Following the Legend of Archer 1 October 2012 - 4 November 2012
Supporting
By Ed Fernon
Giving the horses some grass at Riverview before the dinner
Pre�aratio� After qualifying for the 2012 London Olympic Games, I really wanted leverage my status as an Olympian and do something to make a difference. Mum had suffered from depression, so I decided that I wanted to make an impact in this area. At �rst, I wasn’t quite sure what to do, but after a few months of thought, I remembered watching ‘Archers Adventure’, starring Nicole Kidman. The �lm follows the legend of the racehorse, Archer, who had supposedly walked from Nowra to Melbourne before winning the inaugural Melbourne Cup in 1861. Re�ecting on this �lm planted a seed in my mind, as I wondered whether such a journey would be possible today. That night, I met with my friend Mitch Wall and asked him what he thought of the idea of riding from Sydney to Melbourne on a horse. He was very enthusiastic and said that he’d be happy to help out any way he could. After meeting with Mitch, I started doing some research. My biggest concern was that riding on the road was quite dangerous; however, I found some information regarding the National Bicentennial Trail – the longest walking trail in the world, starting from Cooktown, QLD and ending at Healesville, just outside of Melbourne. Initially, I thought that the best starting point would be Nowra, as this is where Archer supposedly left from. However, after some research, I found that the route from Nowra to Canberra on horse would be very dangerous, and would require a lot of riding on main roads. I then discovered that Archer was born and bred in Braidwood, and many relatives of Archer’s owners were still living there. Even better, was the fact that there were �re trails most of the way from Braidwood to Canberra, where I could link up with the Bicentennial National Trail (BNT). It was also fortunate that the BNT would take me through many rural areas that had been impacted by natural disasters such as �ood, drought and �re. This included riding through Marysville that had been decimated by the Victorian Bush�res in 2009.
Mum & I as we leave Bindi Station
After deciding on a route I met with Mitch and his dad, Ross, to discuss fundraising options. Ross always has great ideas and a lot of connections, so I was very grateful that he was able to help out. Our aim was to raise as much money as possible, but more importantly, to raise awareness of depression and bipolar in the community. We thought the best way to fundraise would be to organise a large farewell dinner as well as community events all the way along the trail. We decided to raise funds for The Black Dog Institute, which is a not-for-pro�t organisation, and world leader in the diagnosis, treatment and prevention of mood disorders such as depression and bipolar disorder. I attended an information and training session at the Institute which gave me the skills to be able to talk about depression and give advice. I was also honoured to be named a Blackdog Ambassador. I knew that undertaking a journey like this would cost a lot of money, and I would need signi�cant sponsorship. Not only would I require money for fuel, equipment, food and general expenses, but I would also need to �nd horses capable of undertaking the journey. In addition, we would need to source a support vehicle capable of towing a horse �oat. I wrote letters to potential sponsors, and after numerous rejection letters, we �nally had some luck, with sponsorship from Archer Capital. Archer Capital is one of Australia’s leading private equity �rms, with $3 billion in funds under management. The company has horse racing links, and was named after the original Archer, so it was a natural �t for them to support our venture. After explaining our plan to Peter Wiggs, the Chief Executive Officer of Archer Capital, he committed $15,000 towards our expenses for the ride. This pledge was the tipping point, where the idea had turned into a reality. Once we had Archer Capital on board, we began to gain serious momentum. We set up a fundraising page with Everyday Hero, as well as a website through Ideas and Directions. Archer at Wagga Wagga Ag Races
We received sponsorship from Horseland ($500 worth of equipment), Mita-vite (provided feed for the horses), Wintec (three new saddles), Huff and Puff (promotional gear including our shirts and all other branding), ARB (provided the winch and car fridge), Epirb Hire (Sat Phones and Emergency Rescue Beacon), and Talking Stones (built a headstone for Archer). Dave Pembroke’s Content Group also supported us, and gave us Media and strategy advise for the ride. Imperial Floats agreed to loan us a brand new horse �oat for the duration of the trip, as well as a $2000 donation and, through the organisation of my mate, Tom Gillespie, we were loaned an Audi Q7 from Richard Rolfe at Audi Canberra. David Vaux also contributed $5,000 which was very generous and made a big difference. While I was arranging sponsorship, I was also looking for horses that might be appropriate for the trip. I was looking for big horses that would stand out in the crowd, that were quiet in traffic and were Bay, like the original Archer. I contacted my friend, Verity Charters, who lived in Geelong. She had a family connection with a guy called Geoff Morrison, who had horses she thought might suit my requirements. I called Geoff and he was happy to help out, so I �ew down to Geelong to ride some of his horses and see whether they were appropriate. All of his horses were in paddock condition but Geoff had two that were full brothers, Banjo and Flynn. They looked very similar and �tted the criteria perfectly. The horses were 16hh thoroughbreds with a bit of Clydesdale, which gave them a beautiful nature. Banjo in particular looked identical to the original Archer. I knew I wouldn’t have the time to get them �t myself, so I asked Verity whether she would get the horses ready.
Archer and I
Trial Ride with Verity in Healesville, VIC
Trial Ride with John & Joe Kasch & Verity in Narbethong, VIC
Verity kindly agreed, and she rode the horses while I was away at the Olympics. When I got back, I decided to travel down to Geelong for a few practice rides. Verity and I took the two horses out to Joann and John Kasch who lived at Narbethong, VIC and had a lot of experience as pack horse riders. We went on a few rides with them and they taught us a lot of important lessons for the trip. They were both very kind in helping us select the gear, and organising the tack and navigation. My primary goal was to get from Braidwood to Melbourne on a horse, but the most important thing was to raise awareness of depression and hopefully some funds in the process. My aunty Beck and Mitch pooled their media experience together to create an unstoppable machine. As a cameraman for Channel 9 News, Mitch knew exactly what the news teams wanted. Mitch organised Simon Bouda, a Channel 9 News reporter, to �y down from Sydney to Wagga Wagga, to meet me at Hanericka Farmstay, where Mum grew up. There he shot a fantastic story for Channel 9 News. Mitch also had an ingenious idea to provide video footage to all the different news agencies. He said that by providing them all with great footage, other news outlets would be more likely to air it, as they didn’t have to do the work themselves. While Mitch was busy with the visual media Beck was organising radio and newspaper coverage. Beck wrote a series of press releases that received a lot of coverage. Also, through her contacts as an ABC radio journalist, she was able to organise a number of radio interviews. Another key consideration in my preparation was �nding a support driver. Due to the fact I was planning to travel over 1000km in �ve weeks, I knew I’d need a support driver to meet me at the campsites each night. The support driver would be responsible for packing up the campsite, transporting the horses, setting up the campsites, picking up supplies, driving behind me on very busy roads for safety and also assisting with the events at each town. Checking the trail
Fundraiser event at Wagga Wagga | Meeting our main sponsor Peter Wiggs from Archer Capital | Alex speaking at the Archer fundraising dinner at Riverview | Speaking at the fundraising dinner at Riverview
Pre�aratio� Continue� It was also critical that we fed the horses hard feed so that they kept their
Gillespie. Tom, who was in the year below me at Riverview and St John’s
condition for as long as possible, and in order to do this, we would need the
College, did a fantastic job organising the event and obtaining some great
vehicle on hand. I spoke to quite a few people about coming on board as my
auction items, including a ski trip to New Zealand, and a �shing trip to
support driver, but most people simply couldn’t take that much time off
Darwin. Tomalso convinced the famous Wallaby, Matt Burke, to come on
work. Then one day at swimming training, I mentioned it to one of my
board as the MC for the dinner. While I was away at the Olympics, I was able
training partners Michael Techera. He jumped at the idea and was more than
to recruit Libby Trickett to speak at the event. Libby was an Olympic Gold
happy to come on board to drive the Audi Q7 Support Vehicle.
medallist swimmer, who spoken publicly about her own battles with depression and had a lot to do with the Black Dog Institute. I was also able
After I arrived home from the London Olympics I didn’t have any down time
to get Jess Fox on board. Jess was the winner of a silver medal at London in
as there was so much work to be done. Verity was busy getting the horses
the Canoe Slalom. The night was a huge success. It started with pre-drinks
�t, Mikey was mapping out the routes and Mitch and Beck were organising
on the grass outside the Riverview Chapel with the horses, and then a three
the media. Although we were each doing our separate parts we also
course dinner inside the Memorial Hall. Matt Burke was a terri�c MC. I spoke
organising the fundraisers. The �rst fundraising event was held at the Wagga
about the upcoming journey, and then we had the panel of Libby, Jess and I
Wagga Beach, in association with the Lions Club. Having a lot of family and
talking about our experiences at the Olympic Games. However, the most
friends in Wagga Wagga I thought this would be a great �rst event. It was
memorable moment of the night was Mum’s speech, as she bravely opened
also a good opportunity to speak with some of the locals, as well as some
up to many family and friends about her battles with depression. Her speech
rural media outlets. Following the fundraiser, I rode from Wagga Wagga
was very inspiring and de�nitely helped with the fundraising effort, as at the
Beach to the Wagga Wagga Racecourse, where the Ag Races were taking
end of the night we had raised over $30,000.
place. The Riverina Turf Club invited me to gallop with Archer down the main strait between Races 5 & 6. The race announcer explained the
One thing I learned from competing in Modern Pentathlon was the
upcoming journey I would be undertaking, and encouraged everyone to
importance of a good support team. I felt incredibly grateful and privileged
donate.
to have so many people lend a hand. In particular special mention needs to go to Mitch Wall, Rebecca Gorman, Ross Wall, Michael Techera, Verity
The second fundraiser before I left was a big formal dinner at my old school, St Ignatius’ College, Riverview which was organised by my friend Tom
Charters and Tom Gillespie, who were crucial in turning this idea into reality.
Joining Jess Fox, Matt Burke and Libby Trickett who all spoke at the Archer Dinner
The Archer team- Michael Techera, Verity Charters, Alex Gorman, Ed Fernon, Mitch wall, Tom Gillespie and Rebecca Gorman
Da� On� - Read� t� G� Archer's Gravesite, Durham Hall to Mulloon Campsite (42km)
The �rst day of the ride was truly incredible. It felt like we’d packed
It dawned a beautiful clear day, with mist steaming off the water.
three days into one.
We had all the major television networks turn up, as well as Andrew Meares, a renowned news photographer, who came out to
We started the day at Jemaicumbene Creek, on Durham Hall, the
try to get a good portrait shot. “If it's good it might turn up on the
property owned by James Royds. This location had been chosen
front page” were his words – so of course, given that this ride was
for the unveiling of Archer's head stone due to its signi�cant links
all about raising awareness for depression research, we were keen.
to the original Archer. Archer was buried along the creek and James Royds was a descendent of the owners and breeders of Archer.
Waiting for the start.
