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CONTENTS
CONTENTS
October 2015
ON THE COVER 52 High on Houston Bring an appetite to America’s larger-than-life Texan city
60 A New York waking dream Discovering what’s old, new and impossibly hip in New York City 70 California cruising A slow-paced road trip along the legendary Californian coastline
80 America’s birthplace, reborn Sip, shop and dine your way around historic Philadelphia
73 Tumbling onto the sand, McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park are one of the highlights along the Big Sur coastline
88 24 hours in Dallas Wine, dine and live it up in this happening Texan town 90 An insider’s guide to Seattle Exclusive tips from a local on America’s Pacific Northwest city
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速
Contents
contents
october 2015
In the news
26 Europe
New openings in Val d’Isère; shopping with London Marriott Hotel Park Lane; boutique suites in Santorini
28 Middle East & Africa EDITION hotel in Dubai; &Beyond Benguerra Island;
horseback safaris in Kenya
32 Asia & Oceania Qantas’s new global ambassador; Trump Hotel Collection in Bali; Karl Lagerfeld sets sights on Macau
36 Americas Miami’s megayacht marina; Marriott’s virtual reality experiences; Scott Dunn’s Chicago-to-Aspen ski trip
40 Debut Hot hotels, chic boutiques and exclusive new resorts
42 Diary This month’s pick of sporting, cultural and artistic events
44 VIP Rub shoulders with the who’s who of the art world at Frieze London
46 Interview Robert De Niro’s New York
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spend It 112 Escape
The best one-of-a-kind travel experiences money can buy from a wellness retreat in Saint Lucia to a Louboutin-inspired hotel stay
116 Essentials
125
This month’s pick of accessories to stay chic on your travels
118 Suite dreams A night at The Resort at Pelican Hill, Newport Beach, California
120 Ignition Road testing the 2015 Cadillac Escalade
124 On the road The latest from the Frankfurt Motor Show and Rolls-Royce’s new Dawn
126 Set sail Jacques Rougerie’s SeaOrbiter; Southern Wind’s Seawave; Heesen Yacht’s Azamanta
130 Out of this world A celebrity stay favoured by the redcarpet elite
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Contents
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95
108
Gourmet 94 Gourmet news Global culinary happenings this month
96 Taste of... Charleston Where to eat in America’s epicurean hotspot
100 Gourmet journey A chef’s guide to the best foodie experiences in Atlanta
102 Chef’s table An exclusive interview with culinary pioneer chef Alice Waters
106 Spirit of travel Experiencing New Orleans through its legendary cocktail, the Sazerac
108 Reservation A table at The Inn at Little Washington
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Letter from the editor I’m thrIlled to welcome you to our Inaugural u.S.a. SpecIal, our fIrSt edition devoted to surely one of the world’s most diverse and classic travel destinations. it would be inconceivable to have an American issue that didn’t feature the always-electric and inspiring new york city, which doesn’t have to try hard to draw travellers (page 60). if you need any more convincing however, there’s a little more New York love on page 46, where hollywood legend robert de niro waxes lyrical about his beloved triBeCa district. the well-heeled coastal haven of laguna Beach and off-the-radar central coast vineyards are just a few of the highlights in art editor Sarah freeman’s california roadtripping photoessay (page 70), while features writer and former resident Laurel munshower rediscovers what’s new in philadelphia (page 80), one of America’s lesser-known cities best known for the cliché trio of steak, cream cheese and the 72 stone steps before the entrance of the Philadelphia museum of Art, made famous by a certain Sylvester Stallone. What i found most interesting about putting together this issue was watching the gastronomic side of America emerging as an unintentional theme. today, bon vivant travellers are finding epicurean nirvana in food-focused cities like charleston (page 96) and new orleans (page 106) right through to the Southern city of atlanta (page 100). the dining scene in houston (page 52) is another revelation, which as writer Becca hensley discovers, is being driven by forward-thinking chefs like Chris Shepherd, who has such a passion for the city, he moonlights as an unofficial houston ambassador. We have an exclusive interview with chef alice waters (page 102), who pioneered the farm-to-table movement and continues to debunk the myth that American cuisine is all fast food and oreos. Along with Waters, it’s impossible not to be inspired by the country’s passionate chefs championing conscientious, sustainable cuisine, such as relais & Châteaux grand chef Patrick o’Connell, a culinary maverick who owns the Inn at little washington (page 108). Aside from all the US-of-A foodie fabulousness, the issue is brimming with luxury travel inspiration, whether it’s a road trip in a classic American car like the cadillac escalade (page 120), a tuscan-style stay in the heart of Newport Beach or a los angeles hotel (page 130) where the guest list reads like a celebrity roll call. As always, i hope you enjoy the issue and i wish you another month of inspiring travels.
