DOTWNews May 2015 issue

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May 2015

SCANDI-CHIC IN

SAN FRANCISCO THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXPERIENCES

STOCKHOLM

ULTIMATE

LANGKAWI

BALI

A NATURAL BEAUTY

MUSCAT

WHERE TO EAT, SPA AND STAY

A LUXURY WEEKEND BREAK

Greek Island

Odyssey FIND YOUR PERFECT ISLAND

NEW-SEASON WATCHES

DAZZLING JEWELS

SUPERYACHTS

LUXURY CARS



CONTENTS

CONTENTS

May 2015

ON THE COVER 78 A Greek Island Odyssey Foodies, culturalists – islands for all kinds of travellers 92 Natural Langkawi Natural beauty abounds in this Malaysian archipelago 104 Bay of Plenty Why San Francisco is the new Californian go-to 116 Luxury Muscat Golf, opera and a luxury stay – Oman’s capital has it all

128 Ultimate Bali Fine dining, blissful spas, the many spoils of Indonesia’s island paradise 152 Scandi-chic Stockholm From ABBA to fika, a 24 hour itinerary to the Swedish city

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Luxury at sea

Spirituality, spas and even luxury yachting aboard the Silolona awaits in Bali

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@amillafushi

amillafushi

@amillafushi


Contents May 2015

In the news

48 Europe

Waldorf Astoria’s supercar package; Bentley Suite at The St. Regis Istanbul; Aman Spa’s mindful meditation

50 Middle East & Africa Ammam art history; Dubai watersport toys and a gorilla safari in the Democratic Republic of Congo

54 Asia & Oceania New Zealand cruising, Hideaway relaunch in the Maldives and luxury shopping in Kuala Lumpur

58 Americas Vivienne Westwood suite at The London West Hollywood; EKOCYCLE at W Hotels Worldwide

62 Debut Hot hotels, chic boutiques and exclusive new resorts

66 Diary This month’s pick of sporting, cultural and artistic events

70 VIP Mingle with the delegates at the Milan World Expo in Italy

72 Interview

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The legendary Sir David Attenborough

spend It 182 Suite dreams

Middle East meets West at the Four Seasons Hotel Beirut

184 Escape The best one-of-a-kind travel experiences money can buy, from heliskiing in the US to Moroccan palace stays

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188 Essentials This month’s pick of accessories to stay chic on your travels

192 Spa review Hamman bliss at the Talise Ottoman Spa at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray

194 Ignition Behold the Lamborghini Huracan

198 On the road Meet the Porsche Boxter Spyder, the 2016 Jaguar XF and Cadillac’s CT6

204 Set sail Heesen’s Sibelle, Arcadia’s Arcadia 85, summer sailing charters and the X-EASY Pastrovich concept

210 Out of this world Board a private jet with Al Pacino

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Contents

May 2015

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160

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GourMet 160 Taste of... Sicily Discover south-eastern Sicily’s many culinary draws

164 Restaurant news Spotlight on Bangkok and first class fare with Qantas

168 Gourmet journey A chef’s guide to the best foodie experiences in Copenhagen

170 Chef’s table Chef Jose Pizarro on tapas and last-minute career changes

174 Spirit of travel A journey through Italy’s Campania region with limoncello

177 Reservation A table at the Michelin-starred Gaig in Barcelona

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news euro

Waldorf’s supercar salad Supercar fanS can have the ride of their life with Waldorf astoria Hotels & resorts, which is reprising its supercar package for the second year running. Waldorf astoria Driving experiences can be taken across 12 properties in europe, north america and the uae. The initiative kicks off May 15 at Trianon palace Versailles, a Waldorf astoria Hotel in Versailles, offering access to new ferrari, McLaren, Lamborghini, and porsche models, tips from experienced racing professionals, and the opportunity to drive along beautiful pre-determined routes, giving guests a truly unforgettable day on the road. Belgian racecar driver Vanina Ickx will be on hand to help guests with the McLaren Mp412c, porsche GT3, or any other supercar of their choosing, with Didier Theys returning as the americas Driving Director and eric Van De poele arriving as the uae tutor. “expanding the Waldorf astoria Driving experiences in 2015 is a great next step in bringing truly unforgettable moments to travellers all around the world,” said John Ta Vanderslice, global head of Waldorf astoria Hotels & resorts. “car lovers will relish the opportunity to drive these cars the way they were meant to be driven - on the open road and in the most stunning locales around the world”

