desIgn dublin
Meet six of the city’s most inspiring creatives
MIdnIghT calling After dark hotspots
m aga z i n e Issue 02
12 Ranelagh
hours In …
the capital’s hippest hood
+
The besT places To eaT, shop and relax In The cITy
geT
Outside
With our guide to dublin outdoors
Engagement & Wedding Ring Specialists www.voltairediamonds.ie For all enquiries or to book an appointment .... Tel : 01 4421098 or Email: info@voltairediamonds.ie
contents Issue 02
on the cover 24 Creative Capital Meet six inspiring minds making their mark on the city. 30 Summer in the City Let us tempt you into taking it outside to make the most of the city’s urban spaces.
30
34 Borough with a Bite Often described as Dublin’s answer to Brooklyn, Ranelagh is worth spending a (delicious) day in. 47 After Dark There’s lots to do in Dublin when the sun goes down ... follow us.
24
34
features 07 Insider News All you need to know, now. Places to eat, things to do and stuff to buy. 11 Made in Ireland The best of Irish design. 12 Perfect Scents Perfumer Mark Buxton talks about his exciting new bespoke range for the Dylan hotel. 15 Shopping Hotspots Dublin has everything you’re after, from independent fashion finds to fabulous foodie haunts and bustling markets. 18 Simply the Best Chef Glenn Murphy pays homage to Irish meat and shares his amazing pulled pork bap recipe.
42
20 Kitchen Confidential Meet the culinary team at the Dylan hotel. 22 Cocktail Hour Innovative mixologist Raphael Blondelle has some exciting new creations for you to try. 40 Seaweed Sensation Kira Walton, co-founder of Voya Cosmetics, talks nature, beauty and the power of seaweed. 42 Wicklow Way Discover the breathtaking beauty of Ireland’s greenest county.
On the cover Dublin’s Liffey boardwalk and the Ha’penny Bridge. Photograph Matthew Thompson
08
51 Travel Gadgets All you need on the move this season. 53 Get Away in Style Travel smart with our selection of savvy tips.
15
55 History of the House Explore the Dylan hotel property’s fascinating past. 56 Last Word Meet Cork-born comedienne Maeve Higgins.
Published by IMAGE Publications: Editor Lizzie Gore-Grimes Art Director Sandra Horan Editorial Assistant Lucy Watts Sub-editor Meg Walker Advertising Manager Jean Anderson Group Editorial Director Laura George Publisher & Managing Director Richard Power Dylan magazine is published by the Dylan in association with IMAGE Publications Ltd. Custom Publishing, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland; tel: +353 1 271 9600 Registered number: 56663. Directors: Richard Power, Ann Reihill, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Robert Power, Laura George and Gina Traynor. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part (including photocopying or storing in any medium by electronic means) is prohibited without prior permission of IMAGE Publications Ltd. The reproduction of colours is as accurate as the printing process will allow. Whilst Dylan magazine accepts third party advertising, it does not endorse or take any responsibility for products or services outside those of the Dylan. Please contact the advertiser directly. All items are subject to availability. The Dylan has made every effort to ensure that product information and prices are correct at the time of going to press. Some of these, including price, may change after publication. For further information, please contact the Dylan Hotel, Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4; tel: +353 1 660 3000; www.dylan.ie.
issue 02 dylan | 1
Enjoy PERRIER-JOUËT Sensibly. Visit
welcome I
n this issue, we celebrate outdoor life in the city, as we encourage you to explore all the great fresh-air spots around Dublin and make the most of the line-up of hip events and al fresco festivals that are set to take place (page 30). And why not venture a little bit further again, only 40 minutes’ drive away, to discover the breathtaking Garden of Ireland that is County Wicklow (page 42). As a boutique, independent Dublin hotel, we really appreciate creative talent, so we’ve scoured the capital to introduce you to six of the city’s most inspiring design minds (page 24). We think you’ll be impressed. Over the next couple of months, we have a number of new projects happening in the hotel. One that we are most excited about is the arrival of our new bathroom amenities, designed by rock ’n’ roll perfumer Mark Buxton. You can meet the man himself on page 12. It’s also very important to us at the Dylan, to offer our guests the best concierge service, and one of the key questions we get asked time and again is, “Where do the locals like to hang out?”. We spill the beans on page 34, as we take you on a guided gastro-tour of the city’s hippest hood, Ranelagh, and then take you out on the tiles with our After Dark guide to Dublin’s nightlife (page 47). Once again, I very much look forward to welcoming you at the Dylan and hope that our magazine inspires you to make the most of your time here and helps you to get to know, and love, the city as much as we do.