download the latest digital edition of Destinations of the World News for ioS devices by scanning the Qr code or visiting www.dotwnews.com/app
Michelle Wranik-Hicks Editor michelle@dotwnews.com
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news
hOT eVeNTs, New hOTeLs AND gLObAL jeT seTTeRs
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golfer’s paradise Tee off with a PgA west golf Academy instructor at La Quinta Resort & Club, a waldorf Astoria Resort, one of the brand’s “Unforgettable experiences”
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Luxury travel news from around the world This month’s best new hotels A guide to the top events in October VIP at Frieze London Robert De Niro’s New York
News americas
Waldorf your Way
Most five-star hotels try to Make it seeM you’ll always
get your way, but Waldorf Astoria is taking things a little further to spoil its guests. The luxe hotel brand is offering “Waldorf Astoria Unforgettable Experiences” across 25 destinations with special perks such as private tennisclinic sessions with five-time U.S. Open champion Jimmy Connors, a meet and greet with three-Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck, after-hours tours of Florida
hilton looks to be following in the footsteps of starwood by cosying up with uber. the on-deMand transportation service will streaMline travel for guests, who can now set “ride reMinders” to ensure that travel connections don’t go awry, and there are even “local scene” guides for selected us cities. the partnership also benefits hhonors MeMbers who can score points with every ride
don’t Miss
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museums, and a session with a ski stylist to look razor sharp on the slopes of Utah. “Guests who book these experiences will have the opportunity to enjoy the world’s most sought-after locales in a more intimate and exclusive fashion,” explains Waldorf Astoria boss, John T.A. Vanderslice. Guests can now apply for the ultra-exclusive excursions at all 25 Waldorf Astoria properties, located mostly across North America.
Marriott keeps it unreal once upon a tiMe, the
pinnacle of cutting-edge service was the ability to order an Irish coffee at 3am. How times have changed. Excellence is de rigueur at any selfrespecting five-star hotel, but today’s affluent travellers are expecting more. That’s why Marriott Hotels has come up with its new VRoom Service – allowing guests to order inspiring virtual-reality experiences, all from the comfort of their room. Neatly following its “Teleporter” campaign – a virtual-reality booth
offering a glimpse into Marriott destinations with accompanying whiffs of coconut oil and salty air – the VRoom Service is being trialled at two properties, the New York Marriott Marquis and London Marriott Park Lane. Powered by Samsung technology, the headset enables guests to take virtual jaunts to the Andes Mountains in Chile, an ice cream shop in Rwanda and the bustling streets of Beijing. It sounds almost as good as actually getting out of your hotel room and exploring the real world… right?
NEWS AMERICAS
CENTRAL PEAK NEW YORK IS ABOUT TO REWRITE THE
coveted corner of the Monopoly board with the impending completion of 432 Park Avenue. New York’s tallest residential tower is due to be completed by spring next year, and this new picture reveals why it’s already the most exclusive address in town. The Rafael Viñoly-designed building will soar 425 metres above Park Avenue between 56th and 57th streets, packing 104 luxury residences within 96 floors. Aside from all the expected mod cons, the oversized three-by-three-metre windows will be the feature most likely to wow residents and visitors alike, framing iconic views over Central Park, the Hudson and East rivers, the Atlantic and many more Big Apple landmarks.
DEEP-DISH PISTER
FROM DEEP DISH TO DEEP POWDER, SCOTT
Dunn’s latest Chicago-to-Aspen itinerary looks like a great combo of big-city fun and ski action. The 10-night itinerary melds the best of two dichotomous worlds and kicks off with a three-night stint at The Peninsula Chicago. After seeing the Windy City from a stylish vantage point, it’s time to take to higher ground and have fun with gravity, hitting the slopes by day and enjoying American-style après ski at The
Little Nell each night. Guests can venture out from the chic ski-in/ski-out boutique-hotel lodge and enjoy carving up the mountains of Ajax, Snowmass and the Aspen Highlands, which is home to the Highland Bowl, a must-visit mountain formation for anyone hunting clean powder in Colorado. The “Windy City to Glitzy Slopes” itinerary arrives just as American Airlines launches its new direct flight between Chicago and Aspen.
MIAMI’S YACHTING SCENE GOES MEGA A FAR CRY FROM THE AIRBOATS OF THE
Everglades, Florida is looking to entice superyacht owners with a whopping new Miami facility. Deep Harbour is the first phase of Island Gardens, a luxury development that will house two luxury hotels, 100 homes and a total of 14 restaurants. Located on Watson Island on Biscayne Bay, the new marina will hold up to 50 megayachts (typically 50 metres or more) with 1,524 linear metres of capacity and should be up and running in time for December’s Art Basel Miami, way ahead of Upland Construction (the hotels, retail spaces and restaurants), which is slated for completion in 2018. The developers claim Deep Harbour to be North America’s only marina exclusively designed for megayachts.
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NEWS VIP
VIP
FRIEZE Frieze London and Frieze Masters return from October 14-18 with a feast of creative offerings. Frieze’s Middle East VIP consultant, Fiza Akram, walks us through some of this year’s highlights and can’t-miss sights and experiences
Stuart Shave/Modern Art (top) gallery at Frieze London 2014 Kurimanzutto gallery displays art by Mariana Castillo Deball at Frieze London 2014 (middle left); The Sunday Painter gallery will showcase Samara Scott’s “Harvest” installation (middle right) at Frieze London 2015 Highlights from the 2015 fairs include art by (bottom, left to right) Athena Papadopoulos; Rachel Harrison; Sam Gilliam courtesy of David Kordansky Gallery; and Roy Lichtenstein courtesy of Castelli Gallery The Frieze fairs attract an international crowd in The Regent’s Park (opposite page)
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NEWS VIP
Fiza Akram
◗ THE EVENT
For one week in October, over 300 of the world’s most important art galleries are brought to Frieze London (www.friezelondon.com) and Frieze Masters (www.friezemasters. com), two architect-designed structures in The Regent’s Park. Tens of thousands of visitors travel from across the world to view and acquire the most exciting, inspiring and high-quality art available globally. In a single visit you get a survey of art history, a unique insight into the art market and an unparalleled opportunity for collecting and networking.
