorts.” Remember guys, AskMen.com’s target market is highly male and our email will usually represent the voices of hundreds of other readers. So when you get an email from a female reader with such descriptive fashion advice, you know that she’s speaking for many others and it’s worth listening to. I always stress that fashion is a question of choice and personal taste, but men ask us for advice on what to wear and what not to wear, and that’s what we are providing. By the way, if you are outgoing and willing to try something different, try Capri styled pants for men; they are the “in” thing for the summer.
SHORTS: Wearing shorts fashionably is a trend we Brits need to grasp hold of. We take a look at the seasons top styles.
LANVIN
LANVIN Black on black is cool for the Autumn season and Lanvin prove that its good for the summer too.
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN
COMMES DES GARCON Blazers were popular throughout the summer’s collections. Layer colour and patterns makes for an impressive outlook on summer.
YVES CENT LAURENT If you prefer your shorts a bit longer, take inpiration from YSL’s oversized ethic and wear large jumpers & loafer-style shoes.
ALEXANDER MC QUEEN McQueens summer collection takes inspiration from a pastel pallete with faded patterns and tidy knits. A casual approach to smart clothes will work best for this look.
RAF SIMONS
YVES CENT
LAURENT
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GUCCI
GUCCI This is one of our favourite collections this summer. A rock meets nautical theme runs throughout. Stripes, primary colour and moccasins are essential pieces.
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S TO RIES from the newsroom
1
Conservative Landslide
The Conservative’s landslide victory at the local elections saw the worst results for Labour for at least 40 years. Labour’s fall to third place signalled a disastrous election for the party. In total, Labour lost 331 councillors and key councils like Reading. Tory gains included Bury and North Tyneside. With 44% of the votes cast in England and Wales, the Tories made a severe impact on Gordon Brown’s future as PM. With the Lib Dem’s gaining 25% of the vote, Labour received just 24%. David Cameron marked the results as a big moment for the Conservatives while Brown admitted it had been a ‘bad night’ for Labour.
2
burma disaster Last September, the Burmese people were on the streets, fighting for their political rights. Now they are on their knees, fighting for their lives. As the death toll in Burma from Cyclone Nargis rises to nearly 30,000, hunger, disease and thirst are now threatening the lives of the survivors. Aid agencies are struggling to reach the worst hit regions where 95% of homes have been destroyed and up to 70% of their population are dead or missing. The Burmese junta have been strongly criticised for their excessively slow response to the cyclone, and for obstructing aid. The death toll is expected to rise to almost double as survivors of Asia’s worst cyclone in over ten years are left without help.
3
london elections
Boris Johnson was sensationally elected to one of the most powerful positions in Britain this week when he ousted Ken Livingstone as Mayor of London. Ending Livingstone’s eight-year reign at City Hall after a record turnout of 45%, Johnson was once dismissed as a joke but proved the Conservatives are again making their mark on the city, to the horror of Labour. Promising to ‘work flat out’ to gain trust the Conservative candidate’s first mission is to tackle young criminals. His new policies include introducing airportstyle scanners in railway stations, plant 10,000 tress and ditch Livingstone’s controversial plans for a £25 CO2 charge on gas guzzlers.
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cannabis upgraded
Cannabis is to be upgraded from Class C to Class B, in the on going saga of confusing laws concerning the drug. The Home Secretary Jacqui Smith this week confirmed the reversal of the disastrous downgrading of cannabis from Class C, which took place during Tony Blair in 2004. Gordon Brown has made a personal promise to toughen the law and it will now be returned to the higher classification of Class B despite alternative advice given by the government’s own experts. It is thought the decision has been affected by concerns of more potent cannabis contributing to increased mental health but will ignite more criticism that the laws of not clear enough to people.
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OIL PRiCE RISE
Oil prices have continued to break records this week by passing the $122-a-barrell mark, bringing renewed fears of rising costs for consumers and damage for the wider economy. Grim forecasts have been predicted by experts, who have warned that any recovery in the British economy in the next two years could be ruined by the price of oil. Blamed on a struggle to meet demand, oil prices have now risen by 400% since 2001. The news comes as increasing warnings over the British economy surface. It has also been revealed this week that UK households have the least money they have had than for 17 years, while the Bank of England have held interest rates at 5% to help the credit crunch.
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FREE LEGAL DOWNLOADS
5
FREE SATELLITE LAUNCHED
Two years later than billed, ITV and BBC have this week launched a digital satellite service to compliment Freeview. FreeSat is hoped to expand the High Definition revolution in the UK and will enable viewers to receive better picture quality without paying a subscription. The satellite TV service will offer up to 200 channels before the year’s end to customers willing to pay a one-off fee with no contract. Costing anything from £49 to £120 for the box and an installation fee of £80, ITV and BBC say it will be available to 98% of the population and thus appealing to 25% of homes which cannot receive Freeview.
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PUTIN ELECTED AS PM Russia’s former president Vladimir Putin is to remain at the centre of Russian power after being elected as the country’s new Prime Minister. Having handed over power to the newly elected Dmitri Medvedev- his chosen successor- the State Duma this week overwhelmingly voted in favour of Putin. With of a vote of 392-56 in his favour, it is the largest majority win for any candidate in the Duma’s 16-year history. However, far from stepping into the limelight, Mr Medvedev’s role is diminishing by the day as it is widely thought the powers of the PM will expand under Putin, and he may in effect govern Russia jointly with the President.
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TORCH REACHES EVEREST
Despite the challenges and protests, China’s ambitious plans to bear an Olympic flame to the top of the world’s highest mountain have paid off, as the torch reached the summit of Everest. Live television footage showed the 19 member team holding the torch at the at its 29,035 foot peak around midmorning. In preparation for the climb, China banned climbers from Everest to keep Tibet protestors from the torch and was seen as a huge success by China, whose controversial flame relay around the world has seen increasing controversy throughout its journey. The feat took place three months to the day before the opening ceremony in Beijing, and will now move onto China.
