SPRING + SUMMER 2020
COMEBACK COUTURE
A MODERN-TAKE ON THROWBACK FASHION
ROCK OF AGES
IS ROCK MUSIC DEAD?
+
Rethink
BEAUTIFUL HOW GEN Z AND MILLENNIALS ARE PAINTING A NEW WAVE OF AUTHENTICITY
T RIX IES SA LO N trixiessalon.com
s o u t h s i d e d s m | u p to w n c e n te r
FEATURES 16
THE BEST OF BRUNCH Your weekend just got a lot more fun.
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COMEBACK COUTURE We never go out of style.
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AN ADDICT'S GUIDE TO A DIGITAL DETOX Make a break on your own terms.
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THE UGLY KIDS A new wave of beauty.
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MORE THAN BLACK AND WHITE Take off your colorblind lenses.
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DEPARTMENTS BITS + PIECES 8 10
HEALTH + SEX
RECYCLE YOUR ROUTINE
54
UNTOUCHED BEAUTY
Beauty gone green.
Here's to celebrating our skin imperfections.
NO SHADE, NO PROBLEM
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INCLUSIVE PORN
Head-to-toe suncare essentials.
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FROM THE EDITORS
Venture outside of Pornhub.
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Apps we’re loving right now.
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SPRING PODCAST PICKS
Food for thought.
57
Our favorite pods of the season.
FOOD + DRINK 12
STACKED UP SALADS Serving size: one.
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NOT TOO SHANDY
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DEAR DEODORANT... How do I go all-natural?
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PEACE OUT, PEACH FUZZ Down with dermaplaning.
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PASTELS WITH A PUNCH Elevate your makeup routine.
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PAIN RELIEVED At-home remedies for everyday aches and pains.
MUSIC + ENTERTAINMENT 58
A WOMAN’S DIRECTION Six women-directed films for your next movie night.
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Beer and lemonade? Say no more.
FASHION + BEAUTY
MINDFUL EATING
QUEERING SOBRIETY Beyond the gay bar.
60
THE EVOLUTION OF ROCK + ROLL Alternative’s making a move.
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55
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54
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SPRING 2020 | DRAKE MAG
letter from the editor
T
oday, a worldwide pandemic is circling the air—literally. Working from home is the new normal, and Tiger King is just as popular as COVID-19. It’s my 21st birthday, and while I imagined myself ordering a round of celebration cocktails at my favorite restaurant, I’m sitting here writing you this letter completely at a loss. How do you move forward at a time like this when you can’t even leave your house? Here at Drake Mag, we’ve been processing what it means to make a magazine without inperson contact. And as much as I’d like to pretend that Zoom has been our saving grace in all of this, there’s something special about in-person collaboration we’re all craving right now. Frankly, it’s hard to feel creative after sitting on your butt all day and staring at a computer. Still, the show must go on. Even though this semester didn’t go as planned, being able to create something—even if it meant sitting in our childhood beds all day—helped us put energy towards a magazine we all love (and often hate) producing. If there’s one thing Drake Mag knows best, it’s how to be honest. Honest about who we are, honest about how we’re feeling, and honest about what we want to change. For us, this means MADI KOETTING scrapping the stigma society often places on untouched skin (pg. 54), redefining what it means to EDITOR IN CHIEF be ugly (pg. 42), and starting conversations about topics that make us uncomfortable (pg. 48). And if you’re wondering how we actually got through this season, check out our shandy recipes to make your own safe, fun (pg. 14). Reflecting on my time with Drake Mag, I’m incredibly thankful for the past three years I’ve dedicated to this magazine. I’m disappointed my final issue didn’t get a proper welcome, but I know she’ll be celebrated when social interaction becomes safe again. While I won’t miss the late-night edit sessions and having to deal with last-minute crises (no, it wasn’t just COVID-19), I know I’ll miss working with such passionate students come next year. Moving into fall 2020, I’m excited to pass the EIC baton to Cheyann Neades. She’s seen this magazine from every angle you can imagine, so I’m confident she’ll produce Drake Mag’s next best issue. Keep reading at drakemagazine.com and follow @drakemagazine on social media for updates.
ART DIRECTOR Kate Segler
PHOTO EDITOR Michaela Spielberger
ASST. ART DIRECTOR Nick Ellis
ASST. PHOTO EDITOR Anna Niedermeier
MANAGING EDITOR Emma Brustkern
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Hannah Cohen
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Emily Postlethwait
ASSISTANT EDITOR Annie Peterson
ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Abby Schindel
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Nikki Lund
SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR Nikki Lund
PHOTO Anthony Arroyo Joe Sheehan Hannah Thillman Autumn Palmer
DESIGN Fatima Calderon Emma Kerr
Taylor Boeser Megan Bohall Cameron Bolton Emily Bondura Savanna Bous Caitlin Clement
Katelyn Farebrother Sophia Lacy Allaire Nuss Kaili Miller Madyson Sklar Elizabeth Weyers Maddie Willey
MEDIA
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Madi Koetting
EXEC. ONLINE EDITOR Cheyann Neades
ART
DRAKE MAGAZINE STAFF
WORDS
Special thanks to: Catherine Staub, Jeff Inman, Sarah McCoy, Kathleen Richardson, Denise Ganpat, Drake SJMC, Christian Edwards Printing, Trixie’s Salon, and all of our models.
Copyright 2020 by Drake Mag and Drake Magazine. Drake Mag is published with the support of the Board of Student Communications. Opinions expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Drake University. Letters to the Editor are encouraged and may be published online at www.drakemagazine.com. Please direct any questions, comments, or concerns to drakemag@gmail.com
THE BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO ENNEAGRAMS
THE FUTURE OF DISNEY PLUS
HOW TO SPRING CLEAN YOUR CLOSET
WORDS VADA ABRAHAMSON
WORDS BRENT IRA NERY
WORDS BAILEY CORONIS
The enneagram personality typing system continues to gain popularity. Get to know the basics of your enneagram number and learn more about all 9 types.
Disney Plus brought back a lot of oldies, but will they continue to be goodies? This writer explores if, and how, the streaming service will stay alive despite competition with other streaming platforms.
Getting rid of clothes can be a time commitment, but once it’s done, it can feel so good. Spring cleaning—but make it fashion.
Reach out to our Executive Online Editor, Cheyann Neades at cheyann.neades@drake.edu
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BITS + PIECES
Recycle YOUR ROUTINE 8
SPRING 2020 | DRAKE MAG
WORDS MEGAN BOHALL ILLUSTRATION KATE SEGLER
W
e’re familiar with the rules for recycling food and household items, but when it comes to makeup products, the rules are a bit more complicated. According to Zero Waste Week, the makeup industry produces more than 120 billion units of packaging, most of which is plastic or hard to recycle. So how can you use your favorite products and feel confident they’re disposed of properly? Follow our tips below to start recycling your routine while learning how to become a more sustainable consumer.
KNOW THE BASICS
First things first, know your product before putting in the work to recycle it. Similar rules apply to beauty as they do food, so if it has a twist-off lid or is packaged in glass, it should be a-okay. Plastic bottles like shampoo, conditioner, and body wash are usually recyclable, but the trigger head pump is best left for the trash. Next, rinse the bottle out completely—if it has any residue or left over product, the recycling plant will likely send it straight to the landfill. As you rinse, pour excess product in a closed container so it doesn’t seep into the trash. Most beauty products contain harmful ingredients for the environment, so keeping it in a closed container post-use is a good rule of thumb.
LOOK FOR “GREEN” BEAUTY
Still, there’s plenty of products like razors, makeup palettes, and lipstick that doesn’t fit this list. Thankfully, brands like MAC, Lush, and Kiehl’s have their own recycling programs to simplify the process. Once you’re finished with their product, return it to their store and they’ll do the heavy lifting for you—they might even offer a free gift after returning a certain number of items. Other brands like Garnier, Gillette, and Burt’s Bees partner with TerraCycle—a company that makes hard-to-recycle materials, recyclable—to cut down on waste from beauty and makeup. Packaging sent to TerraCycle is broken down and reused for other materials like plastic lumber or repurposed for new product use.
SUPPORT THE INITIATIVE
To minimize your plastic footprint, try switching to brands that support the sustainable beauty initiative. Companies like Bite, Aether Beauty, and Meow Meow Tweet—yes, you read that right—are taking the guesswork out of recycling by using zero-waste packaging. Anything from toothpaste, to deodorant, to eyeshadow palettes are recyclable and good for the environment—some companies even donate to charities to spread the wealth. So, before you rummage through the drugstore aisle searching for new makeup, look for brands that support the zerowaste initiative to start going green, one lipstick at a time.
Exceptions TO THE RULE
Before you toss your products in the little blue bin, look for the recycling triangle on the bottle. This will tell you if it’s recyclable, and if you can’t find the triangle, the product might be best for the trash. Use our guide below to know what’s best to throw out and what can be repurposed*. *Check your local waste management site for more recycling guidelines
RECYCLE
■ Aerosols like spray deodorant, dry shampoo, and hairspray ■ Packaging that includes: Hard, twist-off plastic; pumps thrown away and rinsed well ■ Glass containers, rinsed well ■ Paper
TRASH ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■
Nail polish remover Body spray Makeup products Brushes Mascara Palettes Mirrors, tip applicators, or magnets Any product or packaging 5 inches or smaller Packaging that includes: Tubes like toothpaste, lip gloss, moisturizer, etc. Cellophane Trigger head pumps Plastic caps
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NO SHADE ,
NO PROBLEM FROM HAIR MISTS TO LIP BALMS, HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO PROTECT YOUR BODY FROM HEAD-TO-TOE ALL SUMMER LONG.
WORDS SOPHIA LACY PHOTOS EMMA KERR
C
atch some rays this season without sacrificing healthy skin. Check out our picks below for tips on how to say glowing all summer long.
