2018 D R W I N E S LT D , M A R T I N B O R O U G H W W W. D R Y R I V E R . C O . N Z
Contents Introduction....................................... 1 Tasting Notes..................................... 3 Reviews ............................................. 6 Musings ............................................ 8 Dry River Profiles ............................ 14 Cellaring Guide ............................... 16 The effect of cellaring conditions on your wine................... 17 Our Location .................................. 20
DR Wines Ltd PO Box 72, Martinborough 5741 New Zealand PHONE 06 306 9388 www.dryriver.co.nz ENQUIRIES: sue@dryriver.co.nz SALES: sarah@dryriver.co.nz WINEMAKING: wilco@dryriver.co.nz Acknowledgements: Design - Geoff Francis Photography - Lucia Zanmonti
“The world resembles one great slaughterhouse, one universal scene of rapacity and injustice” Erasmus Darwin (1731-1802)
•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Often when I walk through the vineyard with James, our vineyard manager, we discuss our next series of decisions and strategies. How to anticipate the coming year and how to execute our vision, taking into account the information we have of the previous year(s) and the following. As we are the decision makers, it almost goes without saying that we are the ones in control. Gradually I have come to understand that this perception might be a fundamental flaw, and a very arrogant attitude towards ensuring style and quality. For many years, enforcing our will was based on historical winegrowing techniques and philosophies, developed and implemented here at Dry River. It was successful and became the principal way to safeguard the future. We have now started to recognise what we have learnt from the past, but more importantly, to look beyond the immediate horizon to secure our position. To understand this place, our own vision and end result, we have to be conscious about the message or request we communicate to our vineyard. Critical is how it will respond, adapt over time, and ultimately deliver back. However, not without subtly controlling the messenger. I cannot help but wonder if the vineyard becomes a reflection of our manipulations or the other way around - does it manipulate our ideas? The latter concept could also be termed as Turangawaewae, as discussed in our musing last year. The further we delve into an organic management of our vineyards, the more we notice there is a shift in paradigm in our general approach to Dry River, not just an evolution of our vineyards. Being aware we are manipulated and responsive will not necessarily mean we change our style and quality in a negative way. This becomes most evident in the more challenging years where the weather is less benign. The wines are still quintessentially Dry River wines - unique, with a reflection of vintage and time. We suspect that on our path some casualties will fall at the feet of this evolutionary rapacity and injustice. Control is continuously asserted and relinquished to and from our surroundings. Certainly nature does what it knows best, to adapt, secure survival, and ultimately in our case, please us. This occurs either without purpose, or through the hands of a beneficent God. It depends on belief.
Wilco and the team at Dry River Wines
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The majority of the 2017 growing and ripening season indicated we were following a similar trend when compared to the 2013 and 2014 season, with the exception of more windy circumstances throughout the year. Flowering conditions in early summer were beneficial, with cropping levels looking promising. There is no doubt that we were challenged during the 2017 harvest period, where we faced some adverse conditions and were forced to regulate yields and sort more diligently in the vineyard. Thanks to meticulous vineyard management, we have great confidence in these wines. The ability at Dry River to utilise over 35 years of experience and records, has taught that patience and restraint will ultimately reward wine quality. Moreover, it shows we must work towards the most honest reflection of the vintage without compromise or too much embellishment. We therefore take great pleasure in presenting the wines in this release to you.
2016 Dry River ‘Martinborough’
They bring a degree of order and longevity through
crushed apple, golden kiwi fruit and nashi pear.
Pinot noir
their ripe phenolic compounds. The restrained
We were able to reduce the residual sugar levels
The 2016 vintage was our driest growing year
power and silky, linear tannins are strikingly
to 17 grams/litre for this vintage, this assists the
in recent wine cultivation history. Fruit set
intricate and invite further examination.
refined palate in showing a little more minerality. As
was above average, and combined with good
Like most of our Pinot noirs, the 2016 wine
for the nose, the palate shows dense and transparent
heat accumulation the resulting wine certainly
requires three to five years additional evolution for
flavours of stone fruit and peach, with a gracious
shows ample concentration. Care was exercised
optimum drinking pleasure.
and unpretentious attitude. Part of the wine has
ha, and vigilant winegrowing techniques enabled
2017 Dry River ‘Martinborough’
This helped to accentuate the length of the wine,
ripening of what I consider to be a classic and
Pinot Gris
bring more charm to the textural elements and pave
refined Dry River Pinot noir.