◗ THIS YEAR
There are 10 world-renowned curators working across the feature sections and special-events programmes – such as Collections, a new section at Frieze Masters curated by Sir Norman Rosenthal, which brings together remarkable ensembles of art and objects, from coloured Roman marbles to rare portraits by David Bailey. There’s also a strong Middle Eastern presence, with galleries like The Third Line and Grey Noise from Dubai participating, as well as the Lebanese dealer Andrée Sfeir-Semler.
◗ AMBIANCE
Profile photo: Abbi Kemp
“TENS OF THOUSANDS OF VISITORS TRAVEL FROM ACROSS THE WORLD TO VIEW AND ACQUIRE THE MOST EXCITING, INSPIRING AND HIGH-QUALITY ART AVAILABLE GLOBALLY ”
We aim to make all visitors to the fairs have a meaningful encounter with art. Frieze encourages innovative presentations by galleries and artists, and they respond accordingly; as a result the fair is a place of discovery. With something new happening every day, you can feel that special kind of excitement throughout the week. This energy spreads across the whole city, with major exhibitions timed to coincide – this year there’s Ai Weiwei at the Royal Academy of Arts, and at the Whitechapel Gallery, Sultan Sooud Al Qassemi’s U.A.E.-based Barjeel Foundation reveals highlights from its outstanding collection of Arab art.
◗ RUB SHOULDERS WITH
Art collectors and enthusiasts come from all sectors. Over Frieze’s thirteen years, the fairs have welcomed everyone from Leonardo DiCaprio to Princess Eugenie, Roman Abramovich to Beyoncé and Jay Z. We believe in putting artists at the centre of the fair, so it’s always gratifying to see them visit: Tracey Emin and Wolfgang Tillmans have visited, among many others.
◗ STAY
The London EDITION (10 Berners St.; +44 20 7781 0000; www. editionhotels.com/london) is one of our partner hotels, offering contemporary style, service and comfort in a historic building. It’s very well located for the fairs.
◗ DINE
Every year there’s a mix of longstanding partners and hot new places from across London. Twelve acclaimed restaurants and bars are taking part this year, including Brunswick House, Caravan, The Arts Club and Ibérica. I think Frieze is the only art event in 2015 that can boast not just one but three Michelin-starred restaurants, as Locanda Locatelli, Petersham Nurseries and Umu are all hosting pop-ups for us.
◗ WEAR
The art and fashion worlds are interlinked – Gucci is an associate sponsor of Frieze Masters and is hosting a private champagne viewing of the fair this year, but there’s no dress code at Frieze. Since there’s so much art to explore, you’ll sometimes see seasoned collectors wearing sneakers!
◗ MUST DO
Download the app to get a map and plan your visit. As well as taking in the highlight galleries and special artist installations that make up Frieze Projects, take in one of our “Talks” with leading artists and curators, or participate in a workshop in our “Live” programme – like Trevor Shimizu’s portrait booth, where you can take a drawing of yourself away for free. Frieze London and Frieze Masters are just a short walk from each other, so take the time to visit both: you can visit the outdoor Sculpture Park, located in the beautiful English Gardens, on the way. If you’re interested in learning more about collecting, or expanding your own collection, we are launching a new service, “Bespoke” (friezebespoke.com), which pairs you with an independent specialist to introduce you to works, price ranges and important art dealers. Before you leave the fairs, buy a copy of Frieze Week, a new publication we’ve put together to give insight into the artists, collectors and sponsors that shape the fairs, as well as a guide to cultural events happening around Frieze, and insiders’ guides to London’s best spots.
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destinations
T h e w o r l d ’ s m o s T d e s i r a b l e l o c aT i o n s
CALIFORNIA HIGHS soaring 80 metres above a sheer canyon, bixby creek bridge on california’s central coast is one of the highest single-span arch bridges in the world.
Photo: Sarah Freeman
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culinary adventures in houston what’s new in new York city a california dreamin’ road trip Philadelphia: america’s birthplace, reborn 24 hours in dallas an insider’s guide to seattle
d e s t i n at i o n s h o u s t o n
high on
houston
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There’s a whole lot of truth behind the “big” moniker, but as Becca Hensley discovers, Houston is America’s biggest small town. Just don’t forget to bring a Texan-sized appetite
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Houston’s skyscrapers (here and previous page) reach heights as lofty as 75 storeys, and the city’s lack of zoning restrictions means that developers can build the giants in whichever part of town they feel best suits the building
“it dEfinEs thE pionEEr spirit, an idEology that advocatEs individuality, fEarlEssnEss and originality”
E
verything’s bigger in Texas? That’s a whale of a legend. But sometimes lore has legs – and don’t doubt that elephantine is a size Texans embrace with gusto. As the Lone Star State’s most populated city, strapping Houston leads the monster-sized mythos with its walloping zest for life. Once the domain of 10-gallon hats and platesized belt buckles, the Space City now has an edgier vibe. These days you’re just as likely to glimpse suede Gucci driving loafers, Lilliputian pocket squares and fedoras as you are cowboydude regalia. Groundbreaking chefs, pioneering artists, hipster farmers and denizens with a yen for ecology stir life into the mix. However, it’s H-Town’s newly trumpeted reputation as a culinary capital that beguiles me on a recent visit.