DOMINO MAGAZINE / WEEKLY
Universal Music, the world’s biggest record company, has this week promised free legal downloads of 25 million tracks. Universal has signed a rights deal with Qtrax, the music store that promises free legal file-sharing service. The deal has been overshadowed by claims that it did not have the industry’s support but is believed that all other major labels will eventually follow suit. The New York based Qtrax launched in January but was forced to close down after record companies said that they had not signed up. Since then, companies are keener to pursue an alternative to the dominant iTunes store and this week, Universal signalled the start of major support for free legal downloading.
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MOB WATER FIGHT
Facebook is again being blamed for turning a bit of mischievous revelry into a riotous - and expensive - civil scandal. A mass water fight between hundreds of students in Leeds which was meant as some bank holiday fun on one of the hottest days of the year turned into a trashing of the cities newest park, the Millenium Square garden. The soaking saw hundreds of students armed with water pistols descend on the city centre and draining the fountains with seaside buckets, trashing the prize-winning park dedicated to Nelson Mandela. Clips can be found on YouTube. Now the student organisers face the likelihood of court appearances interrupting this summer’s final exams at the city’s two universities.
S IV interview
S T O L DA L
With an ambiguous first name and an innovative eye for men’s tailoring there’s no wonder people assume Siv Stoldal is a man.
Now, after ten years in the male dominated industry, Stoldal is seen as a pioneer for a new wave of female menswear designers. Domino was given a rare chance to get inside the mind of the ever inspiring and fascinating designer. Creating clothes for men may seem like an unusual career choice for a young woman determined to make her mark in the highly competitive world of fashion. But the simple fact is that Siv Stoldal has always been attracted to menswear. “As a teenager I used to go into my dad’s closet and steal his clothes to wear. So things just follow their natural choice I suppose.” Over the past decade Norwegian-born Stoldal has quietly carved out a reputation for her inventive and provocative collections for men. But she is no longer the only woman on the block. Hot on her heels is a band of fresh female designers who are transforming the discipline once considered the also-ran of fashion. Designers Ann-Sofie Back, Cassette Playa and Carola Euler are paving the way for a fresher take on menswear and are effectively changing attitudes within and outside of the industry. During her career, she has collaborated with Kickers and Fred Perry and shown with MAN at London Fashion Week. During this, she has noted positive changes in the attitudes of British menswear. “Yes, a lot has changed for the better. It’s so differnet now compared to when I first started. It’s no longer considered strange to be a girl doing menswear so it’s certainly loosened up.” But she is quick to criticise the perception and support given to menswear. “As an independent designer working in London, you are really on your own. The support on a question that surrounds womenswear designers in the form of winning grants, do not exist for menswear designers. This needs to be opened up to include menswear which would not only be wise, but crucial if the industry wants companies to grow a roof over creative talent.” >
“As a teenager I used to go into my dad’s closet and steal his clothes to wear.”
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Undeniably influential in the success of Stoldal’s career has been the support of independent boutiques, specifically B Store. The Savile Row boutique launched just as Stoldal started her career and picked up her first ever collection. Since then, Stoldal collaborates with the store on a regular basis. “B store was launched at the same time as I started and the buyer picked up my first collection. Since then the buyer has changed and is now called Matthew Murphy, and we still enjoy a great working relationship. B Store is very supportive and open and we often do special events with them and special pieces for their customers.” Stoldal’s work is considered so pioneering, it is hard to imagine the industry without her. ‘Three Wardrobes’, her latest A/W collection is developed from studying the wardrobes of three disparate Norwegian men- an engineer and a professional driver. The clothes discovered from these three wardrobes were photographed in detail by the designer and have since translated into her latest collection Key pieces such as the shirt which looks like two shirts on top of each other nods to the effect created when shirt-after-shirt is shoved haphazardly upon the same hanger while contrasting collars - one side button-down, and the other a classic Kent-style - along with differing colours and cuffs adds to the pleasing confusion. A leader in underground, alternative fashion, Stoldal’s work pushes boundaries in a way that menswear has never seen before and with each collection, she brings a refreshing twist to how menswear can be used. Stoldal, however, is much more modest. “I don’t really see myself on a quest of pushing the boundaries of fashion. But where I am right now, I feel more and more comfortable in communicating the collections on a bigger scale.” Last year’s ‘Cover Up’ collection highlighted just what she means by ‘bigger scale’. Inspired by the contrast between the way in which clothes are worn in Norway and her new home of London, Stoldal physically covered up the landscapes with garments. Passers by of Stoldal’s studio in Stepney Green, East London, were left flummoxed by 300 of her latest designs covering up the entire exterior of the building. Such striking and complex ideas are what make her collections stand out and why she has established herself as one of the leading independent menswear designers. She studies clothing-codes and in turn, tries to break codes and make new clothing. “I have always been interested in the thoughts and feelings that surrounds clothing, on a personal level with the emotional aspect of the relationship between
garment and wearer, as well as the sociological aspect of how one wears clothing as a part of a society. I have based all my collections around case studies around these themes.” She is also passionate about encouraging young designers to reflect her independency. “Don’t be scared to develop you own personal vision regardless of what is ‘in fashion’ at the moment. Don’t worry about trends too much, as a young fashion designer you are defining the future!” What makes Stoldal’s work stand out is her ability to surprise and follow her own quirky ideas, unaffected and uninfluenced by trends or commerciality. “I am planning a lost and found giant project at the moment, and I am doing a biker boot in sheepskin with Kickers at the moment that will come out in September, so that will be really great!!” Her previous collaboration with Kickers promoted street safety, with fluorescent inners and red flashing lights inserted into the heels. Such inspiration, however, risks being undermined by the UK’s lack of funding for the creative industries. “Having lived and worked in London, I have to say it is an excellent place to develop creatively as a designer. But I think designers in Antwerp have the benefit of a very supportive government that has invested a lot of money into developing the thriving fashion business they enjoy today.” “When I graduated there weren’t many jobs going for good, creative menswear. It appeared that most of the big brands thought of the womenswear line to be the one to be pushed with a strong look each season, and for the menswear to be more in the background and serve a more bread and butter role. In my opinion there is no good reason why the menswear-collection should be less considered and groundbreaking each season. More and more companies are addressing this, and are truly using the menswear lines to full creative potential, and for some brands it seems that the menswear is becoming more important than the womenswear, which is a nice change.” It appears that the future is changing. Pioneered by designers such as Stoldal, British menswear is experiencing a somewhat renaissance. She is evidently passionate about her work and that of other independent designers. The risks are high but, but Stoldal’s collections are evidence that it is worth it. “I admire every single designer that has their own company. It is a high risk business and truly hard work on so many levels, that I have to admire anybody who decides to take it on and enrich us with their vision.” See Siv Stoldal Online: www.sivstoldal.com
DOMINO MAGAZINE / TREND
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Digitalism
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a
D I G I TAL philosophy
Somewhere among the mass of corporate media and commercial drudgery, there are a small number of individuals creating their own unique scene, intent on producing alternative, independent media. We had a word with three of them about their work, their industry and their futures.
