All Ireland Coastal Rowing Championships 2016

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ALL - IRELAND

2016

CHAMPIONSHIPS


WELCOME As Mayor of Donegal Town and surrounding area it is a great honour and pleasure to welcome you to the 2016 All-Ireland Coastal Rowing Championship which is being hosted by Donegal Bay Rowing Club. I extend a big Cead Mile Failte (A hundred thousand welcomes) to all of the clubs and crew who are here for the first All-Ireland Coastal Rowing Championship to be held in Donegal. Coastal Rowing is a healthy and enjoyable sport for all, with competitors ranging from 11 years upwards. It takes a lot of training and dedication to build up the strength and techniques that are needed to produce a winning crew. It is indeed wonderful to see the support between clubs and crews in preparation for this event.

4 Star Manor House Hotel overlooking Donegal Bay & Rossnowlagh Beach

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Donegal Bay Rowing Club is situated in one of the most scenic, cultural and historic tourist hubs in County Donegal and Donegal Town is a gateway to The Wild Atlantic Way the longest coastal touring route in the world, stretching 2,500km from Donegal in the northwest to County Cork on the south coast.

I hope that those of you visiting here for the first time will discover, dine and delight in this beautiful area and enjoy the entertainment we have on offer. I would like to say a big thank to the people who give of their time to help out on a voluntary basis and to The Donegal Bay Rowing Club for their enthusiasm, commitment and hard work in organizing the 24th Annual All-Ireland Coastal Rowing Championships and to wish them every success. On behalf of the whole community I hope you all have a very enjoyable visit and wish all the clubs and crews the best of luck in the competitions.

Patricia Callaghan Mayor of Donegal Town

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FOREWORD Séamus Maguire

Firstly it is great to be back in Waterville again this year! I wish the Kerry Coastal Rowing Association and the Irish Coastal Rowing Federation every success with this year’s event. I also wish every single competitor who has worked hard to get to this point the very best of luck. Since Donegal Bay Rowing Club began competing in this event, we have quickly learned the high level of training and commitment necessary to compete at the Championships. As Chairperson of Donegal Bay Rowing Club it is a great honour for me to announce that Donegal Bay Rowing Club will be hosting the All Ireland Coastal Rowing Championships at our facility at The Lakeside Centre, Ballyshannon, Co Donegal in 2016. The Lakeside Centre is a fantastic facility which we believe is tailor made to host the Championships for what will be their first time being held in Co. Donegal. The purpose of this publication is to give you, as rowing people, an overview of the sport of rowing in Donegal, through really great contributors including; Donal Mac Polin, Anthony Begley, Stephen Nolan and Paddy Meehan. I hope you enjoy the articles about Donegal´s rich maritime heritage. Herein we have also provided some information to help you plan and make arrangements for 2016, information about: The Lakeside Centre and its facilities, the wide range of local accommodation options and visitor attractions. Donegal Bay Rowing Club are grateful for the assistance of Donegal County Council and Donegal Tourism Ltd in the production of this magazine especially to Barney McLaughlin and Joy Harron whose tireless work has been invaluable. I really hope that you can make your way to Donegal in 2016 to compete and celebrate with us in this historic event for our county and for the rowing community in Donegal. So if you think you can rise to the challenge... see you in 2016! We promise you will not be disappointed by the rowing or by the hospitality in beautiful Co. Donegal. Yours in Rowing Séamus Maguire Chairperson (Donegal Bay Rowing Club)

Victor Bridges

It is with great pleasure that I announce that the honour of hosting the 2016 All-Ireland Coastal Rowing Championships has been awarded to Donegal Bay Rowing Club where the event will take place at the Lakeside Watersports Centre in Ballyshannon, Co. Donegal. We have visited this venue on a number of occasions and met with the club and each time we have been blown away by the facilities available and the enthusiasm and attention to details of the local Organising Committee. On behalf of the Irish Coastal Rowing Federation, I would like to wish Donegal Bay Rowing Club and the Donegal Coastal Rowing Association all of best during their year of planning and I look forward to attending the 2016 All-Irelands in Ballyshannon. Best of Luck to Everyone, Victor Bridges, Chairman (Irish Coastal Rowing Federation)

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The Drontheim… Ireland’s Norway Yawl

Donal MacPolin

Michéal Curran

to local fishermen they already knew of the quality of the Norse clinker ‘double-ender.

Mar chathaoirleach an Cumann Rámhaíochta Cósta Dún na nGall, ba bhrea liom fáilte mhóir a chuir chuig an ICRF agus an pobail rámhaíochta cósta go Dún na nGall fá choinne an sraith uileÉireann i 2016.

In 1788 a ship arrived in Galway ‘from Dronton, the “Sarah of Galway” Master: Patrick Dwyer, for

the timber supplier Patrick O’Maley carrying 9,996 Norway deals, 1,656, half-deals, 24 small spars, and 72oars’

Cé go nach bhfuil an cumann i riocht ag an bomaite chun an uileÉireann a óstáil, tá sé sásta chun tacaíocht a tabhairt chuig an DBRC ina n-iarrachtaí chun an craobh a tabhairt go Dhún na nGall chun chéad uair. Tá an Cumann Dún na nGall i céim suthach fós leis dhá clubanna ball ag forbairt i céimeanna eagsúla. Is é an skiff tradisiúnta Dhún na nGall an príomh cinéal rámhaíocht ag tarlú i rith an séasúr regatta, tá club Curragh ann i na Rosa atá ag iomaíocht go náisiúnta agus tá ‘one design yawl’ ag trí cinn de na clubanna comhlachais. Tá súil againn é seo a mhéadú thar na blianta atá romhainn chun ligean níos mó daoine dul ag iomaíocht go náisiúnta. Is é mo thuiraim féin má tá an ICRF ag déanamh iarrachtaí chun rannpháirtíocht a mheadú agus an spóirt a fhorbairt go háirithe sna contaetha ar an chósta thiar. Tá sé tabhachtach go tabharann siad ócáid sárthaispeántas leis na ramhaíochtaí, eagraíthoirí, clubanna agus dathanna is fearr go ionadaí úr. Le seo i m-intinn tá súil agam gur leis an deis, eagraigh agus cuirfidh an DBRC agus pobail Dún na nGall fáilte móir chuig an uile-Éireann i 2016. Is mian liom adh mór a chuir chuig gach duine, ag ramhaíocht nó ag eagrú ag an imeacht an bhlian seo i Waterville, Co. Ciarraí. Is Mise Le Meas Michéal Curran Ag Tarriagnt Le Cheile