LOCKED IN LIPS
Your lips can get sun damage, too. Over exposure from UV rays can cause lips to lose collagen, protein, and healthy tissue. Look for lip balms with SPF in them to protect your skin and promote strong tissue at the same time. Our Pick: Supergoop! Mint Fusion Lip Balm SPF 30, $9.50, amazon.com
MISTY SOLUTIONS
We’ve all suffered from an unpleasant scalp burn. But lathering on sunscreen isn’t so simple when it’s for our hair. Thankfully, things like hair mists and sprays exist to keep locks happy and unharmed, minus the mess. Our Pick: Clarins Sunscreen Care Oil Spray SPF 30, $36, sephora.com
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SUN-PROOF SPECS Always look for sunglasses with 100% UV protection from UVA and UVB rays to fully protect your eyes from the sun. Polarized lenses are a plus as they help reduce glare from the sun. You get what you pay for, so investing in high quality rays could offer better protection. Our Pick: Shady Rays, prices starting at $48, shadyrays.com
A LIGHTWEIGHT SHIELD
It’s time to introduce sunscreen into your beauty routine. Your skin’s exposed to harmful rays as soon as the sun begins to peak out in the early spring and as it hides away in the fall. Go for a lightweight, serum-like formula—like Glossier’s Invisible Shield—for double duty hydration and protection. Our Pick: Glossier Invisible Shield, $25, glossier.com
INSTANT PROTECTION
Most sunburns often stem from laziness to lather on sunscreen. It’s time consuming, and sometimes messy. Sunscreen towelettes are an easy, simple, and handy alternative. They’re convenient for on-the-go traveling and allow for easy re-application midday. Our Pick: SunX Sunscreen Towelettes, $19, amazon.com
From The Editors APPS WE’RE LOVING RIGHT NOW.
WORDS TAYLOR BOESER ILLUSTRATION EMMA KERR
NAKED BEAUTY
CLASH ROYALE
A beauty show about wellness tips and trend
Join the online world of Clash Royale to battle players, destroy their towers, and team up with clans. Play your cards right to create the best battle strategies and join clans to take down other players together. “My favorite cards to play are the ‘Bandit’ and ‘Valkrie,’ but you’ll have to battle me sometime to see how I play each card!” -Michaela Spielberger
and tutorials. This cast provides listeners with
GEMINI PHOTOS Meet the Marie Kondo for decluttering your photo library. Its Tinderesc swiping interface lets you swipe through your library as it detects blurred, similar, and duplicate photos to help you decide which to keep and which to delete. “I like this app because it simplifies the process and clears up your photo library in less than an hour.” -Anna Niedermeier
1 SECOND A DAY (Re)live in the moment. For one-second a day, this app lets you take a quick video to create a virtual diary to look through over the year— highlighting both the good and not-so-great memories. “If I am feeling down or tired, I like to look back on videos for a little pick-me-up.” -Abby Schindel
BANDSINTOWN If you’re always the last to hear about when your favorite band is in town, then this app is for you. Bandsintown connects to your music streaming app—like Spotify or Apple Music—and tracks when your favorite artists are coming to a city near you. For an added bonus, connect with friends and plan concert outings through the app. “I like this app because I can keep lists of the shows I’ve seen, plan to see, and it allows me to check out various genres.” -Cheyann Neades
DAYLIO If you’re the type that’s obsessed with journaling—or wondering how to start—Daylio makes tracking your day-to-day less of a chore. “I would highly recommend this app to people who want to get better at maintaining consistent habits and keeping track of their mental health.” -Emma Brustkern
CO-STAR A bit “creepy accurate,” Co-Star sends you a daily message unique to your zodiac sign. The app examines different parts of your life—like your professional and creative personas—and provides specific insight on each. You can even connect with friends and check how compatible you are with them, as a treat. “This app is different from other horoscopes because it lets me examine how my day is going, but sometimes it’s a little bit too spot on…” -Annie Peterson
insights—minus the product recommendations unfiltered commentary on topics in Black and Korean beauty, self-care, and more as host Brooke DeVard Ozaydinli interviews powerful women in the industry. Listen on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
TIL DEATH DO US BLART Every Thanksgiving, five brothers dive into the cinematic masterpiece that is Paul Blart: Mall Cop 2. With a vow to uphold this strange tradition until the end of time, they share their thoughts and emotions through the ups and downs of the film in this annual podcast. Listen on Apple Podcasts.
COOL DEAD WOMEN Mother and daughter duo Blair and Erika Waters explore the accomplishments and tragedies of unacknowledged, powerful women in our history. These short and sweet episodes will leave you with a heightened appreciation for women, everywhere. Listen on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
FOR THE RECORD: THE 70S Host Amy Lively talks music, politics, and culture in this cast about 1970s music genres and their lasting legacies. In each episode, she weighs the impact historical events had on music in the '70s while exploring how it inspired artists for years to come. Listen on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
THE WAY I HEARD IT From the invention of Pringles to Hollywood history, these are the stories you thought you knew. Mike Rowe takes listeners through surprising tales, leaving them with a new anecdote to share with friends. Listen on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
STACKED UP FOUR JARRING RECIPES TO TURN YOUR SAD SALAD INTO A MASTER CHEF CREATION. WORDS SAVANNA BOUS ILLUSTRATION KATE SEGLER
SWEET + SAVORY
AVOCADO CLASSIC
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
1 ½ cups cabbage salad mix 1 mandarin orange ¼ cup shredded carrots 2 Tbsp. cashews 2 Tbsp. peanut oil
1 ½ cups Italian salad mix ½ avocado, sliced ¼ cup cherry craisins 1 Tbsp. sunflower seeds 3 Tbsp. cilantro lime avocado oil dressing
INSTRUCTIONS Layer ingredients in a mason jar starting with cabbage salad mix . Top with peanut oil, or dressing of choice.
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INSTRUCTIONS Layer ingredients in a mason jar starting with Italian salad mix . Top with cilantro lime avocado dressing, or dressing of choice.
salads
FOOD + DRINK
STRAWBERRY CRISP
PROTEIN GREENS
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
1 ½ cups arugula 2 strawberries, sliced ¼ cup feta cheese 2 Tbsp. sliced almonds 3 Tbsp. poppy seed dressing
1 ½ cups kale 1/4 cup quinoa 1/8 cup shredded parmesan cheese 3 Tbsp. walnuts 2 Tbsp. raspberry vinaigrette
INSTRUCTIONS
INSTRUCTIONS
Layer ingredients in a mason jar starting with arugula. Top with poppy seed dressing, or dressing of choice.
Layer ingredients in a mason jar starting with kale. Top with raspberry vinaigrette, or dressing of choice.
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cucumber LIME INGREDIENTS 1 bottle Pilsner beer Our Pick: Millstream Brewing Co. German Pilsner 1 can of lemon-lime soda 2 fresh limes, sliced ½ cucumber, sliced 1 Tbsp. simple syrup cucumbers, lime, and mint leaves to garnish Juice one lime with a citrus juicer or by hand. Pour lime juice and spoon remains in the glass, minus the rind. Add simple syrup and 3 cucumber slices. Muddle ingredients with a spoon to extract the juices and finely mince. Add ice and pour beer halfway. Fill the rest of the glass with lemon-lime soda. Garnish with lime and cucumber to serve.
not too
SHANDY THE BEST BEVERAGES TO COOL YOU DOWN THIS SEASON, COMBINED. WORDS MADDIE WILLEY PHOTOS JOE SHEEHAN
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FOOD + DRINK
orange FUSION INGREDIENTS 1 bottle IPA Our Pick: Surly Brewing Co. the Axe Man IPA 1 can pear sparkling soda 1 can orange sparkling soda 1 orange 1 Tbsp. simple syrup orange slice to garnish Juice half the orange with a citrus juicer or by hand. Combine simple syrup and 1 Tbsp. fresh orange juice in glass. Pour glass ½ full with equal parts orange and pear soda. Top with IPA and garnish with an orange slice to serve.
lemon GRAPEFRUIT INGREDIENTS 1 bottle IPA Our Pick: Confluence Brewing Company, Des Moines IPA 1 bottle lemon kombucha 1 can grapefruit sparkling soda ¼ cup water 1 Tbsp. simple syrup grapefruit and lemon slices to garnish Combine water, simple syrup, and grapefruit soda in a cocktail mixer with ice. Shake well. Pour glass 1/3 full with mixture. Top with equal parts kombucha and beer. Garnish with a slice of grapefruit and lemon to serve.
very BERRY INGREDIENTS 1 bottle IPA Our Pick: Dorothy’s New World Lager from Toppling Goliath Brewing 1 bottle blueberry kombucha 1 bottle strawberry kombucha ¼ cup strawberries and blueberries to garnish Add ice to glass and pour ½ full with equal parts strawberry and blueberry kombucha. Top with beer and garnish with berries to serve.
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FOOD + DRINK
SWEET AND SAVORY PICKS TO AMP UP YOUR WEEKEND ROUTINE. WORDS CAITLIN CLEMENT PHOTOS & STYLING ANTHONY ARROYO & NICK ELLIS
lavender & blackberry cocktail SERVINGS PER RECIPE: 3-4 INGREDIENTS 2 cups vodka ½ cup blackberry lavender syrup 4 oz. lime juice 1 liter club soda 1 cup frozen blackberries fresh rosemary to garnish For blackberry simple syrup: 1 cup water 1 cup sugar 1 cup fresh blackberries
INSTRUCTIONS Simple syrup: Combine water, sugar, and blackberries in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir well to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat to a low simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Strain well and muddle blueberries to release their juices. Cocktail: In a glass pitcher, combine vodka, simple syrup, lime juice, and club soda, stirring well. Refrigerate overnight. Before serving, add frozen blackberries and ice. Garnish with rosemary sprigs to serve.