don’t miss

Naught but rest

On-THe-GO execuTIVeS and frazzled travellers now have the option of lunchtime meditation classes at The connaught, courtesy of the aman Spa’s dedicated therapists. The Maybourne Hotel Group is offering complimentary 20-minute mindfulness meditation classes around lunchtime to raise awareness on the benefits it has for coping with stress and anxiety in the workplace. Visitors can escape the Big Smoke in the cool shade and dim light of a private treatment room, where mobile devices must be relinquished – no question. “Meditation encourages you to observe your emotions, which improves awareness of the present moment, bringing clarity and peace,” says aman Spa manager rene Van eyssen. The classes are available weekdays at 1pm and last 20 minutes. classes are complimentary but must be booked in advance.

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NEWS EURO

BENTLEY ON THE BOSPHORUS EUROPE’S FIRST BENTLEY SUITE has arrived at The St. Regis Istanbul, following the muchlauded New York edition, featuring a similar array of hand-crafted wonders from Bentley HQ in Crewe, England. The suite unites craftsmanship and luxury with its curvaceous design, inspired by the Bentley Continental GT. An expansive balcony overlooks Maçka Park with views extending to the Bosphorus and the city. The vibrant vista can also be enjoyed from the large terrace space, with a bespoke built-in sofa crafted from Bentley leather, featuring two champagne bottle coolers and diamond upholstery beneath an intricate light installation based on the Continental’s headlights, illuminating the contours of the Nürburgring racetrack around the room. The living room, bedroom and other spaces feature bespoke details derived from classic Bentley features, such as his-and-hers jewellery boxes and the bedroom’s chaise lounge. The marque’s iconic matrix grille also appears in abstract form, captured in wool and silk in the lush, crafted rug. The bed base, tailor-made from burgundy hide and bright engine spin, houses a large signature St. Regis bed providing a touch panel and portable iPad for fingertip temperature and lighting controls.

Superyacht rendezvous in Montenegro SUPERYACHT RENDEZVOUS MONTENEGRO will follow on from previous editions of the event in Monaco over the last 25 years, welcoming an array of stunning vessels to the three-day event July 2-5. Registered superyachts include the 50-metre Exuma and Heesen vessels, 47.5-metre Blue Ice by Palmer Johnson and the 47-metre Heesen.“The relocation of the Superyacht Rendezvous from Monaco promises to be a fresh take on an old classic. We look forward to welcoming the world’s most impressive luxury yachts to start the season in style in Montenegro,” explained Victoria Lister, commercial director of Boat International Media.

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Section title

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News INtervIew

Wild InTo The

Veteran broadcaster Sir David Attenborough has spent decades travelling the globe documenting the earth’s most spectacular wildlife, and he’s seen it all, from the Galapagos Islands to the Kalahari Desert. There is however, one place that stands out

Interview: Shaun Curran

T

here are travellers – and then there is Sir David Attenborough. Famed for his documentaries, the veteran broadcaster has dedicated more than 60 years to unearthing all that he can about the natural world, witnessing the sort of natural spectacles that most of us can merely dream of. From the Amazon to the North Pole and back, Attenborough has seen it all. Even at 88, his passion for discovery remains undimmed. “The world is a marvellous place,” he says, “And everything, everywhere has its own beauty and wonder. I love the travelling aspect of my job. Imagine flying from Africa to Asia in quick succession. That’s my reality.” Few have travelled the world like Attenborough, who is intimately acquainted with the luxurious elements of travelling, along with its most physically demanding extremes. He has seen countless changes in tourism habits since he presented his first nature programme in 1954, including the growth of travellers searching for meaning and self-enhancement. “There’s still a lot of people that want to go and

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destinations

T h e w o r l d ’ s m o s T d e s i r a b l e l o c aT i o n s

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bridge of the bay The glittering Golden Gate bridge is the city’s icon, but there’s so much more to discover in san Francisco

78 92 104 116 128 152 154

Greek islands for all kinds of travellers natural malaysia – a langkawi photoessay discovering the city of san Francisco a luxury break in muscat, oman Ultimate bali: spas, stays and more 24 hours in stockholm an insider’s guide to dubai


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Greek Island

Odyssey

Whether you seek romance in Santorini, cuisine in Chios, or a historic immersion in lesser-known Kastellorizo, there’s a Greek island to suit every mood, writes Marissa Tejada.

