Japanese Alpine News Vol. 13, 2012 (v1)

Vol. 13 2012

JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS Pioneering Expeditions, Notable Ascents & Adventures and Scientific Field Research

JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS TABLE OF CONTENTS Vol. 13 2012

FEATURE ARTICLE Highlights on the Eastern Himalaya

Tamotsu Nakamura…

……… 2

Jakob Fisker… Michail Michailov…

…… 23

Janusz Majer… Kimikazu Sakamoto… Kazuo Hoshi… Roger Payne… Tamotsu Nakamura… Tim Boelter… Jeff Shapio… Takao Ohe…

…… 48

Ang Tshering Sherpa… Toshio Yoshida…

… 102

Tamotsu Nakamura…

… 115

Datyabrata Dam…

… 130

Gankar Punsum, Namcha Barwa, Gyala Peri massifs

CLIMBS & EXPEDITIONS Anglo-Danish Expedition 2011 to Kyrgystan Bulgarian Khane Valley Expedition 2011–Paksitan (Supplemented by Tsuneo Miyamori) Koksil Valley–Ghujerab Mountains, Pakistan Exploration 2011 of Hidden Virgin Peaks, Zanskar Two Peaks in the Headwaters of Karcha Nala New Routes & Mystery in Thangsing Valley, Sikkim Autunn 2011 Expedition to Eastern Tibet First Ascent of Yangmolong 2011, Sichuan Grosvenor New Route 2011, Third Ascent Attempt 2011 in three Regions of West Sichuan

…… 30

…… 54 …… 65 …… 70 …… 76 …… 85 …… 90 …… 95

STUDY AND RESEARCH Mountaineering and Adventure in West Nepal Quest for Meconopsis in western Sichuan, China Unclimbed Summits in Sichuan 2011 Book review (Pat Deavoll’s book )

… 107

Cover photo: J ongpo Po Rong 6570m south face in the headwaters of Jiangpu Glacier, Yi’ong Tsangpo, Nyainqentanglha East (Tamotsu Nakamura)

JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS Vol. 13 2012

Editor

Tamotsu Nakamura

E-mail : t-naka@est.hi-ho.ne.jp Design & Printing

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The Japanese Alpine Club 5-4 Yonbancho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0081, Japan Phone : 03-3261-4433 Fax : 03-3261-4441 E-mail : jac-room@jac.or.jp Web : http://www.jac.or.jp http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jac_e.htm ©2012 The Japanese Alpine Club

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Gankar Punsum 7,570m Central Ridge south side, Bhutan – Yoshio Ogata 1

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TAMOTSU TATSUO (TIM) NAKAMURA INOUE

The First Ascent of FengHimalaya (KG-2) 6,805m Hightlights onLopchin the Eastern Autumn 2009 Punsum, Expedition to the Kangri Garpo EastPeri Mountains, Gankar Namcha Barwa and Gyala massifs Tibet

Part I. Gankar Punsum Who may challenge the highest unclimbed peak in the world?

Overview Gankar Puensum is not only the highest mountain in Bhutan but remains the highest unclimbed summit in the world with an elevation of 7,570 meters and a prominence of over 3,000 meters on the border with Tibet, China. Note: A report of the 1986 British expedition gives the mountain's height as 24,770 feet and states that Gangkhar Puensum [newest Bhutanese spelling] is completely inside Bhutan. Its altitude was first measured in 1922 and, until recent years, maps of the region were not at all accurate and the mountain had been shown in different locations and with markedly different heights. On this article, however, a height 7570 meters applies being based on the Chinese sources.

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According to a comprehensive Concise Mountain Name Dictionary (Ichiro Yoshizawa, Sanseido Publishers, Tokyo 1984) South Summit of Ganker Punzum 6760 was climbed on September 15, 1973 by K. I. Kumar from an Indo-Bhutan joint expedition led by D. N. Tankha. But this peak seems only a hump in extension of the central ridge. After Bhutan was opened for mountaineering in 1983 there were a couple of expeditions which were unsuccessful in summit attempts or deadlocked before departure. They are:(1) The Himalayan Association of Japan in 1985 (2) The British party in 1986 (3) The Japanese Alpine Clubáž˝s failed plan in 1998 and ascent of a subsidiary peak Liangkang Kangri in 1999. Since 1994 climbing of mountains in Bhutan higher than 6,000 meters has been prohibited out of respect for local spiritual beliefs and since 2003 mountaineering has been forbidden completely. Therefore Gankar Punsum is keeping its unique status as the highest unclimbed peak in the greater range of the world. Liangkang Kangri (Gankar Punsum North) In 1998 the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) expedition obtained a permit from the China Mountaineering Association to climb the mountain and organized a powerful team of the expedition, but this plan was not realized. As I cannot disclose an inside story behind the sudden cancellation, I write only that the reason why the permit was withdrawn was because of a political issue with Bhutan government. Instead, in 1999, the Japanese Alpine Club sent a team to Tibet and they successfully scaled a 7,535 meters subsidiary peak, Liangkang Kangri (also known as Gangkhar Puensum North). But I regret that Liangkang Kangri is not an outstanding summit and does not look an independent peak. Unlike most maps, the expedition's report shows this summit as being in Tibet and the TibetBhutan border is shown crossing the summit of Gankar Punsum described as "the highest peak in Bhutan," at 7,570 meters, whereas Russian topo map of indicates Gangar Punsum North on the border. There is a contradiction.

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Japanese Alpine Club Expedition 1999

JAC 1999 Expedition

JAC 1999 Expedition 5

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On the 5th May, 1999, five members led by Kiyohiko Suzuki left the final camp (C3) at 6,920m before dawn and ascended the north ridge. When they were climbing the last snow wall, Gankar Punsun north face suddenly came into their sight to the south. On the 9th, four members atop Liangkang Kangri. The expedition departed from Lhasa and drove to the last village Yojitsongtso where a caravan with 75 horses was organized on April 18. BC was set up at 4,750m, and C1 April 25, C2 April 30, C3 May 8 were placed in succession as shown on the Sketch Map of Gankar Punsum as attached. Ambitious Assault 1985 by the Himalayan Association of Japan This is Japanese proud witness of pioneering challenge on the awful but fascinating Central Ridge of Gankar Punsum, a contact line straightly going up to the summit sharing Southwest and South Faces, though they had to stop climbing on the way since one member unfortunately suffered from lung dropsy and rescued by a helicopter. One of the most distinguished Himalayan climbers in Japan, Yoshio Ogata played an important roll as a deputy leader of the expedition with ten members. They started a caravan on August 22 and approached to the Central Ridge from southwest side. They set up BC at 5,050m on the 30th. ABC was set up at 5,450m on September 2. C1 was set up at 6,250m on September 12 and C2 was placed on the 24th successively. On the 28th, Ogata party made route paving and pushed three pitches of fragile rocks using artificial aids to the head of chateau. On the 19th, they fixed ropes for six pitches on steep snow ridge to snow peak at 6,750m. From there treacherous knife-edged snow ridge like the back of a dragon led to No. 2 rock walls zone. On the 29th, very difficult pushes continued. They negotiated snow ridge like huge mushrooms with sheer drops to the both sides. They further climbed up unsound rock tower and reached the foot of a pinnacle where they deposited gear and supplies for the next day and returned to C2. However, climbing suddenly ceased because of one member s lung dropsy. The patient was safely carried down to BC on October 2. Visual materials must be better than literal expression. So I publish as many pictures as pages are possibly allocated.

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SW & S face of Gankar Punsum (left) and Khula Kangri (right) – Francoise Pommerate 7

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Gankar Punsum south face seen from a point before reaching BC – Y. Ogata

Gankar Punsum soaring in the opposite side of glacier upstream Mandi Chu – Y. Ogata 8

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Snow Dome and C2 looked down from rock wall zone to C2 & Snow Dome – Y. Ogata

Knife-edged formidable snow ridge from Snow Dome to C2 – Y. Ogata 9

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Ridge “Back of dragon” beyond Snow Dome

Rock walls zone like chateau above C2

Snow Dome (6500m) seen from C2

Rock wall beneath 6,800m reached

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Part II. Easternmost Rim of the Himalaya Tributes of Frederick M. Bailey Arthur Swinson wrote of F. M. Bailey in his book Beyond Frontiers – The Biography of Colonel F. M. Baily, Explorers & Secret Agents Hutchison & Co Ltd. London 1971. Having completed his review of the journey, Bailey them summed up what in his view were the chief results. These were: 1. The mapping of some 380 miles of the Tsangpo, which had previously only been done by untrained or unreliable explores 2. The lower course of the Nagong Chu 3. Discovery of Gyala Peri, a snow-peak 23,460 feet in height, and of glaciers on it, and Namcha Barwa, the peak on the opposite side of the river 4. The taking observation for altitude on the river, where it breaks through the Himalayas some information regarding the enormous drop on the river has been gained, and the falls reported to be 150 feet in height have been proved to be merely an exaggerated rapid of thirty feet Should China become more civilized on day, and relax her hold on Tibet, then perhaps exploration on India᾽ northeast frontier may commence again. Men will go to see the last few miles of the Tsangpo river not yet glimpsed by European eyes; and mountains will set foot on Namcha Barwa or Gyala Peri. Then Bailey᾽s great journeys will be recalled again and his fame as an explorer will be set aside that of Younghusband and Sven Hedin, Livingstone and Speke. Swinson first published this book in 1971. However Gyala Peri was climbed in 1986 only 15 years later and Namcha Barwa was scaled in 1991 – 1992 only 20 years later. Nevertheless the borderlands surrounding these two outstanding peaks have yet to be explored. Sanglung 7,095m east of Namcha Barwa main summit is unveiled and no one has yet attempt to climb. In 2001 Nippon University Alpine Club planned to send an expedition, but a climbing permit was suddenly cancelled because of the 9.11 disaster in New York. Two major challenging peaks close to 7,000m in height, Tiba Kangri 6,846m and Sengtang Bu 6,812m Gyala Peri massif also remain untrodden. Gakushuin University Alpine Club made a reconnaissance of Tiba Kangri in autumn of 1999, they did not bring back notable information. The Tsangpo transforms itself into the Brahmaputra and flows into the Bay of Bengal after surging between two striking peaks, the 7,782 meters giant, Namcha Barwa and the Gyala Peri 7,294 meters massif. But in the late 1800s, the Tsangpo Gorges were romoured to conceal a waterfall that rivalled Victoria Falls. Cloached in mystery and protected by fierce tribesmen and impenetrable terrain, the Tsangpo was the center of considerable geographical debate. Determined probes to unravel its secrets were made by the Pundit surveyor Kintup (1880) and British explorers Frederic M. Bailey and Henry Morshead (1911 – 1913).

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1. Namcha Barwa 7782m Being located on the easternmost rim of the great Himalaya in East Tibet, Namcha Barwa had long been inaccessible until the China implemented an open-door policy by Deng Xiao Ping in late 1970s. It is about 390 km away to east from Lhasa and encircled with the Tsangpo Great Bent. In 1912 a British of the Survey of India, H. T. Morshead first had a glimpse of the summit from a hill in Assam and in 1913 Morshead and F. M Bailey found the Graat Bent of the Yarlung Tsangpo. Namcha Barwa means a red flush of lightening streaking across the skyáž˝.

Namcha Barwa N face seen from Gyala Peri - Y. Ogata

Namcha Barwa W face viewed from Seti La - T. Nakamura 12

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Peak map of Namcha Baruwa and Gyala Peri massifs drawn by T. Nakamura

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Overwhelming 3,000m West face of Namcha Barwa â&#x20AC;&#x201C; T. Nakamura

In 1973, the Chinese Academy of Sciences began to send teams from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau institute for conducting scientific survey and research of the basin of the Yarlung Tsangpo. But an attempt to climb the mountain had to wait until the Japanese Alpine Club and the China Mountaineering Association organized a powerful joint expedition in late 1980s.

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Aerial view of west and south face of Namcha Barwa – Yomiuri Shimbun

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In succession to the first attempt in 1991, the Japan-China joint team headed by Jiro Yamada (Japan) and Losang Dawa (China) challenged again in 1992. BC 3520m was established in the southwestern side on September 14. C1 4300m was set up above primeval forest. C2 4850m was built on a flat place of the glacier which flowed from Naipun peak 7043m on the south ridge. Rock wall to the C2 mixed with snow and ice. They traversed a couloir in deep snow and set up C3 5600m on the south ridge. They followed the long south ridge in deep snow to C4 6200m, and C5 6900m was place just beneath the Naipun peak. On October 27, they descended 200m along the south ridge and set up the final assaulting camp, C6 6700m. On October 28, the route was to traverse the south face and 14 ropes were fixed on the most critical pitches to rock band. On October 29, they fixed further 24 ropes onward and bivouacked at 7600m. On the following day they pushed three pitches before reaching NNE ridge. Struggle against deep snow to waist on the NNE ridge led to the summit. The first party stood atop at 12:09 on October 30. The second party stood atop at 14:30 on the same day. The ascent must be one of the hardest and most remarkable climbs in the Himalaya. Climbing Chronicle of Namcha Barwa

The following is a summary of Climbing Record of Namcha Barwa described on an official report of the Japan - China Joint Expedition in 1992. 1) Attempt by Chinese parties 1960 – 1984 The first attempt was made by a Tibetan party in 1960. They reached a point at 5,000m on the south ridge. Then there was a long blank time and full scale expeditions commences in 1982 after 22 years. In the same year the Chinese Academy of Sciences conducted survey and research of the Yarlung Tsangpo and adjacent unvisited areas. The mountaineering expeditions made a reconnaissance of a viable climbing route in 1982 and succeeded in the first ascent of Naipun peak 7,043m 1983. In the following year they again challenged with powerful members of strong Tibetan climbers, but could not go farther than Naipun peak. The season of their attempts in 1982 - 1984 was in the pre-monsoon which fosters much snow precipitation. 2) Failure in 1991 The Japan-China Joint Expedition started in 1990. In this year a joint reconnoitering party ascended up to a point 6,900m of Naipun peak in only 8 days and could have a confidence to reach the summit of Namcha Barwa from there. In 1991 a full scale joint team was dispatched for climbing. They set up BC on September 30, but unexpected deep snow caused a fatal accident. On October 16, Hiroshi Ohnishi was killed by avalanche en route to C4. This happening made climbing speed very slow and consequently they failed to reach the summit due to lack of time and supplies and fierce winds prevailing in high altitudes. 3) Tactics in 1992 – Successful ascent The failure in 1991 taught a good lesson. They １gained a conclusion that 4 - 5 days in mid October in post-monsoon season would be the best timing for assaulting the summit in consideration of weather conditions. This is the most important factor for the success. Their climbing tactics were:1. C2 must be set up by mid September. 16

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2. Climbing period was staged in 3 steps: (1) Placing BC. C1, C2 and route paving to C3 for ferrying loads. (2) Placing C3, C4 and route paving to C5. (3) Placing C5 and route work to C6 and farther to the rock band, and assaulting the summit. 3. Controlling logistics in most efficient and optimum supplies distribution. 4. Best combination of members in two teams. 5. Enhancing an ability of weather forecast: one specialist was included in the members. Though the meteorological satellite Noa , an access to information from the Japan Meteorological Association was possible. Note: One of 6 Tibetan summitters is Bianba Zaxi (27 years old in 1992). He is a potential eightthousander now well-known in world mountaineering community.

Unknown Sanglung in the Tsangpo Gorge 17

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Very few experts of the Himalaya region have a knowledge of this mountain, but Frank KingdonWord had already visited the hardly accessible region of the world largest canyon in 1924. He published his account on the journey The Riddle of the Tsangpo Gorges (Edward Arnold, London 1926). He wrote in the book as follows. Across the river is a range of snow-peaks, and above Payi is the great bulk of Sanglung, 23,018 feet. With a terrific snow cliff facing eastwards; east of that again are smaller several snow-peaks, and then the range which just west of Sanglung had attained the dazzling height of 25,445 feet in Namcha Barwa, sinks down and melts into the low rounded jungle-covered hills of the Abor country. Sanglung is located 8 km east of Namcha Barwa inside of the Great Bend. The main is unveiled but no one has yet attempted to climb. In 2001 Nippon University Alpine Club planned to send an expedition, but a climbing permit was suddenly cancelled because of unknown reason. Such case is not unusual in eastern Tibet.

Sanglung N face seen from Gyala Peri - Y. Ogata

Aerial view of Sanglung (left) Namcha Barwa (right) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; T. Nakamura

2. Gyala Peri 7294m massif There is an outstanding mountains massif with three prominent peaks north of Namcha Barwa and the Tsangpo Great Bend. They are Gyala Peri 7294m, Tiba Kingri 6846m and Sentang Bu 6812m. Gyala Peri is 24 km NNW of Namcha Barwa. In 1912, H. T. Morshead and F. M. Bailey first had a look. In 1913, F. M. Bailey viewed this peak from the ridge near Sanglung Glacier. He described his impression on his book No Passport to Tibet (Rupert Hart-Davis, London 1957) as follows. The snow-clad which Morshhead and I had discovered from Mipi half hidden by its rival Namcha Barwa was now revealed in its true magnificence. Its name was Gyala Peri and it towered to 23,460 feet. In itself it was one of the greatest mountains of the world; but what made it so astonishing was 18

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that only thirteen miles away the peak of Namcha Barwa, 25,445 feet, and between them flowed the Tsangpo over 14,000 feet below Gyala Peri and 16,000 feet below Namcha Barwa. It was an example of the power of water startling as that of the Colorado river in the Grand Canyon. It was a fantastic landscape with different glaciers, some covered in rock and earth and others just masses of dirty ice. (July 17 th, 1913, at Gyala, 9,300 feet)

(from left) W & S face of Tiba Kangri, Sentangbu and Gyala Peri – T. Nakamura

Gyala Peri southwest face – K. Yamamori 19

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In 1936, ᾽38, ᾽46 – ᾽47, Frank Ludlow and George Sherriff entered the region for quest for flowers and plants hunting. They brought back plenty of pictures. Gyala is the name of a village on the right bank of Yarlung Tsangpo. Peri means a high mountain. The first ascent was made a Japanese party of the Himalayan Association of Japan headed by Yoshio Ogata via the south ridge on October 31, 1986. But the other two peaks, Tiba Kangri and Sentang Bu have been yet attempted and remain untrodden accordingly. The Gakushuin University Alpine Club made a reconnaissance of Tiba Kangri in autumn of 1999, but they did not bring back notable information. These magnificent peaks must draw more attraction in near future On September 15, the Japanese party set up BC 3200m on the right bank of the Gyala Peri Glacier. From there they started climbing of 4000m in elevation. Advance base camp 4200m was established at the foot of the west face in the opposite side of the Glacier. Climbs first began with a long rock ridge of the right rim of the face. After three pitches of knife-edged ridge from the plateau, C1 5000m was set up. Four pitches on rock ridge, detour of pinnacles, eight pitches of snow ridge and further push on a slab at 60 – 70 degree angle covered with unstable snow led to a place for C2 5650m. Above the C2, they climbed the south ridge, negotiating crevassed ice cliffs and set up C3 6300m. Ice cliffs continued. Climbing route was taken upwards among the ice cliffs to C4 6700m. After taking rest, four members returned to C3 on October 28. On October 31, three members reached the foot of the summit rock wall after being bothered by deep snow. There were complicated crevasses beneath the summit. They climbed ice wall with double axes from the bottom of couloir like a well. They stood a top at 16:55. It took 13 hours from C3.

Knife-edged ridge of Gyala Peri - Y. Ogata 20

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Gyala Peri south face - Y. Ogata

Sentangbu south face seen from Seti La – T. Nakamura 21

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Tiba Kangri south and west face seen from near Seti La – T. Nakamura

Tiba kangri west face seen from Lunang – T. Nakamura 22

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JAKOB FISKER

Angloâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Danish Expedition 2011 to Kyrgyztan Sauktor Area of the Djangart Rejion, Kokshall-Too Range The idea for the expedition came to life in late 2010, after having read about an Anglo-American expedition that made several first ascents in the region in summer 2010. The Anglo-Danish team set an objective to attempt to do the first ascents of Pt. 5,025, Pt. 5,318 Pt. 5290 and Pt. 5,190 and to find new objectives while in the area. The expedition picked the Sauktor area of the Djangart region, as everything there would be unclimbed. The expedition planned to stay in the region for seventeen days.