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Sizzling with humid summer heat, Houston, a port city on the state’s south-east coast, brings to mind a stove bursting with flaming pans. There’s actually steam rising from the pavement when I walk into Underbelly (1100 Westheimer Rd.; +1 713 528 9800; www.underbellyhouston.com), the gastronomic domain of recent James Beard Foundation award recipient, Chris Shepherd. Creatively adorned with jam jars and old-time cooking accoutrements, the buzzing restaurant is mobbed with diners. I see Shepherd, himself a teddy bear of a man, ushering a satisfied customer to the door. “Don’t come back,” he says, a statement which stops her (and me) in our tracks. Knowingly, she grins. A regular, the customer waits for what comes next. “Don’t come back until you’ve visited at least one of these restaurants owned by my friends,” Shepherd says, his grin as wide as Galveston Bay. Enamoured, she
nods her head obediently. Houstonians, it seems, will do just about anything that the venerable Shepherd suggests. A man on a mission, Shepherd has become Houston’s unofficial champion of the city’s rich, cultural diversity. He tells me about it over lunch, where I sample his indigenous, Houston-inspired cuisine. I nibble crunchy Korean-braised goat dumplings, armoured with a treacley topcoat that bursts in splinters of caramel flavours. I tuck into buttery biscuits, sopped in chicken gravy – the sort of dish every Texan’s grandmother attempted back in the day, but where those earnest grandmas failed, Shepherd nobly succeeds. His airy biscuits, light enough to take flight, make a sinful dipping partner with the creamy gravy. Finally, we share a slice of acidic, pudding-like vinegar pie, born from a recipe retrofitted from a vintage cookbook and bejewelled with Shepherd pizazz.
D e s t i n at i O n s h O u s t O n
Chef Chris Shepherd (right) of Underbelly Colourful servings of ingredients from local sources fill the “new-American Creole� menu at Underbelly (below) The Asia Society Texas Center (bottom) nurtures partnerships, education and understanding between the United States and Asia
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d e s t i n at i o n s n e w yo r k c i t y
a new york
waking dream Dreams certainly do come true in the concrete jungle where dreams are made of. Elizabeth Wentling spends a few days exploring the old and new in The City That Never Sleeps
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The iconic Empire State Building’s 102 storeys (above) stand sentinel over Manhattan; the Brooklyn Bridge crosses the East River as the sun sets on a city literally glowing with an evening full of life (previous page)
ew York City possesses the same qualities found in the comfort of an old friend and the thrill of a new flame. It enraptures its visitors with an intensity that’s difficult to rival and impossible to forget. It’s not just the cutting-edge fashion, the out-of-this-world cuisine or the overflow of fivestar real estate that makes it a hotbed of opulence. Rather, it is a rich combination of these factors. It’s my fourth visit to New York City. My 2010 inaugural voyage consisted of crossing the Brooklyn Bridge, notching up a Yankees game, visiting Little Italy and – offensive tourist behaviour but a rite of passage – drinking cosmopolitans. On my latest trip, I was determined to understand how New York City delivers its signature sense of heritage mingled with modernity so flawlessly. The term “old world” isn’t quite applicable, but in The City That Never Sleeps, history is always around the corner, often juxtaposed by cutting-edge architecture.
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In the birthplace of modern American luxury, New Yorkers place weighty value on maintaining the city’s iconic history, while consistently embracing the new. Want to see European masterpieces from the 16th century or abstract art created within the last decade? Easy. Want to dine on classic dishes of lobster or rib-eye steak, or sample the latest in fusion cuisine? Done. The same applies to accommodation, which is where my journey begins.