‘Idealism’ has been a huge success, were you at all surprised by that? We knew from the 12”s we had released so far that people knew us, but once we’d finished the album we didn’t expect anything. The album sold really well, we came out of the blue and we know that there’s lots of people who are not related to the club scene or electronic music, who got into our stuff. It’s a global phenomenon, and that’s really good! Surprising, yes. Is there a particular meaning or narrative behind your work, or is it purely creative? It’s both. We had all the music first and then discovered the story behind all that, so it might appear as a concept album, but that came in the second place. We found out lots about our music after we’d done it. How did you form Digitalism? We met eight years ago in Hamburg, Germany in a record store where Jence was working, I was a frequent customer. We started DJing in clubs separately and one night did a ping-pong DJ-set that worked really well. We continued doing that and started making own edits of tracks at home because we wanted to have something that others wouldn’t have. Then everything went off. What are your influences? Our music is mainly influenced by soundtracks and punk attitude in general. Also we like being nasty and not always too serious, a bit careless about receptions et al, that’s where the roughness comes from. This, plus our studio, which is located within a WWII bunker, so it’s eternal night in there, and it’s got a bit of a dungeon feel to it. It’s quite naked and raw but also very creative as you don’t get distracted by the ongoing reality outside.
one one
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interview ! What’s your favourite club/venue? So far it’s probably The Lux in Lisbon. It’s located right by the river, a detached building with three levels, including a really brilliant PA in the main room and a roof terrace to chill out and watch the big ships leaving Europe towards the Atlantic Ocean and the Americas. Where does your passion for electro come from? There was a radio show on a local channel in Hamburg 1993, called The Dance Charts, they used to play the important club tunes of the week. When we were old enough to go to clubs and start DJing ourselves, we quite easily got bored of the usual records that were on the market and we started looking more towards the leftfield. We then merged all our favourite influences into the Digitalism sound, without giving it a name or categorizing it. It’s just electronic indie music, it’s what we love and started in 2002. We like staying independent from tags and scenes basically. Which new artists do you admire at the moment? We’re quite into MGMT and Hercules And Love Affair. You’re signed to Kitsune, what does it mean to you? We really like being signed to Kitsuné as they bring in many ideas and lots of creativity, and they open up boundaries by combining different kinds of art to another big thing. We guess many people might have a huge respect for them because they originate from the “old” Parisian scene where Daft Punk emerged from. What do you try to get out of your music? Excitement and stimulation. What annoys you about the music industry today? Nowadays it counts more to play gigs and generate followings as a band than selling lots of records. You might argue that the music industry is like an old dinosaur trying to adjust to the fast changes that surround everything, but at the same time you can be very lucky that now it’s all up to yourself and music is coming back to the musicians themselves. AW
a different
perspective photography Michelle Ballard
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Dumb Blonde clare mckenna
White Shirt £95 by YSL; Black Bow Tie £5 By Yo Yo; Brown Skinny Black Trousers £35 by Topman. Vintage Leather Tie £3 by Vintage Shop; Black hat by Urban Outfitters; £25.
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HOUSEWIFE HEATHER PEEBLES
White Shirt £95 by YSL; Black Bow Tie £5 By Yo Yo; Brown Skinny Pinstripe Trousers £35 by Topman. Vintage Leather Suitcase £90by Louis Vuitton; Watch £695 by Dolce & Gabbana; Patent Jacket by Topshop Boutique £75.
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Fashion Assistant Sunil Makan Art Directors Leo Goddard, Alice Watt Models Clare McKenna, Heather Peebles Retouching Leo Goddard
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Cool Cameras
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photography Joe Mitchelmore
There is no denying it, the continuous similarity of digital photography is numbing. perfectly exposed and flawlessly focussed images are adorninG PHOTO frames and albums everywhere. In February this year, the legendary Polaroid broke the news that it would be discontinuing production of all instant film. Developed in 1947, the Polaroid saw many re-inventions but simply couldn’t compete against the mass demand for digital’s boring idealism. Claiming there is enough film in stock to last until 2009, Polaroid hopes to sell licensing rights to another firm to continue supplying enthusiasts but its future is increasingly uncertain. Without the instant film, a much loved art form will die, and along with it, so much history and fond memories. So with this threat, Domino thought it was time to celebrate kitsch alternative cameras, and help save them from extinction. Putting art into the hands of all and creating extraordinary expression from ordinary circumstances, holgas, fisheyes and action samplers offer a uniquely experimental photographic style. They will reawaken your vision and give you that hit that no digital could ever dream of achieving. Holga - You don’t need to be an expert to decide which of the two light settings, four focusing modes and two shutter speeds to choose from. It’s the simplicity that gives the Holga ‘toy’ status, but to have fun with photography you will need a toy - so why not play with the Holga? Inexpensive, unpredictable and exciting are the perfect qualities for any camera, and the Holga has them in tonnes. Its simple and rudimentary looks and the fact it’s so cheap mean that you can perform any kind of modification or personalization to it without feeling the economical impact. All these add up to make an ideal camera to obsess about, and engage in unpredictable results. Fisheye – Imagine everything above, below, and around you streaming through your eyes and compacting into a little ball. The 25mm camera lens provides a sweeping 170-degree view,
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compacts it into a bubble shape and then stretches it. So you really never know what you’ll get at the end! Especially as the instructions advise that the viewfinder will not help at all. Just guess, point and shoot. Getting up close and personal with your subject can create distorted effects, with huge depth of field in complete focus. Requiring normal 35mm film means you can get it processed anywhere so you can be as creative as you want. The Action Sampler – Four sequential pictures. One print. The multi lens Lomo Action Sampler turns one click into four surprising shots. Again taking a standard 35mm film, the camera is simple to use with shoot from the hip action for great spontaneous shots. Similar to the popular Cybersampler, the Action Sampler produces its unique images by setting off 4 separate high-quality lenses in a clockwise motion, making 4 split images on one picture (quadrant style). As with all Lomos, experimentation and physical involvement are highly recommended. Run with it, wave it around, stick it in people’s faces, and most importantly - get close. It may be too late for the beloved Polaroid, but there are certainly many other alternative photographic formats. Every Lomo photographer has different opinions but all have one thing in common: their love and devotion to their camera and, in many cases, a full-blown clinical obsession. Super-glue them to the side of your head if you must. Experiment and be relentless. Just don’t forget to remove the lens cap. AW
cool cameras
DOMINO MAGAZINE / CULTURE
BRANDS FOR THE SUMMER
words Alice Watt When there’s division, why not celebrate it? So many struggle to find a unified message in a season, even when what’s really happening is divergence. This is why we have a compiled a guide of the six best brands and designers to be wearing this summer. Offering a different style and aesthetic, yet sharing the individuality and credibility we all so desire, the brands vary in price range and thus offer something for everyone. And for those scared of extremes,
this season brings a fruitful crop of brilliant ideas for everyday: the modernising of tech fabrics; the evolution of the t-shirt; and the reincarnation of the boat shoe. By far, shorts are taking over menswear this summer, with scarves the must have accessory and soft but smart tailoring clashing with colours and dynamic design. The emphasis is on a fresh, modern look that is unique and exciting, with classic pieces keeping it strongly refined. Mix it up.