Nine Reporter Roz Kelly organising the news story with Mitch
Beck speaking at the Black Dog fundraiser in Braidwood
Leaving Archer's Garvesite at Durham Hall
Mum and I riding across the paddocks from Archers Gravesite at Durham Hall towards Braidwood
Mum and I at the Archer Picnic Area in Braidwood
Police escort into Braidwood
Riding out of Braidwood and having a chat to Gold Medalist Neil Lavis
Dad and I at the Black Dog fundraiser in Braidwood | Mitch and Beck discussing the day ahead | The two Grandmothers Eileen Fernon and Anne Gorman being interviewed by weekend sunrise | Mum and I at the fundraiser in Briadwood | Local Olympians-Eventing Bronze Medalist Merv Bennett and Gold Medalist Neil Lavis and I | The two grandmothers riding in the carriage out of Braidwood
Being interviewed by Brad McEwan for Channel 10 news | Mitch on the Araluen Road coming into Braidwood | Mum being interviewed by Brad McEwan for Channel 10 news | Main street of Braidwood- Mitch Wall shooting the story for Channel 9 | Mitch Wall and James Royds at Archers Gravesite, Durham Hall. | Mitch shooting the story for Channel 9
Descendants of Archers owners Margaret Royds and Mrs. Olive Royds cutting the ribbon
Family support- Vince, Laura, Alice, Michelle, Joe and Therese | Mum and Beck before the start at Durham Hall | Family Support- Paul, Therese, Mum, Mon, Nan, Pip & Vince | Friends Anna Cosgrave, Helen Zhang and Paddy Mayoh who joined me for the fundraiser in Braidwood
Da� On� Con�. Archer's Gravesite, Durham Hall to Mulloon Campsite (42km)
First, James Royds, Mum and I unveiled the grave stone, before taking the horses through the creek a few times for the camera. Once these shots had been taken, we set off across the paddocks towards Braidwood. When we got to the main road we met up with a couple who wanted to cycle along with us. The woman said to mum, "Hi there. We're supporting you because my husband Tim here has bipolar." “That's fantastic!" Mum said, and then blushed, but of course everybody laughed including Tim – we knew what she meant. When we got to Braidwood the local policeman, John Jones, gave us a police escort up the main street, and the crowd that had gathered in the local park cheered us in. I think I saw my aunties crying watching Mum riding up the street waving to everybody – it was pretty surreal and amazing to feel how much this ride already meant to people, whether it be family, friends or strangers. Once we arrived at the Park we joined in with the BlackDog fundraiser. The local Lions club had a BBQ going and Sly Fox from Canberra had come over to sell coffee. The BlackDog Institute also had a tent and was selling ribbons that sold out very quickly. Before we took off Beck said a few words and introduced the speakers. The �rst was the new mayor of Braidwood, Peter Harrison who gave a welcome. Second was Yass GP, Dr. Raja Ahluwalia who spoke on behalf of the BlackDog institute. Third was Mrs. Margaret Royds who spoke on behalf of the Royds family that had bred the super stallion. Fourth, was Channel Ten reporter Brad McEwan, who is also a Beyond Blue Ambassador, and told us of his own personal experience of depression. Lastly, I spoke about the ride ahead.
Mum and I riding into Braidwood
Riding with Mum down the main street of Braidwood
Mum and I riding down the main street of Braidwood
Da� On� Con�. Archer's Gravesite, Durham Hall to Mulloon Campsite (42km) After the speeches Margaret Royds and Mrs Olive Royds sent us on our
With so many hungry and enthusiastic participants, the food did not last
way by cutting the ribbon. Mum and I were joined by 18 horses and a
long!
horse drawn carriage from Rosscommon Carriages. We also had Roz Kelly a reporter from Channel 9 join us as well as reporter Brad McEwan who
Once we �nished lunch, I had a few television interviews, including
hadn’t been on a horse for years. It was also very special for me to ride
Channel Nine News with Roz Kelly, Weekend Sunrise and also some local
with two 2x Olympians – Mery Bennett (Bronze Medallist at Montreal ‘76
Canberra stations.
and Los Angeles ‘84), as well as Neal Lavis (Gold Medalist from the 1960 Rome Olympics and 1964 Mexico Games). Neil was particularly amazing
Once done, I then rode with Verity Charters for the �nal part of the day
as he is over 80 years old and still riding and training race horses.
across a few paddocks and then onto Malloon �re trail. Verity had helped get the horses �t for me in Geelong while I was away at the Olympic
A few hours later we arrived at Helen and Rob Faulkner's farm, “The
Games. We ended up riding for another 4.5 hours and arrived in the dark
Saddle Camp”, where Rob had put on an incredible spread of slow roasted
to a great camp �re meal cooked by Mitch Wall and Anna Cosgrave.
beef and salads.
Dad, Mum and I with Archers headstone, Durham Hall before the start | Mum with the headstone | Ed Fernon, Alex Gorman and James Royds unveiling the Archer headstone at Durham Hall outside Braidwood where Archer was buried
Photoshoot with Andrew Meers
Arriving for lunch on the �rst day at the saddleclub
Crossing the Shoalhaven River with Mum
Nine Reporter Roz Kelly organising the news story with Mitch
Beck speaking at the Black Dog fundraiser in Braidwood
Da� Tw� Mulloon Campsite to Guy's Cross B&B, Captains Flat Rd (36km)
We left the camp site late since we hadn’t really worked out our routine
along the trail we came upon a locked gate. We had the option of either
yet and we had to repack the car and clean up the campsite. Mitch rode
riding back and going down Captains Flat Road, or alternatively, riding
with me which was great. We had a great morning riding down a �re trail
down the edge of a cliff. Up for an adventure, we took the cliff option and
heading out of the Tallaganda National Park. Within a few kilometres
rode down, through the scrub and into the river below. When we got to
along the �re trail two men who were driving passed recognised me from
the river, we had to get off the horses and walk them through knee-deep
the ABC news the night before and stopped for a chat. They were very
mud. Both Mitch and I were completely drenched and muddy, but we
interested in the ride and gave a donation to the Black Dog Institute. For
made it to the other side to �nd a fence line that boarded a neighbouring
me it was very encouraging and exciting that our message was starting to
property. The neighbours saw us and were wondering who these two
get out. We then continued on our way and completed about 20km
crazy men were. Luckily for us they had also seen the story on the news
before we stopped for lunch at a little church in Hoskinstown.
the night before, and were more than happy to help us. The bush
telegraph then launched into action as these people called all the
After lunch I had a radio interview with ABC on the horse as we walked
neighbours along the way to give us passage to Guy’s Cross Farm Bed &
along the road. We then came across another gentleman out the front of
Breakfast. It was incredibly special for me to have all the gates opened
his home, who we stopped to chat to. He was very open with us about his
and to be greeted at each property, as well as each owner giving
personal battle with depression and grateful that we stopped to speak
encouragement as well as a donation. By the time we arrived at the B&B it
with him.
was dark, but we had an amazing day. Tim and his wife Roz had put a feast of home-grown kangaroo and snags which was delicious!
To avoid riding along Captains Flat Road, one of the most dangerous roads in NSW we decided to ride up another �re trail, however 1.5kms
Quick stop off along the �re trail
Arriving for lunch at the local church in Hoskinstown
Hoskinstown Church
In a bit of trouble. Trying to �nd a way out of this creek
Mitch having a laugh over how much trouble we are in
Mitch riding down Captains Flat Road
Mitch trying to lead his horse down the side of the rocky hill outside of Queanbeyan
Mitch riding down to Hoskinstown
Mitch and I travelled down a �re trail but came across a locked gate which forced us to ride down the side of a hill and across this creek
Da� �re� Guy's Cross to Yarralumla, ACT - via Parliament House (26km)
This was a day full of huge highs and lows. We set off very early from
Archer. Then we rode up the hill and came out in front of Parliament
Guy’s Cross Farm B&B and crossed Captains Flat Road. We then went
House to a generous group of media, including photographer Andrew
through the bush, before entering the streets of Canberra. We had been
Meares and his son Marlow, who at ten years old has dreams of becoming
running a bit behind time even though we'd left early. We rode along the
a Modern Pentathlete.. Andrew was right about the photo he took on the
pavement of many Canberra streets, getting looks from everyone we
�rst day of the ride – it had made the front page of The Age, as well as
passed. Mitch was on foot with his camera as I rode Archer.
page 3 in both The Canberra Times and The Sydney Morning Herald. It was such a honour to not only receive such fantastic coverage for this
As we went past a child care centre, all the children rushed to the fence,
cause, but also to have such memorable photos that I will cherish for a
so I stopped for a few minutes to talk with them and let them meet
lifetime.
Riding down a �re trail into Canberra
Riding past Parliament House
After I had a chat to the media, I then walked Archer up and down in front of Parliament House and also cantered up and down the hill on the sacred lawns. What an experience! That night all the television networks gave us a run, and we had done a number of radio interviews as well. I was blown away with the interest in the ride and hoped that I was getting the message across to the Australian public. After the media extravaganza at Parliament House, I noticed that Archer was starting to limp and there was no way I could continue riding him. I decided that the best thing to do was to �oat him to an overnight paddock. I called the vet and she arrived immediately. She checked him all over said that he had pulled a tendon and that he would need three months off. This was a massive blow so early on! I was devastated, as my main horse was stuffed for the rest of the trip, and now I only had one horse, Flynn, to ride the next 1000km! However, there
was no point moping around. I had to stay positive. We had started this ride to raise money and awareness of depression and the people living through this had to deal with a lot more than a horse going lame, so we all sprung into gear to �nd a solution. The �rst thing I did was call Olympian Neil Lavis who had rode with us out of Braidwood, and had mentioned that he had a horse that would have been suitable for our ride. When I called him, he told me that he had an ex-racehorse called Turbulent Tiger that had been sitting in the paddock for six weeks and would buck a lot. Although the horse wasn’t �t, I didn’t have any other option, so I organised for the horse to be picked up and for the farrier to put some shoes on it. My good friend Pip Coates, who was living in Canberra, also came over in the afternoon to lend a hand. She cleaned the �oat and ran a few errands for us. She also agreed to look after Archer for the next week or so while he was recovering.
Cantering down the lawns of Parliament house
Taking Andrew Meere's son Marlow for a ride
Da� Four Yarralumla, ACT to Outward Bound, Tharwa (41km)
We woke early, still trying to work through the difficulties of yesterday. Turbulent Tiger, or ‘Turbo’, was dropped off, and it was immediately apparent that he was pretty fat, fresh and in paddock condition. Once he had been shod, I took him up to the top arena at the Forest Park Riding School for a nervous �rst ride. Neil Lavis had said that he always bucked after a bit of a break, so if he was going to buck I wanted it to be in an arena rather than on the open road. After I lunged him around a few times, I jumped on him and cantered him around. After a few laps, he felt okay, so I decided I better get on my way as I was running out of time. As I walked down to saddle Flynn for the ride, I met the owner of the riding school, Grant Hughes, who was a very experienced horseman. He had heard about Archer and joined me to take a look. On inspecting the horse, he said that he thought the vet’s diagnosis was completely wrong as she couldn’t have known he had a torn tendon without a scan. He said that he had a lot of horses in the past with similar issues and that Archer was just sore after three days riding on the road. He suggested that we should give him a break for a week or two, and then test him out. We decided to give Archer a two week break until we got to Omeo and then see how was faring then. I set out for the day’s ride by myself. Getting out of Canberra was a nightmare. I had to ride on the edge of the Tuggeranong Parkway for quite a few kilometres, which was very dangerous. I was then able to head down a few local streets and then onto the Bicentennial Trail at the Murrumbidgee Country Club at Tuggeranong. This was an important moment in the trip, as I joined the trail that would take me all the way to Melbourne.
Crossing the Murrumbidgee River
Riding with Troy Caldwell, David and Dad | Riding out of Khancoban | Along the trail near Khancoban
Riding to Tharwa | Having a beer along the road | Mikey and I stopping for a quick break along the road | Mikey in the support vehicle driving behind me for safety
Da� Four Con�. Yarralumla, ACT to Outward Bound, Tharwa (41km) I had a few issues trying to get through locked gates, which shouldn’t have been locked. After a trip from Mikey to the hardware for bolt cutter we were able to get on our way. I rode all day on Flynn, with only a very short break, and when the sun set we were still a few kilometres away from our planned overnight spot. For the last ten or more kilometres, we rode along the edge of Tharwa Drive in the dark. I had Mitch and Mickey driving behind me in the support vehicle, which was very comforting. We arrived at Outward Bound at 8pm – everybody was exhausted, especially Flynn. We set up a portable yard and then went for dinner at the Outward Bound Kitchen. My good mate, Michael Everest, drove down from Canberra for dinner and also ended up staying the night in the Outward Bound dorms. Arriving at Outward bound in Tharwa at 8pm
Da� �v� An absolutely amazing expereince. Riding with a young girl who waited for me to ride past her house for hours. We had to swop horses as her pony was playing up
Running with Turbo to make up time
Da� �v� Outward Bound to Kooloola Farm (22.2km)
In exchange for the kind hospitality at Outward Bound, the manager
could give her a hand saddling up. I then rode up to the house and met
asked if I could speak with the staff about my journey. The talk went well
her parents, who were both lovely. I stopped for a cup of tea and a chat
and all the staff were really interested in the ride. After the talk we had
and then I went out to help her saddle her horse. The girls’ parents said
breakfast and then got on our way.
that after the ride they would bring down their horse �oat to Kooloola farm to pick up their daughter and join us for dinner. We then rode
Flynn was very sore and could barely walk, so I had to start out alone
together through their front paddock and back onto the dirt road. This
using Turbo, who Mickey had brought down from Yarralumla the day
young girl was very excited to join me and told me all about the local area
before. The track that morning had us riding down the road, which wasn’t
and her school. Once we left their property, the girls pony started playing
ideal, as it was my �rst proper ride on Turbo. As we walked down the road
up, so we swapped horses. I knew she would have no problems with
many people stopped to take photos and also donate money – many had
Turbo, who by this stage was too tired to cause any trouble. Once I
seen the media coverage and heard about the cause, and it was great to
jumped on her pony it starting bucking and carrying on but after a few
meet them all.
minutes I had it walking along nicely.