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FOOD + DRINK FOOD + DRINK
pear + walnut oatmeal bake SERVINGS PER RECIPE: 4-5 INGREDIENTS 2 ½ bananas, sliced 2 small pears, diced 1 ½ tsp. cinnamon 5 Tbsp. maple syrup 1 cup uncooked quick oats 5 Tbsp. chopped walnuts
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½ tsp. baking powder Pinch of salt 1 cup milk 1 large egg 1 tsp. vanilla extract
SPRING SPRING 2020 2020| DRAKE | DRAKE MAG MAG
INSTRUCTIONS Preheat oven to 375 F and grease a 9x9 ceramic baking dish. Layer bananas and pears on the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle ½ tsp. cinnamon and 2 Tbsp. maple syrup over fruit. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes, or until fruit is soft. In a medium bowl, combine oats, 2 ½ Tbsp. walnuts, ½ tsp. cinnamon, baking powder, and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk 2 Tbsp. maple syrup, milk, egg, and vanilla extract. Remove fruit from oven and pour oat mixture over fruit. Pour egg mixture over oats and fruit and top with a ½ tsp. cinnamon and 2 ½ Tbsp. walnuts. Cook for 35 minutes or until golden brown. Garnish with walnuts and cinnamon to serve.
assorted brunch bagels Layer the ingredients like we did here, or create your own bagel bar with your favorite toppings. layered berries ½ honey wheat bagel blueberry jam 1 strawberry, sliced 5 blueberries
lox + capers ½ seasoned bagel plain cream cheese 4 slices of salmon capers and thyme to garnish
blueberry bliss ½ plain bagel plain cream cheese ¼ cup blueberries
cucumber + tomato ½ plain bagel
mango + blackberry
pb&b + strawberry ½ honey wheat bagel peanut butter ½ banana, sliced 1 strawberry, sliced coconut flakes and chocolate chips to garnish
veggie cream cheese ½ tomato, sliced ½ cucumber, sliced ½ radish, sliced
½ plain bagel plain cream cheese ¼ mango sliced 4 blackberries
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chia puddings SERVINGS PER RECIPE: 3-4 Make it a pudding bar and mix these bases with all your favorite toppings. INGREDIENTS Plain Base: 1 cup milk 1/2 cup plain greek yogurt 1 Tbsp. honey 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1/4 tsp. salt 1/3 cup chia seeds mango chunks and coconut flakes to garnish
Chocolate Base: 1 cup milk 1/2 cup plain greek yogurt 3 Tbsp. honey 3 Tbsp. cocoa powder 1/2 tsp. cinnamon 1/2 tsp. cardamom 1/4 tsp. salt 1/3 cup chia seeds raspberries, chocolate chips, and almond slices to garnish INSTRUCTIONS Chocolate Base: In a medium bowl, whisk together milk, yogurt, honey, cocoa powder, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt. Whisk in chia seeds. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Dish into cups and top with raspberries, almonds, and chocolate chips. Plain Base: In a medium bowl whisk together milk, yogurt, honey, vanilla, and salt. Whisk in chia seeds. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Dish into cups and top with mango chunks and coconut flakes.
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FOOD + DRINK
fried egg + bacon pastry SERVINGS PER RECIPE: 4-5 INGREDIENTS 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed 5 thick strips of bacon, cooked 11 eggs 1 Tbsp. butter salt and pepper, to taste chives to garnish
INSTRUCTIONS Preheat oven to 425 F. On a floured surface, unfold the pastry and roll flat to make a 12-inch rectangle. Lightly knead the dough with your fingertips and gently raise the edges to create sides. Beat one egg in a bowl with butter. Using a brush, lightly glaze the pastry with the egg mixture. Layer cooked bacon strips over pastry. Crack 5 eggs into the basin of the pastry. Using the remaining 5 eggs, separate the egg whites in a bowl and beat well. Pour egg whites over pastry. Cook pastry in the oven for 30 minutes, or until golden and fluffy. Garnish with chives to serve.
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FASHION + BEAUTY
dear deodorant...
HOW DO I SWITCH TO ALL-NATURAL INGREDIENTS WITHOUT SMELLING LIKE A MIDDLE-SCHOOL BOY? THIS WRITER GIVES US THE BEST SECRETS FOR MAKING THE SWITCH TO PIT-FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVES. WORDS NIKKI LUND PHOTOS AUTUMN PALMER We hate to break it to you, but it’s time to switch your deodorant. Popular brands sold at drugstores contain a long list of added chemicals, which can keep your body from releasing toxins properly. As a result, grime and buildup can hide on your underarms the more it’s used—and no one wants that. Make the switch to all-natural deodorant with this helpful guide for maintaining fresh pits.
1. PREP YOUR PITS
Before switching to an all-natural deodorant, you’ll need to exfoliate your underarms with a replenishing wash. “One of the best ways to make sure that you’re getting the most out of your deodorant is by starting off with a clean slate,” says Dr. Cally Chermak, dermatologist in Minn. Start by using an armpit detox mask or scrub to rid your pits of bacteria buildup leftover from your old deodorant. Our pick: Pacifica Coconut and Charcoal Underarm Detox Scrub, $15, ulta.com
2. GO ALL-NATURAL
The world of all-natural deodorant is vast. And a lot of brands might not work for you right off the bat. Start by looking for paraben- and aluminumfree picks that swap baking soda for tapioca starch. Baking soda can irritate skin, so substitutes like tapioca starch can keep pits fresh and healthy in the long run. For added hydration, look for natural moisturizing agents like shea butter and cocoa. Our pick: Each & Every Worry-Free Deodorant in Coconut & Lime, $15, eachandevery.com
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3. DON’T NEGLECT IRRITATION
Essential oils and other natural ingredients can easily irritate sensitive skin. If you see a rash coming on, don’t sweat it. “Some people can’t wear natural deodorant because of the irritation it can cause, so they have to use ones with less natural ingredients,” Chermak says. Our pick: Dove 0% Aluminum Cucumber & Green Tea Deodorant Stick*, $6, target.com *Although this deodorant is not labeled natural, it has no aluminum, making it a better alternative to other drugstore options
4. MONITOR YOUR PROGRESS
Switching to natural deodorant can be a lengthy—and smelly—process. For the first month during your transition, your body will likely undergo a natural detox. Remember to keep up with your normal hygiene routine during this transitional phase and use your detox scrub to keep your pits squeaky clean.
peace out, peach fuzz LITTLE HAS BEEN SAID ABOUT FACE SHAVING FOR WOMEN. HERE’S THE INSIDE SCOOP ON HOW TO FREE THE FUZZ WHILE KEEPING YOUR SKIN HAPPY. WORDS CHEYANN NEADES PHOTOS HANNAH THILLMAN
L
et’s face it. Everyone has facial hair, but the rules for removing it differ for men and women. Removing facial hair is nothing new. For years, women have waxed their upper lip and trimmed pesky facial hairs. Today, women have taken to removing the fuzz altogether—and the benefits are endless. The most tried-and-true method for removing facial hair is dermaplaning, which is the process of using a small blade to exfoliate the skin’s surface and remove pesky hairs. While the small blade gets to work on your face, it simultaneously replenishes the skin’s surface, creating a blank slate for absorbing products. Don’t let the fancy name steer you away. Dermaplaning can be done in the comfort of your own home or by a professional with prices ranging from $75-$150. But just like any other skincare treatment, there are some risks to be aware of before saying goodbye to peach fuzz. “With any esthetic treatment, there is a chance of breaking out,” says Meaghan Dare, licensed esthetician at Chicago Cosmetic Surgery and Dermatology. “If anyone has a pimple brewing underneath the skin, the treatment will be cleaning out the pores and drawing the impurities
to the surface." So before you go on a free-for-all face shaving frenzy, be careful around pimples and acne prone areas to avoid spreading toxins. Whether you stick to DIY methods at home or leave your facial hair up to the professionals, knowing your skin type is key. “If you have a lot of active acne, then dermaplaning could potentially open up a lot of pimples causing them to spread. Other than men with beards, [dermaplaning] is safe for all skin types,” Dare says. Even if your skin is less acne-prone but easily irritated, it might be best to start in small areas of your face before going all out. For best results, remove your makeup and cleanse the skin with a gentle wash. You’ll want to make sure your skin is completely dry and moisture free to easily remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. And if you’re still not convinced, that’s okay. We were all made with a little fuzz for a reason, so if you’re not comfortable removing it then that’s okay, too. Whether you stick to DIY treatments at home or want to learn more about your skin type before trying it out yourself, consult a licensed esthetician or dermatologist.
AT-HOME DERMAPLANING TOOLS Check out our picks below for costfriendly, at-home face shaving tools.
TINKLE EYEBROW RAZOR, $4.25, AMAZON.COM A budget friendly option, the Tinkle Eyebrow Razor is best for touching up small areas on-the-go and is safe for all facial zones—not just your brows.
PHILIPS WOMEN’S PRECISION PERFECT FACIAL HAIR TRIMMER, $13, TARGET.COM A vibrating razor that does (most) of the work for you. This razor comes with a trimming head that’s gentle and safe for all-over hair removal or targeted areas.
FLAWLESS DERMAPLANE GLO, $20, ULTA.COM The best part of this pick, it has a light to help you get every last fuzz. Plus, it comes with six replacement edges to promote hygienic exfoliation.
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PASTELS WITH A
DREAMY MAKEUP LOOKS TO HIGHLIGHT ALL SEASON LONG. WORD EMILY BONDURA PHOTOS ANTHONY ARROYO
ORANGE CRUSH An eye-look just as bright as the summer sun. To achieve this bright-eyed look, choose a bold orange eye shadow for the lower lash line and a sharp yellow to brighten the inner corners. Start by sweeping the orange shadow under your lower lash line. Blend with a brush and continue to pack the shadow to build pigment. Next, sweep the yellow shadow in the corners of your eye, making sure to blend it in up and down motions. Top with black liner to finish this sunny look.