Portrait by Anthony Woods
Welcome to another great issue of the Dylan Magazine, your onthe-pulse insider’s guide to Dublin.
Gráinne Ross General Manager Dylan Hotel
issue 02 dylan | 3
DayTRIPtoCHIC
Ireland’s luxury outlet shoppIng experIence wIth exceptIonal savIngs
06/13
Anya Hindmarch • L.K.Bennett • Louise Kennedy • Hugo Boss • Pandora • and many more
© Kildare Village 2013
KildareVillage.com
EdiblE Ireland
Don’t miss the Taste of Dublin festival, which takes place over four days in June in the beautiful surroundings of the Iveagh Gardens. This hidden oasis in the city centre will be awash with culinary talent as the city’s top chefs and restaurants, including the Dylan Hotel, offer mini tasting menus. There will also be stacks of artisan edible goodies on offer. June 13-16, tasteofdublin.ie.
insider news From fabulous foodie festivals to uber-modern museums and top-notch theatre nights, there’s stacks to do in Dublin right now.
This season Dylan’s back terrace will host some of Dublin’s best DJs every Friday & Saturday from 8.30pm and chill out Sundays from 2.30pm.
We love this range of organic skincare from Co Galway. dr Joanne Reilly originally created it at home for her family’s use, but the brand is now in demand across the globe. Rosehip Face Serum, €28; day Cream, €24; kinvaraskincare.com.
Antiques & Art District
“Reef” by Mary Rose Binchy, Cross Gallery, July 11- August 3.
SummER SouNdS
Natural beauty
Francis Street, just five minutes’ walk from Stephen’s Green, is the place to go for a Saturday browse. From magnificent Georgian mahogany bookcases to fine Persian rugs and contemporary Irish art, you’ll find it all here. O’Sullivan Antiques, Michael O’Connell, and Niall Mullen are just some of the stellar names on the street, while Mahmut Balkir is the man to visit for exquisite Oriental rugs (01 453 1222; orientalrugs.ie). But don’t leave without your fix of contemporary art and coffee from Cross Gallery (01 473 8979; crossgallery.ie).
Gift idea
Need to pick up a little something for someone back home? Weirs of baggot Street, just around the corner, has lots of beautiful bits. Foxford rug, from €39, 01 668 5229; weirsofbaggotst.ie. issue 02 dylan | 5
33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2 +3531 6707238 WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM
OPEN 7 DAYS 2 COURSE LUNCH €17.00 3 COURSE LUNCH €19.00
EARLY BIRD MENU 2 COURSES €19.50 3 COURSES €22.00
A LA CARTE MENU EXTENSIVE WINE LIST GREAT COCKTAILS
Dining in Dublin
Whether you’re in the mood for a brilliant bistro, super steak or the best of Irish, we’ve picked out the cream of the culinary crop for you…
Brilliant bistros
Super steaks
Irish stars
Mulberry Gardens This elegant pop-up style restaurant, above, is open Thursday-Saturday only and serves a set menu. But wow, what a menu. The location is also pretty as a picture. 01 269 3300; mulberrygarden.ie.
The buTcher Grill This high-end steak joint in Ranelagh, above, in a refurbished butcher’s shop, is heaven for carnivores. The space is small but packs a punch with stand-out food and oceans of atmosphere. 01 4981805; thebutchergrill.ie.
The PiG’s ear The menu here reads like a paean to Irish artisan produce, and the location is pretty impressive too – overlooking the Trinity College playing fields. Don’t miss the beef and marrow tartare. 01 670 3865; thepigsear.ie.
PePloe’s This basement space, formerly a bank vault, on Stephen’s Green, oozes patrician comfort and style. Come here for finely crafted bisro classics, brilliant wine and stellar service. We love the rabbit risotto. 01 676 31444; peploes.com.
asador Just five minutes’ walk from the Dylan hotel door, this is one of the city’s hottest grillhouses, complete with cool cocktail bar. Steaks are superb but the barbecued seafood platter is also brilliant. 01 254 5353; asador.ie.