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D e s t i n at i o n s g r e e k i s l a n D s

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Romantic mykonos

Romantic santoRini

Private jets, yachts and helicopters are all part of the jetset migration that flocks to Mykonos each summer, and all that glamour and energy means romantic atmospheres are easy to come by. Gourmet restaurants featuring celebrity Greek chefs offer romantic dinner date potential, while world-class shopping awaits in the island’s whitewashed and lively central village. The private beach at The Santa Marina Resort and Villas could set the scene for a certain ‘question’, or the hotel can arrange private sailboat excursions including one to the serene temple ruins on nearby Delos, the sacred uninhabited island of the ancients. The Belvedere Hotel is the top luxury boutique option that arranges a romantic cruise aboard its private yacht, allowing you to enjoy an evening meal catered by its gourmet restaurants under the moonlight and within view of the lively glow that emanates from Mykonos Town.

With its radiant sunsets, Santorini inspires romance on a nightly basis. The island is a unique formation of steep cliffs created after a tremendous volcanic explosion rocked the land mass 3,600 years ago. Cascading down the slopes, the island’s cubist whitewashed homes and blue-domed churches are a photographer’s dream. Tucked within them is the Katikies Hotel, where the luxury suites feature sea-facing whitewashed rooms shaped from the island’s volcanic rock. The hotel’s K-Club Escapes services offers romantic chauffeur driven outings to the best sunset viewing spots on the island. Or, you can simply hop aboard a private sailboat excursion that sets off for Santorini’s coastline and around the inimitable caldera. Spend a few hours swimming in the caldera’s hot springs with your significant other, and end the day with a bespoke dinner on-board with a serene backdrop of the Greek sea, the caldera and the island.


D e s t i n at i o n s g r e e k i s l a n D s

Dreamy views from Katikies Hotel on the island of Santorini (previous page) A villa with its own private pool at Belvedere Hotel in Mykonos (left) Views from the Marbella Hotel in Corfu (below left) and The Santa Marina Resort & Villas in Mykonos (below)

Culture Corfu Corfu’s main town is a beautiful example of just how culturally influenced this northern Greek island is. A UNESCO World Heritage site, its ochre colors blend architecture dating from the island’s Venetian, British and French ruling periods. Fortresses and archeological sites and are among the key landmarks. Culture lovers can choose from museums dedicated to archeology, Asian art or Byzantine culture. A fourth celebrates the work of famous Greek poet, Dionysos Solomos. One of the top resorts, The Marbella, overlooks Agios Ioannis Peristeron beach. A yacht can whisk you off to explore the island’s hidden bays and coves that are only accessible by sea, where you can discover pocket-sized beaches that are complemented by the deep greens of the island’s forested slopes.

“The glamour and energy in mykonos means romanTic aTmospheres are easy To come by”

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“Surrounded by aquamarine waterS, rhodeS haS an impreSSive medieval walled city where the pageS of hiStory bookS come alive�

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D e s t i n at i o n s g r e e k i s l a n D s

Enjoy the medieval architecture synonymous with Rhodes while overlooking yachts at Mandraki Harbour (left) Stay in one of five luxurious suites at the Kokkini Porta Rossa in Rhodes, which was once a knight’s mansion (below right)

Photo: Getty images

Turquoise water views over Rhodes from the town of Lindos (below left)

Historic rHodes Surrounded by aquamarine waters, Rhodes has an impressive medieval walled city where the pages of history books come alive. Rhodes Wonder Private Tours (+30 6944 390 535; www.rhodeswonder. com) chauffeurs you to the Old Town, with its 13th-century ramparts; the opulent Palace of the Grand Masters and to the Lindos Acropolis where a donkey can assist you up 292 steps, should you prefer not to hike it. You can stay amid history too, at Kokkini Porta Rossa, housed in a beautiful home built in 1475. Centrally located in the picturesque streets of Old Town, the property was a knight’s mansion before it was converted into a Turkish mansion with five luxurious suites. An exclusive excursion organised by the hotel takes you to the mountains to visit the less frequented or “forgotten” ancient ruins of the historically-rich island.

