Vol. 5 Summer 2016
irish barbers journal.
02 OCTOBER / OPIUM ROOMS / DUBLIN
FEATURING
ANDREW Andrew Does Hair / DONNIE HAWLEY Layrite Pomade JOHNNY THE BA BA BarberBarber UK / JOTH DAVIES Savills Barbers MENSPIRE / MITCHEL WILSON Layrite Director of Education THE MOVEMBER FOUNDATION / THE WALDORF EXHIBITORS & FOUNDERS
BARBER NV MAGAZINE / BARBERS & GROOMERS / IRISH BARBER JOURNAL MENSPIRE SCISSORS / POMP & CO / RESURVA ONLINE BOOKING SYSTEMS REUZEL / TRUE BARBER PRODUCTS presenting ADH & LAYRITE PLUS
LIFE TIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD PRESENTED BY SCHOREM & THE WALDORF BARBER MUSEUM
BARBER CUT DUBLIN is proud to present Ireland's first Barber Festival & Educational Conference, on 2nd October in the Opium Rooms, Dublin. Featuring the biggest names in the business, you will experience all aspects of traditional and modern barbering and shaving techniques. The whole day will end with a party like no other, live music and Dj’s into the night.
This will be the biggest gathering of barbers in one place in Ireland and the social event of the year. Early bird tickets are available now. For tickets & information visit www.barbercutdublin.com Brought to you in partnership with
WELCOME www.irishbarbersjournal.com Vol.5, Summer 2016
THE IRISH BARBERS JOURNAL IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY DUBLIN SCHOOL OF BARBERING www.dublinschoolofbarbering.com
INDEX NEWS 4 Hairlough Barbers win 98fm’s Best Barber Title 5 Work Opportunities in Melbourne 6 A Third Shop for Sean Bryan of Cut & Sew 8 John Keegan Announced as IHF Barber of the Year BARBER MASTERCLASS 12 Paul Mac Special & The Darryn Pitman UP & COMING IRELAND 18 Gareth Moriarty’s Top 5 Young Barbers 20 Barber Cut Dublin’s Apprentice of the Year Competition FEATURED SHOP 22 Frank’s Barber Shop, Crumlin THE BUSINESS POST 26 The Rook Barbers, Dundalk & Navan PRODUCTS 28 Alpecin - How Do You Keep a Great Head of Hair Whatever Your Age? 32 Barbersandgroomers.ie - Father’s Day Ideas for Your Barbershop 34 Kian Marc Ballance - What’s in my Kit Bag?
Editor & Designer Mary Fleming Supervisor Padraig Carr Hair on Cover Paul Mac Special The Darryn Pitman Cover Photographer
Tim Caisley Photography Cover Models Nathan Adams Oisin Brady Jake Bennett Have an idea for our next publication? Get in touch with mary@dublinschoolofbarbering.com Instagram: @irishbarbersjournal
NEWS
98fm’s ‘Best of Dublin’ awards have become a well known public mark of approval for businesses of all categories in the city, due to the fact that winners are decided by popular vote. This year’s awards saw some seriously stiff competition in the ‘Best Barber’ category, with Cut & Sew (Temple Bar), Hairlough (Clondalkin), Grafton Barbers, Sugar Daddy (Exchequer Street), and Empire Barber (Tallaght) all toughing it out for the much coveted title. All five shops did extremely well to make it through to the final stages, as they had already received the most votes from Dublin’s public meaning they had been chosen as the top 5 in the city, not an easy feat by any means. The awards ceremony took place on May 25th in Powerscourt Townhouse, and with just 19 finalists out of 95 taking home the trophies, Hairlough Clondalkin emerged victorious as Dublin’s ‘Best Barber’ for the second year running.
Hairlough Barbers, Clondalkin take home 98fm’s ‘Best Barber’ title for second year in a row
Speaking on the shop’s Facebook page, here’s what they had to say: “Just want to say a huge thank you to all our customers who nominated & voted for us again this year in the 98fm Best of Dublin awards. We are absolutely thrilled to take the award back to Clondalkin again this year. The support from everyone has been unreal. We really have the best customers ever, we are so grateful to each & every one of you. And of course to the lads without all their hard work this wouldn’t be possible. So thank you everyone, here’s to the next 10 years”.
Instagram @hairlough_barbers Facebook Hairlough-Barbers
NEWS
Make it in Melbourne The Men’s Room, Melbourne are seeking to employ Irish barbers. Al Kristensen told us more about the opportunities available.