Bill Deasy

I am delighted to be associated with the announcement that the 2016 All-Ireland Coastal Rowing Championships will be taking place in the Lakeside Watersports Centre in Ballyshannon, Co Donegal. The Donegal Coastal Rowing Association who are our newest members and Donegal Bay Rowing Club have both very much impressed all of us on the Federation with their enthusiasm and skills at Coastal Rowing and also their ability to organise, plan and fundraise for whatever they put their minds to as evidenced by their rapid acquisition of new boats and equipment and I have no doubt that they will organise a magnificent event for all of us when we visit Ballyshannon next year. On behalf of everybody involved in Coastal Rowing throughout the island of Ireland, I would like to wish the organisers and in particular Donegal Bay Rowing Club, well during their endeavours over the coming 12 months to put on a Great All-Ireland. Yours in Coastal Rowing, Bill Deasy, President (Irish Coastal Rowing Federation.)

(a ‘deal’ was a spruce plank 12ft long by 11ins x 1½ins, hence the name in Ireland today for white spruce). In Norway the Viking boatbuilding tradition had survived for a thousand years and by the 18th century had reached the highpoint of sailing efficiency…

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very child knows the story of the Viking hordes which invaded and colonized large areas of Ireland in the 8th century in their great dragon-headed boats. Apart from creating Dublin and giving us the word ‘fjord’ the Vikings also introduced their unique boat building system called ‘clinker’, a system of light, overlapping planks as opposed to smoothsided, heavier, edge-to-edge planks called ‘carvel’. The Norse boats were lighter, faster, easier to build and in all ways superior to the old ‘wall-sided boats’, quickly replacing the carvel galleys wherries and hookers all down the east coast as far as Dublin. The west coast seems to have held little interest for them apart from their use of the Shannon to raid Clonmacnoise. The indigenous canvas–covered currach and carvel-built boats such as the Galway hooker survived there and can be seen to this day.

A unique underwater profile had evolved to enable doubleended sailing boats to be rowed and sailed with unrivalled efficiency, economy, and speed. In general shape and construction, Irish double-ended clinker boats, past and present, have their counterparts in Britain, the Faroes, the Shetlands, Iceland as well as Scandinavia and the Baltic; all places where Viking boat technology had penetrated for centuries. As Arne Erik Christensen, director of the Oslo Boat Museum remarked: “They look the same. Similar boatbuilding tools have been used for the last thousand years and the terminology is the same. A twentieth century boatbuilder can unconsciously reproduce boats similar to those built in the 9th.century!”

Viking ship technology continued to evolve throughout the middle ages and many images of them survive on grave stones in Scotland, on and fragments from the Viking settlement in Dublin, most notably on a stone in Dunluce castle in Co.

Antrim. Scots and Irish galleys raided each others’ coasts for centuries.

The Timber Ships By the 18th.century much of Ireland’s native timber was gone and so began the trade in timber shipped by sea from Scandinavia and the Baltic. When a small sailing and rowing inshore boat appeared on the decks of the timber sailing schooners from Norway in the 18th.century and was offered

He gives a number of reasons for this: “First, neither the natural environment nor the economic situation of the fishermen-farmers changed appreciably between the time of the Vikings and 1850. Once the combined rowing and sailing boat had been perfected, as happened in the Viking age, there was no need to alter it. Continuity was also maintained by a conservative boat-conscious population, amongst whom boat-builders enjoyed a high status and only passed their closely guarded secrets on to family members.”

What was this Norse boat that came to Ireland? About 1800 a small farmer/boat-builder from the Afjord region near Trondheim designed and built a small inshore fishing boat which would serve the needs of the fishermen

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along that rocky coast with its many fjords and inlets. His design was for a typical double–ended four man sailing and pulling boat (called a ‘faering’). It was so successful that at one time over a 1000 a year were being built. Builders brought them to sell in the village of Afjord. At the same time great timber-carrying sailing ships from all over Norway were carrying loads of spruce, spars, oars, and boats to English, Scottish and Irish ports. Seeing a good business opportunity the Afjord builders began sending some of their faerings along as deck cargo on these ships. Several could be stored inside each other on deck with their beams and fittings carried separately.

Sides were raised several boards to give a higher freeboard. Unable to access the kind of timber available in Norway the five very wide planks of the faering were replaced by nine or even ten narrower planks. The square sail of the faering was replaced with the more efficient sprit or lugsail. Lastly, in Donegal, the unique, concave garboard of the faering (called the ‘hals’ and carved from a solid thick plank) was

and wanted a straight stern which they felt ‘gave a better grip in the water’. The rounded double-ender remained the style of choice in Donegal. In Ireland the Norse boats proved superior to the indigenous small currach and cheaper than the heavier carvel - built cargo and fishing boats then in use. They found their own niche market among the small farmer/fishermen of the north. This light, yet sea-worthy, small fishing boat was enthusiastically adopted by the Irish fishing communities all along the coast. They can be seen pulled up on the beach at Warren Point in the late 19th century photo.