When we were about �ve kilometres out from Kooloola Farm, we turned
As we rode along the girl told me that she used to always ride with her
down a dirt road that went past a few other properties. In the distance, I
older sister but she passed away a few months ago of leukaemia.. This
could see a young girl sitting on her front gate next to her mail box. There
was pretty heartbreaking, as I could see that she was still very sad talking
were no cars or people around, and I was quite interested in what this
about it, but I felt incredibly honoured that she felt comfortable enough
young girl was up to. When I reached her, I asked, “Are you OK?” She said
to open up to me about such a personal experience.
that she had been waiting for me. I was a bit surprised, but she said that she had heard me on the radio and had looked up my ride on the
We rode for the rest of the afternoon and then arrived at Kooloola farm in
internetand had seen that I was to pass by her house. She then asked
the dark. Mitch and Mikey had a huge �re going, and had already set up
whether she could ride with me. I said, “Of course – do you have a horse
the tents, which was a great help.
to ride?” She told me that her pony was up at the yards, and asked if I
Meeting up with Mikey along the trail for morning tea | Walking down towards Kooloola Farm | Speaking in the morning to the sta at Outward bound | Starting to get a bit hilly
The girl’s parents arrived and we had dinner together. During dinner, I began talking to the young girl’s father who had told me that his daughters used to ride together, but since the eldest daughter passed away, the younger daughter hadn’t ridden at all. He told me that she had waited at the gate for six hours for me to arrive, and that he was very happy to see her riding again. He then went on to tell me that he struggled with severe depression after his daughter passed away, and gave me some great encouragement to continue on my trip. He was so supportive and said that this trip could make a big difference to rural communities where many of the people living with depression feel forgotten and isolated. This conversation was very sobering as I was just riding along the road, but to this young girl and her father it had such special signi�cance in their own journey of mourning and mending. This conversation gave me so much encouragement to keep pushing on and I promised myself that I’d make it to Melbourne no matter what happens. I will never forget that afternoon.
The campsite at Kooloola Farm
Da� S� Kooloola Farm to Mount Clear (28.7km)
Since yesterday Turbo hadn’t been ridden in six weeks so he was very sore
1100m. It was the �rst day since the beginning of the ride that I had the
in the morning. Flynn was looking a lot fresher after his day off so I
opportunity to re�ect on the previous few days, which had been so hectic
decided to take him. The ride to Kooloola Farm was the �rst day I was
and action-packed.
truly alone, as I had no one riding with me, no support vehicle and there were no passing cars. What made this day particularly difficult was that it
When I arrived at the Mt Clear campsite it was incredibly windy. Mitch and
was 2 degrees celsius, which was made worse with a lot of wind and rain. I
Mikey had set up camp, which was a relief. It was Mitch’s last day today, so
thought I was pretty well set up, but it turned out I didn't have it quite
once I took care of the horses I drove him back to Canberra. Up until this
sorted – I didn’t have gloves and my drizabone was leaking. After half an
point, Mitch had been the backbone of the entire trip. He had organised a
hour in the saddle, I couldn’t feel my hands. When I tried to eat my muesli
lot of the media on the �rst day, he had organised the events in
bar, my hands were so cold and stiff I couldn't even open the wrapper.
Braidwood, which were fantastic, and every time something went wrong
However, thinking of the inspiring day yesterday gave me motivation to
he was there to �x it. Now with Mitch leaving, I knew things would be a
keep moving.
lot tougher.
Aside from the discomfort, the ride was absolutely sensational and with
On my return to the campsite, I found that my uncle Henry had arrived
the most spectacular scenery thus far. It was also fantastic to see
with a few beers and hot meat pies for dinner. Henry tore down a few
hundreds of kangaroos and other wildlife along the trail and to check out
trees and got a massive �re going, then put up a tarp which Mikey, Henry
Horse Gully Hut where I signed the visitors’ book. I spent the whole day
and I huddled under while it rained. It was still very cold, but with a �re
riding along a narrow �re trail that steadily climbed from 700m up to
burning and protection from the rain, we got through it.
A misty morning at Kooloola Farm
Henry, Mikey and I absolutely freezing at Mount Clear campsite
Bush hut near Mount Clear
Da� Seve� Mount Clear, ACT to Yaouk NSW (41km)
We awoke to a very chilly morning with ice on the tent and a strong southerly wind blowing. After a quick breakfast, we packed up camp and then Henry and I saddled up the horses and got on our way. We left Mt Clear and headed south on Boboyan Road, which is a glori�ed �re trail. There was a lot of long weekend holiday traffic this morning as we approached the ACT/NSW state border. Many people stopped to have a chat, and one couple very kindly offered us some cold beers, which we had as we rode along. A lady from the Monaro Post also tracked us down for a photo shoot for the local paper. It was great to have Henry with me today – it’s always nice to ride with someone else! My good mate Lachlan Campbell also arrived today. It was great to see Lachie and I’m so grateful for all his support. As we approached Yaouk, Peter Cochran who runs Cochran Horse Treks met us on the road. He would be our host and would ride with me for the next few days. Peter was a Vietnam War veteran, used to work for ASIO as a detective and then went on to be a member of State Parliament. What a remarkable life! Instead of sleeping in the tent, Peter invited us to stay at his motel in Adaminaby, which was very generous of him. Mikey, Henry, Lachie and I had an opportunity to have a warm shower and a good feed with Peter at the local pub. Henry saddling up
Photo taken by the Monaro Post
Henry at the start of the Murrumbidgee River near Yaouk
Travelling through some properties outside Yaouk
Lachie receiving a donation from some locals
A quick interview on the side of the road with the Monaro Post
Horses getting a bit tired
Riding along the Murrumbidgee
One of the many river crossings
Da� Eigh� Yaouk to Providence Portal/Denison (45km)
Today’s ride was simply spectacular. Henry had to leave early, so Lachie drove him back to his car at Mt Clear. Mikey had organised for me to ride with Peter, as Peter knew a way off the trail that would save me four days and was much more scenic. Peter also kindly offered for me to ride his horse Rosie and to give the other horses a break at his place. Peter and I departed from his property in Yaouk. We rode up into the National Park. After riding through scrub and dense bush we �nally came out to the Nungar Plains. The plains were amazing – we saw a few black snakes, lots of wallabies, and a whole mob of Black Cockatoos. It was cold in the morning, but as we crossed the plains it cleared up to be quite a sunny day. We stopped off at a horse campsite for a cup of tea with some of the campers there, who were all very interested in the ride. We crossed the Murrumbidgee River which was quite deep in parts, and then we went without a trail straight through the bush. We were just bush-bashing along, trying not to hit our knees on the trees and keep the branches out of our faces. It was such an authentic bush experience, and it was great to have Peter there riding with me – sharing his worldly experience and stories about the bush, Vietnam and much more. We headed into Kosciusko National Park, and �nished the day at Providence Portal, where we set up camp for the horses, before heading back with Peter to his motel.
Peter riding past the Ghostly Gums
Peter leading the way to Providence Portal
Riding o the trail through dense bush to Providence Portal
Going Bush
New wattle along the trail
Lachie Campbell ready for the day | Peter Cochran and I before we head o from Yaouk | Lachie and I before we saddle up | Peter Cochran and I before we saddle up
Nungar Plains
Da� Nin� Providence Portal/Denison to Bradley's Hut (52km)
Today we had the tough challenge of covering more than 50km before nightfall. It was another fantastic day riding Rosie and being accompanied by Peter. The early start was tough – getting up at 5am to get the horses ready for the 7am departure – and it was so cold! We rode along the Eucumbene Lake, crossing the Eucumbene River and then heading up through the scrub to the top of Ash Ridge. Being at the top of the mountain was amazing - we were riding through the clouds, and at times, we could barely see a metre in front of us. It was really cold up there and it felt like my hands and feet were going to drop off, but it was a lot of fun riding through the snow – a true Man from Snowy River experience. We walked along the top of the ridge and then down to Happy Jack's River, where we stopped off for lunch at Happy Jack's camp. Happy Jack’s camp was an old gold settler's camp, which was later a camp for workers on the Snowy Mountain scheme, and it was great to hear a few stories from Peter about the past there. There were a lot of river crossings today, and with Peter's local knowledge, we rode through the bush most of the way, rather than following the track. The horses stood up to the test very well. We headed over to Junction Shaft and then up to Fifteen Mile Ridge. The sun had come out by then, and from the top we had a spectacular view across the valley over to Mt Kosciusko.
Looking out towards Mt Kosciusko.
Kosciusko National Park
Along the trail near Bradley & Obriens Hut
Riding through the mist at the top of Ash Ridge. My hands and feet feel like they are going to drop o from the cold
Ash Ridge
The last part of the day we had to ride through the bush down a very steep descent
We were all treated that night to a delicious roast lamb cooked by Lachie in the
to Bradley's Hut. Bradley's Hut is like an original settler's hut, and once we arrived,
bush oven, and then sat around the �re having a good chat before sleeping in the
we quickly set up a �re. Lachie and Mikey arrived not too long after we got there
hut.
with Turbo and a good friend of mine, James Male. All day Peter had been talking
about looking forward to a warm cuppa so when we arrived he was pretty angry
Looking at the weather report for the next day, I saw that they were expecting a
when the only tea we had was green tea. For half an hour we were ridiculed and
Max temp of -3! I knew that I would have to put on a few extra layers before braving
tormented by Peter, in a joking way, that we didn’t have “proper tea” but once the
that cold!
billy was boiled Peter ended up having a cup of green tea and to his pleasant surprise found it to be quite good.
Happy Jacks Dam
Riding through Kosciusko National Park
Snow at the top
Peter as we leave Providence Portal
Peter pointing out our end point for the day
James leading the way
Da� Te� Bradley's Hut to Jagumba (33km)
I woke that morning to �nd Peter sitting around the �re with a fresh cup
We followed them for a little while but pulled up once they headed back
of green tea. I think we had converted him. After breakfast we farewelled
into the scrub.
Peter Cochrane, who had been so helpful over the previous three days. Not only had he shared some great bush wisdom, but he also left his two
It was a very steep climb down to Jagumba - we were following the
horses with us so Lachie and James could ride with me.
power lines to keep our orientation. After a 33km ride, we arrived at
Jagumba where we were met by Barry Paton and 40 horses. The horses
Today was World Mental Health Day so we received a lot of support on
were all fairly excited to see us and keep galloping up and back around
our social media page and quite a bit of media attention even though we
us. Jagumba is an amazing property in a valley totally surrounded by the
were in the middle of Kosciusko National Park.
Kosciusko National Park.
