ESIGN
ESIGN
AVE
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JAVE
C R E A T I V E
L A B
M
JAVE
C R E A T I V E
L A B
L A B
AVE L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
ABOUT MOJAVE Good design lands somewhere between the abstract and concrete worlds of art and science Since 2009, Mojave Creative Lab has been creating innovative
in the outdoor industry. His work ranges from simple digital
designs in scientific method to ensure you’re stoked and your
campaigns to complex print publications, tiny web ads to large
market is moved.
scale tradeshow graphics. On any given day, Mojave Creative Lab
Mojave is a full service creative, priding itself in unmatched
produces advertising material, websites, email and social media
design, incredible service, and timely turn-arounds. David has
campaigns, infographics, branding material, event collateral,
art directed and designed publications with distribution well
tradeshow signage, print collateral, and more. Good design
over 50,000, has had his work published on USA Today, and has
happens and is necessary, everywhere. For a quote, contact David
branded events featuring the most notable people and companies
at dboersma@mojavecreativelab.com
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
M
JAVE
M
JAVE
mailers
e-newsletters
invitations
presentations
tradeshow
and loads more
C R E A T I VDIGITAL E L A B PRINT magazine layout
websites
posters socialL A B C R E A T I V E
[This page] David and his wife Tara drying off after a surf session. Mondo Beach, CA. Gretchen Davis [Cover] Mountain Khakis ambassador Eric Bouwman and Patagonia Environmental Programs Associate Paul Hendricks slog up to base camp. Uneva Pass, CO. David Boersma
mojavecreativelab.com
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ABOUT THE DAVID David Boersma, Art Director at Mojave Creative Lab has worked
Airwalk®, Obermeyer®, Filson®, Cushe®, Palladium®, Above
on behalf of a multitude brands, particularly in the outdoor and
The Rim®, Skis.com, The American Alpine Club, Travaasa®
travel industries. This includes world-renowned brands: Merrell®,
Experiential Resorts, Park Hyatt Beaver Creek®, The Brown
Otterbox®, Incase®, K•SWISS®, REI®, Levi’s®, New Era Cap®,
Palace Hotel & Spa®, and many more. When not laying out designs or scouring the world for the latest trends, like every other Coloradoan he’s typically found tucked away somewhere in the Rocky Mountains backpacking, snowboarding, or climbing with his wife and two dogs, cooler in tow. His daily routine didn’t always consist of of a low-key climb and craft beer. Prior to moving to Colorado, David hiked much of the Appalachian Trail and motorcycled the length of the Andes Mountains throughout South America. While now settled and married, he still tries to live his life in ways that continue to look beyond the familiar. If you’d like to explore working with David, contact him at dboersma@mojavecreativelab.com
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My creative inspiration is the result of experiencing a world much bigger than myself.
mojavecreativelab.com
[This page, Top] David and his wife at his hometown’s first annual Pride Festival. Holland, MI. [This page, Bottom Left] School children. Tanzania. David Boersma [This page, Bottom Right] Boy fishing. Zanzibar. David Boersma [Facing Page] David leaving Machu Picchu. Ollantaytambo, Peru.
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CLIENTS FILSON REI EVO ROCK + FITNESS MOONLIGHT BASIN NEW ERA CAP
MERRELL
OTTERBOX
SKIS.COM
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION PARADOX SPORTS OBERMEYER K•SWISS
AIRWALK
INCASE
TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS
*only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for
One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park, Colorado. David Boersma
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mojavecreativelab.com
BRAND: AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
GUIDEBOOK
PROJECT: GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
TO MEMBERSHIP
For two years running, David has art directed
photographers, writers, and companies
and designed the American Alpine Club’s
in the outdoor industry. Supported in
annual Guidebook to Membership, a 100 page
advertising from Alpinist, Adidas, Five Ten,
archival quality publication. In process, he
Black Diamond, LOWA, and Patagonia, the
has had the opportunity to work hand-
Guidebook to Membership sees an annual
in-hand with some of the most reputable
print distribution of 30,000 copies.