The defining influences that typify our Pinot gris
a path for the fruit to shine. We predict this wine
been matured in French oak for 10 months, on lees.
in maintaining yield, approximately four tonnes/
Immediately red currant, strawberries and
are, like always, vineyard related. No irrigation, high
to evolve for the next three to five years and bring drinking pleasure for several years to follow.
plum fruit deliver an aromatic hit. Though primary
exposure to sunshine and small berries contribute
red fruit are visibly dominant, there is more to be
and guarantee a base standard of deep concentration,
found; Christmas spices, rosehip and floral notes
structure and texture. Timing of picking is late, mid-
2017 Dry River ‘Lovat’ Gewürztraminer Due to a long “hang” time in the vineyard
like lilies and freshly cut hay are the more obvious
to late April, and for the 2017 vintage the above
characters that we see. The supporting role of
were fundamental for this aromatic wine to avoid
this year, we see recognisable hallmarks of ripe
the oak intensifies the underlying tobacco and
any lingering dilution.
Gewürztraminer; rose petals, lychee, mandarin
caramel notes.
The fresh and lively aromatics form an
and grapefruit rind. Since our aim is to produce a
The palate shows a youthful intensity with
interesting mix, where balance and restraint are
full bodied wine with a high aromatic density, yet
a tendency to speak with great clarity. However,
key fundamentals of this wine. This year the wild
a restraint and elegance, we generally make several
another more serene voice commands the fruit to
flowers form the lively aspect and are the most
picks through this vineyard at different ripening
spread out and surrender to the maze of tannins
noticeable, apple and orange blossoms provide the
times. The last picking pass was with a high portion
and juicy acidity that ascends from underneath.
fresh characteristics. The nose is further filled with
of Botrytis infected fruit, which is showcased by
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clover honey, candied ginger, Turkish delight and linalool.
and clove spices, would almost suggest this is Pinot
and lemon rind. Extended time on lees, 15 months,
gris. At the same time, it is unmistakably Riesling.
helped to develop brioche and crème caramel like
With the dense and ripe aromatics on display
A small amount of residual sugar, five grams/litre,
characters with added texture and weight.
on the nose, the palate is surprisingly more light
offers an appropriate entrance for the tropical fruit
A softly coated acidity allows the wine to
weight with a lower residual sugar than usual, 17
like pineapple, and even mango. So much of this
move over the palate in a gentle matter, deceptively
grams/litre. The consequence of this is a gentle
wine is texture though. A voluptuous densely packed
masking the linear and postured nature due to
entrance. However, the wine spreads fast and
palate with texture and fruit weight makes a real
interaction with other textural components. The
evenly, covering the complete palate with a friendly
statement. A friendly acidity salivates and draws
scope and depth of flavour effortlessly captivates
and buoyant mouthfeel. Good “housekeeping”
the attention to the mid palate. Here, orange and
interest by initially showcasing almond croissant,
means there is the playful interaction between the
grapefruit rind with citrus fruit dominate their
Beurre Bosc pears and barely noticeable toast,
fruit weight, the density and acidity. The latter
space. The distinct linear acidity builds the palate
presumably from the oak barrels. Since little Malo-
keeps the wine fresh, alive and allows for a long
up to a seamless long finish. Expect this wine to
lactic acid conversion happens with this wine a
and linear finish. This wine can be enjoyed young,
cellar well in a good cellar, best to drink after four
lemon sorbet character allows for a long finish.
or after five to eight years for added complexity.
to seven years.
Enjoy this wine after two to five years for optimal drinking pleasure.
2017 Dry River ‘Craighall’ Riesling
2016 Dry River ‘Martinborough’
To achieve ripe flavours, soft tannins with an
Chardonnay
energetic acidity requires rigid vineyard management
The variances each vintage offers, will favour each
Riesling ‘Selection’
and multiple stage picking passes. The early picks of
variety in a different way. And every year will call
It was an extraordinary year for this style of wine.
‘clean’ fruit relied on the above and the maximum
upon an altered approach to managing both the
Only two selective picking passes were made
amount of sunlight ‘harvested’. The denser and
vine and wine. Mostly, these are subtle changes.
and subsequently blended with a small portion
more tropical flavours and aromatics depend on
I believe over the last four years we have entered
of early picked Riesling to produce this wine.
longer vineyard hang time, and therefore will be
a new paradigm in our approach to Chardonnay
The combination of the clean and early pick with
exposed to higher risk due to the changing weather.
without alienating far from our traditional style.