Expedition Members Carsten Cooper Jensen - Expedition leader Simon Lund Jensen Anders Hedeager Pedersen Kristoffer Szilas Jim Broomhead Jakob Fisker Sune Buur - Logistics handled by Tien-Shan Travel - Jevgenij

Expedition Summery All expedition members met in Manas International Airport in Bishkek on the 17th of July, and departed on the 10 hours bus ride through Kyrgyzstan accompanied by the expedition cook and helper. Additional food purchasing was sorted on the way. In the city of Karakol the expedition changed vehicle, to a 4WD Comanche truck. After unloading and loading of vehicles the expedition continued to the military base and helipad of Maida Adyr. The expedition spent the night at Maida Adyr and left with a MI8 helicopter the next morning for the Djangart in the Kokshall-Too range, after having their permits checked by the Kyrgyzs army. After 30 minutes of flying, the expedition and gear were dropped off in a valley at 3400 meters, near the outflow of the Kichik Sauktor Glacier, where we established base camp. Soon after, the expedition discovered that the gas canisters used for melting snow in the mountains had not been on the helicopter, and that the sat-phone did not work either, so we could not contact our logistics partner for assistance. The next day three expedition members were hauling gear to the glacier, while others were at base camp, when a Russian family on a trekking trip came through camp. They offered to let members use their sat-phone, which saved the expedition. The next day, two boxes of gas canisters were flown out to base.

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Map of the eastern part of the Djangart region (Sauktor), marked with our established and attempted climbs.

The three teams set out from base the day after, two teams (Buur, Fisker and Hedeager Pedersen Cooper Jensen and Lund Jensen) went for objectives pt. 5025, pt. 5190 and pt. 5112 on the Kichik Sauktor Glacier, while one team (Broomhead and Szilas) went for objective pt. 5290 on the Chulaktor Glacier. After acclimatization and reconnaissance on the Kichik Sauktor, the team (Buur, Fisker and Hedeager Pedersen) made a failed attempt on pt. 5025. The following day the team climbed pt. 5190 in clear weather, establishing the route Waiting for the tide (AD: 55, 700m), making a high traverse of the mountains glacier and ridge, reaching a football field sized plateau before climbing a 400m snow couloir leading to the summit. The same day the trio descended towards base camp, but had to bivy at a river on the way, hence the name of the route. The team have proposed the name Peak Pernille, after FiskerÂ´s girl friend. After spending two days at base, the team returned to Kichik Sauktor glacier, to make another attempt on Pt. 5025, after being tent-bound for two days in snow and whiteout, the team used a break in the weather, (Buur and Hedeager) to make an attempt, but found the terrain too difficult and the weather in early morning very warm, which was typical for the entire expedition. After the return the team 24

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(Buur, Fisker, Hedeager) packed up camp and returned to base. The team (Cooper Jensen and Lund Jensen) made an unsuccessful attempt on pt. 5,112, were they met insufficient ice conditions and poor rock quality on route. After descending they moved camp from 4,400m back to 4,100 before descending back to base. After 2 days at base the team (Cooper Jensen and Lund Jensen) moved up the moraine again (sigh), spent one night in 4,100, and did the first ascent of peak 4,885, and named it Peak Kathryn after Carsten Cooper Jensen᾽s wife. The route had severe objective hazards, the lower slope is exposed to massive rock fall, and the middle part is exposed to seracs. The upper part demanded navigating through a hanging glacier, which was fun and scary, the initial slope is 60 degrees, and eases out at the top. The team stopped 20 vertical meters from the summit due to severe avalanche hazard (read 10 cm of hard wind slap on top of 40 cm of sugar snow, at a 40 degree slope) The team named the route Russian Roulette (AD 60, 700m). After descending, the team spent one night at the glacier and returned to base camp. The last team (Broomhead and Szilas) moved to Chulaktor glacier, where they after days of acclimatization and reconnaissance made a successful climb of pt. 5,290m by the route Bivouac French for Mistake (D: 5.4, 70,700m) The route starts up a couloir system left of the large hanging serac on the east face. A few pitches of clean rock climbing (5.4) on solid granite leads to a mixed gully, which is followed untill the base of a steep rock wall and then the route traverses right out to the hanging glacier. Snowy ice fields leads to a ridge with a pronounced cornice/serac, under which the team bivouacked. From there mixed climbing on a rocky ridge leads to an overhanging serac that is passed on the left and a short ice field leads to the summit ridge. The following day the team descended to base camp, where they met the rest of the expedition members. After a day᾽s rest (Broomhead and Szilas) made a lengthy approach to the N2 glacier and Pt. 5,318, to find their gear insufficient and the conditions far too warm, to attempt such a project. After a days rest, the team returned to base, where they after having dried out their gear, moved east towards pt. 4950 which they climbed by the route Mermaid (D: M4, 70, 500m) The approach takes a ramp that cuts through a steep marble band and a steep talus field leads to the foot of the west face. Half a pitch of technical mixed climbing on verglassed marble (M4) is follow by a traverse on a ramp system below a steep marble wall, which connects to an ice field left of the hanging glacier. From there the ice field continues all the way to the summit ridge, through some rocky steps. The ice field is extremely exposed to avalanches from the upper part of the wall as the left-hand side of the hanging glacier acts as a funnel. The team returned safely to base camp and have proposed the name Peak Lea after Szilas´ girl friend. The expedition departed the Djangart Valley by helicopter on August 3.

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Routes climbed Pt. 5,190

Approximate Coordinates: N:41.71077, E:079.07499 Acces From: Kichik Sauktor Glacier Proposed name: Peak Pernille Route name: Waiting For The Tide Route Grade: AD: 55 Route Length: 700 m Team: A. Hedeager Pedersen, J. Fisker, S. Buur Date Of Ascent: July 26th 2011

Peak Pernille “waiting for the tide”

Pt. 4,885

Approximate Coordinates: 41° 42'41,96"N, 79° 02'25,45"E Acces From: Kichik Sauktor Glacier Proposed Name: Peak Kathryn Route Name: Russian Roulette

Route Grade: AD, 60 Route Length: 700 m Team: S. Lund Jensen, C. Cooper-Jensen Date Of Ascent: July 30th 2011

Peak Kathryn“Russian Roulette” 26

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Pt. 5,290

Approximate Coordinates: 41.686085, 79.017956 Acces From: Chulaktor Glacier Proposed Name: Peak Alexandra Route Name: Bivouac - French For Mistake

Route Grade: D: 5.4, 70 Route Length: 700 m Team: J. Broomhead, K. Szilas Date Of Ascent: July 25th - 26th 2011

Peak Alexandra“Bivouac - French For mistake”

Pt. 4,950

Approximate Coordinates: 41.760877, 79.106904 Acces From: River valley Proposed Name: Peak Lea Route Name: Mermaid Route Grade: D: M4, 70 Route Length: 500 m Team: J. Broomhead, K. Szilas Date Of Ascent: August 1st 2011

Peak Lea “Mermaid” 27

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Weather In the seventeen days spent in the Djangart region, members found the weather to be fairly stable with over ten days of clear skies and sunshine mainly in the beginning of the expedition, with temps around 25 degrees in base camp at 3,400 m. About 5 days consisted of early morning sun and afternoon rain/snow thunderstorm, with up to 5 cm of fresh snow above 4,000 m, the storms usually ended by early evening. Two to three days consisted of heavy snow and whiteout above 4,000 m, on the last days of our stay we had two days of on and on snow, which produced 10-15 cm. Temperatures varied greatly both on the glacier (4,400m) and in the valley (34,00), with members relaxing in their shorts and t-shirts on warm days, and in the mess tent in their fiber jacket on the cold. The expedition experienced stronger winds during the afternoon storms, but it was never consistent for more than a few hours. The heat and rain made for very difficult river crossings, on several occasions it was only possible to cross in late evening or early morning. This made for several interesting crossings, where members on the north side had to assist with ropes. It is recommendable to bring a static rope, to be able to establish a tyrolean traverse for safe and quick passage. It is possible to place a base camp on the south side of the river near the distal moraine of Kichik Sauktor. However it is only possible to access Kichik Sauktor and the eastern placed glaciers from here. Due to the extreme heat at higher altitude, there was a rapid melting of snow on and around the glaciers, with a lot of rock and serac fall during the day and night. While travelling on the glacier we often encountered thigh deep slush, before mid day.

Future Expeditions to Sauktor There are still a lot of potential for new routes and unclimbed peaks in the Sauktor region of the Kokshall - Too range. There are still a great number of unclimbed 4,000 and 5,000 m peaks. We would recommend for future expeditions to focus on the peaks of Pt. 5,025 and Pt. 5,112 on the Kichik Sauktor Glacier and Pt. 5,318 on the N2 Glacier, Pt. 5,318 has been the objective of all visiting expeditions to the area and remains unclimbed. Pt. 5,025 and Pt. 5,112 have a lot of mixed route potential, on 5,025 we encountered good rock quality (granite). 5,318 have a very big and challenging north face. In our opinion it should be considered to visit the area in late spring or autumn, to have better luck with conditions and colder weather

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Pt. 5,025

The beautiful north face of Pt. 5,025

Pt. 5,112

Many possible lines on the face of Pt. 5,112, as seen from the summit of Pt. 5,190 (Peak Pernille)

Pt. 5,318

The 1,500m east face of the unclimbed Pt. 5,318 seen from the N2 glacier 29

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NIKOLAY PETKOV, DOYCHIN TATSUO (TIM) BOYANOV, INOUE MICHAIL MICHAILOV

The First Khane AscentValley of Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805m Bulgarian Expedition 2011–Pakistan Autumn 2009 Expedition Kangri Garpo2011/12, East Mountains, Tibet First Phase Karakoram to Bigthe Walls Project Tagas Group (Supplemented by Tsuneo Miyamori)

Tangra Tower 5,620m south face, No.33 on Wala map, unclimbed 30

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Between September 10 and 22, 2011, a Bulgarian exploratory expedition visited the Khane Valley in Karakoram to investigate and assess to the possibilities for new big-wall routes and ascents on unclimbed summits. Our team included Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov and Mihail Mihaylov. We availed ourselves of information and maps by Jerzy Wala; other sources were Google Earth, the 2005 Annual Book of the Korean Students᾽ Alpine Federation as well as knowledge of local inhabitants of the Khane village. On September 11, 2011, after a two-day walk from Khane village, the team built a base camp at 4650 m on the right-hand (north) moraine of the Khane Glacier. We observed, photographed and measured the summits in the upper part of the valley: Hidden Tower (~,5830m), Agil (~5,680m), Tangra (~5,620m), Rila (~5,600m), Sofia (~5,550m), Meligo (~5,680m), Gray Tower (~5,300m), etc. The heights determined by us were measured with a GPS Garmin with an average horizontal accuracy of 6 to 8 m, corresponding to a vertical accuracy of about 20 meters. All other height figures, marked with the tilde sign (~), are tentative, taken from the Google Earth model for this region.

Mountaineering History For many years, the Khane Valley has remained in a shadow of the neighboring Nangmah and Charakusa Valleys closely to the north and parallel to it as Charakusa and Nangmah᾽s greater had potentials for first ascents on the fine granite walls of unclimbed peaks in 1990s and 2000s. Currently, the main summits and walls in these two valleys have all been climbed. To date, the Khane Valley has only been places for the same name village providing pastures for their livestock and most summits were unnamed except for those peaks seen from the villages along the Hushe River, the Nangmah Valley and the pastures along the Khane River up to around 4,300m. According to the Khane villagers, the first foreigner to have visited the valley in 2001 was a Korean; he came two more times and made two failed attempts to climb, most probably, the west wall of Agil Summit. During the second visit the Koreans set up a camp at 4,450m and opened a climbing route on a 250-meter high rocky outcrop near by – probably reaching the very top of this satellite arête. Actually, this is the first route to be made here, but the climb was insignificant since there are many other bigger walls surrounding the valley to all directions. So far we have no other information on explorations and attempts on climbing the other summits. It is said that an American came for a trekking after Ogre Peak expedition. She reached a foot of Great Tower tracing a big grassy terrace (First Terrace) along the side valley between Rila and Tangra Peaks to the east and Sofia Peak to the west. The other ascents before 2011 started from the Nangmah Valley on Black Tower (Sarigo) and Singu Chatpa (also called Singu Charpa and Great Tower). There is a small but very beautiful pointed peak towering over Khane village, called Nauari Brakk (~3,250m); this was first climbed by villagers Ali Mehmed and his son, Ruhal Ali in 2009. All the other summits surrounding the valley remain untrodden.

Geography The Khane Valley is perpendicular to the Hushe River in Masherbrum Range. The valley is separated from the Nangmah Valley to the north by a serrated rocky ridge. Another rocky barrier delimits its southern edge, separating it from a small valley above Haldi Village (also Halde). To the east, where the main ridge makes an almost right-angle curve, is the upper part of the Tagas Valley. The ridge in 31

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the northeastern part of the valley borders on the upper side of the Lachit Valley and Glacier. The highest part of the Khane Valley is orientated in the north-south direction and the main part in the east-west-northwest direction. The right-hand (north) and left-hand (south) sides of the Khane Glacier and River are delimited by two main ridges. To the north, the right-hand one slopes down to the Nangmah Valley. Its main peaks are Black Tower (Sarigo) and Great Tower (Singu Chatpa). The Khane Glacier flows south through the Khane Col (~5,250m). At first, it moves in the northsouth direction, then, after an icefall at 4,900m, it abruptly turns west. At 4,400m, the glacier᾽s snout gives rise of the Khane River, flowing northwest. This is the place we named Second Terrace, where the Korean camp was situated. After a sheer drop, the river forms a waterfall and flows through a wide grassy plain (First Terrace) used for pastures. The main peaks situated on the left-hand side of the glacier above Khane Col are Hasho II (~6,000m), Peak 58 (~5,930), Hidden Tower (or Peak 59, ~5,830), Khanlim (Peak 60) and the Twins. On the right-hand side of the glacier are Peak 23 and Agil (~5,680). At the base of the Twins᾽ north wall, the Khane Glacier abruptly turns west along the north slopes of the southern ridge. Immediately before sloping down to the Hushe Valley, the left-hand (southern) ridge has two main peaks: Meligo (~5,680m) and Grey Tower (~5,300m). Meligo Peak is separated from the Twins to the east by a saddle that can be reached by an iced gully between the Twins and the Saws Ridge. Seen from the north (from Khane), Meligo is characteristic with two big rocky arêtes, named the Ghulam and Fida Towers (~5,200m), which rise from the main ridge coming from the east. To the west, it is connected to Gray Tower. Down to 4,400 m, Meligo᾽s northern slope is covered with the South Khane Glacier. This can be crossed and, after a small saddle and crossing a steep gully, the saddle between Meligo and Gray Tower is reached at 5,000m. After Gray Tower, the ridge (~4,800m high) gradually slopes down to the valley at Khane Village (2,800m). The right-hand main ridge begins from Khane Pass. It is directed from the east to the northwest. Starting from Khane Pass, it includes Peak 23 (~5,600m), the Trident (Peak 26, ~5,550m), the Thumb (Peak 31, ~5,480), Peak 32, Tangra Tower (Peak 33, ~5,620m), Rila Peak (Peak 36, ~5,600m), Levski Peak (Peak 38, ~5,620m), Singu Chatpa/Great Tower (Peak 44, ~5,910m), Gamgar Brakk (an arête between the two main summits), Black Tower/Sarigo (Peak 50, ~5,600m) and, immediately above Khane Village, Nauari Brakk (Peak 52, ~3,250m). Agil (Peak 24, ~5,680m) is a prominent summit situated south of the main ridge, on a secondary ridge starting from Peak 23 and sloping down to the middle of the valley where the glacier forms a right angle. The other prominent summit visible to the north from the First Terrace is Sofia (Peak 39, ~5,550m). It is situated on a side ridge, starting from the main one at Singu Chatpa and going south. The North Cirque (5,100m) is at the bottom of the valley flanked by Agil Peak to the east, Tangra Peak to the west and the Trident and Khane Col II to the north. Starting from the cirque, the North Khane Glacier flows to the south, perpendicularly to the main Khane Glacier. Its terminus gives rise of a big stream and valley descending all the way down to the glacial plain named Second Terrace. Another big cirque and a relatively easily accessible valley are formed between Singu Chatpa and Sofia Peak to the west and Levski and Rila Peaks to the east. This valley goes down to the glacial plain named First Terrace. Narrow and closed but well shaped, the third valley lies between Black Tower, Singu Chatpa and Sofia Peaks. It goes down to the lower part of the main valley, close to the beginning of an abandoned artificial channel. Apart from the peaks forming the high ridges, other places of interest from the climber᾽s point of 32

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view are the rocky faces of the towers in the lower zone, immediately above the valley᾽s bottom. These are prominent rocky needles and towers with 300 to 400-meter high-quality granite walls. These satellite peaks are more characteristic for the northern slopes, which mean that they have predominantly south, west and east faces, with no snow or ice on them. They are suitable for multipitch rock-climbing routes. * The right-hand and left-hand directions are determined as observed whilst facing downstream.

Access A three-hour SUV drive along the valleys of the Indus and Shyok Rivers leads from Skardu, the administrative capital of the Pakistan᾽s Baltistan Province, to the town of Khaplu. Up to this point, there is an asphalt road in a pretty good state. From Khaplu, take the wire-rope bridge across the Shyok River to the north, towards the villages of Machulu and Khane. This is the road of Hushe. About 1:30 hours from Khaplu (dirt road) the village of Khane is reached, situated on the left bank of the Hushe River, at 2,800m. This village is relatively unknown to foreign visitors. The locals grow crops and breed animals, mainly goats, sheep and yaks. For the time being, there is no special permit needed to visit Khane and the neighboring Nangmah Valley. By contrast, to visit other valleys in the region, as the Charakusa Valley, you need a trekking permit. As the summits don᾽t surpass 6,500m, no permit is needed for them either. On the map, there are many other valleys visible to the south and east of Khane – the Haldi, Tagas, Tsino and Lachit Valleys – but all of them are closed to foreigners (except the first one may be), and this applies to all ramifications of the Saltoro and Kondus Valleys all the way back to the Siachen 33

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Glacier, the demarcation line with India. The military checkpoint and barrier are in the village of Haldi. Khane Village is the starting point of the trek, going east on the steep sandy slope of the river᾽s left bank. After reaching an irrigation channel* cut into the slope, the path follows this horizontally towards the Khane River. After a 5-hour᾽s walk, you reach the big grassy plain (First Terrace) at 4,000m. Here, the first camp is set up in the vicinity of the livestock pens (a camping tax is collected). From here on, there are excellent places to set camp for climbing in the valley. Starting from the green terrace, the path initially crosses flat fields on both sides of the Khane River until it reaches the far end of the terrace (it is advisable to use the northern river bank, i.e. the left-hand one when going upstream). A 450-meter ascent leads to the Korean Base Camp at the bottom of the valley coming down from the North Cirque. The Bulgarian Camp is reached in one hour going east, upstream the main Khane Glacier. It is situated on the large sandy flats to the right (or to the left when going up) of the glacial moraine at 4,650m. This is the last good place with hard soil and water. From the Bulgarian Camp, the Khane Icefall is reached in 1:30 hours. This is also the way to reach the Hidden Tower wall. The icefall can be climbed in its left-hand side. An early start is advisable because of the two huge seracs hanging from the western slopes of Khanlim Peak (Peak 60).

Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – southern part from the southwest

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Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – southern part 36

Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – northern part

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Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – upper part

Summits and Glaciers When naming the peaks, we have taken into consideration, at the first place, existing local names, and then the ones given by the Korean expedition. For all others, we have used the numbering and elevations quoted on maps by Jerzy Wala. Geographic names given by the Bulgarian expedition are the following: Summits Hidden Tower (~ 5,830m) – Peak 59 Rila Peak (~ 5,600m) – Peak 36 Levski Peak (~ 5,520m) – Peak 38 The Thumb (~ 5,480m) – Peak 31 Grey Tower (~ 5,300m) – Peak 222

Tangra Tower (~ 5,620m) – Peak 33 Sofia Peak (~ 5,550m) – Peak 39 The Trident (~ 5,550m) – Peak 26 Ghulam & Fida Towers (~ 5,100m) – Peak 68 The Saws Ridge, Peak 66

Glaciers and cirques North Cirque & North Khane Glacier (~ 5,000m) South Khane Glacier (~ 4,900m)

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Hidden Tower 5,830m north and south face, No. 59 on Wala map, unclimbed

Agil Peak 5,680m (Korean name) southwest face, No. 24 on Wala map, unclimbed 38

Rila Peak 5,600 south face, No. 36 on Wala map, unclimbed

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Overview of Peaks Surrounding Nangmah Valley, Tagas Group Fukusima Expedition 2005

(Text: Tsuneo Miyamori, Photos: Shigehiro Kakizaki) The Tagas massif is surrounded by those valleys of Hushe, Saltoro, Kondus, Lachit and Nangmah, namely ranges northwards to the K6 massif from the Austrian Col that shares the Nangmah and Lachit valleys. Jerzy Wala᾽s map is attached hereto for identification. Those rivers of Nangmah, Khane, Tagas and Lachit flow out from near Hasho Pk ca.6200m W22 (number marked on the Wala map). These rivers were used as an access to climb peaks around K6. Lofty rock peaks soaring in both sides of the rivers attacked climbers᾽ attention in 1980s. Wojciech Kurtyka᾽s photographs and Wala᾽s detailed and comprehensive maps inspired many climbers in 2000s. Peaks are not high but dark granite rock walls with sharp-pointed towers are awful and most challenging. They would provide abundant fields for extreme and exciting climbs. The Nangmuh River locates adjacent to and north of the Khane River which the Korean and Bulgarian entered. The K6 massif is on the right bank and the Tagas massif in on the left bank of the Nangmuh Rivers. A ridge, local name Lele, and a top of Cuculi Brack ca. 5,600m W49 are viewed towards upstream from Minjul/Mingyul of the Hushe valley, if weather is fine. An access route is in the both sides of the river. Steep zigzag ascent continues from New Kande to Minjul as if were in the abysm sided by overwhelming rock walls. A group of pointed peaks first seen are W147 and W143 of Nurishan Pks. Height of these peaks is not measured. 1. Photo ① shows the W143 taken from the west and east. 2. ② After passing Karuka, a whole view of Cuculi Brack ca. 5,600m W49 appears and summit ridge ranging east to west above the northwest face. 3. The central part of ③ is a dark wall of Shingu Chapta (Great Tower) 5,910m, which was first climbed via the east face by Shin Dong-Chul and other two member of a Korean party in 1999 after a trial attempt on Amin Brakk. 4. All peaks including ④ Lunkha Peaks have been yet measured. A peak in the center, Kusho Pk II ca. 6,200m W22 is behind Lunkha Pk W29. 5. Photo ⑤ is a picture seen from Karuka to east. Takab Tower W17 is prominent and only from this point Husho Pk I W21 can be seen on the right-upper part of this picture. On the further right-upper part snowy summit ridge of Luhka Pk W29 is noticed. 6. ⑥ Vertical dark wall in the right of Takub Tower W17 is of an unmeasured peak called Roungkhanchang II W30 ca. 4,700m. Roungkhanchan ranges from 1 to IV peak having magnificent rock walls. In 2004, before assaulting Shingu Chatpa, three members of an Italian party successfully climbed 540m vertical wall of Roungkhanchan I ca. 4,500m in 14 pitches. 7. ⑦ The Austrian Col is the lowest saddle at ca. 5,400m to connect the Nangmah River and Lachit River being behind a front ridge. The Col was en route for ascending K6 and shares the K6 massif and the Tagas massif. 8. ⑧ From W131 ranging to Nawaz Brakk and then to Amin Brakk, but only W130 is dominant in 39

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sight. 9. ⑨ Only a top of Amin Brakk is seen. Changui Pk W132 and W130 are only subsidiary peaks of Amin group. 10. ⑩ The last fortress in the K6 massif, Changui Tower. North face would presumably remain unclimbed.

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TATSUO JANUSZ (TIM) MAJER INOUE

The First Ascent of Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805m Koksil Valley – Ghujerab Mountains Autumn 2009 Expedition to Northern the Kangri Garpo EastPakistan Mountains, Tibet Exploration 2011 Karakoram, From 8th to 19th August 2011, we explored the Koksil (Kuksel/Kuksil) Valley in Kunjerab Mountains of northern Karakoram. The members were Katarzyna Karwecka-Wielicka (Poland), Frank Gasser (Italy), Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland, leader) and Janusz Majer (Poland). The Koksil Valley was first explored by a Visser᾽s couple from Netherlands in 1925. After having crossed Chapchingal Pass, they headed southwards and, through Ghunjerab Valley, reached the Shimshal Valley. At present, this trail (with certain changes) is a trekking route recommended i.a.by the Lonely Planet guidebook. In the year 2000, a Pakistani guide Karim Hayat began a search of one of side valleys of the Koksil Valley marked on the Jerzy Wala᾽s map – Third Koksil Glacier. Up till now, he guided a few Austrian trekking groups to this valley. He also climbed several times a peak 5717 m (Jacky Chhish). Karim Hayat has organized our and Austrian expeditions in 2011 too. In 2003 the Third Koksil Glacerier was visited by Bernard Vaucher and his Pakistan friend Ishaq Ali. They reached the Peak 5,717 (Jacky Chhish) We reached this valley on 8th August 2011. The Austrian team led by Harry Grun had been active there for two weeks. The Austrians Markus Gschwendt on 4.8.2011 and Ulli Fechter and Birgit Walk on 6.8.2011 had already conquered Koksil Sar I (6,176meters). During our stay in the valley, they climbed two more almost six-thousand peaks: Koksil Sar II (Markus Gschwendt on 10.8.2011) and Koksil Sar III (Brigitte Hantusch and Klaus Adler) Itinerary and Activity 8th August: Having departed from Sost in the morning, we reached the last Police checkpoint before Khunjerab Pass at KKH near the outlet of the Koksil Valley (4,100meters) around midday. After fourhours march, we gathered with porters to a place of our base camp at 4,650m. 9th August: Rest day. In the afternoon, we ascended about 300 meters for acclimatization. 10th August: We set a camp – two tents at 5.235 m. (Five hours march from base camp to the first section on a moraine, then the final part on a glacier). Frank Gasser and I returned to base camp, while Wielicki couple stayed overnight in this camp. 11th August: Wielicki couple descended to base camp. In the evening, we had a farewell meeting with the Austrians. 12th August: In the morning, the Austrians left base camp. Frank Gasser and Janusz Majer reached the upper camp. In the evening, Katarzyna and Krzysztof Wielicki joined them. On the 13th, all of them wanted to climb Koksil Sar II. Bad weather onset and it much snowed at night.. 48

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13th August: Early in the morning, we descended to the base camp in fog. Porters carried down the equipment from the upper camp to the base camp. 14th August: In the morning, it sleeted in the base camp. We marched up the valley seeking for accesses to side valleys marked on the Jerzy Wala᾽s map: First Koksil Glacier and Second Koksil Glacier. We found that it was not easy to access to moraine of the Second Koksil Glacier. Fog and low cloud prevented us from passing through the whole valley. We returned to the base camp. 15th August: With help of porters, we set an advance camp (two tents) on the First Koksil Glacier at 4,750m after about five hours marching from the base camp. In the afternoon, Frank Gasser and Krzysztof Wielicki went to the upper plateau of the glacier in about 2.5 hours and came back to the tent in the evening. 16th August: Snowfall and fog for the whole day. In the evening, the weather got better. We decided to start at night. 17th August: At night, it continued to snow. The snow stopped at midnight. Frank Gasser, Katarzyna and Krzysztof Wielicki left the bivouac place at 1:00 a.m. At day, they ascended three 5,000m summits ranging on the ridge sharing the Chinese-Pakistani border. The climbs were the first ascents. Janusz Majer left the bivouac place at 7:00 a.m. and, after reaching the upper part of the glacier, he took a series of photos of surrounding mountains. 18th August: At night, there were more snowfalls. In the morning, we returned to the base camp. Porters helped us to transport the equipment to the base camp. 19th August: In the morning, we descended to KKH and we reached Passu by bus on the same day. During 12 days stay in the mountains we visited two glaciers: (1) Third Koksil Glacier (2) First Koksil Glacier – probably, we were the first to explore the latter one. A team of Krzysztof Wielicki stood atop three virgin snow-covered summits of 5,000meters. We took a series of photos of the vicinity of the glacier, which must be much informative. Two beautiful six-thousand meters summits could be challenging goals for future ambitious expeditions to open mixed climbing routes on great walls. Literatury: 1. Dr Ph. C. Visser und Jenny Visser-Hooft Karakorum und die Angrenzenende Gebiete 1922, 1925 und 1929/30 Band I 1935 and Band II 1938 Leiden E.J. Brill 2. Markus Gschwendt Kuksil, 6152 m Pakistan: Drei Erstbestesteigungen in einer Woche O.A.Z Oct-Dec 2011

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Koksil Sar Ⅰ 6,176m (F. Gasser)

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Yawash Sar Ⅰ & Ⅱ (F. Gasser)

Upper part of the First Koksil Glacier from north (J. Majer)

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Yawash Sar Ⅰ 6,258m (J. Majer)

First Koksil Gl. & 6,072m PK (J. Majer)

K. Wielik & F. Gasser

Koksil Sar Ⅱ (2) (F. Gasser)

Koksil Sar Ⅱ (1) (F. Gasser) 53

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KIMIKAZU TATSUO (TIM) SAKAMOTO INOUE

TheExploration First Ascent2011 of Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805m of Hidden Virgin Peaks Autumn theofKangri Garpo EastIndian Mountains, Tibet Lenak2009 Nala Expedition and Giabul to Nala Zanskar South, Himalaya

Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng

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In 2009, we explored Reru Valley in Zanskar and could find many unknown virgin peaks in this area. We presumed that there might be other hidden valleys in Zaskar South of the Indian Himalaya, which no mountaineers had ever explored to identify the unknown mountains. I contacted Mr. Harish Kapadia, one of the leading explorers of the Himalayan Club and asked him whether any exploration record about Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala had been reported or not. He kindly replied to me that he had never heard any exploration record in these valleys. We planned to send an expedition to explore Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala in summer of 2010. But unfortunately, at night of August 5th when we arrived at Delhi, the awful landslide disasters were caused by the sudden cloudburst in Ladakh. We were so surprised to know on TV that many people died and there were still lots of missing people, and that many houses and bridges were destroyed. We decided immediately to give up our expedition under such a chaos of the miserable disasters and informed our decision to Mr. Tsewang Yongphel, President of our tours operation company "Hidden Himalaya", who luckily escaped from the disasters. As a second challenge, we went to Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala during August 4th ~ September 15th, 2011, to explore the unknown and untrodden peaks with five members, Mr. Akira Taniguchi, Mr. Toshio Ito, Mr. Sachiyuki Hatta, Mr. Mitsuhiko Okabe and me, the leader Mr. Kimikazu Sakamoto. We are senior expedition team with 70 ~ 73 years old members. There are many mountains in Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala, 15 peaks over 6000m, 10 peaks of 5900m, 8 peaks of 5800m and 15 peaks of 5700m. We put the tentative mountain names like L1, L2 and L3 to mountains of Lenak Nala and G1, G2 and G3 to Giabul Nala mountains on our Outline Map, so that we may avoid confusion in our identification of the mountains. In order to get easier identification of many unknown mountains in Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala, we got a lot of Google Earth 3D photographs and put the identification labels on the photos. We arrived at Delhi in the morning of August 5th by TG323 and spent three days, visiting IMF (Indian Mountaineering Foundation) Head Office and having half day sightseeing in Delhi. On August 7th, we moved to Leh by the morning flight from Delhi. We were surprised to find the town of Leh and the nearby area were already almost recovered from the previous year landslide disasters, with newly constructed buildings and private houses. We stayed in Leh for two days during August 7th and 8th, for shopping and visiting Central Institute of Buddhism Studies, Tibetan Children School in Choklamsar and etc. After three days car tour from Leh, we finally reached Padam on August 11th via Hanu and Dah, Kargil, Sanku and Pensi La. In Padam, we enjoyed Sani Gompa Festival on August 12 and started our trekking on August 13th to Shanka, the entrance for Lenak Nala.

1. Padam - Shanka : August 13th : 10:50/Padam - 14:20/Dorzong (3803m, N33-17.28.6, E-77-01-00.9). After we visited Tsewang's mother at Hongmet near Karsha Gompa in the morning, we left Padam before noon. The construction of traffic road between Padam and Darcha via Singo La has been proceeded by BRO (Board of Road Organization)in these several years. In 2007 when we explored Reru Valley, the traffic road available for car was opened only up to Reru Village. But now, we could reach Dorzong by mini-bus. Two horsemen and 10 hoses should come to this small village Dorzong in the afternoon. But one horseman called " Big Tenzing" with 7 horses did not show up on that day. August 14th : 7:30/Dorzong - 12:00/Tsetan (3800m, N33-14-56.6, E77-03-58.3). Big Tenzing did not come to Dorzong in the morning. We hired an extra horseman with 3 horses and 55

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went to Tsetan. It was 6.30pm in the evening when Big Tenzing and 7 horses arrived at Tsetan. Our guide Tsewang got angry and made the heavy complain to him. August 15th : 7:20/Tsetan - 9:25/Kalbox - 10:15/Zamthang - 15:45/Testa (3968m, N33-10-41.5, E7710-06.3). We could see again the long attractive mendan and the wonderful Rock Painting at Zamthang. When I lived in South Africa during 1987 ~ 1993, I could often see Rock Painting by Bushmen in Drakensberg area when I went there for mountaineering. August 16th : Rest day at Testa (Rainy and cloudy day.). August 17th : 6:40/Testa - 7:40/Kuru - 15:30/.Shanka (4234m, N33-04-51.6, E77-09-90.4). We finally arrived at Shanka which is the entrance village to Lenak Nala. Shanka is the small village with only four houses and about 20 people. Lenak Nala was the strong river with rapid stream water. There was the good bridge to cross from right side to left side for pasturing Yaks.

2. Exploration of Lenak Nala : August 18th : 7:40/Shanka - 9:20/Grazing Ground -12:30/Camping Ground (4519m, N33-06-50.8, E77-06-45.7). We could see the very open and wide Lenak Nala from Shanka village. We crossed the bridge to the left side of Lenak Nala from the village and enjoyed pleasant walking on the green meadows. We found many nice grazing grounds where Yaks were enjoying their lives. Looking the attractive rock mountain P5665 (L1) on our right side, we came to the wonderful place with small pond in the pasture. We found Yak Hut on the big and flat grazing ground, but there was no pure water. We decided to set up our camping site at the next pasture which had good clean water stream. From this camping site, we could see the very colorful mountain P5837 (L2). August 19th : 8:20/CS - 10:30/Junction of left branch and right branch of Lenak Nala (4620m, N3306-47.6, E77-04-55.3) - 12:30/CS. We had a very short walk to the junction of left branch and right branch of Lenak Nala to check the available route to the right branch. There was the water fall in the right branch about 300m above the junction. But, we judged that it was possible for us to use horses to carry up our baggage on the right side grassy slope to the higher plateau. There were many beautiful flowers between the camping site and the junction, including blue poppies. For acclimatization, we stayed at the same camping site on this day. I climbed up the back yard hill up to 4780m and could see in the right branch of Lenak Nala P6020 (L8) and Skilma Kangri (5970m?) which was climbed by Britain Expedition in the autumn of 2009. August 20th : 7:10/CS - 8:10/Junction of left branch and right branch - 11:30/Lenak Nala BC (4718m, N33-06--09.4, E77-3-59.7). We intended to set up our Lenak Nala Base Camp around 4830m. But, our horsemen unloaded our baggage at the lower altitude, insisting that there were no green glasses for feeding horses. It was my big mistake as expedition leader. I should have ordered our horsemen to carry up our baggage up to about 4800m just before the glacier tongue, allowing them to go down with their horses to the lower glassy place. August 21st : 7:10/Lenak Nala BC - 14:00/Lenak Nala Glacier 5191m (N33-05-01.8, E-77-00-58.0) - 19:00/Lenak Nala BC. Today is the exciting day for us to explore several untrodden peaks over 6000m in Lenak Nala 56

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Glacier. Soon after leaving our Base Camp, we could see the beautiful snow peak mountain P6070 (L15) and the big rock wall mountain P6180 (L14) on our left side. The beautiful elegant mountain P6070 (L15) can be called as Prince of Lenak or Lenak Kangri. The big rocky mountains maybe is King of Lenak. We climbed up the moraine and saw the pyramidal peak P5975 (G3) in the glacier of P6070 (L15). We climbed up several moraine hills with unstable stones and reached the glacier. For safety sake, we walked on the glacier with tight rope. On our right side, we could see the rocky front mountain of P6080 (L13) and the snowy main peak of P6080 (L13) over the moraine. When we passed the west end of P6180 (L14), we could see P6128 (R33) which is the border mountain between Reru Valley and Lenak Nala. Just before P6180 (R33), there was anothher rock mountain P6054 (R32) which looks rather tough mountain to climb. Time was already 2:00 pm. We decided to go down to BC, as we were afraid we could not reach our BC before sunset as we are old age slow walkers. We struggled in walking down unstable moraine and reached BC at 7:00 pm, being exhausted. On this day, we could recognize five unknown 6000m peaks, P6070 (L15), P6180 (L14), P6080 (L13), P6128 (R33) and P6054 (R32). August 22nd : Rest day at Lenak Nala BC. We had rest as we were so tired on the previous day. It was my regret that I made the mistake as leader in setting up our base camp at the lower place than expected altitude. If we could not come down to Base Camp before sunset, it would be dangerous for our elderly mountaineers. August 23rd : 6:10/Lenak Nala BC - 7:30/Junction of left and right branch - 8:55/Plateau of right branch (4757m) - 12:00/Lenak Nala Right Branch Base Camp 5040m, M33-07-37.6, E77-04-06.8). We walked on the right side of Lenak Nala and reached the junction of left and right branch. It was rather easy walk for us to go up on the grassy slope on the right side of the river, looking the water fall on our left side. Then, we went up on the right side of several moraines in Lenak Nala Right Branch. After crossing the stream of the right branch to the left, we reached our camp site near Glacier Lake. August 24th : 6:50/Lenak Nala Right Branch BC - 9:20/Glacier 5245m (N33-07-18.1, E77-03-06.1) - 12:00/BC. We went to 1st Glacier of Lenak Nala right branch. Over the glacier lake, we could see P6020 (L8) and P6165 (L10) which was protected by steep icy wall. After walking on the moraine, we saw the rocky mountain P6140 (L9) in the right side of 1st glacier. On our left side, there was P6045 (L11) which had icy steep wall. As we could see four unknown 6000m peaks, we went down to our BC because the weather was getting worse. August 25th : 7:25/Lenak Nala Right Branch BC - 9:10/Junction of left and right branch -12:00/ Lenak Nala Camping Ground (4519m, N33-06-50.8, E77-06.45.7). As we could see four 6000m peaks in the right branch of Lenak Nala which we expected, we decided to go down the right branch and to move to Giabul Nala. As the lenak Nala near junction was so rapid with much water, we crossed the stream safely on the horse together with horseman. On the afternoon, we took rest and relaxed.

