LICENSEE INTERVIEW John Macleod the man behind Crabshakk talks to Susan Young

from DRAM May 2022

SUE SAYS Our publisher Sue pulls no punches

CRABSHAKK BOTANICS HAS JUST OPENED IN GLASGOW’S WEST END AND SUSAN YOUNG CAUGHT UP WITH JOHN MACLEOD AND HIS TEAM TO FIND OUT MORE.

What better way to interview John Macleod than sitting in the sun outside his newest venture, the Crabshakk Botanics, in Vinicombe Street. We first met when he launched the Crabshakk in Finnieston, or as John calls it the ‘wee shakk’. Wee it certainly is, unlike his newest eatery here in the iconic Botanics Garage which no doubt will be nicknamed the ‘big Shakk’. The original Crabshakk opened in 2009, and for the first six months it didn’t even have a sign on the door. But when you described it to anyone you just said “It’s across from the Ben Nevis.” In fact the Ben Nevis had the restaurant’s menu behind the bar – as it also was the waiting room for a table. It was a success from day one. Says John, “The wee shakk always had a bit of fairy dust.” It certainly did, and soon became a favourite with seafood lovers, including myself. John and wife Lynn’s Crabshakk was central in the creation of the ‘Finnieston Strip’. Their newest incarnation John says “is a child of the pandemic.” He explains, “If it hadn’t been for the pandemic we wouldn’t be here. About a month into the pandemic I had the Finnieston Green idea thing going on (an idea to pedestrianise part of Argyll Street and cover with a roofed glasshouse.) Looking back it was a lot of fun working on the idea. For six or seven weeks I messed about with it, none of us knew what was going to happen next, and it all felt a bit weird, but this kept me amused. We were all at home and friends gave me hi-level consulting advice for nothing... and the advice came from all over the world. However the idea inevitably failed.” He continues, “Then I was walking in the West End one day and I saw this unit was empty. Initially I just thought about doing a pop-up for six months because, at that time, I didn’t know when, or if , the Crabshakk was ever going to open again. My idea was to put a food wagon on the ramp and put in 20/30 covers in the window. “I called the agent, and we got talking, and then being an architect I suppose I could see all the possibilities... and one thing led to another. However, if I had known then how well the Finnieston Crabshakk was going to bounce back, I wouldn’t have done it. “It has definitely been very challenging, but we are over that now, and I am very happy with the way it has turned out. The new Shaak really did come out of necessity rather than desire. I don’t think we would have done a restaurant of this size, had the pandemic not happened and this opportunity hadn’t presented itself. But it is a great site and the West End continues to thrive.” He also believes that the pandemic has reinforced the importance of hospitality to the public. Says John, “The public have fallen back in love with it. They want to have coffee with their friends, and meet up for expensive and inexpensive meals. I think this two year period, when we couldn’t go out, has reminded people what they missed. I’m surprised at how busy we have been since we re-opened.” John, as he said, is an architect and he first came to Glasgow to study at the School of Art some 45 years ago, from his home on Lewis. He still retains many of his friends from these days and one is Peter McGurn, whose artist wife Rita created the scribble that now adorns the entrance wall of the Crabshakk Botanics. John explains, “We were on holiday in France and she just scribbled the picture on a piece of paper, and when we came back I used it at Table 11, which was next to the Crabshakk. She died six years ago, but her daughter Rosie, also a well-known artist, has now curated the scribble for us in neon. A further connection is that Rita’s granddaughter Lily Brown is also the General Manager. There is also a connection between Head Chef David Scott and Manager Tom Jukes. The two met as babies – Tom’s parents Peter and Vivien Jukes took on the The Cellar in Anstruther 40 years ago, and invited David’s grandparents, who owned The Ship in Elie, to the launch along with daughter Elspeth Scott. Soon after Vivien and Elspeth both had sons - Tom and David, and throughout the ladies remained friends and their boys grew up together. David went to work at The Cellar when he was in his teens and it was Peter, Tom’s dad, from whom he learnt his fish cookery. At the same time Tom was honing his front of house skills at The Cellar too. The two boys then left to work in Glasgow. first for Ronnie Clydesdale at the Ubiquitous Chip and then David went to Brian Maule’s before joining the Crabshakk 13 years ago. Says John, “David was my very first signing.” Tom also joined the wee Crabshakk and his remit now covers both venues, with colleague Nancy Simpson holding the fort on a day-today basis.. Says John, “I know who has made our business a success and that’s the team. Lynn and I love having the Crabshakk. Seafood is our thing. It is all we know, but it is the staffing, resourcing and the treatment of staff that’s the bit we really enjoy. And one of the things that Lynn and myself have always been keen on is to encourage the next generation into the business, and that is what this is all about.” “We have a very strong core team and on our opening trial night