The result of the 2017 Riesling is nothing short
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A formidable straw golden, light yellow colour
2017 Dry River ‘Craighall’
late and severely Botrytis affected fruit, resulted in a polarising wine of orientation versus distortion.
of stunning, and a testament to the hard work by
introduces this wine. I have to go back to the 2009
At such an early stage, it can be difficult to
our vineyard team. White peach, ripe floral notes
when the wine expressed a similar soft and creamy
pinpoint exact fruit descriptors. Thanks to the
and mineral freshness show a dynamic between
nose, layered with almond nougat, ripe pineapple
high percentage of Botrytis infection and shrivel
power and restraint. Rose’s Lime cordial, hints of
and golden kiwi fruit. The wine is kept opulent
at picking, the wine shows an astonishing degree
nougat with orange and mandarin flesh and fennel
and energetic with hints of freshly crushed thyme
of complexity. Clover honey, ripe stone fruits and
preserved apricots are the advanced fruit characters. The mineral edge is accentuated by orange peel, lemon rind and grapefruit pith. There is no mistaking about the residual sugar:
2015 Dry River ‘Craighall’ Tempranillo
stems from the interaction between the acidity
With its Spanish heritage; the 2015 dry, warm
and tannins which will require some additional
summer and autumn were very conducive
development to temper their presence. For the
ripening conditions to produce a passionate, warm
time being ample fruit density encapsulates this
95 gr/l, which gives it a rich and welcoming start.
blooded and “from the heart” wine. The youthful
structure with blackberries, cassis and boysenberries.
But soon the wine regains a clear direction and
ardent character is reflected by floral violets, lilies
Dark chocolate, leather and tobacco leaf further fill
focus from the zesty acidity. A full middle palate,
and fruit of the forest. Winter warming aromas
the veins. The voluptuous and complex wine will
presumably from the highly matured fruit at
like cinnamon, cloves and caramel balance out
benefitfrom decanting in itsearlystageof development,
harvest, enters the clash to stretch out the linear
the primary perfume. Prolonged time in barrel,
we therefore recommend to cellar for three to five
direction and alter the course. The palate resembles
18 months, gave rise to further development
years, or more.
the aromatics described above with added Granny
and evolution of aromas like desiccated toasted
Smith apple and orange flesh. A beautiful wine
coconut, mocha and roasted coffee beans.
now, however, the real interest of this wine is
On the palate, the extra time was beneficial
expected to arise over time as the wine unfolds over
too. The wine displays a lively dynamic, yet a
the next five to ten years.
rigidity that reveals a mature stamina. This likely
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Reviews G a r y Wa l s h
T h e W i n e f r o n t w w w. w i n e f r o n t . c o m . a u
When we reflect on our wines, all decisions and influences from the growing season in the vineyard and élevage process in the winery are dissected and scrutinised. It shapes our relationship with our wines, which blurs our objectiveness. We therefore feel the need for external scrutiny to ensure our decisions and vision are validated, but moreover, to ensure our followers can have confidence in our wines and their purchases. It is imperative that we use trustworthy ‘gate keepers’ with a wide experience in the world of fine wine and a credible track record. For this edition of our brochure we have used independent wine critic Gary Walsh from Australian wine critic collective The Winefront, to make an assessment of our wines. Their ‘philosophy’ is simple and clear; they firmly believe it is their obligation to report on and assess the wares of wineries and their wines at arm’s length, free of any bias or agreement. They will not review our wines as their client, they only ever wear one hat; the hat of the unbiased consumer advocate.
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2015 Dry River ‘Martinborough’ Pinot Noir
2016 Dry River ‘Lovat’ Gewurztraminer 95 Points
2016 Dry River ‘Martinborough’ Chardonnay
96 Points
Has about 20 grams of residual sugar per litre, so
94 Points
Gee this is very good. It’s dense, throaty and deep in
moving well into off-dry, which is no bad thing
Subtle pretty floral note, but mainly it’s about
tannin and flavour, but not heavy or clumsy. Dark
for a GT. Candied peel, rose petals, spice, musk,
almond nougat, and rich spicy, almost tropical
cherry, layered with sweet spice and dried herb, an
ripe melon, lychee, you name it, it’s all going on
Chardonnay flavour. Medium to full-bodied,
almost ferrous thing going on, which you could
here. Medium bodied, rich honey and spice flavour,
savoury and hazelnutty, with a slick creamy texture
call ‘minerally’, if you’d like, rich grainy tannin, cool
wonderful mouth-perfume, a glycerol texture,
that’s whipped into shape by crackling acidity,
blood orange acidity, and a very long finish, spiced
with acidity to cut and balance. Finish is again
mango and toast, and a long juicy nutty finish. A bit
and pimped up with a delicious Chinotto bitterness.
layered with flavour, sweetness, and a little twist of
of power, a little rock and roll, delivered with style.
Superb. A wine of charisma, integrity and intrigue.
something savoury too, and a light powdery texture.
Hard not to fall in love with it.
Top shelf.
2016 Dry River ‘Martinborough’ Pinot Gris
2016 Dry River ‘Craighall’ Riesling
94 Points
94 Points
A blend of early picked grapes and those that
94 Points
Pretty much the ‘dry’ Riesling from Dry River, with
developed plenty of botrytis. There’s 95g/L residual
Layered and complex style with a white flower perfume, nuts, pear and an almost juniper twang above. Full bodied, a little oily, but some grip and textural highlights rough it up a little, while acidity is well settled but present. Perfumed from front to back, with an exotic and flamboyant nature, it’s a fine example of richer Pinot Gris.