3. Exploration of Giabul Nala August 26th : 7:30/Lenak Nala Camping Ground - 10:20/Junction with Giabul Nala - 12:00/Opposite 57

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Namkha Tokpo (4254m, N33-03-29.9, E77-07-39.3). As there are many branches in Giabul Nala, we put our tentative names to two big branches. We decided to give the name of Namkha Tokpo to the biggest and long branch which has three 6000m peaks, P6005 (G18), P6060 (G20) and P6165 (G22). Sachi Tokpo was given to the next big branch which has two 6000m peaks, P6078 (G14) and P6005 (G18). We walked down to the bridge at Shanka village and crossed over the small hill to enter into Giabul Nala. This river is bigger and wider than Lenak Nala and was the very rapid with much water. It seemed to be impossible for us to cross Giabul Nala. We proceeded on the right side bank of Giabul Nala and saw several Yak Huts. Many Yaks were enjoying eating glasses on both sides of the grazing grounds. At one place, we could not walk along side the river and climbed up the steep cliff and traversed about 300 meters on the right side slope. The rocky mountain P5865 (G21) was located at the junction of Namkha Tokpo. We pitched our tent on the other side of Namkha Tokpo. In the evening, several young girls were riding on the horses to take care Yaks. Our young kitchen boys were so excited and trying to talk with them over the wide river. August 27th : 7:10/CS - 10:30/The other side of P5935 (G19) - 12:20/Giabul Nala Base Camp (4409m, N33-02-41.0, E77-01-23.0). We walked on the right side of wide and open Giabul Nala, saying Namaste to many Yaks. We saw the very challenging peak P5935 (G19) stood on the left side of the river. This peak is the very sharp peak with rock and ice and looks difficult to climb. We set up our Giabul Nala Base Camp just opposite P5935 (G19). At the junction of the left glacier and right glacier of Giabul Nala, there was the rock mountain P5686 (G8). Two high mountains with snow were seen over P5686 (G8). According to the map, there should be P5700 (G7) and P5754 (G6), but these mountains looked too high, maybe over 6000m. In the afternoon, Mr. Ito and Mr. Okabe made reconnaissance up to the glacier tongue and found the possible route to climb up the rocky hill on the right side of the water fall. August 28th : 7:20/Giabul Nala BC - 9:00/Glacier tongue - 11:30/Giabul Nala BC. We wanted to get into the left glacier of Giabul Nala to see two unknown peaks P6014 (G11) and P6078 (G14). As it was impossible for us to cross over the rapid stream before glacier tongue, we tried to climb up the icy moraine cliff accumulated with many unstable small stones and then to traverse to the left glacier. I climbed up this unstable moraine cliff and thought we could reach the top without so much difficulty. But our guide and horsemen shouted me I should go down, insisting that it was too risky and dangerous because of falling stones on the unstable moraine cliff. As the weather was not so good with too much black cloud, I decided to follow their advice and give up exploring the left glacier. It was a regret that we lost our chance to see the unknown peaks P6014 (G11) and P6078 (G14) in the left glacier. August 29th : Rain. Rest at BC. On the afternoon, our guide, kitchen staffs and horsemen constructed the wonderful stone bridge over the rapid stream of the water fall, so that we might cross the river to the left side of Giabul Nala. It was the miracle and splendid work. August 30th : 7:10/Giabul Nala BC - 7:40/Stone Bridge - 7:50/Junction to Sachi Tokpo -9:45/4595m in Sachi Tokpo - 12:20/4746m (N33-01.16.0, E77-01.21.0) - 15:45/Junction of Sachi Tokpo & Giabul Nala - 17:45/Grazing Ground CS (4320m, N33-02-40.8, E77-03-42.9). 58

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Only five expedition members are going to explore Sachi Tokpo to identify P6078 (G14) and P6005 (G18). Our guide, kitchen staffs and horsemen are going down on Giabul Nala to set up our camping site near Grazing Ground. We crossed the hand-made stone bridge, using rope for safety sake to avoid our slipping down in to the rapid stream. After the stone bridge, we walked down on the left side bank of Giabul Nala. Sachi Tokpo had many waves of the steep moraines with unstable stones. We could see P5720 (G15) and P5895 (G16) at T-junction of Sachi Tokpo. After climbing up one steep moraine hill, another big moraine was waiting for us. We were struggling in climbing up many moraine hills. P6078 (G14) and P6005 (G18) can be observed only from T-junction. But, T-junction was still very far. It was already 12:20 pm. As we had to walk another 400~500m to reach T-junction, we decided to go down in order to reach our next camping site before sunset. It was our big regret to miss these two unknown 6000m peaks in Sachi Tokpo. And, we realized how our walking pace was so slow because of our old age. We had to cross over Sachi Tokpo at the junction with Giabul Nala. Even branch river like Sachi Tokpo was the rapid stream with much water. We crossed Sachi Tokpo with rope to avoid any kind of risks. Our guide Tsewan came to the junction, in much anxious of our safety. August 31st : 7:20/Giabul Nala Grazing Ground - 10:45/Yak Hut near Junction with Namkha Tokpo - 11:30/Namkha Tokpo Camping Site (4270m, N33-03-09.6, E77-07-15.7) We visited Yak Hut near the junction with Namkha Tokpo. The kind woman entertained us with very delicious home made Yak yogurt. She explained that six women selected from each family take care about 200 ~ 300 village Yaks for six days. Then another team with six women succeed next turn. I asked her what their husbands are doing while the women are working hard for grazing Yaks. "Your husbands are drinking Roksi and gambling cards while their wives are working hard ?" She nodded and was laughing out. She kindly gave us her information that there is the good Yak trail on the left side of Namkha Tokpo. September 1st : 7:20/Namkah Tokpo CS - 7:50/Crossing Namkha Tokpo - 11:30/Namkha Tokpo Base Camp(4620m, N33-01.01.0, E77-06-53.1) - 13:35/BC - 14:15/Second junction (4750m) - 14:40/ BC. We crossed Namkha Tokpo on horse together with horseman, as the stream was so rapid even in the early morning. There was the good and clear Yak trail on the left side of Namkha Tokpo. After passing the first small branch from the left side, Namkha Tokpo became very wide. Our guide and horsemen decided to set up our Namkha Tokpo Base Camp on the right side at the foot of the grassy cliff. We agreed to their opinion though we wished to go up higher, as they insisted there was no good spot for camping. We crossed the strong stream on horse to the right side and set up our Base Camp. In the afternoon, Mr.Ito, Mr.Okabe and I had short hiking up to 4750m, just before another branch under P5840 (G25) which is very attractive mountain. September 2nd : 6:40/Namkha Tokpo BC - 7:20/4750m - 12:00/Foot of P6115(G22)(5075m -N3259-30.2, E77-05-18.6) - 16:00/Namkha Tokpo BC. From the foot of P5840 (G25), we could see the overwhelming mountain P6115 (G22) at the T-junction. But, many up and down moraines were so strenuous. Though we were very exhausted, finally we reached the T-junction just under big rock wall of P6115 (G22). From that point, P6005(G18) came to our eyes. And, we could see P6060 (G20) at the right side corner of Namkha Tokpo. All of us were very happy to see these 3 hidden peaks over 6000m in Giabul Nala area, in addition to 9 unknown peaks over 6000m in Lenak Nala area, total 12 peaks all of which maybe untrodden virgin peaks. We shook hands and hugged each other, celebrating our successful exploration in Zanskar 59

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South. We walked down slowly and slowly, recalling our successful exploration though we were very tired. Our guide Tsewam came up to welcome us, being anxious about our return. September 3rd : 7:08/Namkha Tokpo BC - 9:40/Junction with Giabul Nala - 13:00/Tangso (4133m, N33-04.-37.3, E77-11-25.8). We enjoyed the easy walking down on the good Yak trail to the junction with Giabul Nala. There were many Yaks on the wide and open grassy natural pasture in Giabul Nala. We arrived at Tangso after lunch. Tangso was a beautiful and wonderful village with big pastures and barley fields, with twelve houses and about sixty village people. We paid our visit to Public School in Tangso and met the teachers. They said that they were teaching 41 students from 5 years old to 18 years old, with six teachers. We spent seventeen days for exploration of Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala from Shanka to Tangso. We did not see any mountaineers or trekkers and met only several women who were taking care their Yaks. These areas are the wonderful places with the attractive mountains and the beautiful natures, without any garbage like plastic bags, beer cans and glass bottles. September 4th was a rest day at Tangso.

4. Return trip to Leh via Singola and Tso Kar We moved to the foot of Gumburanjan (5320m)on September 5th and went up to Singola Base. Camp next day on September 6th. We crossed over Singola (5045m) and walked down the long way to Ramjyak on September 7th. The camping site of Ramjyak was so messy with too much garbage same as four years ago. As we could not endure such messy camping site, we cleaned up Ramjyak Camping Site with our guide, kitchen staffs and horsemen. Our young kitchen staffs constructed the big garbage storage with many big stones to avoid future miserable situation. Any campers will be able to burn the garbage in this stone storage with kerosene after camping. When we went down to Zanskar Sumdo on September 8th, we were so surprised to find the shovel cars were working to make new traffic road to Singola. Four years ago in 2007, the traffic road was opened up to Palamo. We went further down to Tukpachan and stayed two nights on September 8th and 9th to wait for our car. We took a car from Tukpachan on September 10th and stayed one night at Tso Kar. Next day on September 11th, we came back to Leh and enjoyed hot shower which we could not take more than one month. After two days stay in Leh, we took flight to Delhi on September 13th and came back to Japan by Thai Air flight, leaving Delhi 23:30 on September 14th and arriving Osaka via Bangkok next day on September 15h. We could really enjoy the splendid expedition in Zanskar South and were very happy to have the successful exploration in Lenak Nala and Gibul Nala. We were very lucky, because of good weather conditions and also the good support of our reliable guide and efficient kitchen staffs. We hope young climbers will come to Lenak Nala or Giabul Nala to try their first ascent to the attractive virgin peaks which we found in this exploration. P.S. Any person who wants to climb mountain in Zanskar, Ladakh or other mountain Areas in Indian Himalaya should submit Climibing Application to Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) according to IMF regulations, even for the mountains lower than 6,000m. It is a big regret that there are some expedition teams to have climbed the Mountains in Zanskar without any proper procedure.

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Google Earth Photo of Lenak Nala

Google Earth photo of Giabul Nala 61

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P5975 (G3) in the left branch of Lenak Nala

P6180 (L14) in the left branch of Lenak Nala

From left, P6070 (L15) and P6180 (L14) in the left Branch of Lanak Nala 62

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P6080 (L13) in the left branch of Lenak Nala

P6128 (R33) in the left branch of Lenak Nala

The right mountain, P6165 (L10) in the right branch of Lanak Nala

P6070 (L15) on the left branch of Lenak Nala

P6140 (L9) in the right branch of Lenak Nala

P6045 (L11) in the right branch of Lenak Nala 63

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P6005 (G18) in Namkha Tokpo of Giabul Nala

P6060 (G20) in Namkha Tokpo of Giabul Nala

P5840 (G25) in Namakha Tokpo of Giabul Nala

P5935 (G19) on Giabul Nala 64

P6115 (G22) in Namkha Tokpo of Giabul Nala

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KAZUO HOSHI

Two Peaks in the Headwaters of Karcha Nala JAC Tokai to the Indian Himalayas The Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club (hereinafter described as JAC Tokai) conducted 11 expeditions to the Indian Himalayas since 1988, mainly in Ladakh, Lahore and Spiti areas, and ascended 15 summits over 6,000 meters high. Among them, the sevem summits were first climbed. As an event to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Tokai Section, we organized Summer 2011 Expedition to scale two peaks in the Indian Himalayas. We were touched by a photo of fantastic snowy twin peaks that the 2009 Expedition had brought back. Thus we made a plan to climb the unnamed peak (6,105 m) near Karcha Nala. Two peaks are located south of Karcha Parbat (6,271m) of which approach is up on Karcha Nala above. We obtained a climbing permit from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Karcha Nala belongs to Kullu administrative district of the State of Himachal Pradesh, but an access route to get there is only from Batal in Lahul administrative district. Karcha Nala is a small river about 17 km long at nearly N32Â° 20'. It joins Chandra River at a point of 1.5km south of Batal.Karcha Parbat (6,271 m) and Fluted peak (6,139 m) are dominant on the north side of the river. Four glaciers fan out to the south of the river in length of 4~10km. We tentatively named these glaciers as A, B, C and D glacier from the east. These glaciers feed water to the stream of Karcha Nara. Shepherds and a flock of sheep are seen nearby Karcha Nala. The wide glaciers are separated by ridges. Slopes of both sides of the ridges are pastures for grazing sheep. Side moraine is covered with gravel. There are 6,060m and 5,968m peaks in the headwaters of the A glacier, 6,105m peak in the headwaters of the B glacier, 6,066m and 5,945m peaks in the headwaters of the C glacier, and 6,010m peak in the headwaters of the D glacier respectively. These peaks range from northeast to southwest. Steep rocky ridges of the east side ridge line descend straightly down to the Gyundi River. The D glacier is the largest and its south headwaters borders on the Lower Bara Shigri Glacier. (Reference) Rough map: LEOMAN MAPS (Sheet 5, 6) 1:200,000 Contour map: Indian Survey Office map 1:50,000 Russian map 1:200, 000/1:100,000 Panoramic photograph: H.J Vol.44 (1986-1987) India party of Karcha Parbat Google Earth 2009: photo from altitude 20.42 km Ascent of Unnamed 6,066m 2009 JAC Tokai 10th Expedition first planned to attempt Karcha Parbat 6,271m having studied a record of the Indian ascent in 1991. We departed from Manali by jeeps on June 30 and reached Batal (4,000m) on July 2. We further went up to a place at 4,600m of South Dakka Glacier for acclimatization and once returned to Batal. The expedition left Batal for base camp on July 6. We went along a dry riverbed on the north side of Karcha Nala. Then we traversed a fragile cliff and passed big snow bridges heading to the south side of Karch Nala. After crossing a small river twice, we established base camp at 4,400m. From the Base Camp we found no snow on the ridge toward the summit of Karcha Parbat, and 65

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realized that it was difficult to reach the top of Karcha Parbat because of lack of water. We had to change our target from Karcha Parbat to another peak in the upper Karcha Nala. Camp 1 was set up at 4,700m on July 13. We ascended to a craggy glacier (tentatively named as C Glacier) in the south side of Camp 1 and found a beautiful snowy peak beyond snowfield. This peak became a new target. Camp 2 was established on the C glacier at 5,200m on July 17. Three Japanese members and four high altitude porters (HAPs) started from Camp 2 at 5:30 am on July 18. Tsuneo Suzuki (leader 74 years old), Naoyuki Adachi (66) and one HAP retired at 5,400m because of deep snow. Ritusya Matsubara (75) and three HAPs carried on climbing of a steep and deeply snowed slope and finally stood atop snow-clad peak of 6066m at 2:30pm. Regrettably no panorama could be viewed from the top because of fog. We gathered at the base camp on July 20 and returned to Manali. This beautiful peak would hopefully be called as Ache which means a daughter in Lahul language. First Ascent of Chemma Peak 6,105m 2011 The expedition members from JAC Tokai were an elderly group of an average age of 65 years old. They were still not loosing passion for explorations. `Period of expedition was 40 days from July 15 to August 23. Main objective was to climb a stunning dome-shaped peak in the headwaters of Karch Nara. 66

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Leader: Kazuo Hoshi (60) Members: Yutaka Shinohara (72) YHitoshi Ishii (68) Katsumi Kuze (63) Liaison Officer: Gajendra Deshmukh (35) The party started from Manali:19 July: Five members and a liaison officer in Delhi moved to Manali (2,000m). 22 July: All staff members (instructor, HAP, and kitchen staff) gathered in Manali and necessary preparation such as purchasing foods and checking gear and equipment was made. 26 July: Although it heavily rained and there was a landslide at the Rohtang Pass 3,978m, they departed to Rohtang Pass (3,978m) by three 4WDs at 3:00pm and arrived at Chhatru (3,330m) at 8:00pm. 27 July: They reached Batal (3,980m) in the afternoon and set up tents. Strong ultraviolet ray and dry wind bothered them. They went up to Chandratar glacial lake (4,200m), a suitable site with fascinating view for altitude adaptation. Setting up base camp / Camp1 / Camp2 / Camp3:30 July: Horses caravan of horses headed to base camp along Karcha Nala. They marched on a dry riverbed of the west side of Karcha Nala, and then traversed a fragile cliff and passed snow bridges to the east side of Karcha Nala. After having crossed the dangerous stream five times, base camp was set up on a dry riverbed at 4,400m in the afternoon. The base camp was located closely to a river streaming down from the headwaters of Mt.Karcha Parbat. The expedition members were in good health conditions suffering from no high-altitude sickness. 3 August: Camp 1 was set up at 4,700m. We advanced to e craggy glacier of the north side of Camp 1 and found an enchanting snow-crested peak beyond snowfield, which was targeted for climbing. Camp 2 was set up at the snout of glacier B (5,250m) on 6 August. 6 August: Camp 2 was set up at the snout of the glacier B (5,250m). They further went up and looked for location of Camp 3 (5,550m). A route on the north east face was chosen as the best for climbing, which undoubtedly promised the success. 7 - 8 August: They carefully avoided falling rocks and detoured hidden crevasses. Oxygen cylinders were in services for safety. It began to snow at night. Snow continued to fall on August 8 Approach to the North East Ridge:9 August: Snow conditions seemed good though it was clouded and there was no visibility. At 7:30am, we started climbing a steep and deeply snowed slope. After one hour, we reached a snowfield. There were many crevasses here and there. The oldest member, Shinohara (72) was slow but steady. Sky soon cleared up and strong sunshine annoyed us. They stood atop 6,105m at 11:45. The top was narrower than Google Earth image. To their regret panorama pictures could not be taken as narrow space didáž˝nt allow to do it. They returned Camp 2 at 2:00pm. Heavy Snowfall at Base Camp and Escape from Batal:10 August: They descended to base camp. All the members were in good health. 13 August: The weather changed worse. It began to snow. Neither horses nor a mail runner came up from Batal. 67

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15 August: It began again to snow. They descended to Batal leaving tents, all gear and supplies in base camp. Unexpected heavy snow and rain stopped a road passage along Chandra River. After all, they decided to descend to Kaza (3,550m) through Kun Zum La (4,550m) Pass in the 17th morning. Three 4WDs were hired 18 August: They managed to get a permit to go through Kaza. At noon we left for Rekong Peo by 4WDs and safely passed a Sumdo check point. They arrived at a resort town of Kalpa in midnight. They returned to Manari at 2:00am on 20 August. The gear and supplies were carried from base camp to Manari. Official Recognition of the First Ascent:The Indian Mountaineering Federation officially recognized the first ascent of the summit which the 2011 Expedition succeeded in climbing and named it as Chemma Peak.:-

Unnamed peak 6,066m north face â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2009 Expedition

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Chemma Peak 6,105m north face – 2011 Expedition

Ascending to the top from C3 below

On the summit of Chemma Peak 69

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TATSUO ROGER (TIM) PAYNE INOUE

The First Ascent LopchininFeng (KG-2) Valley 6,805m New Routes andofMystery Thangsing Autumn 2009 Expedition to the Kangri Garpo East Mountains, Tibet West Sikkim Between 16 Oct and 3 Nov 2011 David Kinsella (AUS), Arun Mahajan (IND/USA) and Roger Payne (UK/CH) explored mountains on the east side of the Thangsing Valley in West Sikkim, and climbed three summits as alpine-style day routes. This report mentions other climbs on nearby peaks, which have improved an understanding of the earliest ascents dating back to 1883. The Thangsing Valley is the route of the popular trek to Gocha La, which enjoys magnificent views of Kanchenjunga. The area explored in 2011 is just to the south of Lamalamani (c.5650m), and above the Arralang Valley. Julie-Ann Clyma and I had made an initial reconnaissance of this area on a trekking trip in Oct 2004, then returned in March 2005 to make the first ascent of Lamalamani (with Kunzang Bhutia and Saga Rai of the Sikkim Amateur Mountaineering Association - SAMA) and the first alpine-style ascent of Tinchenkang (6,010m), which we understood to be the third ascent of that mountain. Bahini Group We called the group of peaks explored in 2011 the Bahini Group, and named individual summits to reflect the character of each peak. These peaks are not shown on the 1:150,000 Sikkim Himalaya map (published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research 2006) and as far as we could ascertain, none of them had names or had been previously climbed. We hope the nomenclature we have used (see below) is acceptable locally, regionally and to any interested organizations. With our base camp at Thangsing, we established a comfortable advanced camp at around 4800m below a prominent rock tower we called Chowkidar. On 23 Oct we made an acclimatization reconnaissance to the col between Lamalamani and Prabha Behin (an area I first explored in 2005, but did not see much then because of cloudy conditions). Tridesh (c. 5,100m) was our first peak, which is just west of the Bahini Group, and was climbed on 27 Oct by Kinsella, Mahajan, and Payne. Initially we descended from our camp to reach the peak, which we climbed via its northeast flank on snowed up rock (II-III, PD+). From the summit we could see that the east and south side of the mountain had extensive rock faces, and we had good views of the lakes below at Lam Pokri. Soneri Behin (c. 5,250m) was our second peak, which was climbed on 28 Oct by Kinsella, Mahajan, and Payne (also PD+). We initially retraced our route of the previous day, then headed up to a hanging valley with a very small glacier which we ascended to reach the east ridge via some very unstable rock. The ridge itself was more stable with enjoyable rock steps (II). From the summit we retraced our route down the ridge, then descended the snow couloir (II) on the north side to make a circular route back to Chowkidar camp. The northwest ridge of Soneri Behin includes another lower summit we called Kanchi Behin, and some remarkable rock towers we called Churi. Prabha Behin (c. 5,500m) was the third peak and was climbed on 29 Oct by Mahajan and Payne. It is the highest in the group, and is probably the summit on the Swiss map marked as 5,480m (but felt 70