Hi Al, could you tell us a bit about yourself? I’m originally from Manchester and have been out in Australia for nine years at this stage. Could you tell us a bit about the shops you run? They are cool, modern barbershops in great affluent areas. They all have sponsored British, Irish and Italian staff. I’ve found that I’ve had to be a sponsor because there’s no barber schools in Australia. What opportunities do you have available for Irish barbers? I can supply 6 months paid work if they are below 31 years of age and on a working holiday visa. If you find that you love it here, can do the job well and get on with all the other staff members, then I can sponsor you for 4 years leading up to a permanent residency. What sort of experience do barbers need if they want to apply? We’re looking for over 2 years experience and an NVQ 2 qualification or equivalent on the job training if you’ve learnt everything in a shop. We’re specifically looking for barbers rather than hairdressers. Why should Irish barbers consider emigrating to Australia? It’s a beautiful place with a great culture and some of the best cuisine. It’s English speaking of course, and there are plenty of work opportunities. How do barbers apply if interested? Via email to alk228@hotmail.com Instagram: @brotherwolf_ @mensroom_docklands @mensroom_elsternwick If you’re already in Australia, call in and have a chat with Dublin Paddy, Tyrone Ryan, or Manchester Alan.
NEWS
A THIRD SHOP FOR SEAN BRYAN OF CUT & SEW Things are only looking up for barbering entrepreneur Sean Bryan, as we welcome his third establishment ‘Blindeye Barbershop’ to George’s Street Arcade, Dublin. Sean, when did you open Blindeye Barbershop up? We opened up in April 2016. Where is it located, and when can people drop in?
We have a speak easy in the back, so we now officially have a fully licensed bar in the back of the shop. I actually think it’s the first one in Irish history! It’s inspired by similar set ups in London, New York & Europe.
We are located in Georges Street Arcade. Opening hours are 10am-7pm Monday to Friday & 10-6pm on Saturday.
In Cut & Sew on Wellington Quay, when we opened we put an American pool table in it for the clients to interact with. A year or so ago that wasn't being done in Dublin.
What is unique about the new shop in comparison to the previous two?
When did the planning process for opening up the third shop begin?
Not too long ago to be honest, but with the shop’s name (Cut & Sew) growing in popularity we wanted to try a few new things and not become a franchise. We didn’t want to lose the personal touch we have, which is a huge part of why we are expanding under a different name. Did you find it easier this time around, having opened up the other two shops previously? Yes and no, opening a shop is very hard work. Of course it becomes easier, but every shop has it’s own worries & obstacles. This is the most intiricately thought out shop we have done, with artwork from New York and Japan - and now a bar. The door that leads into the speakeasy came from Harland & Wolff, which is where they made Titanic. Were the opening day nerves the same as when you opened your first outlet, or do things like that change as you grow? Opening day was the best one we have ever done, with loads of Cut & Sew's customers showing us support and even some barbers from other leading shops popping in for haircuts and to wishing us luck. How did you go about staffing it? We do monthly courses and hope to open an academy if and when we have the time, so we find talent that way. We get emails from barbers on a daily basis who are looking to join our team, as well people that love the brand and see what we do. At the minute we have the strongest team we have had to date, and with our artistic team we work exceptionally hard to be the best at what we do. Do you plan to keep expanding? It seems to be happening naturally, so if the customers keep coming in we’ll gladly look after as many men and women of Dublin as we can. We have refurbished both existing Cut & Sew shops every year since we opened, as that's the standard people expect. So yes, we are only getting started and should have even more exciting news very soon!
We didn’t want to lose the personal touch we have, which is a huge part of why we are expanding under a different name.
Shop photo by Lovin’ Dublin Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ Blindeyebarbershop Instagram: @blindeye_barbershop Resurva: https://blindeyebarbershop.resurva. com/book
NEWS
JOHN KEEGAN ANNOUNCED AS IHF BARBER OF THE YEAR In April of this year, John Keegan of the Academy Barber, Celbridge, won the coveted title of Barber of the Year. Not an easy feat, but the veteran title winner is taking things in his stride. Tell us a bit about your barbering background - when did you start doing competitions, and why? I started barbering 16 years ago with the Merchant Barbers in Temple Bar, the area was a totally different place then. The Merchant was a great place to work under the tuition of Bernard Breslin, it was very active in competitions when I started out so competing was just a natural part of my career from the beginning.
2004-1st place Men’s Free Style NIHF Awards 2004-1st place Men’s Fashion NIHF Awards 2004-All Ireland Barber Champion NIHF Awards 2004-2nd place Men’s Freestyle IHF Awards
What titles have you won to date?