2017 Dry River ‘Craighall’ Selection Riesling
6g/L residual sugar.
sugar here. Apricot, ginger and lime marmalade,
Floral, spicy, subtle whiff of petrol, ripe lime and
musk, spice and all manner of spicy and aromatic
green apple. Juicy green apple and citrus flavours,
things going on. Juicy, ripe lime and mango,
gentle chalkiness to the texture, acidity that sits
assorted citrus and honey, intense cut of acidity,
comfortably inside the wine, without jarring or
chalky texture, and an almost savoury finish, that
being obtuse, then a grapefruity burst on the
turns fruity and sizzles with acidity and stony feels.
finish, with a pleasant pithy bitterness. High style.
So nicely done.
Wonderful to drink.
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Bacchus-Caravaggio(1595)
M U S I N G In pursuit of style, quality and individuality, we take action and manipulate our environment to claim control and triumph over the end result and ‘to be on top of the world’. However, in light of evolution theory, we, humans, cannot consider ourselves as autonomous beings. We have been subjected to countless years of hereditary traits that do not find their origins in mankind itself. This integrates us unequivocally into the fabric of life and a wider natural system. What then is this idea of claiming control, and is it validated? In order to create a better understanding of, in our case winegrowing historically, we have to be conscious of this obvious bi-lateral relationship and the facets affecting it.
BY WILCO LAM
or supporters of the above theory, animal
Simply speaking in biology, evolution is explained as
and plant ancestry is not difficult to imagine
the variation upon descent from a common ancestor. This
and accept. This concept is now generally
can be seen as a family (phylogenetic) tree branching out
acknowledged, including mainstream organized
giving rise to the diversity in species of life we see today
religions, though humans are removed out of the equation.
and showing the relationship between them. Noteworthy
Some still adopt the viewpoint of resistance, and whilst worthy
is that the phylogenetic tree is circular, which dismisses
of consideration, we will set this aside for the purpose of this
the notion of a hierarchical structure of nature in a genetic
discussion. Historically, new scientific findings are often first
sense. Fundamental to the process of change are the genetic
met with skepticism and resistance. Many early scientists
variations within species and the long time span to achieve
found even their own discoveries irreconcilable with religious
this. Several different mechanisms are classified that work to
scripture or their own theories and adjusted their findings
achieve this diversity. The most commonly known is natural
to avoid persecution. However, over time, the gap between
selection as proposed by Charles Darwin.
science and religion is closing, and both find ways to mutually
Change over time induced by mankind can possibly
respect one another. This is highlighted by the ideas of one
influence the course of evolution too. Though evolution is not
of the grandfathers of evolution theory, William Wallace,
to be mistaken for simple change over time, like the formation
who expressed “I am thankful I can see much to admire
or eroding of mountains. When we look at our own sector,
in all religions”. These unifying words emphasise and
farming has seen many revolutions historically; the selection of
validate the interaction of the two viewpoints. Though this
cultivars and species, the introduction of animals on the farm
musing is neither a scientific nor religious text, it will take a
for further mechanisation, repeat selection for performance,
separated viewpoint of the two through the lens of evolution.
and lately the Green Revolution. At the basis of much of
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empty vineyard sections. This is primarily to continue the (Dry River) story and maintain a unique style, but also to further promote any positive genetic mutation to adapt to their direct surroundings. Through the discovery of these “jumping genes”, it can be alleged that grapevines perform and evolve to suit our needs and environment (cultural or physical) in order to guarantee their survival. Transformations within society have also affected people’s attitudes. Mainly in respect to the role, trends and perceptions towards food, language, skills etc. For example, diverging perspectives towards alcohol (wine), farming (winegrowing) and proximity to the world, can claim to have resulted in the particular varieties planted and the subsequent wine style. This is apparent in wines like Sherry, Port, Madeira, but also New Zealand Sauvignon blanc. These evolving or emerging products are believed to be influenced by socio-cultural and environmental evolution, but can for example partly be linked to differing methods of metabolism of alcohol in humans. It can therefore be argued that changes in behaviour and even physical make up of human bodies, can be responsible to drive our own evolution, or at least influence it. Lastly in an economic sense, industries also react to external changes and evolve alongside them in order to guarantee their survival. Though no gene modification precedes any of this
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this change is another well-known mechanism of evolution:
change, succession planning for a new generation of leaders
artificial selection. For example, the evolution of farm stock
and staff will generate a different gene pool, bringing their
and crops is a result of only allowing certain animals and
own interpretations and attitudes. We experience this first
plants to reproduce to favour certain characteristics. Due to
hand, here at Dry River, with the departure of founder and
long time cultivation of Vitis vinifera (grapevine), growers
previous owner Neil McCallum and the appointment of
have selected favourable traits in grapevines relevant to them,
a new team six years ago. From a business perspective, we
whilst spreading them around the world. As a result we have
are very much in control of who drives internal progress
the many grape varieties for table wine we see today. Due
regarding vision and strategy, though much else remains at
to this successful selection of grape cultivars, we have also
the mercy of external influences.
