SPA Inc. Fall 2018 by Dovetail Communications

FALL 2018

CANADAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SPA CONNECTION

MINDSET BRAIN GYM A new approach to meditation

Mastering Social Media Must-do's (and don'ts)

PUSHING

BOUNDARIES

WHY THE RISKS AREN'T WORTH IT

Distributed in Canada by DermaSpark Products Inc. | 1-866-237-0849 | www.DermaSpark.com

contents

spa news

BABOR finds inspiration in Nashville, the second annual Beauty Innovation & Design Awards visit Las Vegas, and a new product for facials “on the go”

Products to refresh the “windows to the soul”

science of the spa

spa light

Treatments for the often neglected décolleté

MINDSET Brain Gym rethinks meditation in Toronto’s Yorkville district

in the know

fresh & new

Anti-aging supplements, a sleek product dispenser, four-clay mask and more skincare solutions

spa business

The basics of mastering social media

spa star

14 How pushing boundaries can increase risk

Doctor and author Vivien Brown shares some secrets from A Woman’s Guide to Healthy Aging

Managing the financial side of your spa

32 Cover Photo: MINDSET Brain Gym

www. s p a inc .c a

between us FA L L 2 0 1 8

This is

Goodbye A

s I put the finishing touches on my final issue of the magazine, I have been reflecting on the beginning of this journey you and I have been on for the last four years. When I began writing for Spa Inc. magazine, I had never actually been inside a spa. Ironic, I know! In the years since, however, I have learned so much about the industry and my admiration for the caring, dedicated people that keep it running has grown and grown. With every visit to a Canadian spa, every interview with a spa owner or spa supplier, and my involvement in the annual Canadian Spa and Wellness Awards, I have been absorbing the essential values of the spa: wellness, relaxation, beauty, and innovation. We have tried to incorporate those values into the content we put into the magazine and with the comments and suggestions from readers like you, we have continued to refine that content with each successive issue. Thank you for supporting us and supporting me, as we have sought to support you and provide you with accurate information and education that will help you do your jobs. I may be Hermione Wilson leaving, but I will carry all that is great ASSISTANT EDITOR about the spa world with me.

ISSN 1710 -1727 Volume 15, Number 3

Publisher Susan A. Browne sbrowne@dvtail.com

Editorial Popi Bowman Director pbowman@dvtail.com

Assistant Hermione Wilson Editor

Art Katrina Teimo Director kteimo@dvtail.com

Contributors

Katie Dempsey Jana Manolakos Vivienne O'Keeffe Susan Watkin Diane Wong Elena Zinchenko

Advertising Beth Kukkonen Manager bkukkonen@dvtail.com

Advertising Carmelina Karas ckaras@dvtail.com 905-707-3521

Marketing Stephanie Wilson Manager swilson@dvtail.com

VP of Roberta Dick Production robertad@dvtail.com

Production Crystal Himes Coordinator chimes@dvtail.com

Published four times a year by: Dovetail Communications Inc. President: Susan A. Browne Tel: 905-886-6640 Fax: 905-886-6615 Email: general@dvtail.com SUBSCRIPTIONS AND RETURNS 30 East Beaver Creek Rd, Suite 202 Richmond Hill, Ontario L4B 1J2 PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40026342 Legal Deposit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; National Library of Canada. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the written permission of the publisher. Dovetail Communications Inc. cannot be held responsible for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on information appearing in Spa Inc. Spa Inc. and Dovetail Communications Inc. do not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising. Spa Inc. will review unsolicited submissions (hard copy or digital texts, photos or illustrations) for editorial consideration but does not guarantee their publication. The submitted material may be used without consent or payment. One-year subscription: Canada $25, U.S. $39. Single copies: $6. Please add GST/HST where applicable. PRINTED IN CANADA

Check us out online @SpaIncMag

4 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 018

Printed on paper with 10% post-consumer waste. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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guest editorial

The Words “Infection” and “Spa” Don’t Belong in the Same Sentence… Ever!

adly, they are used together far too often. Leading Spas of Canada receives calls regularly from consumers who have taken a risk by electing to visit a spa that is not a member of our association. They are desperate to figure out what recourse is available when they’ve suffered an infection, or sometimes worse, because the spa they chose to visit wasn’t a member and didn’t adhere to the standards and practices our members uphold. Health Canada and related agencies provide a high level of oversight for product safety and labeling, while provincial and territorial governments maintain high standards for workplace safety and employment standards, but there is very little specific regulation when it comes to the industry, and when it does exist, it is inconsistent. Unfortunately, some see the opportunity to hang out a shingle in this growing and largely unregulated sector, without consideration of proper safety and hygiene, and as a result, put their customers at considerable risk. Leading Spas of Canada Members Believe They Have a Duty to Protect their Customers Recognizing this, Leading Spas of Canada members have committed to distinguishing themselves by voluntarily adhering to a stringent set of standards and practices to ensure their customers receive exceptionally safe and professional service. In 2010, the association launched its Quality Assurance (QA) Program – the only one of its kind in Canada – to enable members to go even further in demonstrating their commitment. Every two years, member spas are offered the opportunity to participate in this process which involves a mystery shopping call and on-site visit from a third-party assessor to ensure that every facet of their operation meets or exceeds the highest standards related to health, safety, hygiene, and customer service. The criteria for the program, based originally on consultation with physicians, spa industry experts, spa owners, and health and safety professionals, and now maintained and updated as needed by the association’s Standards & Practices Advisory Panel, includes an assessment of spa operations, including, but not limited to, booking and appointment processes, management and human resource documentation, physical inspection of the property and equipment, sanitation, and sterilization procedures. Successful spas receive a Quality Assurance Approved certificate and seal of approval that they display proudly for customers and staff to see. It demonstrates that they recognize

