Kruger National Park

an insider’s guide

By: Daniella Schoeman

As far back as I can remember we have been visiting Kruger National Park regularly. At times we would be there annually. Other times, there were years between visits as we explored other game reserves or countries. No matter what, I always returned.

The recipe for the perfect trip is usually the same; homemade padkos (road trip food) and healthy competition to spot each of the Big 5 first. But the experience is always different. For most South African children trips to the Kruger National Park is almost like a rite of passage.

The vast expanse of wilderness and unpredictable nature of wildlife encounters tend to create lasting memories. Kruger National Park is a national treasure and intrinsic part of the South African psyche. As the largest game reserve in Africa, it is almost the same size as Belgium. Kruger National Park spans two provinces, Mpumulanga and Limpopo. This results in various landscapes that change dramatically as you travel from south to north. The original park has expanded over time as neighboring game farms joined the park and removed the border fences. These areas are now private concessions of the park with their own entrance gates, conservation fees, and game lodges but still connected to the larger park. All together this makes up what is known as the greater Kruger National Park.

On our last trip to Kruger National Park, in an attempt to experience all the park has to offer, we spent 10 days exploring. Due to the massive size of the park, we were still unable to see every part. The main park is divided up into three distinct sections. The newer private concessions can be found along the southern and western borders of the park. To the north, the park borders both Mozambique and Zimbabwe. Southern Kruger is perfect for first-time visitors as spotting all of the Big 5 is likely. Central Kruger is known as Big Cat country and the chances of spotting lions sleeping in the grasslands or leopards walking in the road are high.

Northern Kruger is much more remote and the game density is lower than other regions, although rare sightings such as wild dogs is possible. We explored different sections depending on where we were based. When heading towards other areas of the park, there is the option to drive around Kruger National Park. However, we found the road conditions to be poor, so we drove through the game reserve instead. Being able to take our time, enjoy the scenery and wildlife made the long drives pleasant. The park is immense and there is no cellular reception inside, so be sure and purchase a park map when entering.

Although there are a number of rest camps within the main park, they tend to be budget options. For a more comfortable trip, we opted for a range of accommodations from selfcatering luxury to super luxurious all within the private concession areas. Our first two nights were spent on the western side of Central Kruger in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve. We stayed at Sir Richard Branson’s private game lodge, Ulusaba Rock Lodge. The beautiful luxury lodge is built on a mountain top and our suite had the most unbelievable views. We were impressed with the knowledgeable guides, friendly staff, and superb gourmet food. Next, we headed to Manyeleti Game Reserve in the western section of Southern Kruger. We stayed at Tintswalo Safari Lodge which is located on the banks of a seasonal river and usually has a local herd of elephants nearby to welcome guests. Each suite is decorated in a luxury colonial style and named after a 19th-century explorer. The Kingsley Suite (Mary Kingsley) we stayed in has a private deck and plunge pool and we had many animals visit to drink water from the pool. Next, we headed up to Balule Game Reserve in the western part of Northern Kruger. We stayed at Ezulwini River Lodge which had gorgeous views out over the Olifants River. The name means places of paradise and when we saw the spacious suites, excellent food, and great location, it sure felt like paradise. Finally, we headed to Mjejane Game Reserve in the southernmost part of Southern Kruger. We stayed in a luxury selfcatering private lodge called Elephants’ Corner (AirBnB) and as promised had elephants pass by the property daily. Self-catering lodge stays in the bush is a truly South African way of visiting Kruger National Park and a fun experience.

Kruger National Park is truly the best place to spot the Big 5, the Little 5 and everything in between. During our 10 day trip, we had the most remarkable sightings. We spotted more leopards than I have seen in years. This included a female sleeping under a tree while her cub played in a nearby. We also had the privilege of watching another female eat her kill in a tree while surrounded by scavenging hyenas on the ground below. One morning, we arrived just as a pride of lions attempted their last hunt at a watering hole before resting for the day. We watched as a herd of elephants grazed and their young ones played. Our sighting included rhino, buffalo, hippos, giraffes, cheetah and much more. Each of the luxury lodges offers twice-daily game drive in their safari vehicles. Although sightings are not guaranteed the expert guides and trackers ensured that we were treated to the most extraordinary wildlife scenes. Days are spent in the time-honored tradition of an African safari – early morning game drives are followed by a lazy day of rest, then an afternoon game drive that segues into sunset drinks before a night drive back to camp. And there is always plenty of food that is just too tasty to decline.