2006-3rd place Men’s Freestyle IHF Awards
Haha great question - I hope you’re sitting down for this one:
2009-2nd Place Men’s Freestyle IHF Awards
2003-1st place Men’s Free Style IHF Awards
2014-Runner up L’Oreal Colour Trophy Men’s Image
2014-3rd place Alfaparf Fantastic Gents 2015-1st place Men’s Freestyle IHF Awards 2015-OMC International Silver Medal Paris Cup 2015-1st place Gent’s Colour & Blowdry NIHF Awards 2015-1st place Gent’s Full Fashion NIHF Awards 2016-1st place Men’s Classic IHF awards
I’ve learnt so much over the past few years whilst competing, each competition has its own set of rules, in terms of the models required etc., but they all require the same level of commitment and preparation.
2016-2nd place Men’s Classic IHF Awards 2016-1st Place Men’s Full Fashion IHF Awards 2016-IHF Barber of the Year 2016-L’Oreal Colour Trophy Men’s Image Finalist Have you learnt any invaluable lessons whilst taking part in competitions over the years? I’ve learnt so much over the past few years whilst competing, each competition has its own set of rules in terms of the models required etc., but they all require the same level of commitment and preparation. The most valuable lesson I have learnt is preparation, if you want to win you must prepare. If you really want to be the best barber in your area you need to prepare every day for your big moment. When competing, prepping weeks before the comp just isn’t good enough, you need to start at least 6 months before. If you want to win that’s what it takes, and trust me, if you don’t put the work in there will be someone who will, and at the end of the day they’ll be the winner. It’s a simple equation: Passion + Prep + Training = Winner This year you won the coveted title of IHF 'Barber of the Year' - could you take us through the process of entering and winning? It’s been such a great year for me
NEWS
I ended up changing the outfits 5 days before the competition. It’s hard to explain, but I just wasn’t getting that winning feeling - the looks weren’t working when I stood back and reflected on them.
winning ‘Barber of the Year’. To be eligible for the title, you have to enter the Men’s Full Fashion and Men’s Classic Cut categories of the IHF Awards. Then, your combined points in each section add up to (hopefully) win the title. Thankfully, I won the the Classic Cut and placed 1st and 2nd in the Men’s Fashion category, so I was the clear winner. It was amazing. I started picking my models from the September before the competition, and started to come up with the overall plan. I also prepped their hair for the competition (6 months prior), and began to show the models how they should pose etc. while on the competition floor. Attention to detail is everything, so everything needs to work well together; model, hair, clothes, makeup, the model’s pose, and the model’s presence. I picked out some clothes early on, but I ended up changing the outfits 5 days before the competition. It’s hard to explain, but I just wasn’t getting that winning feeling, the looks as weren’t working when I stood back and reflected on them. I practiced on my models every week, blowdrying, styling, trying out different ideas, and different styling. I also did my homework on who was entering, so I knew who I was up against and who I needed to beat. To be honest, it’s the part of competitions I love the most. I really love the prep, the stress, the planning, and the team building. I literally always say ‘why the hell do I do this to myself ’, but hey, I love it all really. For the Men’s Classic Cut, I had to cut my model’s hair on the floor. A minimum of 1 cm must be taken off the sides and back, with a tapered nape and clean mark out. The Men’s Fashion models were different in that they had to be presented, in other words, you had them done already no cutting or styling was required on floor. The Men’s Classic Cut is my favorite, it’s every barbers favorite. 25 minutes to cut and blowdry a classic freestyle look isn’t easy, and generally you’re up against the best in the country. It’s a different ball game cutting and styling under pressure, but thankfully I’ve managed to win it a good few
times now, and placed in the top 3 every other time I entered it. What does having the title of ' Barber of the Year' mean to you? I’m very proud and honoured to be recognised by the federation. And aslo the bragging rights are great too…haha. Do you have any advice for barbers just starting out on the competition circuit? I have loads of advice for anyone starting out in competition work, but I’d be here all day! There is one thing I say to everyone getting into this kind of stuff and it’s that if your fear of failure is greater than your passion for success, then you probably shouldn’t do competition work as it will eat you up and spit you out. In other words, don’t enter if you’re scared of not winning. Competitions take a lot of time to master and a serious amount of dedication to win. What's next for you? Well after competing in Paris for team Ireland last year, I’m now training every second Sunday for Paris 2017. You heard that right 2017! I’m entering the Bombage and Classic categories and they require hours of practice. I practice every second Sunday as a team with my good friend Richie Lalor of Platinum Barbers, Swords. I also spend an hour a day practicing by myself. We’re preparing as a team at the Academy Barber for the IHF Awards 2017, we have our sights set on bringing the trophy back. Finally, I’m traveling to L.A, San Diego and Canada in few weeks for Eufora Hero for Men. I’m doing a men’s hair photo shoot and teaching seminars over a two week period. I also have the final of the L’oreal Colour Trophy ‘Men’s image’ award to win in late June, haha. Or let’s hope so anyway. So I’ll be pretty busy for a while to say the least.