their duty to protect their customers and employees and are passionate about doing so. Congratulations to the 21 Spas that have Successfully Attained the Quality Assurance Approved Designation This Year The association has just completed the 2018-2019 Quality Assurance Program, and this year, 21 Canadian spas from BC, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, and Quebec earned the designation. 1. Achieve Wellness Spa, Fort McMurray, AB 2. Achieve Wellness, Clearwater Suite Hotel, AB 3. Algonquin Spa at The Couples Resort, ON 4. Ancient Cedars Spa, BC 5. Body & Soul Day Spa, BC 6. Drift Spa at Black Rock Oceanfront Resort, BC 7. Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort, BC 8. Hammam Spa, ON 9. Island Currents Spa at Sonora Resort, BC 10. Langdon Hall Country Hotel & Spa, ON 11. Le Spa Infinima, QC 12. Life Stiles Spa, AB 13. O Spa Health & Wellness Centre, BC 14. Pacific Mist Spa at Kingfisher Oceanside Resort, BC 15. Riverstone Spa, MB 16. Sante Spa at Bear Mountain, BC 17. Sahara Spa, SK 18. Temple Gardens Mineral Spa, SK 19. Ten Spa, MB 20. The L Spa and Wellness Centre, AB 21. Vida Spa, Westin Bayshore, BC We are thrilled that all of these spas have also chosen to invest in their business, employees, and customers by participating in the program, and we congratulate them on their success. I hope we will continue to see this list grow. The spa and wellness industry is on an upswing, and as the breadth and complexity of procedures continues to expand, it is more important than ever that spa operators manage risk and create exceptional experiences that will keep customers healthy and safe, and returning to their spas time and again. I also want to extend a personal note of thanks to Intercosmetics, Eminence, and Nelly De Vuyst, for joining Ten Spa as sponsors of the 2018-2019 Quality Assurance Program. Your generosity and belief in the importance of quality speaks volumes about your dedication to the industry and to the safety and satisfaction of Canadian spa-goers.

Elena Zinchenko Manager, Ten Spa (QAA), Chair, Leading Spas of Canada, and proud QA Sponsor www. s pa inc .c a

spa news

BABOR’s New Campaign Amplifies Empowerment BABOR Skin Care has launched Nashville AMP’d, a new empowerment campaign that builds on the messages of its All Woman Project. Encouraging women to feel confident about themselves, regardless of their appearance or perceived flaws, the new campaign showcases the stories of six Nashville recording artists, including Lindsay Ell, Kelleigh Bannen, Candi Carpenter, Mickey Guyton, Sarah Davidson, and Kalie Shor. The company has also created a limited-edition custom-sleeved Perfect Glow Ampoule Concentrate. The set includes seven concentrated, natural active beauty ampoules sealed in a single dose glass ampoule. Light-reflecting illuminating pigments create a natural glow and help even skin tone, while Perfection Peptide P3 promotes natural skin rejuvenation.

Formula and Package Innovations Rewarded at CPNA The beauty industry applauded some of its brightest stars at the second annual Beauty Innovation & Design Awards (Beauty ID Awards), held in Las Vegas during the Cosmoprof North America (CPNA) 2018 exhibition in July. In choosing the winners, judges focused on unique designs and formulations, as well as innovation in user functionality. In addition, one Audience Choice winner was picked through thousands of online votes. In the Skin Professional category, Dermaflash was recognized for its exfoliating facial treatment, which comes packaged in a distinctive and luxurious soft-touch box featuring interior compartments that perfectly fit each element of the treatment. Other winners included Algenist’s GENIUS Liquid Collagen, HCT Group’s Jeremy Scott x MAC (Grand Winner), Yanbal International’s Liberatta Noire (Audience Choice Winner), Naturelab Tokyo, LiLu Lip Balm Pearl, Kocostar/Lip Mask, and Express Tubes’ Choose Green: Eco-Friendly Packaging (Sugarcane Tubes). 8 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 018

Facial Massage and Masks “to-go”

Estheticians can now enhance their clients’ massage with express mask treatments using the new Repêchage Glow and Go service, recently introduced by Professional Skin Care. With facial massages popping up at airports and department stores, the product can enrich the client experience in less than 30 minutes by applying sheet masks for brightening, calming, hydrating, and helping in reducing the signs of aging. A sheet mask collection for at-home use is also available. Step-by-step protocols on how to perform the customized treatments are provided to professionals who add these services to their spa or salon offerings.

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spa light

MINDSET Brain Gym:

a new frontier in wellness 10 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 018