VIEW ONLINE
2014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
MEMBERSHIP
THROUGH THE LENS
POURING DOWN,
POWERED BY:
RISING UP
This is your Club. These are your photos. We are the AAC. We are climbers, stewards of the outdoors. We are doers. And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic. Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action, doing what they love.
by Tony Chang, photos by Ken Etzel
T
We had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible Hulk, the Harding Route on Keeler Needle, and Dark Star on Temple Crag. I had dreamed about climbing these routes since my infancy as a rock climber. And this was the last of Peter Croft’s “Big Four�—Mount Conness. As we dropped into one of the gullies to reach the base, its sheer 1,200’ southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation. And there was one more reason Conness was last on our ticklist.
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“I guess we found the route,â€? I said to Luke, pointing at the Goodrich Memorial. “Let’s just get it done with.â€? In 1959, after Warren Harding’s landmark ascent of the Nose, the southwest face of Mount Conness was a logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers. If siege tactics could work on El Capitan, why not this overhanging alpine face? Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter, a WHDP H[SHULHQFHG LQ Č´UVW DVFHQWV LQ WKH 6LHUUD VWHSSHG XS
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to the challenge. On his maiden attempt of the wall, Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch. Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward, it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall. A few months later, Harding, Herb Swedlund, and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent. With Goodrich’s blood still staining the wall, they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method: lots of pitons, drilled bolts, and wine. We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top. The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess, turning our 5.9 into something of a 5.10+ insecure slab. But Luke, the technician, took it down with a smile. If you met him on the street, you’d think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey. He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee, California. However, under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete. Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple
tight and watched him take his time, clearly tired from the week, as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney. I followed, thankful I didn’t have to lead that terror show. I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast. With the last hard pitch done, we were elated. All the suffering would soon be over. The months of training had paid off. There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining. Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile. He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures, but the upper 3rdand 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldn’t find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads. “Looks like we got to the top just in time for a storm,� I said, nodding to dark clouds circling above. “Nah, it’s been like this all day,� Ken replied. “But it hasn’t done
Want to see your photos in next year’s Guidebook to Membership? Send to photo@americanalpineclub.org
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Indian Creek, UT 19
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MEMBERSHIP
LIVE Y M OUR
DREA THE
NT AAC GRA powered
FOR THE
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Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (5.11c). AAC member Niko Monteiro
THROUGH THE LENS
ENTURER
Y ADV EVERY-DA
POWERED BY:
by
“
I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY, BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS. I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT.
3,000’+ climbing days in the Sierra, Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering. We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school. I had moved to Flagstaff, Arizona primarily for school, but also for the great access to local climbing. Learning to climb in California, my most memorable, major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra. Given our collective climbing backgrounds, Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives. We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft, so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals, I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four. Somehow we landed the grant, and there we were: on a massive alpine face, our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10,000 feet. Pitch 2 is the technical crux. Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up. Deal. It was a wild bit of rock climbing—one of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time. I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof. Blistering sun hit me at 11 a.m. as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth, large crystals chewing through my skin. Halfway up I placed my only #6 Camalot. The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 5.8, a grade on which I’m considerably more comfortable. Unfortunately, the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago. I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet, but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it. I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam. Awesome. The remaining offwidth, although semi-secure, was not easy moving. I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay, blood soaking through the legs of my pants. I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident. Luke rocketed up, reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didn’t make it. He led the last crux—the most intimidating part of the route—a steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney. When Luke got there, his last piece was a ways to his left, with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it. I kept the belay
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anything on this side of the valley.â€? He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo. Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke. “It’s these beetles that are around here,â€? Ken reassured, uneasiness in his voice. “I’ve been hearing it all day.â€? Luke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside. His hair was sticking on end, face white, eyes bulging. “I just felt a shock go through my spine!â€? he yelled as he made a mad dash back down the talus. We followed. The buzzing was now almost deafening. “Drop your gear!â€? Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground. My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps. I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain, thunder echoing above. “Dammit!â€? I yelled over to the guys. We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below, so we’d have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat. I’d never been too concerned about lightning before, having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country. This was different. I could see lightning striking less than a mile away, closing in fast. “Get that camera away from me!â€? I yelled at Ken, afraid that the metal could attract electricity. Cold rain hit us; we begin to shiver. During a short break in the rain, we made a run for the top. The buzzing grew more intense, and my arm hair came back to life. “No! Go back down!â€? With lightning and virga drawing closer, we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from. I fell a few times on the summit talus, and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate. A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly. I considered trying the summit again, but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down. There was nothing to do but wait. [Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm. • [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness.