There is one thing I say to everyone getting into this kind of stuff and it’s that if your fear of failure is greater than your passion for success, then you probably shouldn’t do competition work.
www.academybarber.ie
BARBER MASTERCLASS
Paul Mac Special & The Darryn Pitman Barber Masterclass St Johns Hairdressing College On March 29th, a barbering masterclass was held in St John’s Central College, Cork by multi award winning barbers ‘Paul Mac Special’ & ‘The Darryn Pitman’. The only person to have won both Wahl ‘British Barber of the Year’ as well as Hairdressers Journal ‘British Barber of the Year’, Darryn is also an international educator, as well as a brand ambassador for British Master Barbers, Dear Barber, and Isa Training. Like Paul Mac, Darryn is a member of The Lions Barber Collective and an ambassador for Matakki Hairdressing Scissors. The course demonstrations on the day covered tight fading techniques, advanced texturizing, and creative clipperwork.
BARBER MASTERCLASS During the afternoon workshop, students worked on one live model in a style of their preference. Pictured below is Andrew O Sullivan, Winner of Schwarzkopf Munster Junior of the year, taking part .
For the cover shoot, (final image pictured above) Paul and Darryn went with a relaxed student vibe, with simple styling to draw attention to the hairstyles. Paul Mac went for two on-trend skin faded variations of mops of curls - an 80’s throwback with a modern twist, on first time models Jake Bennett & Oisin Brady (pictured middle and right). The three models, along with the expertise of Tim Caisley Photography, create a cover that wouldn’t look at all out of place on the walls of your local Topman store.
BARBER MASTERCLASS
Above and right: Hair by Darryn Darryn went full volume with a huge rockabilly Pomp on his model Nathan Adams, Mr Cork 2015. Assisting at the master class was Paul Mac’s junior, Joe Healy (@ joethebarber_ ). Joe is certainly one to watch, as his brother Aaron is the two time winner of ‘Irish Hairdresser of the Year’.
This page, left: Finished haircut by student, Andrew O’Sullivan. Middle: Finished cut by Paul Mac Special, on model Jake Bennett. Bottom: Upcoming barber @eoinmccarthyhair with a haircut by Paul Mac Special, who says Eoin is one of the best he’s ever trained and is now one of Ireland’s top young barbers.
Photographer Tim Caisley Photography Cover Models Nathan Adams, Oisin Brady, Jake Bennett Student Barber Andrew OSullivan Instagrams Barbers @paulmacspecial @thedarrynpitman Photographer @caisleyt Students @cutzbyandrew @eoinmccarthyhair Models @nathanadams95 @oisin_brady99 @jake_bennett22
UP & COMING IRELAND
GARETH MORIARTY’S TOP 5 YOUNG BARBERS My Name is Gareth Moriarty, I'm 17 years old and I work out of Sam's Barbers located in Dublin city centre. I’ve been cutting hair for about one year now, and have been fortunate enough to be surrounded by some of Dublin's best barbers since day one. I started off in Sam's in April of 2015, I was in transition year in secondary school and opted to take a week of work experience in Sam’s Barbers. Being the absolute gents that they are, they were more than happy to have me and welcomed me with open arms. From there I started working Saturdays up until the Summer sweeping the floors, taking bookings and washing hair. I spent the whole Summer watching each barber’s scissor work, clipper work and hot towel shaves. I performed my first haircut on May 19th last year under the eyes of the fantastic Robert Flynn. Rob has brought me a long long way and I genuinely can't thank him enough. If it wasn't for Rob, I can promise you I wouldn't be where I am today! He's guided me in all fields of this fantastic craft and has taught me all he knows, as well as new things he picks up
along the way. A lot of young barbers have been inspired by Rob's work, you can see what I’m talking about over on his Instagram account @wolfgangbarber. It's crazy and amazing to see so many people under the age of 20 take to the trade so well and have a natural knack for it. Barbering is an ever growing industry and is definitely bigger now then it has ever been. More and more lads have started to actually take care of their looks putting money into their hair and clothes etc. Looking at all the young barbers across Ireland, I can honestly say that the future for Irish barbering is bright. To see what I get up to and some of my work follow me on Instagram @barbermoriarty.