James, Lachie and I left Bradley & O'Brien's Hut at 9am. While it was �ne
Barry won the Man from Snowy River Stockman's Challenge, and I was
weather, we came across a fair amount of snow on the side of the road.
keen to have a chat to him about all that was involved with that. He also
Once again, we saw some pretty spectacular scenery – we had a fantastic
shared some great stories about his experiences with natural
view over the Kosciusko National Park. There were a lot of trees blocking
horsemanship and horse training. He caught a Brumby stallion in the
the road, so we had to ride through the bush quite a few times
bush and taught him to do tricks like jumping onto the back of the ute!
throughout the day.
Mikey and I cooked up some pasta for the group for dinner, and, after a
A highlight of the day was when we came round a corner to �nd a
long day at the office, we all slept in Barry's lounge room. A fantastic day!
brumby foal. It was the �rst brumby I had seen on the ride so far, and was
It was Mental Health day as well, which was also important for our online
pretty exciting to see these brumbies in the wild. We got quite close,
fundraising.
before the mother and a few other brumbies came out of the bush and galloped down the road.
James and Lachie heading down to Jagumba | Kosciusko National Park | James in Kosciusko National Park | Lachie in Kosciusko National Park
James, Lachie and I outside Bradley & Obriens Hut
Da� Eleve� Jagumba to Khancoban (32km)
Today was a 32km ride from Jagumba to "The Dargalls", a property
take in the surroundings, as we tried to keep moving and outlast the
located outside the town of Khancoban.
downpour.
When Lachie, James and I left that morning, we were surrounded by a
The highlight of the day was when Mikey showed up in the Audi support
thick fog. From the very beginning of the day, I had a feeling that the
vehicle, bringing with him hot chocolate and cookies. We were all so wet
weather conditions were not going to be favourable.
and cold, but the warm drink and food were a great morale booster, and
just what we needed.
We crossed a river and then had a really long, steep �re trail to the top of
the range. Though it was a relief to make it to the top, it started raining
We �nally arrived at ‘The Dargalls’ outside Khancoban and were greeted
quite heavily up there, and we were drenched within minutes. Lachie,
by Joan Sinclair. We had been put in touch with Joan through Peter
James and I were all cold and wet but we just chatted away, which kept us
Cochrane (Joan is Peter's aunt). Joan was so kind to welcome us into her
pretty positive. After we got to the top we then followed the ridge line for
home, and immediately �xed us up with a cup of tea and some much
a while until we came out at the main road.
needed hot showers.
Instead of walking down the dangerous main road, we found a grassy
After sending James Male off back to Yerong Creek, Michael, Lachie and I
track parallel to the road that was under the power lines and unmapped.
joined Joan and her niece Jenny for dinner and drinks at the Khancoban
We followed this along in the rain, and unlike other days, it was difficult to
Hotel. Joan and Mikey got along like a house on �re.
Barry Paton, James and I at Jagumba
Lachie, James and I as we leave Jagumba
James and I at the top of the �re trail as we head towards Khancoban
Mikey with his new love Joan
With the sta and kids at Khancoban Primary School
Speaking to the kids at Khancoban Primary school
Da� Twelv� Rest Day in Khancoban
Today was my �rst rest day of the trip, but it was still a very busy day. After
I was amazed at the great potential of the students at Khancoban Public
staying the night at "The Dargalls" there were the usual jobs to do in the
School, and I am sure I will hear great stories of their achievements in the
morning, including checking over the horses and making a trip to nearby
future.
Corryrong (just over the Victorian border) to restock food and supplies for the next few days. A local farrier also came to �x up a shoe on one of the
That afternoon a good family friend, David Vaux, arrived in Khancoban.
horses, which was much appreciated.
We headed to the Alpine Inn for a fundraiser BBQ that evening, where I
had the chance to meet with some Khancoban locals who were very
That afternoon, I had a special appointment at the Khancoban Public
generous with their donations to the Black Dog Institute, and were very
School. Mum, Dad, as well as my beautiful girlfriend Pip Corcoran arrived
interested to hear about the ride. We then stopped by the Khancoban
in the morning and they joined me. I was honoured to sit on "the throne"
Country Club where, again, I was so grateful for the support of the people
and have a chat to the primary children, many of whom are keen horse
there, not only with their kind donations, but also sharing their
riders themselves. It was a great opportunity to have a chat about my
connections to the cause. All in all, it was a terri�c day, and I felt rested
experiences at the Olympics, as well as share some insight into the ride
and recharged to continue the next leg of the ride.
and the issue of depression.
Da� �irtee� Khancoban to Geehi (31km)
We left Joan's property early that morning to ride through Khancoban on our way to Geehi. Joined by my Dad, Khancoban local Troy Caldwell, David Vaux and Pip on foot, we headed off through the hills and into the town of Khancoban. Though a couple of locked gates slowed us down, when we arrived in town we were met by supportive locals who sent us off with lots of cheers and well wishes. We were very fortunate to have a clear, sunny morning (while on the same day, other parts of the state had snow and cold temperatures). We passed some beautiful countryside, with the paddocks looking very green and lush, and checked out some large pipes used for the Snowy Hydro. After saying goodbye to Dad and Mum at lunchtime, we were joined by Nat Howlett and her daughter, Hayley, and niece, Mae. They rode with us until the edge of the Kosciosko National Park, and shared some local knowledge along the way. David and I continued on, �nishing the long day's ride a little behind schedule – with a river to cross before reaching camp at the Geehi Rest Area. Pip, Lachie, David, Mickey and I enjoyed a great feast of camp�re roast lamb and vegies, with some roasted marshmallows for dessert. At Geehi, we stayed at the Doctor's Hut - a very impressive hut with hard timber �oors and a �replace to keep us warm overnight. Another great day spent in good company.
Joan and I at the Dargalls
Dad, David and I at a river crossing coming into Khancoban
Riding with Troy Caldwell, David and Dad | Riding out of Khancoban | Along the trail near Khancoban
Dad, David & I leaving the Dargalls
David and I out the fron of Tom Groggin station
Da� Fourtee � Doctor's Hut at Geehi to Tom Groggin Station (21.9km)
A bit before 9am that morning, David and I set off from Geehi on our ride
Without a doubt, Tom Groggin Station is the most spectacular station I
to Tom Groggin Station. It was a shorter ride than other days, with only
have ever seen – it is bordered by the Murray River and is such an
21.9km to cover. However, the whole ride was spent along the main road,
incredible location.
the Alpine Way, which slowed us down considerably. The ride was very dangerous with a lot of blind corners, so luckily we had Mikey there to
Later in the afternoon, we met up with Peter Cochrane to do a 'horse
escort us in the Audi support vehicle.
swap' – he was returning Archer and Flynn who had been resting up on his property, while we had been riding two of his trail horses. It was great
There is a proposed horse trail that runs parallel to the Alpine Way, which
to catch up with him again, albeit brie�y, and I greatly appreciated all the
Terry Snow, the owner of Canberra airport, has agreed to �nance;
assistance he had provided over that past week.
however the National Parks continue to oppose the plan, which I believe
is a great shame. Any riders who want to follow the Bicentennial National
We returned to Tom Groggin, with an additional member of our group –
Trail through this area are forced to put themselves and their horses at
my brother Tom. In addition, Lachie Campbell, who had started his
risk when they have to ride along this main road.
journey back to Tamworth this afternoon, had experienced some issues
with his car (the clutch broke), and so he re-joined us for a few extra days
Arriving at Tom Groggin Station just after lunch, David and I were met by
while it was repaired in nearby Corryong. Although I felt bad that Lachie’s
Wayne Turner, the manager. Tom Groggin Station was famously managed
car broke down, I was also quietly thrilled to have Lachie join us for a few
from 1880-1914 by Jack Reilly, “the Man from Snowy River”, about whom
more days.
the Banjo Patterson poem was written.
Lachie and I outside Doctors Hut, Geehi | No tent tonight! | David, Lachie, Mikey and I outside Doctors Hut
Da� ��ee� Getting ready to saddle up in the morning at Tom Groggin Station
Da� ��ee� Tom Groggin Station to Mt Hope (28.7km)
We woke up at 5am, and had a quick breakfast (my Nan's famous, delicious home-made muesli), then saddled the horses quickly, in time to meet with a reporter and cameraman from Channel 7 News Melbourne. They wanted footage of me crossing over the Murray River into Victoria. The river crossing was quite treacherous and, by the end of it, my boots were �lled with water. It was also very foggy and reminded me a lot of the �rst day of the trip. After an interview with Nick, the Channel 7 reporter, I was joined by my brother Tom, who rode Flynn, and we started the ride scheduled for the day. Tom and I rode up into the Alpine National Park, climbing the range from 570 metres to 14500 metres above sea level. The biggest problem we faced was that part of the Bicentennial National Trail was totally covered over, and there was no alternate track marked on the GPS. After a half hour considering our options, we decided to follow a side track, which fortunately connected us back with the National Bicentennial Trail. We set up camp on the side of a �re trail at a small clearing which has a creek running through it – an ideal camping spot for a night under the stars.
Ready to go for another day
Channel 7 news Melbourne doing a story about entering Victoria
Advice from Wayne Turner manager of Tom Groggin station about how to cross the Murray River
Crossing the Murray River
Riding to Mt Hope
Lachie cooking up a storm at our campsite on the side of the road at Mt. Hope | Radio Interview on the satellite phone | Smashing the Audi Window when the keys were locked in the car | Tom enjoying lunch with some makeshift chop sticks
Mikey navigating the Audi and �oat down to Limestone Creek | Lachie clearing the way to get the cars down to Limestone creek | A regular occurance along the track
Da� S�tee� Mt Hope to Limestone Creek (38km)
Today was a long day, with both huge highs and lows. Waking up early with a long ride of quite mountainous terrain ahead of me, I was eager to get the horses sorted and get on the track ASAP. Unfortunately, we had a delayed start, as Mickey accidently locked the keys in the Audi. This caused us a major issue as we didn’t have any phone reception (not even the satellite phone was working), so I decided to ride down the road until I got phone reception to call Audi. Audi has been so good to us giving us a car to use, and I felt terrible making the call, but they were very understanding and, considering our location, said that the best option was to break one of the windows. I then rode back and used an axe to break through the glass. Although it was a bad situation, Lachie, Tom, Mikey and I had quite a laugh breaking into the car, and we were de�nitely surprised with how strong the window was. Instead of leaving at 8.30am as planned, I ended up leaving Mt. Hope at 10.30am. I rode today with Flynn, cantering for most of the �rst hour, hoping to make up some of the lost time. I jumped over logs, rode through creeks, and ducked under branches as I took the "bush route" as often as I could. 11km into the ride, it started to rain. Usually, this wouldn't have been an issue for me, but as it was very hot when I had left this morning I had decided against taking my gloves, jumper or water-proof pants. Lesson learnt: the weather changes quickly in the mountains.
Freezing Cold. I spent a lot of time riding in the rain today and my whole body was freezing when i arrived
Da� S�tee� Con�. Mt Hope to Limestone Creek (38km)
So I was riding alone, with 27km to go, getting more and more drenched
were down he seemed to realise what needed to be done and he pushed
every minute. It was pretty cold, but I knew that the rain was not going to
through the bush without any guidance, and back around the tree and up
stop anytime soon. I came across some very steep hills, climbing up 500
onto the road.
metres at times, but I soon realised that it was the way down the hills that
was most challenging. The �re trails and bush tracks were very slippery
After three more hours riding in the rain, I started to feel worn down and
with the rain and, as a result, quite dangerous. As much as I had been
numb with cold. As I came closer to camp at Limestone Creek, I saw a
rushing all morning to make up time, I knew that I had to slow down and
mob of �fteen brumbies. Unlike most of the brumbies which would take
take it easy for the sake of Flynn and my own safety.
off as soon as they noticed me getting closer, they actually cantered up to
me. They were very curious. After stopping to watch them for a while, the
I rode past Connelly's Hut where the bush was very dense. There were
cold got the better of me, and I decided to keep going. The brumbies
quite a few mobs of brumbies which I passed. Some were curious
then started to follow me, which was incredible.
and stopped to watch me ride past, but most took off into the bush.