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FASHION + BEAUTY
SPARKLING LAVENDER Make it monochromatic to shine in all the right places. Start with your favorite shade of purple shadow, here we used the NYX ultimate shadow palette in light purple, and blend it across your lid. Next, take a glimmery shadow or highlighter and blend it across your temples. Pack it with a punch or lightly sweep it across your highlight zone for a more subtle look. Add a light purple lipstick or clear gloss to complete this holographic look.
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FASHION + BEAUTY
MINT FRESH The staple color of the season with a hint of icy hues. To achieve this look, start by sweeping a light green shadow across your eyelid. To contrast the shadow, take a darker shade of green and blend it on the outsides of your lid. For added shine, blend the shadow towards your temples and highlighter zones. Finish the look with a rose-pink lipstick or gloss.
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JUST PEACHY A neutral look that will keep you glowing all season long. Start by lightly filling in your brows with your pencil of choice and top with a clear brow gel. Add a touch of peach eyeshadow to your lids and apply a peach-toned bronzer to the contours of your cheekbones, edges of face, and nose. Pair with your favorite highlighter to finish off the look.
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couture PUFFY SLEEVES, ANIMAL PRINTS, NEON, AND MORE. THESE FASHION STATEMENTS ARE RETURNING FOR GOOD.
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WORDS KAILI MILLER MICHAELA SPRING 2020PHOTOS | DRAKE MAG SPIELBERGER ILLUSTRATION KATE SEGLER FASHION + STYLING KAILI MILLER + MADI KOETTING
FASHION + BEAUTY
On Jacob Shirt and hat: handmade by model; pants: thrifted; sunglasses: model’s own; shoes: Dr. Martens On Sneha Shirt: Altar’d State; dress: Forever 21; backpack: Kate Spade; sunglasses: Francesca’s; hair clips and hoops: Forever 21; shoes: model's own
THE YEAR OF SHEER Transparency is key. Not only will sheer fabrics keep you cool during warmer months, they add a layer of texture to plain fabrics. Mix with light-wash denim and sunglasses from the same color or style family to accomplish your desired look.
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SHADES OF SNAKE SKIN A type of snake skin you won’t want to shed. Just like leopard, this animal motif has become its own fashion staple for shirts, skirts, shoes, accessories—you name it. Mix and match like we did here, or add traces of snake skin on any fit to make a statement. On Riley Shirt and jacket: model’s own; skirt: Nordstrom Rack; necklace: model’s own; shoes: model’s own
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FASHION + BEAUTY
SPOTS OF LEOPARD These spots are here to stay. Spice up any fit with traces of leopard in accessories like shoes, headbands, and sunglasses, or make it the center of the show like we did here. On D’Andre Shirt: Forever21; pants: Pacsun; Watch: Movado
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FASHION + BEAUTY
NEON CLASSIC Bring on the fluorescents. Go for a monochromatic look by doubling up on your color of choice, or pick a color block pattern to show off these saturated hues all at once.
On Sneha Dress and shirt: Forever 21; hoops: model’s own On Sohil Jacket: Ragstock; jeans: American Eagle; fanny pack: Forever 21
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COLORFUL LEATHER There’s more to it than black and white. Mix and match your most colorful leather finds to create a chic and vibrant statement . On Riley Jacket: Nordstrom Rack; pants: model’s own; hoops: Forever 21
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Whether you’re going for the classic floral look or feeling a bit more tropical, these patterns are here to make a dyanmic statement. Don’t be afraid to layer different colors— the bolder the better.
On Jacob Shirt: Ragstock; pants: model’s own
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FASHION + BEAUTY
On Sarah Shirt: Forever 21; pants: Target
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an addict's guide to a
digital detox TAKE MINIMALISM TO A NEW LEVEL BY RESTRICTING YOUR TECHNOLOGY USAGE.
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WORDS HANNAH COHEN ILLUSTRATION KATE SEGLER
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FEATURES
W
e hate to say it, but we’re drowning in tech. And while Gen Z and millennials are often the blamed culprits for ‘spending too much time on their phones’ with the ‘inability to connect offline,’ the same goes for baby boomers, too. On a typical day, the average person spends about 3-5 hours on their phone. In a single workday, we pick up our phones around 58 times with each session lasting about 2-10 minutes. What’s more, at least than 30 minutes per day is lost to endless scrolling. Every generation has a clear reliance on tech, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. It’s wonderful to live in a society where the world is pretty much at our fingertips, but if we let our screens own us without taking charge of our productivity, there could be some serious consequences.
A MINIMALIST’S APPROACH
The latest craze for reducing our digital footprint is digital minimalism. It’s a philosophy developed from Cal Newport’s book published in 2019, Digital Minimalism: Choosing a Focused Life in a Noisy World. Minimalism is about making intentional use of the everyday—whether that’s in fashion, beauty, material items, lifestyle choices, etc.—and digital minimalism follows the exact same approach. Newport stresses that understanding our digital habits is the first step in becoming a digital minimalist. It’s not about going on our phones or internet less. It’s about “optimizing activities that strongly support things you value, and then happily missing out on everything else.” It’s tucking “the fear of missing out” (FOMO) away by focusing on what digital activities provide optimal value. Technology isn’t bad. Social media isn’t bad. And—you guessed it—the internet isn’t bad. The humans who use it, on the other hand, may need a reality check. “Technology is an amazing tool, but sometimes we forget it’s just that, a tool,”
says Dr. Mark Mayfield, CEO of Mayfield Counseling. “We’re the most connected generation in history and yet we are lonelier than ever.” Tech is a tool for connection. But as our brains have developed in the age of tech, our habits have started becoming mindless, not purposeful. Mindlessly scrolling Instagram looking for that boost of adrenaline, making impulsive purchases on Amazon, or keeping up with work via professional messaging apps—everything is on our phones. You can’t get away from your screen even if you tried. Your life is on there. Dr. Tim Bono, psychology professor at Washington University in St. Louis, recognizes it, too. “It’s important for us to be wise consumers of technology and understand it’s not whether we use it, but the ways we use it that can really have implications for our overall well-being,” Dr. Bono. says
“IT’S IMPORTANT FOR US TO BE WISE CONSUMERS OF TECHNOLOGY AND UNDERSTAND IT’S NOT WHETHER WE USE IT, BUT THE WAYS WE USE IT THAT CAN REALLY HAVE IMPLICATIONS FOR OUR OVERALL WELL-BEING.” —DR. BONO
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Removing technology cold-turkey isn’t the solution to the problem. We are the problem, and we need to understand our habits to create solutions that best suit our lifestyles.
THE ‘WHY’ BEHIND THE ‘WHAT’
One of the first steps in addressing our tech reliance is understanding what we have and why. Likely the most versatile piece of tech out there—the smartphone—houses our social media apps, email, bank accounts, fitness trackers—the list is endless. And it’s likely the biggest cause of day-to-day anxiety because of the surplus notifications we receive from friends, work, and daily productivity apps. Before eliminating apps and training our brains to think more minimally about our tech, we first have to come to terms with our usage. “There are apps on your phone that tell you how much time you spend on it and provide a journal of how often you check it,” Dr. Bono says. “The simple act of observing the behavior is all about holding yourself accountable. That sense of accountability can be very effective in keeping one on track with becoming more mindful and using technology in ways that are less harmful to us.” After facing the music and coming to terms with how many hours a day we waste on screen, we can start placing value on what’s absolutely essential and start ditching what’s useless. An addict’s digital detox, so to speak. “If you’re using technology to stay informed about what’s going on in the world, using it as a way to learn about opportunities to be involved in the community, connect with people, and stay in touch with others, that can be a great thing,” Dr. Bono says. News, fitness, banking, and reminder apps can be great uses of technology. It helps you stay on track and manage your lifestyle in a way that wouldn’t otherwise be possible. Still, it can be effortlessly easy to mindlessly click through these apps only to find yourself
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five minutes later wondering why you opened it in the first place. This especially goes for social media—the biggest culprit of them all. Joni Siani, assistant professor of media and communications at Manhattanville College, recommends organizing your on-screen apps to keep your mind accountable. “Whether that’s putting all of them in a folder or removing them all together, it takes your brain that extra step of going, 'Do I really want to open this?',” Siani says. “It’s about taking that extra step to implement mindful strategies.” Once you start thinking about why you’re using your phone and what apps are essential for enhancing your every-day, you can start to practice more mindful strategies for maintaining a digital detox.
THE MENTAL HEALTH SACRIFICE
Maybe the phrase, “the world is at your fingertips,” is a little too real nowadays. Everything you could possibly learn is at the hand of Google. What’s more, apps are even teaching us how to be more productive, whether that’s training our bodies to run a 5k, keeping track of important events and daily to-dos, or scheduling appointments. When used for keeping up with the push and pull of life, tech is great. In fact, it’s probably made us the most productive society there is. Still, it comes at a price. Semi-tasking is the new multitasking, making our minds spin every which way trying to keep up with everyday to-dos. As a result, the tasks we accomplish are completed half as well as they could be if 100 percent of our attention was focused on one thing. We’re still alive, but we’re barely breathing trying to consume it all at once. The same goes for social media. Our bodies crave connection to the outside world. We have an inherent sense of belonging, and technology helps us fulfill this need. “Every text, every like, goes to the hardcore of our DNA which is to bond with another person,” Siani says.