believed to be in control of this (genetic) change. Scientific
So, are we in control and ‘on top of the world’? Whether
research now challenges this perception by the discovery
it is natural or artificial selection, the line on who is in the
of mobile genetic elements, so called jumping genes, in
driving seat is evidently blurred. In order to achieve our
grapevines. These are now suspected to be responsible for
own goals we will have to be conscious of the concept that
the mutation and formation of the different grape varieties
evolution penetrates every aspect of life; culture, society,
and clones.
the physical and non-physical world. Perhaps we now have
The notion of artificial selection is at work on a micro
the tools and understanding to acknowledge we are not
scale too, close to home. Here at Dry River we select the
immune to life’s forces. However, we know we can at least
best performing Pinot noir vines from our oldest vineyard,
influence the influencers and have a humble approach
further cultivate their cuttings and plant them in our own
towards this relationship.
•••••••••••••••••
Temple of
Erasmus Darwin was a British physician, botanist, poet and natural philosopher, who lived at the turn of the 18th century. Darwin, who celebrated the age of reason, focussed on progress to improve society through science, industry, education, and political change. However, his major, most acclaimed and later criticised works include “The Botanic Garden”, “Zoonomia” and the “Temple of Nature”. Here we can see unconventional glimpses into how Erasmus Darwin unified and expanded his ideas on the theory of evolution. As the grandfather of Charles Darwin, he is now believed to have had a critical influence in the foundation of the “Origin of Species”, as formulated by Charles Darwin. Erasmus challenged Christian orthodoxy by proposing that human beings have gradually evolved over the millennia from primitive organisms.
Erasmus Darwin, now the subject of increased historical interest, has left a poetic legacy addressing controversial ideas. Enjoy the following excerpt where he first addresses his theory of evolution.
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Erasmus Darwin
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Pumpkin Gnocchi with burnt butter, crispy sage and mostarda di frutta
The wine and hospitality industry are naturally bound together, a relationship wine producers will treasure and protect. One of our valued relationships is that with Tom and Kate Hutchison from Capitol Restaurant in Wellington. Regarded as a classic and timeless restaurant, Capitol Restaurant has become a staple and iconic destination for food and wine aficionados. We have therefore asked Tom to create a dish and provide his recipe and Kate to suggest the wine match. Enjoy! INGREDIENTS 100g 50g 50g 10g 1 20g 10
pumpkin OO flour pumpkin flour (or plain flour) finely grated Parmesan egg yolk un-salted butter fresh sage leaves
15ml 200ml 5 -20g 50g
METHOD Peel and de-seed the pumpkin, cut it into chunks and bake, covered for 20 minutes until soft. Puree in a food processor and allow to cool in the fridge 1hour - overnight, In a bowl, place the cooled pumpkin, egg yolk and finely grated parmesan. Sift the flours over this and fold it all together, gently and evenly, using a spatula and then your hands. Once the dough has just come together, turn it out onto a floured surface, and knead it softly until the dough is billowy and has a slight spring back. Don’t over work the dough but add a little more flour if the dough is sticky. Quarter the dough, wrap and refrigerate it for 20 mins. Piece by piece, roll long sausage shapes that are about 1.5 cm thick. Cut the gnocchi into 2 cm lengths. Repeat this for the rest of the dough pieces. Cook your gnocchi in small batches in gently boiling, salted water. The gnocchi are cooked when they pop back up to the surface. In a sautée pan on medium heat, melt the butter, add a pinch of salt and gently fry the sage leaves. As soon as the sage is crispy, add the lemon juice then pluck the sage out and put it aside. Add chicken stock to the pan and simmer this until it’s reduced to a thick saucy consistency. Add the cooked gnocchi and coat it well with the sauce. (If you made your gnocchi earlier and it’s now cold, add it earlier and warm it through as the sauce reduces) Turn the gnocchi and sauce out into pasta bowls, chop the mustard fruits and place these sparingly on the gnocchi (they’re sweet). Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg and freshly shaved shards of Grana Padano. WINE MATCH 2013 Dry River Pinot Gris This dish goes well with a textured Pinot Gris with great depth and density. The spicy fruit notes in the wine with compliment and reinforce the sweetness of the pumpkin and mustard fruits while its full texture and body meet the buttery chicken sauce, and the firm acid finish cuts through the starchiness of gnocchi.
