Antigua & Barbuda

A Tale of Two Islands

BY: MICHAEL TREMBLAY

Even before we embarked on a tropical odyssey to Antigua and Barbuda, our considerable excitement was tempered by a touch of unfamiliarity. While we knew we could expect the warm sun, soft sands, and azure waters typical of every Caribbean haven, coming to terms with the true identity of the destination would have to come from our adventures on Antigua, the larger and more developed of the two islands, and our forays to Barbuda, its wilder, sparsely inhabited neighbor.

What we found in Antigua and Barbuda was not one exceptional island, but two: each distinct in character but so alike in their magnetic charm and breadth of profoundly memorable experiences. At once both rustic and lavish, adventurous and tranquil, the eclectic range of the attractions, accommodations, and excursions available in Antigua and Barbuda stands out as this perfect pair’s greatest virtue. Offering something for travelers of all ages and inclinations, Antigua and Barbuda is a dynamic paradise with a novel allure that defies our endeavors to summarize and chronicle it, despite our best efforts to do so for you below.

From the moment we arrived at Antigua's V.C. Bird International Airport, we were overwhelmed by the reception we received from the locals. Even beyond the taxi drivers and hotel staff, it seemed as if there was always a smiling face willing to guide us to our next stop or recommend an entirely new one. The genuine quality of our welcome speaks greatly to the pride the locals have for their idyllic home and to their resilience and optimism in the wake of economic challenges presented by the COVID-19 pandemic.

It was from these organic interactions with the enthusiastic inhabitants of Antigua’s colorful capital of St. John’s that we gained an understanding and an appreciation for the country’s history. Antigua, the “older brother”, is a former British colony and sugar plantation of some 90,000 people originally inhabited by the indigenous Arawaks, bestowed its modern name by Christopher Columbus in the late 1400s. Antigua’s stunning coastline is rimmed with coral reefs brimming with endangered sea turtles and parrotfish; its tropical headlands punctuated by volcanic rock formations, breezy cliffside villages, and the (relative) cosmopolitan bustle of scenic St. John’s.

Barbuda, the “younger sister” lies 40 km north of Antigua, its population of fewer than 2,000 mostly cloistered around the village of Codrington, a colonial residential center over three centuries old established on a lagoon. Unspoiled by modern development, Barbuda’s highlands feature coastal caves and compelling cliff-faces, its famous lagoon serving as the region’s largest colony of the beautiful and well-named Magnificent Frigatebird. Barbuda is regularly accessible by ferry boat or water taxi from Antigua, with local flights between the two islands also available. Expect a trip of roughly one and a half hours, if you opt to sail the cerulean waves.

In the Lap of Luxury

That Antigua and Barbuda’s fascinating history is less-known even to frequent visitors of the region is a shame, but also perhaps reflective of the overshadowing effect of the islands’ reputation for excellence in accommodations. As we traveled the breadth of Antigua, it seemed as if each perfect, white sand beach we passed was host to its own collection of oceanfront cabanas or overlooked by a smattering of hilltop hideaways. Larger resorts like Hermitage Bay, COCOs, and the Royalton constitute Antigua’s compelling portfolio of all-inclusive properties, impressing with prime beach access, extensive spa and dining amenities, and the impeccable blending of an authentic Caribbean design aesthetic with the latest in modern luxuries.

For our part, we were hosted by the breathtaking Jumby Bay, a 300-acre private retreat on Long Island, two miles off the coast of Antigua proper. Swaying palm trees ushered us into the private world of Jumby Bay from the very first moment we stepped foot on the quaint wooden dock. A tour of the expansive grounds revealed the property’s full splendor: multiple infinity pools and restaurants, a massive fitness center and spa, and the pristine ivory beaches at Pasture Bay, ready to accommodate seekers of suntans and aquatic adventures alike. The striking White Egret we spied en-route to our lodgings was an arresting sight trumped only by the tasteful sophistication and elegant nautical stylings of our beach side suite, complete with plush white linens, a personal soaking tub, and an outdoor garden.

We can only assume that the bliss we experienced at Jumby Bay can be matched during a stay at any of the other luxury resorts, boutique or otherwise, on the islands. Even Barbuda, in its wild and natural glory, can assert a claim to superlative pockets of luxury with properties like its Barbuda Belle: an incredibly exclusive getaway comprising six charming wooden bungalows within the sandy heart of Codrington Lagoon Park. Accessible only by boat, the Belle is a favorite of travelers who crave privacy without compromising on comfort, as well as proximity to the reptiles, birds, sea turtles, and lobsters who make Barbuda their home.

Dining on the Dunes

There is a staggering amount of gourmet dining options in Antigua and Barbuda, spoiling even the most frivolous foodie for choice. When we searched for the classic tropical fare that typifies Caribbean cuisine, we found it: delicious Johnnycakes, seafood chowder, fish cakes, and grilled spiny lobster, served up fresh and aromatic and brought directly to our beach loungers. There’s nothing quite like enjoying fresh seafood in direct proximity to its source, a local liquid favorite like English Harbour rum or Wadadli in hand, as you gaze contentedly into the endless blue.