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“MY MOTTO IS THAT YOU’RE HUMAN, YOU HAVE ALL THE APPS YOU NEED WHEN IT COMES TO CONNECTION AND IT’S ABOUT DEVELOPING THAT AUTONOMY SO YOU’RE RELYING ON YOUR OWN CAPABILITIES.” —JONI SIANI
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Social media is the epicenter of virtual connection. Instagram let’s us share our best photos, Facebook communicates our day-to-day feelings, and Snapchat lets us send funny tidbits of our day through 10-second photos. And while it makes us feel uber connected to everyone around us, it can also create feelings of deep sadness and loneliness. It has, and still is, becoming a game of “who wore it best,” where we’re constantly looking at grass that’s greener on the other side. “If we’re only focused on how many likes we get on social media, that is a form of social comparison,” Dr. Bono says. “We wish that we get more likes or otherwise get more recognition on social media by other people and that inherently inflates bad self-image.” It’s completely normal to feel a sense of disconnect when scrolling through Instagram or Snapchat. Next time you catch yourself going down a path of despair while on social media, think about the why behind the what. What type of content makes you feel lonely? Is this content essential, or can you go without it? How can you limit your interaction with this content? Once we’re able to recognize toxic feelings, we can start creating mindful habits to take control of our tech. “Take a second and think: ‘why is this important to me?’,” Dr. Bono says. “Think about your mental health or side effects that are coming as overuse of this technology. Once you think of why it’s important for you, change the behavior so that you have more time to spend with friends, do your work, or prevent yourself from falling into the trap of social comparison that might lead to anxiety or sadness.”
HABITUAL FIXES
If you haven’t caught on by now, digital minimalism is all about creating mindful habits. For the apps on your phone, start by compartmentalizing them. Like Siani suggested, categorize them by function and next time you go to open an app,
your brain will take an extra second to question why you need it in the first place. Training your brain to think before it takes action is a great first step in minimizing useless screen usage. Monitor your sleeping habits, too. The blue light emitted from screens not only drains your eyes, but it keeps your mind awake for hours on end. If you sleep with your phone, consider tucking it under a pillow or putting it under your bed to avoid unconscious reaching. You deserve a full 8 hours of sleep without wondering what’s going on online, so put it as far out of reach as possible. It’s also important to remember that your brain is more powerful than you think. It’s constantly being conditioned based on the habits you perpetually implement, so take the extra time to think about what you want from your digital cleanse. “My motto is that you’re human, you have all the apps you need when it comes to connection and it’s about developing that autonomy so you’re relying on your own capabilities,” Siani says. Practice makes perfect, and this absolutely goes for implementing mindful digital habits. Nearly five, if not more, hours per day are spent on screen. And while this statistic doesn’t tell us what we’re doing on our phones everyday, understanding where we’re throwing our time can help us weigh what’s worth it and what’s not. “The parts of the brain that grow, change, and develop in relationships don’t get the chance to grow if we’re always hiding behind technology,” Dr. Mayfield says. “When they don’t grow and develop like they should we enter into arrested development or delayed development relationally and emotionally.” We don’t need to feel guilty for however long we spend on our phones, but we do need to understand why we’re on our phones to stop unhealthy habits in their tracks. There’s no right or wrong way for becoming a digital minimalist. You’re the owner of your tech, so take charge of your habits and start living a fuller life.
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FOR YEARS, WE’VE PRETENDED THAT OUR LIVES ARE PERFECT IN THE FACE OF SOCIAL MEDIA. WE’VE BECOME LESS COMFORTABLE IN OUR NATURAL SELVES, AND IN THE PROCESS WE’VE ASKED BRANDS TO DO THE SAME. TODAY, IT’S OUT WITH THE OLD AND IN WITH THE NEW. HERE’S WHAT GEN Z AND MILLENNIALS ARE DOING TO LEAD A NEW WAVE OF AUTHENTICITY.
HOW 13-36YEAR-OLDS THINK ABOUT SOCIAL MEDIA...
WORDS MADI KOETTING PHOTOS JOE SHEEHAN t’s 2010 and you just downloaded the hottest new app: Instagram. It’s the kick-off to your social media “career,” and you spend hours trying to perfect every last detail from head-to-toe. Next, you spend 20 minutes picking just the right caption to sum up your mood, and before hitting “post,” a flood of anxiety rushes through your body. After all, this is the first time you’re entering “the real world”—the real world of media, the internet, and everything digital, that is. Fast forward to today, and the world of how we post, act, and dress is vastly different in the face of social media. The ugly aesthetic is upon us, and it’s here to stay.
THE UGLY TREND SETTERS
If you haven’t heard of the ugly aesthetic, it’s time to get familiar. We’re seeing it everywhere—dad sneakers, bucket hats, the crocs comeback, influencer marketing, and so much more. Y Pulse Trends defines ugly as a way of embracing the authentic— in social media, fashion, advertising, and even food. It’s about seeking “content that flies in the face of perfection.” No longer are we obsessed with highlighting the perfect, polished sides of ourselves. We crave authenticity, and we expect our media to do the same. “Every new generation seems to define [authenticity] in a little bit of a different way,” says Jaime Klein Daley, vice president of
strategy at CBX, a brand agency in New York City. And perhaps the ugly is the new way for Generation Z and millennials to embrace every inch of who they are, wherever they are. Back in the early 2010s, some millennials were entering their late teens and twenties, with Gen Zers entering middle school and early high school. This was also around the time Instagram hit mainstream media, which became the newest platform for connecting with friends. If you wanted to influence a certain image of yourself, Instagram was the way to do it. Suddenly, our feeds were flooded with perfected camera angles and heavily edited posts of celebrities, brands—even ourselves. But it got boring. “When social media first came out it was all about the perfect aesthetic, the curated photos, the filtered feed. Then we all just got sick of it because it wasn’t real,” says Pia Velasco, fashion and beauty editor at HelloGiggles, a lifestyle brand for women. “When that happened people started making statements that they didn’t care what people thought of them They weren’t going to give into what others defined as beautiful.” When Instagram was born, the stage of life Gen Zers and millennials were experiencing at the time made sense for understanding how the app was used. Sure, both different stages of life at the time, yet marked with the same vulnerability and craving to influence their surroundings. Millennials were entering adulthood at the same time Gen Z started defining their identity—all during the cusp of social media. We craved purpose, so
PREFER REAL, UNFILTERED PHOTOS ON SOCIAL MEDIA THAN POSTS THAT YIELD TO PERFECTION
THINK WE SHOULD ALL EMBRACE AND SHOW OFF OUR FLAWS MORE
SAY THAT IT’S COOL TO WEAR CLOTHING THAT WAS ONCE CONSIDERED UGLY
THINK BRANDS OVER PHOTOSHOP THEIR PHOTOS
FEEL BOTHERED WHEN PEOPLE POST PHOTOS THAT MAKE THEIR LIVES LOOK PERFECT Statistics from Y Pulse Trends Q2 2019 Report
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we experimented with what we thought was meaningful and beautiful at the time—i.e. the perfect aesthetic. Now, we’ve had a bit more life experience and are realizing that the perfect aesthetic we once uplifted is actually total bullshit—but more on that later.
UGLY, BUT MAKE IT FASHION
Like most trends, the ugly aesthetic started making its claim to fame in fashion. “I think we’ve been seeing that, and the OG of all of this is the dad sneaker,” Velasco says. “A lot of it’s throwback, so bucket hats, mom jeans, which we all know are the most comfortable things in the entire world.” So what all falls under the category of ugly fashion? It’s chunky shoes and accessories, shapeless dresses, jeans with holes, stains or patterned patches, fanny packs, bold colors, mismatched prints, and so. much. more. And like Velasco mentions, it’s all oddly familiar. It’s classic ‘90s fashion, but we didn’t call it the ugly aesthetic when it made its debut. These fashion comebacks are nothing new. Velasco started seeing pieces like dad shoes and bucket hats make a comeback as early as five years ago. It came and went in the ‘90s, and it’s creeping its way back into markets because we love what it embodies. It’s comfortable fashion. Goodbye clean lines and minimalist silhouettes. Hello bold colors and chunky structures ready to make a statement. “I think this ‘ugly aesthetic’ is about sticking it to the status quo and expressing that individuality,” Velasco says. Starting with the OG of it all, as Velasco points out, the dad shoe started making a comeback in luxury fashion lines like Balenciaga, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton. The shoe made cameo appearances in their spring and fall fashion lines and runways starting in 2017 and 2018. Next, celebrities like Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid were spotted sporting their
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own dad sneakers with sporty fits, dresses, skirts—you name it. At first, some pegged it as obscure or unyielding, but as more and more fashion icons started creating their own spin on the undeniably comfortable trend, it blew up. “Before, people would wear strappy dresses with cute sandals and now the cool street style to wear a cute dress is with a pair of chunky dad sneakers,” Velasco says. “The comfort replaced the aesthetic and I think that’s here to stay because if you don’t want to wear strappy sandals or heels with dresses because sneakers are more comfortable, that’s a way of self-love and I don’t think that’s a trend. It started out like that online but I think it’s here to stay.” While pieces like fanny packs, animal prints, and chunky shoes may be trends on their own, the ugly aesthetic isn’t so much a trend as it is a new way of thinking.
THE BRANDS, THE INFLUENCERS, THE MEDIA, OH MY
The ugly is about embracing the unperfect, defying traditional beauty standards, and being transparent on and off social media. For beauty brands like Aerie, Dove, Glossier, and Olay, embracing a new standard of beauty is key. Rewind several years and traditional beauty standards for women included stick-thin figures, airbrushed skin, glossy hair, and well, everything was basically just expected to be as close to flawless as possible. And just like the perfect aesthetic came and went with Instagram, it got boring and became unacceptable to project the same flawless ideals in the beauty world. “[The ugly aesthetic] comes from the zeitgeist of body positivity and inclusivity zeitgeist which is especially important for [the millennial] demographic,” says Jay Sinha, associate professor of marketing at Temple University.
“THIS 'UGLY AESTHETIC' IS ABOUT STICKING IT TO THE STATUS QUO AND EXPRESSING THAT INDIVIDUALITY [...] THE COMFORT REPLACED THE AESTHETIC AND I THINK THAT’S HERE TO STAY.”
—PIA VELASCO
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“EVERYBODY WANTS EVERYONE TO BE REAL WITH THEM AND WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? THAT MEANS EVERYBODY IS LOOKING FOR A FEELING OF CONNECTION, OF BELONGING, A LACK OF BARRIERS BETWEEN ME AND ANOTHER PERSON.”