Though I had already seen a fair few brumbies along the ride so far, it was
I arrived in camp in the rain, shivering with my whole body numb. As
still such a thrill to see them.
soon as I arrived Tom took Flynn and I stripped down and got into some
warm clothes. It took me an hour next to the �re to start feeling warm
As I continued along a narrow �re trail, I was faced with a major problem.
again.
A huge tree had fallen across the track. While I had been jumping most of the logs I had come across, this tree was huge, with branches everywhere.
Limestone Creek was a remarkable place – the rock formations were
There was no alternative to ride around it; to my right was a cliff and to
absolutely spectacular, and I really wanted to stay a lot longer. That night,
my left was a sharp �ve metre drop. After some deliberation, my only
Lachie cooked up a feast and, because it was particularly wet on the
reasonable option was to backtrack. After backtracking for a few hundred
ground, the four of us – Tom, Mikey, Lachie and myself decided to sleep in
metres, I found a part where the drop was only about a metre into the
the horse �oat. It smelt like sweat and horse poo, but lying there, warm in
bush. Flynn was very reluctant to jump down the drop, but I pushed him
the �oat, was so good.
into it, as we had no other option. He landed beautifully, and once we
One of the many Brumbies I came across on the trail | Campsite at Limestone Creek | Checking out the Limestone Caves at Limestone Creek
Riding to Brumby Hill
Da� Seventee� Limestone Creek to Brumby Hill (27.8km)
Today’s ride was quite short, which was fortunate considering the eventful day I had the day before. I was joined again by Tom for the ride. We rode up along a �re trail through quite dense bush and we came across some brumby trap yards, which were pretty interesting to check out. We stopped off for lunch and had a delicious rice dish, so we thought it only appropriate to use “makeshift chopsticks” for an authentic bush dining experience. As we arrived at the top of the ridge we were met by Mikey and Lachie, who were blocked by another locked gate along the BNT. After speaking with the ranger on the phone who explained that he couldn’t open the gate, we decided to move a few logs and go bush to get around. It was an early arrival at tonight’s campsite today, but it took us a while to �nd the clearing where we were going to set up camp, as it was tucked away down a small track in the bush. As Mikey and Lachie were approaching the clearing, they saw a huge black brumby stallion. We set up the portable yards and Mikey showed off his wood chopping skills (copping a fair amount of heckling from the rest of us). We then built a big �re and Tom cooked up a feast for dinner. All four of us slept in a two-man tent, which was very cosy, as there wasn’t enough dry space in the campsite to put up the other tent. During the night we awoke many times to the snort of brumbies that had come into the campsite. I had to run out quite a few times as I was concerned that they would run through the portable yards and take away our horses.
Tom riding to Brumby Hill
A set of Brumby trap yards near Brumby Hill | Brumby Hill campsite | Family Support- Paul, Therese, Mum, Mon, Nan, Pip & Vince | Mikey and Lachie waiting at the locked gate before Brumby Hill | Following the arrow
Da� Eightee� Brumby Hill to Bindi Station (28.8km)
Mikey had been speaking with many locals about the route for today. John Stubbs, the BNT manager for the area, had advised that the route we were to take hadn’t been used in years and was completely overgrown with blackberry bushes and fallen trees, and the descent was incredibly steep and dangerous. The only alternative route would take an additional three days, which we didn’t have time for. Following the advice of John, I decided that it wasn’t worth risking the horses so I decided to walk the day and �oat the horses down to Bindi Station with Mikey. Lachie and Tom agreed to join me for the day, and together the three of us walked through the bush, crawled under logs and walked sideways down the perilous track. John Stubbs was right – the track was a death trap. We stopped at Hell's Gate for lunch, and then crossed a freezing river. Once we got to the other side of the river we had to walk another 5-6 kilometres, with an ascent of over one kilometre. The sight of Bindi Station from the top was spectacular. We then walked back along the trail until we reached Bindi station. That night, Mum arrived for dinner and we spent the night camping in a paddock on the Station.
Tom and Lachie at Bindi Station
Climbing under one of the many fallen trees along the trail
Lachie and I along the track
Lachie and I before we descend Hells Gate
Tom and I before we decend Hells Gate
Walking along the overgrown track | They don't call it Hells Gate for nothing | Lunch time
Lachie crossing the freezing River at Hells Gate
Lachie, Tom, Mikey and I at Bindi Station
Bindi Station Camping Area
Tom and I at Bindi Station
Sunrise at Bindi Station
Da� Ninetee� Bindi Station to Omeo (30km)
This morning we all awoke to an amazing pink sky. Tom and Lachie
the ute for a while. I climbed under the ute and found that a huge
headed back to Sydney early and I was quite sad to see them go home as
amount of cyclone wire had been wrapped around the axle. I pulled out
we had shared a fantastic few days together. Mikey also left early, as it
my leatherman, and cut out each individual wire. It took about 20
appeared that a wheel rod from the Audi had broken and he needed to
minutes, but we �nally removed all the wire. After I had �nished, we
have it checked over.
stopped to talk with this farmer who introduced himself as Peter. He said that we were the �rst riders that he had seen in over a year to ride that
Mum and I were given a tour of Bindi Station by the owner, Fraser. He
part of the trail, and that it must have been a miracle that we came along
showed us all the old buildings on the Station – one of the buildings was
to help him. He was very appreciative for the help, and said he would
built before Melbourne was settled!
catch up with us in Omeo tomorrow during my rest day. Though we
arrived in camp later than we had planned, I was happy to be able to
We started today's ride at mid-morning – �rst riding to the back of Bindi
assist Peter. I know how much I appreciate the assistance I have been
Station, and then up into the State Forest. We ascended over 800m in the
given over the duration of my ride so far, and it is nice to be able to �nally
morning so it was pretty slow going at the beginning. It was good to have
help someone else along the trail.
Mum ride with me today, and catch up with everything that was going on
back at home. We had lunch on the side of the �re trail, and then
Arriving in Omeo, we saw quite a few emus, which was a pretty amazing
continued our ride down to Omeo.
sight. They are such fascinating animals to watch, with such bizarre
mannerisms. We stayed at the Omeo Caravan Park, and headed to the
The highlight of the day was a special encounter with a local farmer. We
local pub for dinner.
were riding out of the National Park along the National Horse Trail
towards Omeo when, all of a sudden, I noticed a ute parked up ahead,
I was looking forward to a rest day the next day. I needed a bit of a rest
with an elderly man fussing around underneath. I stopped to ask if he was
after a tough week, and it would be good to plan the week ahead. I was
okay, and he said that he had wire caught around his axle, but his
over half-way, but I knew there was still some tough terrain to cross
eyesight was too poor to see the wire well enough to cut it. I noticed that
before I reached Healesville.
he had a lot of scratches on his arms and he had obviously been under
Mum & I as we leave Bindi Station
Original Bindi Station Homestead
Bindi Station
Mum riding to Omeo
Along the trail outside Omeo
At the Old Omeo Jail
Da� Twent� Rest Day at Omeo
Even though today was a "rest day", there was still a lot to be done – organising a BBQ in Omeo, and planning for the ride ahead. In the morning, we headed to the old Courthouse, where we set up for the Omeo Black Dog BBQ. Jeff Cooper, from the Omeo Lions Club, was a great help in assisting us with this event. Once this was sorted, I headed back to the Rodeo Grounds to check on the horses and make sure everything was in order there. Mikey had �oated down Archer so I saddled him up for the �rst time since his injury. I rode him for 10-15 minutes and he seemed absolutely �ne, so then I rode him down the main street of Omeo to the BBQ. It was great to meet a lot of friendly locals, and share with them some stories from my ride so far. We checked out the old gaol next to the courthouse, which had been used up until 1983. At the BBQ, I met Gavin, the local policeman, who gave us a lot of encouragement. It really hit home speaking to him about how widespread and devastating mental illness was in rural areas.
He told us that in the Omeo and Swifts Creek district, which has a total population of just 1,200 people, there had been two suicides and six attempted suicides in the past 12 months. These tragedies all came as a result of mental illness, and it really hit home how important it is to encourage people to seek help, not just for their own sake and safety, but also for the bene�t of their friends and family. The second half of the day was spent planning the ride ahead. After the BBQ, I met with John Stubbs, the local manager of the Bicentennial National Trail. He shared some valuable knowledge of the terrain that I will face over the next week, and with limited phone reception and meeting points with the support vehicle, I know I will need as much help as I can get! I had a nice dinner with Mum and Mikey at the pub, enjoying my last few hours of rest, before I recommenced the ride the following day. The next rest day would be on Melbourne Cup Day at the end of my ride!
Mum and I with the Lions Club members at the fundraiser in Omeo
Outside the Omeo Court House
Da� Twent� On� Omeo to Dog's Grave (42km)
While we had originally planned to stop at Livingstone Creek this evening, I had a chat to some of the locals who recommended that we should take the main road (Cassilis Road) out of Omeo, rather than taking the trail. The road leading out of Omeo was sealed for the �rst ten kilometres, then we got back on to the �re trail. This was a signi�cant shortcut, and allowed me to �t two days’ worth of riding into one. I was joined by Kelly Parker, who lived in Omeo and had a few brumbies. Kelly shared some great stories with me along the way, and while it was a long day, we managed to arrive at Dogs' Grave by mid-afternoon. We didn't have the support vehicle meeting us that night, so we set up camp and ate a meal out of a can – de�nitely not as appetising as Lachie's camp�re roasts, but still, when you are hungry, anything will do. While we were eating, we could hear the wild dogs close by. At 9pm, it started to snow. While this wasn’t the �rst time it had been snowing on the trip, I was a bit worried as this was the �rst night we didn’t have rugs for the horses. I headed out to check on Flynn and noticed he was shaking a lot. I put a saddle blanket on him, and tied a dryzabone around to keep warm. It continued to snow throughout the night, so we found some wood and built a �re and let the horses come in close to keep warm.
Flynn (Archer 2) trying to get warm after the snow
Dogs Grave
Flynn and I at Dogs Grave
Dogs Grave campsite in the morning
Flynn and I at Dogs Grave
Da� Twent� Tw� Dog's Grave to Treasure's Hut (30km)
After a brutal night in the snow, Kelly and I woke up around 6am, and we were keen to get on our way. As we left the camp, the snow started to get heavier, and for the �rst �ve kilometres of the ride, snow was falling all around us. If only it wasn't so cold, I'm sure I would have appreciated the experience more! After a few hours ride along the trail, we began a very steep descent down into the valley and across the river and then into a very remote camping area. The camping area had plenty of long grass, which the horses thoroughly enjoyed. We came across a very secluded property that was bordered on three sides by the river. I found it interesting on my trip that I had come across so many secluded properties and camping areas. We then faced a huge climb with 1000m elevation over about 5km, which took a considerable toll on the horses. We tried to make it all the way to Talbotville, but the climb was so difficult that we were forced to �nish the day's ride at Treasure's Hut. The hut was absolutely �lthy, littered with rubbish from previous tenants, but at least it provided a roof over our heads. We were out of supplies, so we had to wait until Mikey arrived with the support vehicle at 9.30pm before we could have dinner. We were so hungry by then, and enjoyed every bite!
Snow as we leave Dogs Grave
Snowing as we leave in the morning
One of the steep descents towards Treasures Hut
Leaving Treasures Hut
Da� Twent� �re� Treasure's Hut to Talbotville (32.7km)
Mikey drove Kelly and her horse back early this morning, and left me with
I was very surprised to see some of the old fruit trees and rose gardens
Archer and Flynn. Due to complications with the car that had
that had continued to survive since these early settlement days.
arisen earlier on during the trip, Mike had to head back to Canberra to get it serviced. This meant that I would have no vehicle support for the �rst
This afternoon, I met up with Pip Coates, a good friend of mine, who will
time on the ride, and I had no idea when Mikey would return.
be joining me on the ride for the next two days. I was also able to have a quick wash in the river – despite the water being absolutely freezing, it
Heading off by myself, I rode Archer and led Flynn all the way to
was good to get clean. Talbotville had really long green grass so I let the
Talbotville. On the way, I stopped off for lunch at Grant, an old gold
horses loose to eat as much as they wanted.
settlement. After lunch, I went down the ridge line towards Talbotville, and arrived by the afternoon. Talbotville was another of Gippsland's small gold mining towns that sprang to life when gold was found in the Crooked River in 1860, but vanished when the gold ran out.