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somewhat higher). The ascent was via a snow/ice crest (III) in the broad northwest couloir, with a traverse at its top to the left to reach the crest of the north ridge. The crest of the ridge is mixed and exposed with some technical rock climbing (IV, AD+/D-). The summit block is small and required an athletic leap to reach (and which turned out to be unnecessary as an easy ramp comes up from the south side). The connecting ridge to the lower summits to the west looked loose initially, but the lower summits look attractive, in particular Kali Behin, which seen from the west is an impressive black tower. Lamalamani and Jopuno Just north of the Bahini Group, in spring 2010 a UK/USA team led by Geoff Cohen climbed a new route on the North summit of Lamalamani (Cohen came to the conclusion, as we did in 2005, that the unclimbed South summit is higher). Cohen᾽s team also visited the cols on both the south and north sides of Lamalamani, and made an ascent of the prominent rock summit in the north col. The team also planned a new route on Jopuno (5,936m), but instead repeated the elegant and technical West Ridge to the top of the granite (which was first climbed in challenging weather in March 2008 by an American team led by Jason Halladay). Also on Jopuno, Julie-Ann Clyma, Hugh Sheehan and I climbed a new route on the Southwest face on 7 Nov 2009, which provided very enjoyable mixed climbing at around D. We reached the crest of the West Ridge at the top of the golden granite and followed the ridge on loose black rock and snow crests. We climbed towards a high point, which from photos of the 2008 ascent I had understood to be the summit. However, on getting close it seemed that the highest point was much further on. It was too late to continue along the ridge, so we reversed our route along the ridge with darkness arriving just as we started a sequence of abseils down the face. In 2001 Deepak Kumar Chettri, Kunzang Bhutia, and Sagar Raj climbed on the right side of the southwest face and along the south ridge of Jopuno (which was a very notable effort undertaken with minimal equipment). Having checked with them, it seems they reached a summit on the south ridge that may not be the highest point of Jopuno. WW Graham in 1883 The first claimed ascent of Jopuno was by WW Graham who described his climb in 1883 as incomparably the hardest ascent we had in the Himalaya, owing to the great steepness of the glacier work (Alpine Journal, vol xii August 1884 pp 25-52). Even though Graham seems to have been a strong climber and explorer, at the time of Graham᾽s reports some questioned the accuracy of his claims (most notably Alexander Kellas, who was a pioneer of climbing in Sikkim). Whatever Graham climbed in 1883, from my knowledge of Jopuno, I think he must have been on another peak (which perhaps eventually it may be possible to identify). Hence, as for Jopuno, until someone makes a traverse of the summit ridge, or reaches the summit on a clear day to verify the highest point, the ascent by Halladay and Josh Smith in 2008 could be the first time the highest point of the mountain had been reached. Meanwhile, what is certain, is that there are many peaks and summits in Sikkim that can be explored and climbed in alpine style, and that access can be arranged through the tourism organizations and Sikkim State authorities in Gangtok. In eight trips since 2004 to peaks in West and North Sikkim, I have enjoyed valuable assistance and great help from friends in SAMA, and Barap Bhutia and the staff of Sikkim Holidays in Gangtok. Also, the Travel Agents Association of Sikkim (TAAS) has 71

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undertaken impressive work to increase capacity and skills of service providers, and recently initiated actions to develop a structure for mountain rescue working with SAMA and the State authorities. So, you can approach organizations in Sikkim with confidence, and know that they can make the necessary arrangements for exploratory treks and expeditions. Nomenclature for Bahini Group: Bahini Sisters, Behin Sister, Chowkidar, Sentry/protector, Churi Knife, Kali Black, Kanchi Small, Prabha Radiance/shine/glow, Soneri Golden, Tridesh Three lands

Tridesh - Arun Mahajan enjoying the crest of the summit ridge, Kali Behin in the background

Prabha Behin - Arun Mahajan on the snow/ice crest during the first ascent. Koktang, Rathong and Kabru peaks in the background 72

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Bahini Group from Chowkidar Camp (A Col, B unnamed, C Prabha Behin, D unnamed, E Kali Behin, F Soneri Benin, G Churi, H Kanchi Behin)

View from Pragha Behin (F Soneri Behin, H Kanchi Behin and G Churi) 73

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Tridesh

Bahini Group Google Earth image showing ascents and peak 74

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Jopuno (A direction of 2001 ascent, B presumed line of 2008 route, C false summit, D likely highest point of Jopuno, E line of 2009 ascent)

Lamalamani - the north summit seen from Jopuno. The righthand skyline was taken during the first ascent in 2005. The face on the left was attempted by Payne and James Astill in 2009 75

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TAMOTSU TATSUO (TIM) NAKAMURA INOUE

TheAutumn First Ascent Lopchin Feng (KG-2)Tibet 6,805m 2011 of Expedition to Eastern Autumn Through 2009 Expedition to the Kangri GarpoYi’ong East Mountains, Tibetan jungle of the lower Tsangpo Tibet

Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng

Permit problems While flying from Chengdu to Lhasa in a morning you will not be able to avert your eyes from the magnificent snowy peaks with large glaciers looking like giant white dragons that are appearing peaks after peaks. Many of the more than 200 overwhelming 6,000m peaks (almost all of them remain unclimbed) with impressive and mostly unexplored, glaciers are concentrated on the both sides of The Yi᾽ong Tsangpo in Nyainqentanglha-East. The situation got worse since the Beijing Olympic in 2008 and the years 2010 and 2011 have become further sensitive and difficult for foreigners to enter eastern Tibet. In particular, it has gone from bad to worse after the 60th Anniversary Celebrations of Tibet Liberation 1951 held at Lhasa in June 2011. Qamdo Prefecture has totally closed a door to foreigners except for Rawu (Lhagu Glacier) and Midoi Glacier areas which are sightseeing spots. In Nyainchi Prefecture, foreigners have been allowed to visit towns only along the main route 318 – Sichuan-Tibet Highway. The Public Security Bureau (PSB) of the Nyaichi Prefecture has been strictly controlling and banned foreigners to approach to areas off the main route 318. Three elderly members from the Hengduan Mountains Club are Tamotsu (Tom) Nakamura 76 years old, Tsuyoshi Nagai 79, Tadao Shintani 65. The names of places written on the permit issued to us by 76

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the Nyainchi Public Securiy Bureau (PSB) were only those of towns: Lunang, Tangmai, Bomi (Pome), Midoi and Rawu along a main route 318 of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. To accomplish our objective we could not be obedient to such restriction that the PSB was imposing and we decided to enter the lower Yi᾽ong Tsangpo from Tangmai on the 16th October.

12 Days Blank Vehicle roads along the lower Yi᾽ong Tsangpo were newly constructed from the Lake Yi᾽ong to Bake village one and half years ago. On the 17th we directly went to the Bake which was originally considered as our base for explorations. However as soon as we arrived at Bake, the police ordered us to return and, for due registration, soon attend to the PSB of Bomi County administrating the police in Bake. If we had gone to the Bomi PSB, our expedition would have ended as the PSB should have never allowed us to again enter the Yi᾽ong Tsangpo.

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Facing such a crucial moment our capable Tibetan guide Awang was very much discrete, but my obsession for exploring the lower Yi᾽ong Tsangpo basin could not easily abandon our plan to unveil unknown peaks and glaciers in the region. So we did not go to Bomi. I ordered Awang to take us to the Jianpu Glacier marching up a large branch valley of Wopu. We set up our base at Wopu village. The Jiangpu Glacier is one of the largest valley type glaciers developing in the northern side of the lower Yi᾽ong Tsangpo where unknown and untrodden 6,000m peaks in Nyainqentanglha East are mostly clustered. Six days horse caravan from Wopu village brought us an invaluable outcome to access to the Juangpu Glacier and to have magnificent views of outstanding 6,000m peaks surrounding the glacier. After 12 days of secret explorations, Awang received a telephone call from his travel agent at Lhasa that the PSB in Nyainchi was nervous about three missing Japanese and that he must soon appear and report to the PSB in Nyainchi. A head of the PSB, Khamba man, strongly requested Awang to explain dayby-day details during the 12 days. Awang has an excellent talent. He made up a consistent story of the 12 days not referring to the fact that we had been far off the route 318. Awang was finally released after three times summons of the PSB. October 11: 3 Japanese members gathered at Chengdu October 13: Fly from Chengdu to Lhasa (Fine weather) October 15: Lhasa – Bayichen 3,010m, Nyainchi Prefecture capital by car (Cloudy 5ºC at 7:00 am) October 16: Bayichen – Tangmai 2,120m – Yi᾽gong 2,280m by car (Cloudy 10ºC) October 17: Yi᾽ong – Bake 2,810m – Rega 3,320m – Bake by car (Cloudy 10ºC) October 18: Bake – Wopu 2,720m in Wopu valley by car (Rain and cloudy 8ºC) October 19: Wopu, waiting for good weather (Rain and cloudy 6ºC) October 20: Wopu – C1 2,940m through Tibetan jungle by horse caravan (Cloudy 6ºC) October 21: C1 – C2 3,200m through Tibetan jungle by horse caravan (Cloudy 3ºC) October 22: C2 – lookout point 3,240m over Jiangpu Glacier (Cloudy 4ºC) October 23: C2 – lookout point over Jiangpu Glacier (Partly fine morning 1ºC) October 24: C2 – lookout point over Jiangpu Glacier – C1 (Perfectly fine morning – 4ºC) October 25: C1 – Wopu (Cloudy 5ºC) October 26: Wopu (Cloudy and rain 3ºC) October 27: Wopu – Yi᾽ong – Tangmai – Lunang 3,340m by car ( Cloudy partly fine 0ºC) October 28: Lunang – Seti La 4,500m – Bayichen (Prefectly fine morning – 5.5ºC) by car October 29: Bayichen, Guide Awang attended the Police of Nyainchi (Cloudy 2ºC) October 30: Bayichen – Nyainchi Airport – Chengdu (Cloudy 4ºC) October 31- November 1: Left Chengdu for Japan

Through a Tibetan jungle A stream of the Yi᾽ong Tsangpo was not so clear this year as normal year because of continued heavy rain. However primeval forests of large conifer trees are beautiful and gorges are breathtaking. Frank Kingdon-Ward wrote in his book “Assam Adventures” (1942 London) of his journey in 1935 that the Yi᾽ong Tsanpo gorges were more magnificent than those of the main stream, the Yarlung Tsangpo. A raging stream rushing down through the gorge is awful and spectacular. One of the objectives of our Autumn 2011 Expedition was to trace a forgotten trail from Bake to Niwu. In between there are impassable gorges which demarcate the lower and upper Yi᾽ong Tsangpo. In the past only Frank Kingdon-Ward except of few local villagers passed through this path in 1935. A monk of Bomi currently tried to go to Niwu from Bake this year, but he gave up his challenge as it was too dangerous. Nevertheless we had still a keen interest in the formidable gorges. For the second objective to explore the Jiangpu Glacier, on October 18 we set up our base at a 78

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Tibetan house in Wopu village where 11 families of Kongpo people resided. A vehicle road ended here. The house has currently been built with the local government subsidy. Wopu valley becomes narrower from the Wopu village and an exhausting Tibetan jungle begins. We organized a horse caravan of 8 horses (not mules) and 8 muleteers cum porters including a cheerful young nun. We departed from the Wopu village at 10:00am on the 20 October. The caravan soon entered a jungle and arrived at an uninhabited monastery with two Tibetan houses near-by. The trail suddenly became rocky, muddy, rough, up–down and hindered by prickly vines and fallen trees. Muleteers struggled to open trails for horses to pass through by cutting trees lying on the trail using a heavy Tibetan hatchet. One of the muleteers was kicked by his horse, fell down into a steep slope and suffered from serious casuality. The trail was often lost in small steams. Horse riding was so dangerous that we had to walk almost all the way. The caravan was harder than climbing. We camped at 2,940m (Camp 1) in a small pasture surrounded with thick forest. We marched up an annoying trail on the following day to Camp 2 at 3,200m. The caravan was more difficult than the previous day. The trail suddenly disappeared above Camp 2, which was located close to the east face of Sang Ri Mai ca. 6,000m on the left bank of the Wopu valley. The camp site was humid being surrounded with tall and dense trees, which impeded a view to the Jiangpu Glacier to north. Some of muleteers and Awang went further upwards the jungle to search for an appropriate lookout point over the Jiangpu Glacier. Both of them could find a good place at 3,240m, which had a sheer drop covered with bushes into the river bed not far from the glacier terminus. The weather did us no favor. Since the 15th October we had no fine days. Climate in the lower Yi᾽ong Tsanpo is normally unstable, but 2011 was a bit extraordinary, too many cloudy and rainy days. On the 24 October, fine weather came at last but only for a couple of hours in the morning. We rushed to the lookout point gasping through jungle with no footsteps and could be in time to have a complete view of the lower part of veiled Jiangpu Glacier and inspiring Jongpu Po Rong 6,570m in the morning sunshine. The south face of twin rock peaks dominantly soared in the headwaters of the glacier. Three upper glaciers join from northeast, north and northwest at about 4,200m and stream down southeastwards forming the lower part of the glacier. Two-third of the 8km long lower glacier is of debri-covered type. The Jiangpu Glacier, 21km long and with a surface area of 132.7km2 is the second longes t / largest glacier next to the Qiaqing Glacier in Nyaiqentanglha East. From the lookout point we could see the east faces of two challenging 6,000 m peaks, one is Sang Ri Dui 6,060m (north) and Sang Ri Mai ca. 6,000m (south) and other 5,700 – 5,800m peaks ranging to the north.

Glaciers in Nyaiqentanglha East The glaciers of Nyainqentanglha East Range are of an oceanic type. Concerning their number and surface area they are larger than those in Nyainqentanglha West where glaciers have only developed in the near vicinity of the mountain tops, while in the region of about 200 km between Lhari and Qingdou of Nyainqentanglha East, there are situated 30% of the total glacier area of the huge eastern mountain ranges. The largest glaciers of Eastern Tibet are located to the north and the north-east of the lower Yi᾽ong Tsangpo. In 1989 the Chinese Academy of Sciences carried out the first field survey and research, since then no stranger has set foot on the glacier anymore. According to “An Introduction to Glaciers in China” written in Chinese and published in 1988 by the Langzhou Institute of Glaciology and Geocyology, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, there are 2,905 glaciers with a total area of 5,895km2 in Nyainqentanglha mountain range. That corresponds to approximately 7% of the total area of the mountain range. If the 1,638km2 of adjacent Kangri Garpo are added, the total glacier area rises to 7,536km2. Thus the region ranks fourth among the twelve glacier regions in China. The total area is 1.7 times as large as that of the European Alps. Many of those glacier terminus have in small or large glacial lakes. Recent satellite photos show new birth of 79

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glacial lakes that are not even marked on the Russian topographic maps. The Yi᾽ong Tsangpo which is a sizeable tributary of the Yarlung Tsangpo (the upper Brahmaputra) joins the other tributary, the Parlung Tsangpo, at Tangmai north of the Tsangpo Great Bend and flows into the main stream of the Yarlung Tsangpso. Around here Nyaiqentanglha East range receives humid air current blowing through the Tsangpo gorge from the Bay of Bengal. This causes heavy rainfall in the mountains which fosters development of the glaciers. In valley zones annual average rain fall is more or less 1,000mm and in the high mountain zone it reached to 2,000 – 3,000mm which makes Nyainqentanglha East be the region where glaciers are mostly developing in Tibet at present. Many of glacier terminus come down to forest zones.

Main Glaciers of Nyainqentanglha Range

Nyaiqentanglha East: Main Glaciers between Lhari & Qingduo 1.Aigagong 2.Jiangpu 3.Daoge 4.Gongpu 5.Qiaqing 6.Ruoguo 7.Nalong 8.Maguokong 9.Qiabiegong 10.Zepu 80

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Yi’ong Tsangpo raging stream

Tibetan jungle, Paving trail, Wopu Valley

Wopu village, Yi’ong Tsangpo

Tibeta horse keepers at C2, Wopu Valley

Lake Yi’ong 81

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Photo of whole profile of Jongpo Po Rong S fase appears on the Cover

Aerial view-Jongpo Po Rong and Pk 6,605 suth face Nyaingentanglha East

Jiangpu Glacier and Jongpo Po Rong 6,570m south face, Wopu valley (Lower part & glacier is debri-covered.) 82

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Sang Ri Mai ca 6,000m east face seen from C2

5,790m Pk south face north of Sang Ri Dui, Wopu Valley

Sang Ri Mai (left) Dui (right) SE face, Wopu Valley

Sang Ri Dui 6,050m east face, Wopu Valley 83

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Gyala Peri 7,294m southwest face

Tiba Kangri 6,846m southwest face

Namcha Barwa 7.782m west face viewed from Seti La 4,500m 84

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TIM BOELTLER

First Ascent of Yangmolong 2011, Sichuan

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At approximately 3:30 pm on October 20, 2011 Jon Otto, Liu Yong, Su Rongqin, and Tim Boelter reached the 6,066 meter summit of Yangmolong! After three years and three attempts from different approaches, we finally reached the summit of this mountain. The weather on summit day was superb. The climbing included mixed snow, ice and rock between 50 and 70 degrees. From the moment I arrived in China my luck and perhaps the luck of the expedition was to turn for the worse temporarily. I spent the first four days in the China West Hospital in Chengdu because of an intestinal blockage. For three days I was not allowed to eat, the only nutrition came from an IV drip. By the end of the expedition I lost a total of 5 kilos in body weight. The expeditions was delayed by a week, we didn't depart for the mountain until October 10th. The two day drive turned into a four day ordeal. The delays started when were stuck for three hours in a traffic jam before the tunnel to Kangding. When the police finally instilled some order into the chaos we were able to continue, but it was very late at night now and by the time we got near Kangding the road was closed because of the massive construction project on the new dam and highway. We had to backtrack to Luding and spend the night there. The next day we continued through Kangding and up the pass to the city of Xinduqiao. Just outside of Xinguqiao our vehicle lost its clutch while caught in another traffic jam on a rough mountain road. While we were trying to move the vehicle off the road a large heavily laden dump truck lost control coming down hill and crashed into three vehicles including ours. We were able to fix vehicle enough to continue but had to spend the night in Xinduqiao. The next day we made it to Litang, but the entire highway (G318) was under construction as the road had been severely deteriorating over the past four years due to landslides, floods and poor workmanship. This construction delayed us further. After one night in Litang we continued the drive to the trailhead at the lower monastery (village of Gongba) in the eastern valley and hiked up to the upper monastery (Zere) where we spent our first night in the mountains. Our luck turned for the better from this point on. Here is a quick rundown of the trek and climb: Day One: Hike from upper (Zere) monastery to an elevation of approximately 4,950 meters, just below the 5,100 meter pass that we descended in 2010. This is a very long pass located to the north of Yangmolong and joins the eastern valley with the northern valley. Day Two: Hike up and over the 5,100 meter pass and down to basecamp at 4,880 meters. Snowed all day. Day Three: Rest day at basecamp. Spent a few hours ice climbing on the vertical glacial ice near camp. Day Four: Hiked and climbed up the north ridge (prowl) of Yangmolong to obtain our high point the year before at 5,400 meters and climbed about 35 meters higher into the first section of rock. Fixed a line and descended to make camp C1 at 5,367 meters just below rock section. Day Five: Climbed up rock (lower section) before coming to a drop off bridged by a narrow knife edge that separates the lower rock section from the short upper rock section before the glacier. We could not see this notch from our perspective at basecamp, but in one of the photos taken by the British from the eastern side you can see this separation of the ridge. I've attached their photo. We continued to climb to our high camp on the upper ridge and glacier to C2 at 5,778 meters. We reached C2 in the dark and situated it in a crevasse. 86

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Day Six: We departed C2 for the summit at approximately 10:30 am. The climb was up 50 to 70 degree snow and ice slopes. We used running belays the whole time and reached the summit at approximately 3:30 pm. After spending nearly an hour on the summit we descended back to C2 for the night. Day Seven: Descended back to basecamp for the night. Day Eight: Packed up everything and descended up and over the 5,100 meter pass and all the way out to Gongba and then drove to Batang for the night.