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6
brands for
the summer 1. Uniqlo
Japan’s #1 clothing retailer, Uniqlo is stylish, high-quality and affordable. In bolder colours, with better quality and at cheaper prices, Uniqlo has arrived in the UK. T-shirts are by far its biggest draw, but sweaters and its now famous Japanese denims are essential for this year’s wardrobe. What’s more, The Uniqlo UT Project sees the store collaborate with 1,000 artists every year, providing a seemingly never ending supply of quality and unique T-shirts. If you haven’t got one in your wardrobe then there’s something wrong with you. 020 7290 7701
2. Sperry Top-Sider Summer can be a tricky time for men’s footwear but this year, the classic boat shoe is having something of a moment. And why not? Inherently practical but undeniably cool, the boat shoe can, and will, go with anything. From cable knit sweaters to chino trousers, skinny jeans and turn-ups, it’s all about the boat shoe. And of course, the original Sperry Top-Sider is by far the best brand to be seen in. Nautical and preppy, it ticks all the summer’s fashion boxes. www.sperrytopsider.com
1. UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE, WASHINGTON
4. American Apparel
3. bClothing With niche collections from an impressive stock of progressive talent, B Store is London’s finest independent menswear boutique. But with its own collection launched in 2007, b Clothing is giving the likes of Siv Stoldal and Carola Euler a run for their money. Offering a more affordable line, b Clothing offers tailored garments in simple and refined colours and immaculate in style. Expect to see turn up jeans, plaid shirts and jackets, all complimenting their admirable shoe line which includes blue brogues and leather sandals. www.bstorelondon.com
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The home of cotton basics, American Apparel can never fail for staple items. Hoodies with their trademark white cords and zips, and acid wash T-shirts are stand out pieces. From jumpers, t’s, boxers and jeans to gym bags, weekend bags and laptop bags, it has everything you could ever need, and in every colour possible. Bright neons mix with pastels while the small details on the simplest of garments is what makes American Apparel the cult brand it is. And if you need a little more persuasion just have a look at the advertising.
1. bCLOTHING SPRING/S COLLECTION 2008. DOMINO MAGAZINE / TREND
2. BAND OF OUTSIDERS FOR SPERRY TOPSIDER
5. Topman Lens Topman’s Lens is fast becoming one of the most respected collaborative projects on the high street. With an initiative to bring cuttingedge design to the boy on the street and B Store’s owner, Matthew Murphy, at its helm, Lens brings designer at Topshop prices. This year sees the traditional tailoring and craftsmanship of Mjolk and the cult following of Material Boy to its new team of designers. Offering everything from shorts to waistcoats, this is a Topshop range like no ther. www.topman.com 0207 636 7700
6. Peter Jensen One of Britain’s rapidly rising stars of both men’s and women’s wear, Central Saint Martins graduate Peter Jensen has 5 . TOPMAM LENS successful collaborations with COLLECTION Topshop and Fred Perry held firmly under his refined kitsch belt. His distinctive menswear collections are cleverly conceived, quirkily humorous and of the moment. The Americana spring/summer collection contrasts black jail house rock jackets with pastel coloured cardigans, shorts and socks. The soft silver trousers may not appeal to everyone, but Peter Jensen’s clothes are wearable, masculine and well cut. www.peterjensen.co.uk 020 7249 6894
DOMINO MAGAZINE / TREND
6. PETER JENSEN, S/S 08 COLLECTION
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THE QUIFF
The perfect accompaniment for summer’s hottest trends, the quiff is the effortless hair style of the moment. The ultimate short back and sides was seen all over the spring/summer catwalks, meaning that 50’s styling in the form of oversized jackets, drainpipes, baseball jackets and glossy quiffs will be everywhere this summer. Alexander McQueen’s latest collection offered the most precise exposition on the theme, displaying McQueen’s natural rebel spirit, his tailored drapes and glittery quiffs highlight a nationwide street trend. Afraid of looking all shook up? Then try the 1930s side parted quiff. Either way, make sure you combine it with boat shoes and jeans turned up for the best summer look.
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DAX WAX
Hair for autumn is seriously ‘done’. The menswear catwalks were full of shiny, side-parted barnets, sculpted by the classic product, Dax. Show air should never involve too much product- the more product you use, the longer it takes the hairdresser at the next show to deal with the unwanted goo. So Dax is the answer. The ingredients of beeswax and natural oils make it easy to wash out and can style anything from a short back and sides to a flamboyant quiff. Affordable, natural and gives ultra hold, Dax is the classic product, and perfect for this summer’s rockabilly trends.