As it turned out the local builders did in fact succeed mightily in imitating them and Portrush became the centre of a boatbuilding tradition for the next hundred years. It would seem that the first copies of the Norway yawl were produced along the north east coast as no Norway yawls were recorded in Donegal till the 1880’s. Though many clinker boats existed here having been built by the Greencastle Scots/Irish family of McDonalds who settled there as boat-builders coming from the Isle of Skye in 1750. Their building method was clinker and many such boats can be seen as half models on the walls of their boatyard to this day. However, as engines were introduced to the yawls much earlier along the north east coast the old sailing and rowing yawls died out here in the 1940’s while surviving for much longer along the Donegal coast.

They were light enough to be pulled up and launched from any beach, and when handled by a competent crew they could be sailed out much further, and in more difficult conditions than any canvas currach.

replicated by the delicate ‘sandstroke’ (possibly an old word of Norwegian origin meaning the lowest strake or the one closest to the sand. It was also called a ‘sand-hals’ in places in Norway) which mimicked its unique underwater curving profile which made the faering such a superb fast sailing craft. Some builders on the Co. Down coast actually carved a very successful version of the hals, which was preferred to the sandstroke, several of which survived to the present day.

There are few early records of these first boats but they can be seen in some of the cargo invoices of the 18th century. However, with the Napoleonic war between 1806 and Versions of these small inshore fishing boats were now exported to the west of Scotland and the north of Ireland and sold off the decks of the timber traders sailing from Trondheim, Kristiansand and Bergen into the Irish ports of Belfast, Derry, Coleraine, Sligo, Galway and many smaller places along the coasts. There they would heave to and trade with the local fishermen or whoever wanted one of the ‘Trondheim boats’. One can imagine the local fishermen’s discussion about these boats very easily, and over the years, slipping into a local corruption or mispronunciation of ‘Trondheim’ to ‘Drontheim’ or more colloquially ‘Dronthon’ ‘Them dronthon boats’ was what I had heard as a child in Moville and accepted without question. It was only much later that I realized that the word referred to the Norwegian port. In other places the boat went by different names. For administrative purposes agencies referred to the type generally as a ‘Greencastle yawl’ as most were built by the McDonalds of Greencastle. On Rathlin it was called a ‘shallop’. Near Portrush it was also called a ‘Skerries yawl. In west Donegal it was called sometimes simply, a ‘skiff’ and on the Island of Islay in Scotland it was called ‘scoth eirreanach’, ( Irish skiff,) large numbers having been built during the heyday of boat building in Portrush and rowed or sailed over to Islay. The islanders there preferred the lugsail to the sprit

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The Irish Norway Yawl

1815 the Scandinavian timber trade ceased and so the Irish builders were forced to build their own version of the older boats. At Portrush in 1836 the Local Coast Guard Officer reported that “The fishing boats are getting old and are much patched. When the Norway trade existed Drontheim and Christensand boats were introduced; but they are nearly worn out… and the local builders have entirely failed in imitating them. They are alike at both ends, and very low in the centre: in length 20 feet: breadth 6 feet, depth 2 feet 4 inches. The cost of this class of boat, with two lugsails, is £10”.

The boat which evolved along the north coast had its own unique characteristics dictated by the needs of local fishermen, yet retaining many of the features of its Norwegian ancestor. To venture further out and take greater loads the boats were made longer though still staying narrow. Dimensions varied according to the needs of the fishermen. Along the north east 20ft was the most common size. The ‘standard’ size built in McDonalds was 26ft with a larger 28ft ‘westard’ dronthon on occasions. However, dimensions varied quite widely between these two sizes according to the needs of the fisherman… and the boat-builder usually gave him what he thought he wanted!

But the sandstroke remains Ireland’s unique Norwegian/Irish invention..so difficult to construct that few would attempt (or be able) to make one today. Constructed in three pieces it curves from almost flat midships to almost vertical at bow and stern.On Islay this was called, in Gallic, the ‘fliuch bhórd’ (the wet board!) and when ordering a boat from the great Portrush builder James Kelly in 1910 Jim McFarlane’s grandfather gave instructions to ‘cuir an cheud bord air oir’ (put the first board on edge), i.e set the sandstroke at a steep angle midships to give a deep keel so as to improve the boat’s sailing efficiency. A less steep sandstroke improves rowing over sailing.

The dronthon was built longer than the faering but still as narrow, with a fine sharp bow and stern. Lightness was highly prized where they had to hauled up and down a beach (the Beatties, another boat building family in Moville built an exceptionally light and elegant sailing yawl, much prized for racing) and all carried the unique sandstroke garboard strake.

In the Norse faerings of today, still built in the same traditional manner at the boat buildery of the Museum of Coastal Life in Rissa, close to modern Trondheim and Afjord, the handaxed curving hals remains the boat’s most important board. This amazing concave board causes the water to curve cylindrically and pull a cylinder of air along the lands of the

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board as the boat drives forward, keeping the head of the boat up and throwing the water below and behind the boat rather than over its low sides. The faering then cuts more efficiently and with greater speed and safety through the water.

In 1836 the “First report of the Commissioners of Inquiry into the State of Irish Fisheries” identified the double–ended, clinker-built Norway yawl or skiff as ‘the predominant type of open working on the north and east coasts of Ireland” None were identified in Donegal, only a few in Sligo. So successful, however, were the builders further east that during the 1880’s the design spread westwards and the successors to the Norway yawl spread into west Donegal. From 1891 to 1906 when the Congested Districts Board (a government sponsored relief organization) provided a grant scheme for boat -purchase, a total of 2476 open boats were built, many of them Greencastle yawls... an amazing number of boats by any standards. It was here that the Norway yawl reached the pinnacle of its design and it remained unchanged through many generations till its decline in the 1950’s.