spa light B Y JA NA M A N O L A KO S

f you’ve come to MINDSET Brain Gym expecting an ordinary meditation studio, you will be disappointed. There are no Buddha statues and crystals here. Stepping into this extraordinary space, the noise and frenetic pace of Bay and Bloor streets in downtown Toronto simply fall away. It’s another world, the world of the mind, the inner sanctum from which true beauty emerges. You might even say MINDSET is a spa, specifically curated for busy brains; an opportunity to regenerate, refocus, and rejuvenate exhausted neurons. “Meditation is the new frontier in fitness and wellness,” says co-founder Sean Finnell, who opened the studio’s inaugural Yorkville location in July. Here, amid cool jazz vibes piped throughout, clients can come in, grab a complementary kombucha and melt into one of the plush couches or memory foam beanbag chairs in the airy and spacious lounges. “It’s made to evoke feelings of calm,” says Finnell, who worked with high-end designer Ariel Muller in creating the ambience that gently introduces natural elements, birch trees and a preserved moss accent wall, to help clients transition. “While we encourage people to come as they are, we do ask them to leave their phones in the high-speed charging lockers,” he says, adding that the act of locking mobiles away can itself be therapeutic. Born and raised in Manhattan, with a business degree from McGill University, Finnell started in the music industry, running marketing programs for hundreds of concerts – and in the process discovering the benefits of meditation. “It’s a frenetic pace. At a certain point it’s harder to focus and get things done when you have a thousand different things pulling for your attention. Meditation is a way of focusing.” While he acknowledges that meditation can be a powerful tool for spiritual exploration, he felt its spiritual nature wouldn’t resonate with the business crowd on Bay Street or “Super A-type meditation skeptics.” “What we really wanted to do was create a space that would appeal to the skeptic, someone that could see it in a new light, in the light of fitness, maximizing individual potential and strengthening resilience to stress, focus, memory, and creativity.” Nine out of 10 people that come to MINDSET have never meditated before but are curious to try it out. A number of professionals across the wellness industry have even recommended it to their own clients. The 45-minute intention-oriented classes include 15 minutes of reflection and discussion, and are held in the inner sanctum at the back of the studio, in MINDSET’s signature “mind gym,” infused with gentle blue light Nanoleaf installations that move rhythmically. While the blue is largely aesthetic, says Finnell, there is early indication that the colour blue helps activate the parasympathetic nervous system, which is the body’s relaxation response. “We have curated every element in this room, from the blue light to the ergonomic seating to the sounds of water and aromatherapy with our own blend of diffused oils.” All elements are designed to activate each of the body’s senses to promote a state of focused relaxation. For those who prefer private meditation, there’s a zero-gravity Stillness Pod with immersive 3-D audio recordings. One of the gym’s unique features includes brainwave measurement reports generated by the headset that clients can wear in class to track their progress over time. “You come out of here and immediately feel lighter than air. That immediate benefit of instant stress reduction and the tangibility of seeing your brain waves and seeing that you actually did something in those 30 minutes keeps people coming back.” In starting a business like this, there really isn’t a benchmark or best practice in the

www. s pa inc .c a

spa light industry to learn from, says Finnell. For him, there’s an immense amount of scale to be found in the high-end luxury market. This location is just a first step in a plan to expand into U.S. cities. “Yorkville is a great place to be because it’s very dense, both commercially and residentially. We have a lot of high earners and the studies are abundantly clear that a high earner is a stressed worker. Sixty-eight per cent of people earning over $200,000 per year report high stress, so it’s really a relevant problem in this area.” The corporate business is also growing, with companies bringing groups of employees, says Finnell. There’s opportunity here, he says, citing a 2012 study by U.S. insurance giant Aetna, that found employee mindfulness training

resulted in productivity gains in the amount of $3,000 annually per employee. In terms of retail, Finnell is careful not to overload his clients with options. “Every time we bring on a different category of product, we do a lot of research into who is offering products, who we can partner with, and who can give meaningful support to our clients and value-add.” Complementing meditation practice, clients can purchase the MINDSET Journal, with daily prompts to promote gratitude, introspection and healthy habit formation. “It’s our own proprietary product, which we’ve spent months developing. Meditation and journaling done every day can dramatically change your life,” he says.

WHAT WE REALLY WANTED TO DO WAS CREATE A SPACE THAT WOULD APPEAL TO THE SKEPTIC, SOMEONE THAT COULD SEE IT IN A NEW LIGHT, IN THE LIGHT OF FITNESS, MAXIMIZING INDIVIDUAL POTENTIAL AND STRENGTHENING RESILIENCE TO STRESS, FOCUS, MEMORY AND CREATIVITY. – Co-founder, Sean Finnell

12 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 018

MINDSET BRAIN GYM FACTS SIZE: 2,600 square feet INSTRUCTORS: 4, with more to be added in the Fall. Instructors are certified, have established practices and bring expertise in teaching mindfulness in performance settings like corporations COST: Classes are available as either drop-in/pay-as-you-go at $25 per class, $100 for a 5-class package or unlimited membership starting at $150 RETAIL: The MINDSET Journal, Muse headset, a selection of meditation books, Beekeeper’s Naturals B-LXR Brain Fuel with royal jelly, Halfmoon Silk Sleep Masks www.mindsetbraingym.com

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spa business

COMMUNICATING YOUR BRAND ON

SOCIAL MEDIA B Y K AT I E D E M P S E Y

randing and social media go hand in hand, and it is hard to succeed at one without the other. Branding, for example, creates a personality around your spa business. Clients that resonate with your brand personality can become fiercely loyal, and will help shape your reputation. Social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram assist in this process, providing a space where you can educate your clients about your brand and encourage them to share that information with their friends. For this to work, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use social media just to share your latest spa treatment special. You need to be strategic. Here are some tips to help you.

14 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 018

spa business

1. BE CLEAR ABOUT YOUR BRAND’S PERSONALITY Imagine if your spa was a person. Would it be a bookworm in comfy sweaters, snuggled up with hot chocolate by a fireplace? Is it a loud and sassy rebel or a sexy, successful corporate type? Thinking about your spa as a character or person can help you get focused about your brand identity. Next, use your social media to show your followers who you are, with images and content that match your chosen personality. You’ll attract clients who resonate with that vibe. Take It Next Level: Create unique hashtags, inside jokes, and themes that reflect your spa’s personality. Identify influencers or bloggers in the community who might match your spa’s personality, and actively seek cross-promotions that are a fit for the image you’re building. Remember, on social #CollaborationIsTheNewCompetition. STOP: Not all spas need to be quiet, zenned-out private spaces. Beauty bars and lounges are increasing in popularity because they are fun and social. Check out brands like @hermajestyspleasure or @the.brandy.alexander on Instagram for inspiration.