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Bishop, CA 54
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Jon Fait, of Gibbon Slacklines, representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Craggin’ Classic. AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
Eastern Sierra, CA Climb hard, party harder. AAC member Jeremy Dreier
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My mind was racing, angry and confused. We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it. The irony! Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing. Live Your Dream? More like Live Your Nightmare. It was 15 more minutes of misery, shivering, and fear before the storm broke. This time the rain stopped. We took the opportunity to make another run for the summit—no buzzing this time. We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs. High fives and cheers all around. We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives. The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds, and something changed. I realized that this is what we had come for. To experience the intensity and the doubt. To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the “real world.� Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks. We all love those bluebird days at the crag, catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches, but those aren’t the days you remember. It’s those times you had to bivy at 14,000’, happy to be alive the next day. It’s those times when you can’t get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before. It’s the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive. This was one of those memories, one we will never forget.
THROUGH THE LENS POWERED BY:
1. Stansbury Island, UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a winter ascent. Â No supplemental oxygen required. AAC member Craig Armstrong 2. Little Rock City, TN Whitney Boland, Tenessee Thong (V7). AAC member Dan Brayack 3. North Woodstock, NH No pressure... Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival. AAC member Ian MacLellan 4. Bartlett, NH
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Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere. 2013 Craggin’ Classic. AAC member Bryan Rafferty 4
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5. Yosemite National Park, CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan. AAC member Cheyne Lempe
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LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT All climbers have dreams. Let us help you live yours. The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you, the every-day adventurer, take your abilities to the next level.
BETA • More than $30,000 available • Apply January 1 – March 1 • Winners announced 4–6 weeks after application period ends • All climbing disciplines welcome • Apply through your local region • Max grant amounts of $1,000
! TONY CHANG • Bozeman, MT Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman. He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science, while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons.
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americanalpineclub.org/liveyourdream
[This Page, Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit. • [This Page, Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croft’s “Big Fourâ€?—Mount Conness. • [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await.
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BRAND: AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB PROJECT: ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD) In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing, the American
was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600
Alpine Club hosted it’s annual benefit dinner alongside some of the
people from around the world. As the Club’s Graphic Designer,
greatest climbers of all time. Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard
David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative.
THE
AMERICAN
ALPINE
CHOUINARD
YOSEMITE OUR PIONEERING SPIRIT PRESENTED BY
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CLUB
BRAND: AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB PROJECT: RENEWAL MAILER The American Alpine Club, founded in 1902, is the premier
rates. With clear-cut calls to action, inspiring graphics, and
climbing organization in the United States. With over 14,000
focused messaging, the mailers have consistently proven highly
members, consistent support is key to its growth. David
successful for the rapidly expanding organization.
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
Your AAC Membership Expires: [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
RENEW TODAY
Hi [INFORMAL], This is your last mailing before your membership expires! Together, we share a passion for climbing. And as a member of the AAC, you’re part of a tribe that’s making a big difference. We support each other with rescue benefits, critical lodging facilities, conservation projects, advocacy, grants, discounts and more. Without you, none of this would be possible. We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone. Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today.
Visit
americanalpineclub.org/renew
Thanks for your support,
Call
303-384-0110 x110
Phil Powers, Executive Director
Completed renewal form AAC member Andrew Burr
TOGETHER, WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE YES—KEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVE! I want to continue to receive AAC member benefit and keep supporting the climbing community. JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
• Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership • Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes, your membership will renew automatically in years to come. You’ll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year, should you wish to change your preference. You will not receive print renewal solicitation. Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community. Members on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions. o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partners o Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
Auto Renew
o Regular $70
o Regular $80
o Junior $35
o Junior $45 (Under 29)
o Sr. $45
o Sr. $55 (Over 65)
o Joint $125 o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________ o Canada/Mexico add $30 for postage
o Other foreign address add $40
I’d like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gift: o $50
o $150
o $300
o $500
o Other __________________________
Total Payment Amount $ ___________________
Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________ CC# ______________________________________________ Expiration __________ Signature __________________________________________ CVV#______________ JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS: Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings, but both members have access to all other benefits.
Secondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________ Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________ Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
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BRAND: AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
Members
PROJECT: T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
13,000
bus t-shirt campaign
As a membership organization, the American Alpine Club depends on biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership.