The Mystery of Ballyshannon Shipping Links with Norway Anthony Begley

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he port of Trondheim in Norway and its close connections, over two hundred years ago, with the port of Ballyshannon on the north-west coast of Ireland have only recently been re-discovered. Handwritten poems, songs and stories in small booklets, written in the 1820s and 1830s, discovered in the Gunnerus Library in Trondheim, have revealed forgotten links between the two ports at the beginning of the 19th century. The booklets were initially discovered by Eva Hov, a music teacher in Trondheim, and bore the title “Legends, Stories, Poems by MAA Ballyshannon.” The name Thoning Owesen was written on one of the booklets. As a local history researcher in Ballyshannon, I corresponded with Eva Hov and together we patiently unravelled the long forgotten connections between the ports of Ballyshannon and Trondheim. Who was MAA? Why was MAA in Ballyshannon corresponding with Thoning Owesen in Norway? Why were local places such as the Mall Quay, Catsby and Kilbarron Castle in Ballyshannon turning up in correspondence in a Norwegian library? This quest had many twists and turns, before we could unravel the fascinating story behind the long forgotten family and trading connections between Ballyshannon and Trondheim.

The Norway yawls ranged all across the north from Donegal Bay to Carlinford for close on two hundred years…till time and the engine ended their days. Few mourned their passing as the life they represented was brutal and unforgiving. However, as an example of superb boat design, with its elegant form closely following its perfect functionality it ranks among the finest achievements of Irish vernacular marine craftsmanship. Donal MacPolin

The design of the boats which had replaced the Norse craft changed very little for almost 200 years and it was not till the coming of the marine engine that radical co-design changes took place and the rowing/sailing yawl quickly faded away. Fishemen are not romantics. When bigger, faster, safer, more efficient, more reliable (and more comfortable) craft arrived ‘the ould boats went to the wan side’. (Inishowen fisheman John ‘Jack’ McLaughlin)

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Trade and Family Connections between Trondheim and Ballyshannon Thoning Owesen (1804-1881) was identified as the son of a merchant in Trondheim, a seaport in Norway. His father Otto Friedrich Owesen (1768-1808) was exporting timber and often travelled by ship to Ireland. Indeed he seems to have been a frequent visitor to Ballyshannon port with cargoes of timber and in Ballyshannon he made contact with the Allingham family. In 1803 Otto Owesen married Jane Allingham and the following year their son Thoning was born in Dublin. In 1804 shortly after the birth of Thoning, the family returned to Trondheim to live. They purchased a house there and aptly named it “Ballyshannon”. In 1804 Edward Allingham, Jane’s brother, went to live for a time with his sister in Norway and to learn the shipping business, as the Allingham’s had shipping interests back in Ballyshannon. In 1805 William Allingham, another brother of Jane’s, arrived in Trondheim from Ballyshannon. He was the father of the well known Ballyshannon poet who was also called William. After less than two years in Norway, Jane Owesen (nee Allingham) sadly died in 1805. Her husband Otto was in bad health and the Allingham family offered to care for Thoning, aged three at the time. Thoning returned to Ballyshannon in the company of Madge, the Allingham’s housekeeper, who travelled from Ballyshannon to Trondheim to bring him back. He was also accompanied by his uncle, William Allingham, then aged 18, the father of the poet. Otto Owesen had no family in Trondheim and it was with a heavy heart that he bid farewell to his son. Otto continued at his work but his health deteriorated. He made requests that his son Thoning should soon return from Ireland but this didn’t happen because

of world events. This was the period of the Napoleonic Wars and a blockade which permitted few ships to cross the North Sea. This blockade ruined many trades in Trondheim and, no doubt, had an impact on the import of timber from the Baltic to Ballyshannon. Thoning was not to see his father again as Otto Owesen died in 1812. Coincidentally a Norwegian ship called “Hawkerman”, with Captain Throw in command, was wrecked at Ballyshannon on the 27th March 1812- evidence that despite the blockade trade between Ballyshannon and Norway continued, although at a reduced rate. Thoning Owesen spent his formative years in Ballyshannon with his grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins. In August 1814 Thoning was sent as a boarder to Foyle College in Derry. He lived as a boarder in the Lawrence Hill buildings. (These buildings form part of Magee College today). He was accompanied by another pupil James Allingham who was his uncle. It is interesting to note the strong connections between this part of Ireland and Norway as a number of Norwegian boys attended Foyle College in 1814. Thoning’s education was devoted to classical studies at which he showed excellent talent and he made good progress in Derry. He spent his holidays from school in Ballyshannon and by Christmas 1819 had completed his education. In 1820 Thoning travelled to Trondheim with his uncle Edward, on what must have been a sad trip to visit the graves of his mother and father. He also had inherited his father’s wealth and his visit influenced him to return to live in Norway. Our Ballyshannon search began with the hunt for Jane Allingham and who her immediate family were. In researching the Allingham genealogy, it emerged that Jane Allingham who had gone to Norway was one of the daughters of John Allingham and Jane Hamilton. Her sister Mary Anne was the MAA of the poems and the author of verses which have been recently discovered in Norway. The explanation as to why MAA was writing to Thoning Owesen in Norway, with the news about Ballyshannon, was now becoming much clearer. She was corresponding with her nephew who had grown up in Ballyshannon and who would have been familiar with people and places in the locality. What becomes especially interesting is that Mary Anne Allingham was writing poetry and that she was to be a major influence on her nephew William, who is today recognised as the bard of Ballyshannon. His poems such as “The Fairies” and “Adieu to Ballyshannon” are familiar to many Irish people.