2. MANAGE YOUR AESTHETIC Your look should match your personality. Establish colours, themes, and visuals that your spa would like if it was a person, and stay consistent. Instagram in particular places a high premium on beautiful photos, and your page should showcase images that communicate your businesses personality. Simple, clean, and attractive pages get more follows. Take It Next Level: Bring your Instagram aesthetic into your space, and vice versa. Make sure your stations, decor, signage, print etc. are consistent in themes, and colours. You want to be able to take an Instagram-worthy photo anywhere and have it fit with the

body of work you are building. Create specific visuals that clients might want to snap a picture of so they can help spread the word. Good lighting in your location is key to keep photos from looking cheap and drab. STOP: Resist the urge to put text over your images to announce a sale or service – especially on Instagram. Your posts should never look like ads!

3. MAKE IT PART OF THE JOB Your whole team needs to be “on brand” and accurately represent your vision. Educate your staff and encourage participation. Create a group chat on Messenger or WhatsApp, and use it to collect content (videos, images, boomerangs, expertise) from your staff so that your social media manager has lots to post. Take It Next Level: Your staff can only understand your brand if you talk to them about it. Make sure they understand your business’s personality. If your staff aren’t social media savvy, train them. Make sure everyone knows how to share pictures or take a Boomerang video. Create social media guidelines for your spa. They should include suggestions for good content, hashtags, and rules around sharing to personal pages. Be clear about your expectations, and create a sense of enthusiasm about promoting the business. Hiring a professional for this is a great investment. STOP: Don’t hide your staff away. Get professional photography of your team, and showcase their expertise and skills. Give your clients people that they can recognize and love online. Your people are a big part of your brand, so hire accordingly.

www. s p a inc .c a

spa business

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4. INVOLVE YOUR CLIENTS Your brand’s reputation can grow by leaps and bounds if your customers are in on the game. Use social media to repeat messages that you want your clients to say about you. Take It Next Level: Make sure there are visuals that your clients will want to take pictures of. Selfie walls, art installations, or remarkable decor will encourage your clients to share their experiences online, growing your reputation. Identify two to three hashtags for your business and make sure they are on your printed material, and shared with your clients. Offer $5 off their next treatment if your client shares an image, uses a hashtag or leaves a review. STOP: Don’t just post on social media. Engagement builds relationships the fastest. This means when your team, has downtime, they should be liking and commenting on your fans’ and followers’ content. Never leave a comment without a reply. Algorithms will reward your attention, and your fans will feel the love!

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16 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 018

Katie Dempsey is the owner of Brand Ambition, a boutique marketing and branding agency that helps small and mediumsized businesses create updated and engaged online identities. Katie has been marketing in the spa and wellness industry for more than 6 years, and is passionate about strategically integrating social media. www.brandambition.ca Insta: @brand_ambition Facebook: facebook.com/ourbrandambition

spa business

There are many ways to succeed in today’s spa business. Taking unnecessary risks isn't one of them.

PUSHING

boundaries THE

BY VIVIENNE O’KEEFFE

recently heard about a day spa owner planning to put a new $95,000 laser treatment machine into service mere days after a brief training program and taking delivery of it. Shaken by the obvious perils of inexperienced technicians zapping spa guests with advanced targeted devices, and having written and spoken extensively on risk management within the spa industry, I decided to take another look into how new technology might be affecting the whole area of risk management. As a whole, the customer journey is complex – the synergy of fixed and moving parts includes the physical location, the treatment and product lineup, the qualifications, training, presence of mind and commitment of staff, the advertising and market program, and the customer’s state of health and expectations. In today’s booming medi spa sector, employing inadequately trained and inexperienced technicians can result in a particularly volatile concoction. One faulty aspect can cause untold damage. According to the American Med Spa Association 2017 State of the Medical Spa Industry Report, despite a growing overlap between regular spas and medical spas in terms of customer service and marketing, “medical spas have a vastly different price

point, more advanced technologies, and unique legal and regulatory challenges. [The medical spa industry] by itself generates $4 billion in revenue a year, has doubled in size in the past five years and is projected to double again by 2020.” The Wild West mentality that often accompanies economic booms is exemplified by the soaring popularity of cosmetic laser treatments. In the right hands they can produce amazing results for hair removal, skin tightening, wrinkle reduction and other applications. But their ready availability has lulled many clients and patients into thinking they’re as safe and pain-free as advertised. A woman in Guelph, Ontario, for example, who wanted to try laser skin tightening after having two children, visited a clinic advertising certified laser technicians and risk-free treatments with reportedly no side effects. Instead, as reported on CTV’s investigative news program W5, her abdomen was left covered in unsightly rectangular blistering burns. The W5 report incorporated a Canadian Dermatology Association (CDA) survey that found 73 per cent of dermatologists have treated patients for burns, scars or other wounds sustained after seeking laser treatments. Dr. Lisa Kellett, a Toronto dermatologist with 20 years www. s p a inc .c a