Pip and I used her car to transport wood and build a big �re for the night.
Da� Twent� Four Talbotville to Wonnangatta (34km)
Pip and I packed up our gear early in the morning, and set off the across
To scope the rest of the track, I went ahead without the horses. After
the river. Although we had another huge climb planned today we only
discovering that the route held much of the same, I returned to Pip and
had to cover 26km so I thought we’d get into camp fairly early. Following
we headed back for our original campsite. I was so impressed with how
the GPS, we headed up a hill, however, after reaching the top, the
the horses reacted in this particularly difficult situation. They were
GPS instructed us to walk straight down a cliff face where there was no
jumping logs from stationary positions, and I was amazed by how they
road, and the area was completely overgrown. It was pretty clear that the
remained so quiet and calm throughout the whole ordeal.
GPS had reached its limits in terms of helpfulness, and I started feeling uncertain about the ride ahead. If the GPS couldn't provide us with a clear
After 5 hours searching for the track and getting stuck we �nally made it
route, and without a local guide, we could be stranded.
back to Talbotville. We had lunch and a break at Talbotville which gave me time to reassess our options. After looking closely at the map our only
We decided to back track a couple of kilometres, and rediscovered old
option was to take Pioneer Racecourse track. It turned out to be an
signs for the Bicentennial National Trail, which took us down a walking
incredibly scenic path, even though it meant an extra four kilometres
track. Our worries disappeared (brie�y), as we assumed that must have
added to the ride.
been the path the GPS wanted us to take.
Once we got back on track, the next problem we faced was we had to �t a
We headed along the track, however it steadily became worse and worse.
whole day’s ride into an afternoon. What’s more, the terrain was
Without warning, we found ourselves on narrow track with no ledge, and
extremely hilly and testing for the horses. We had to climb 880 metres
a massive drop on the other side – in addition to the overgrown and
and follow a ridgeline. Even if we’d wanted to, there was nowhere to
slippery terrain. These conditions kept up for nearly three kilometres.
camp. We had gotten ourselves in the unfavourable situation where we
Then our situation was compounded by unrelenting blackberry thorn
had to make up time with unforgiving terrain.
bushes, making our route virtually impassable.
Steep descent riding down to Wonnangatta River
Da� Twent� Four Con�. Talbotville to Wonnangatta (34km)
At 6pm we still had 6.5km to go, with a very steep climb down to the river. I was really concerned we would have to do this walk in the dark, so I made a quick decision to take a shortcut that was 3.5km to get us down to the river ASAP so we could set up camp. The road we took was Herney Spur Track, one of the most treacherous �re trails in the Alpine National Park. It became a race against time, but we couldn’t rush as the path was so steep and any slip could be fatal. The sun was right in front of us and we watched it set as we made our way slowly down the track. I couldn’t help but think about the vet in Canberra who told us that Archer had a terrible injury and would not be able to be ridden for months. If only she could have seen him take on this hill less than three weeks later. As soon as we got to the bottom it became completely dark so we went straight into a very basic clearing. For dinner, we had to share a can of Campbell’s “Chunky Soup” between us and we were out of water, so we had to drink from the creek. What was worse though was that we had no hard feed with us, so the horses were left with grass for the night. It was great having Pip with me as she stayed so positive through this whole ordeal.
Archer and I along the trail
At the top of the ridge before we come down to Wonnangatta River
Woonangatta Station
Da� Twent� �v� Wonnangatta River to Wonnangatta Station (30km)
After a difficult day yesterday, we decided to get on our way early in case we encountered more problems ahead. We knew these few days were going to be difficult as all the gates to the National Park were closed due to the winter season, so even if the support vehicle was available, there would be no way that Mikey could get in. The start of the ride was absolutely spectacular as we rode through the valley. We followed the �re trail along and made seven river crossings over the Wonnangatta River as it traversed along the valley. Around lunch time, we arrived at Wonnangatta Station and stopped for a bite to eat. Wonnangatta Station was established as a cattle station in 1867 and had a few owners in its time, before becoming incorporated into the Alpine National Park in 1988. Not only is the Wonnangatta Station valley one of Victoria's most remote and beautiful locations, it also has its very own murder mystery. In 1917, the Manager of Wonnangatta Station, James Barclay, was found dead and the prime suspect was the cook, but he was nowhere to be found. Then, he too was found dead the following Spring when the snow in the area melted and revealed his body. To this day, the murder remains unsolved. We stopped for lunch at the old station site and found the graves of people who had lived and died there. There was a small hut next to the creek that must have been used by hunters. We found a pack of barley sugars that someone had left behind, which was a bit of a morale booster, since we were running low on food.
Woonangatta Station
Woonangatta Station
Da� Twent� �v� Con�. Wonnangatta River to Wonnangatta Station (30km)
After lunch we took off through the open valley of Woonangatta Station and headed up to Howitt Hut. We followed the main �re trail for three kilometres until the GPS showed us to take an alternative �re trail through the bush. We followed this trail for four kilometres until the track became more and more narrow. We pushed ahead until we found ourselves at the bottom of a steep hill surrounded by thorny blackberry bushes and dense forest. Determined Pip and I pushed on until it became too overgrown to get the horses through. By late afternoon it became clear that we weren’t going to make it to Howitt Hut. We looked on the map and the only alternative route was to backtrack to the main trail and then take that up to Howitt Hut, which was another 20 kilometres or more. We were both emotionally and physically exhausted from all the problems we had encountered over the past 48 hours, and now we were faced with another signi�cant challenge and needed a quick change of plans. We didn’t have any food left, as we were expecting to meet Mikey for dinner at Howitt Hut, so our priority was now to �nd food, water and shelter. We decided that the best thing to do was to ride the seven kilometres back to Woonangatta Station, where there was a hut we could sleep in, and a creek nearby for water. Plus, there was plenty of grass for the horses. We arrived back at Woonangatta Station as it turned dark and all of us, including the horses, were completely spent. We set up a �re and luckily found a can of food in the hut left by the hunters, which we cooked up for dinner. That night was pretty tough as both Pip and I were so exhausted and quite concerned. We didn’t have a yard for the horses so we had to tie them up rather than allowing them to eat. Twice during the night Pip heard the horses get free and had to go outside the hut to tie them up. We slept on wooden boards but that didn’t stop me having a very deep sleep. Giving the horses a scratch at the end of a very long day
Pip Coates not happy!
Woonangatta hut
Trying to stay positive about a �at tyre at Howitt Hut
Da� Twent� S� Wonnangatta Station to Howitt Hut (23km)
I felt completely physically and emotionally shattered when I woke up,
We were so glad to �nally see some kind of civilisation again, and our
but we had no option except to push on. We were in quite a desperate
stomachs were glad to get a proper meal, as we hadn’t eaten properly in
situation, and I could tell Pip was having some regrets joining me. She is
days.
normally one of the most cheerful people I know, but that morning she was absolutely silent.
We then followed Mikey to Howitt Hut, which was an iconic mountain hut that had been used by the owners of Wonnangatta Station in the summer
We didn’t have any breakfast, as we were totally out of food and there
months, so that the cattle could graze in the high country.
was nothing left in the hut, so we just had to press on. We again rode the
Once we arrived at Howitt Hut we put the horses in a big holding
trail that we had followed the day before, but instead of taking the turn
paddock at the back of the hut so they could get a feed and some rest. We
into the bush as shown by the GPS, we stayed on the �re trail up the ridge
didn’t have much time to relax, as Pip needed to get back to Sydney for
line.
her cousins birthday party. Both of us were absolutely starving as we hadn’t had much food in the past few days so we had a big meal and then
After 1160m of elevation and 3.5 hours of riding we �nally got to the top
got in the Audi to drive back to Talbotville. Mickey stayed behind to keep
of the ridge line, where we were greeted by a spectacular view across the
any eye on the horses and to get some rest as he had also been doing
valley. We had spoken to Mikey the night before and he had promised
some big miles in the car. The park gates were still locked, but fortunately
that he would meet us at the gate at the top, however when we got there,
we had the ranger’s key to allow us to get in and out. The road was
he was nowhere to be found, so we pressed on looking for Howitt Hut.
littered with fallen trees that had not yet been removed from the snow
We were surprised at how �erce and cold the wind was at the top, and it
season, so we had to take it quite slow getting out. Although the trip from
was difficult to hear each other. The hut wasn’t on any maps so we rode
Howitt Hut to Talbotville was only about 60km through the National Park
around for over an hour looking for it, before Mikey showed up in the
along the main roads, it took Pip and I six hours to drive.
Audi.
Da� Twent� Seve� Rest at Howitt Hut
Instead of a rest day, I had to get up and drive six hours back from
liability again.
Talbotville. Despite the long journey, it was a good opportunity to get some supplies for the next few days – I certainly didn’t want to be caught
Like so many times this trip when I was faced with a problem, the idea of
in the same situation again with no food or water!
giving up didn’t even enter into my thoughts. It was always, what do I have to do now? What are the next steps? Just keep moving! At many
The drive getting back into the National Park was just as bad as getting
times when I was really struggling throughout the trip, I thought about
out, as I tried to navigate over fallen trees. When I got out of the car at
Mum and what she had to put up with her struggle with depression –
Howitt Hut, I found that one of the wheels had started de�ating. When I
after all, the trip was to raise money for the BlackDog Institute to help
went to change the tyre, we discovered that the Audi has a special nut
people just like her. This thought gave me tremendous con�dence and
piece that stops people from stealing the wheels. However, for us the car
helped to put things in perspective. If Mum can get through that, then I
was missing that vital piece required for us to change the tyre. Due to the
can get out of here!
unique nature of the wheel nut, the only way we were able to change the wheel was to go to Melbourne and pick up the special nut key from the
Mikey and I stayed the night in Howitt Hut and considered our options. At
Audi dealer.
night, we could hear wild dogs outside the hut, which was a bit frightening, but we had made the door very secure.
We were now in trouble again! The horses were tired and had developed some severe saddle sores, I was exhausted and now the car had become a
Howitt hut
Howitt High Plains
Da� Twent� Eigh� Howitt Hut to McAllister River (40.3km)
After some deliberation, Mikey was adamant that he wanted to join me on the ride rather than waiting at Howitt Hut for a rescue team. Therefore, we agreed to put together the absolute minimum supplies for two days, as we saddled up the horses. The horses were very tired, so I decided to walk on foot to ensure I stayed off the horses backs as long as possible. Mikey packed a rucksack with gear and he walked beside me as I led the horses. The trail today was a 1300m descent over 25km off the ridge line and back down into the valley. The trail we took was very narrow, but it was the shortest option to get down. By the end of the �rst hour, Mikey was struggling a bit with his pack and wanted to ride one of the horses. Mikey had never ridden a horse before this trip, so I knew we’d have to take it easy. As Mikey got on the horse, I picked up his pack and it felt heavy, like a pack full of bricks. Mikey was adamant that everything in the pack was essential, so I didn’t question it. As Mikey rode one of the horses, I carried the rucksack and then we swapped over again every hour. The countryside was amazing, but with a heavy pack and exhaustion setting in, I was just looking forward to bed. Due to our circumstances, this was the �rst day I didn’t trot the horses at all, therefore a normal 5-6 hour day took nine hours. We �nally got into camp which was next to McAllister River in a small clearing, and I opened up Mikey’s rucksack to �nd a folder, a cooker, a battery charger pack and all these other completely unnecessary items. I was very angry at Mikey, as we had spent all day carrying this heavy pack for no reason. I looked on the map to see that tomorrow was going to be an even longer day, and with the thought of having to carry the pack again, I took out most of the items and left them in the campsite. With the bag repacked with just the necessities, I decided to also take the battery pack, which was too expensive to leave behind.