Fit For a queen or a rap king When it comes to high-end hotels, New York City has an irrefutable reputation for offering an array of classy-cool places to bed down for the night. My first stop is modern boutique property The London NYC, just a hop, skip and a (very crowded) jump from Times Square and Central Park. Set within a neighbourhood central to the bigcity chaos of Midtown Manhattan, The London NYC is an embodiment of what it means to escape from it all, with a dimly lit lobby adorned with
strikingly handsome front-desk staff, and even more attractive floral arrangements. The relative (and deliberate) darkness in the lobby means it’s difficult to identify other guests, though a quick Google search reveals the celebrities who’ve passed through the all-suite abode: Rick Ross, Demi Lovato and Kaley Cuoco are just a few who have been snapped exiting the Dave Collins-designed hotspot. This is the club you’ll want to join. This is the back room at the house party where the cool clique finds solace. From my 34th-floor suite, I swoon over the brilliant green of Central Park peeking between grey towers. Shiny silver lamps and wine-coloured, crushed-velvet sofas highlight walls papered with metallic renaissance print. Throw in the floorto-ceiling grey marble in the bathroom and the Gordon Ramsay restaurant downstairs, and the term “quintessentially British” springs to mind. It’s as though Austin Powers’s interior designer collaborated with James Bond’s stylist, and they created an aesthetic so “London cool” that it
D e s t i n at i o n s n e w Yo r k c i t Y
Some of New York City’s most famous streets intersect in vibrant Times Square (above) The Upper East Side outpost of Bloomingdale’s (left) offers a treasure trove of fashionable items to fill that “little brown bag” Sip on a martini shaken, not stirred, at Brit-mod London Bar (below left) and, unlike the surrounding city, slip into an indulgent sleep in The London Penthouse (below right), both at The London NYC The London NYC’s Vista Suites showcase spectacular views that stretch across Manhattan from Central Park to the Hudson River (bottom)
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D e s t i n at i o n s n e w Yo r k c i t Y
Ablaze with LED billboards, Times Square’s intense lights pierce the night-time sky (top) The who’s-who of international high society have passed through the Park Avenue entrance of the Waldorf Astoria New York (above right) to stay in the hotel’s Presidential Suite (above left) The Waldorf Astoria’s ornate Silver Corridor (opposite page) is situated on the third floor and connects the hotel’s grand ballrooms
seems the only thing American about this hotel is its physical address. Subtle and luxurious, two nights at The London NYC quenches my thirst for new-age architecture. I feel like a British spy on a New York mission. Next, I head to the nearby Waldorf Astoria New York, where it takes all of two nights for the definition of glamour to reveal itself to me. Views of the Chrysler Building beckon from my window, almost everything is monogrammed in gold and my hair smells like Salvatore Ferragamo’s latest fragrance after showering with the brand’s custom amenities. It’s obvious the Waldorf Astoria New York has been doing this for a very long time. Of all the iconic pockets in the hotel, I’m staying in the Towers, adjacent to the Presidential Suite. Next to the double doors of this politician-
preferred accommodation is a golden plaque inscribed with the names of royals who have slept over: Queen Elizabeth II, numerous kings of Saudi Arabia and Spain, Emperor and Empress Hirohito of Japan, and general Charles de Gaulle of France, among others. The “King of American Rap”, Rick Ross, however, is nowhere to be found. Also appearing on the plaque is a false prophecy. The first line of the guest list reads: “Every President of the United States (Since 1931)”. However, breaking presidential tradition, President Barack Obama is yet to stay in the New York landmark since Hilton Worldwide Holdings sold the hotel for a reported US $1.95 billion to Beijing-based Anbang Insurance Group. Rumour has it the President’s reluctance stems from the fear of Chinese spies bugging the building.
It’s a juicy thought, and one that seems fitting for a hotel where images of icons like Marilyn Monroe and Jacqueline Onassis wearing haute couture hang on the walls. The sense of history sends chills down my spine as I tour the hotel with Waldorf Astoria’s social-media manager, Melissa Howard. She shows me stunning spaces such as the Empire Room – a ballroom where The Rolling Stones, Edith Piaf, Lena Horne and Bette Midler have performed. In the Starlight Room, where jazz-legend Ella Fitzgerald sang, sunlight creeps through the window onto worn carpet and fantastical silver décor. “Sinatra got his start here,” Howard tells me. “He actually used to live here.” Her eyes gleam when she speaks of the faint possibility of the new owners restoring the room to its original glory, when the roof opened up and
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partygoers danced under the stars, revealing the origin of the ballroom’s name. All corridors, vestibules, suites and ceilings possess materials of the finest calibre: gold, silver, bronze and marble; mosaics crafted with painstaking detail and murals created years ago. The art deco style is impervious to time, making the Waldorf Astoria New York more like a museum that happens to double as a hotel.
Having an art attack Over the course of four action-packed days, I attempt to fill each hour with as much worldclass entertainment and art as my CityPASS (www.citypass.com/new-york) can provide. If you don’t happen to be besties with Anthony Bourdain, The Official New York City Guide (www.nycgo.
com) is an ideal alternative to planning your trip like a true insider. During my visit I have access to six of the city’s most iconic attractions, including the Empire State Building (350 5th Ave.; +1 212 736 3100; www.esbnyc.com), Top of the Rock (30 Rockefeller Center; +1 212 698 2000; www.topoftherocknyc.com) and the heralded Metropolitan Museum of Art (1000 5th Ave.; +1 212 535 7710; www.metmuseum.org). The Met is my first stop, where I discover New York’s artistic roots. Built in 1880 with additional wings constructed in later years, each room is profound. I question the probability of being in a waking dream while I wander through a vast collection of Egyptian antiquities. As I float from the European gothic era to a van Gogh exhibit, and on to one of the world’s most comprehensive
Islamic art collections, the intense concentration of wondrous objects is intoxicating. Only blocks away, the Guggenheim Museum (1071 5th Ave.; +1 212 423 3500; www.guggenheim. org) offers a seamless transition between artistic periods. Approaching the 1943-built façade, you get the impression of boarding a spaceship – a unique sentiment Frank Lloyd Wright, the visionary architect who designed the Guggenheim, set out to achieve. Despite the criticism of the building overpowering the art, he wrote: “On the contrary, it was to make the building and the painting an uninterrupted, beautiful symphony such as never existed in the world of art before.” For my final dose of must-see art, I visit the Whitney Museum of American Art (99 Gansevoort St.; +1 212 570 3600; www.whitney.org), which
The spacey Lloyd Wright-designed façade of the Guggenheim Museum (above); the new Whitney Museum of American Art (top right) is nestled in the hopping Meatpacking District and next to the innovative High Line park; the Sphinx of Hatshepsut (bottom right) is one of 26,000 Egyptian artefacts that can be seen in The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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D e s t i n at i o n s n e w Yo r k c i t Y
The windows of Dante (above) preserve some of the heritage from its storied century as Caffe Dante Colourful cocktails (centre and far right) and creamy burrata with a slow-roasted tomato (below) are a small part of Dante’s Italian-tinged menu
“new yorkers place weighty value on maintaining the city’s iconic history, while consistently embracing the new” recently moved into a new building designed by “starchitect” Renzo Piano. Spanning some 4,645 sqm of indoor galleries and 1,207 sqm of outdoor space, views of the Hudson River and Manhattan neighbourhoods, such as SoHo and Chelsea, are reason enough to have lunch on the Whitney’s terrace – yet important works by Andy Warhol, Ansel Adams, Jeff Koons, William H. Johnson and Marina Abramovic are not to be ignored. Although the Whitney is not part of the CityPASS package, its combination of fresh aesthetics and revolutionary American art makes it a mandatory stop.