11,000
As a join/renewal insentive, David designed a t-shirt and coinciding phrase , “Get on the bus. We’ve got mountains to climb.” The t-shirt prompted incredible feedback, significantly increased brand profile,
9,000
Completed join form (include credit card info or check)
Call
303-384-0110 x110 Mention code: AAC-BUS
For a limited time, when you join the AAC community, you’ll receive our new “Bus to Mountains” t-shirt for free! Made with a soft, poly/cotton blend, this shirt inspires the start of an adventure! Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st, t-shirt included.
Visit
americanalpineclub.org/join Enter promo code corresponding w/ t-shirt size: AAC-BUS-XS, AAC-BUS-S, AAC-BUS-M, AAC-BUS-L, AAC-BUS-XL, AAC-BUS-XXL
AAC Member Corey Rich
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFER!
Join the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt. JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
[FULL NAME] [ADDRESS 1] [ADDRESS 2] [CITY], [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT!
DM_V2.indd 1
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• Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership • Never worry about your membership expiring By checking the box, your membership will renew automatically in years to come. You’ll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year, should you wish to change your preference. You will not receive print renewal solicitation. Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community.
9/5/13 12:14 PM
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FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
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7,000
112-year history of the Club.
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and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
E ri k R i e g e r
Art Director E ri k R i e g e r
BRAND: AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r n
PROJECT: THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
M i c h i ko A ra i
Contributing editors Fre d e ri c k O. Jo h n s o n , Club Activities D av i d S te ve n s o n , Book Reviews D av i d W i l ke s , In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p s Je re my Co l l i n s , Je s s e C ro c k , Jo e I u rato , 2014 M i ke C le l l a n d , A n n a R i l i n g CONTENTS Volume 56 Issue 88
THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL
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2014
Indexers
A n n a p u r n a , by U eli S t eck & Ya n n ick Gr a z ian i
Two extraordinary ascents of the south face
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R a l p h Fe r ra ra , Eve Ta l l m a n
N o w e a k s h i t, by s co t t a da ms o n
A 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
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K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t, by H an s jö r g A u er
T r a n s l at o r s
The first ascent of a Karakoram giant
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L e a r n i n g t o wa l k , by r a p h ael s lawin s k i
Pe te r Je n s e n - C h o i , Z by s e k Ce s e n e k , ang razi, Ta m ot45s uGa mlN a ka m u ra , He n r y P i c k fo rd , S i m o n e S t u r m ,52ETakate ri n a Vo rot n i kov a , X i a Z h o n g m i n g l u n g, Lessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
by A n d y T y s o n
Exploring northern Myanmar’s mysterious mountains
by mar ek H o lecek
A favorite partner, a final summit
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R e g i o n a l c o n tac t s
W i l d s p o r t, by Jo n at h a n s iegr is t
The future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
64rPu u r gat i o n , by Ch r is wr igh t G h n , Alaska ;
S te ve D re w B ray s h aw, R a p a h e l S l aw i72n sMo kn t eiS,a r miCanada ; S e v i B o h o rq u ez , S e rg i o e n t o, R a m í rezR ECCaOrNra[ usn e xca l , Peru ; D a m i e n G i ld e a , p l o r e d & ove rl o o ke d ] Antarctica ; Ro l a n d o G a ri b ot t i , M a rce lo S ca n u , 78 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e , D a n i e l S e e l i g e r, Argentina/Chile ; R a j e s h 90 T h e W h i t n e y Ma s s i f, G a d g i l , H a ri s h Ka p a d i a , India ; E l i z a b e t h H aw le y, Ro d o l p h e Po p i e r, R i c h a rd S a l i s b u r y, Nepal ; Ta m ot s u N a ka m u ra , H i ro s h i H a g i w a ra , Japanese climbs ; Pe te r Je n s e n - C h o i , Korean climbs ; A n n a P i u n ov a , Russia , Tajikistan , a n d Kyrgyzstan , X i a Z h o n g m i n g , China Exploration and intrigue in Nepal