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lemon juice chicken stock mostarda di frutta (mustard fruits) Grana Padano parmesan fresh nutmeg salt & pepper to taste
Serves: 4 Preparation time: 1hour 30minutes Cook time: 30minutes Difficulty: moderate
Sonja Eberly The Farm at Cape Kidnappers We would like to introduce Sonja to you. As the Sommelier at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, many guests will have had the pleasure to be greeted and looked after by her. Sonja has her roots in the United States, and followed her wine passion via Europe to New Zealand. Here she started working at Carrick Winery in Central Otago to extend her knowledge of the country’s wine community. Her extensive background in journalism and hospitality, combined with a WSET advanced level certificate, meant she rightfully earned her place at one of the Roberson’s lodges as the key wine communicator.
During her time at The Cape, we have built a close relationship with Sonja, who is always eager to inform her guests of the Dry River and Robertson Lodges connection. Below we would like to show our appreciation through the following ‘Profile” highlight, where she describes her first Dry River Wines experience. I was first introduced to Dry River Wines while working the 2017 wine harvest in Central Otago with Carrick Winery. Typically, winemakers trade wine with each other through the year. It’s a great way to keep up with what other winemakers are doing, both for comparison and exploration’s sake. During harvest, Francis Hutt, the winemaker at Carrick,
would often open a bottle from this collection of exchanged wine to share during lunch with the harvest interns. We would all go around the table and talk about our impressions of the wines— sometimes blind tasting them first. It was during one of these lunches that I was first introduced to Dry River. Francis opened a bottle of 2013 Dry River Amaranth Syrah and I was struck by the simultaneous elegance and power of this wine. It seemed to display the perfect harmony between old world subtlety and new world fruit, with that beautiful lift and vibrancy that New Zealand wines so often show. I remember it being earthy and delicately floral, but also having gracefully structured tannin and spice. Harvest time is crazy and hard work, with lots of very long hours—something I never forget when pouring wine for guests. But when we tasted this wine, I was so impressed; the experience of tasting and smelling wine created this wonderful moment of pause, where I could stop and just consider and appreciate something really beautiful. Little did I know at that time that I would end up working for a property with such a close relationship with Dry River! I’ve now had so many wonderful opportunities to explore Dry River wines—both more recent releases, as well as incredible aged bottles. I tasted a 1997 Dry River Pinot Noir the other evening, and I was blown away. I had to remind myself that I wasn’t tasting something from Burgundy, but a 20-year-old Pinot Noir from New Zealand.
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Cellaring guide
Riesling
Gewurz
Tempranillo
Viognier
Syrah
Riesling (Craig)
Pinot noir
Pinot gris
Gewurz (Lovat)
Gewurz (DR or Mart.)
Late harvest/ Bunch selection
Chardonnay
Be aware that our wines can ‘go into a tunnel’ somewhere between six months and two years after release. During this time the wine can be quite unrewarding, but be patient because it can blossom later and confound earlier impressions and predictions. A second dip can occur between 4 & 6 years when the wine can start to look tired then may well emerge looking refreshed and in an interesting new phase for the next few years. It can be worth opening and even decanting them a few hours before serving – particularly the reds.
2017 2016 2015 2014 2013 2012 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 This table is only a guide for a standard cellar at 12ºC – see Cellaring Notes
KEY not made/to be released hold worth trying but conserve your stocks. drink from now on if from a good cellar; warmer cellars reach this point earlier. there is little to be gained from further cellaring. The effect of differing cellaring conditions will be obvious – wines in warmer cellars should be checked for premature ageing. dead, dying or thinking about it, in our cellaring conditions. Warmer cellars will approach this point sooner.
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The effect of cellaring conditions on your wine Warmer and fluctuating temperatures will age wine more rapidly and may not be as beneficial to the less robust wines and varietals. In our experience the ‘robustness’ of wines is likely to be in the order: Cabernet and blends > Sauvignon blanc > Syrah > Riesling > Pinot gris and Chardonnay > Pinot noir and Gewurztraminer. Wines high in extract will tend to mature rather more slowly than the ‘average’ same varietal on this list. If you have a number of our wines and your cellar conditions are not similar to our ‘standard cellar’, you will no doubt learn how to interpret the chart in relation to your own conditions. However, a more active approach to evaluating your cellar is to note temperatures for the range of the days, between weeks and between seasons, by leaving a thermometer in a large jar of water in your cellar. It is not sufficient to observe that the cellar ‘always feels cool’ – such feelings are relative only to outside conditions. Significant fluctuations in daily or weekly temperatures tend to add to the speed of ageing commented on below, and may also increase the incidence of leakers and seepers, occasionally give examples of ATA (atypical ageing – see GENERAL NOTES … , Aromas) and disproportionately fast ageing for laccase-containing wines (i.e. those with potential or actual botrytis). Vibration and direct light on the wine are damaging influences which should also be avoided.