wine, Dine, repeat Culinary achievements are apex in New York City, and for Michelin-star dining experiences, only the best will do. Options include “upscale-American” Eleven Madison Park (11 Madison Ave.; +1 212 889 0905; www.elevenmadisonpark.com), where the inventive haute cuisine is mind-blowing. The Momofuku collective, started by New York chef and local favourite David Chang, offers Asian-
tinged new-American fare at Má Pêche (15 W 56th St.; +1 212 757 5878; www.momofuku.com), the collective’s only Midtown eatery, and a standout one at that. However, the meal I’ll savour for months to come is dinner at Dante NYC (79-81 Macdougal St.; +1 212 982 5275; www.dante-nyc.com). After the 100-year-old Caffe Dante closed its doors earlier this year, the Greenwich Village restaurant, so steeped in history, was bought and revamped by Australian Linden Pride of Figure of 8 Hospitality. Though Pride and co. have been careful to maintain the old-school hangout’s historic elements and culture (past visitors include Whoopi Goldberg, Al Pacino and Bob Dylan), the food and cocktail menu now consists of crudos, curious appetisers and a mouth-watering hanger steak. Grazing freely and al fresco on my tiramisu, I keep my eyes peeled for celebrity sightings, but something more interesting happens. Two sexagenarian couples sit down within earshot. They order a mix of cocktails, coffee and
dessert, and nostalgically recount (in thick New York accents) the details of the endless nights spent at Caffe Dante, where they smoked, drank, dined and joked. Did they ever see Pacino? Do their current negronis hold a candle to ones past consumed? And why did they choose this restaurant, when Macdougal Street is overflowing with options? Of all the restaurants in Manhattan, perhaps their fondness for Dante stems from the palpable sense of history mingled with the now – New York City’s signature.
stay walDorf astoria new York +1 212 355 3000 www.waldorfnewyork.com the lonDon nYc +1 212 307 5000 www.thelondonnyc.com dotwnews.com october 2015
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CalIfoRNIa CRUISING
From the rugged beauty of the Big Sur to the sun-kissed Orange County, Sarah Freeman takes the slow lane on the ultimate California road trip Words and Photography: sarah Freeman
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he Great American Road Trip – it’s a long-standing rite of passage. And when it comes to Central and Southern California, there is no better way to experience its natural wonders, iconic cities and connect to its cultural identity than from behind the wheel of an automobile. But if you’re used to a fast-paced drive, take note: This is one road trip where you’ll want to take your time. After all, this is about the journey, not the destination. Start your slow-paced exploration of Monterey County’s Carmel-by-the-Sea – a quaint coastal town that marks the northernmost point of the soul-stirring Big Sur. Hit Highway 1 and get ready for the drive of your life – cutting through jagged cliffs that plunge into the Pacific, and pausing to take in scenic viewpoints, blustery beaches and wildlife refuges along the way. Continue on the serpentine drive as far south as San Simeon, which marks the end of the Big Sur, to witness elephant seals frolicing in the sand. Then head inland to wine country via Highway 46 to discover vineyards and olive groves in picturesque Paso Robles, before taking the historic Highway 101 to San Luis Obispo’s Midwestern vibes. Continue on to the Dutch enclave of Solvang for a snapshot of Scandinavia, before making the scenic drive through the rolling hills of Highway 154 to Santa Barbara, soaking up its Mediterranean coastal vibe. Hit up the Pacific 101 to feel the ocean breeze once more and make a pit stop at Malibu’s celebrity haunt, Geoffrey’s, for lunch with a view. Next, the bright lights of L.A. are where you can get acquainted with the city’s dynamic art scene, shop up a storm on Rodeo Drive and scale heights at Getty Center and Griffith Observatory for the best panoramas of the city. For the final leg of your Cali road trip, head south to Orange County’s Newport Beach for some artistic immersion at Laguna Beach, al fresco shopping at glamorous Fashion Island and epicurean encounters at one of Orange County’s swankiest hotels.
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BiG sUR-PRise San Simeon’s elephant seal rookery (www.elephantseal.org) really has to be seen to be believed. Hunted nearly to extinction for their oil-rich blubber, thousands of these behemoths now colonise the secluded beaches near the Piedras Blancas Light Station, migrating thousands of kilometres to the same spot twice a year. You can marvel at these giants lolling in the sand just a few kilometres south of Hearst Castle.