HOW FRIENDSHIP DRIVES THE CRABSHAKK

we got a great compliment – one person said , ‘It feels like it has been running for years.’ That is down to the fact that the team Lily, Tom, David and the supervisors, have been working on this project for months. I caught up with John the day after the first opening and as the team came in to work, Lily, Tom and David. Each and every one was grinning from ear to ear. They may have been slightly tired, but every one was buoyed up by the success of the previous night. John said, “That didn’t happen because we got lucky. Lily interviewed 17 staff initially and then a further 10 and the staff she took on had three days of intensive training before the soft openings.” The team certainly pulled it off and it t was actually a privilege to be there when they came in for their shift and greeted each other, because you could just see how much the success of the previous night meant to them all. Said Lily, “Having a good team is everything. The core team here is built on friendship and we all get what we are trying to do and we are all loosely connected in some way. I think it also helps that we are all a bit older and have been in hospitality a long time. “During the pandemic loads of people in hospitality reconsidered their career. Because we were targetted, and had to close, the security of the job disappeared. In a way though it has been a positive because employers across the board have had to look at how they are treating staff and their pay. John and Lynn didn’t need a pandemic to do that – they already had that ethos, which is why we retain staff, and why people want to come and work with us.” Said John, “The team – David and Tom, Lily here and Nancy Simpson at the wee Shakk, reinforce the opportunities there are in hospitality. There is a lot of money coming across the counter, it is a serious business and I think people shouldn’t underestimate what a great quality work opportunity it is compared to working in many other work environments. “I am an architect, but I believe nothing can beat the experience of hospitality. You can work with great pals and no day is the same, and you can have great craic and share the ups and downs of a busy night. Here I am in my mid-60’s and I realise the workplace basically spins your life out. It makes other things possible ,and a happy workplace gets people engaged, and it is a good thing when you can’t wait to get to work. That is everything.” Certainly the team at the Crabshakk are genuinely enthused. Says Lily, “We manage to retain staff and we get quality staff because they are looked after, and are part of the family and that is down to John and Lynn.” She added, “I have been part of opening restaurants before but not from a shell. It was great to work through the process and to be able to work with John. We wanted to create a space that would work for service, and it does. If you could have seen it last night – it was just buzzing and so smooth. That’s what we wanted to achieve.” Head Chef David also arrived during our chat. He too was smiling. John teased him, “I don’t know why you have been so worried for the past six months.” David smiled, “I know. It went so smoothly but when you have this to work with it is just great and the fact that the kitchen is the size of the wee Crabshakk is also amazing. The pressure was delivering when you have given us so much. I wanted to show you that it was worth it.” David has also extended the menu slightly from the wee Shakk, he says, “There are a few additions to the menu here. We have added Lobster Risotto and Lobster Thermidor, we didn’t have this on the menu before but people always asked for it, and we have promoted Lemon Sole off the specials menu after 13 years! We also have a wee section that is non-fish and a vegan section too.” The ‘big’ Shakk has 100 covers, a long pewter bar where you can sit at, a south facing front room, and a back area, seating 80, which has more of a moody restaurant feel. John collaborated on the design with Jim Hamilton of Graven. Says John, “He is my kind of guy. Both of us have spent a lot of time travelling and we have done our fair share of sitting scribbling ideas on pads in bars and restaurants. He was very respectful, and very encouraging, very empathetic to what I wanted to do.” (See design feature for more). As to the future, John smiles, “I always expect us to have a share of Crabshakk Finnieston and the Botanics but we will now see how all this develops. But Lynn and I will still be coming in even when we have zimmers! I would hope that people think we have done a good job at establishing two really good fish restaurants. I just want people to say ‘if you are in Glasgow pop into the Crabshakk and when you are there you will have a great time!’ They certainly will. I can vouch for that.