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East Ridge of Yangmolong (left) and Central Peak, Makara (right) (Tim Boelter)

South Face of Yangmolong seen from Lake Yamou, June (Tom Nakamura) 88

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NNE face fo Yangmolong, 2011 (Tim Boelter)

Daliu climbing NNE face, Cenral Peak, Makara (right) (Tim Boelter)

NNE face of Yangmolong (left), Central Peak (right) (Dave Wynne-Jones)

Peak 5,850m (Dave Wynne-Jones)

Lake Yamou on south side, June (Tom Nakamura)

Lake Yamou on south side, October (Tim Boelter) 89

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TATSUO JEFF (TIM) SHAPIRO INOUE

TheGrosvenor First Ascent Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805m NewofRoute 2011 – Third Ascent Autumn 2009 Expedition to the Kangri Garpo East Mountains, Tibet

It was spring 2004 and I remember feeling like a kid during winter᾽s first snow as I thumbed through Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng the latest issue of Alpinist (issue 6). Within those pages was the route description and history of Thalay Sagar, to me, one of the most strikingly beautiful alpine goddesses of all time. I was so eager to learn more and use the fine photography to fuel my dreams that I hardly looked at the other articles within the issue. When I finally did get my nose out of the Thalay section, I was absolutely startled by a photo taken by the Himalayan veteran, Roger Payne. He and his partner, Julie-Ann Clyma had just completed the first ascent of an iconic looking peak in an area that had a familiarity to it, although I couldn᾽t remember where I had heard it spoken. The photo was of Mt Grosvenor 6,376m in Western China᾽s Sichuan Province. It᾽s west and north west aspects in particular, lived up to what I would describe to be an ice climbers dream. A huge, triangular face of dark and imposing rock broken by fine ribbons of ice like scant lace curtains hanging over a granite pyramid. I was instantly in love. Later that year, while climbing with Gray Thompson, we discussed our desire to go on an expedition. He mentioned his 1st ascent of Lamoshe and his fondness for the friends he and his wife Eloise had made during their ᾽93 expedition to China. His mention of the Sichuan and the Daxue Shan sparked my memory of a beautiful photo in the back of Issue 6. 90

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Upon arriving home, I confirmed that he had indeed been, and still had good contacts within the area where the mighty Mt. Grosvenor split the sky. My imagination kicked into overtime and a plan started to develop, ignited by a fire roaring with motivation. After a brief query, Gray and Eloise expressed interest to go back to the Daxue Shan, solidifying the desire to visit this intriguing area. So, one of my best friends and most prolific climbing partners, Chris Gibisch and I met with Gray to discuss the climbing possibilities and began researching the history of activity within the area. Gravitating toward the NW aspect of Mt. Grosvenor and, the then unclimbed SE face of Mt Edgar 6618m, we made plans and organized the necessary logistics, made easier by Gray᾽s contacts. Unfortunately, the trip failed to materialize because of the numerous and common fragilities of such adventures. Although that trip didn᾽t work out, the stage was set and there was little doubt in my mind that some day, I would have to visit this mountain. Last Spring, Chris and I were brainstorming once again about a possible autumn adventure. A full season of racing hang gliders around the world had me hungry for climbing. Inspired by Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand᾽s success in the range, our motivation for the Daxue range again became focused. Kyle is a generous dude and provided serious stoke in the form of photos and encouragement. I᾽ve always considered asking other alpinists for info and/or photos of unclimbed routes to be kind of like asking if I could take their sisters to bed but Kyle was nothing but positive energy. His photos coupled with Gray᾽s intro to his friends, the famed Zheng brothers, Jiyue and Shoahong from Sichuan Earth Expeditions, made it easy. We acquired our permits and arranged for some four legged help to get into the mountains. Our trip was set and all that was left was to step 91

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toward the unknown, a rare and highly coveted opportunity in today᾽s world. October 14th, found Chris and I leaving the Buddhist community of Laouyling, taking the next three days to trek into base camp with a train of horses, adventurous intentions and wide eyes. Although initial snowfall caused concern, when we reached camp, the weather had improved and, fortunately, conditions looked favorable. Taking advantage of the stable weather, we did our best to acclimatize while scouting the West face and established a high camp at 5,100-meters. Mt Grosvenor (aka Ri Wu Qie) is composed of technical faces and ridgelines making no obvious easy way up . The West face, to us, appeared the most technical and impressive. It᾽s 1300 meters towers over base camp and was indeed littered with ice ribbons breaking through its steep rock. The North face, slightly shorter than the West, has potential for routes, but unfortunately is topped by large, threatening and active seracs. Grosvenor᾽s east aspect was used as the descent route for the only two previous ascents but in our estimation, contains potential for shorter and more moderate alpine lines. Finally, steep glaciated slopes and ridgelines descending toward Gonga Shan (7,556m) represent the Southern aspect of the mountain. On October 24th, despite conflicting weather forecasts, we left base camp for our high camp. Chris and I woke the next morning to a star filled sky and solidified our decision to climb. Our route began moderate, simul-climbing pitches of névé and ice protected by rock gear, sparse but solid. We traded long pitches up ever steepening ground until we found ourselves at a crux, a section we creatively deemed the mixed section while scanning the potential route from the ground. A narrow strip of detached and rotten snice swept up between compact granite devoid of any cracks. This imposing strip reared up to vertical with several bulges, providing overhanging moves made awkward by the weight of our packs and the lack of being able to see our feet. Unfortunately, there was between 4-6 of air behind the sublimated snice making for delicate and aerated placements. No gear and extremely insecure climbing coupled with a first class pump at over 19,000᾽ was certainly the adventure we were here for. Overcoming that 80m section had us feeling a tangible sense of momentum. Now, on a neve ramp leading to our proposed bivy site, the sun kissed the horizon as we made haste for what we hoped would be a reasonable ledge. To our disappointment upon arriving, the bivy site was less than ideal. With no other options, we placed a picket, chopped some seats, and pulled our bags over us, leaving our boots and belay parkas on. First light revealed our next challenge; an 8 strip of ice in the back of a deep off width, transecting the rock band above. A few delicate placements and some dry tooling allowed access to the more moderate neve and mixed ground above. Soon though, we found ourselves under yet another section of vertical, rotten snice. Not as long as the crux from the previous day but fierce looking all the same. Chris did his best to not pull the pitch down on us and fortunately, was able to place a cam half way up the strip, behind a loose block frozen in place. I remember being proud of his effort and thankful for his skill. Another long pull gave us a view of our final mystery; a couple rope lengths of steep gray ice visible from base camp. We knew this would lead us to the exit from the West face, allowing us to escape onto the summit ridge. I climbed towards the ice and our initial fears of this section being difficult were dispatched as we discovered it was likely no harder than WI4+ and the best quality water ice we had encountered yet. However, we were at approx. 20,000᾽ and we were wasted from the effort and 92

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lack of adequate acclimatization. The ice, which would have been an easy solo at the local crag, felt steep and intimidating. Digging deep, we limped our way up the water ice, hopeful at the sight of the ridgeline above. One more huge pull got us to the ridge. Exhausted, thoughts of a bivi on a broad summit slope were crushed when it was discovered that we had topped out on a sharp knife-edge ridge, fluting onto the West face. With the last rays of light, Chris led up the crest of the fluting, anxious to find a suitable bivy. Near the end of the rope, all that he was able to come up with was a good anchor and some hard ice at the base of a large overhanging boulder close to the summit. He brought me up and we started chopping ice buckets. Again, while the wind cranked in from the Tibetan Plateau, only humor and shit talk helped to keep us warm over the long hours. It was like sitting in icy movie seats while watching a scene from our dreams over the last several years. The suffering was well worth it. Arctic temps greeted us on the morning of the 27th finding us reluctant to leave our bags. Morning light was reaching the summit and we knew warmth awaited us. A distant and fast moving storm increased our motivation so, half frozen, we began climbing together. After some of the most exhausting easy climbing I᾽ve ever done, we stood together on the summit plateau. Winds were light, the sky was blue, and the views were amazing. After enjoying the perspective and brewing up some much needed water, we traversed the highest point and worked our way down the ever-steepening NE ridge until it became too rocky and complex for steady progress, prompting us to escape down the E face. Just as I threw a leg over the small cornice onto the East face, the fast approaching storm overtook the mountain. Our timing was lucky as we descended in the lee, making 12 rappels, mostly from abolakovs, to where we could easily down climb the remaining 1000᾽ to the glacial basin between Mt Grosvenor, Jiazi and Edgar. By the time we set up the tent for the first time on route, the wind was blowing so hard that we had series doubts it would maintain it᾽s integrity through the night. Regardless, laying down after 3 days on the move felt like luxury. The following day was spent rappelling the 800᾽ col between Jiazi and Grosvenor, followed by a long slog through small icefalls and snow-covered moraine. Finally, around 5pm we began to celebrate as we walked across the grassy meadows toward base camp, friends and hot food. I wrote something once that seemed to fit with the mood the next day while looking back up at the west face of Mt Grosvenor. Remembering our time on the face was like waking up from a fantastic dream, wishing I could remember the details. Climbing is an expression of art, beauty, determination, and pure action. You can᾽t fake it. When on the sharp end , you either do it or don᾽t. The simplicity is brilliant. Failure is a positive experience as lessons are earned. Climbing allows us to be able to self explore, defining and redefining our capabilities while surrounded by unparalleled beauty. Like Joseph Campbel᾽s A Hero᾽s Journey , climbing in the mountains can be a vision quest where one never knows what lays around the next corner, but might just find that he/she is indeed ready for it. The fun is in the discovery and the exploration of our fear, doubt and definition of what᾽s possible made even sweeter by the fact that we share these life and attitude changing moments with like-minded partners. Our route, Black Wolves and Blue Popies (M5+ WI4+ AI6 ca 1,300m) was done in Alpine style with leave no trace ethics. Leaving a total of 3 pins at rappel stations close to the bottom of the East face was both unavoidable, and the only gear left during our ascent. It᾽s our hope that the faces of the Daxue Shan be respected by the continued absence of bolts and other unnecessary fixed gear. 93

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Mid route

Chris climbing steep ice near the top

Chris at the start “Black Wolves and Blue Poppies”

Jeff climbing just before the routes crux

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TAKAO OHE

Attempts 2011 in three regions of West Sichuan Highlands Qonglai Mountains, Gongkala Shan & Chola Shan North (Three maps drawn by Takao Ohe)

1. Qonglai Mountains â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Unclimbed Goromity 5,609m Goromity 5,609 is an outstanding and highest unclimbed summit in Qonglai Mountains in west Sichuan. This peak is viewed from Balang Shan Pass to the north and soars dominantly north of Rolong town, a day drive far from Chengdu. There are two valleys north of Rilong, Shuangqiao valley in northwest and Changping valley in northeast. Goromity (Chinese name: RiYueBaoJing) is between the two valleys in the southernmost rim of the Qonglai Mountains. Shuangqiao means double bridges and Changping means lengthy flat place. Shuangqiao valley is in a nature reserve boundary of the National Park of China. A Chinese party made a failed attempt on climbing Goromity from the west side in 2010. They were bothered by unstable snow and falling rocks. Approach and Climbing Two Chinese potential climbers, ZhouPeng and LuoBiao, first challenged Goromity from Shuangqiao valley in autumn of 2011. They set up BC at 4,450m in rain after walking up XiaoNiuChang, narrow and steep branch valley of Shuangqiao. On the following day they ascended the south-west ridge along center to left line, but had to descend at 5,250m because of bad weather and danger of unstable rock and snow. It is noted that in winter of 2009, their friends made the first ascent of Mt. Five-Colors known of unique geologic layer. Takao Ohe and Hitoshi Onodera from the Tohoku University Alpine Club attempted Goromity in August 2011. They reconnoitered a viable climbing route from both east and west sides, Changping valley and Shuangqiao valley. The Changping valley was not suitable in view of logistic as an approach was too long. There was a risk exposed to flooding due to rainfall. We had no information on climbing the upper part of mountain because of invisibility. In the west side, Shuangqiao valley, it looked relatively easy, at least to the BC. Then we decided to enter the Shuangqiao valley. We could see Goromity directly from a road in Shuangqiao valley. There are two branch valleys, DaNiuChang and XiaoNiuChang in the west side of Goromity. The former is wider rather than the latter and has a trail for villagers. The latter looked narrow and steep as the Chinese climbing party reported. We found a good lodge of Tibetan Wang family at 3,300m in Shuangqiao village. They provided us with excellent services. We set up BC in the headwaters of DaNiuChang at 4,200m on the 6th August and set up ABC in the headwaters of XiaoNiuChang at 4,400m on the 10th August having crossed a ridge from BC at DaNiuChang in four hours walk. On the 11th August, Ohe, Nakahara and Pemba left ABC for fixing rope to a col and upper. When climbing around 5,000m in a gully directly led to the col, we were exposed to frequent and dangerous falling rocks. After one hour watching there, we decided to go down.

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Qonglai Mountains map drawn by Janek

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2. Gongkala Shan–Kawarani Kawarani of the Gongkala Shan range is located 30 km southeast of Garze. Two principal peaks Kawarani-I 5,992m and Kawarani-II 5,928m remain unclimbed. Local Tibetans pronounce it Kawaruori . Reconnaissance was first conducted by a Japanese party, Yamanashi Mountaineering Federation in autumn of 1999 and then a British party first attempted on climbing in autumn of 2005. They set up the second camp at 4,800m. However hostile monks of a lamasery forcibly opposed the British to continue climbing for religious reason. They could not help to abandon the attempt. Another British party came to Kawarani 2007 but a climbing permit could not be obtained. We planned to climb Kawarani in summer of 2011 in a hope that a climbing permit would be issued as our agent, Sichuan Earth Expeditions (Chengdu) had suggested. After getting an official permit of the Sichuan Mountaineering Association, we left Japan on 24th July. To our great surprise, however, our plan was turned down by a senior official, Mr. Xu, Deputy Director of Sports Administrative Department, Garze Tibetans Autonomous Region at Kangding. He excused that Kawarani was holy mountains to local Tibetans and would oppose anyone to ascend the mountains. Supposedly there might be the other reason of recent sensitive and uncertain situation as monks᾽ fire suicides though the official was silent. In fact the public security bureau (PSB) is cautious and nervous about foreigners to contact local villagers in Khamba territory.

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3. Chola Shan North – Polujab and Sejong Two hours drive from Garze took us to a local town, Manigange, where the road diverged into R317, Sichuan Tibet Highway heading to Tibet and R217, Sichuan Qinghai Highway to Qinghai Province. We drove R217 to Zhuqingsi in two hours, where a high-ranked and historical monastery of Red Hat Sect, Zhogchen Gomba is located. We had the only information that there existed unclimbed mountains massif called Polujab closely south of the monastery. Famous early explorers and missionaries such Pundit A-K (1882), W. W. Rockhill (1889), Annie Taylor (1893), S. Rijnhart (1898), Eric Teichman (1918), Andre Migot (1946) visited the monastery en route from Yushu (Jekungdo) to Kangding (Tatsienlu). Tamotsu Nakamura and Tsuyoshi Nagai stayed in the monastery for three days in autumn of 2000 and made a preliminary reconnaissance of the massif. There are two valleys west and east in the northern part of massif. East valley is located closely behind Zhogchen Gomba to south. Nakamura and Nagai entered the west valley according to an advice by a high-ranked Monk but bad weather gave them no chance to have a clear view of the mountain. Kan Tashiro and Takao Ohe visited there in 2010. Takao Ohe and Hitoshi Onodera from the Tohoku University Alpine Club visited again to unveil the main peaks in summer of 2011. Name and Location of the Mountain This massif lies at latitude of 32° 2Ń – 32° 4Ń, longitude of 98° 47É – 98° 50É. Ohe and two young students, Nakahara and Nomura entered the west valley and Onodera, Matsuno and Pan entered the east valley being guided by a young monk. The guide said that he had never heard of the name of Polujab and the highest peak was called Sejong . Onodera party took photos of Nobuyugya, Sejong I and Sejong II. A village chief guided Ohe in the west valley. He pointed out a rocky peak seen behind the mouth of the valley and called it Polujab. He also explained that the highest peak was called Sejong. We conclude that the highest peak in the massif is Sejong I (unknown 5,816 + m not shown on Chinese map), the second highest peak is Sejong II (5,816m shown on Chinese map), the third highest peak is Nobuyugya (5,594m shown on Chinese map) and the forth peak is Polujab (5,472m shown on Chinese map).