The WindinG sTair If you’re looking for pitch-perfect atmosphere and innovative home-cooking using only the very best Irish ingredients, never mind a killer view of the Ha’penny Bridge, look no further. 01 872 7320; winding-stair.com.
locks This Michelin-starred gem boasts one of the most romantic locations in the city – overlooking Dublin’s Grand Canal. It’s refined, polished and picture-perfect but completely unstuffy. 01 420 0555; locksbrasserie.com.
The choP house This cosy neighbourhood gastropub takes its meat very seriously, presenting uncooked cuts for you to inspect before they’re prepared to perfection. Imaginative starters are also a highlight. 01 660 2390; thechophouse.ie.
The sussex This cosy, firelit restaurant above O’Briens pub on Leeson Street embodies all that is best about Ireland: warm and friendly service and terrific, flavourful food. Don’t miss the house smokies. 01 676 2851; thesussex.ie.
Fringe Theory
With scores of shows taking place over 16 days in September, the Dublin Fringe Festival is set to send your cultural antennae twitching. Once again, both hot, new talent and well-established names in theatre, dance and performance will flood into the city to take to the stage. Be organised and bag the best seats now. September 7– 22; fringefest.com for further details.
Softly, softly
We love cult Australian beauty brand Aesop’s holistic approach to skincare. The new rind Concentrate Body Balm, enriched with orange, lemon and grapefruit, will leave skin soft and citrus fresh, €28, net-a-porter.com.
issue 02 dylan | 7
Foodie in residence
New executive head chef, John Nagle, has just launched The Ivy Restaurant at Dunboyne Castle Hotel. John, previously executive head chef at The Westbury, has introduced a new summer menu featuring Ireland’s finest produce, such as a delicious herb crusted St Tola goat’s cheese salad, chargrilled Angus beef fillet and pan-fried west coast scallops. John has also introduced a beautiful new afternoon tea menu which guests can enjoy in the hotel’s light-filled Terrace Lounge, overlooking the grounds. Dunboyne Castle Hotel & Spa, Dunboyne, Co Meath, 01 801 3500; dunboynecastlehotel.com.
Irish interiors
Designer René Mullin’s delightful collection brings a dash of cool to the Irish language. Find her fun tea towels, mugs and more at the Irish Design Shop, RHA, Dublin 2, 01 679 8871; irishdesignshop.com.
Get to Greystones
We can thin think of few nicer ways to spend a day than with a trip out to the seaside town of Greystones. Although it’s technically in County Wicklow, it’s only a short (and beautifully scenic) Dart ride out of town. Once there, make sure to visit the Stone Gallery – a veritable Aladdin’s Cave of the best the natural world has to offer by way of semi-precious stones, crystals, fossils and jewellery. Next up, make a gourmet pit stop at The Happy Pear café for some of the most wholesome organic food around. The Stone Gallery (01 201 0047) and The Happy Pear (01 287 3655) are both on Church Road, Greystones.
local eyes
Howie the Rookie
When one of Ireland’s most celebrated contemporary screenwriters and playwrights, Mark O’Rowe (Intermission, Perrier’s Bounty) joins forces with one of the country’s most acclaimed actors – Tom Vaughan-Lawlor (Love/Hate), you know the result is going to be electrifying. Howie the Rookie is the eagerly anticipated one-man show that brings their considerable talents together. We can’t wait. Project Arts Centre, Temple Bar. June 17-July 6. 01 881 9613; projectartscentre.ie.
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If there’s one thing we Dubliners are famous for, it’s spinning a yarn. And now two very clever chaps, Andy Flaherty and Tom Rowley, have tapped into this to create a brilliant app called Storymap, which brings the map of Dublin alive through stories. See the city through the eyes, and words, of the locals, €2.59 from the App Store; storymap.ie.
Planners of the world’s finest weddings, as exclusively recommended by Harrods. To find out more and book your appointment visit www.quintessentiallyweddings.com
LONDON · GENEVA · HONG KONG · DUBAI · NEW DELHI · SINGAPORE · COTE D’AZUR
Made in Ireland Jo Linehan scours the country in search of the very best of Irish design ...
Frock Fancy For dress perfection, look no further than Irish design supremo John Rocha. Ivory jacquard dress, €619; aqua green silk organza dress, €640, both at Havana, 01 260 2707; havanaboutique.ie.