spa business Insurance: Inadequate or non-compliant. experience, treats several patients a week suffering severe complications from burns, pigment change, infections and Human Resources: A huge area of risk exposure in this labourscarring from poorly trained practitioners. The CDA told W5 it intensive industry, this includes flawed hiring practices such as will be advocating for new legal guidelines to help reduce the falsified identity, qualifications and references. number and severity of patients’ injuries caused by these very powerful machines. Facility: Violation of building code requirements, safety What I am seeing is spa owners investing in energy devices like hazards, fire, flood, sewer backup, etc. lasers in the hope of capturing a piece of that $4 billion pie. With blurred lines between who is qualified and who isn’t, laser Outsourcing: An example of risk would be of an unlicensed food treatments remain one of the most unregulated medical handler carrying hepatitis. procedures in Canada. Note that the spa industry in general is enjoying Infection Control: Improper level of infection control healthy gains, with U.S. spa visits alone procedures for levels of risks. surpassing 180 million last year (representing an annual increase of Equipment: Improper maintenance, service and calibration, 2.5 per cent), and revenues rising inaccurate records, lack of protection against radiation, etc. to a record $16.8 billion, up 3.1 per cent. But risks remain. You Emergencies: Slips and falls, fire, earthquake, flood, power may be familiar with the case outages, etc. of the Winnipeg woman who developed a life-threatening Product: Problems caused by lack of proper technical training, infection after getting a compliance to procedures, product modifications, crosspedicure, just before she contamination of products, etc. was supposed to leave on a dream vacation to Europe Treatments and Services: Lacking proper training and/or with her sons. Paramedics patient/client screening, hair removal services causing burning had to transport her directly etc., manicure/pedicure/hydrotherapy infections, adverse from the Toronto airport to reactions, misuse of products, misleading or miscommunicated hospital moments before client benefits. boarding. Or the even more chilling incident in Lots can go wrong, but please don’t let me in any way deter you 2015 of the 24-year-old Las Vegas spa from the many fabulous reasons to get into the spa business or worker who, one night after hours, died from expand the business you’re already asphyxia caused by low oxygen levels in a What I am seeing is spa owners running. Understanding your market, cryotherapy chamber incorporating liquid following proper guidelines for hygiene nitrogen. investing in energy devices like and cleanliness, hiring the right people I haven’t even touched on lawsuits lasers in the hope of capturing a and using your business acumen and arising from inappropriate touching – like piece of that $4 billion pie. With common sense can keep you out of the case in September 2017 where a trouble – while paying big dividends, therapist in Washington, DC, made blurred lines between who is both emotional and financial. Just do significant sexual advances without your homework and know the risks. And consent towards a client. The therapist qualified and who isn't, laser treatments remain one of the if you are not sure, seek professional apologized and claimed not to know what guidance. prompted his behaviour, but the damage most unregulated medical was done. There are almost too many other risks to procedures in Canada. outline here. Each could (and perhaps will) Vivienne O’Keeffe, AAD, PEA, CIBTAC, is President of Spa be the subject of its own future story. But a short list includes: Profits Consulting Inc., and an expert in designing successful spa concepts. She is also an international consultant in developing product lines, treatment plans and training Financial: Fraud, cybercrimes, scams, embezzlement, internal programs, a member of ISPA and Spa Industry Association of and external theft, personal use of business resources. Canada (for which she won an Outstanding Industry Service Award in 2001, 2005 and 2012), and a member of Inventory Loss: Internal and external. International Management Consultants Inc.

20 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 018

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spa business

Managing the Financial Side of Your Spa

B Y S U S A N WAT K I N

very business survives not only on its customer service or products, but on its financial foundation. A lot of business owners shy away from the financial talk, which can seem overwhelming as it isn’t your specialty or your expertise, but therefore you need to look for guidance elsewhere. I’ve worked with hundreds of small businesses, all in various stages of their business’ lifecycle. Though the industries vary, the concerns and questions are most often the same. Here are the “Big 3” finance issues we deal with every day with our clients. Financial Foundation Your financial foundation is created when you first think of starting your business, and never stops being important. The foundation is made up of your financial projections (sales lifecycle, seasonality of your business, advertising, and staffing expectations, to name a few) and part budget (cash flow for the slow periods, debt repayment needs, investments coming in, and CRA payments). Spend time on your planning, as this is what will help you price your

Your financial foundation is created when you first think of starting your business, and never stops being important. www. s pa inc .c a

spa business

product or services, and review it often to manage your profit margins. If you are unsure of this, seek help from a small business accountant or small business centre in your area to help you work through this. Even if you’re already open for business, if you don’t feel you have a good grasp on finances and are unsure if you’re making a profit, seek guidance before you get overwhelmed. Look in your area for innovation clusters, entrepreneurship and business centres, and development corporations; many of these have funded programs to either assist you in the above, or to provide funding and access to someone in your area that can assist you. Concentrate on Cash Flow This is probably the number one issue of all businesses out there, and it can only really be managed when you have your financial foundation in place. Your cash flow is what will make or break your business in many cases. You might have a profitable business, but if you’ve tied up your actual cash in things like inventory and debt repayment, you will struggle with paying your employees or your rent. When the cash gets tight, you need to take a serious look at your numbers to understand what is going on. Have you overextended yourself on debt repayment? Are you not planning and putting money aside for your HST payments? Do you have products sitting around that you can’t seem to move? All these things impact your cash flow, but not your bottom line. Get back to your financial planning and look ahead when it comes to things like inventory. Don’t buy what you don’t need just to have it take up space in a closet. If the debt is weighing you down, get to the bank and discuss refinancing. Look to other loan options, such as the Business Development Bank of Canada (BDC), to help ease the pressure. Spas need a lot of equipment – expensive equipment - so watch your financing and make sure you can handle the payments. Talk to your bank or your local business advisory centre for guidance. Pricing for Profitability To be profitable, you need to define it for yourself first: Where do you want or need to be? Understanding where you want to be will help you set up properly. What do you need to take home at the end of the day? Do you have a list of all the costs associated with your business? If I asked you, could you tell me exactly what goes into a 24 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 018

shellac manicure or a facial and break down the costs for all those items? No? You need to, as otherwise how do you know what to charge? Yes, there are industry standards, but don’t follow standards blindly if it means you have no profitability; don’t assume the neighbour next door has it together either, do your own due diligence. When you understand what everything will cost you, you can then figure out what you need to charge and how many of those sales you need to make to get to your desired profit. Many businesses don’t enjoy accounting, but think about how great you’ll feel when you truly understand how it works in your business. Dealing with the accounting work for your business can sometimes be overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be daunting. Focusing on your business is key to get your product and service moving, and as tempting as it is to go it alone, invest in the support, if you need it, so it doesn’t railroad all your hard work. Susan Watkin is the owner of Watkin Small Business Services, an accounting, bookkeeping, and small business education firm in southern Ontario. She is a selfproclaimed non-blogger, but endeavors to share about important small business issues, experiences, and best practices as often as possible.