CoastaL CRUisinG With the Pacific Ocean crashing below and the Santa Lucia Mountains looming hundreds of metres above, The Big Sur, which stretches 145 kilometres between San Simeon and Carmel-by-the-Sea, is one of the world’s most ruggedly beautiful, unspoiled stretches of coastline. The classic all-American drive down Highway 1 clings to the mountains, dropping to sea level before soaring to a height of more than 300 metres. More than just a scenic drive, it has a cultural and spiritual identity, attracting the likes of film stars, artists, musicians and poets, including Ansel Adams, Hunter S. Thompson and Jack Kerouac. If you have the time, drive at a leisurely pace, stretch those legs with a hike in Point Sur State Historic Park, spend a few lazy hours on Pfeiffer Beach, and devour an oyster lunch in charming Carmel.
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Join us every Friday, 12.30pm - 4.30pm, for a sharing brunch with classic Belgian cuisine and upbeat entertainment with some 1920s flair. ‘Prohibition’ package AED 295 (soft beverages) ‘Jazz Hands’ package AED 395 (full beverage package) For reservations please telephone 04 372 2323 Café Belge, The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC facebook.com/cafebelgedifc
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SWEET TREATS america’s dining hotspot Charleston is flush with restaurants like edmund’s oast, where skipping dessert is unacceptable
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gourmet news from around the world dining around Charleston a chef’s foodie guide to atlanta Culinary pioneer chef alice Waters new orleans and the Sazerac cocktail review: the inn at little Washington
g o u r m e t c h e f ’ s ta b l e
ueen of cuIsIne
the founder and chef of chez Panisse in berkeley, california, Alice Waters is one of the world’s most influential food pioneers. Inspired by her travels to france, she continues to explore the world, one delicious dish at a time
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Interview: Elizabeth Wentling
here’s a small fine-dining restaurant on a hill in Berkeley, California named Chez Panisse. At a glance, the two-storey wooden cabin looks like a rustic home, but it is in fact the bedrock of a movement – a culinary “unicorn” and the birthplace of “California cuisine”, a style of food that conjures up terms like “organic” and “granola”. But every stereotype has an origin. Alice Waters, the executive chef and founder of Chez Panisse, is the “farm-to-table” pioneer. Since day one her manifesto has focused on sourcing everything from local producers to cooking with seasonal ingredients – an innovative culinary approach that captured the hearts of foodies long before “foodie” was even a term. For Waters, the experience of studying abroad in her twenties was the turning point in her culinary path. “It was about learning how to eat,” she says. “It was really an awakening that began with a baguette and some apricot jam. I travelled and ate oysters on the half shell on the beaches of Brittany. I absorbed the wonderful markets on every corner, and when I came back from France I wanted to live like the French, and that’s what I tried to do.” In 1971, a time when the American diet consisted of frozen dinners and loaves of white Wonder Bread, Waters opened the doors of her restaurant. Fast food was standard, easy and instantly gratifying. At the absolute other end of the spectrum was Alice Waters and Chez Panisse. Waters built an establishment that formed a movement and influenced a nation. In the age of celebrity chefs and franchising, she stayed true to her purpose, which had nothing to do with fame or fortune, and everything to do with fresh food and feeding children. This makes Waters a “chef’s chef”, and according to Time magazine in 2014, one of the world’s 100 Most Influential People.
School Yard project [Waters’s initiative to help local schools grow food on campus]. They eat lots of fruits and vegetables that are affordable – all of these ideas are so vital to feeding children and they come from the Middle East. I’ve also spent a lot of time in Italy, which aside from France, has been my greatest inspiration. The slow-food movements in Sicily, and particularly the south of Italy, have greatly influenced me and I’ve been the vice president of the movement [Slow Food International] in the past. I’m always appreciating the biodiversity I find in other countries, and I have to say, I was surprised by what I found in Australia. The cooking is greatly influenced by spices from India and China, and because the country is surrounded by water, it’s interesting to me what type of fusion reveals itself. The way they use spices feels akin to Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine. They sprinkle spices and seeds here and there, whether it’s a taste of sesame, sumac or turmeric.
Your time in France contributed to the narrative of your career. Are there any other destinations that have influenced you over the years? Absolutely – without a doubt. I could not have envisioned the concept of Chez Panisse without understanding the hospitality of Turkey and Greece. I was really surprised by the way people take care of you there. They would give gifts and never expect anything in return. They’d invite us into their homes and give their friendship alongside a meal. Subsequently I went to Japan, and it has majorly influenced Chez Panisse, and continues to. Many of our chefs have spent a lot of time there, and Japan’s orientation to seasonality is something terribly important to us. When I visited the first time, I felt validated by the way the Japanese change almost all of their dishes to match the seasons. It’s quite amazing when you eat food completely in season. The Middle East and the Mediterranean have also played a part. I’m very attracted to North Africa. The Lebanese and Persians had enormous influence on our Edible
What are some of your favourite destinations? I love going to the islands around the Mediterranean Sea. Sardinia and Sicily have a rich gastronomic history and so much beauty. I’ve travelled through the interior and it’s those small places, much like Candelaria in Tenerife, where you feel like you can get away from the maddening crowd. This is where I try to visit.