Merle O’Grady’s gobstopper cocktail rings guarantee instant fashion kudos. Damita ring, €83.20, merleogrady.com so delicate Decorate décolletage with Loulou Grenelle’s contemporary jewels. Whippy ice cream necklace in recycled sterling silver, 22 carat gold plate, €138, loulougrenelle.com.
Get your GleaM on Bronze and gilded-gold textures are de rigueur this season. We love this cheeky skater skirt by young Dublin-born designer Emma Manley, €330 at Bow, 017071763; bowpowerscourt.com or emmamanley.com.
This cushy little number by Orla Kiely packs a terracotta punch, €49 at Kilkenny Shop, 01 677 7066; kilkennyshop.com
Butter-soFt Biker er Be prepared for Ireland’s and’s changeable weather with a super-soft and divinely nely cosy, made-to-order leather biker jacket from om designer of the moment JOD, €325, jodclothing.com. artisan deliGHts Find the Dylan’s box of Irish Goodness in your room and stock up on the tastiest Irish h gourmet goodies, from just €2.
ceraMic solutions Cake Café plate, €16, Designist, 01 475 8534; designist.ie. Carolyn Donnelly Eclectic Living plate, €6, Dunnes Stores; dunnesstores.ie.
es Birch and ash mini-stools by artist Jam l, €295, stoo kin eps Carrol. Small stool, €60; she s, ma Tho n Brow Makers & Brothers at 01 605 6666; brownthomas.com
cocktail Hour Wow your guests with sensational cocktails - dressed to thrill in Waterford Crystal’s vibrant new Mixology collection. Set of four, €260, Waterford Wedgwood boutique, Brown Thomas, 01 605 6666; brownthomas.com.
in BlooM Pick up beautiful bouquets and flowered charms at Dublin’s most divine florist, from €50, The Garden, 01 612 5260; thegardenpowerscourt.ie.
issue 02 dylan | 11
perfecT scents Kirstie McDermott meets up with rock and roll perfumer Mark Buxton to talk about his exciting new olfactory association with the Dylan.
T
hink you’ve never heard of Mark Buxton? Think again: if you’ve passed through a department store beauty hall recently, then you’ve definitely come across the work of this UK-born, Paris-dwelling niche perfumer who, despite his elusively low profile, is one of the fragrance industry’s most influential creatives. In the note-making business for more than 25 years, Buxton has put his talents to big name juices like Givenchy So Givenchy, Paco Rabanne Black XS for Her, and Versace V/S for men. His notoriety began when he changed the face of fragrance with 1994’s scentsationally different offering for avant garde fashion brand Comme des Garçons. “It was one of the first fragrances where people said ‘wow’,” he says. In a time when the market was saturated with oceanic and ozonic scents like Issey Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey, “it was different in every way: the bottle, concept and structure of the fragrance.” But when Buxton was developing the scent, he had no idea who the client was. “It was an anonymous brief and we were told to bring something out of the box,” he remembers. In a foreshadowing of the dulling down of creativity that saw him leave the commercial fragrance world years later, he adds, “our mistake was to stay safe in
12 | dylan issue 02
market terms and we presented something that was very much already out there. It was rejected, but thankfully we got a second chance.” That came in the form of a scrapbook note he’d kept from a souk in Morocco. “It was really just an accord, incense and amber, but Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons’ founder and designer, loved it.”
“perfume should make you feel beautiful. I make InTeresTIng composITIons. you have To sTay orIgInal buT wearable, ThaT’s my moTTo.” The exploration of his interests – nightlife and music (jazz and rock and roll are favourites) – “I’m like Bryan Ferry, he still smokes and drinks like hell” – and a love of gastronomy all come together to influence his perfume compositions, which often incorporate herbal, spicy and aromatic notes. “I’m a rock and roll perfumer,” he
laughs. It’s clear to see that Buxton’s love of music, people-watching and nightlife was inevitably going to be at odds with a settled corporate life. “I like to go out a lot and hang out in cafés,” he confirms. “That’s where I nick all my ideas! I look at fashion – what people are wearing, their hairstyles, the details. I try to capture it. I work out what that would smell like and then I distill it into a bottle.” With an eponymous line of fragrances under his belt, developed while still working in a commercial perfumery, the chance then came for Buxton to go solo. He jumped at it. “I always knew one day I would leave – and after 25 years in the industry, I thought it’s now or never.” Buying his line back from its original backers, the recently re-launched Mark Buxton Perfumes collection is true to his ethos. Black Angel, Sexual Healing and Devil in Disguise are three of the five fragrances, and each tells a tale of unexpected encounters, seduction or subtle danger. And now? “I could never have imagined I’d be doing so much,” he says, marvelling at the variety in his new career. “My creativity is so fired up,” he enthuses. “I’m awakening things in my olfactory memory again.” There’s a collaboration with likeminded perfumers on Nose, a specialist Paris-based fragrance boutique and website, plus bespoke services. You can
“I look at fashion – what people are wearing, their hairstyles, the details. I try to capture it. I work out what that would smell like and I distill it into a bottle.”