in the know

EYES

ON THE

SPA BY HERMIONE WILSON

he eyes are the windows to the soul, so they say. But what if those windows are looking a bit tired and bedraggled? Signs of aging and fatigue seem to show up around the eyes before they appear anywhere else, so it’s no wonder clients are flocking to the spa for treatments that target this critical area. The Clarins Anti-Aging Facial at Spa My Blend by Clarins is one such solution. The facial includes a suggested addition, the 15-minute Anti-Aging Eye Treatment, which begins with a cleansing eye makeup remover that contains rose extract, followed by a gentle exfoliation, and a special massage of the area around the eye designed to improve blood circulation. “This area is very, very sensitive and of course it handles a lot of stress, laughing, crying, and different emotions,” says spa manager Lana Storchak. “The skin reacts to that, and we see the most lines, wrinkles and visible experience around the eye area. It needs to be treated very carefully.” At Hand and Stone Massage and Facial Spa, clients who are concerned about puffiness around their eyes or are looking to lift, tighten and hydrate the area may seek out the spa’s Lip and Eye Treatment. “Depending on what your needs are, we will use a stress positive eye lift treatment with our cooling wands which will depuff, lift and revitalize your eyes for you,” says Victoria Pryor, esthetician. “Or we do have the microcurrent treatment that will use micro vibrations to push product in and around your eyes to help product penetrate deeper into your skin.” Between visits to the spa, clients can care for their eyes by using an eye mask product at least twice a week after exfoliating the face, Storchak suggests. “[They should] use cream or eye gel morning and night; in the morning to moisturize and protect, and to give a nice base for the makeup, and for the evening, after the eye area is cleaned, to moisturize and to relax the skin,” she says. Storchak says Spa My Blend teaches its clients to use the palm of their hands rather than their fingertips to apply eye cream as a self massage. “When you use that part of your hands, you cover more area around the eyes,” she says.

1. O XYGEN BOTANICALS Eye Serum www.oxygenbotanicals.ca 2. N ELLY DE VUYST BioTense Eye Contour Gel www.dermeco.com (Canadian Distributor) www.luxuryorganik.com (US Distributor) 3. D IEGO DALLA PALMA Icon Eyes www.intercosmetics.ca 4. D ERMALOGICA Stress Positive Eye Lift www.dermalogica.com 5. C LARINS Replenishing Total Eye Balm Mask www.clarins.ca

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science of the spa

AGING DÉCOLLETÉ BY DR. DIANE WONG

New options abound for sun-damaged and aging skin

he décolleté is often neglected by women. Now more than ever, as women are aging better than ever in their faces, having concentrated all their efforts there, the décolleté is showing more age and sun damage. This has resulted in a discord between their faces and their décolleté. There have been many recent advances in facial treatments and we are now discovering that some of these treatments are ideal for the décolleté as well. Why has there been such a lag in décolleté treatments? It took many years for women to train themselves to use proper skin care on their faces. Now that we are looking after our faces with washing twice a day, applying serums, moisturizers, and sunscreen, we have to train women to do the same for their neck and décolleté. For some women, time is the issue. For others it may be the cost, since it means applying two to three times the amount of product we are applying to our skin when we add the neck and décolleté area into our skin regimen.

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science of the spa

The décolleté has traditionally been more difficult to treat and there is often more sun damage compared to the face. We have thinner skin and fewer oil glands in the décolleté and the area is often exposed to the sun. Also, consider that when we make an attempt to protect our faces and wear a hat, it covers our face but not our décolleté. What options did women have for décolleté treatments in the past? The same skin care products you use on your face should be used on the décolleté. Sunscreen and vitamin C are the two most crucial products. For a step above skin care products, we used to recommend microdermabrasion in-office or chemical peels for exfoliation. We still suggest these initial steps for treatment, however, the damage is often more extensive and requires additional in-office procedures. For more severe skin issues, such as a leathery chest with a lot of sun damage, there were limited options in the past. Procedures such as ablative resurfacing lasers, including carbon dioxide (CO2) lasers and erbium YAG lasers, were suggested but these procedures involved significant pain, downtime and risk. The risk was especially high with darker or ethnic skin types. These invasive procedures have fallen out of favour due to the many downsides and also due to the many non-invasive options now available. What are the treatment options now? The most popular treatments for the décolleté address the primary complaint: the texture of the skin. Crepey skin or leathery 28 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 018

skin are common presenting conditions and are usually caused by sun damage. Also, freckles or pigmentation that covers the entire chest area becomes unsightly and aging in appearance. Treatment options now for the décolleté are vast and most can be done with little or no downtime or discomfort. Lunchtime treatments have been the most popular options because even if there is any redness or swelling after the treatments, the area can be easily covered. For early sun damage, chemical peels, OxyGeneo, or other exfoliating treatments are often the first line of attack and can be done simply and effectively. We also suggest IPL (Intense Pulse Light), BBL (Broad Band Light) or LHE (Light Heat Energy) which all target pigmentation, redness, and superficial collagen. These light-based treatments can make a significant difference for the surface skin issues and superficial sun damage presenting as brown pigmentation, redness, or mild wrinkling. For mild-moderate sun damage or crepiness, micro-needling is very successful in stimulating collagen regeneration. There has been a resurgence of micro-needling devices and techniques, also in combination with various topical products for a mesotherapy approach. PRP or Platelet Rich Plasma is an effective adjunct to micro-needling. Also known as the "vampire facelift", PRP involves taking a single tube of blood via standard venopuncture. The tube is centrifuged right away in the clinic to separate the red and white cells from the platelets and plasma. The red and white cells are discarded. The platelets and plasma are the useful components that can then be applied topically on the skin after micro-needling to stimulate growth factors. Results of collagen