General Notes Relating to Cellared Wines Wine maturation is an organic process which is very dependent on the conditions of cellaring. Wines do not inevitably end up at a predictable quality and style, hence André Simone’s famous quote ‘there are no great wines, only great bottles.’ Nevertheless, cellars with the best possible conditions are the most likely to produce the best possible end results.
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If your storage has temperature maximums of no more than…
Ageing – premature A wine can show maturity beyond its years, but this tends not to be such a cause for concern until the wine is past its peak – as evidenced by loss of fruit, oxidation and possible browning. If a number of wines in your cellar show such symptoms and these are in advance of expectations, a careful evaluation of your cellar conditions is necessary. If you do not wish to or cannot improve these conditions, be aware that all your wines should be drunk somewhat earlier than may be generally recommended. Wines from high-laccase vintages, e.g. ’95 and ’97, will be disproportionately affected. Premature ageing does sacrifice some potential quality. Refer to CELLARING GUIDE or consult us if you have queries. Aromas – unpleasant If you know that a wine had good typical smells when first purchased but it has developed unpleasant (sulphide) smells as it has aged, there can be several possible explanations. These include ATA (atypical ageing) which is brought on by heat – either a short period at high temperatures or warmish cellaring. ATA may affect an occasional bottle within that batch of wine, and the only way of avoiding it is to improve the cellar or storage conditions to less than 14˚C. Leaving a bottle out in bright light can also cause sulphides (“light struck”), and wines stored under screwcaps can also generate this type of smell when stored for a few years. Bottle Shock Shortly after a wine is bottled it can appear atypical, lacking fruit,
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Then your storage conditions are…
10–15°C
good, and your wines will be at a similar stage of development to that indicated in the table on page 16. Burgundians say that for proper cellaring Pinot noir must be kept in this temperature range (cf. the book Pinot noir, by A. Barr, p33)
15–18°C
at these temperatures your wine could be maturing
20–25%
faster than above. Nevertheless, for quality the conditions are adequate, unless you would like to pamper your wines or your cellar is large and/or valuable. The chart should still be very useful, but bear in mind that your wines will develop faster. The results may be less fine.
18–24°C
this includes quite a few Auckland cellars. It is not ideal; differences in speed of development will be evident even with storage over 2–3 years. Plan for holding less robust wines (discussed above) no more than 3 years. Be aware that a mature wine from this cellar is likely to be not quite as good as one aged at lower temperatures.
25+°C
not very good, but do note that most good wines may still benefit for up to 2 or 3 years in this cellar. Less robust wines probably should not be held beyond 2 years. Cabernet and blends, Sauvignon blanc, Fumé blanc, Riesling could benefit from longer periods, depending on the actual conditions. Avoid cellaring Pinot noir.
becoming rather hard and angular and even tasting aldehydic. This is from the effects of filtration and possible oxidation at the time of bottling and it should recover in a few months. Breathing wines This is the practice of decorking a wine or even decanting several hours before drinking. It can help very young wines (particularly reds), more mature wines which may have developed less than pleasant smells, or slightly sprizig reds. Buying cellared wines This can be a risky proposition. It is unwise to accept an auctioneer’s assurance that they have been cellared well. Risks can be reduced by buying only the ‘robust varieties’ (see Cellaring Guide) but unless you know that the cellar was temperature controlled, purpose-built or situated within a cool even-temperatured climate, be prepared for surprises. Check the cork and ullage. Capsules Capsules may be made from many materials including plastic, metals or sealing wax. Capsules can protect the cork against cork borer but tend to have little other than a decorative function, unless they are made of wax, which probably slightly slows down the access of oxygen and is therefore an alternative for wines to be cellared for a long time, or for half bottles. Clarity/brilliance Cloudiness in a white wine can be unattractive but need not affect the flavour. In these instances it can arise from a protein instability or some other causes. Other forms of hazes in both whites and reds can arise from microbiological in-
stability or the effects of trace metals such as iron or copper and may indicate a damaged wine. (See also Sediment/deposits.) Colour/hue This should be appropriate for the type and age of the wine. Excessive brown tints immediately call the condition of the wine to question – oxidation and premature ageing are possible. (See also Oxidation.) Cork borers These are probably similar to wood borer. Cork dust is seen on the outer surface of the cork and small holes will have been eaten into the cork. I suggest spraying a pyrethroid fly spray on the surface of the cork and then sealing it with sealing wax. If a number of bottles are affected, fumigating your cellar may be a good idea. Corked wines This does not refer to wines with fragments of cork in the bottle. The fault arises from trace flavours within the cork which result in wines with mouldy or ‘wet sack flavours’ and a loss of fruit. In borderline cases, a loss of fruit might still be evident, but the extraneous flavours will be too difficult for most to detect. Although the fault arises from the cork manufacture, most winemakers will replace the bottle. It is worth noting that we have strict Quality Assurance checks on all our corks. If it appears that two of our wines in a row show cork taint, check that the problem does not in fact arise from cellaring conditions. Corked Wines – return of If one of our wines is affected, we will provide a credit for the mail order purchase of the same wine from the current vintage. We do like
to confirm the cause of the problem so, if at all possible, top up the bottle with boiled and cooled water, stopper it with the original cork in the same orientation as it was originally, and return it to us ASAP (preferably within 24 hours) with a note indicating the date of opening, for forwarding to the cork supplier. Expect no more than around 1 in 50 of recent vintages to be affected.