WHAT’S YOUR SCENT STYLE Diagnose yourself by personality type
Romantic Love bouquets and all things petal-pretty? Look for scents packed with white florals and rose-like gardenias, lilies, jasmine, tuberose and orange blossom. Seductive Looks to kill? We bet you’ll be an Oriental fan. Scents containing notes like amber, vanilla, cashmeran wood, black orchid and cardamom are for you.
commission a personal masterpiece for a cool €8,000. But really, there’s no need, as you will find his new range of bathroom amenities for the Dylan hotel in your bathroom. The Mark Buxton Collection for the Dylan is “a really cool scent,” he reveals. “I made a vetiver and violet blend, so it’s really unisex and juicy.” Shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body milk and soap come in his signature packaging, and the result is sharp and sophisticated. So what’s next? One of his favourite notes will be worked into his sixth scent, to debut this year. Named after a Rolling
Stones song, Emotional Rescue will “be based around a vetiver theme – with a very surprising, unusual sharp top note,” he confides. When it comes to fragrance formulation, Buxton is an innovator. “Perfume should make you feel beautiful. I make interesting compositions: you have to stay original but wearable, that’s my motto.” Complimentary Mark Buxton amenities in your bathroom at the Dylan from September 2013. Mark Buxton perfumes available on nose.fr.
SpoRty Go for green, fresh scents like galbanum, violet leaves, petit grain, bay, osmanthus, hyacinth and sharp citrus. GiRly Honeyed, chocolate notes, pink peppercorn, vanilla, peach, strawberries, caramel, red berries and pear will have you like a kid in a candy shop. manly Looking for something with the nuzzle factor? Sandalwood, vetiver, bergamot, musk, oud, patchouli, cedarwood, sage and basil are all winners.
issue 02 dylan | 13
A top gastro pub located just around the corner from The Dylan Hotel At the Waterloo Bar & Grill we pride ourselves on our locally sourced quality food and our extensive range of wines and craft beers. We have been shortlisted twice for “Best Gastro Pub in Dublin� by the Restaurant Association of Ireland, in 2012 & 2013
36 Upper Baggot Street, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 Phone: 01 660 0650 Email: info@thewaterloobarandgrill.ie
www.thewaterloobarandgrill.ie
shopping
hotspots
Dublin has everything you’re after – and more – from independent fashion finds to fabulous foodie haunts and bustling markets, it’s all here.
indigo & cloth
fashion
This razor-sharp men’s concept store in Temple Bar is super slick with its art gallery-esque layout. Come here for covetable menswear labels Our Legacy, Norse Projects and Oliver Spencer, get your caffeine fix at the Brew Bar, and pick up a copy of their collaborative creation, Thread Magazine, while you’re at it. 9 Essex St. East, Temple Bar. 01 670 6403; indigoandcl indigoandcloth.com.
brown thomas
Great Irish institutions don’t come much bigger or bolder than Brown Thomas department store, featuring four floors of fabulous fashion, beauty and homeware. Come here to snap up Irish designer bags by Pauric Sweeney, shoes by Caroline Issa for LK Bennett, and much more. 88 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, 01 605 6666; brownthomas.com.
Bow
timeless
weirs For beautiful, keepsake time-keepers and special pieces of jewellery, like this Tissot Chronograph18K rose gold watch, €4,365, we love Weir & Sons. 96-99 Grafton Street, 01 677 9678; weirandsons.ie.
loulerie
Loulerie spells jewellery to us. Marvel at the stunning pieces by Perle de Lune, David Aubrey and Alexis Bittar, among others. 14b Chatham Street, 01 672 4024; loulerie.ie.