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Stay KataKies Hotel +30 22860 71401 www.katikies.com tHe santa Marina resort and Villas +30 22890 23220 www.santa-marina.gr tHe BelVedere Hotel +30 22890 25122 www.belvederehotel.com tHe MarBella +30 22610 71183 www.marbella.gr tHe Micraanglia + 30 22820 2220 www.micra-anglia.gr argentiKon luxury suites +30 22710 33111 www.argentikon.gr grecotel aMirandes +30 28970 41103 www.amirandes.com tHe astir of Paros +30 22840 51976 www.astirofparos.gr Petani Bay Hotel +30 26710 97701 www.petanibayhotel.gr

“kaStellorizo’S ottoman Style manSionS Surround a calm harbour”

KoKKini Porta rossa +30 22410 75114 www.kokkiniporta.com Mediterraneo Kastelorizo Hotel +30 6973 676 038 www.mediterraneo-megisti.com

Historic Kastellorizo

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The sunrises over Kastellorizo are just one of the island’s many draws (above) Dive into the waters from Kastelorizo Megiste, a waterfront boutique hotel (right)

Photo: getty images

A mere three kilometres from the Turkish coast, this tiny island in the Dodecanese is a historic wonder. Famous names like Eric Clapton and David Gilmour are among those to discover this southernmost Greek island where Europe ends and Asia begins. The island’s Ottoman-style mansions surround a calm harbour of yachts and fishing boats. In town, the Mediterraneo Kastelorizo is a waterfront boutique hotel known for its luxurious suites. The hotel arranges historic walking tours that explore an Italian market and the remains of baths and schools dating back to Turkish occupation. A guided mountain hike leads through archeological ruins and the remains of an old castle. You can also explore the island by boat to discover the Blue Grotto and the spectacular blue light created by the refraction of the sun into the sea cave. Another boat journey lands you onto the uninhabited shores of St. George – the island’s own island getaway.


An exclusive luxury resort set in 72 acres of a lush green private peninsula with numerous idyllically spread magical sandy coves and encircled by the blue waters of the Aegean Sea. The award-winning resort, extends its natural beauty in its design and offers a high level of service, a wealth of facilities and an exquisite choice of 7 award winning restaurants. A perfectly designed sanctuary for those looking for a luxury holiday and private accomodation.

40th km Athens - Sounion Ave, 19010 Lagonissi, Attica, Greece, Tel: +30 22910 76000, Fax: +30 22910 24514 E-mail: grandresort@grandresort.gr, www.grandresort.gr , www.helioshotels.gr


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BAY OF

PLENTY

With fashionable neighbourhoods, fabulous food and a hippie undercurrent, there’s no shortage of atmosphere in San Francisco, but the city’s urban nature gives it an edge, writes Becca Hensley

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T The city is flush with stately Victorian houses (right) Head out on foot along the Coastal Trail (below) for amazing views of the Golden Gate Bridge (previous page)

hey call it Land’s End. And, there’s a reason. Standing on a rugged cliff among wind-molded cypress trees, I gaze down at the ocean, a jade-coloured cauldron of unbridled waves, immersed in a halo of fog. On San Francisco’s northwest rim, Land’s End, twenty minutes by car from downtown, is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. It feels otherworldly, standing at the very rim of the North American continent, listening to the call of the seagulls and the pounding waves. Raw and wild, the city’s nature is the undercurrent of the legendary city and the boomtown, can-do spirit that has lingered on from gold rush days. To my right, the Coastal Trail hugs the cliff tops, offering riveting views of the city’s famed icon, the glittering Golden Gate Bridge. Keep going, and you could walk all the way to the bridge, though the trail itself eventually dead-ends into Sea Cliff, a well-heeled seaside neighbourhood. I venture left and trudge onto Ocean Beach, which from the Land’s End lookout point seems to extend indefinitely. Amid the brume, it looks like a timeworn black and white film, the waves

pounding in slow, hypnotic motion. Off shore, Seal Rock, a collection of craggy rock formations, punctuates the swirling waters. In the sky, I identify the specks of moving colour, human confetti, as kite surfers. Behind me, a coyote slinks through the bushes and multi-hued wildflowers that mottle the stone-strewn, red earth. When the throngs arrive to peruse the park’s Visitor’s Centre, the air is filled with the happy murmuring of hikers, view seekers and history buffs. The ruins of the Victorian-era Sutro Baths, a long abandoned private swimming complex built in the park’s heyday as a resort destination, move with so many visitors it resembles an anthill in motion. The coyote has vanished, replaced by dogs on leashes and denizens discussing where they’ll gather to eat tonight in this most food-centric city. Fog-laden, grey, and misty, San Francisco lies on a peninsula in Northern California, its surrounding area encompassing almost 80 square kilometres of a dense cityscape known as the Bay, which has nooks and crannies of raw nature like Land’s End, along with crowded, lively streets and the city’s famous steep hills. Known for cool summers, cable cars, sourdough bread, wharves galore, bookstores and an

“The CoasTal Trail hugs The Cliff Tops, offering riveTing views of The CiTy’s famed iCon, The gliTTering golden gaTe Bridge”