CRABSHAKK

THE BOTANICS, VINICOMBE ST, GLASGOW

DESIGN FOCUS BY SUSAN YOUNG

There's now a big sister to Finnieston's 'wee' Crabshakk on Vinicombe Street, and it is already a runaway success. Owned by John and Lynn Macleod, the new 100 cover bar restaurant, on the site of the listed Botanics Garage, has, said architect John, “Been one of my most challenging projects ever.” John collaborated with Jim Hamilton of Graven, to come up with a design that both complements the building and carries on the ethos of the original Crabshakk although this is a totally different experience from the wee Crabshakk. John says, “From day one I was pretty clear about the possibilities for the space - for instance, I wanted a long bar and knew where the kitchen was to be. Jim Hamilton and I had some really good conceptual chats and he helped me with a lot of technical issues. We had an excellent contractor in the shape of BJM and Sculpture Studio. Simon Hopkins and Pat Moran in particular are all over the unit – the timber, bar and metalwork. Neil Hickey of BCC kept the project on track” However, he smiles, “I was always going to keep my hands on the tiller, but it was definitely challenging,possibly the most problematic job I have ever done.” The aim of the design was to create a walk-in, casual feel at the front window which acts as a holding area before or even after dinner, but of course you can have the full menu throughout the restaurant. This is certainly what has been achieved. When you walk through the door – you can immediately see the venue is all on one floor. There is a sunny front room on the left, due to the fact the venue is south facing. You can sit at a long wooden mantel which looks out onto the street and watch people go by or at high long tables made of reclaimed wood and black steel which seat eight to 10. Reclaimed wood lines the back wall in the front room and fresh greenery adds colour – incidentally, this has been curated by Karen Harvey, who is soon to open a plant and flower shop adjacent to Crabshakk and she has also been responsible for unusual Scandinavian candle holders and other furniture for the

DESIGN FOCUS: CRABSHAKK BOTANICS

venue. This front room will cater for walkins, which will also be welcome at the bar. While the front room is sunny, the brightness dims as you walk further into the restaurant. Says John, “ The sunshine is the front room, then there comes a dark, moody restaurant in behind. The daylight gradient falls quite quickly – but the mirrors at the back reflect the sunlight. It's a bit like sitting in the sun in a cafe and then you go inside to go to the bathroom and it is much darker. But you know that if you come back later this would be where you would be. The restaurant here has got that happening. I did think the sunshine would be deeper – but the more I covered the white box with raw black steel it became a quarter sunshine and three-quarters, not sunshine. Jim and I did reflect on this.” Key design elements have been used throughout – reclaimed wood, white Corian, black raw steel smoked mirrors, exposed brickwork and pewter. And of course elements of the original listed garage are visible in the brightly painted yellow and white steel pillars and exposed roof and the listed frontage. The restaurant has a polished concrete floor, the gantry is all black raw steel and glass, while the bar is a two-level bar with a pewter top accompanied by bar stools, upholstered in olive green leather. The walls are clad in reclaimed wood, while the tables in the restaurant are all white Corian, with pin spotlights – created by long vertical black lights which hang discretely over the tables, says John, “The lighting on the Corian gives the impression of white table cloths.” There is not an abundance of artwork but what artwork there is has stand out appeal – from the original neon artwork curated by artist France-Lise Rose McGurn from a sketch by her late mother, Rita, to the outline of St Monan's, where Head Chef, David Scott, hails from. There is another of the harbour on Lewis, where John was born. Both are backlit with blue neon. There is also another piece of abstract polished stainless steel by Evy Mackenzie to go on the ceiling. The lighting, sound and temperature are all controlled with the help of technology. The flexibility allows John and his management team to control these aspects from their phones. The temperature controls are certainly appreciated by Head Chef, David Scott, who presides over the spacious, well-designed kitchen. He worked with Mark Rodden at RH Morton and Andy Mitchell, who has been acting as a consultant in the earlier stages and now kitchen manager. Says David, “The space is great, and I love the fact that you can see the whole restaurant from the kitchen. You can just look up and see everyone eating and drinking. There is not a bad seat in the house.” General Manager, Lily Brown, also loves the layout, “In terms of running the restaurant – because it is all on one level - it is very visual. This allows everyone to have their own clear section and it is very easy to see what is going on. Although my favourite space is probably the front room. On the opening night, it was just buzzing and everyone looked beautiful.” John too loves the front room but on the launch evening, he enjoyed the whole experience. It was just as he had been endeavouring to create. He says, “I was sitting watching everyone from the side across to the whole bar and kitchen wall as we were just about to wrap up service. It looked so smooth - a pretty convincing show I thought."