In my opinion these are the top 5 young barbers in Ireland at the moment, but there are so so many talented young barbers out there that the list is potenitally endless. Here are my 5 in no particular order. Glen Maher Glen works out of Jack’s Barbers just off Talbot Street in Dublin city centre. Before I started this trade, I used to get my hair cut off of Glen and I was always so happy with it. In fact, I still get my haircut by him. To see his fantastic work hit up his Instagram @glenscuts.
Looking at all the young barbers across Ireland, I can honestly say that the future for Irish barbering is bright.
Adam Newman Adam works out of Westend Barbers in Raheny, outside of the city centre. Adam's work is so clean for someone who is younger than 20, and he's worked up a huge clientele. When you check out his Instagram, @adamnewmanhair, all you will see is clean cut after clean cut. Colin McConnell This gent works out of Blindeye Barbershop in George's Arcade and absolutely loves his job. On his days off he goes into the shop to watch the other barbers cut so he can keep educating himself. It's mad how fast he's burst out onto the scene, but I'm not surprised at all. You can catch his work @collies_cuts on Instagram. Conrad Kelly This lad comes all the way from Kelly's, his family owned barbershop in Castlebar, Mayo. He’s only 17 like myself and has trained under Robert Flynn aswell ,so it's no wonder how he's so good at cutting hair. I've been to the family owned shop twice and always left with a great haircut. You can see Conrad's work at @conrad_kelly8899. Aaron Monaghan Aaron is another 17 year old who is absolutely killing it. I had the opportunity to cut this lads hair and we had an in depth chat about every single aspect of barbering. If you're looking for a trim out in the Lucan region hit him up at @aaronmonaghan98.
BARBER CUT DUBLIN
APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR On October 2nd, Barber Cut Dublin will bring the Irish barbering community together to celebrate all things great in the industry. As part of this celebration, we think it’s important that barbering apprentices are recongised for all their hard work. What we’ve come up with is an ‘Apprentice of the Year’ award, which has been put in place to recognise and honour the start of the journey an apprentice will endure in order to eventually become a fully fledged barber. Barber Cut Dublin are calling out to every barber shop in Ireland to nominate someone they are proud to have in their shop. Please send us a mail on barbercutdublin@gmail.com while keeping these points in mind. What will be looked at is the story of their journey to date? How important is the role of this person? How do you feel this person will end up in years to come?
Image by Ross Waldron
MASTERS
FRANK HACKETT AWARDED MASTER CRAFTSMAN AWARD We would like to offer a big congratulations to Frank Hackett, owner of Retro Barbershop, Limerick on being the first barber in Ireland to br awarded the ‘Master Craftsman in Barbering’ title by the Hair Council. Frank works tirelessly to get the Irish barbering trade the recognition and respect it deserves, and we can’t think of a more apporporiate recipient for the title. Take a look at Frank’s work: Instagram: @retrobarbershop www.retrobarbers.ie
FEATURED SHOP
Frank's Barber Shop Crumlin By Frank McIntyre After 16 years of barbering in Crumlin village, I decided to take a giant leap of faith. In February 2015, I opened a modern shop with an emphasis on quality haircuts in a contemporary environment. The idea for the shop came from a plan to inject life into a jaded barber shop, and to be honest a jaded barber. After a month, Alan Graham joined me. With seven years barbering experience in Crumlin, and fresh from finishing the Dublin School of Barbering Advanced Course, he was the right man for the job.
All photo credits Cathyweatherstonphotography Evandohertyphotography
The shop was going from strength to strength, and soon Laura Buggle joined us. At this stage we were open four months and had three full time barbers. Laura brought knowledge and skills from hairdressing as well as barbering, which in my mind is so important in contemporary barber work. We still couldn't keep up with the demand, so Vaiva Juozaityte joined
our team next. With nine years experience barbering in Dublin, Vaiva is an amazingly skilled barber with plenty to bring to the table. The shop is lively and vibrant, we find ourselves doing everything fromskin fades and pompadours to Grandad’s short back and sides, as well as little boy’s first haircuts. We do it all! We always use the latest products along with the most up to date equipment and techniques to ensure the best finish. Social media is of great importance to us as it ensures that we keep our standards high. Our customers have taken to this, wondering when their photo will feature! We also use it to keep up with the work of cutting edge barbers and to see what the look on the street is. With a team of four top class barbers pushing each other on, our plan is to continue growing and to be the dominating barbering force in the area.
Alan
Laura
I'm a passionate barber with a love for the craft and an eye for detail. I strive to offer a personal touch to each customer I have the pleasure of looking after. I love to learn, I'll continue to learn until the day I retire - it's important to move forward.
I started in hairdressing ten years ago, but got really into barbering over the last four years. It’s noticeable to me that men are taking more interest in grooming and fashion these days. It's great to see!