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Photo: Getty Images

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Photo: Getty Images

Photo: Getty Images

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extant hippie undercurrent, San Francisco is a cosmopolitan city, said to sell more theatre tickets than anywhere else in the United States. The city is flush with stately Victorian houses, which meld together, colourful and catawampus. Some neighbourhoods appear crumbling, others majestic. Seaside bungalows beguile and the mansions that sit atop Pacific Heights are the stuff of Hollywood cinema. From the edgy Mission District and the museum-laden SoMa to the global brand swank of Union Square, there’s a neigbourhood to suit any mood. You can nibble dim sum in Chinatown, peruse the second-hand shops along Haight Street, sample the nightlife in hip Castro and hop on the green cable cars to Fisherman’s Wharf for a seafood feast. Expansive parks and beaches lead to always-chilly

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A colourful mural in the Mission District neighbourhood (top left) of San Francisco An entrance sign in the city’s Castro District, a neighbourhood in Eureka Valley (top right) Alcatraz Island, or ‘The Rock’ (above) housed a high-security prison from 1934 to 1963

seas, while galleries, award-winning restaurants and bakeries comprise the mix. The main tourist attractions: Coit Tower, Alcatraz Island (a former prison), Telegraph Hill and the Golden Gate Bridge are just part of the fun. And, nearby, only an hour by car, the famous wine country awaits. As for the Bay City’s residents, they eschew designer heels, label-laden purses and ostentatious jewels for an understated sense of style. Bump into someone in a dishevelled hoodie and worn tennis shoes, and he might be an executive from one of newest dot.com startups. Somebody in yoga pants? She’s the one solving a health crisis affecting the burgeoning biotech industry. Vintage clothes a la Boho chic? Probably a world famous artist, winemaker, or the heir of Levi Strauss, who opened up a dry goods business here in the 19th century




D e s t i n at i o n s s a n f r a n c i s c o

“Some neighbourhoodS appear crumbling, otherS majeStic” Coit Tower (above) illuminated at night, is one of San Francisco’s top tourist attractions A Caviar and Carat facial at La Belle Day Spa & Salon (below left) The Neo-Classical facade at The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco (below right)

and is credited with inventing jeans. Wearing my own version of casual chic, I enter The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco. I’ve just enjoyed a Caviar and Carat Facial at La Belle Day Spa & Salons (+1 415 433 7644; www.labelledayspas.com), one of San Francisco’s top beauty spots. This instant reviver uses gold leaf, liquid gold and caviar to renew cells and stimulate collagen, and it works. I look like a runway model – except for the fact that I’m balancing a plethora of bags from a shopping spree at Wilkes Bashford, a townhouse-style emporium in Union Square, chockfull of gorgeous

accoutrements. Somewhat serendipitously, the Ritz-Carlton has just been refurbished and it was Wilkes Bashford that inspired the hotel’s new, even classier lines. The interiors of the Neo-Classical building now read like a finely fitted, bespoke suit. Beyond the design, the Ritz-Carlton offers intuitive service, commodious suites, and a club floor and lounge where you’re certain to spot a celebrity. Lucky for me, I run into somebody better than a film star: the hotel’s star concierge Ric Lee. Lee has promised to help me plan a sightseeing tour I won’t soon forget: a helicopter outing at sunset, which hovers over the cityscape —including the Golden Gate Bridge – before landing near the wharf area for dinner aboard a yacht with San Francisco Helicopter Tours (+1 650 635 4500; www.sfhelicoptertours.com). For tomorrow, Lee

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suggests sailing the USA 76, the America’s Cup Racing Yacht, which takes eager sailors out to sea at breakneck speed. Feeling some trepidation, I tremble at the idea of hoisting the sail or steering this renowned vessel myself, but he assures me I can just relax and ride. Startlingly, there’s another heart-racing alternative. “How about flying a Marchetti SF260 Fighter Jet?” he asks. Terrified, I pass, though I know my husband yearns to impale the clouds at the speed of light. More my velocity, I opt for the “Kitchen Table” experience at Parallel 37, the hotel’s award-winning restaurant. There, under the tutelage of Chef Michael Rotondo, we’ll help the chef plate dishes for dinner service, then sit at the kitchen table, custom made from locallysourced barrel staves, while he makes us an offmenu, eight-course dinner. There’s plenty to eat in San Francisco, but for foodies and oenophiles, a trip to the Wine Country is de riguer. Rather than driving, we hop aboard a flight with Seaplane Adventures Seaplane Adventures (+1 415 332 4843; www.seaplane.com), ascending from the waters of Richardson Bay in Sausalito and buzzing for 50 minutes to Sonoma Valley, where we tour the Ceago Viegardens Winery, before flying back to town. The next day, we head to Oakland, where the concierge at the InterContinental, Bill Sutton, has

