THE FINE DINING REVIVAL

The whole concept of fine dining is one that’s morphed and evolved over the past two decades. Long-gone are the days of discrete tableside silver service, at least in Asia, only to be replaced by concepts like ‘casual fine dining’ that, while communal and inviting, do take some of the celebration out of the traditional dining experience.

Fortunately, the arrival of Castellana, a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant in Central’s Club Lusitano, delivers an unapologetically refined, indulgent, and decidedly grown-up dining experience for a lucky few. With a focus on the cuisine of Northern Italy’s Piedmont region, the new two-storey restaurant is helmed by Piedmont-born chef Romeo Morelli, who not only comes from a culinary family, but also taps into extensive experience at leading kitchens in

Italy, Germany, Singapore, and Abu Dhabi to create impeccable regional cuisine defined by tradition and craftsmanship.

We visited midweek to sample the chef’s white truffle menu, which showcased one of the most coveted ingredients in the city’s foodscape calendar. As you’d expect, Castellana’s five-course seasonal menu offered an intriguing and delectable exploration of these ‘white diamonds’ of Alba, with dishes ranging from steamed tuna and anchovy served with a zesty pepper reduction and matched with a perfectly chilled Asti from the chef’s hometown; and delicate Arctic char paired with a sweet-sour blood orange jelly; to tender 10-day dry aged veal that whisks diners into the mountains of Piedmont.

A winner of the evening was the Ravioli di castelmagno e tartfuo bianco , a Castellana signature that sees homemade ravioli generously filled with Castelmagno cheese from Piedmont and served with butter sauce and slices of dry aged egg yolk that add to a nuanced flavour profile while allowing the white truffle topping to shine. Another favourite was the Castagna al tartufo , a dish inspired by the classic Piedmontese dessert Mont Blanc. Castellana’s contemporary take pairs sweetened chestnut purée topped with whipped cream and white truffle, which injected a hint of earthy aroma to this sweet delight.

The fine dining positioning of the new restaurant was further accentuated by the ambience, which was hushed and serene (save for the piped-in vintage Italian pop ballads playing on discreet speakers), and elegant interiors by JJ Acuna / Bespoke Studio. The design agency has created a chef-centred “cucina di casa” concept on the lower floor and an expansive dining room on the upper floor, where timeless décor is punctuated by rustic antiquity, including burl wood ceilings, painted frescos, thick drapes, handcrafted Italian lighting, and carpets that depict the vineyards of Piedmont from the air.

While not every dish was a standout, the attention to detail, the adherence to tradition, and the subtle innovation of a chef with youth on his side, ensured an unforgettable dining experience that flies in the face of communal tables and shared platters.

- NICK WALTON

castellanahongkong.com