Above, from left: Miss Havisham ring, €235; Element Mauritius ring, €260, both Alexis Bittar
This hip boutique is beloved by Dublin’s fashionistas and stylists, for good reason. It’s chock-full of cult (Irish) indie labels like Eilis Boyle, Tim Ryan and Electronic Sheep. Irresistible accessories and cool keepsakes also come as standard. Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 01 707 1763; bowpowerscourtcom.
Gold filled bracelet with turquoise lava and Swarovski crystals, €90, MoMuse, at Bow.
powerscourt townhouse
It’s so easy to lose an afternoon in this beautiful, lofty shopping space. Boasting everything from hip homeware at Article, to fashion-forward finds at Design Centre, bespoke sparkly pieces from Corr’s ... and more. 59 South William Street, 01 679 4144; powerscourtcentre.com.
WOrDS: JO LINEhAN issue 02 dylan | 15
food cocoA Atelier
Paris may have Ladurée, but we have Cocoa Atelier. For exquisite macaroons, handmade chocolates, truffles, jars of heavenly homemade caramel and dulce de leche, this is heaven. Have you tried their ice cream? Salted caramel, Venezuelan chocolate with orange oil, nutty pistachio and chestnut honey cream ... Wow. 30 Drury Street, 01 675 3616; cocoaatelier.ie.
avoca
Hungry? Be warned a trip to the Avoca Food Hall could result in penury. How to resist the freshly-made Avoca salads, house-baked breads, rows of adorable-looking Avoca Pantry chutneys and jams. And as for the charcuterie and cheese rooms … where to stop ... 11-13 Suffolk Street, 01 677 4215; avoca.ie.
ARTISAN IRISH
TEMPLE BAR FOOD MARKET Silke Cropp, producer of Corleggy Cheese (left), is just one of the impassioned food producers that you’ll meet at Temple Bar Farmers’ Market every Saturday, packed with stalls selling farmhouse cheeses, olives, freshly baked bread, oysters and more. And now a new retractable roof canopy means it won’t be able to rain on your parade. templebar.ie.
sheridAns cheesemongers
Seamus and Kevin Sheridan set up their first cheese stall in 1995. And ever since, their name has been synonymous, across Ireland, with the best quality Irish and international farmhouse cheese. 11 South Anne Street, 01 679 3143; sheridanscheesemongers.com.
fallon & byrne
Dublin city does not yet have a proper indoor food market, but thankfully we do have the Fallon & Byrne Food Hall. Here, you’ll find the best of Irish artisan produce nestled comfortably and confidently beside exciting international foodie imports. Elysium for food lovers. Plus the place boasts a great café, basement wine bar and elegant upstairs bistro restaurant. 11-17 Exchequer Street, 01 472 1010; fallonandbyrne.com.
dunnes butchers
Fintan Dunne’s prize-winning butcher shop in Donnybrook is a must-visit for all culinary-minded carnivores. Spot the 32-day aged sides of Hereford beef and lamb hanging behind glass to the right. He stocks every manner of Irish meat - all top notch, plus wines and deli delights. 01 283 9679. WorDS: LIzzIe gore-grImeS
16 | dylan issue 02
shopping
hotspots
article
interiors
A trip to Article will solve all your gifting problems in one go. John Adams’ contemporary interiors store in Powerscourt is bursting at the seams with inspirational finds – slick stationery, Irish designed tableware, ceramics, handmade candles, beautiful books and more. 22 Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, 01 679 9268; articledublin.com.
books the secret book & record store
This may be one of Dublin’s best kept secrets – a veritable treasure-trove of second-hand literary gems, sharing shelf space with everything from comics, to in-depth geographical surveys of the Irish coast. 15a Wicklow Street, 01 679 7272.
Crafty
dublin flea market
If you love stall stalking, The Dublin Flea is brimming with over 50 stalls of thrifty goods, loads of fab food and a DJ in situ playing groovy sounds. The Co-op, Newmarket Square, Dublin 8; dublinflea.ie.
Arnotts The Craft Collective at Arnotts is the place to source 100% Irish design. From beautifully made Bunbury chopping boards, to cool light fittings and stunning linen. 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1, 01 805 0400; arnotts.ie.
the Winding stair
the constant knitter, on francis street, stocks every kind of wool and sewing accessory imaginable, 087 996 7197; theconstantknitter.ie.