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science of the spa

stimulation are heightened with this synergistic approach and clients enjoy smoother, softer skin. Redness is often secondarily improved as well. Taking micro-needling a step ahead, treatments such as VoluDerm micro-needling specifically target the crepey skin of the décolleté with volumizing effects but do not involve injection of fillers. VoluDerm is a great lunchtime treatment option. The synergic effect is created by combining radiofrequency, galvanic energy, and micro-needling into one simple treatment. It is very comfortable and extremely well tolerated. The combination treatment stimulates hyaluronic acid production, new collagen, and elastin which tightens the skin as well. For moderate or severe sun damage, lasers that can target down to the dermal-epidermal junction are ideal. PicoSure Laser uses a FOCUS Lens Array which targets just above the dermalepidermal junction, exactly to the level which is most beneficial to reduce wrinkles and decrease pigmentation with the least downtime possible. These fractionated laser beams are very fast (measured in picoseconds, which are one trillionth of a second), faster than other lasers used in the past. The PicoSure laser

breaks up pigmentation with pressure waves rather than heat. Originally designed as a tattoo removal laser, the benefits of picosecond laser treatments were recognized and used more as an extremely effective anti-aging treatment (although it is very effective for tattoo removal as well). The benefits of this very rapid laser are a stimulation of collagen, a decrease in pigment, and an improvement in texture, all in one treatment. To note, there is no significant downtime with redness and swelling lasting only a few hours usually and almost always less than 24 hours. Treatments are comfortable and require no anaesthetic or analgesics. Three to four treatments are suggested about a month apart. Most skin types can be safely treated, even darker skin, which is another one of the main benefits of the PicoSure laser. For extremely damaged skin, lasers such as Fraxel, fractionated resurfacing lasers that can go deeper into the dermal layer are suggested. There is usually redness and swelling that lasts two to three days and a topical numbing cream is required for one hour prior to the treatment. Three to four treatments are suggested about a month apart for best results. Previously, injectable hyaluronic acid was not a good option for the very thin skin of the décolleté. Now, however, injectable hyaluronic acid, such as Restylane Skin Boosters, has been gaining in popularity. It is very effective and has a high satisfaction rate for treating wrinkles of the chest, even within the bust creases. Two treatments are suggested about a month apart. Small little bumps and bruising may be visible for a day or two so best to keep that area covered until resolved. Why is this an exciting time for anti-aging treatments for the décolleté? In my opinion, this is the most exciting time for anti-aging treatments for the décolleté. It has always been a difficult area to treat. We constantly see women who have more significant lines, wrinkles, and sun damage on their décolleté than they have on their faces. The telltale crepiness of the décolleté is one of the most aging features in mature or sun-damaged women. At last, we can now effectively combat these signs of aging with impressive new treatments that have recently been introduced into medical spas and skin care clinics. These new treatments address multiple issues of aging skin in the décolleté with no pain and very little downtime or risk. Treatment of the décolleté has a very high satisfaction rate and we can now confidently make recommendations to our clients with many treatment options.

Dr. Diane Wong is the owner of Glow Medi Spa with three locations in Yorkville, Markham and Aurora, Ontario. Glow Medi Spa was awarded a Top 25 Spa in Canada for 2017 by Spa Inc. and Leading Spas of Canada.

30 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 018

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• Wrinkles • Mature & aged skin • Moisture loss • Sun damage • Photo aging

• Wrinkles • Fine lines • Fatigue face • Melanin formation • Dehydration

• Skin Complexion • Dark Circles • Puffiness

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Acne Advanced Cleansing Foam

The Acne Advanced Cleansing Foam is a unique liquid-to-foam cleanser that provides lightweight acne cleansing action, effectively preventing acne breakouts and clearing blocked pores. Featuring timerelease encapsulated salicylic acid combined with a natural herb blend, this cleanser soothes and tones to address the look of uneven skin. The first step in Eminence Organics' new Acne Advanced Treatment System, this cleanser works with two other products to help to treat acne in 28 days. www.eminenceorganics.com

ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAMME

Skin Complete

Beautiful skin begins from within and the cutting-edge ingredients found in topical skin care products are now available in oral supplements. Skin Complete is a powerful duo-pack that pairs Skin Vitamin A+ with Skin Antioxidant to synergistically enhance skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s protection against UV damage and reduce the risk of premature aging. A combination of vitamins, minerals and other effective nutrients, Skin Complete helps stimulate the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cellular growth while nourishing, correcting and protecting the deeper layers. www.stogryn.ca

PRO BEAUTY GROUP

JamGel

Imagine if gel and acrylic had a baby. Its name would be JamGel. JamGel combines the strength of an acrylic powder, with the workability of a gel nail to create the ultimate nail enhancement product. The all-in-one formula provides the perfect working consistency, so you can work as fast or as slow as you want. No monomer, no mixing, no ratios; just one simple product. www.pro-beauty.com

32 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 018

fresh & new

LCN

Anti Age Hand Treatment

Reverse the signs of aging with an LCN Anti Age Hand Treatment using the most powerful anti-aging ingredients from the sea. This treatment reduces formation of wrinkles, promotes regeneration of the skin, protects against loss of moisture, promotes the skin renewal process, and provides a soothing stabilization of the skin’s barrier. Free of parabens, silicone and mineral oil and suitable for all skin types, this product is 100 per cent gluten-free. The LCN anti-aging trio allows your spa to offer a new service to those seeking preventive and/or combative measures against the aging effects of stress. www.lcneast.com