The Impact of the Napoleonic War on Ballyshannon Trade Trondheim, in the 19th century, was the main port of import and export for a major part of Norway from Bergen to the very north. There were three major export trades, copper, dried and salted fish and timber from a vast area around the Trondheim fjord, and also timber transported by river from the Swedish border. Some timber was exported to England but Ireland was the major recipient. The experience

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of sand silting in the harbour was to hamper the seaport at Trondheim; just as the sand bar at Ballyshannon posed a serious hazard for shipping at the mouth of the Erne. In Norway the solution was to move the harbour out to the shore of the fjord in the 19th century. Nevertheless the ship owners› incomes were unpredictable and depended on fish catches and the amount of timber which could be sold to the Irish. Their expenses were great as they were very far north and had to travel long distances to markets. The costs of pilotage, duties and loading of ballast in Ireland and England also proved prohibitive. Most of the Trondheim timber merchants gave up shipping with vessels of their own nationality (some of their ships were sold to Dublin). Instead English ships were totally dominating. In 1805, which was a very good year for shipping, Otto Owesen, husband of Jane Allingham, was reported to be the second greatest timber merchant in Trondheim. The Napoleonic war made trade between Trondheim and Ireland (or other countries) impossible, so that the merchants had no income, many lost their fortune and were made bankrupt, and there was also great unemployment among the working men. But even worse no ships landed with corn at Trondheim. Unfortunately, these were also bad years with little to harvest in the Trondheim area. People starved in 1812; it was said that even the richest merchants had to mix their flour with grounded bark. The final death knell for frequent shipping between Trondheim and the Irish ports came when the duty for importing Norwegian timber into Ireland and England was doubled in 1811. This was done to help exports from the English colonies and partly explains why Ballyshannon then developed strong links with St. John, New Brunswick in Canada and other places in The New World. Ships left the harbour at Ballyshannon for Canada, sometimes with emigrants on board, and returned with timber from Canada. This also explains why the earlier trading links with Trondheim were largely forgotten in Ballyshannon, until the recent discoveries in a library in Trondheim.

Thoning Owesen Leaves Ballyshannon for Norway 1822 Thoning Owesen returned to Norway in 1822, against the wishes of the Allingham family, who had become attached to him and hoped that he would buy a property in Ireland. He inherited a vast fortune and bought a grand house called “Leira” with quite a lot of farmland and woodland. He was successful in farming, keeping a large staff, some of whom came over from Ballyshannon. His aunt Mary Anne, living in Ballyshannon, corresponded regularly in verse with him and her poems and writings kept him in touch with his mother’s homeland. In her poems she wrote to him about people and places that he would have been familiar with, since his formative years were spent in Ballyshannon. In his later years Thoning grew religious and retired to a quieter life. He was an only child who had never married and so he had no immediate family in Norway. Thoning Owesen spent his lifetime as a landowner and farmer, and when he died on 5thMarch 1881, the Norwegian newspaper, “Morgenbladet” said that: “he greatly contributed to the progress of agriculture in the north of Norway”. He decided that all his money should be used to help people in need, especially the blind. He founded

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a school for blind children, the first in that part of Norway.

“Drontheims” or Norwegian Yawls at the Mall Quay Trondheim in Norway had become a centre for the supply of timber for the north-west, as Ireland’s stock of timber diminished in the mid- eighteenth century. Norwegian spruce was highly valued in Ireland. This shipping link between Ballyshannon and Trondheim in Norway also included the importing of Norwegian yawls, small clinker-built boats which were carried along with the timber. The boats were known as Drontheims (yawls) and were popular along the northwestern coastline, including the port of Moville. In 1840 a Norwegian vessel brought a cargo, including ready- built yawls to Ballyshannon. These boats were eagerly bought by the fishermen along the coast who were making preparation for the approaching salmon fishing. Yawls were light rowing boats but were strong enough to be launched and were suited to the fishing communities of the western seaboard. The Germans and also the Dutch pronounce Trondheim as Drontheim. Yawl is derived from the Norwegian word Yol and the Drontheims were used by fishermen in Ballyshannon and other seaports along the north-west coast. Forgotten trading links between Trondheim and Ballyshannon have only recently been re-discovered which reveal more evidence of the rich maritime history of the oldest town in Ireland. Anthony Begley Sources 1.

Anthony Begley’s “Ballyshannon and Surrounding Areas. History, Heritage and Folklore” (2009) contains the first published research on the Ballyshannon connections to Trondheim.

2.

The Diary of William Allingham” Centaur Press Sussex 1967.

3.

The Ballyshannon Herald.”

4.

“Journal of the North-West Archaeological and Historical Society” 1987. Article on Trondheim by W.S. Ferguson and Alan Roberts.

5.

Henry Berg “Trondijems sjofart under eneveldet 1660-1814. This refers to navigation from Trondheim. Translations were supplied by Eva Hov.

6.

“Report of the Commissioners of Inquiry into the State of the Irish Fisheries” 1836.

7.

Donal Mac Poilin “The Drontheim: Forgotten Sailing Boat of the North-West Coast.”

8.

Anthony Begley «Ballyshannon Genealogy and History” this current publication contains material on the harbour at Ballyshannon and the fishing, flora and fauna of the area.

Proud to support.

Best Wishes to Donegal Bay Rowing Club on hosting the All Ireland Rowing Finals from all at AIB Donegal Town.

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“Inis Samier” A Drontheim Boat Stephen M. Nolan

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ver the last 25 years much has been written about the “Donegal Yawl”, also known as the “Greencastle Yawl”, the “Drontheim Boat”, or simply “Yawl” or “Skiff” but to my knowledge one rather unique boat has escaped attention to date. She is the 26ft Drontheim boat known as the “Inis Samier”, and inclusion for the first time in this publication makes her story more relevant by the fact she was commissioned by a well known Ballyshannon business man, Mr John Myles, West Port, a well respected Timber Importer. The Inis Samier never had the burden of hard labour, as a working fishing boat, rather the privileged position of being one of 5 which John Myles owned. I have been given a photograph of one of his other “Drontheims” being piloted by Myles himself, which had a small steam engine fitted, complete with funnel belching out black smoke. Courtesy of Mr Jim Slevin, Draped, Ballyshannon. John Myles commissioned the building of the Inis Samier in 1927 from the Beatty Brother’s yard in Moville, Co Donegal. Her hull design reflects the fine lines fore and aft typical in Drontheim boats built by the Beatty’s Bros, but includes many unique features. Her 25ft mast is located in a stayed position about a quarter way from the bow to which she