by Ca milo R a da
After 57 years, Tierra del Fuego’s spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
by C a m i l o ra da & J ac k M i l l e r
The Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
[Front cover] Will it hold? Marek Raganowicz starts pitch 26, Bushido, Great Trango Tower (p.297). Marcin Tomaszewski [This page] Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland. The big towers above: Baronet (left) and Baron (right) (p.182). John Dickey
by Do u g Ro b i ns o n, A m y Ne s s, & M y l e s M o s e r
[ T h i s p a g e ] W h i t M a g ro o n the first one-day free ascent o f J a d e d L a d y, M t . H o o ke r, Wyoming (p.132). John Dickey
Classic routes, hot new lines, and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L LO W I N G F O R T H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O RT: G R E AT R A N G E S F E L LO W S H I P
$ 1 0 ,0 0 0 + Dougl a s Be a l l Ri ch a rd Bl um Yvon Ch oui n a rd A n onymous Ke vi n Dun ca n & Dun ca n Fa mi ly Foun d at i on Ke n Eh r h a r t
C l a r k G er ha rd t Jr. To d d Ho ffm a n D av id Ko c h M a r k Kro es e McKib b en/Mer ner Fa m ilyFo u nd atio n Peter Metca l f
A no ny m o u s N Y S ec tio n, A AC M a r k & Teres a R ic hey D av id R ig g s S teve S c hw a r tz S teven Swens o n & A nn D a l to n D o u g a nd M a g g ie Wa l ker
$ 5 ,0 0 0 - $ 9 ,9 9 9 A n sa ra Fa mi ly Fun d Yon suk De r by Ch a r le s Fle i sch ma n Br uce Fra n ks G e ra ld G a l lwa s Sa n d y Hi l l Loui s Ka si sch ke
G eo rg e McCow n A my Mered ith Va nes s a O’ B rien Wo l f R iehle Co d y J S m ith Trav is S p itzer W il l ia m & B a r b ra S tra ka
Wa r re n A d e l ma n Ste ve Ba r re t t G e orge Ba sch Sh e r ma n Bul l M . D. Th oma s Burch Joh n Cat to M i ke Col l i n s Ja me s Don i n i Ja me s & Ch e r yl Duckwor t h Ji m Ed wa rd s Da n Emme t t Ch a r lot te Fox M a ri lyn G e n i n at t i
Peter, S a m , A d d is , & G u s G o ld m a n Syed H a id er Ro b er t H a l l Helene H il l M ic ha el Ho d g es T ho m a s Ho r nb ein M . D. M a r k Ka s s ner Phil L a k in Jr G eo rg e Lowe II I Jeff M a r tin A no ny m o u s L ind a Mc M il l a n
FRIENDS OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL In Me m o r y o f C h ar l i e Fow le r & R an dy G ran dst af f G o rdo n A . Be n n e r M. D. Ro b e r t Bran ch Yvo n C h o ui n ard C h ri sto p h e r C l ar ke Dan Cox Bi l l Cox P h i l i p E rard
Ji m Fr ush R y l an d G ardn e r Ste p h e n G e re m i a Way n e an d C y nt h i a G ri f f i n R i ch ard G ri f f i t h Dav i d H ar rah R i ch ard E . Ho f f m an M. D. Jo h n Kasce n ska Lo ui s Kasi sch ke
Mi ke Le w i s Do ug ald MacDo n ald Mar y A n n Mat t h e w s Pe te r McG an n M. D. Mo n a Re y n o lds Sam ue l Si lve rste i n M. D. T h e o do re St re i b e r t Ti m ot hy Wi l t
Online editors D o u g H a l le r, C h ri s H a r ri n g to n , Jo e l Pe a c h , To m P ri g g , C ri s Va le ri o
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W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N KS T O D av i d B o e rs m a , C l a u d e G a rd i e n , M a ro L a b l a n ce , E ri k L a m b e r t , A n n a P i u n ov a , Tu c ke r, a n d a l l AAJ d o n o rs a n d s u p p o r te rs [This page] If you’re climbing Cerro Mariposa, there’s only one approach: Will Stanhope a n d M a rc - A n d re L e c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p.224). Matt Van Biene
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BRAND: AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB PROJECT: ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
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In celebration of the world’s greatest climber, the American
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
Alpine Club is hosting it’s annual benefit dinner alongside many
by nearly 600 people from around the world. As the Club’s Graphic
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry. Reinhold
Designer, David has branded the entire event.