Easily one of our favourite bookshops in the city, The Winding Stair prides itself on stocking lots of wonderfully esoteric tomes alongside familiar titles. There’s also an amazing restaurant by the 73 same name upstairs. 40 Lower Ormond Quay, 01 872 7320; winding-stair.com.
rare finds CAthACh Books They specialise in rare and precious books here, so expect to spend a few quid. But there is a wonderful selection of more reasonably priced special editions too. A wonderful place to find a special gift. 10 Duke Street, 01 671 8676; rarebooks.ie.
industry
This is hipster heaven. Come to Industry for all things vintage, upcycled and new. Products range from brand new lamps to pre-loved bikes and recycled wool blankets. 5 Essex Street West, Temple Bar, 01 613 9111, industrydesign.ie. WorDS: AShLINg o’LoughLIN
WorDS: LuCy WATTS issue 02 dylan | 17
SiMply
the best
Ben Webb meets up with Glenn Murphy, head chef at the Dylan hotel, and discovers a man fiercely passionate about Irish meat.
“M
y favourite season for meat is the winter, when we start getting wild venison into the kitchen,” says chef Glenn Murphy with a wistful look in his eye. “We only have it available for four or five months of the year so I really treasure it. But once venison is out of season, I only have about a month to wait for spring lamb, which is another favourite … and then there’s the beef …” In truth, Glenn – like most of us in Ireland – is spoilt for choice. Irish meat is world-beating. He is in a rush – he has another busy lunch service to prepare for at the Dylan Restaurant – but he is warming to the subject of meat. “The Irish Hereford beef we use in the Dylan has lovely marbling, which makes for a juicy, succulent steak,” he says. “Our beef is
18 | dylan issue 02
grass-fed, which gives it a lovely flavour, and Wicklow lamb is some of the best tasting lamb in the world. We are really lucky to have this right on our doorstep.” My mouth is already watering as I examine the menu. It’s a tough choice. Or should I say a tender and tasty one? There’s the seared wild Wicklow venison
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there’s the 28-day dry-aged fillet of Irish beef, salt baked celeriac, onion ash, black truffle and Pedro Ximénez reduction … it all sounds fantastic. At the Dylan, the simple ingredient – rather than a moment of indulgent cheffy magic – is always the star of the dish. Glenn, who comes from a family of
}
At the Dylan, the simple ingredient — rather than a moment of indulgent cheffy magic — is always the star of the dish.
with pickled red cabbage, butternut squash purée, candied walnuts and potato pave. Or the supreme of Irish free-range chicken, black pudding gratin, Brussels sprouts and bacon lardons, and baby carrots with Calvados cream. But then
foodies – his Nana was a great gnocchi maker and his father loved to test out a wide array of international cuisines on his family – has a deep respect for the ingredients he uses. Everything from meat and artisan cheese to the seafood and
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“I focus on cooking techniques that bring out the natural flavour of each ingredient.”
most seasonal of vegetables is treated with a lightness of touch. “I focus on cooking techniques that bring out the natural flavour of each ingredient,” he says. “I like my plates to go out to the customer looking clean and well presented.” It requires great confidence in the ingredients to go for a less is more approach and so sourcing the best meat is a vital part of a chef’s life. Glenn loves visiting the Dylan’s suppliers, such as the awardwinning Kettyle Meats in the rolling hills of Fermanagh, to get an insight into their lives and, more importantly, the lives of their animals. “Our suppliers are producing some amazing products and their passion for their craft is brilliant,” he explains with a tone of respect in his voice. “When so much care and passion goes into
}
their products, we have a duty in the kitchen to treat that produce with respect and to exploit that passion so our guests enjoy an unforgettable meal. It is vital to build up strong relationships with our suppliers. It helps us maintain a consistent level of excellence for our guests.” The first guests of the day have yet to take their place in the light-filled, tranquil restaurant as Glenn prepares to return to the heat of the kitchen. Today, there is some spring lamb to attend to. “Traceability is so important,” he says, emphasising all the hard work that goes on behind the scenes in the drive to create consistently tasty food. “Our guests must have 100 per cent confidence in where their food has come from. The field-to-fork philosophy is key and Irish meat is fantastic.”