has a deck fitted. Astern she has a quarter deck, and at the midship position a pivoted center board. She has a large gaff rigged mainsail and a head sail forward. Primarily this Drontheim has been constructed as a sailing boat, but has also been built for rowing, with 4 rowlock positions built in to her combing. This evolved Drontheim is typical of the type which raced under sail in the coastal towns of Moville, Portstewart and Portrush circa 1930. Donal Mac Polin author of the definitive book on these lovely boats includes a fantastic photograph of Racing the “Big Rigs” Portstewart 1930’s on page 76 of “The Drontheim, Forgotten Sailing Boat of the North Irish Coast”. The Inis Samier under sail was proficient, as observed in 1929 by Mr Stewart Grier, (Deceased) who cycled of a Sunday, from Skreen to Maugherow, Co Sligo a distance of nearly 50 miles each way to witness her leave the field for dust and win the Maugherow Cup, it was her first race. This was the first of many wins, other Regatta wins were in Killybegs, Mullaghmore, and Rosses Point. The Drontheim, Greencastle Yawl or Donegal Yawls or Skiffs were hugely popular from Co Antrim to North Mayo from around 1866 onward, and being a double ended design they were both secure and manageable in either a head wind or following seas when rowed by a 4 man crew. In a following wind the fishermen would raise two short masts, stowed

beneath the thwarts with a gaff sail attached to ease the burden of rowing a 24ft to 26ft laden boat. Being high sided they had a great capacity to carry a large quantities of fish, herring and mackerel being the main catch. These graceful boats originally arrived in the North Coast of Ireland as deck cargo aboard timber ships arriving from Norway. The mispronouncing of the name Throntheim, a Norwegian town where these boats were built is the source of the name Drontheim. It wasn’t long before locals began to copy and adapt these strong, sea going boats which were very suitable for the stormy and often difficult conditions off the North Irish Coast. The main builders of these boats were, the Beatty Brothers, Mc Donald Brothers, both of Moville, Co Donegal and the Mc Cann Brothers of Moneygold, Co Sligo. In observing another unique evolved hull design, ie. the Achill Yawl, I remarked this boat to be half Drontheim and half Galway Hooker. Classic Drontheim boats are fine lined, swift under oar or sail, and a great influence on many of the subsequent boats found on the North and Western seaboard of Ireland to this day. Today the once prolific Drontheims have almost vanished, the few remaining are in need of, and deserving of urgent attention and assistance to preserve them, having made a significant contributor to maritime life and the history of the North Coast of Ireland during the 19th and 20th Century. Shortly after John Myles passed away circa 1962, my father,

the late Thomas Micheal Nolan, better known as “the Doctor” purchased the Inis Samier for the princely sum of £6.00 from his widow. From that day, she became known as the “Doctors Yawl” in Inver Port, Co Donegal where he sailed and rowed her from.What became of the other 4 Drontheim boats John Myles owned remains unknown. I do know the Inis Samier was the last remaining boat to be sold and the sale included a good number of spars, sails and other bits and pieces making it difficult to establish what actually belonged to the boats rigging. Over the years she had the odd mishap, being capsized in 1967 and quickly recovered by the fishermen of Inver Port with all on board being quickly returned safely to shore and to The Rising Tide Pub, Inver to recount the adventure. As a boy with my father and brothers, we spent very many days sailing and rowing the Inis Samier, (rowing when we had no wind or outboard engine), around Donegal Bay, into Killybegs, often crossing to Mullaghmore, or Rosses Point, Co Sligo. Regrettably due to the loss of his second son, Pat Nolan at sea, on 1st February 1981 he never sailed the Inis Samier again. She remains in the family and hopefully one day will sail again. Stephen M Nolan, Mountcharles, Co Donegal.

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Donegal Boat Club - a brief history

The Essence of Donegal www.govisitdonegal.com

Paddy Meehan

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our man oared boat racing is not a new phenomenon to Donegal Town. Records and photographs show at the turn of the 19th century, several County Donegal four man coxed wooden skiffs participating in regattas at Donegal Pier. While punt competitions were regularly held in the Rosses, and from the 1970’s, only intermittently at Donegal Town. But for almost 50 years boat annual racing lay dormant in Donegal Town until around the 1970’S when a group of fishermen/pleasure boat owners met in the Central Hotel with a view to reviving skiff racing. If memory serves me right and apologies for any omissions - some of those there on that night Liam Kelly, Paddy O’Donnell, Seamus Brogan, Bert O’Neill, Tom Needham, Paddy McGettigan, Michael Hunt, Paddy Meehan, Liam Hyland, Peter Kennedy and his brother Francis Kennedy, Alrick Thompson… Soon others joined, such rowers as David Henderson,Walter Espey, Ray Tierney,Terence Mullin, Laurence McMullin, Eamon and Colm Harvey, Lynn Temple. Donegal Boat Club was formed and came into existence, competing in two man and single wooden punt events in August of that year against teams from the traditional fishing areas of Inver, Bruckless, Killybegs, Kincasslagh, Arranmore Island. Official shotgun starters at the first regatta-the late Vincent Meehan, Peter Kennedy, a role they continued for almost 15 years. Later that year a wooden skiff was borrowed from Teelin which served as a template for three fibre glass four man skiffs manufactured by fibreglass specialist Jimmy Elvin Enniskillen. These skiffs cost about 1500 pounds each finished and the members spent that winter organising fund raising events, selling tickets door to door countywide, holding concerts etc.. When the word spread, coastal rowing took off big time and soon there were 26 rowing clubs in the county, each owning three skiffs. By now the membership of Donegal Boat Club had increased almost six fold from the original meeting. The Mens Seniors had three teams, under 20’s five, ladies seniors three, ladies juniors three and during the summer seasons the pier area was awash with eager rowers awaiting their turn for an available free training skiff. For the first year or so Donegal, although competing were not winning any races. All this changed in 1974 when Patrick Brady a former UCD and international rower who set up his own optometry practice in Donegal Town joined the club and immediately set about utilising his coaching skills.