“for foodies and oenophiles, a trip to the Wine Country is de riguer”

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Hop on board San Francisco’s Hyde Street Cable Car Tram (above), a signature way to explore the city One of the many vineyards in Sonoma Valley (below), only a 50-minute seaplane flight from the city



d e s t i n at i o n s s a n f r a n c i s c o

Stay The FairmonT San FranciSco Tel: +1 415 772 5000 fairmont.com The riTz-carlTon San FranciSco Tel: +1 415 296 7465 ritzcarlton.com

The main bedroom in the Penthouse Suite at The Fairmont San Francisco (top) An aerial view of downtown San Francisco (above)

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managed to convince chef, Alice Waters to spend the day with us. An advocate for sustainable eating, she leads us through the farmer’s market, and helps us to carry baskets of fresh produce to Chez Panisse Cafe, Water’s seminal eatery, said to have spearheaded America’s foraged food movement. There, we have an unforgettable lunch made from our market found provisions. Finally, we check into The Fairmont San Francisco, a symbol of the city since 1907. A bastion of elegance, every inch of the hotel evokes the historical grandeur of San Francisco. In the Penthouse Suite, refurbished by Champalimaud in 2009, we experience grace incarnate. Created in the Roaring Twenties by famed American

archeologist and art historian Arthur Upham Pope, the suite spans the entire eighth floor of the building, and is valued today at US$20 million. Its east-meets-west features include paintings by David Hockney, a gold leaf covered rotunda, Persian tile flooring, a sleeping suite hidden by a bookcase and eye-popping views. San Francisco is many things. As a child visiting relatives, it was my storybook city. As an adult, it’s an overflowing treasure chest. If you visit, I urge you to go to Land’s End and feel the wonder of nature and possibility while standing on the cliffs above the sea. It’s akin to what those first gold miners sought – and found. Pure, natural riches – and it won’t cost you a penny.


New York

Waldorf Astoria New York

The St. Regis New York

The Chatwal

The Plaza Hotel

Langham Place, New York, Fifth Avenue

The Peninsula New York

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Two- Michelin- Starred Chef Norbert Niederkofler from San Cassiano to Al Dana Restaurant Sharq Village & Spa, a Ritz-Carlton Hotel is delighted to invite you to experience a first-ever true Italian culinary artistry where two-Michelin-starred chef Norbert Niederkofler showcases his signature creations at Al Dana Restaurant from 20 to 21 May 2015 from 6:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. For restaurant reservations and more information, please contact the hotel directly on 974 4425 6666 or visit The Ritz-Carlton website: www.ritzcarlton.com/sharqvillage.


gourmet Yo u r u lt i m at e g u i d e t o f i n e d i n i n g

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wonderful copenhagen a plate of culinary wizardry created at aoc, a restaurant set in the vaulted cellar of a historic, 17th century mansion in Copenhagen

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an ode to the food of Sicily gourmet news from around the world a chef’s foodie guide to Copenhagen ten minutes with chef Jose Pizarro limoncello, italy’s lemon-fused liqueur a table at gaig in Barcelona


photo: Getty Images

Section title

positano on the Amalfi Coast

Limoncello N The people of Italy’s Campania region have one rule. When life gives you lemons, make limoncello

Words: Jan fuscoe

Da Ciccio Cielo Mare Terra

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ature has been kind to the Campania region: fertile soil and a warm climate mean it’s perfect for growing everything from cherry tomatoes, fat olives and sweet grapes to highly aromatic lemons. The secret to its success can be seen looming over the city in the form of menacing Vesuvius; with the devastation of each successive volcanic eruption, the surrounding soil has been enriched with vital minerals that give the crops their extraordinary flavours. And successive invasions by Greeks, Etruscans, Romans, Goths, Lombards, Saracens and Normans, have ensured that the diet is rich and varied. At the end of a meal, it’s customary to take a little ‘digestivo’ in the form of a shot of sunshine known as limoncello, a syrupy liqueur made from an infusion of lemon peel in alcohol. The origins of limoncello are hazy; some say that farmers and fishermen drank a lemon-infused alcohol to ward off colds, others attribute its creation to the Carthusian monks who first created lemon fragrance on the island of Capri. The only documented evidence dates back to around 1900 when Maria Antonia Farace served the drink to her boarding house guests. Her son registered the name ‘limoncello’ in 1988. There are several types of lemon produced in the region, each with different character and use. The island of Procida grows enormous fat lemons with a thick pith; less

