A DATE WITH THE DORCHESTER

After 36 years in the kitchens at Claridge’s, acclaimed chef Martyn Nail has joined The Dorchester London, overseeing the menus at recent revamps The Promenade and the new Artists’ Bar, as culinary director. He talks mixing trend and tradition and reveals his favourite London eateries to Helen Dalley.

What was the culinary inspiration for The Promenade and what are some of your favourite dishes?

The Dorchester’s new culinary direction is an exciting one as it will define where trend and tradition meet and create something unique. The Promenade and Artists’ Bar feature menus that reflect the style and period of their setting. They offer both classic and international dishes with a focus on quality seasonal ingredients, sourced responsibly and cooked respectfully. Some of my favourite dishes from the new menus include Cornish lobster cannelloni with sea beet and samphire; roast rack of Kent lamb with charred point cabbage and winter vegetables; and the Scottish halibut with roast celeriac and girolles.

You also curated the menu at Artists’ Bar, which focuses on British seafood, in collaboration with the bar’s mixologists. What was that process like?

The Artists’ Bar’s menu offers superior British seafood carefully prepared using skills and techniques from around the world and includes ceviche, sushi and gravlax dishes. I worked collaboratively with head of bars Simon Rowe when choosing the ingredients; for example, we developed the delicate flavour of The Petal, the venue’s signature cocktail, to complement the clean-cut heat of chilli and the freshness of lime in our ceviche.

You joined The Dorchester this past July after a 36-year stint at Claridge’s. How are you enjoying the challenge so far?

I joined The Dorchester at such a pivotal time, with the hotel having just completed the first stage of its most extensive renovation. Walking into its legendary kitchens, I felt inspired to create a cohesive team that grows beyond industry challenges and provides an outstanding level of service and food. This started with a fully refurbished employee dining room, new menus and a new direction. The employee journey is as important as the guest’s experience and they’re the most important part of what makes and keeps The Dorchester so special.

You’ve been in F&B for many decades. Which people remain your greatest inspirators?

Over the decades we meet many people who become friends, and I couldn’t talk about this subject without mentioning chef John Williams MBE, who I’ve known for nearly 40 years. We joined Claridge’s about a month after each other and his determination to change things for the better in every aspect has stuck with me and stood me in good stead since 1986.

I’ve been lucky enough to work with some inspirational GMs along the way, notably Christopher Cowdray, now CEO of the Dorchester Collection, and Thomas Kochs, who was GM when we brought Noma to London for the 2012 Olympics. Thomas filled our ballroom with more people in one day than Noma did at the restaurant in one week!

How does your menu respond to current dining trends?

I think diners want interesting comfort food that’s satisfying, qualitydriven and respectively sourced. The dishes at The Dorchester are carefully and simply put together, adding layers of detail that create interest and pleasure.

How has your own culinary style evolved?

Food is an ever-evolving craft in general but the innovation within culinary technology, demands within hospitality, and the rise in profile of renowned chefs have all added to the interest and desire for our craft. What will drastically have to change is waste. We need to respect our planet and make changes to maintain this.

Where will we find you dining on your days off?

I enjoy light, simple food. I eat and taste food all day long so giving myself a taste rest is important for me and my trainer or it’s hard work and unnecessary calories. It’s the ongoing dilemma of what I could eat versus what I should eat! Restaurants that have impressed me recently include Nordic restaurant Studio Frantzen at Harrods, Trinity Clapham, Perilla Newington Green and as a great local spot, Sam Riverside in Hammersmith. dorchestercollection.com