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Within the following two years Donegal Town were taking on seasoned teams like Kincasslagh, Arranmore Island, Bruckless, Killybegs, Inver, Teelin and beating them, winning county championships on several occasions. This Donegal Mens Senior team, Coxes alternated between Mark Diver/ John O’ Neill/Seamus Brogan, Stroke Pat Brady, Terence Mullin, Raymond Tierney, Paddy Meehan. Some names from the Womens teams (apologies for any exclusions which are not intentional) - Celine Kelly, Kay Sinclair,Alice Stewart, Leah Meehan, Helen McGroary, Paula O’Donnell, Annette Diver, Pauline Daly, Miriam Feely, Mary Murray. In 1984 Mens Senior County Championships winners at Donegal Regatta, Stroke, Michael Sinclair, Paddy Diver, Declan O’Donnell, Paddy Meehan. In 1978 the club undertook a sponsored row from Donegal Pier to Fintragh Killybegs – this highlight of this – just off St John’s Point less than 100 yards from the skiff a whale popped up her head, as she had just given birth in the area, the dead whale pup washed ashore. The whole whale emerging scenario caught on camera by the late Conor Sinclair in the accompanying rescue boat. During August 1979 a month infamous in Irish History, the club carried out a sponsored row for the Irish Kidney Association, from Rosses Point Sligo to Donegal Pier. Passing the Mullaghmore headland the well known outline of ‘Shadow V’ of Lord Louis Mountbatten was observed fishing. Lord Mountbatten and several others were to be brutally murdered when his boat was blown up later that month. Sometime in the late 1980’s, through lack of enthusiasm, Donegal Boat Club sadly folded, One of the racing skiffs were taken to Killybegs on loan and lay for many years at the old pier area of that fishing town. The two other skiffs were stored at the rear of a house, one eventually given to a temporary warden(from Dublin) of the An Oige ( Youth Hostel Ballhill) who decided to sever it in half to make two smaller vessels. Again sadly, a venture which proved fruitless and both pieces lay there for many years. However in the early 2000’s Donegal Boat Club has been revived, steadily gaining new members and are definitely on their way to winning county or indeed national championships.

County Donegal is a place to sample all that is best about Ireland. Whether you come for a family holiday, a relaxing break or to take part in active pursuits, you will discover people with an easy-going nature. Vibrant towns such as Letterkenny, Donegal and Buncrana hum with activity and there is a warm sense of community in the villages.

its formal gardens is one of Ireland’s premier National Parks and links culture with nature.

Drive along the coastline and drink in the sights exploring the newly-designated Wild Atlantic Way where secrets lie hidden in remote peninsulas. And on the mountain roads, the sweet aroma of turf smoke will greet you as you make your way around.

The county can justifiably make many claims: the highest sea cliffs and the largest sand dunes in Europe, the biggest waves in Ireland … and Europe’s top sausages. With no fewer than 13 unspoilt golden strands, it proudly boasts the largest number of Blue Flag beaches of any county in Ireland.

Walking and cycling on way-marked trails, fishing, golf, horse-riding and watersports are all waiting for you – and it doesn’t matter about your level of fitness. From leisurely forest park or bracing coastal walks to a ride from the seat of a bike or horse there are endless choices. If you want an adrenaline-fuelled experience then Donegal is firmly on the international stage of bigwave surfing. In recent years surfers in Bundoran have pioneered waves previously thought untouchable. Sightseeing is always on the agenda for visitors. In the north of the county, the fairytale Glenveagh Castle with

With its family-run hotels, cosy time burnished pubs, as well as hardware and drapery stores complete with high shelves, long counters and friendly owners, Donegal’s pleasures should be enjoyed slowly.

Where, the visitor may ask, is the essence of Donegal? There is not one particular spot since it is to be found everywhere: from the burstingly fresh local seafood, in the rollers of Rossnowlagh, at the summit of Errigal mountain, in the Killybegs fishing boats bringing home the catch, in the ruins of a medieval castle, on a ferry ride to Tory Island, on top of an ancient hillfort, or in the evocative call of the corncrake or shrill whistle of the oystercatcher. What are you waiting for? There’s much to see and enjoy in Donegal…

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List of

A C C O M M O D AT I O N

EVENTS

Lakeside Centre Caravan & Camping

Thursday

Ballyshannon, Donegal Tel: + 353 71 9852822

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Harvey’s Point Hotel

Dorrian’s Imperial Hotel Main Street, Ballyshannon Tel: +353 71 98 51147

Central Hotel

The Diamond, Donegal Town Tel: + 353 74 9721027

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Official Opening of the “Donegal Bay Maritime Festival” Wee Pier Donegal Town

Contact Details:

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Abbey Hotel

The Diamond, Donegal Town Tel: +353 74 97 21014 w w w. abbeyhot eld o nega l. c o m

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Millpark Hotel Donegal Town Tel: +353 74 972 2880

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Sandhouse Hotel Rossnowlagh, Co. Donegal Tel: +353 71 985 1777

Millpark Hotel

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5 8The Gateway Lodge 3 4Abbey Hotel N56

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Central Hotel N56

Friday

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Donegal Bay Maritime Festival

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Lough Eske Castle, Solís Hotel & Spa

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Rowing from 4pm Lakeside Centre Ballyshannon Opening Ceremony at Sandhouse Hotel Rossnowlagh Donegal Bay Maritime Festival, Donegal Town

Laghy N15

Saturday

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Rowing at the Lakeside 8am - 8pm Donegal Bay Maritime Festival, Donegal Town

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Lough Eske Castle, Solís Hotel & Spa Lough Eske, Co. Donegal Tel: +353 74 972 5100

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The Gateway Lodge Donegal Town, Co. Donegal Tel: +353 74 974 0405

Sunday

14th August 2016

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Rowing 8am - 8pm Awards Ceremony Closing Ceremony for All Ireland & Donegal Bay Maritime Festival at the Abbey Hotel and Wee Pier

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The Sandhouse Hotel & Marine N15

Bed & Breakfast in Donegal

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Various Locations

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It takes only 12 min. drive from Donegal to Rowing Centre in Ballyshannon.