sharp than the standard lemon, they’re used to create a delicious lemon salad. Amalfi, Capri or Sorrento lemons, known as ‘femminiello’ are knobbly, thin-skinned and highly scented. It’s the peel of these unwaxed, organic lemons that is used to make limoncello. The ‘femminello’ lemon has been awarded Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, which means it can only be cultivated on the island of Capri and along the Sorrentine Peninsula. The lemons are usually grown under a structure made from chestnut poles which protects the fruit from inclement weather and birds. By March the pale yellow lemons, called ‘bianchetti’, ripen, and by June the green ‘verdelli’ are ready to be picked. The ripe fruits are washed and gently brushed in warm water and the aromatic peel is placed into pure alcohol, where it steeps for a month. As the rind macerates, the lemon oil and colour are instilled into the alcohol. A small pot of sugared water, boiled and cooled, is added and the limoncello, which should then be left in the dark cupboard for another month. The peel is then removed and the limoncello is ready to serve – usually chilled, in a cold ceramic cup. The alcoholic content is around 30 per cent proof, while more adventurous types add it to champagne, or even ice cream. To celebrate the importance of the lemon to this region, the Festival of Lemons is held every July when visitors wander through the lemon groves and sample local products.

photo: Getty Images

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G O U R M E T S P I R I T O F T R AV E L

FROM FAMILY RUN LEMON GROVES IN SORRENTO TO MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS, HERE ARE FOUR PLACES TO CELEBRATE LIMONCELLO 1. CHAMPAGNE TASTES, LEMONADE POCKETS Just off the Corso Italia, Sorrento’s busiest street, is a veritable garden of Eden: line after line of lemon trees that, in spring, fill the air with their sweet scented lemon blossom. The Cataldo gardens are linked to groves dating back to the 19th century, when the estate was producing exclusively for the customers of the nearby Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria Hotel. Wander the lemon grove and find out how the famous drink is made while watching two (or even three, at busy times) staff in the tiny low-tech ‘factory’, and then sample their delicious limoncello. Orange and lemon marmalades, ice creams and granitas are also on sale, as well as a variety of other infused drinks, such as mandarincello, nocello, which is made from walnuts, and fennel, basil or liquorice-based drinks. PRICE: A short guided tour costs 8 Euros (US$9) TEL: + 39 81 878 1888 WWW.IGIARDINIDICATALDO.IT

Photo: Getty Images

2. BACK TO THE SOURCE Set in a cluster of 19th century houses in the little village of Sant’Agata sui due Golfi, Don Alfonso 1890 is Alfonso Iaccarino’s boutique hotel, home to one of the finest restaurants in southern Italy, earning two Michelin stars for inventive dishes that use many ingredients from his own organic farm on nearby Punta Campanella. The legendary restaurant has expanded globally to Macau, Marrakech and Dubai, but nothing compares to the farm-fresh produce, extra-virgin olive oil and limoncello served at the original. One of the best things about this place is that after a wonderful dinner you can retire to one of eight individually designed bedrooms for a well-earned rest, before enjoying a stunning breakfast of homemade jams, breads, farm-fresh eggs and cheese. Along with limoncello, there’s a wine cellar with more than 25,000 bottles, a subterranean cheese room and a cookery school where you can learn the basics of Mediterranean cuisine. PRICE: 200 Euros (US$216) per night; three-hour cooking classes 290 Euros (US$234) per person. TEL: + 39 081 878 0026 WWW.DONALFONSO.COM

Capri

Sorrento lemon groves

“JUST OFF THE CORSO ITALIA, SORRENTO’S BUSIEST STREET, IS A VERITABLE GARDEN OF EDEN: LINE AFTER LINE OF LEMON TREES THAT, IN SPRING, FILL THE AIR WITH THEIR SWEET SCENTED LEMON BLOSSOM”