On this haircut, I've got to read the natural direction and flow of the hair and create something modern and manageable for the client when he leaves the salon. I've started by finding the natural parting and setting in a base line from the temple to the back of the head. Then starting with a half guard, I faded up to my base line, while trying to keep a nice square shape to the cut.
This boom has given me the opportunity to push my barbering skills and give advice on how to manage the latest styles as well as the best products to use. Pictures are so important, and it’s fantastic to use social media such as Instagram, or even a client’s own ideas from pictures they have on their phones.
I finished the fade using scissors over comb to polish it up. On top, I point cut in horizontal sections from back to front - splitting the hair into three even rows and keeping the fringe longer towards the front. Then I added some clay product to the damp hair and lightly blow dried it into a textured finish.
I love the challenge of using different methods to add texture and movement. To finish, I use my blow drying skills to give the best look. Working in Frank’s has allowed me to perfect many of my barbering skills, I learn so much from this fantastic crew.
Vaiva I started my career in barbering/ hairdressing back in Lithuania where I studied as an image style designer. Shortly after qualifying, I immigrated to Ireland and started working here as a barber. I have noticed a growing change in barbering, as people nowadays take more pride in their look, style and design. For me, this change continually renews my love for the job. Over the years I’ve developed a passion for beard trims, as they can add so much character. While certain hair styles may trend, a beard can add a whole new dynamic to an individual’s look. I’ve added a picture of one of my customers with his new beard shape. A lot of time went into styling his beard as well as his hair, and for me his beard was as important as the hair style itself. This image also highlights my point of how a beard can bring a new dimension to a person’s look.
Frank With 30 years experience in hairdressing, 24 of which are in barbering, I feel equally at home with a scissors and comb as with a clippers. Be it a standard scissors haircut or a taper using clipper over comb, years of practice allow me to execute these methods with ease. My favourite clipper cut is a high skin fade. I love the challenge of blending in my fade over a very small area. Mix that up with a modern crop, heavy on top or pomp it up, and I’m in my element. While I have all those years of experience, the challenge for me over the past year has been to adapt and build upon my skills, keeping my work relevant. Contact the shop Facebook: facebook.com/ FranksBarberShopCrumlin Phone: 01-4551851 Instagram: @franksbarbershopcrumlin Address: Crumlin Village, Dublin 12
THE BUSINESS POST
Rook Ready Having opened their second successful shop this year, Darren Lenihan of the Rook Barbers talks everything from refined interiors to recruitment.
The Rook Barbers was established in June 2014 at the Ramparts Road in Dundalk, Co. Louth. Just two years later, we opened our second store on Railway Street in Navan town. I think part of our success is down to the fact that we recognised there was a massive shift in men's grooming with regard to styling and the overall grooming experience. Men simply expect more of a modern shop/salon now. We wanted to be part of that and to help the industry to grow. I would classify the ethos of the shop as "Gentleman’s Club". We felt that women were more than catered for when it came to the number, and more crucially the variety, of hairdressing salons available, and that men seemed to be an after thought in this area. So, we wanted to create a place that would be for the guys! We invested heavily in the fit out of the shops in order to reflect this ethos, giving it that old school feel, but with a modern twist. We make a huge effort to be customer focused, so while that may mean slightly longer waiting times, we feel that every paying customer deserves the very best haircut and experience we can give them. Our simple tag line is 'For the man who wants the look, the Rook'. We see the whole spectrum of clients in our shops - young and old. Chaps as young as five and six are getting very particular when it comes to their hair styles, as any Mum will tell you! However, our main clientele are teenagers, they’re pushing us as barbers to come up with new and different cuts all the time, rather than your general #2 back and sides. This keeps your day’s work very interesting.