cleaned your teeth or sucked peppermints within a few hours of tasting the wine? This can markedly alter your perception of flavours. Alternatively the wine may be ‘corked’ (see above), suffering from premature ageing (see below) or oxidation. Storing bottles of wine in sunlight (particularly in clear or lighter coloured glass) can cause flavour loss in a matter of weeks.
Decanting Essential with all wines which throw a sediment, otherwise the flavours will be impaired. (See also Sediments/ deposits.) Wines made for cellaring (i.e. rich in antioxidants) can look lean and hard when first opened, but access by air softens and improves the texture. Even our older white and red wines (after good cellaring) are likely to benefit from decanting a few hours in advance and our young reds in particular,can even benefit from being left to cool or in the fridge overnight.
Oxidation This can cause a drying sensation – more in the front of the mouth – which can be reminiscent of the flavour of sherry, or smell toffee-like, or cause dulled fruit on the palate. It can arise because of excessive ullage, poor cellaring, or because the wine is simply too old. Dull colour or excessive brown tints can be telltales, but don’t be confused by the effect of fluorescent light on reds, particularly lighter coloured ones. (See also Random Oxidation.)
Half bottles These have the same size cork for half the volume of wine. Oxidation and ageing therefore proceed significantly faster than with larger bottles. Given the choice, buy the larger bottles for longterm cellaring. Dessert wines of very high must weight can last a long time even in half bottles. Lead residues Older wine bottles with lead capsules tend to accumulate traces of lead acetate around the mouth, and theoretically these residues may be partly dissolved when pouring the wine. Wipe the top of the bottle clean before pouring such wines. Lead capsules are now phased out worldwide and Dry River has used alternative materials since 1992. Leakers If a new wine is leaking badly, return it. If it is a particularly good wine, it can be recorked. (see also Seeping Corks.) If your older wines have a tendency to leak, check your storage conditions. Loss of, or unusual flavours Had you
Random Oxidation Occasionally one can encounter oxidized wines which are unlike the rest of the batch from which they came. There are several possible explanations for this problem which can be found under all types of closures. If the wine is one of ours, treat it as described in Corked Wines – return of so that we can confirm the problem and replace the bottle. Sediment/deposits Most sediment which settles easily is harmless and the wine should be decanted off it before serving. Allowing the sediment to mix into the wine can make a dramatic difference to the perception of quality – particularly in reds. (See also Wine crystals and Decanting.) Seeping corks If the top of the cork is damp, the wine should be drunk soon – even if there is no obvious increase in ullage. Seepage is an indication that air has had at least some access to the wine, and although such bottles are unlikely to be spoiled, this low-level oxidation will progressively dull the fruit as time goes on. If you are getting a significant number of these wines,
check the temperatures and temperature fluctuations in your cellar – it may need to be improved. Temperature of serving Generally red wines are served warmer than whites. However, there are no simple rules, so be prepared to experiment or consult a good wine text. Remember that your perception of many flavours can change considerably with a change of only a few degrees celsius. Travel Shock Vibration during transport can make wine appear atypical – hard or angular and lacking fruit. It can take up to two months to recover – less if stored at low temperatures. Transporting wine at low temperatures (5–10˚C) reduces the problem. Exposure of the bottle to vibration during storage (e.g. under stairs) can have a similar effect. Ullage The ullage is the gap between the cork and the level of the wine when the bottle is vertical. As the wine grows older the ullage will increase depending on the cork and storage conditions. If the cork is actually leaking and has an excessive ullage it should be drunk as soon as possible. Older wines with excessive ullage and sound corks will tend to oxidise or deteriorate more quickly, but robust examples can still be sound with 4.5–7cm ullage. More delicate wines and most whites will show deterioration well before this. Always check the ullage of a wine and the condition of the cork before opening the bottle to determine whether it may be atypical in terms of its ageing. Wine crystals With time, some wines may deposit crystals in the bottle and on the inside of the cork. In a white wine these crystals tend to be white and in a red wine they may be affected by the colour of the wine. This is a natural deposit reflecting a lack of processing in the wine. It can be found in the most expensive hand-made wines and should not be considered a fault. It does not necessitate decanting.
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