BLISS

Pore Patrol Deep Detox Four-Clay Soufflé Mask

Bliss has relaunched and introduced a number of exciting new products, including the Pore Patrol Deep Detox Four-Clay Soufflé Mask. This silky soufflé mask gently exfoliates to purify and unclog pores with powerful ingredients such as glycolic acid, Moroccan Lava, Bentonite and Kaolin clays. The potent formula creates an enriching, deep cleansing experience. The mask’s aerated delivery helps to refresh and smooth skin while hydrating and cooling to avoid leaving the surface dry or tight. Bliss’s mask is cruelty-free and free of parabens, phthalates, and sulfates. www.BlissWorld.com

DURI COSMETICS

Destiny Collection

Duri launches a new collection of 12 enchanting shades for the individualistic, creative, beautiful, soulful and successful women who love long-lasting polish. The Fall/Winter 2018-2019 collection is called Destiny, and was inspired by the zodiac signs. There is a colour for every mood, every occasion and every personality. As Summer moves into Fall, just like the currents of the Pisces water sign, transition your nail colours to this chocolate red. This shade is sweet emotion. Aquarius, the winter air sign, is deep and rebellious. This warm winter red is like cinnamon, with just the right amount of spice to warm the spirit during the cold season. www.duri.com

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DISPENSER AMENITIES

SOLera

NIKO ORGANICS

Astaxanthin-A Supreme Antioxidant Oil

SOLera can be customized to feature your amenity selection or enhance your spa’s décor. The dispenser is locking and tamper-proof, featuring stainless steel pumps. The tamper-proof gate easily swings opens to accommodate refilling the bottles and then snaps closed, locking the bottles firmly in place. The unique wall bracket is adjustable to accommodate three different sizes and shapes of bottles; either oval or square. No tools required and no wall damage. www.dispenser-amenities.com

Niko’s unique formula of extreme antioxidants features a revolutionary blend of high concentrations of vitamin A, perfectly combined with highly concentrated vitamin C super fruits, which delivers a delicious blend of organic therapeutic oils that offer the skin unparalleled anti-aging benefits. Astaxanthin is recognized as one of the world’s strongest mega-rich antioxidants. Clinical studies indicate that astaxanthin is rich in carotenoids (vitamin A). A simple taste of this exotic elixir and your clients’ skin will be hooked for life. www.niko.com

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spa star

VIVIEN BROWN, M.D. BY HERMIONE WILSON

n a world rife with anti-aging potions and serums, Torontobased family physician Vivien Brown has zeroed in on the keys to aging gracefully, not just physically, but mentally and emotionally as well. Brown lectures around the world about healthy aging and women’s health, and her book A Woman’s Guide to Healthy Aging, shines a spotlight on the unique issues facing women during the aging process and gives them the steps they need to take now to age better later. You identify seven key areas of women’s health with regards to healthy aging. What are some simple, practical steps women can take toward healthy aging? One of the most important things is quitting smoking. It has a huge impact on your overall health. It has an impact on cardiac health, on brain health, it has an impact everywhere. We also look at exercise as being really important because it keeps your weight appropriate for your height, keeps you strong, and keeps you fit. What that also does is helps you maintain balance. When we look at osteoporosis in older women who have a hip fracture, it’s often a woman who may not be as fit as she could have been or may not have the balance that she should have had at that age. When we look at prevention, it’s so important to prevent some of the vaccine-preventable diseases like pneumonia and influenza. Those are some of the leading causes of death in Canada. When you have a significant case of pneumonia, when you are admitted to the hospital over the age of 65 for influenza, about 10 per cent of people don’t go back to independent living. We can’t control genetics and we can’t control getting older, but if we control the modifiable risk factors, we’ll be able to handle those diseases in a healthier way. So the purpose of this book is not about how to stay young longer, but how to maintain good health as you age. Right. So at any age, how would we define being in good health? We would define it as living independently, being able to make our own decisions, being socially connected. You see some women in their 60s that may be physically fit and they look like they’re in 36 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 018

their 40s, but we also see women in their 40s that may look and act like they’re in their 60s and 70s. I think we want to be the best that we can be at whatever age we are. I have a [patient] in her very early 90s who gets annoyed with me when I’m running late, because she has a tennis game to get to. Well, that’s the way I want to be. I want to be independent, I want to be living a healthy lifestyle, and I want to still be doing sports and activities at age 90, not living in a wheelchair in a chronic care facility. What is one thing you learned in your research for this book that surprised you? I think the thing that surprises me the most is that 70 per cent of new cases of Alzheimer’s are in women. One of the things we can do to help prevent [brain] deterioration is social connectedness, learning new things, taking care of our hearts – because heart health and brain health are connected. Taking care of our blood pressure, our cholesterol, exercise – all of these have an impact on brain health. If you do have some trauma, or an accident or whatever, you want your brain to be able to adapt to that, and all of that is the healthy choices we make when we’re younger. How do you maintain health and wellness in your own life? I’m very socially connected. I’m connected with all kinds of projects and people and things that I’m interested in. The second thing I do is, for the last couple of years, I’ve been wearing a Fitbit and I’ve been working hard, no matter how many hours I’m in the office, to get my 10,000 steps a day. I don’t get 10,000 steps every day, but I’m aiming for it. I also talk a lot about immunization in my work and I will share with your readers that I have been immunized for everything. I really believe strongly that if we can prevent some of the vaccine-preventable diseases, then we can have a huge impact on our health. Have you been to the spa, and if so what was your favourite spa treatment? Of course I go to the spa! I think that relaxation and downtime and, if you go with a friend, socializing is really important. One of my favourite treatments to get is a massage where I really just relax my muscles. I like it when I get a Thai massage and they help me do some stretching at the same time.

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