Ice Climbing

from Southwest Colorado Winter Guide 2021-22

Backcountry Skiing

OUTDOORS

Ice-Climbing

The steep canyons and gradual peaks in the San Juan Mountains provide some dynamic ice structures for adventurous mountaineers to climb. However, ice climbing is not an activity you can do without a little firsthand experience. Climbers should understand basic safety and ice climbing techniques before embarking on an excursion in alpine terrain. Even if you don’t need a lesson, it is still a good idea to consult a local gear shop or guide about current ice conditions and available routes.

Ice Route Grade

HOSSENFEFFER FALLS

This area near Vallecito Lake usually forms a variety of lowgrade and technical terrain for climbers, which makes it a good place to bring beginners. To get there, travel on County Road 501 to Middle Mountain Road and make a left. Drive 4.5 miles to the parking area near a gate. Hike less than a half-mile up the road to South Bear Creek. The drainage and the falls are just below the roadway.

CASCADE CANYON

This natural ice park features reliable flows varying from W13 to W15. Cascade Canyon is located about 27 miles north of Durango, past Purgatory Resort. Turn right on Old Lime Creek Road following the sharp curve over Cascade Creek. Follow the road for a few minutes and park at the small pull out on the right side.

TREASURE FALLS

About 15 miles east of Pagosa Springs, ice climbers can access a frozen waterfall over 100 feet in length. To reach the falls, park in the lot on the east side of the road on Wolf Creek Pass before you reach the ski resort, and hike a quarter mile to the falls.

SOUTH MINERAL CREEK

At South Mineral Creek, climbs range from W13 to W15. To reach this area, travel north on Highway 550 toward Ouray from Silverton for about two miles. At the sign for South Mineral Campground, pull off and park in the lot off Forest Road 585. Ski or snowshoe between 3 and 5 miles to reach a variety of different routes.

BEAR CREEK FALLS

Combine an ice climbing and another winter adventure in one, and travel to Telluride’s Bear Creek Preserve. To reach the trailhead that leads to the falls, drive on Colorado Avenue in downtown, and turn south on Pine Street. Pine Street turns into a dirt road, which is Bear Creek Trail. Park in the lot or off the road, and hike or bike 2.5 miles to the falls. WI2 Low-angle ice (60º and below) OURAY ICE PARK W13 Slightly steeper ice (60-70º) The Ouray Ice Park in the with occasional and short near- Uncompahgre Gorge is a humanvertical sections made venue located inside city W14/W14+ Near-vertical ice; routes graded with + are highly technical limits. The park has more than 100 routes and 11 distinct climbing areas with a mix of W15/W15+ Near-vertical to vertical low-angle and steep terrain in a ice with few good rest opportunities one-mile span. The park also hosts W16/W16+ Totally vertical with no events, and offers lessons and rests, requiring a high level of fitness guided adventures. Opening day and technical skill is currently scheduled for Dec. 14, W17 Sustained overhanging ice weather permitting.

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