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—JAIME KLEIN DALEY
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American Eagle’s in-house brand Aerie was one of the first to adopt the body positivity movement in retail advertising. Since 2014, Aerie has supported a “no retouching” philosophy for models, and their #AerieREAL campaign continues to rally success. Contrast this to Victoria’s Secret, a lingerie retail giant, they have yet to include a more inclusive approach to their marketing—and consumers recognize it, too. According to CNBC Markets, in-store sales have been falling since 2016. And it’s likely due to their stale marketing approach. Now that Aerie and other lingerie brands like Adore Me and Third Love have fully embraced inclusive, no-retouching beauty campaigns, the status quo has been thrown out the window. No one’s buying into the perfect, sexy facade Victoria’s Secret refuses to adapt. “Victoria’s Secret is struggling because they propagate this image of beauty that most women think is unattainable,” Sinha says. Shaving brand Billie is another beauty company that continues to defy the old standard of women being perfectly hairless, delicate creatures in the face of advertising. Their ads feature women shaving full pits of hair to show that their razors actually remove just that—what a concept. The same rules go for social media. More and more we’re starting to see influencers and models like Emma Chamberlain, Jameela Jamil, and Ashley Graham embrace what it means to be 100 percent you. Scroll through Emma Chamberlain’s Instagram and you’ll see numerous posts of her in mismatched, sometimes baggy outfits while remaining completely natural. She doesn’t hide her acne, and she embraces her raw, goofy personality. Her profile photo is even a picture of her younger self grinning awkwardly. And it’s beautiful. Jameela Jamil and Ashley Graham embrace their own body positivity campaigns, too. Jamil even called out a
Kardashian for selling Flat Tummy Tea—a tea company that “supposedly” helps you lose weight—and people loved her for it. What’s more, new social platforms have even garnered success in the age of the ugly for embracing the same ideals we’ve been talking about all along. Take Tik Tok for example. We love it for the same reasons we loved Vine—it encourages users to be goofy and produce raw, unfiltered content. “Tik Tok is completely different because it’s based on an algorithm where it’s not so much about appearance as it is about creativity and putting a spin on things,” Daley says. “ ...You have this sort of short term pop of unpolishedness and authenticity where the premium isn’t on how great it looks but how interesting and different it is.” Still, it’s important to remember that posting to social media requires a level of calculation. We often think way too hard about what we’re going to post, second guessing ourselves out of fear of what people may think. We’re not perfect, and these feelings are natural. But the more we start to embrace content that flies in the face of perfection, the more accepting the world might become.
THE UGLY REFRESH
Behind the throwback fashion, the inclusive advertising campaigns, and social media, is a society asking more of what’s traditionally put in front of their faces. The fewer walls we build between who we are behind closed doors and what image we project to society, the more inclusive our world will become. Ugly is beautiful, and we’re craving it in all aspects of life. “Everybody wants everyone to be real with them and what does that mean?,” Daley says. “That means everybody is looking for a feeling of connection, of belonging, a lack of barriers between me and another person.”
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than
and
PEOPLE CLAIM THEY CAN’T SEE COLOR WHEN THEY REALLY CAN. THIS WRITER EXPLAINS THE IMPORTANCE OF CELEBRATING CULTURE IN BIG, IMPACTFUL WAYS. WORDS MADYSON SKLAR PHOTOS MICHAELA SPIELBERGER
A
mericans love their holidays. Our calendar year is organized monthby-month with designated days for celebrating our rich history. But sometimes it’s more of a show than an actual celebration. Take Black History Month, Hispanic Heritage Month, or Native American Heritage Month for example. For 30 or so days we’re prompted to sit down and reflect on the unique histories of different cultures. But
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it typically stops there. We move on with our lives and often wait until the next year to open up the designated page in the history book again. But just as we’ve adopted celebrations of LGBTQ+ Pride and Women’s History past their designated history months, so too should multicultural celebrations.
COLORBLIND LENSES Let’s be honest, it’s uncomfortable to talk about our differences. As humans, we’re trained to connect with people by searching for similarities or markers of familiarity. From a very young age we’re
conditioned to use this likeness to feel connected to the world around us, and as a result it has forced us to put on colorblind lenses that ignore our differences. So what are these colorblind lenses? It’s pretending that there’s no such thing as color or culture beyond the average White person. It’s failing to learn about culture and identity outside of our own. It’s placing a mute button on conversations about our differences to pretend as if all humans experience the same condition. More than anything, it’s racism. Take the movie, The Hate You Give for example. The Black female lead, Starr, carries on a conversation with her White
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“IF YOU DON’T SEE MY COLOR, THEN YOU DON’T SEE ME.” — STARR, FROM THE HATE YOU GIVE
boyfriend where he says he “does not see color.” Starr responds, “If you don’t see my color, then you don’t see me.” Our differences divide us because we like to think that placing everyone under the same experience will unite us. In reality, it’s doing the opposite and keeping us from celebrating the beauty behind color and culture.
THE FRAMEWORK OF THE BLINDERS
In Racism Without Racists: Colorblind Racism and the Persistence of Racial Inequality in America, Eduardo Bonilla-Silva discusses how colorblindness may not look like the violent forms of racism we’re used to learning about throughout history, but it’s racism nonetheless. It’s defined by subtle,
institutional, and nonracial practices. Bonilla-Silva uses the four frames of colorblind racism to explain the impact this mode of thinking can perpetuate by ignoring our fundamental culture differences as humans. Abstract liberalism is the first, which uses “ideas associated with political liberalism and economic liberalism in an abstract manner to explain racial manners.” For example, consider an all-White committee meeting deciding to explain the effects of the N-word to a group of Black colleagues. When the abstract liberalism frame is applied, the choice the committee is making—to have a discussion around a word they have no experience with— disregards any feelings their Black colleagues might experience having the majority group lead such a discussion.
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The next frame, naturalization, is the process of allowing White people to explain away racial phenomena by suggesting they are natural occurrences. In other words, naturalization supports the misperception that Black people are biologically drawn to other Black people, Asians to Asians, and so on. Ultimately this is not a biological choice, it’s socially constructed. The minimization frame goes further by suggesting that discrimination is no longer a central factor affecting minorities. And cultural racism, the final frame, relies on culturally based arguments to explain a minority’s place in society. Statements like “Blacks have too many babies,” or “Mexicans don’t care about education,” are just a few examples of this frame. “Discrimination is as much a part of today’s society as it was yesterday,” says Alexander Hines, director of diversity,
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equity, and inclusion for the College of Liberal Arts at the University of Minnesota. “Disparities and inequities still exist and are worse for indigenous and people of color; just look at the data. Voter suppression, redistricting, salaries compared to Whites, and educational attainment and let’s not talk about inherited wealth. Sometimes, today feels worse than yesterday.”
CULTURE DESERVES A PLACE IN SOCIETY
Moving forward, our first step in recognizing color is by celebrating culture. Immersing ourselves in the rhythm of the dances, understanding the meanings behind the art, learning about the history behind the food, and connecting with people outside of our
own identity are little ways we can start embracing our differences. Without this, we erase the lines that connect people to their culture. But be mindful, if the goal is to be a true ally, don’t limit these celebrations to designated heritage months only. Celebrating culture is not only important for learning about the differences between people, but it helps people feel connected and acknowledged for every inch of who they are. It moves us from simply being welcoming to being inclusive. “The brain shows when you are not reflected in a dominant society. It causes a lot of havoc and it interrupts your ability to feel like you belong,” says Dr. Shakti Butler, president and founder of World Trust Educational Services, Inc. “Belonging also has to do with whether or not you have a voice.”
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"THE BRAIN SHOWS WHEN YOU ARE NOT REFLECTED IN A DOMINANT SOCIETY. IT CAUSES A LOT OF HAVOC AND IT INTERRUPTS YOUR ABILITY TO FEEL LIKE YOU BELONG." — DR. SHAKTI BUTLER
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When we look in the history books, we get the narratives of old, White, men talking about cultures they haven’t experienced. They’re speaking over people who’ve lived their history firsthand. As a result, from a very young age students of color are missing personal narratives from their ancestors, and White students miss out on the importance of race and culture. Dismantling colorblind racism is a community responsibility. If we apply the cultural racism frame to our communities, we can see how stereotypes strangle people of color and how the media sometimes tightens the grip. Because of this lack of exposure to unfamiliar practices and ways of life, our classrooms and world as we know it will keep inclusivity at an arm’s length instead of embracing it in every step of life. “If a book features a character of color, folks will often discuss every aspect of the book except anything from a racial perspective,” says Maria McLemore, selfproclaimed activist in Saint Paul, Minn. McLemore uses The Hunger Games series as a clear example of how people missed an opportunity to discuss the character, Rue, from a racial perspective. “‘And most hauntingly, a twelve-year-oldgirl from District 11. She has dark brown skin and eyes, but other than that, she’s very like Prim in size’—that's how the book reads,” McLemore says. “Not only might such a discussion have helped a girl of color see herself in the literature, talking about her race and her district would have broadened the scope of story for White students. It says, ‘you see me’ in broader, inclusive ways.” When celebrating culture outside of your own, it’s important to be sensitive and respectful to the experiences around you. Without paying homage to a specific history or practice and accepting it as your own, the act of being inclusive can quickly turn into cultural appropriation, not appreciation. At the end of the day, it’s
a learning process. But that doesn’t mean we should ignore it out of fear of doing something the wrong way. Inclusivity starts with education. If you haven’t received much exposure to other cultures, start by learning about the history behind the music, food, gatherings, and fashions of cultures outside of your own. The more we can recognize the beauty in our differences, the less invisible society will become.