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BRAND: AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDAS PROJECT: RENEWAL MAILER Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
partnership with Adidas and Petzl. On display at the event were
brands throughout the world, held annually in Salt Lake City,
David’s work on brochures, magazines, tradeshow signage,
Utah. As the American Alpine Club’s Graphic Designer, David
posters, gift cards, and more.
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
SHOW SPECIAL! JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65% OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD!
JOIN AT ADIDAS BOOTH #1009
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (#1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65% OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD.
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014.indd 1
$25 OFF
7/17/14 5:12 PM
Can’t make it to the booth? Join the Club online at the pro rate—offer valid Aug. & Sept. only! Visit americanalpineclub.org/join, choose regular membership category, & enter code ORSM14AAC
a Redstone, CO. Carlo Traversi
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80) Expires: 9/30/14
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914.indd 1
7/15/14 5:57 PM
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014.indd 2
7/17/14 5:12 PM
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BRAND: PARADOX SPORTS PROJECT: POSTCARD DESIGN Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests. That’s why we
human-powered sports. Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports. PS is a non-profit committed
creativity and the love of outdoors. Offering our services for free to
to providing inspiration, opportunities, and specialized adaptive
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer.
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing
emphasizes risk management. The
Curriculum includes a comprehensive
curriculum explains the specifics for
manual, clinic and equipment package.
creating and curating this program at
The curriculum provides qualified
climbing gyms, universities, adaptive
instruction on how to provide a rewarding
sports agencies, outdoor clubs, hospitals
climbing experience for persons with
and community rec programs with
a wide array of physical disabilities
a focus on physical adaptation with
while developing inclusive, supportive
paralysis, amputation, deafness/blindness,
communities for adaptive sport, and
neurological disorders, PTSD and TBI.
PARADOX SPORTS 1911 11th St. • Suite 201 • Boulder, CO 80302 • (720) 638-5593 • paradoxsports.org
paradoxsports.org/causes/paradox-curriculum
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BRAND: JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION PROJECT: TRIBUTE POSTER Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber, Jeff
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Lowe in his final act. For the past ten years, Jeff has been battling
Jeff’’s much anticipated film, Metanoia, premeiring this November
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS. Mojave is
at Banff Mountain Film Festival. MCL is a proud sponsor of the film.
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BRAND: VISIT ESTES PARK PROJECT: ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC Each October Estes Park, CO hosts a month long celebration of
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors. While
its highly concentrated elk population. In order to promote the
working for Turner PR, David designed this visual which was
event and boost tourism, Estes Park sought a visual that would
featured on USA Today and many other online publications.
VIEW ONLINE
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BRAND: MOONLIGHT BASIN / SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOUR PROJECT: FACEBOOK CONTEST Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
a campaign requiring entrants to “Like” Moonlight’s Facebook
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
page prior to entering.
Sky, MT ski resort. With the goal of increasing its social media
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward, its fanbase grew
presence and fan-base, Turner PR, alongside David, designed
substantially over the course of the contest.
Through co-branding the creative
VIEW ONLINE
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BRAND: SMARTWOOL PROJECT: MAGAZINE AD Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
photography, the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
layering system. By combining product placement and action
and simultaniously communicated the new product line.
MOUNTAIN
SMART S
Men’s PhD® SmartLoft Divide Full Zip Instead of looking at layers individually, we took a “system” approach - designing pieces that not only work independently, but together as well. Fitting together. Made for each other. Smart layers that are more efficient, with less bulk. The Result? Layered together, they don’t bunch or restrict movement, so you can focus on the trail.
© Tyler Stableford Photography
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BRAND: ASCENT DESCENT REVIEW PROJECT: WEBSITE In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
and would allow for user feedback and ratings. No other gear
ascentdescentreview.com. Having seen an opening in the gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
review market, David built a website that was mobile-friendly
allows for such user-interaction.
VIEW ONLINE
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BRAND: MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB / MOJAVE WEAR
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
PROJECT: T-SHIRT DESIGN
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license. It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
to promote brands, creativity and the outdoor lifestyle. This
the buyer. If interested in purchase, reach out to dboersma@
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
mojavecreativelab.com.
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At Mojave Creative Lab, we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
desert dweller
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CONTACT Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Lab? dboersma@mojavecreativelab.com
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
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mojavecreativelab.com
Brady Jensen hooks a trout. Laramie River Canyon, WY. David Boersma
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