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TOM FORD
Designer Tom Ford’s debut fragrance is both traditional and unique. Black Orchid, a dramatic mix of black truffle, ylang ylang and blackcurrant, with a solid dose of sandalwood, incense and vanilla- a classic fragrance formula. That being said, the scent is not dull. The instantly recognisable fragrance is heavy and powerful but dramatic is never a bad thing. The unisex fragrance is the first to be given the vamp red-carpet charge Tom Ford is so renowned for. The man behind the legendary turnaround of Gucci sought out a recently introduced black orchid especially for the perfume to ensure it was as iconic as Ford. Luxury being the byword for anything from the Tom Ford collection, the Black Orchid never fails to deliver. AW
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domino culture
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Making A Scene
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m ak in g a
scene Somewhere among the mass of corporate media and commercial drudgery, there are a small number of individuals creating their own unique scene, intent on producing alternative, independent media. We had a word with three of them about their work, their industry and their futures.
The P.i.X is one of the country’s most respected zines. Celebrated for its wide ranging music coverage, its co-founder Hanna Hanra is also a writer for the achingly cool i-D, flat mate and best mate of the avant-garde designer Gareth Pugh and founding member of London art collective !WOWOW! “I have no idea what has lead me on this journey-a willingness to try anything I suppose. I started off with a degree in graphics and took it from there.” The P.i.X draws on Hanra’s design background, with each edition folding out to create a unique poster. Co-founded with Princess Julia, Hanra’s passion for music and zines was all it took to get it off the ground. “It began because I have always wanted to run a music magazine and it seemed like the obvious thing to do. I admire anyone that can put together a zine!” Hanra also DJ’s at Durrr and Dice Club, both renowned for their music as much as their individualistic and flamboyant clientele. She takes inspiration from the people around her, who happen to be among London’s most innovative and underground multi-disciplinary group of artists, designers, musicians, writers and performers. “I have always surrounded myself with people that inspire me and they are all an inspiration to me. I have lived with Gareth for five years and of course my lifestyle is affected by him – but only in the same way that anyone’s lifestyle is affected by their friends.” While Hanra is writing about the next new band and playing some of the best music in town, Liria Pristine has fashion, knitwear and jewellery covered. Since graduating from Central Saint Martins a year ago, Pristine has established the accessories range PristineSmut with fellow
“There are a lot of talented designers in London. The city allows for people to be themselves and try to push boundaries.”
DOMINO MAGAZINE / CULTURE
Illustration by Kate Moross: ‘If You Could’ (2008)
student Rosie Kent. While PristineSmut displays vulgarity in its most modest form, Pristine’s own knitwear leans more towards couture. “I make timeless and classic pieces. Each piece has a lot of time invested, which I feel makes each piece special.” Pristine still has much to learn about her industry, but shows a mature and knowledgeable awareness of its potential. Working independently offers original possibilities and unique work. “Everyone has to find their own way, and I am in the process of finding mine. Finding your market is a very important first step, when you have done that you know who to target. Everyone is very different, there are some technical people, creative people, people with little or loads of work experience, so there are many different avenues to take, and it’s all up to you individually to figure out where you want to be, and take steps towards that.” Pristine believes that her courage to go for it has been to key to her success, but admits that despite available support, finding it and then fighting for it have become the biggest challenges within independent industries. “I think there is support out there for creative people, it’s just about finding it or fighting for it as there are so many creative people in London. There are free business classes and ‘free money’ out there, competitions etc, and lots of possibility to network, and that is priceless.” “I think there are lot of talented designers in London, we may not see them all, in terms of the ones chosen to get press. But with such great art colleges in London, there is a lot of talent here. I think here in London the designers are definitely very experimental because this city allows for people to be themselves and try to push boundaries.” Another of London’s young entrepreneurial creatives is Kate Moross. Currently completing her final year of University, Moross already has a Cadbury’s billboard campaign and limited edition Topshop collection to her name. And now, with critical acclaim she has set up Isomorph Records, creating limited edition vinyl artwork. >
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Making A Scene
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Top right; Hanna Hanra’s P.i.X Magazine, Above; Kate Moross, Below; Fashion by Liria Pristine.
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“Taking current music and repackaging it as limited edition art vinyl, Isomorph focuses on the aesthetic of each record and working with bands to create the perfect collaboration. For collectors, art and music lovers alike.” Admirably supporting alternative music formats, Moross has created some of the best contemporary vinyl’s around. From Cutting Pink with Knives to Heartsrevolution, she has built up an enviable client list, along with some highly collectable, limited edition vinyls. “The record label part of Isomorph was constructed to create vinyl-only releases for existing bands, as a chance for a collaboration between musicians and designers. Secondly I love vinyl and I don’t think enough labels big or small, are investing enough money in it. Vinyl might not be the most economical way to release music, but when you’re a label whose sole purpose is to create nice objects, then your focus is completely different.” A champion of the creative industries, Moross is inspirational to anyone who wants to work independently. She admits that there are problems to overcome, but gradually the creative industries are improving. “I think creative people are very well supported. Its certainly a struggle to ‘make it’ but I think it is becoming more and more respected to work in the creative industry, I think there is a plethora of forums and networks where people can get advice, and a head start into the industry.” Combining a record label, graphic design and photography career alongside a degree must be hard work. But for Moross, such full time projects don’t feel like work, with her personal and work life intrinsically merging. “There is no balance, life is work and work is life. I do not even attempt to separate the two, sometimes I can’t remember whether my friends are clients or my clients are friends, it’s all blended together. My social life and my work like blend seamlessly, in fact, most of the time, I forget I am even working. Even more so since I started the label.” With her degree coming to an end, she has dreams and aspirations of expanding into other areas of the creative industries, but is keeping quite about her plans. “That would be telling....!” Set to move to New York this summer for what she describes as some “really cool projects”, Moross, along with Hanra and Pristine are establishing their creative mark in an industry that can offer endless opportunities. And as Moross states, “The most important part is the fact it’s driven by the people that create it, and there are no rules.” AW
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Alexander Rodchenko
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ALEXANDER
O K N E H C ROD The Russian avant-garde of the twentieth century is a unique phenomenon not only in Russia, but in world culture. One of its founding members, and most versatile artists, Alexander Rodchenko pioneered a new vocabulary in photography and photo montage.