MOVING FORWARD, TOGETHER
If we fail to take off our colorblind lenses and act like we experience the same components of the human condition, we will normalize hostility toward oppressed groups. Dr. Shakti Butler explains, “We, as Black people, don’t always acknowledge that we need to understand the values of the other people of color in order to create a united front … We have to have Black pride but also communion with other people who have also been at the effect of the power dynamics or economic dynamics that run the US.” The youth are the ones we pave the way for and if we make too many zig zags in the road, rather than stay united, we won’t see any change. “I teach my children that it’s an honor to be Black, and Black isn’t defined by media nor society. We/ they/I define what Black is, and it’s good. They’re good, we good, and it’s all good to be Black even in a society that’s antiBlack,” says Dr. Marcellus Davis, director of equity and engagement for the White Bear Lake School District in Minn. Celebrating culture isn’t like celebrating Labor Day or Memorial Day. Sure, the months and days in the calendar year that make us pause and reflect on our world’s history are essential, but if we limit this celebration to one month a year, we’re missing the whole point. It’s more than a singular moment of reflection. It’s a way of life that deserves the same number of chapters in our history book.
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UNTOUCHED
beauty
IT’S TIME TO EMBRACE THE SKIN WE’RE IN AND STOP LETTING CULTURE DEFINE OUR BEAUTY. WORDS ANNIE PETERSON PHOTOS EMMA KERR
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oogle cellulite and the first few items to pop up are treatments to cure it. It’s normal to feel insecure about the imperfections that grace our skin, but why is something so human and natural something to be ashamed about? Cellulite is the lumps and dimples that surround the buttox, thighs, hips, and sometimes abdomen. It’s most common in women, and around 80 to 90 percent will experience it in their lifetime, regardless of their body type. And while we often think of cellulite as a weight issue, it’s way more genetic than we think. When fatty tissue pushes up against connective tissue, cellulite is more visible. These tissue structures differ for men and women, making it more visible in women because of how they store and process fat. Still, it can be hard to embrace something that doesn’t seem beautiful. “Even though we may logically ‘know’ that our imperfections are common, our thoughts are sneaky,” says Julie Smith, health and life coach in Urbandale,
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Iowa. “It’s these negative, erroneous, and often uninvestigated thoughts that keep us stuck, fuel anger, and unhealthy behaviors. When you believe these damaging, incorrect thoughts, you begin to act as if the lies are true.” It’s not just cellulite, either. Stretch marks are common in all the same places, but again it has nothing to do with weight. The hips, abdomen, and thighs experience the most growth throughout our lifetime, so it makes sense for our skin to stretch a bit over time. It’s a natural, bodily response to growing, not necessarily a result of gaining weight. Scroll through the internet looking for treatments and you’ll find scrubs, firming lotions, and massagers to help “cure” the lumps we call cellulite. There’s even professional treatments to tighten the skin when all else fails. But for what? Why should we be ashamed of something that’s genetically normal for almost every woman? While the creams, scrubs, and
treatments can diminish the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks, there is no proof that it fully cures it. Beauty advertising lives off of telling women what they need to change in order to sell products. They exploit our insecurities and show us “cures” to make us feel ashamed about letting it stick around. “Unfortunately, a woman’s self-image is often influenced by the unrealistic picture of beauty and attractiveness that’s been lifted up by our society,” Smith says. The question shouldn’t be what treatment to buy, rather why do you need treatment at all? At the end of the day, you determine what you do to your own body. But no one should change their appearance to meet the standards set by society, especially when it comes to a condition that is 100 percent normal and common. “Know that removing cellulite doesn’t change who you are,” Smith says. “You are so much more than your skin. So much more than what meets the eye.”
INPORN
HEALTH + SEX
CLUSIVE
SITES THAT OFFER REALISTIC AND DIVERSE ENTERTAINMENT ACROSS THE BOARD. WORDS ANNIE PETERSON ILLUSTRATION KATE SEGLER
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e all know the saying, you get what you pay for. It goes for just about anything— porn included. The hard truth about porn is that a lot of sites skip straight to the good stuff, without recognizing identities outside of the heteronormative script or actors with diverse backgrounds. What’s more, most performers for these sites are often mistreated. Thankfully, more ethical and feminist porn has started emerging. While they come at a cost, your money helps support performers and allows the makers to keep producing ethical films. Venture outside of Pornhub and explore these five ethical, feminist porn sites.
AFOURCHAMBEREDHEART.COM $9 PER MONTH Classified as realistic short films, the Four Chambers Project intermixes art and porn to create an experience for all to enjoy. Their active blog serves to educate viewers and offer transparent coverage of everything they produce. Choose from more than 60 film categories to help you satisfy every desire.
BRIGHTDESIRE.COM $23 FOR THE FIRST MONTH, $10 FOR MONTHS FOLLOWING More than just porn, Bright Desire aims to highlight the best parts of sex: connection, pleasure, and fantasy. Films promote a sex-positive experience and feature queer, non-heteronormative scenes to pleasure all audiences. All films feature real-life couples and some have even received awards at prestigious film festivals.
CRASHPADSERIES.COM $25 PER MONTH
QUEERPORN.TV $20 FOR FIRST FIVE DAYS, $27 FOR MONTHS FOLLOWING Not only does this site spotlight queer sex, it’s owned and directed by queer women. Their Youtube Channel offers a transparent view into the site by showcasing interviews with performers, and the site even has a tab dedicated to queer sex education. Plus—and this is a big one— there’s a small selection of entirely free films on QPTV, as a treat.
Crash Pad Series is an award-winning site that showcases the intricacies of queer sex. The site features films and shorts that contain a range of scenarios and storylines. Crash Pad prides itself in featuring all genders, sexualities, races, and body types.
EROTICFILMS.COM $12 PER MONTH Created by Erika Lust, an award-winning feminist pornographer, this site features a variety of content—from romantic storylines to kinky adventures. Here, you’ll find videos from out of the box categories like “vagitarian” and “sharing is caring.” Other sites created from Lust include XConfessions and Lust Cinema.
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YOUR DIET COULD BE CONTRIBUTING TO YOUR MENTAL HEALTH, FOR BETTER OR WORSE. WORDS CAITLIN CLEMENT PHOTOS MICHAELA SPIELBERGER
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ou are what you eat. Rather, you are what you don’t eat. As more diet trends circle the media, we’ve become so focused on what foods to eliminate with zero regard to how a lack of nutrients can affect our mental health. Food influences the body and mind, and it’s time we start nourishing our mental wellness before the physical. According to the Anxiety and Depression Association of America, 40 million adults are affected by an anxiety disorder. The US also leads the world in obesity rates according to the Centers for Disease Control. While dietary science is still in its infancy, scientists have started studying the connection between anxiety and obesity. When a diet consists of too much sugar and fat, it increases inflammation and limits essential nutrients from entering the body. Inflammation, as nutritionist Theresa Munkvold puts it, “is at the root of disease.” Inflammation also increases cortisol levels, aka the stress hormone, which can lead to weight gain, high blood pressure, and increased anxiety levels. While diet trends like Keto or Whole30 are better than having a burger and fries for lunch every day, they can still fall short of
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fueling the body with essential nutrients. As a result of minimizing the consumption of carbohydrates and grains, less B12 and fatty acids enter our stream. Which according to Munkvold, are the building blocks of the nervous system. As these “sexy” diet trends eliminate more and more food groups essential to feeling energized, it’s no wonder our mental health can take a hit. “We see trends in certain nutrients. When people live in a state of anxiety or stress, their pathways that have vitamin B12 or biotin are upregulated,” Munkvold says. Meaning, the longer someone is in a state of anxiety, the more nutrients their body needs to keep up. The bulk of dieting culture is a scam. There is essential food your body craves for fuel. And while you shouldn’t be eating 1,000 calories a day in fast food, the type of calories you consume is far more important than the number. If you prefer sticking to a diet to avoid indulging, Munkvold says the Mediterranean diet is the best for your body and mind. It focuses on whole foods high in vitamin B12 like healthy fats from foods like fish and olives. Colorful foods high in antioxidants are also high
on the list, which helps fight intestinal inflammation by neutralizing free radicals. And if you find yourself craving chocolate, or a celebration cocktail is in order, then by all means, indulge a little bit. It won’t be the end of the world as we know it. Eating is about learning to balance the foods you consume for a healthy body and mind, whether that’s sticking to your favorite diet or monitoring your daily habits. “Eating is a way we take care of ourselves,” Munkvold says. “It’s a self-care skill.”
“EATING IS A WAY WE TAKE CARE OF OURSELVES. IT’S A SELF CARE SKILL .” — THERESA MUNKVOLD
WORDS KATELYN FAREBROTHER ILLUSTRATION KATE SEGLER
PAIN RELIEVED
HEALTH + SEX
AT-HOME REMEDIES FOR HEALING ACHES AND PAINS THE ALL-NATURAL WAY.
O
ver-the-counter pain relief and medication is necessary for treating everyday aches and pains, but not all bodies respond well to these treatments. What’s more, some medications don’t mix well together, making it difficult to use over-the-counter relief like normal. The following remedies are at-home alternatives to help soothe pain the all-natural way. Disclaimer: Consult your physician if you have a serious and/or ongoing condition. These remedies are not meant to treat serious medical conditions.
SORE THROATS: LEMON + CAYENNE INGREDIENTS
JOINT PAIN: TURMERIC + CAPSAICIN INGREDIENTS 3 Tbsp. coconut oil 1 Tbsp. turmeric powder 1/2 tsp. capsaicin powder* *Handle with care. Capsaicin powder can burn and cause damage to skin and eyes. Capsaicin and turmeric are antiinflammatory agents that help calm aches and pains. Mix coconut oil, turmeric powder, and capsaicin powder to create a paste-like substance to rub on targeted areas. Rub lightly on skin. Let sit for a few hours as the spices work their magic.