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Goromity 5,609m (left), Five Color (center), Qonglai Mountains

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Kawarani I 5,992m N face, Gongkala Shan

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Sejong I 5,816m + NE face, Chola Shan North

Polujab 5,472m Nface, Chola Shan North 101

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ANG TATSUO TSHERING (TIM) INOUE SHERPA

The First Ascent Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805m Mountaineering andofAdventure Tourism in West Nepal Autumn ―Prospect 2009 Expedition to the Kangri Garpo East Mountains, Tibet and Potentiality― Nepal is a multi-geographic country situated in the South Asia between two giant Nations of China and India. The total area of Nepal is 147,181 sq.km. The northern belt of Nepal is covered by the Himalayas, the central belt by the mid-hills and the flat plains of the Terai cover the south. A country of extremes, the lowest point in Nepal is 70m from sea level and the highest point is the summit of Mount Everest at 8848 meters, making her the highest mountain in the world. The climate varies from extreme alpine with severe winters and cool summers in the north to mild winters and subtropical summers in the south. Geographically Nepal is divided into five developmental regions which are Eastern Region, Central Region, Western Region, Mid-western Region and Far-western Region. The Eastern Region has a damp climate whereas the Western Region has dry climate even during the monsoon season. The influence of the monsoon is less in west and the climate is moderate in the central region. All the rivers flow southwards from the glaciers of Nepal to join up to the Ganges in India. Several rivers flow from Tibet through deep gorges in the main Himalayan ranges. There is vast diversity of forest, animals as well as people in the Himalayan Nation. The Karnali is the longest river of Nepal. Similarly the largest lake is Rara Lake. Mid and Far-west are the least developed regions in Nepal despite of vast resources that have the potential to turn it way ahead of rest of the development regions with in a medium to long term time frame. What is needed is a serious effort to mobilize, implement and monitor. Effort should therefore, be made to identify the resource potential of the region, it᾽s comparative advantage, the contribution it can make in the life of the people, not limiting with the people in the region alone. The important tourist centers are Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve, Khaptad National Park, Mount Api and Saipal. Lack of infrastructures and distance from the capital city are the main causes for which very few Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng tourists visit Far-Western Development Region. There are numerous famous low, middle and high mountains in West Nepal. Therefore, there is great scope for developing mountain tourism in West Nepal. The mountain ranges from Far-West Nepal to West Nepal are Nalakankar Himal Range, Chandi Himal range, Kangnun Himal range, Changla Himal range,Byas Rishi Himal Range,Namjung Himal Range,Guras Himal range,Gorakha Himal range, Khangla Himal range, Kanti Himal range Palchung Hamga Himal range, Charkha Bhot Himal range, Gautam Himal range, Chalbhat Himal range, Mustang Himal Range etc. Government of Nepal has declared free royalty for the opened peaks of Mid-west and Far-west region for mountaineering until 16 July 2014. Most of the entire mountain ranges in West Nepal have no accurate information and there are many peaks that have not been mapped, photographed, climbed or even visited. Despite the huge potentials for promoting mountain tourism, it has not been exploited significantly. With so many unclimbed summits on all sides, and such a dearth of scientific knowledge of the region, it seems that the majority of West Nepal is still in the phase of reconnaissance mountaineering where the small expedition, often with scientific aims, comes most fully into its own. 102

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We have seen the immensely valuable work of photographing and mapping the mountains in the eastern Himalayas of Tibet by Mr. Tamotsu Nakamura. This detailed documentation of each individual peak is a huge asset for developing mountaineering and mountain tourism. We now recognize that a similar effort is required in Nepal, especially the less explored western Nepalese Himalaya. This would be a huge boon to the people of west Nepal, who are amongst the most economically deprived in the world. Nepal is now recognized as one of the greatest destinations for travelers and mountaineers throughout the world. All is the upshot of earlier mountaineers, trekkers cum writers who have introduced the world to this hidden paradise nestled in the lap of Himalayas. Since then mountaineers and adventures can't help but find themselves heading to this beautiful Himalayan Nation, Nepal. Nepal has been the Mecca for mountaineers with many of the highest peaks in the world and some most outstanding achievements have been made in the world of mountaineering. Mountaineering is considered the keystone activity that Nepal offers to the climbers than any country in the world. There are around 3,310 peaks above 5,500m along the Himalayan range of Nepal. Among them, there are 1,310 peaks above 6,000m. In recent times, the government of Nepal has opened only 326 peaks for mountaineering. Even till this day, most of the great Himalayan region is untouched and has always fascinated and inspired a horde of people from all walks of life over and again. Tourism is regarded as one of the biggest and fastest growing industries in the world. It has a significant role in the socio-economic development of many developed and developing countries. Tourism has been playing a pivotal role in the economic development of Nepal. Due to the possession of natural wealth, a cultural, religious and archaeological heritage Nepal is emerging as an important tourist destination in the world. The Himalayas of Nepal and their scenic beauty are the prominent attractions for the tourists. Nepal is the country of Mount Everest, the land of the world's famous climbers and the land of Lord Buddha. Its snow peak, mountains, rivers and lakes, conducive climate and mysterious charms are the attraction to visitors coming here. Nepal has eight cultural and two natural world heritage sites. It offers nature-based tourism activities like trekking, mountaineering, rafting and wildlife sanctuaries. Having all the important ingredients for tourism development in the country, people from both East and West are attracted to visit Nepal. Today, tourism is one of the main sources of foreign exchange earnings for Nepal, provides good employment opportunities at different levels and promotes cottage industries, trade and other service sectors. Mountain Tourism is one of the significant sectors of Nepalese tourism. Mountaineering and trekking are considered the major tourism products of Nepalese tourism. It is mountaineering and trekking that increases the length of stay of the tourists, support the rural economy and have a pivotal impact upon the entire tourism industry of the country. Mountains are the 'key' to developing the tourism industry in Nepal, but the vast resources of tourism have not been tapped very significantly. In Nepal, mountain tourism being a major tourism product, its proper evaluation and development is needed. Thus, proper planning and policy formulation is needed for sustainable mountain tourism development in the country. But, the various policies, master plans, tourism development plans and Tourism Policy, 1995áž˝ do not seem to have addressed the issues of mountain tourism adequately. In the beginning, mountain tourism was not seriously taken as an important tourism product, but only later it can be seen that it was developed as an important tourism product. Earlier, most of the tourists coming to Nepal came with the objective of organized tours featuring sightseeing and cultural visits. In recent years, there has been a dramatic increase in the number of tourists coming with the objective of trekking and mountaineering, while there has been a decline in the number of tourists coming for 103

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the cultural and sightseeing tours. The Great Himalayan Trail (GHT) is a newly launched Tourism product of Nepal by the Ministry of Tourism. It is a long distance walking trail along the length of the Himalayas in Nepal envisaged under GHT Development Program led by Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation. GHT is likely to help in channeling tourists and pro-poor tourism investments to less visited and under developed districts of Nepal. The Climate Smart Celebrity Trek (CSCT) is being organized to raise global awareness on the impacts of Climate Change in the Himalayas and showcase how sustainable tourism can be used as a tool for poverty reduction and to build climate-resilience among impoverished mountain communities. Apa Sherpa (21 times Mt. Everest Summiteer) and my son Dawa Steven Sherpa (Two times Mt. Everest Summiteer and Managing Director of Asian Trekking (P) Ltd) embarked on a 1,700 KM and 120 days long Great Himalaya Trail on 15thJanuary, 2012. The event has been endorsed by Climate Change Council, the apex body of Government of Nepal headed by Rt. Hon. Prime Minister. The mountaineer duo will be accompanied by Saurav Dhakal- British Council International Climate Champion, Samir Jung Thapa- the official photographer of the event and Asian Trekking᾽s guides, cooks, camp staffs and porters. GHT-CSCT is organized by the Himalayan Climate Initiative (HCI) in coordination with Government of Nepal, particularly Ministry of Environment, and Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation, with the support of DFID, British Council, SNV, GHTDP Partners. The event has already received support of Corporate partners Geo-Eye, Asian Trekking, North Face and expects to earn the support of several Corporate Partners in the days to come. Some of the major highlights of the GHT-CSCT are: • The Great Himalaya Trail-Climate Smart Celebrity Trek (GHT-CSCT) will traverse some of the most rugged and breathtaking mountain landscapes on earth and will pass beneath eight of the world᾽s highest peaks. • The GHT-CSCT will cut through 20 districts in the mid-hills and low mountains of Nepal, many of which have been reported as vulnerable to Climate Change impacts according to the National Adaptation Programme of Action (NAPA) report. • GHT-CSCT will invite global celebrities such as Hollywood and Bollywood stars, celebrities from the world of entertainment, television and sports, famous mountaineers, politicians, environmental activists, researchers, local and global media to join Apa Sherpa and Dawa Steven Sherpa on GHTCSCT. Besides promoting GHT as a great tourism product, their participation will raise global awareness about Climate Change in the Himalayas and promote pro-poor tourism as a potential Climate Adaptation strategy and poverty reduction tool in Nepal᾽s Himalayas. • GHT-CSCT will raise awareness among government representatives, politicians, civil society leaders, private sector, and development partners in Nepal for the vulnerability of impoverished people against the effects of climate change. • GHT-CSCT will establish GHT, nationally and internationally, as a sustainable tourism product. It will promote the GHT as the world᾽s highest long-distance walking trail and Nepal᾽s newest tourism product among travelers and tourism professionals worldwide and highlight its pro-poor, 104

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sustainable and climate smart approach. • GHT-CSCT will establish mountain tourism as a climate friendly activity, and promote trekking as an eco-friendly and low-carbon tourism activity. The GHT-CSCT will be a zero carbon emission activity.

The Prague International Alpinism Festival and Conference, Czech, early December 2011 (Dawa Steven Sherpa made lecture.)

The Great Himalaya Trail Development Program (GHTDP) will work towards harnessing tourism with a market-led approach to improve livelihoods and bring sustainable development opportunities to remote and poor communities through the creation of an iconic and globally significant new tourism product for Nepal. The Great Himalaya Trail (GHT) is a network of existing paths and trade routes spanning the length of the country from Darchula and Humla in the West to Kanchenjunga in the East, packaged and promoted into one of the world᾽s great walks. Over the longer term, the GHT has the potential to traverse the length of the Himalayan Range stretching through impoverished mountain areas of Pakistan, India and Bhutan. It is my sincere hope that with the support of photographing and mapping work like that done by Mr. Tamotsu Nakamura and events such as the Great Himalayan Trail-Climate Smart Celebrity Trek, all mountains and mountain communities in Nepal will bring much need attention to these area and help in bettering the lives of the people that live there. The following pictures are of the Doshisha University Alpine Club, Kyoto, which is a pioneer of the far West Nepal. 105

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Far West Nepal - View From the top of Saipal to Api and Garhwar Himalaya

Whole profile of the south face of Saipal 7,040m - West Nepal

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TOSHIO YOSHDA

Quest for Meconopsis in western Sichuan, China Abstract: Recent discoveries of blue poppies, Meconopsis pulchella, M. heterandra, M. balangensis, and its variety M. balangensis var. atrata, growing on isolated mountains of the western Sichuan, China, are described in detail. Photos of these new taxa taken in the fields are provided, and the publications are cited. A piglet to a god and discovering Meconopsis pulchella Discovery of Meconopsis pulchella is a comparatively simple story. At the beginning of August, 2009, I visited Yele Nature Reserve located in the northern corner of Mianning county, southwestern Sichuan, to photograph Meconopsis wilsonii, a magnificent blue poppy with a long, cylindrical panicle. Its subspecies growing in Yunnan, M. wilsonii subsp. australis, has been collected several times by Chinese botanists and photographed by myself and a British traveler. The typical plant of the species, subsp. wilsonii, was, however, only once collected by E.H. Wilson in 1908 on a mountain in Baoxing county, western Sichuan, and at the time when Christopher Grey-Wilson published the plant as a new species in 2006, no one knew about the living plant of the typical plant. I reported the rediscovery of M. wilsonii subsp. wilsonii together with Hang Sun and David E. Boufford in 2007 (*1). It was based on the specimens collected in Yele Nature Reserve in 2005, after some 100 years from the first collection, by the cooperated team between Kunming Institute of Botany, Chinese Academy, and Harvard University Herbaria, USA. I happened to examine the specimens and photos of the living plants taken by H. Sun and D.E. Boufford of this team, but I myself, having no chance to join the team, did not observe the plant in the field. At first I entered Yunnan and visited Lijiang, an old town listed in the World Heritage of UNESCO, to call Tashi, a Tibetan boy living in a pastureland for yaks, Maoniuping, located on the northern foot of Yulong Xueshan. He was a reliable mountain guide and also an entertainer excellent at dancing and singing in a traditional style. Accompanied by Tashi, I took an intercity bus to enter Sichuan at Panzhihua, and transfered to a northbound bus to reach Liziping, then went along a narrow road winding up a mountain flank by a taxi to meet Yue Minghua who was working at the office of Yele Nature Reserve located just below the newly constructed Yele dam. Yue Minghua lived in a Yi-tribe village, Lamagetou, at the western corner of Yele valley. He owned a forestry lodge adjoining his house and we were to stay there at the night. I unfolded a regional map in his office and asked him which mountain we were able to climb for exploring plants including M. wilsonii subsp. wilsonii in this Nature Reserve. I wanted to start a trek to the mountain next day. He told me in a dignified manner that we had to wait in his lodge at least three days to take a permission to enter the Nature Reserve, but it was no problem to climb a metalliferous mountain 107

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located outside of the Nature Reserve without the permission and stay in a lodge of a large tent for miners to be supplied with beds and foods on the mountain. He added that the expedition team in 2005 had not climbed the mountain. I blurted out Lucky me!᾽ because I expected some rare and unknown plants might grow in the metalliferous mountain. Yue Minghua took us to his house by car together with his colleagues who carried three cases of beer. Unpaved roads around Lamagetou were seriously muddy with monsoon rains and scattered dung of yaks and sheep. After dark many villagers gathered in his house. Some of them carried a black piglet into a dark corner of a dining room and hauled four legs of the animal in every direction. A man with a butcher knife in his hand squatted in front of the exposed belly of the squeaking animal to be sacrificed. Yue Minghua seated me at the head of a rude wooden table under a small light as a main guest of the banquet, which was, however, primarily hold to celebrate a success of his eldest daughter in an entrance examination for a collage at the first time in this region, and, to my relief, not to welcome us to this remote village. Chopped meats and some vegetables were boiled in a caldron and served in bowls arranged on the table together with cups of beer. Yue Minghua᾽s wife, a gravel-voiced woman, sang a unique melody of a folk song in a tradition of Yi-tribe and offered a small cup of baijiu, a terribly strong liquor, one by one to the attendants. Each villager who was served the liquor made the audience burst into laughter by a witty and probably sexy envoi. Tashi, as a substitute for me, sang a cheerful melody in a Tibetan tradition with a fullthroated voice echoing throughout the house, and other two modern melodies as encores urged by the villagers. Climbing the iron mine Next day, after waiting long for a horseman who had a hangover, we started to walk toward north in the afternoon. At the end of a bumpy road trodden by dump cars appeared many plants of the Meconopsis wilsonii subsp. wilsonii. The plants were about to finish flowering and bore many ellipsoid fruits in the upper half of the cylindrical panicles. As climbing along a lift carrying iron ore, I saw some large plants of this type subspecies, nearly 2 m tall, growing on the half-shadowed edge of a mixed forest with numerous flowers still opened. The plants seemed to be clearly different from the subsp. australis of the same species in the shape and the color of flowers and the shape of leaves. On the other hand, it seemed difficult for me to find any distinct character differentiating it from another plant of the same species recently introduced to a garden in Britain from Wumeng Shan, northern Yunnan, and caused disputes about its taxonomy among blue poppy enthusiasts. The latter plant was, however, to be published as a new subspecies, M. wilsonii subsp. orientalis, by Christopher Grey-Wilson and others in the spring of 2011 (*2). At dusk we got to a large domed tent at 4,100m in elevation beside a mound of coals and surrounded by several barrel-roofed tents for miners to sleep. There was a big coal stove at the center of the domed tent and we were allocated to special beds for guests near the stove to sleep without sleeping bags. Next morning, just after a fresh sunshine penetrated drifting fogs and reached to our feet, we began to explore the slope above our tent, and soon I noticed a small plant of Meconopsis bearing a brilliant magenta flowers and a few young fruits on scapes. The flower had only 4 petals; the fruits were 108

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relatively large and obconical; the leaves were entire; the bristly hairs covering the plant had a thick and blackish base. I could not remember any scapose plant of Meconopsis having all these characters. As we climbed higher, I saw more of the same plant rooting into a blackish soil among stratified rocks of shale on the slopes scattered with grasses and herbs. Some flowers of the plant had 5 or 6 petals in an irregular arrangement, and they were considered to be abnormal. Every plant appeared to be scapose, that is to say, with flowers singly born at the top of long scapes and without a stem exposed above the ground. The plant looked like Meconopsis impedita at a glance. The latter species has, however, flowers with 5 or more (never 4), blue (not magenta) petals, and usually has pinnately lobed leaves. Therefore, the two plants seemed clearly different each other. I provisionally named the plant M. pulchella in order to avoid to call it with a contradictory name of a magenta-colored blue poppy᾽. The specific name pulchella᾽ literally means small and pretty, but has an implication of a resemblance to Primula pulchella in the flower color. The plant was published on the Christmas Day of 2010 after cooperated studies with H. Sun and D.E. Boufford (*2). A thermal insulator in Meconopsis heterandra While photographing several plants of M. pulchella in the metalliferous mountain, I climbed a steep slope of boulders colored in reddish brown caused by iron, and glanced at a racemose blue poppy with prickly hairs growing beside a large rock above the reddish slope. At first I regarded the plant as a common species of prickly blue poppies in this region, either M. rudis or M. racemosa. In looking at the plant through my camera, however, I felt there was something different from these species. After taking pictures, I examined the plant and got surprised by the sight of a flower in my hand, because the stamens of the plant looked to be divided into two groups, inner and outer, and the inner half of the stamens had curious filaments that were inflated like a insulating hollow fiber and curved inward all together to surround the ovary. I heard myself saying, what about that !᾽ Then, I changed the target of my search from M. pulchella to this strange plant. On the steep slopes near the ridge, I found more plants of the same taxon growing among rocks or at crevices or ledges of large rocks, and realized all the plants I examined had similar dimorphous stamens. The plants had relatively large flowers, to 7 cm across, with usually 5, rarely 6 or 7, blue petals and never with 4 petals. The leaves were wider than the related species, M. rudis and M. racemosa, with usually 2-4 pairs of coarse teeth. The prickly hairs covering over the plant were hard, but thinner than the latter two species, with blackish thick bases that were not so prominent as those in M. rudis. Stigma at the top of style was much larger than the related species. The plants had 2-8 flowers in a raceme, but looked as if they were scapose because of the very short rachis of the raceme. The unique character of the inflated filaments surrounding ovary was unknown in any species of Meconopsis except M. henrici. The latter species has, however, isomorphous (not dimorphous) filaments, which are flatly dilated and inwardly curved in the lower half to surround ovary, but are filiform and erect along the style in the upper half. Such a character of inflated or dilated filaments was considered to be not easy for the plants to acquire in their history of adaptation and enough to separate them from the related species as different species. I provisionally named this prickly blue poppy growing on the metalliferous mountain in Mianning as M. heterandra. Hetero᾽ means to be differently shaped, andra᾽ means stamens. The M. heterandra was to be published as a new species 109

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together with M. pulchella in 2010 (*2). An adaptation by the inflated filaments We climbed southwest facing slopes, where pits for iron ore scattered, and reached the foot of a perpendicular rock wall at 4,500m in elevation. I looked up the wall and perceived many plants of M. heterandra growing along fissures of the rock face to a height where drifting fogs obscured the scenery. Fogs carried by the southwest summer monsoon blowing over the Yele valley were incessantly watering the plants growing on the slopes and the rock walls that seemed to have a scanty supply of underground water. Such habitats as rocky slopes or fissures on the rock wall at a high alpine zone around 4,500m in elevation seemed quite severe for the plants growing there. They may be exposed to cool and wet updrafts of the monsoon and often covered with frozen dews at night, and also exposed to strong sunshine with an excess ultra-violet ray through a brake of fogs in the daytime. The most severe season for the plants would be early summer when they bear sensitive flower-buds. I imagined that M. heterandra would have been adapted to such a severe climate in a long period of glacial ages and subsequent interglacial ages by an intricate device of the inflated inner filaments covering ovary to protect itself against cold winds, drastic changes of temperature, and also excess ultra-violet rays. Flower-buds of the plants are preserved within the crevice of rocks owing to their short stalks and the short rachis of raceme. As the flowers begin to open, the flower-stalks begin to develop and rapidly increase the length to make them prominent for the eye of pollinators such as bumblebees that can fly against cold and strong winds. The bumblebees would assist diversifying genes to overcome drastic changes of temperature in the future. Before returning to Yunnan, We explored a high mountain near Wuxuhai in Jiulong county to the west of Mianning, and then Jipo Shan in Muli county to the south for searching Meconopsis heterandra, but I found only the related M. rudis, and could not find any plant with the inflated filaments of a prickly blue poppy on both of the mountains. Then I visited the herbarium in Kunming Institute of Botany for searching the plant among specimens of M. rudis and M. racemosa, but it was quite difficult to examine the unique character on them because most of the stamens were already removed and the remnant of filaments were shriveled. After returning to Japan, I noticed a photo of a prickly blue poppy in a calendar produced by Kazuo Mori, a founder of the Society for the Study of East-Asian Wild Plants, hung on a wall in my room, and was startled at the sight of a flower that had stamens separated into two groups, inside and outside. The plant was taken by himself on Balang Shan, western Sichuan, according to the photocaption. Then, I inspected all the photos of prickly blue poppies I had ever taken in the southwestern China, and realized that those taken in the limited area of western Sichuan including Balang Shan and Siguniang Shan had the stamens separated into two groups, and such stamens were unseen in all the photos taken anywhere out of this area. The inflated filaments similar to those of M. heterandra were observed in a flower falling petals by magnifying a digital image of the plant photographed on the Balang Shan. 110