About to begin our descent along the Caledonia River track
Howitt High Plains in Victorian Alps National Park
McAllister River Camping Area
Da� Twent� Nin� McAllister River to Rump Saddle (32km)
Today was another extremely challenging day. Mikey and I, plus the two
just come through the bush and across some really tough terrain when
horses, were all incredibly tired, but we had to push through it. We had
�nally we came out on a �re trail. We were all in a pretty bad way, as we
been unable to give the horses any hard feed the night before, so we
hadn’t had much to eat and were mentally and physically shattered. I was
decided just to walk, rather than ride. We left just after dawn, as we knew
unable to contact Dad or Beck so I decided to ride on ahead to try to �nd
it would be a long day, and by the time we were �nished, we had spent 12
them before it got dark. Then, after riding down the trail, I spotted them
hours walking had climbed over 1200m and covered over 30km of hilly
on the side of the road. As soon as I spotted them, I was so happy and
terrain.
relieved, as I knew we had made it through and we’d get there. Dad and Beck had hired a four wheel drive ute in Melbourne and had brought
It became a major test of will to continually keep Mikey motivated, and
along a whole lot of food for us.
keep pushing on. Although it was tough, we still had some great moments – most particularly, was when we were walking along with no
That evening, we had a really nice �re and I had a great sleep in the back
leads on the horses.
of the hire ute.
The best part of today was coming down towards Rumpf Saddle. We had
Da� �irt� Rump Saddle to Knockwood Reserve (37.3km)
Beck joined me on Flynn today, heading straight up Lazarini Spur in the morning. From being pretty low yesterday, my mood had now changed, as I was really happy to have Beck join me. Before the ride began I had hoped that Beck would get an opportunity to ride with me, but she had been quite busy before today, so it �nally good to get a chance to ride with her. Once we got to the top of Lazarini Spur, which was quite a steep climb, we enjoyed the breathtaking views out over the Victorian Alps while the horses enjoyed the rest. As we carried on along the top, we enjoyed the odd canter through the shady forest �re trails. Then we hit the descent and, as usual, it was too steep to ride down, so we walked alongside the horses using a good load of apples and carrots that Beck had brought along, to keep up horse morale. The �nal leg into camp was beautiful – winding our way along the river. Meanwhile, Dad and Mikey were up at the car trying to sort out the tyre problems with no luck - despite Dad having picked up the special nut to change the tyre from his trip to Melbourne. They drove into Knockwood after dark, and much more exhausted than us. Luckily, when Beck and I arrived at camp, a fantastic couple, Nell and Terry, sorted us out with food, drink and good company while we waited. They also made a generous donation to the Black Dog. Their generous donation and kind assistance was a great pick-me-up in a difficult stage of the journey.
Sleeping in the back of the hire ute with the emergency blanket
Beck along the trail near Kncokwood Reserve
Knockwood Reserve Camping Area
Beck getting a drink from the River near Knockwood Reserve
Da� �irt� On� Knockwood Reserve to Catford Big River Camp Area (37.2km)
I set off on my own with the two horses, while Mikey, Dad and Beck
made my way up the �re trail. The elevation was about 800m, so we took
headed to Audi in Melbourne to pick up a special wheel nut kit to change
plenty of breaks on the way up. Both horses were happy to follow me
the �at tyre. The plan was to pick up the kit, drop off Dad and Beck in
along the trail without leads which showed the special bond we had
Melbourne, pick up Mitch and Tom Gillespie at the airport and then drive
formed over the last few weeks.
back to join me at Catford Big River Camp Area. As I was expecting to see Mikey, Mitch and Tom later that night, I decided to leave the tent behind.
At mid-afternoon, as I was making my way down the �re trail, I spoke to
The horses were both developing quite severe saddle sores and had lost a
Mitch on the phone. Tom and Mitch had just been picked up by Mikey at
lot of condition, so I tried to travel as light as possible. Over the last few
the airport and had decided that instead of meeting me tonight, they
days I had been walking on foot rather than riding, and I decided to do
would drive for six hours back up to Howitt’s Hut to pick up the car, and
the same today. I was amazed at how well the horses had done – they
then drive back to meet me in the morning. This meant that I’d be on my
were such troopers, and I knew that I was going to miss them when we
own tonight with the two horses. I was concerned that this meant that
�nished.
the horses wouldn’t get any hard feed tonight, particularly as their condition was deteriorating, I also wouldn’t have a tent to sleep in, and
The route was very tough again. I started at Knockwood, and then slowly
would have to �nd a suitable campsite along the river.
Da� �irt� On� Con�. Knockwood Reserve to Catford Big River Camp Area (37.2km)
As I rode down towards Big River, I started to see the huge trees and dense forest that the Yarra Ranges National Park is so famous for. I rode Flynn for the last few kilometres of the day, as we had quite a few river crossings following the Big River towards Marysville. In the late afternoon, I �nally came across a suitable campsite. It was very small, and was right next to the River. I let the horses eat what grass they could �nd, as I collected wood for the �re. I knew I would need a lot of wood to keep myself warm for the whole night. Once the sun went down, I tied up the horses and made myself a �re. I was still a bit concerned about wild dogs, so I made my bed between the horses and the �re. I had a can of chunky soup for dinner, which I cooked on the �re and then I went to sleep quite early. However, within a few hours, it started to rain so I had to pull out the emergency blanket to try to keep warm. The rain lasted most of the night, and I probably only got one hour sleep. I tried to keep the �re going but the rain was too heavy, so I ended up in a ball next to the horses with an emergency blanket on. I was soaked to the bone and absolutely freezing. I had no reception on my mobile phone and the satellite phone was out of battery, so it was all up to me to get myself out of there. That was one of the longest nights in my life, but through it all I kept thinking of the fantastic journey I’d had so far, the amazing people I’d met and the impact that this ride was having. I also thought about what Mum had been through and I kept telling myself over and over again that no matter what happened, I was going to make it to Healesville.
Archer following me along the trail
Da� �irt� Tw� Catford Big River Camp Area to Athols Abbey (18km)
Last night was incredibly tough, both mentally and physically. I was
their breakfast of Mitavite mix. We then stopped by the side of the road
absolutely freezing and wet, I was on my own and I didn’t have much to
for some breakfast for ourselves. Mikey, Mitch and Tom had driven all
eat. I didn’t wait for the sun to rise before I headed off, as I was too cold
night up to Howitt Hut, and now Mikey was on his way back to
and needed to keep moving. I was also concerned that the support group
Melbourne to drop off the wheel nut kit. The three of them had been
wouldn’t know which campsite I was in, so staying on the main �re trail
awake for over 28 hours, and had done an incredible job to get us back
was the best option for when they did �nally arrive.
on track.
It was probably about 4am when I left the campsite. I had to get the
Due to the fact I had started so early that morning, and we only had a
horses up a very wet and slippery hill along the river before we reached
short trip to cover that day, Mitch walked along with me as Tom drove
the �re trail again. None of us had anything to eat that morning, and as I
the ute. We arrived at Athols Abbey around 10am, which was great, as it
walked along the trail, I just hoped that Mitch and Tom would �nd us. At
gave us a nice chance to relax and make a big �re. Mikey showed up
about 8.30am, Tom and Mitch arrived in Dad’s hire ute. I was so happy to
mid-afternoon, and it was good to see that he was still alive. The logistics
see them and they were so happy to see me, as they thought I could be in
behind this ride had been complex, with lots of mishaps along the way.
trouble after they couldn’t get in with contact me. The �rst thing I did
Mikey had covered over13000 kms as my support driver, which was an
when they arrived was borrow some dry clothes from Tom, as all my
awesome effort, so it was good to see his spirits were still high.
clothes were completely soaked from the rain. I then gave the horses
Da� �irt� �re� Athols Abbey to Marysville (7km)
Today I had a very short ride in the morning to Marysville. I had ridden
Once we arrived in Marysville, we gave the horses a big feed and then left
along this �re trail before on a practice ride with Verity, so I was quite
them at the holding paddocks next to the footy oval. We then set off for
familiar with the road. I rode from Athols Abbey and reached Marysville in
the Black Spur Hotel in Narbethong for a long awaited shower.
less than an hour and a half. The most confronting thing about this ride was seeing the impact of the Victorian Bush�res on the area. Everywhere I
Mikey, Tom, Mitch and I had a few drinks and dinner at the Black Spur
looked the trees were black. During the bush�res, the whole town of
while we worked through the plans for the Charity walk on the �nal day.
Marysville was destroyed and everyone had to camp on the football oval. I was very privileged to be able to ride through here.
Mitch feeding the horses in Marysville
Da� �irt� Four Marysville to The Black Spur Inn, Narberthong (17km)
There were a lot of friends arriving around lunchtime in preparation for the �nal walk the next day, so Mikey dropped me off in Marysville around 8.30am for a short ride on Archer to the hotel at Narbethong. Flynn was lucky to get the day off and only had a short ride in the �oat to the hotel. Before I left Marysville, I stopped off at the bakery for a coffee, and left Archer tied up out the front, which de�nitely got a few looks from the locals. I had ridden this route before, so I didn’t bother taking a map. Archer didn’t seem to need a map either as he took all the right turns on the way. It is well known that horses have an amazing memory, but what was amazing for me, was watching Archer’s reaction when we came to an old campsite that we had stayed at during our preparation for the ride. To get to this campsite, you needed to take another road off the main trail. As we came up to this road I dropped the reins and closed my eyes to see what would happen. When I opened my eyes, Archer had gone off the trail down this side track to the old campsite. I found it absolutely amazing that after �ve weeks, and over 1000km travelled, that Archer recognised this path along the trail and assumed that we were camping here again. Just before I arrived at the Black Spur, John Kasch met me along the trail in his ute. It was great to see John, who had helped me so much with my preparation. Catching up with John this time was very different. He had been my teacher and had given me so much advice, and now I had travelled further than he ever had on the BNT. It was great to share my stories with John, who was very interested to hear about my journey.
Da� �irt� Four Con�. Marysville to The Black Spur Inn, Narberthong (17km)
When I arrived at the Black Spur Hotel, I was met by many of my friends
came down from Sydney and surprised us with a new rendition of The
and family who had �own down from Sydney to join the walk on the �nal
Man From Snowy River - telling the tale of the Archer journey.
day. Mum, Dad and my brother Tom had arrived. It was great to see all of them as they had all put in so much work to make this a success. Tom had
Also at the dinner was our major sponsor Peter Wiggs from Archer Capital,
also made about 80 T-shirts with the ‘Following the Legend of Archer’
with his wife Electra and son Liam. Without the contribution of Archer
logo, using a printing machine we had bought. Sarah-Jane and David
Capital, this ride would not have been possible so it was great that he
Vaux ,who had provided a lot of �nancial support, arrived ready for
could join us. We also had my fencing coach Scott Arnold and his wife
tomorrow’s walk. Beck and Verity were there, as was Debbie Reid, a good
Julie, who live in Melbourne, drive up for the night, as well as Geoff
family friend, Tom Gillespie’s mum Nicole and my college friend, Sophie
Morrison who had lent us the horses for this fantastic ride.
Joseph. We decided to go back to Marysville for lunch at the café and then head to Steavenson Falls to have a look around.