The Hayward Gallery’s recent retrospective of Rodchenko’s photographic work highlighted his true artistic power while his work questioned the development of art over the last decade. His first ever exhibition in the UK came over fifty years after his downfall at the hands of the Russian authorities and was made possible thanks to a Russian billionaire. Five decades after his death, it is the Russian billionaire and owner of Chelsea FC, Roman Abramovich, who has brought Rodchenko’s work onto the global stage. Such a collaboration questions Russia’s progress from Stalin’s regime and raises doubt over whether or not art has returned to the idealism that Lenin and Rodchenko so championed. Or is art now, more than ever, an economic and political tool? Compositionally and artistically, Rodchenko’s work was a triumph, but politically it was misjudged. The artist thrived under Lenin but fell foul of Stalin’s brutal regime. Deprived of the right to work by the Government, Rodchenko’s career never recovered, but today his inspirational political and socially motivated work is being admired once more. A sculpture and painter, Rodchenko’s most exciting and provocative work was his photography, photo montage and graphic design. Shockingly modern despite the fact it was created in the 1920s, his unexpected and unusual viewpoints are still inspiring today. Modern photographers such as Martin Parr DOMINO MAGAZINE / CULTURE
note Rodchenko as a major influence while his designs are best known for the art school chic they offered the cover of Franz Ferdinand’s debut album. Rodchenko’s idealism balanced the formal concerns of art with an interest in the social and political life of the Soviet Union and helped to change the way photography was viewed, as well as the role of the photographer. He pioneered a bold new vocabulary of unusual camera angles, severe perspectives and close-ups of surprising details, as well as leading the way in posters, magazine layouts and book covers. Laden with meaning, one of his most popular mediums was that of photomontage. Becoming popular in the 1920s, the medium invariably contained an element of chance as well as being innovative and ideologically powerful. Rodchenko’s mastery came from his new perspectives of space and the meaningful combination of images. They gradually became increasingly used for political posters and advertisements as well as on the covers of socio-political magazines. Rodchenko’s political stance never left his work. Even in his early career, he joined the LEF (Left Front of the Arts) which dedicated itself to defining and Communist direction of all art. Rodchenko and his wife Vervara Stepanova designed all the covers of the LEF magazine and it was here that Rodchenko’s first experimental photographs were produced. His studies of space and perspective, as well as varying camera angles, created some of his most iconic pictures. The Leica, a tool and a symbol, enabled Rodchenko to shoot from the top down to create compositions of a modernist severity. His unique Moscow street scenes highlighted his love of the medium but also how he fell in and out >
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Alexander Rodchenko
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Images: DACS 2008 © Rodchenko Archives ©
of favour with the Soviet Union. The apex of his success was a set of portraits of a Pioneer camp on the outskirts of Moscow. In these notable images, he reversed the camera angle to show images of people dramatically foreshortened from below. One of the images- Pioneer with a Trumpet- was to become a classic but when published, the series received damning criticism. Rodchenko’s experimentation embodied the spirit of the early Soviet era but still seems as modern and provocative today. However, his approach to photographing individuals in individual ways didn’t fit comfortably with the 1930s political stance that people needed to be directed rather then personalised. From 1933, a law requiring a permit to photograph openly in Moscow had the effect of restricting Rodchenko’s photographic work to official parades and sporting events, the circus, the theatre and commissions outside Moscow. His photos were edited by the authorities and he was forbidden to keep any of the images that were not approved. His career never recovered and was largely written out of history by the Kremlin. His first ever show in Moscow took place in 1957 - a year after his death. Now, thanks to one of Russia’s and the world’s wealthiest and most powerful men, Rodchenko can finally be appreciated. Improving Anglo-Russian relations after a bumpy few years, the Hayward’s exhibition questioned
Rodchenko’s work gives hope to artists everywhere, promoting freedom and idealism, creativity and innovation. whether or not lessons could be learned from Rodchenko’s work. The answer is, probably not. But Rodchenko’s work gives hope to artists everywhere, promoting freedom and idealism, creativity and innovation. His passionate and turbulent career produced work that is increasingly inspirational today, on more levels than just art. In an ever increasing political and economic environment, his work encourages freedom and individualism despite social restrictions being just as prevalent today as they were in the 1920s. Art for social change, Alexander Rodchenko was a socialist with a true vision. AW
Previous page: Photograph titled ‘Stairs’ (1930). This Page: Photomontage titled ‘Lili Brik. Portrait for the poster “Knigi”’ (1924).