NAUSEA: PEPPERMINT + GINGER INGREDIENTS
1 cup hot water 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 1 Tbsp. honey 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
2 cups hot water 1 one-inch piece of ginger root, peeled and grated ½ cup packed peppermint leaves, fresh or dry
Lemon juice, honey, and cayenne pepper is the ultimate trio for calming sore throats. The lemon juice and honey help relieve pain while the cayenne pepper fights bacteria. To make, boil one cup of water and mix with lemon juice, honey, and cayenne pepper. Sip on this concoction to help soothe your sore throat.
Peppermint helps calm nausea and relax stomach muscles while ginger strengthens the digestive system. To make your own peppermint ginger tea, boil 4 cups of water. Peel the ginger root with a spoon and grate with a fork until you have your desired amount, about 1/3 cup. Add to water and boil for about 10 minutes. Turn off heat and add peppermint leaves. Steep for 5-10 minutes and strain into a mug to serve.
MIGRAINES: GINGER INGREDIENTS 1 cup hot water 1 one-inch piece of raw ginger root, peeled and grated Raw ginger helps decrease inflammation in blood vessels and can help calm migrainerelated nausea. To make, boil water over medium-high heat. Peel the ginger root with a spoon and grate with a fork until you have your desired amount, about 1/3 cup. Add peeled ginger to water and boil for about 10 minutes. Use a washcloth to absorb the mixture once it’s cooled and lay across your forehead for 15 minutes. Raw ginger can be subbed for pure ginger essential oils.
ANXIETY: LAVENDER + JASMINE INGREDIENTS ½ cup castor oil 2 drops lavender oil 1 drop jasmine oil Lavender and jasmine oil can help calm the nervous system without the drowsy side effects. To make this mixture, combine oils in a glass bowl or jar for safekeeping. Use your fingertips to massage the mixture on your temples and the back of your neck. Not only do the oils smell great, their soothing effects take over almost instantly.
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A WOMAN’S DIRECTION DON’T OVERLOOK THESE FILMS—OR DIRECTORS. WE’VE ROUNDED UP SIX FILMS FROM ACROSS THE WORLD TO WATCH AT YOUR NEXT MOVIE NIGHT, ALL DIRECTED BY WOMEN. WORDS CAMERON BOLTON ILLUSTRATION KATE SEGLER
DRAMA
Pariah, directed by Dee Rees (US, 2011) A coming-of-age story with an entirely Black cast, this film follows a teenage girl as she navigates her sexual identity and deep-seated familial tensions. Director Dee Rees began writing Pariah as a short film during graduate school, which later went on to win the Audience Award at the Los Angeles Film Festival.
HISTORICAL
The Nightingale, written and directed by Jennifer Kent (Australia, 2018) An exploration of psychological trauma unlike any other, this film follows a young Irish convict on her quest for revenge in the Tasmanian wilderness. Director Jennifer Kent is an Australian writer and actress known for The Babadook, with The Nightingale serving as her second film.
COMEDY
Egg, directed by Marianna Palka (US 2018) When a get together between old friends and their husbands goes awry, an interesting debate about motherhood surfaces in this film. While its brand of low-key, dark comedy may not be for everyone, Egg offers a cast of complex characters and interesting viewpoints. Marianna Palka is a Scottish actress and writer known for her womencentric themes in TV and film.
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HORROR
Rabid, co-written and directed by Jen and Sylvia Soska (Canada, 2019) A remake of the 1977 original, Rabid follows a young woman after a motorcycle accident and surgery that leaves her with a new, unquenchable thirst for blood. Directors—and sisters—Jen and Sylvia Soska are best known for their horror films like Dead Hooker in a Trunk and American Mary.
SCIENCE FICTION
High Life, directed by Claire Denis (France, 2018) When a group of death-row criminals are sent on a scientific search in deep space, a survivor must work hard to keep him and his baby daughter alive. This film is director Claire Denis’ English language film debut who is best known for her themes in colonial West Africa where she grew up.
THRILLER
The Archer, directed by Valerie Weiss (US, 2017) After being sent to a juvenile detention hall for girls, a teenage archer must find a way to escape with another inmate. On the way, she discovers that things are not as simple as they appear. Valerie Weiss is an American filmmaker and director who has helped write for shows like Scandal and How to Get Away with Murder.
MUSIC + ENTERTAINMENT
Queering Sobriety YOU’VE HEARD OF GAY BARS, BUT WHAT ABOUT GAY BOOKSTORES? EXPLORE THE VARIETY OF SOBER, QUEER SPACES ACROSS THE MIDWEST. WORDS EMMA BRUSTKERN ILLUSTRATION KATE SEGLER
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ay bars are at the center of queer culture. But for a group disproportionately affected by substance abuse and addiction, some members of the LGBTQ+ community are looking for sober alternatives. Phoebe Conybeare, co-founder of the Chicago Queer Sober Social, first recognized the lack of sober queer spaces after she left the Chicago party scene. “I didn't want to be in a f*cking church basement, being ashamed of the fact that I didn't drink and I was queer,” Conybeare says. “I wanted to celebrate my identities without liquor.” After teaming up with co-founder Hollie Lambert, the two created the Chicago Queer Sober Social to reach sober queer folks across the city. Much to their surprise, after their first two events the duo connected with more than 100 people at both. The Chicago Queer Sober Social embraces spaces where people don’t need to be under the influence to celebrate their identities. “It’s about seeing through the lie that we need alcohol to foster connection, especially in our marginalized communities,” Conybeare says. Although sober queer spaces may not exist everywhere, Conybeare encourages people to start their own movement. If you’re looking for a sober space to make connections with other queer individuals, check out our recommendations for places across the Midwest.
STUDIOWERQ: HAZEL PARK, MI
An art studio that empowers artists of all gender identities and sexual orientations. Artists can take part in a variety of events like low-cost art education programs, lectures, art showings, open-studio sessions, and more. Check out one of their workshops and connect with other artists over a potluck meal.
THISTLE’S SUMMIT: MOUNT VERNON, IA
Traveling as a queer person can be stressful and potentially dangerous, which is why Thistle’s Summit is designed with queer people in mind. Relax in their Victorian-style home and beautiful grounds while having conversations about the queer experience over breakfast. As a special treat, visitors can also sign-up for horoscope readings by an in-house astrologer, or indulge in one of their signature sea salt chocolate chip cookies.
OUTWORDS BOOKS: MILWAUKEE, WI
Skip the night out and settle in with a book from Outwords Books Gifts & Coffee. Opened in 1933, this shop is one of the few remaining LGBTQ+ bookstores in the US. They offer a variety of LGBTQ+ books, magazines, greeting cards, and gift items that encourage their community to share in the importance of LGBTQ+ literature and history. To complete your experience, make sure to grab a warm beverage from their signature coffee bar.
QUEER CHOCOLATIER: MUNCIE, IN
Satisfy your sweet tooth and your need for community by treating yourself to a baked good at this queer-woman owned bakery. In addition, the shop offers chocolate tasting events and “gayyyme” nights for queer individuals to socialize with fellow community members. Regardless of how you identify, Queer Chocolatier is proud to provide indulgence for all.
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MUSIC + ENTERTAINMENT
THE EVOLUTION OF
ROCK ROLL
WORDS ALLAIRE NUSS PHOTOS JOE SHEEHAN
T
he end of 2019 brought about list-o-mania. Social media was flooded with rankings of the decade’s best movies, music, and everything in between. But it was Billboard’s decade-end chart for the top rock songs of the 2010s that stole the show. People on Twitter were furious—as per usual—because the top slots on the chart were stolen by bands that, well, aren’t really rock. For starters, the list was dominated by Imagine Dragons. The group owned the top three hits and claimed eight spots on the Top 50. Then came Panic! At the Disco, a former emo-pop band who switches genres every other album. Next was The Lumineers with their lullaby folk single “Ho Hey.” Portugal. The Man followed with their radio-perfect jingle “Feel it Still,” which sounds tailored for a Super-Bowl ad. The remainder of the list seemed just as scattered: Lorde and Hozier were lumped between the occasional rock veterans with the Foo Fighters and Muse sprinkled in like afterthoughts. I mean, the only “Disturbed” song was a Simon and
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Garfunkel cover…come on. Still, categorizing music has never been an exact science. And with the rock genre as broad as a bouncer’s shoulders, it makes sense for labels to get blurry. So, is alternative replacing old school rock as its heavyweight champ? Or maybe “real” rock is dead? With Billboard’s fuzzy ideology, it’s worth wondering if today’s definition of “rock” is a total reinvention of its meaning 10 years ago. Rock music has historically existed to push boundaries, not to be an overplayed back-track in a suburban mall. And yet, many of Billboard’s highlights are about as edgy as a Disney Channel original movie or an Abercrombie t-shirt. Just ask Stephen Tow, a history professor at Delaware Valley University who’s written multiple books on the genre’s phases: “[Rock] comes from a different place. It’s an emotional and primal kind of music. It’s just different.” Not only is rock visceral, it’s also sonically diverse, changing its tune with each passing decade. “Early on you could have said [rock had] a blues or country influence," Tow says. "People started taking
it all kinds of different directions, bringing in classical influences, folk influences, and later on hip-hop. So what makes a band like Linkin Park versus the Rolling Stones all classified as rock? I don’t know.” But this isn’t the first time we’re seeing old school rock change. Tow pointed to the late ‘80s when hair bands ruled the radio and commercialism was king. Musicians revolted and grunge was born from the Aqua Net ashes. The takeaway: rock as we know it exists in life cycles, and if this list signals a present low point, maybe we’re in for something great. “I was hoping that when Trump got elected the music would get really good,” Tow says. “Who knows, it still could.” In short, there’s no singular sound for what’s considered rock. Just because a song doesn’t sound like the CDs you grew up with doesn’t mean it can’t wear the label. Does disappointment in Billboard mean these aren’t great artists? Of course not. But it does signal an evolution: rock music today isn’t what it was 10 years ago, and we probably won’t recognize it in the decades to come.
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