Rather recently, the gastronomy of Antigua and Barbuda has embraced a trend of incorporating global flavors. With historical influence from the British, French, Spanish, and indigenous Carib, it is perhaps natural that its cuisine would move to reflect its diverse origins. The aptly named Sheer Rocks, which sits atop a cliff at the Cocobay resort, is one of the restaurants leading this tantalizing renaissance. Led by award-winning Chef-deCuisine Simon Christey-French, Sheer Rocks serves up a locally sourced Mediterranean-style tasting menu complete with lamb shank, beetroot tartare, and seared yellowfin tuna. The Foie Gras Parfait was velvety and savory, melting on the tongue while stimulating the taste buds with spicy notes from the mustard seed.

Elsewhere in Antigua, you’ll find palate-pleasing gourmet offerings at most of the restaurants that adjoin the major resorts. Carmichael’s at Sugar Ridge deserves special mention, boasting a ‘lavish cabana’ aesthetic and situated at the highest point of the resort, providing sweeping views of the hills and sea. Signature dishes like the Lobster medallions and bouillabaisse are cooked to perfection with herbs and spices that reflect Carib cooking traditions. If you’re famished from a day of fun on Barbuda, seek out Nobu, the Peruvian-Japanese sushi fusion restaurant realized through a partnership by Robert De Niro and Chef Nobuyuki Masuhisa. This internationally acclaimed eatery specializing in seafood is a natural fit for Barbuda, which boasts incredible seafood of its own, and elevates the dining experience even higher by consequence of its location on one of the island’s white powder beaches.

What to see, what to do, and where to do... nothing

While our time in Antigua and Barbuda has led us to conclude that it is a destination whose virtues must be experienced rather than relayed, we’ve shared a few of our highlights below, dividing them by island to make sure each receives their deserved due.

Antigua

Curious guests with an appreciation for history will want to first take time to embark on a walking tour of St. Johns, and then make a beeline for Nelson’s Dockyard. Named after Royal Navy Admiral Horatio Nelson, this UNESCO-recognized world heritage site has a storied history dating back to the 18th century. The hills surrounding this painstakingly restored site are full of pleasant hiking trails that wind around venerable colonial forts. The nearby lookout of Shirley Heights may be the best place to catch the sunrise (or sunset) on the island, stunning us with its sweeping, panoramic vantage over English Harbour. Devil’s Bridge National Park, just beyond the village of Willikies, is our pick for the most awe-inspiring natural site on Antigua, so-named for its limestone sea bridge carved over millions of years by geysers and blowholes.

Standard Caribbean fare like cruising, kayaking, and duty-free shopping aside (all of which we heartily recommend, of course), Stingray City was the breakaway excursion of our trip. Traveling to the warm shallows of Seatons Village, we were ushered into the water with snorkel gear and encouraged to touch, feed, and swim with incredibly majestic stingrays. Our team was collectively astonished at the intrepid and friendly nature of these animals, who actively sought to interact with the humans visiting their colorful reef home. The fun didn’t end when we returned to dry land: we opted to book a combination tour and got up close with vivid parrots, giant (truly, giant!) tortoises, as well as a host of aquatic creatures on a mangrove snorkeling tour.

Barbuda

You can’t leave Barbuda without marveling at the Frigatebirds. The darlings of both ornithologists and more casual birdwatchers like ourselves, these sizable seabirds made an indelible impression with their inflatable crimson throat sacs. Perched on small sand rises, the males provided an intense visual contrast to the brackish waters of the lagoon, their mating coalescing into a frenzied, yet captivating orchestra of a thousand red balloons. Watching the lagoon’s inhabitants click, dance, and ‘drum’ (as our guide called it) their way through the ritual of mating was a spectacular natural drama that must be seen and heard to be believed.

For something a little quieter but no less stimulating, we recommend a trip to the cliffside caves of Two Foot Bay National Park. While each cave here has an interesting story to tell, make Indian Cave your priority: as the only known cave on Barbuda with genuine Arawak petroglyphs, it’s one of the best ways to connect with the original inhabitants of the island on a visceral and visual level.

Snorkel, dive, swim and sail, and hike. Barbuda is a natural wonderland that should be explored in all its forms through whichever physical manner you favor. That being said, we can’t in good faith publish a list of recommended Caribbean excursions without including horseback riding on the beach. Luckily, Barbuda excels in this regard as well: the luxe Lighthouse Bay Boutique Resort captured our hearts as on a cross-island gallop across the island’s beaches and through its shallows. Our spirited yet friendly steeds seemed to bear us with enthusiasm, making light work of Barbuda’s varied terrain and fearlessly wading into gentle, warm waters up to our waists. For making us feel like the cover models of our own romance novel, horseback riding comes highly recommended.

A parting recommendation: as any veteran vacationer to the Caribbean would likely affirm, sometimes time spent on vacation is best spent doing nothing at all. The laid-back tempo of life in the region offers a much-needed escape from hectic schedules and urban staccato. With “a beach for every day of the year”, as the tagline goes, we recommend searching for a beach that best suits your personalized need for tranquil nothingness. For our money, the best beach to lose track of time and space on in Antigua is Rendezvous Bay, which is accessible only by off-road 4x4 and bordered by a nature preserve, allowing you to reconnect with the primal beauty of nature. On the quieter Barbuda, just about any beach will provide the perfect venue for letting the gentle waves lap at your heels, but of particular note is Princess Diana Beach, a crescent-shaped slice of divine pink sand that we fell in love with as a tanning and snorkeling venue.

We came to Antigua and Barbuda as neophytes, and left as evangelists: bringing the warm glow of the Caribbean back with us to our cubicles.

To learn more about Antigua and Barbuda and plan your own journey to the perfect pair, visit visitantiguabarbuda.com

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