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Production of this brochure sponsored by

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Dorrian’s Imperial Hotel

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Lakeside Centre Caravan & Camping Assar oe La

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North West Ireland

The coast of Donegal invites the visitor to explore a stunning array of sailing waters with its unspoilt offshore islands and breathtaking landscapes. Experience the challenges and thrills of rounding Malin Head – Ireland’s most northerly point or relax in the many sheltered bays and sea loughs that Donegal has to offer such as Lough Swilly, which has a thriving sailing community and a modern marina at Fahan. For those anxious to explore the wonderful North West coast further by land do not leave without seeing ‘Sliabh Liag’, one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Sligo’s dynamic coastal environment is set against a backdrop of Benbulben Mountain and some truly magnificent mountainous scenery.. Sligo Yacht Club based at Rosses Point is one of the oldest in the country and is host to several annual competitions and sail training programmes. Weather permitting the uninhabited Island of Inishmurray is well worth a visit.

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Surfing

Sailing around the north coast offers an opportunity to experience the wealth of marine mammal life and dramatic landscapes of these coastal shores.

Where the Atlantic Ocean beats directly on to the coast you are sure to find the most reliable surfing waters and beaches. The hard-core surfers have named many waves here as among the greatest in the world. One such wave is the Prowlers discovered in Donegal Bay in 2010 that reportedly reaches heights in excess of 50ft (16m)!

Carrickfergus marina offers excellent berthing facilities for visitors and from Glenarm you can easily sail anywhere; the islands of Islay, Mull and Jura are only a day’s sail away. Ballycastle has a superb marina situated on the spectacular North Antrim Coast, while Coleraine Marina is ideally situated in sheltered water and convenient for exploring the wider North Coast. From land, explore the Causeway Coastal Route and don’t miss the unique World Heritage Site at the Giant’s Causeway.

West of Scotland Experience the delightful and distinguished culture of Scotland’s West Coast from south to north. The rugged coastline, from Stranraer up to the Isles, provides both challenging and sheltered waters, plenty of wildlife and great shore excursions. Enjoy the many famous distilleries of Islay and Jura, or visit the pastoral island of Gigha which has a reputation for fine sandy beaches and beautiful gardens. Sail Scotland’s prettiest shortcut; the Crinan Canal; which is known to sailors the world over for its spectacular surrounding countryside. Campbeltown is an excellent stopping point for those heading around Mull, crossing to Ireland or cruising the Clyde. It offers a wide range of facilities for visiting yachts with easy access to the town centre. The Firth of Clyde has several large marinas with capacity for thousands of boats. Cruising opportunities within the Firth are boundless and planning a two week cruise with a different anchorage each night is no problem. Further north the islands of Eigg, Rum, Muck and Canna otherwise known as the Small (or ‘Cocktail’) Isles are well worth a visit and are easily accessed from Mallaig’s new 48 berth marina. The remote coastal communities on the Sound of Mull and on the Morvern Peninsula in Lochaber such as the village of Lochaline which offers visitor berths and moorings are also well worth a visit.

For more information visit www.malinwaters.com

North West Ireland

The best known surfing locations in Donegal are Rossnowlagh and Bundoran. In December 2011 the highest surf has been recorded in Donegal as 68ft. ‘The Peak’ famous in Bundoran offers a challenge to the most experienced surfer, whilst for the novice, gentle beach breaks such as Bundoran’s Tullan Strand and Rossnowlagh Strand provide the perfect beginners wave. Like Donegal, most of the Sligo coastline faces the Atlantic and captures the powerful energy of its waves. Some of the best wave action can be found around Aughris, Easkey and Enniscrone, all renowned for the quality surf with the seaside village of Strandhill being one of Ireland’s most popular breaks.

Northern Ireland Surfers don’t tend to share their secret spots but the word about Portrush is out there and whether you are a complete novice or a seasoned ripper you won’t be disappointed. Portrush’s three beaches are known locally as West Strand, East Strand and Whiterocks. It is a well developed and popular surfing location with everything on offer, including several surf shops, schools and a good quality of nightlife. From Benone Strand travelling east along the North Coast, a surfer will be treated to a continuous necklace of quality beach breaks and the occasional reef.

West of West of Scotland The West Coast is one of the remotest surf zones in Europe, fully deserving its reputation as the “Wild West”. There are many beautiful beaches in Kintyre, and the miles of sand between Machrihanish and Westport provide one of the best surfing beaches in the UK. Whilst facilities may be a little limited, most surfers base themselves in Machrihanish, where there is good camping available. You might not think of Scotland for Surfing but it has some of the best conditions around Europe. Why not grab your board and try something new... You won’t be disappointed.


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The Gateway Lodge is a friendly, family run guest accommodation located in Donegal Town. The Lodge, which is a 2 minute walk to the town centre is made up of 15 individually designed boutique ensuite rooms with flat screen TV’s, tea & coffee facilities & free high speed wifi. We also have a spacious two bedroom self-catering apartment, which can sleep up to 7 adults or 5 adults and 4 children. As well as this we have five fully serviced static motorhome bays located on-site, perfect for family getaways. facebook.com/gatewaydonegal

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LOUGH ESKE CASTLE, is Donegal’s first and only five-star hotel and spa, offering charming country elegance in the spectacular 17th century castle. Set in a beautiful 43-acre forest estate by the shores of Lough Eske with the nearby Bluestack Mountains, the castle offers you a secluded luxury getaway in stunning natural surroundings …only minutes from Donegal Town.

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