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Polish Productions
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productions
polish immigration, and its effect on jobs and the economy, is rarley out of the headlines. its culture, however has attracted far less attention. but, as alice watt discovers, there’s a growing passion for polish cinema amongst british audiences. words Alice Watt
Since Poland joined the EU in 2004, thousands of Poles have moved to the UK. Although numbers returning home appear to be increasing, Polish economy and its culture have, and still are, effecting upon Britain. In the UK and Ireland the number of cinemas screening Polish films has now exceeded 80 and includes all major cities, as well as smaller cities such as Wrexham, Luton and Nottingham where the Polish community is large. And now, with a two month film festival successfully completed in central London and many more projects and events planned for the rest of the year, it seems Polish cinema can no longer be ignored. UK distribution companies are fiercely competing for Polish films, while cinemas are increasingly calling for films to meet audience demand. Marlena Lukasiak, a film programmer for the Polish Cultural Institute, an organisation responsible for bringing Polish culture to Britain, is dedicated to promoting Polish cinema. She has recently helped in the formation of the Polish Connection, an organisation which aims to ensure that as many people as possible watch Polish film. “We came up with the idea as we knew we wouldn’t be able to provide films for all the cinemas that are calling for our work. Obviously it’s very expensive to bring film print to England for a couple of screenings so I thought it would be a really good idea to team up with a British distributor and encourage professional British distributors to get involved with Polish cinema.” Dogwoof Pictures was the first to respond to Lukasiak’s request and have since established a successful working partnership. Anna Godas, head of sales and acquisitions at Dogwoof, recently established the Polish Connection in partnership with Lukasiak and the Polish Cultural Institute. Together they hope to promote Polish film to as wide an audience as possible, and they are certainly having an effect. This year, the dedicated team have organised Kinoteka, the UK’s sixth Polish Film Festival. Two months of screenings, talks and exhibitions took place in a broad spectrum of locations, including the South Bank, Tate >
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Modern and the Barbican. Only a prominent and successful medium could achieve this amount of success and domination. But why is Polish cinema becoming so successful in Britain? Lukasiak argues the increase in Britain’s Polish population is undoubtably impacting upon the industry, but other factors are contributing heavily. Undoubtedly impacting upon the industry, Marlena argues, is the increase in Britain’s Polish population, but other factors are contributing heavily. “The majority of Polish people who immigrated here are students and are rather well educated people who still want to feel cultivated so they want to stay in touch with their culture.” This is having a knock-on effect on British audiences too. With all Polish films and events screened with English subtitles, the medium is becoming more accessible for a wider audience. “We also have a lot of foreigners and British people interested in our projects because they are meeting Poles, they have Polish friends and many Polish people bring them over to our events.” Godas, however, believes that increased funding and support for the medium is changing the industry by leading to greater choice and improved variation in the medium. “The Polish Film Institute was founded about two years ago and ever since there has been more production and co-productions being funded by them and it has gradually increased, so there are more and more productions being made and therefore choice.” This is also increasing the depth and variety of Polish cinema. The actor and writer Marcin Kwasny, whose latest film ‘Rezerwat’ brings a new dimension to Polish cinema by highlighting the tough rules the culture must try to understand, acknowledges the rise of the UK’s Polish population but offers a new perspective. “Polish
film offers different points of view. We stopped complaining in our movies and started to smile to the world.” Kwasny adds that increased support in the form of the Polish Cultural Institute and the Polish Connection, as well as English distributors like Dogwoof Pictures are improving the industry and offering their cinema to a whole new audience. “Thanks to them, Polish cinema can be known in the UK. It’s like a window open for the world.”
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Polish video artists are also gaining an increasing international presence, which again questions the interest in Polish culture. Godas explains “The Polish culture is getting richer and there is much more investment. I think that if any economy grows, then other things grow with it like culture”. Godas admits that with the increasing popularity of Polish cinema, distribution and promotion are too becoming easier. “The country has welcomed this industry more than they would any other foreign language film.” And with most industries, paying attention to sales will inevitably affect business. “We just look to see whether a film has potential in the UK so we look at popular films in Poland, like mainstream films and see how much money it’s making in Poland. And if it’s making money, we’ll bring it here.” Lukasiak adds; “I think we now know more or less what films are liked in Britain and we know now which films we should screen in which cinema. And I think also, cinemas recognised that there is a huge potential in the Polish audience. I can swear that this year, all the cinemas I approached to have screenings, have all said yes.” The mainstream films are popular, but gradually art house cinema is making a name for itself, and more demanding and provocative story lines are emerging. Not since the Polish revolutionary films of the 1950s and 60s has Polish cinema enjoyed so much freedom. After many years under repressive regimes, the collapse of communism and the birth of capitalism, Polish cinema has recovered, as Lukasiak explains. “I think that this time is over now and we can see an emergence of really interesting films in Poland. There is a huge variety of films made in Poland, there is a film movement called ‘cinema of moral concern’ which I think could be well understood in Great Britain because they are using similar aesthetics and approaches to British cinema like Ken Loach or other British film directors.” It is once again tackling some serious and weighty themes and the country can boast some of Europe’s finest cinematic moralists, including Krzysztof Kieslowski, Andrzej Wajda and Krzysztof Zanussi. The future looks bright and opportunistic. It remains an alternative format, but offers a British audience different perspectives and approaches. As Godas confirms “Polish film is becoming more popular, but it will always be a niche medium.” Key films which are tackling stronger, more interesting approaches are also winning awards around the world. ‘Preserve’, ‘Hope’ and ‘Time to Time’ are prime examples, while this year’s Oscars saw Andrezj Wajda’s ‘Katyn’ nominated for best foreign language film and has since received huge support, as Lukasiak confirms. “There is such huge demand for this film that the BFI put it on sale a few days ago and I’ve already started to receive emails from people saying it’s completely sold out.” So what is for the future of Polish film? Well, Kwasny has two movie proposals and dreams to “of directly and staring in his own movie. I want to be the Mel Gibson of Polish cinematography.” Meanwhile, Dogwoof Pictures, the Polish Connection and the Polish Cultural Institute look set to continue to distribute, promote and improve Polish cinema.
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Bigorexia
n o i s s e s b o y h t l a e the unh
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Illustration Amanda Wayne
For hundreds and thousands of men, muscle and physical development is a complete preoccupation. Bigorexia, more formally known as muscle dysmorphia or reverse anorexia, causes sufferers to over exercise and often misuse anabolic steroids.