The dinner was a great opportunity to share some of the stories from the trip and say thank you to the sponsors and supporters. I couldn’t believe
The dinner at the Black Spur Inn that night was absolutely fantastic.
that it there was only one day to go before I would �nish the ride and say
Dianne and her team at the hotel dished up a fantastic meal to our team
goodbye to the horses.
of helpers and supporters. Peter Joseph, Chair of the Black Dog Institute,
The support team at Steavenson Falls in Marysville
Da� �irt� �v� The Final Day - Narbethong to Healesville (38.2km)
John Kasch arrived in the early morning on his horse to get us moving on
who joined the ride, along with 20 more walkers including Helen
the �nal day. We had quite a band of riders and walkers. David and Sarah
Christensen, the director of the Black Dog Institute, and the Wiggs
Jane Vaux and my brother Tom decided that they’d do the whole 38.2
family. Young Liam Wiggs was getting pretty tired on the route, so we
kms on foot. Judy Johnston, a local from Narbethong who survived the
hoisted him up on Archer. Apparently, he had been pretty scared of
�res with her husband Bill, generously added a horse to the ranks, letting
horses, but he was more than accustomed to riding by the time the day
us use her stocky grey quarter horse, Roadie. Her horses, JJ and Roadie,
was through!
had survived the �res in 2009. As Judy and Bill sheltered in their farm house with the �re storm rolling over them, they didn’t think their horses
We �nally reached the end of the National Bicentennial Trail, where I was
could have survived. But when the orange glow disappeared and the
surprised to meet another ten riders from the local Healesville Pony Club,
smoke had cleared, they found all horses safe, standing in the dam, led
who had come to show their support and ride the last �ve kilometres to
there by the oldest of their horses. So what a privilege to be riding with
the historic Healesville railway station. Graham Taylor from the Lions Club
Judy and her horses – Beck and Mum shared the ride on Roadie.
had put the word out, and we had a car escort front and back. We came
into Healesville with over 25 horses, 30 walkers and quite a few vehicles. It
The �rst part of the day was a very slippery climb, so I walked next
was Melbourne Cup weekend so the town was packed. Coming through
to Archer to rest his legs and back. We walked through beautiful strands
the main street of Healesville was just fantastic, much like the day we left
of Mountain Ash and saw a lot of re-growth three years on from the �res.
Braidwood. There were a lot of people cheering and waving. Debbie Reid
By 11.30am, we’d been met by another band of riders up the mountain so
summed it up by saying it was like walking in an Anzac Day parade.
we were probably 15 strong by then. We stopped for lunch at a clearing
Thanks for the support Healesville!
along Monda Road, where we were met by Geoff Morrison and his family
Leaving on the �nal day
John Kasch leading the way on the �nal day
Da� �irt� �v� Con�. The Final Day - Narbethong to Healesville (38.2km)
The last 200m was quite emotional, as a local guitarist set the scene. I was
also like to thank my incredible team – Rebecca Gorman, Mitch Wall, Tom
so exhausted and having dealt with so many obstacles throughout the
Gillespie, Lachlan Campbell, Pip Coates, Tom Fernon, my girlfriend
ride, I was happy to �nish but also sad, as I knew this ended my time with
Philippa Corcoran, Verity Charters and Michael Techera who had been
my amazing support team, and the incredible horses. It was great, and I
supporting me. Thanks should also go to the Black Dog Institute, and also
think very �tting, that the ride �nished the way it started, with Mum and I
my mother, who had been so brave sharing her own personal story of
riding across the �nish line together.
depression and had given this ride meaning and purpose.
We had a really nice reception at the old railway station where we handed
At the end of the ride, I was so tired I could barely keep my eyes open, I’d
over the cheque for $50,000 to Helen Christensen from the Black Dog
lost almost 7kg and I wasn’t sure if it would ever sink in that I wouldn’t
Institute, and then we invited everyone in for a scone and a cuppa at the
have to drag the horses up another mountain. Archer may not have
railway station.
completed the trip in 1861 – but in 2012, I certainly had. This year had been a massive year for me with the Olympics, and the ride, and I was so
I would like to thank all the amazing people who went out of their way to
incredibly proud and grateful for both opportunities. I’m glad that we
help us along the trail. I’d like to thank Geoff for his beautiful horses, and
were able to raise over $50,000 for the Black Dog Institute, and I hope that
David Vaux and Archer Capital for their �nancial support. I’d also like to
this ride in a small way has raised awareness and broken down the
thank all the sponsors, including Audi for their Q7 support vehicle,
barriers for people, particularly in rural areas, living with mental illness.
Mita-vite, Imperial Floats, Horseland, Wintec Saddles, Everyday Hero, Ideas and Directions who built the website, Huff and Puff promotional gear, ARB, Epirb Hire, Talking Stones and Dave Pembroke’s Content Group. I’d
Some of the riders joining me on the �nal day
Sarah Jane, David and Tom before they embark on walking the trail on the �nal day | Major sponsor Peter Wiggs from Archer capital and his family with Archer and I | Tom, Sarah Jane & David inside one of the large trees near the Black spur, Narbethong
The horses in their paddock at the end | Leaving Narbethong on the �nal day | At the Lunch on the �nal day | The Audi at the end
Handing over the cheque for $50,000 to Professor Helen Christensen Director at the Black Dog Institute
The Archer team before we head to the Melbourne Cup- Tom Fernon, Tom Gillespie, Mitch Wall, Verity Charters, Michael Techera and I
Melbourn� Cu� 2012 Outside Flemington
Mitch, Verity and I at the Melbourne Cup
Mitch, Verity and Tom
Tom and I at the Melbourne Cup
Mitch and I at the Melbourne Cup
Followin� th� Legen� of Archer Media Release
Recently home from competing at the London Olympics in Modern
Legend has it that because suitable transport was unavailable, Archer was
Pentathlon, a sport consisting of fencing, swimming, show jumping,
walked from southern NSW to Melbourne to compete in the inaugural
running & shooting, Ed Fernon will soon embark on his next challenge – a
Melbourne Cup in 1861. He easily won the race, but these days there is
5 week horse ride, travelling over 1,100km from Braidwood NSW, through
some speculation that Archer’s long walk is a tall tale. Regardless, the
Canberra and down to Melbourne.
legend of Archer is an inspiring story, and one that has gone into Australian folklore.
The experienced horseman, who is also a Masters of Commerce student at the University of Sydney, will follow the legend of Archer, the �rst horse to win the Melbourne Cup who was reported to have walked to
Ed will leave from Archer’s gravesite in Braidwood NSW on the 1st of
Melbourne.
October, travelling on to Canberra where he will join the Bicentennial National Trail. He will follow the trail over some of Australia’s toughest mountain terrain, arriving at Healesville VIC in time for the 2012 Melbourne Cup on the 6th of November. WHY? Ed’s motivation for the ride came from the experience of having a close family member who has suffered from depression. He seeks to raise awareness of the incidence of this debilitating illness, especially in rural areas, as well as raise funds for the Black Dog Institute, an educational, research and clinical facility offering support for people suffering from depression and bipolar disorder. Archer's Grave Stone
Li�in� de�ressio� ou� of th� mis� o� � lon� rid� t� Flemingto� Carolyn Webb
EDWARD Fernon says long-distance horse riding has much in common with depression: ''It's a long struggle and you're often on your own.'' In May last year, after qualifying to represent Australia in Modern Pentathlon at the London Olympics, he felt a drive to do something to help others. His mother, Alex, suffered severe depression for more than a decade and so, being a horse person – show jumping is a pentathlon sport - he hatched a plan. He would follow in the hoof-steps of Archer, the legendary horse that won the �rst Melbourne Cup in 1861. The story goes that Archer was walked from his training base at Nowra in southern New South Wales to Melbourne to line up in the Cup in 1861. Yesterday at dawn, at the farm where Archer lived at Jembaicumbene, 95 kilometres south-east of Canberra, Mr Fernon commenced his �ve week ''re-enactment''. Despite the legend, it has long been established that Archer didn't walk to Melbourne for the Cup. He sailed. Racing historian Andrew Lemon and others have con�rmed that in September 1861, newspapers announced Archer's departure from Sydney by ship, bound for the Cup. Melbourne papers later reported his arrival. Mr Fernon is aware of this, but says ''it doesn't matter''. ''In any case, we're completing the legend that Archer never did so we've got an opportunity to ful�l that story in a way.'' Riding a horse called Archer, Mr Fernon will cover 1100 kilometres on his way to Melbourne. He heads to Queanbeyan today and then Canberra. He'll then turn south and head over the Snowy Mountains to Khancoban, through the Victorian alps to Omeo and on to Marysville.
The plan is to arrive at Flemington racecourse on Melbourne Cup day, Tuesday November 6. Mr Fernon, 24, from Sydney, had aimed to raise $50,000 for the Black Dog Institute, which treats and researches mood disorders, but has already raised $40,000 from the website Everyday Hero and fund-raising events. But another goal is raising awareness. The route deliberately passes rural sites of drought, �oods and bush�res where depression is rife. ''It's good to go through these areas, starting a dialogue with people, saying it's OK to talk about it, and 'go and seek help' because 50 per cent of people who experience depression don't receive help,'' Mr Fernon says. ''And that's far too many, so if we can get a few more people to get some assistance, to talk about their issues, I think we'll make a pretty positive impact.'' At yesterday's starting ceremony, Mr Fernon, his mother Alex and local farmer James Royds - a descendant of Archer's breeders - unveiled a stone memorial for Archer on the banks of the Jembaicumbene Creek where Archer was buried in 1872.
The original Archer, that won the �rst two Melbourne Cups.
Olym�ia� t� us� �rofil� for goo� caus� POST London, Riverina’s star pentathlete Ed Fernon struggles to describe his �rst Olympic Games experience. Competing in one of the most demanding events on the Olympic schedule, the 24-year-old was still coming down from his London high in Wagga yesterday. “It was an amazing experience, it’s quite difficult to comprehend or even to explain to people,” he told The Daily Advertiser yesterday. “It was just like a different world, everywhere you look there’s some sports hero that you idolised as a kid.” “I was in the village for about three weeks because my event was right at the end of the program so it was tough to keep focused for the entire time.” “I managed to get out of the village for a couple of days and visit some family members who live in the countryside in England, which was nice. I just spent some time with them.” “It was very intense though.” Although Fernon didn’t come home with a medal, he will carry the experience of the Games through his next Olympic preparation for Rio in 2016.
“I’m really excited and motivated to get back into training, I’m looking forward to next season.” he said. Slipping into his Australian uniform he wore for the opening ceremony, Fernon yesterday revealed his softer side with plans to turn his hand from training to charity. Fernon declared his focus had shifted from the next four years of preparation to raising awareness of mental illnesses. Using his Olympic pro�le, Fernon will take a 1070km horse ride from near Braidwood in NSW to Healesville near Melbourne for a cause that is close to his heart. “Mum suffered severe depression and I guess I saw how it took its toll on her, not only her but our whole family,” he said. “Once I quali�ed for the Olympics I thought ‘now I can use my pro�le in a positive way to help the community’. “It’s such a widespread problem, and at the end of the day it’s not a weakness, it’s a disease.” A fund-raising barbecue will be held in Wagga on September 22 to raise money for Fernon’s ride.
Braidwood Times congratulations Ed. Would you be able to send me a �nishing picture for the paper? 4 November 2012 at 20:21 Like
Ross Wall You're an absolute champion ED. Well done.4 November 2012 at 20:24 Like
Dave McGregor What a journey! 4 November 2012 at 20:03 Like
Sarah Pedersen go Ed! 4 November 2012 at 20:21 Like
Brian Silver Sensational Ed - Congrats and well done. 5 November 2012 at 02:48 Like
Anna Fitzgerald Well done. 5 November 2012 at 08:06 Like
Anna Jessie cCongratulations Ed! It was fantastic to �nally meet you and to ride with you today. You are always welcome to come and visit the boys. Thank-you for loving and caring for them both over the past 36 days. As you said, they got you out of some sticky situations but I don't think they'd have done it without your guidance and support. It was such a great atmosphere and a really breathtaking experience today. I feel so privileged to have been able to be part of this great cause. 4 November 2012 at 20:24 Like
Paul Wenck Best of Kuck Ed - champion effort 5 November 2012 at 11:21 Like
Caroline 'n' Peter Davidson Well done Ed - a fantastic and inspiring effort. 12 November 2012 at 16:23 Like
Sally Morrison It was a great day 5 November 2012 at 18:21 Like
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