3. DINE WITH LA FAMIGLIA Da Ciccio Cielo Mare Terra is a fourth generation family-run restaurant, one of the oldest on the Amalfi Coast and one of the most-loved. Established in 1931 with wonderful ocean views, the clifftop restaurant serves seasonal dishes created by Francisco (‘Ciccio’), with many ingredients from his own garden: Amalfitan lemons, tomatoes and courgettes, as well as a variety of herbs. Ciccio’s wife, Marinella, takes care of desserts, while their four sons take care of wines, the dining room, kitchen and reception. Fish is a speciality here, such as marinated seafood on lemon cream, followed by clams with olives, capers, fresh tomatoes and wild oregano, but Ciccio also produces a vegan menu, and every meal ends with a complimentary glass of limoncello. Guests can visit the farm by request. TEL: +39 089 831 265 WWW.RISTORANTEDACICCIO.COM 4. ISLAND TIME Along with skippered yachts, gozzi (traditional fishing boats) and speedboats dropping anchor along the island of Capri, this exclusive tour company has expanded to include art and architectural walking tours, cooking and hands-on limoncello classes. In a private villa in Anacapri, with sweeping ocean views, guests learn the history and culture of the drink, and how to make the popular digestive from start to finish, beginning with picking the lemons from the lemon grove, right up to the tasting. The company specialises in bespoke tours and your limoncello demo can easily be combined with a cooking course with a local Capri chef, or as a delicious end to a day-long boat trip around the island. PRICE: Limoncello course 175 Euros (US$189) per person TEL: +39 329 21 49 811 WWW.CAPRITIME.COM

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Enjoy a truly intimate getaway in Bali where the sea is calm and the sand is pristine white. Reserve your stay at +62 361 849 8988 or visit www.ritzcarlton.com/bali.

Jalan Nusa Dua Selatan Lot III, Sawangan, Nusa Dua, Bali 80363, Indonesia TEL +62 361 849 8988 FAX +62 361 849 8989 www.ritzcarlton.com/bali


spend it u n i q u e e x p e r i e n c e s a n d s o p h i s t i c at e d e s s e n t i a l s

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sculpture & spA View a contemporary art exhibition while indulging in a thermal spa treatment at the swiss Grand resort Bad ragaz this month

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French-arabic flair at Four seasons hotel Beirut intineraries to inspire your next adventure elegant essentials for sophisticated travellers Jumeirah Zabeel saray’s talise ottoman spa Green machine: lamborghini huracån lp 610-4 news from porsche, Jaguar and cadillac new yachts, summer charters and concepts out of this world: flying with al pacino


Spend it motoring

Behold the hurricane Behold the hurricane The new Lamborghini Huracán LP 610-4 is where fast and furious meets fun, but with a price tag upwards of $240,000, it’s not for everyone – so who’s it for?

The new Lamborghini Huracán LP 610-4 is where fast and furious meets fun, but with a price tag upwards of $240,000, it’s not for everyone – so who’s it for? Words: Steven Bond exterior photography: Haitham El Shazly

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spend it motoring

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Sail away

BurgeSS MONDANgO 3 Just in time for summer, the fabulous sailing yacht MONDANGO 3 is one the newest vessels in the Burgess charter fleet, available for charter in the South Pacific (principally French Polynesia). The sleek exteriors were designed by Dubois Naval Architects, while British firm Reymond Langton designed the sumptuous interiors. The yacht is a true showstopper with luxurious furnishings, textures and trimmings, and there are plenty of ingenious bells and whistles, like a floor-toceiling carved leather and glass ‘wall’ with an integrated 103” television, which cleverly divides the main saloon from the dining room, and a concealed spa pool in the aft deck. As for entertaining, the spacious aft cockpit can be sheltered by an electrically operated glass screens for comfortable dining, while the flybridge provides an alternative al fresco area for relaxing and dining when at anchor. Up to 11 guests are accommodated in either a full beam master suite, a VIP suite, a queen cabin and two twins (one with pullman), each fitted with marble ensuite bathrooms. Built for fast, stable, high performance blue water sailing, the yacht’s low draft means you have carte blanche to access shallow harbours and ports. There’s also plenty to do once you drop anchor in Polynesian paradise, with a fully loaded tender and toy kit that includes stand up paddle boards, snorkelling and fishing gear, water skis, wake boards and a 7x5m netted swimming pool. Year: 2014 Length: 56.4m Draught: 4m Beam: 11m Draft: 4m Cruise Speed: 12 knots Price: Charter from 196,000 Euros (US$211,859) per week www.burgessyachts.com

ON THE WATER THIS MONTH Mediterranean Yacht Show May 2-6 Nafplion, Greece www.mediterraneanyachtshow.gr PalMa SuPerYacht Brokerage & charter Show April 30-May 4 Palma de Mallorca, Spain www.palmasuperyachtshow.com


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