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Around the pass on a mountain range named Jiajin Shan located in a short distance to the southeast of Balang Shan grows a curious prickly poppy resembling to the Balang Shan plant except flower color that was a strange color of dark red. I perceived the inflated filaments also in the photos of the Jiajin Shan plant. The area around Balang Shan and Siguniang Shan is one of the famous sightseeing spots in the western China. It is quite strange that no one, including me, visited there with an interest in blue poppies noticed the strange character of the stamens until now. A prickly blue poppy on Balang Shan proved to be another new species ! After the death of Mao Zedong and the arrest of the Gang of Four who had led the Great Cultural Revolution, Chinese government invoked a so-called reform and open policy in various fields in the end of 1970s under the leadership of Deng Xiaoping. It was one of such policies that many high mountains in China was opened in 1980 to foreigners to climb the summit. In response to this announcement, several Japanese mountaineering teams immediately set about applying to climb virgin peaks of the mountains. The highest peak of Siguniang Shan (6,250m) was first climbed in 1981 by the team of the Doshisha University. It was followed by brilliant first climbs of Gyalha Peri (7,294m) in 1985 and Namcha Barwa (7,782m) in 1990, but with some tragic disasters such as in Minya Konka, or Gongga Shan, in 1982 and Meili Xueshan in 1991. Following the climbers aiming at the summits, travelers, trekkers and nature-lovers like me began to visit mountains in China. Siguniang Shan was one of the most well-known destinations in the western China for Japanese trekkers. The name of Siguniang Shan means a mountain range of four sisters; the highest peak is called Yaomei Feng, or a peak of the youngest sister, whereas the lowest peak at an elevation of 5,250m is called Daguniang Shan, or a peak of the eldest sister, to which most of mountaineering tour groups intend to climb. My first visit to Siguniang Shan was in the late summer of 1992, and it took two days to reach the pass, Balang Shan, located at the entrance of Siguniang Shan, by car from the capital of Sichuan, Chengdu, after passing across some muddy places of unpaved roads and landslides by walk, although it will take only a half day today. I observed the prickly blue poppy on sunny slopes composed of shale and earth on Balang Shan and Daguniang shan. Since then I visited this area around Balang Shan and photographed the prickly blue poppy there in some occasions, but determining a specific name of the plant was a difficult work for me, because the plant had been called Meconopsis horridula, M. racemosa or M. rudis by various botanists in these years. I thought the plant would be akin to M. rudis, but in the same time I felt something different in the shape and color of the plant from M. rudis when comparing the photos each other. Eventually I could not settle this taxonomy problem until I recognized a unique character of the inflated filaments in M. heterandra and in the photos of the blue poppy taken in the area around Balang Shan. A field research for Meconopsis balangensis In the mid July of 2010, the best season to see the flowers of the prickly blue poppy in question, I visited Balang Shan and Jiajin Shan to examine the plant in the fields and collect its flowering specimens for the Kunming Institute of Botany. Owing to a sense of purpose to distinguish the plant from the related species, I could at last recognize its unique features I had never noticed in the 111

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previous visits. As I had observed it in my photos beforehand, the prickly blue poppy growing on Balang Shan proved to have the inflated filaments similar to those of Meconopsis heterandra. Such a feature of the filaments, together with the large stigma and the rounded top of the fruit capsules of the plant, seemed to clearly differentiate it from the related M. rudis. The Balang Shan plant looked to have a long rachis of raceme and short, ascending pedicels, similarly to M. rudis, and measured much taller than M. heterandra, which looked, however, as if it were scapose from a distant view because of the short rachis of raceme and the elongate, erect pedicels. Prickly hairs of the plant have thick and blackish bases similarly to those of M. rudis, but they are not so prominent as in the latter; the leaves of the plant are similar to those of M. rudis, but usually wider than the latter, whereas M. heterandra has leaves usually with 2-4 pairs of coarse teeth. Meconopsis heterandra grows on a severe habitat with poor soil at rock-crevices or rock-shelves exposed to updrafts of the wet summer monsoon. M. rudis also grows on a severe habitat with poor soil, not less than those of the former, such as rocky slopes near the ridge exposed to the monsoon. Both species, M. heterandra and M. rudis, grow only on the western side of ridges exposed to the monsoon and never grows on the eastern side of the same ride in my observations. On the other hand, the Balang Shan plant grows on a relatively mild habitat, such as unstable stony slopes composed of shale mingled with blackish soil, irrespective of a particular aspect. I convinced the Balang Shan plant as a new species different from both of Meconopsis heterandra and M. rudis, and provisionally named it Meconopsis balangensis. The specific name derives from the locality, Balang Shan. The plant growing on Jiajin Shan proved to be different in its smaller stature and the narrower hairs as well as the much darker petals than the Balang Shan plant, so that I named it M. balangensis var. atrata. The varietal name atrata᾽ means to be dark colored. These new taxa was published in the summer of 2010 after cooperated studies with H. Sun and D.E. Boufford (*3). I thought Meconopsis balangensis would derive from a natural hybrid between M. heterandra and M. rudis by a good reason of its characteristics midway between these two species, and imagined a natural history of these species as follows. M. heterandra, provided with an insulation device of inflated inner filaments protecting ovary against a freezing cold weather, developed in a glacial epoch. In the following warm epoch, M. rudis tolerant toward a dry and hot weather became prosperous with an extended distribution. Some population of M. heterandra survived at unique habitats of rock-fissures and rock-shelves on isolated mountains in Mianning county and probably in the area around Balang Shan. Then, the plants on Balang Shan hybridized with M. rudis having extended the distribution toward north, and finally formed a new species of M. balangensis. （*1）Yoshida, T., H. Sun and D.E. Boufford, 2007. Meconopsis wilsonii subsp. wilsonii (Papaveraceae) Rediscovered. Acta Botanica Yunnanica 29: 286-288. （*2）Yoshida T., H. Sun & D.E. Boufford, 2010. New species of Meconopsis (Papaveraceae) from Mianning, southwestern Sichuan, China. Acta Botanica Yunnanica 32: 503-507. （*3）Yoshida T., H. Sun & D.E. Boufford, 2011. New species of Meconopsis (Papaveraceae) from Balang Shan, western Sichuan, China. Plant Diversity and Resources 33: 409-413.

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Meconopsis balangensis var. atrata, 2007. 7. 19, Jiajin Shan 3,95m

Meconopsis balangensis var. atrata, 2007. 7. 20, Jiajin Shan 3,950m

Meconopsis balangensis, 2007. 7. 19, Balang Shan, 4,500m

Meconopsis balangensis, 2007. 7. 19a, Balang Shan,. 4,250m 113

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Meconopsis pulchella, 2009. 8. 5, Mianning, 4,300m

Meconopsis heterandra, 2009. 8. 4, Minaning, 4,400m

Meconopsis heteranda, Flower, 2009. 8. 4, Minaning, 4,400m

Meconopsis heteranda, 2009. 8. 5, Mianning, 4,400m 114

Meconopsis balangensis, Flower, 2010. 7. 19, Balang Shan,. 4,250m

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TAMOTSU NAKAMURA

Unclimbed Summits in Sichuan China 2012 Long highlighted Yangmolong main summit 6,060m was scaled by an Americanâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Chinese party in October 2011. One of the last problems in Sichuan was finally solved. As shown on the above map, only a few unclimbed 6,000m peaks remain in the West Sichuan Highlands, China. However there are many alluring peaks not exceeding 6,000m which inspire and attract ambitious climbers. I have updated area-wise information on notable unclimbed peaks and

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describe an overview thereof from northwest to southeast for the readers having an interest in these mountain regions.

1. Chola Shan North The Chola Shan is divided into North and South at the Chola Shan Pass 4,910m. The northern part is a massif of Sejong I 5,816m & II 5,816m +, Nobuyugya 5,594m and Polujabu 5,472m not far to south from a historical monastery, Zhogcheng Gompa. The highest peak Chola Shan I 6,168m (climbed) is located south of the Lake Xinlujhai in the southern part, where several expeditions already accomplished ascents. The northern part north of the Chola Shan Pass 4,910m has been reconnoitered only by Tom Nakamura in the fall of 2000 and a Japanese party from the Hengduan Mountains Club in the summer of 2011. However no one has attempted the ascent yet and therefore all the peaks remain untrodden. In addition an outstanding rock peak 5,654m closely south of the Chola Shan Pass is taken up as a peak worthy to introduce.

2. Gangga Massif – Shaluli Shan The massif stretches southeastwards from the Chola Shan to Garze town south of the Yalong Jiang, a large tributary of the River of Golden Sand (the upper Yangtze) The highest peak is Gangga 5,688m which was attempted by a Japanese party from Nagano Prefecture. Several attractive rock peaks of some 5,500m are clustered in the vicinity of Gangga. All the peaks remain unclimbed. Eric Teickman admired the grandeur of mountain range in his travel as a consular in 1918. [Note] A Chinese map shows that the Shaluli Shan range covers a vast area upto the Genyen massif and further Kongga Xueshan crossing the Litang Plateau but there would presumably be no definite boundary between the Shaluli Shan Range and the other ranges.

3. Gongkala Shan – Kawarani The two principal peaks Kawarani I 5,992m and II 5,928m soar 30km east of Ganzi town and the Yalong Jiang. Two Japanese parties and a British party tried to set up a base camp for reconnaissance and climbing, but hostile monks of a lamasery in the vicinity hindered their approach and have never allowed foreign visitors to climb the peaks because they believe that Kawarani are sacred mountains. Even in 2011 the situation did not change. The Ganzi Mountaineering Association did not issue a climbing permit to foreign expeditions.

4. Jarjinjabo Massif – Unclimbed Pk 5725 To my best knowledge almost all the prominent peaks except for the second highest peak 5,725m were already climbed. A Japanese party first climbed a rock tower soaring north of the Zhopu Pasture in 2001 and then adjacent rock peaks in the vicinity west of the Lake Zhopu were climbed by American parties. The highest peak, Garrapunsum 5,812m, was scaled by an Anglo-American party in October 2007. The party had an original plan to attempt Kawarani of Gongkara Shan but was unable to access to the mountain.

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Xiangqiuqieke Massif

This most unknown massif is located south of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway and northeast of Yangmolong Massif. It stretches west to east in about 20km and has 5,863m (called as Xiangqiuqieke), 5,870m, 5,767m, 5,702m, 5,595m and 5,562m. In October 2005, a Japanese party from Yamanashi Prefecture first approached to the northern side for reconnaissance. In July 2010 Tom Nakamura tried to make an access also from north, say, the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. In September 2011, a pair of Tim Church and Yvonne Pfluger from the New Zealand Alpine Club attempted on Xiangqiuqieke from the south side. Unfortunately, however, they were forced to resign to continue their ascent because the villagers refused a support to the NZ party after the base camp had been set up. As such, all the peaks remain unclimbed.

6. Yangmolong Massif This massif is situated about 16km east of Batang town. There are three principal peaks of Dangchechengla 5,833m climbed by a Japanese party in 2002, Yangmolong Central 6,033m (Makara) and the highest peak of Yangmolong 6,060m. The main summit was scaled by an American-Chinese party led by Jon Otto and filmed by Tim Boelter in October 2011 after repeated assaults by Japanese, British and American-Chinese parties. It is felt that the Yangmolong main summit is one of the toughest peaks in Sichuan. There was information that the Central Pk was climbed by a Korean party in 2002, but no detail record and evidence are found, and those who went to Yangmolong raise questions on the Koran ascent. In this article, therefore, the Central Peak is written as unclimbed. The other outstanding 5,850m peak also remains unclimbed.

7. Genyen Massif – Future Alpine Paradise The Genyen Massif covers a wide area in the Litang Plateau south of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway and in near future must be an Alpine paradise as it is now beginning to draw climbers᾽ attention. The main summit, Genyen 6204m, was first climbed by a Japanese party in 1988 and then an Italian party made the second ascent via a new route on the east face. Tthe second highest peak 5964m and Pk 5,716m (Sachun) seen from a historical lamasery, Rengo Gompa were also already scaled by American parties. Chalie Fowler and Christin Boskoff were lost in Genyen. However many challenging rock peaks of 5,500-5,900m peaks north and northeast of the Genyen remain untouched. These are: (1) Asa 5,800m and Ashagongge 5, 783m seen from the Sichaun-Tibet Highway passing through the Lintang Plateau. (2) Fantastic peaks of a granite castle Cameron 5,873m, Xiaozha 5,807m and other challenging peaks viewed from a high pass, Three Smith Brothers 4,800m, between Litang and Lamaya. (3) Rock peaks clustered just north of the Genyen and further north attractive peaks 5,838m and 5,784m and other several 5,700 – 5,900m peaks.

8. Kongga Xueshan (Kongkaling) Massif The Kongga Xueshan having three fascinating famous snowy peaks is located in Daocheng County. The area is worshiped as holy mountains among local Tibetan inhabitants and is now developing as a tourist place which is attracting hundreds of trekkers. However all of three peaks remain unclimbed. (1) Xiannariri 6,032m, the highest peak, was attempted by a Japanese party in 1989. 117

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(2) Stunningly beautiful pyramid of Yangmaiyong, Joseph Rock᾽s Jambeyang, 5,958m was reached by Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff to 500m below the summit (3) Xiaruduo 5,958m was once attempted by an American party. At present climbing of these peaks is not allowed by the local government of Daocheng County on account of the sacred religious mountains.

9. Lamoshe Massif – Daxue Shan Lamoshe was called by early explorers as Mountains of Tatsienlu , which is located closely east of Kangding (Tibetan name: Tatsienlu) town. The highest peak is Lamoshe and was first climbed by an American party in i993. The second ascent was soloed by a Czech climber in 2010. The other 5,800m peaks were already climbed by New Zealand, American, Canadian and Chinese parties, but the second highest peak, Baihaizishan 5,924m still remains unclimbed.

10. Minya Konka Massif – Daxue Shan No many peaks over 6,000m now remain unclimbed in this huge and largest mountain range of Daxue Shan in Sichuan. The outstanding unclimbed peaks among them are as follow from south to north. (1) Nyambo Konka 6,114m. An American party attempted this peak but was unsuccessful. (2) Mt. San Lian 6,684 (called as Longshan) / 6,468 / 6,368m three peaks which look hard to climb. (3) The highest unclimbed peak 6,858m in the massif closely southwest of the main summit Minya Konka 7,556m. (4) Pk 5,962m between Pk 5,960m (Donogomba) and Daddomain 6,380m. (5) Unnamed peaks of 6206m on the ridge between Mt. Edgar (E-Kongga) 6,618m and Grosvenor 6,376m. This peak is not alluring.

11. Qonglai Mountains All most all the peaks in the Qonglai Mountains including Mt. Siguniang 6,250m and surrounding 5,200 – 5,900m peaks have already been ascended and new routes have been opened on difficult rock peaks, as many climbers have been rushing to this mountain area in the last decade. According to information of Mr. Kenzo Okawa, a Japanese photographer, who works in the Mt. Siguniang National Park, the only unclimbed peak is Goromity 5,60 m, which was attempted by a Chinese party a couple of years ago and by a Japanese party in the summer of 2011.

12. Dadu He (River) Basin Many 5.300 – 5,700m peaks range along the both sides of Dadu He (River) Basin between Danba and Luding. However no climbing record is published. The highest peak is 5,712m on the left bank of the river valley, but details of the mountains in this area are unknown on account of lack of information.

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Chola Shan North, Sejong II 5,816m northwest face (Takao Ohe)

Chola Shon North, Sejong I 5,816m + (left), Nobuyugya 5,594m (right) north face (Takao Ohe)

Chola Shan North Pk 5,654m north face

Gangga 5.688m north face

Gangga massif 5,591m east face

Jarjinjabo 5,725m (right snow peak) south face seen from Zhopu Pasture 119

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Kawarani I 5,992m (right) & II 5,928m (left) southwest face (Takao Ohe)

Kawarani I 5,992m north face (Takao Ohe)

Xiangqiuqieke 5,863m south face (Tim Boelter)

Yangmolong Main Pk 6,060m (left) & Central Pk 6,033m (right) east ridge (Tim Boelter)

Yangmolong Central Pk (Makara) 6,033m (right) east face (Tim Boelter)

Yangmolong massif 5,850m northwest face (Tim Boelter)

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Litang Plateau, Asa 5.800m north face

Genyen massif ca. 5,600m east face (Katka Mandulova)

Genyen massif, Cameron 5,873m east face (Tomas Obtulovic)

Genyen massif 5,912m east face

Kongga Xueshan - Xiannairi 6,032m north face

Kongga Xueshan - Xiaruduo 5,958m west face 121

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Kongga Xueshan - Yangmaiyong 5,958m northwest face

Lamoshe massif, Baihaizishan 5,924m west face

Minya Konka massif - Mt. San Lian 6,684, 6,468, 6,368m (from right) east face (Zhang Shaohong)

Minya Konka massif, Nyambo Konka 6,114m west face (Pedro Detjen)

Qonglai Mountains Goromity 5,609m south face

Dadu He (River) basin, Pk 5,712m north face

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TATSUO (TIM) INOUE Book Review: Wind from a Distant Summit The First Ascent of Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805m The Story of New Zealand Leading Woman Mountaineer Autumn 2009 Expedition to the Kangri Garpo East Mountains, Tibet Patricia Deavoll (craig potten publishing, Nelson New Zealand 2011)

he subtitle of the book is a misnomer since Pat is one of the world᾽s top all round alpinists (man or woman) today redefining boundaries and breaking barriers of mind, body and soul in the vertical arena of high mountains. Of her climbing prowess, iron will and reckless passion the mountaineering world is aware but who would have imagined that she wielded equal finesse and grace with her pen! I am not sure if writing this book was a redefining period in Pat᾽s life but for the reader it would surely be a redefining experience as we climb sheer virgin faces of rock and ice with Pat, often fragile, broken, on the verge of collapse and all angled at gravity defying and death-defining dimensions. Was I glad that I was only accompanying Pat vicariously, sometimes inside her rucksack, sometime riding her helmet, peering Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng down white walls of glistening ice into the rugged wastelands of Alaska, Canadian Rockies, Karakoram, Himalaya, Tibet, Central Asia, and her very own Southern Alps, where she learnt her ropes and holds.

at Deavoll was raised on a farm in North Canterbury and educated in Christchurch. She began mountaineering in her late teens and, after a break when she also became one of New Zealand's leading whitewater kayakers, has continued to climb at the elite level for over three decades. She worked as an outdoor instructor for many years before retraining as a journalist. Currently she works as the Activities & Events Coordinator for the New Zealand Alpine Club in Christchurch.

at leads us through compelling storytelling on the journey of her life from the countryside following her passion for the outdoors; developing from a shy wobbly teenager into the woman she is today. We learn the elements that such high caliber extreme alpinists are made up of and what keeps them going. Her story is as much about her personal voyage of self discovery as it is an inspirational tale of grit and determination, failures and self-doubts and above all an embodiment of 130

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man᾽s never-say-die᾽ spirit. Pat᾽s climbs are incredibly and ludicrously steep and dangerous ice and rock faces around the world. And she climbs not to prove anything to anyone or for glory or for any misguided ego; she does it simply since she loves it and finds her true self up within those lofty pinnacles where even eagles fear to fly. This is a journey of self-discovery as much as a nail biting thriller that would inspire and motivate anyone from any field of work to go that extra length and to take that one step to achieve his ultimate goal.

hat makes Pat᾽s book a cut above such genre books by other elite alpinists are the chapters dedicated to such ethical and moral issues as gender bias, forging of a fulfilling partnership, bonding and finding friends in the most unlikely places, styles of climbing, Everest mortalities and usage of oxygen, etc. She literally shakes the hornet᾽s nest in matters few would dare to discuss publicly. She collects opinions and views from some of the world᾽s top climbers on such issues and adds her own; giving us an in depth understanding of a world few have the privilege or courage to explore.

hile talking about others, Pat is equally courageous to elaborate upon her own demons, both real and imaginary; her trials and tribulations, battle with clinical depression, sacrifices she did and continues to do; and this makes her and the book a human story of unparallel courage, tenacity and honesty. Her historical essays are well researched and she has added her wit to showcase the old through a fresh coat of interpretation and storytelling nuances.

at is a personal friend and I have had the rare privilege of sharing her rope on numerous occasions and so far I have only had admiration and respect for her climbing portfolio and regard her as a human with all qualities of being humane. On a bad ass climb, on a sheer face of hard ice, on a sustained long vertical pitch or on a dark stormy night on the verge of certain death, I would if I could, want Pat to be my partner and if not her then certainly her book by my side. When you are down and out and on the edge you need her passion, her enthusiasm and her climbing skills to see through your ordeal.

hoever you may be, and even if you hate climbing, this book is for you and for your kids and everyone you love since this is an eternal tale of man᾽s hunger for the unknown and the indomitable spirit of the human race. Let Pat be your guide and lead you through the adventure of life; you will never be the same again. (Satyabrata Dam)

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