THE BRASSERIE ORANMOR

GREAT WESTERN ROAD, GLASGOW DESIGN FOCUS: BY PENNY DEVLIN

The Brasserie at ÒranMór in Glasgow’s West End has been given a refresh and has just re-opened as a restaurant with Chef Dylan Morris in charge. Owner Colin Beattie, who has a keen interest in art, has made it a feast for your eyes. He says, “The theme or backdrop to the room is Vienna Secession an art movement that is closely aligned to art nouveau. I would love this room to be recognised like the Willow Tearooms is for Charles Rennie Mackintosh.” The predominant blue backdrop sets off the curated artwork beautifully. While the newly updated seating areas, also in blue, give the restaurant a more luxurious feel. Brian Donnelly and Ranald McColl re-imagined the Brasserie with new lighting, new Carrara marble-topped tables, upgraded seating, and beautifully executed murals on the walls. Says Colin, “Ranald and Brian have done the artistic work. Around

the seated area next to the bar we have a floral swirl which looks very natural. Ranald has also created a spectacular rose wall. “We also have lots of French prints which marry well with our Gesso panels above the booths which have been created by Sheila Tandy - they depict the loves of Robert Burns. And the booths nearest the bar also benefit from beautiful new glass panels which help with drafts. The bar remains as it was, Colin explains, “The original bar top came from The Buttery and is solid old Carrara marble which is three-tier thick. But we did restore the floor.” It’s not just the Brasserie which has received a make-over its toilets have too. Now the fifth-floor rest rooms feature William

Morris wallpaper. Collin adds, “This room was always our wee secret, but I think it lost its way over the years, becoming more of a late-night bar than a restaurant but now we are re-establishing the Brasserie as a restaurant and have new Head Chef Dylan Morris, who has previously worked at the likes of Six by Nico and One Devonshire. He is working closely with our new General Manager Gary Grant.” The Brasserie is just the start of the refurbishments planned for ÒranMór. The North Garden is being opened up and will be licensed, the John Muir Room will be getting a fresh look and the nightclub downstairs is also to get a makeover.

IT IS A LISINI LIFE

BY SUSAN YOUNG

Lisini Pub Co, the family-owned hospitality business has certainly been on a journey over the last two years. However, the business which was founded more than 50 years ago by Kathy and Harry Hood, was weathering the pandemic well considering all the circumstances. But in a further blow Managing Director Lisa Wishart suffered a brain bleed just after Christmas on a zoom call with her team. She had taken some time for a family holiday and returned to the news that the Scottish Government had effectively cancelled all Hogmanay celebrations across the country. This led to the decision to close two of the company’s venues, The Croft and Dalziel Park Hotel, for six weeks, despite the fact there was no furlough. Her first call on returning on holiday was to discuss how to look after the company’s 287 staff members. She wanted to ensure that the staff were not compromised in any way. But minutes into the Zoom call, Lisa had the sudden bleed and was rushed to the hospital and into intensive care. Ater an incredibly worrying time Lisa rallied and all credit to the Lisini management team Siobhan Edwards, Nicky and Grant Hood and Lynda McGraw who steadied the ship and navigated the business over the following months during Lisa’s recovery, which is ongoing. Says Siobhan, “We are forecasting that people’s attitude to hospitality is on the whole positive and that trade should be strong this year, albeit not as profitable.” Siobhan and the management team have been concentrating on the Lisini team - with a real focus on its people and recruitment Says Siobhan, “The 3 R’s – Retention, Recruitment and Reward are crucial.” She continues, “We took all our managers on a Business Broadcast Day to Hampden to give an update on Lisa, communicate the financial results of 2021/2022 which were good considering tough trading conditions. A remarkable result, particularly as 30% of our business was (and is) still not fully open. “We also communicated the challenges ahead, financially and otherwise and the strategic vision for the Company. “We rounded off the day with dinner at Michael Bergson’s new Bucks Bar in the Southside. – a great day out was had by all. “This was followed by our twice cancelled Lisini Ball which we renamed #SpringFling. Just under 250 staff members attended. The whole point of the #SpringFling was to reward the staff for their herculean efforts. It was also to let them know collectively about Lisa. “We brought forward the Queens Jubilee Bank Holiday, closed our venues early on Mon 25th and are fully shut on Tuesday 26th April. Everyone is also getting an extra day of paid leave and a cash bonus to all regardless of the length of service.” She continues, “The next stage, we hope, will be to continue our bounce back. We have lots of plans, which includes transforming parts of the business. “We have also just launched our Lisini Life campaign. This is an internal initiative to set about changing and improving the culture of Lisini Pub Company for our people for the better forever! “We want to show our incredible people how much we appreciate and value their hard work. “We are now looking for volunteers from all areas of the business, who are passionate about their workplace and colleagues, to become members of the Lisini Life team. “The focus of the team will be on delivering the overarching principles of the Company people strategy, such as communication and engagement, employee values, development, recognition and employee wellbeing. We can’t wait to see the amazing changes the team implement.” As Lisa recovers there is no doubt that the entire team is doing their utmost to ensure that when she does return the business will be flourishing.