We don't operate an appointment system, and welcome everyone and anyone to share the Rook experience. I started my career as a hairdresser and spent many years in that industry, so my main industry inspiration comes from Vidal Sassoon. He inspired so many people with his bold and experimental ways of thinking - he really set the industry benchmark that we all have to live up to. In regards to my current barbering career, I have to say that Instagram inspires me. It’s full of barbers that are increasing their levels of expertise on a monthly basis. That’s why I love what I do so much, it’s always changing and there is still so much to learn. We currently employ four staff members and are looking to recruit more. Finding the right staff is the single biggest issue we have found in our time in business. We contacted all the academies in Dublin in our hunt for employees, but Dublin School of Barbering was the main one that we got good feedback from. We’re hoping to have a long and happy relationship with them in regards to recruitment. We’ve been fortunate enough with the staff we’ve recruited. They come to us with great basic barbering skills and brilliant customer service skills, but of course they require the requisite amount of time and training in one of our shops before we consider them ‘Rook Ready’. Our main focuses are currently: -Upskilling -Staying on trend -Delivering customer centric quality haircuts in a top class environment Who knows, maybe a training
school is a possibility at some future date. So it’s onwards and upwards from here, there are exciting times ahead for the Rook. As mentioned previously, we opened our second store about four months ago and it's going great. We also established our own hair and beard product range for the shops, it’s simply called 'The Rook'. With their old school packaging and their very own hashtag #ROOKFRESH, the products have been flying off the shelves. We've had enquiries from the US and UK about our range, and we hope to have our online business up and running to cater for this demand before the end of the year. We may also look into franchising into the future. Facebook The ROOK Barbers - Dundalk The ROOK Bareber - Navan Instagram @the_rook_barbers Twitter @THE_ROOK_barber
PRODUCTS
How do you keep a great head of hair whatever your age? We spoke to Dr Kurt Wolff, the prodcuers of Alpecin on the science behind their Caffeine Liquid and why men of all ages should be giving it a try.
Alpecin’s Caffeine Complex extends the growth phases of hair roots back to their natural length, helping men to avoid shortened growth cycles from puberty onwards.
The team at Dr Kurt Wolff, based in Bielefeld, Germany, has a long tradition of researching and developing innovative cosmetic products. You may already have heard of their Alpecin range from television adverts - a line of hair care products for men that aim to help with preventing hair loss. Alpecin’s Caffeine Liquid contains active ingredients that stimulate the hair follicles, but how does it actually work? We asked them to reveal the process in greater detail. “To explain how it works, we need to get into the science of hair. You see, the hair grows in phases; it grows, falls out, and a new hair takes it’s place. This is referred to as the ‘growth cycle’. The growth cycle of each hair follicle is completely individual, which is why your hair doesn’t all just fall out in one go. Each hair root only has a
limited number of growth cycles before it goes into a permanent resting state, meaning that the hair root cannot grow a hair ever again. Every root has about 15 of them in it’s lifetime, with each cycle lasting 3-6 years. What is interesting is that the increasing influence of testosterone from puberty onwards can have quite a negative effect on some men’s growth cycles. If a man’s hair root turns out to be sensitive to testosterone, the growth cycle can be shortened. As a result, the 15 times your hair is set to grow back will take place over a much shorter period of time. That is what may lead to increased hair loss at an earlier age. This is where Alpecin comes into play - the caffeine-containing active ingredient combination counteracts the inherited undesirable effect of testosterone on the hair roots. It protects the hair roots and extends
the growth phases back to their natural length. That’s how the long term use of Alpecin can fight hereditary hair loss. If you feel as though your hair is starting to thin out, now is the time to start using Alpecin Caffeine Liquid. What you do is simply massage the Liquid directly into the scalp so it can travel down the hair follicle and form an active ingredient depot lasting up to 24 hours. The Liquid can be applied to dry hair, but we do recommend using it in the morning after washing your hair for optimal results.” So, would the results be the same if I just put caffeine on my hair? “People often picture a cup of coffee when we mention caffeine, but since you ingest coffee orally, it will first pass through the gastrointestinal organs to be absorbed by the organism at a later time. Subsequently, it is distributed
Alpecin’s Product Range
throughout the body and only a tiny quantity reaches the scalp and the hair roots directly. As a result, a local and direct supply of caffeine is meaningful and necessary. Even the consumption of 50 cups of coffee would not provide the hair roots with enough caffeine.” How has Alpecin been received by the Irish market? “Once men learn how to use the Caffeine Liquid, they love it.” http://www.dr-kurt-wolff.com/ http://www.alpecin.co.uk/
DOPING ONLY FOR HAIR oo ts , Ava il ab le at B ar ke ts m le ad in g su p er ie s. & p h ar m ac
DOPING? Today, we know caffeine helps protect hair from the negative impact of testosterone. This means that it can help to reduce hair loss. More and more men – not just athletes – swear by the caffeine formulas from Alpecin. IMPORTANT: Caffeine is safe for at h letes as it is no longer included in t he doping list but it is still being monitored. * *Caffeine is no longer on the doping list, even though many athletes still use it to enhance their performance. See discussions of studies by M. Stuart, ‘Do athletes and WADA differ in their perception of caffeine as a performance enhancing drug’, BMJ Clin. Evidence 2008.
DOPING FOR YOUR HAIR ONLY FOR HAIR.