It is a condition which makes sufferers see themselves as underweight and underdeveloped when in fact they are muscular and overly defined. Even if they have good muscle mass, they believe their muscles are inadequate. First identified by psychiatrists in America in 1999, experts are increasingly concerned about Bigorexia, especially when considering the stigma attached to male eating disorders. “Eating disorders have been so wrongly associated with women that for a man to admit to an eating disorder can be seen as affront to masculinity, hence more stigmatising,” explains John Morgan, the head of the North’s largest help service, the Yorkshire Centre for Eating Disorders. “It does not appear to be the case that it is more socially acceptable for men to seek help from eating disorders, but it does appear to be the case that the problem is rising, hence it can no longer be ignored”. Having worked in the field for over fifteen years, Morgan has written and published the first ever self help book for men with eating disorders, warning of the health problems disorders such as bigorexia can cause. “It is common to experience fatigue, sleep disturbance, dizziness, low blood pressure, tummy discomfort, skin changes and changed in sexual drive.” Bigorexia also leads to compulsive exercising and further eating problems, as Jenny Langley, the author of ‘Boys Get Anorexia Too’ explains. “Boys are more likely to be seeking a
more masculine body and then over exercise leads to weight loss and the emergence of anorexic thoughts and feelings.” As with all eating disorders, bigorexia can cause severe health problems, and can at worst be fatal. But with society’s stereotype of strong, muscular men still a common ideal, bigorexia has until recently remained removed from the publics consciousness. It is also a concern that the stigmatisation to such a condition discourages suffers to admit to their problems. As Langley explains, the pressure to fulfil macho male stereotypes and attitudes towards typical male physique are heavily contributing to a spiralling condition. “There is so little awareness generally of eating disorders in males. I think men and boys still find it incredibly hard to speak out about their problems. In addition there is still a lot of pressure on young boys to build an amazing physique thus encouraging them to over exercise.” Many people with Bigorexia resist getting treatment, stating that they are content with the way they are. Some admit they are afraid that if they give up the drugs and exercise, they will wither away to frailty. But no matter what, greater awareness is needed and in turn, a change in society’s perception towards the condition. Undoubtedly, however, the ultimate aim of people such as John Morgan and Jenny Langley is to encourage suffers to seek help. Information at BEAT: 0845 634 1414. AW
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the
custard factory
It’s like a different world completely to the repetitiveness of places like Broad Street.” With a series of poolside bars, the Custard (words Olivia Clayton) Factory offers unique venues for bands, DJs and artists. “No matter the event, it’s a full gone conclusion that you won’t have Nestled in the shadows of the futuristic curves design, the diversity of its surroundings.” experienced anything like it before, and it is a of the Bull Ring, lies an eclectic collection of Hidden behind tower blocks and proud representation of the creative talents of buildings. Intimate yet spacious, old yet modern, warehouses, the Custard Factory opens into a Birmingham” Charlotte adds. the Custard Factory represents functional bizarrely serene collection of colours, textures Currently surrounded by derelict buildings contemporary architecture at its most successful. and sounds. Whilst the water ripples calmly and wasteland it would be all too easy to miss Located in Digbeth, Birmingham, the in the central fountains, an impressive living the hidden qualities of the Custard Factory. Custard Factory epitomizes how old and statue known as The Green Man towers over the But once inside, the variety of angles, shapes new have combined to create an unrivalled entrance to the main reception. and form, the neon strip lighting on walk ways passion for individuality which brims from the From flea market to art exhibition, the quirky and contrasting blue and pink walls produce seams of the people that work and play within walls that build the Custard Factory offer inspirationally clever architecture. From the Birmingham’s centre for arts and media. something for everyone, whether it be eating vaulted ceilings of the Old Library, to the raw Acquiring its name aptly from the buildings history as Arthur Birds’ custard factory, the uNDERSTATEDLY CHIC , THE CUSTARD FACTORY REPRESENTS THE building provides a base for Birmingham’s FOREFRONT O F b IR MIN GH AM’ S MOST ELECTR IFYIN G EV ENTS . ever growing arts and media presence. Located on a five acre complex, the Custard Factory hosts a collection of businesses from galleries and in the vegetarian cafe, browsing in the brick and metal work exposed in the lovingly restaurants to recording studios and designers. second hand shops or a holistic treatment at restored industrial factory known as Space2. Aidan Keane, CEO, of prominent Birmingham the intimate beauty salons. The Custard Factory couldn’t be more diverse based design company Keane, says “Birmingham Understatedly chic, the Custard Factory if it tried, but try it will. With future projects is highly underrated, and has a lot more to represents the forefront of Birmingham’s most set to include a perfumed garden for the blind offer than the glossy façade of the Bull Ring, electrifying and mesmerising club and music and a 40,000sq foot international design the Custard Factory is not only iconic for its events. Charlotte Radavanovic, a student from centre, the Custard Factory sets to qualify use of contemporary design, it’s the way the Birmingham says “A night at the Med Bar itself as the biggest media centre in Europe. design is used in such a resourceful manner. or Factory Club, is a night of escapism from The Custard Factory represents in its diverse the hum drum of commercial bars and clubs. Information & events: www.custardfactory.co.uk
two nine
DOMINO MAGAZINE / WEEKLY
domino music
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suicide ghost rider This is probably the most rock
9 Tracks-The Passions
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and roll dong I’ve ever heard.
crass bata motel
Illustration Sunil Makan
T RA C K S
‘Penis Envy’ is my favourite Crass record. The combination of the rat tat tat drumming and Eve Libertine’s vocal delivery (and her lyrics) are like a fucking machine gun on this song.
BY PASSIONS
Ben Deitz is not just another pretty
face. As honest as he is talented, the Bronx-born, Brooklyn-based producer and DJ also known as Passions is direct as hell and will no doubt catch all the ears. At the song-writing centre of Passions, Deitz has already had an underground smash with “Emergency,” a riotous electro-punk single released by French label Kitsune.
nine inch wish nails
It’s nearly impossible to pick one NIN song but ‘Wish’ is so fucking perfect in its anger and hatred and frustration. Nobody seems to make music like this anymore and I guess that’s why I listen to this song so much.
my bloody valentine whenyousleep Fuck this is amazing. There was a summer when I was listening to this album non stop. Every day felt like anything could happen, every street in New York held a new person to meet and a new experience to have... the city was bright and anticipatory and exciting and ready to give me whatever I wanted.
the cars let’sgo
This song defines going out and partying and having a good time for me. I tend to forget how much of an influence the cars have had on me but they remain one of my favourite bands of all time.
djinaperfect shadowworld midnight I wouldn’t be making music if it wasn’t for shadow. A more perfect song is hard to come by.
DOMINO MAGAZINE / MUSIC
the cure at night
There’s something about ‘At Night’ that is so unsettling in the atmosphere it evokes. When you’re hiding in your bed from the faces outside your window, this song is there for you.
new order dreamsneverend The thing that always defined New Or-
der for me was the hope that was inherent in their music. This song immediately sets that tone. Its even a direct refutation of one of Ian Curtis’ lyrics. It feels like several young people consciously deciding to move forward past loss towards something better. “No looking back now, we’re pushing through”.
joy division twentyfourhours This is just pure desperation. I could have picked any Joy Division song, really. No band has ever come close to being able to evoke the feelings and moods that they did. Nothing like this will ever exist again.
three zero
DOMINO / ISSUE 02
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