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Do you feel the definition of fine dining has evolved since you’ve opened Chez Panisse? From the very beginning we were always looking for taste, and the most important influence on Chez Panisse is the local organic farmers and ranchers. Because the biodiversity of their gardens has evolved, it has become an amazing culinary experience for anyone dining with us. I think the idea of farm-to-table has absolutely entered the world of fine dining, and people expect it and demand it. For example, Thomas Keller [The French Laundry, Per Se] has his own farm and is extremely particular about where he sources his food. These days, the experience of travelling and visiting other countries has become about eating the local food, and I think a lot of these small restaurants are doing that – and offering an unforgettable atmosphere.
Can you recall any outstanding luxury experiences you’ve had while travelling? Luxury for me is authenticity, and when I travel I’m obviously looking for the food in a place to be pure. I’m looking for a place that’s quiet and peaceful, and I’ve been very lucky to have stayed in some incredible destinations. I’ll never forget staying at the American Academy in Rome, which sits atop a hill overlooking the city. Don’t get me wrong: I love an incredible bathtub but now I look for charming little hotels that are located near exquisite parts of a destination, like proximity to nature. The personality of a hotel is what draws me in.
“The most important influence on Chez Panisse is the local organic farmers and ranchers. Because the biodiversity of their gardens has evolved, it has become an amazing culinary experience for anyone dining with us�
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A NEW DAWN rolls-royce has taken its proverbial tie off with the unveiling of dawn, the British marque’s striking new convertible coupe
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Bentayga: Burning Bright Following months oF speculation and tantalising multimedia releases, Bentley finally unveiled its first sUV at the Frankfurt motor show last month. the Bentayga combines performance with everyday usability – the latter not being a typical hallmark of such a luxurious motor. the British marque gave a sneak peek of its inaugural sUV earlier this year, explaining the etymology of taiga, the world’s largest transcontinental snow forest that spans Russia, scandinavia, Alaska and Canada. the car, which also incorporates the first four letters of Bentley, takes some inspiration from the peak of the Roque Bentayga in gran Canaria, the subtropical Canary island.
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the all-new twin-turbocharged 6-litre w12 power train ensures the Bentayga is both fast and powerful in addition to now being the most exclusive sUV in the world. with interiors handcrafted in Britain, the automotive cabin is both robust and precise with detailing in metal, wood and leather, all thanks to the team in Crewe. the Bentayga is “truly the Bentley of sUVs”, according to wolfgang Dürheimer, Bentley’s chairman and chief executive. “it redefines luxury in the sUV sector and offers a genuine Bentley experience in any environment, thanks to a combination of unparalleled attention to detail,
go-anywhere ability and cutting-edge technology,” he says. the sUV will start from Us $229,100 in the American market but prices will bump up depending on your choice of luxury accessories, none more fascinating than the optional Breitling mulliner tourbillon clock. some are already estimating the timepiece will be worth around $234,000 – more expensive than the base model Bentayga itself. Bentley has built an unusual mechanism that will spin the clock around three times every 15 minutes. And just to be sure – or simply to impress friends – a motorist will have a button to tap to spin the mechanical watch at will.
spend it motoring news
Lotus puts a ring on it
Bugatti’s Vision The powers aT BugaTTi vowed noT to release the next model until all 450 cars in the veyron series were sold. That time has come. once confined to pixels in a playstation video game, the French hypercar brand’s vision gran Turismo is now a bona fide carbon-fibre racing concept. The design is an homage to the carmaker’s racing roots in the 1920s and ‘30s, nodding to numerous Le Mans winners, but is also a vision of the future and precedes the unveiling of the next Bugatti super sports car “in the
not too distant future,” according to the company’s president. The “virtual” car is aptly loaded with tech, with two displays for the driver, both of which are convex for improved readability. The display on the steering wheel shows all relevant vehicle information at a glance, while the second steering-column display combines the images from the three cameras mounted on the exterior of the vehicle, providing the driver with a better overview and a safer driving experience.
gerMany’s nürBurgring has long been the crucible on which drivers test their mettle – and carmakers showcase their metal. so when a plucky debutant tackles the 5.148-km circuit within the elusive seven-minute mark, the world sits up and takes notice. The new Lotus 3-eleven did just that when it recorded one of the “fastest ever” drives of the circuit, proving Lotus’s statement that it will be the company’s quickest and most powerful production road car ever – once it gets delivered in april next year. The supercar notched up over 2,000 kilometres of circuit testing in germany but Lotus is being coy about what that special lap time is since other cars were present on the track. The race version is expected to sell from us $180,000.
Chasing Dawn roLLs-royce Made iTs own Foray into the digital realm last month when it previewed the new dawn via a live online broadcast. The announcement was swiftly followed by two preview editions arriving in dubai and Frankfurt, where motor fans and potential buyers could marvel at the vivid orange upholstery and immaculate handfinished interiors. in fact, aside from the moody night-sky tint coat, everything is completed by hand – including the flawless coachline, drawn by one steady-handed individual at goodwood. The four-seater super-luxury drophead stands apart from its brethren in various ways. From the “silent ballet” of the dawn’s immense roof (which silently retracts at speeds up to 50 kph) to the waterfall of wood on the deck, dash and door panels, the car already has a waiting list that will not dim until the latter part of 2017. That’s rather impressive for almost three tons of car that’s worth upwards of us $389,000. in the words of rolls’s enigmatic ceo, Torsten Mueller-oetvoes: “Quite simply, it is the sexiest rolls-royce ever built”.
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