Gorilla Trekking in RWANDA

BY: ALLISON FOAT

If eco-conscious travel into untamed places quickens your pulse, gorilla trekking in Rwanda has your name all over it. In the realm of integral conservation this diminutive country is making an outsize impact and for explorers seeking meaningful, immersive experiences, what awaits is nothing short of extraordinary.

While most come to this equatorial nation to trek the mountain gorillas, there is much more in store in this neck of the woods. From tracking golden monkeys, to bird watching, to cultural tours and hiking the plenteous Virunga mountain trails, the tourism offering in Rwanda is impressive. Four national parks, with a fifth about to open, are the gateway to a stunning catalogue of natural assets and wildlife. Think prehistoric caves, turquoise lakes, rare fauna and flora, the Big Five, and no fewer than twelve other primate species. It is no surprise that the post-pandemic tourism sector is bullish and estimated to turn a staggering US $800 million by 2024.

The Volcanoes National Park in the Northwest, a biodiverse mosaic of open grassland, wooded savannah and Afro-montane forest, is where twelve habituated gorilla families are living their best lives. Once driven to the brink of extinction by conflict, poaching, habitat loss, and disease, their numbers have increased over the past few years thanks to a fierce commitment to the preservation of their habitat. While their status has been downgraded from critically endangered to endangered they remain vulnerable, however with continued government-sanctioned protection and the community buyin, their future looks bright.

Trek day began with a rendezvous at the national park HQ in Kinigi to meet the guides, secure our permits and find out which family we’d be visiting, which turned out to be the Sabyinyo troop, a growing family of more than 30 members. After kickstarting our journey with an espresso at Gorilla Cafe (the coffee in Rwanda is excellent) we drove to the starting point of the safari. Two rangers ran through the gorilla rules of engagement one more time, and introduced us to porters, hired (for a fee) to carry backpacks and physically assist hikers when challenging terrain calls for it. With formalities out the way, we strapped on our gaiters, donned raincoats, and headed for the hills. The hike was tough going, made more strenuous after the recent rains. Squelchy ground underfoot meant boot-sucking mud in places, and the occasional bad-tempered buffalo on the path had our guides hacking new routes through the undergrowth. A fun fact is that gorillas hate the rain and will often retreat into the forest canopy to escape, so it can take a little longer for trackers to pin down their location. There is excitement in the air as each step takes you closer to your great reward and when you finally set eyes on the gorillas it’s absolutely exhilarating.

During my sixty minutes a lot happened. At first the troop appeared listless, peeved by the persistent drizzle. The dominant Silverback sat regally and motionless in an elevated nest with just his bare face and torso visible, with thick fur beaded with rain droplets. Big Ben, as he is called, watched nonchalantly as our rain-bedraggled band trickled into the clearing, whispering in awe. At one point, as I lifted my camera I stared straight into his eyes. In those riveting few seconds I saw wisdom and kindness and was reminded again that these great beasts share 98% of our DNA. Luckily for us it stopped raining, the clouds lifted, and the mood followed suit. There was a rustle of foliage as family members began to emerge from all sides, walking casually past us as if we were part of the furniture, to forage and snack on bamboo shoots that only sprout in rainy season. There was one hair-raising moment when a Blackback came haring down the path showing a chestthumping display of dominance. I almost bolted, however was saved from doing so by a vigilant ranger’s firm hand on my shoulder. Fleeing in panic is not an option, and neither is making deliberate eye contact. To mitigate unwanted drama, trackers and guides continuously make a grunting sound that in gorilla-speak signifies submission. Contrary to popular belief, gorillas are non-territorial and docile, and when you’re in their presence you really do sense their gentleness. It’s a mesmerizing hour and all too soon your time is up.

On our drive back, my Wilderness tour guide Didier suggested we stop at the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund Center that opened last year. As a primate research facility-comemuseum, it’s a trove of info and a must-visit either before or after your gorilla experience. Didier was on point with my itinerary, clocking immediately what made me tick, right from the time he met me at Kigali International Airport with his ebullient smile. In the capital we drove through the Old Town and pristine city center, drank espresso at the now-famous Question Coffee, and visited the gut-wrenching Genocide Memorial. Long road trips through the most beautiful landscapes were peppered with great conversation, and getting to know Rwanda through his eyes truly elevated my experience.

My trek was bookended by five memorable nights at Wilderness Sabyinyo (the word ’sabyinyo' is derived from the Kinyarwanda word ‘Iryinyo', meaning ‘tooth'), located twenty minutes from the entrance to the Volcanoes National Park. Wilderness is the frontrunner in this business and all of their properties are underpinned by blue chip service and manned by staff that go the extra mile. The Sabyinyo team led by General Manager Eric Dushime have their hospitality game down and are extremely generous in spirit. The property itself is all charm and quiet luxury, built from local stone with classic décor and unfussy interiors. Lush gardens flank the paths between the various accommodations, flush with exotic plants and delicious monsters the size of small trees, and spectacular views across the valley and peaks are best appreciated over apéritifs on the verandah. With so much of the forest so close to Sabyinyo you may even have a surprise visit from one of the Families! Recently, in the first recorded incident of its kind at the lodge, the Hirwa gorilla family passed through camp and made themselves at home on the steps. Who doesn’t love a definitive turndown? At Sabyinyo, Room Steward and head of Housekeeping Peter Havugimana has made this hallmark pre-slumber ritual into a luxe event, complete with a crackling fire in the hearth, freshly laundered clothes neatly folded in the dressing room, mud-caked boots made good as new, and a handcrafted gift waiting on a plumped-up pillow. This is the ‘x’ factor of room service that we all relish!

Gorilla-tourism has been the game changer in the Kinigi and Nyange districts. Rwanda’s first community-owned lodge operated by Wilderness, Sabyinyo keeps the needs of the locals front of mind through the Sabyinyo Community Livelihood Association (SACOLA for short), an organization established almost twenty years ago to drive socio-economic change and conservation initiatives in communities adjacent to the National Park, using funds accrued from Sabyinyo’s lease fees and guest levies. This is the beauty of a Sabyinyo stay as you know that every cent spent finds its way into a trusted organization committed to people and planet. Running point between lodge and village elders is Leonard Harerimana, the SACOLA and Wilderness press officer. An inspiring chat over tea unpacked how it all works. From planting hundreds of avocado saplings (Wilderness has also planted in excess of 100,000 trees in Rwanda), to building and equipping schools, classrooms and health centers, to establishing vegetable gardens, building bridges and donating livestock, SACOLA is involved in every aspect of local life. A recent intervention saw the

Sabyinyo’s General Manager Eric rally his team to assist with the rebuilding of roads washed away by heavy rains. This past February SACOLA handed over 26 brand new homes to families of widows of the 1994 genocide, and other vulnerable individuals. Wilderness Sabyinyo provided USD $227,000 for the construction and houses that came with furniture, mattresses, food supplies, and a financial contribution. On an arranged walk through the village below Sabyinyo, I met farmers, basket weavers, beekeepers and bakers with thriving micro businesses, a clear example of how SACOLA is succeeding at grass roots level. Eco tourism benefits everyone and where people might once have poached primates for bushmeat, they now see themselves as guardians of both the gorillas and the environment.

The Land of a Thousand Hills is all about charisma, conservation and courage, and it’s the people who make it happen. Next on my bucket list? The Kwita Izina gorilla babynaming ceremony in September. Who’s coming?

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