PRODUCTS
Father’s Day ideas for your Barbershop On June 19th we celebrate our ‘Auld Fellas’, more commonly known the world over as our Fathers. The day can often be overlooked, seen as unimportant or over extravagant, but when you think about it - when was the last time you actually thanked the Father figure in your life for all they have done for you? People the world over people take Father’s Day as an opportunity to thank their Dads and pay tribute to them. We can also use it as an occasion not just to thank our Dads, but also our Grandfathers, Uncles, Stepfathers, or any other person who has taken up a Fatherly role in our lives. Barbershops are in the unique position of existing within a very masuline industry, whereby everyone coming into your shop is more than likely a Father or thinking of purchasing something special for their Father figure ahead of June 19th. Barbers and Groomers are here to help with celebrating the men in our lives. Their website is packed to the brim with creative product bundles for your barbershop - just what your customers will be after in the lead up to Father’s Day. www.barbersandgroomers.ie
WIN! WIN! WIN! The perfect Father’s Day present from barbersandgroomers.ie Win the complete range from Scaramouche + Fandango, the award winning Men’s grooming range from London. Scaramouche + Fandango are changing the face of male grooming by putting the simplicity back into skincare. Choosing to ditch the complex oversell that can often accompany products on the market, the brand is focusing on delivering a range that looks good and simply performs. Enter this competition to win: Shampoo (Sh), Conditioner (Cd), Body Wash (Bw), Face Scrub (Fs), Shave Cream (Sc), Hydrator (Hy) and an innovative 4 in 1 Sports Wash (Sw). The range also includes a wash bag. HOW TO ENTER Simply visit the Dublin School of Barbering Facebook page (facebook.com/dublinbarberschool) and like and share the pinned competition post. Winner announced June 13th - good luck!
PRODUCTS
What’s in my kit bag? Since I started hairdressing I’ve always tried out different tools; cordless clippers, boar bristle brushes, large 6.5 scissors and at the other end of the scale, a 4.5 inch scissors. During the last 4 years I’ve retained some of these tools, whilst passing others on to colleagues. Kian Marc Ballance, Kazumi
I think your equipment should reflect your type of hair cutting/hair styling. Working in different salons gives you the chance to use different types of tools and see what others are using. You’ll see that some barbers and hair stylists use a thinning scissors and some don't. While some use round brushes, and then some don't. For myself, the more I’ve developed my own individual style, the more my equipment has evolved also. Training in Sassoon's in London, I feel I got the best education possible. My education was diverse and taught me how to cut hair beautifully and very technically, as well as how to style hair with varying tools. My kit bag has been relatively untouched since I left Sassoon's. Not because of habit, but because the techniques and tools worked very well for me. If it's not broken don't fix it, right?
Here's a look at my main tools: Scissors 5 inch, rose gold, wings . Image 1 I bought this scissors at the Sassoon Academy during the release of the Kidhood collection. They’re without a doubt the best scissors I’ve used and I’ll have them in my bag forever. 6.5 inch, silver, kata. This was my first real scissors. Very useful for long hair, and taking bulk and length down with the scissor over comb technique. Combs In my opinion, this is your most important tool apart from your scissors. Your comb is what connects you to the hair you are working on. Tension in hair cutting is often overlooked, but if you spend money on your combs you don't need to worry about this. If the teeth are too wide then it won't comb hair clean. If they are too fine, it could have too much tension, plus - it doesn't feel comfortable having your hair pulled for the duration of a haircut. Y.S. Park cutting combs. Image 2 I probably own 6 or 7 of these. They’re sometimes hard to get in
Ireland, so when you do find them - get them in bucket loads! I usually use the smaller comb, but have the larger one also. Denman Basin comb. Image 3 The only other comb I use. I believe this is the best for clipper over comb. When cutting men's hair, I often use this comb to get the basic shape on the back and sides with scissor over comb. I then taper the hair lines with Y.S. Park comb to get a more finished result.
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Styling brushes 9 row vess brush. Great for straightening and smoothening hair. Vent brush. Image 4 This is a brush that's been around for years. Great for putting volume, movement and a finish on the hair.
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Clipper guards I use clipper guards up to a #no.3. I'm a Wahl guy, so I use the colour coded Wahl clipper guards. A great tip is to purchase the #no.1/2 and #no.11/2 guards. These will blend seamlessly. Clippers Cordless Wahl Super-Taper. Image 5 I do a lot of men's work with scissors, so I find this ideal as it's very light weight and doesn't get caught around the chair with cords. If I was to use a clippers on every gent I do, then I would probably recommend a more powerful clippers. All of my equipment is carried around in my kit bag from the Sassoon Academy. I’d recommend this bag to every barber/hairstylist. I’m currently cutting hair in Kazumi Hair Salon on Molesworth Street. If you want more details about my tools, haircuts, etc, please follow me on Instagram at @Ballancehairdesign.
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