Meet the Butcher at the Dylan
“Our Meet the Butcher evenings are going to be great fun and a great showcase for local Irish meat, which we are going to cook on our Americanstyle BBQ smoker. We’ll be offering pulled pork baps, cooked low and slow, butchers’ own gourmet sausages, beef brisket and BBQ pork ribs in a sticky glaze … and that’s just a few highlights from the menu. These evenings will be great fun for guests, who will be able to pick up lots of inspirational ideas about meat and how to cook it from the butchers and myself. And the food should be pretty good, too.“ Glenn Murphy, head chef, Dylan hotel Meet the Butcher weekends will take place in July and August. See dylan.ie for more information.
Pulled pork bap with bbq sauce and slaw Ingredients • ½ shoulder of pork, (about2kg/4½lb) off the bone • 250ml dry cider or apple juice • floury bap
For the barbecue sauce • 400ml passata • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard • 2 tbsp sugar • 60ml cider vinegar
For the dry rub • 2 tbsp fennel seeds • 1 tbsp black peppercorns • 1 dried chilli or 2 tsp dried chilli flakes • 2 chipotle chillies • 2 garlic cloves • ½ tbsp coriander seeds • ½ tbsp cumin seeds • 1 tbsp smoked paprika • 2 tbsp brown sugar
For the slaw • ½ white cabbage, finely sliced • 300g radishes, finely sliced • 4 spring onions, finely sliced • 2 handfuls each of coriander and mint leaves • juice of 2 limes • olive oil
Method
1 2
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 7. Grind the dry rub ingredients in a pestle and mortar until coarse.
Remove the skin from the pork and discard or use for crackling. Sprinkle the pork generously with salt. In a deep, flameproof casserole dish (with lid), heat a good glug of oil and when hot, brown the pork on both sides.
3
Remove from the casserole and cover with the dry rub, making sure you get it in all the nooks and crannies. Drain the excess fat from the casserole and return the pork to it. Pour the cider or apple juice over the pork.
4
Bake in the oven, uncovered, for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven to 140°C/275°F/gas mark 1, cover and cook for a further 3½-5 hours, until the meat is soft and pulls apart easily. As it cooks, top up with extra cider, juice or water if necessary.
5
Remove from the oven. Keeping the pork in the casserole, carefully pour off the liquid into a large pan. Bring this liquid to the boil, add the barbecue sauce ingredients and season. Turn the heat down and leave to bubble for 10-15 minutes, until it has thickened and reduced a little.
6 7
Meanwhile, pull the pork apart with a fork so it’s nicely shredded.
Make the slaw by combining the cabbage, radish and spring onion. Tear the herbs over it and squeeze in the lime juice, along with a small drizzle of oil. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
8
Put shredded pork in a bap, add the slaw and pour over barbecue sauce.
issue 02 dylan | 19
Pawel Kasprzak CommiS Chef
28-day dry-aged fillet of Irish beef, Jerusalem artichoke & vanilla purée, fondant potato The quality of the hereford ribeye steaks that we serve is amazing! Tender and juicy with great flavour.
Robert Murphy Senior Chef de ParTie
Chicken and ham hock terrine with plum chutney, apple and watercress salad This is such a cracking dish, it’s hugely popular with our guests and it looks great on the plate.
Pedro Ferraz Chef de ParTie
Kevin Chithray
Leek & parmesan risotto with a fricassée of duck, parmesan tuille making fresh pasta and risotto is a passion of mine. using traditional italian techniques with the best local ingredients gives our customers a great dish.
breakfaST Chef
Eggs Royale What could be better than the combination of irish smoked salmon, free-range eggs, a lightly toasted muffin, topped with creamy hollandaise?
Tomas Ryan
Junior Chef de ParTie Cured Clare Island organic salmon, shaved fennel & orange yuzu gel here we take the legendary irish salmon and enhance it with Japanese seasoning techniques to bring even more umami taste to the dish.
Kitchen Confidential
The culinary team at the Dylan hotel choose their favourite dishes from the menu and tell us what makes each one so special. Photograph by Anthony Woods 20 | dylan issue 02
Glenn Murphy HeAd CHef
Ardsallagh goats cheese croquettes, heritage carrots & candied walnuts I love Ardsallagh goat’s cheese – it has a wonderful creaminess that goes brilliantly with the crunchy carrot textures and candied walnuts in this dish.
Gabor Hanyecz SouS CHef
Seared cannon of Wicklow lamb, peas, broad beans & wild mushrooms, wild garlic purée, buttermilk potato As members of Good food Ireland, supporting Irish producers is really important to us. So the Slaney Valley lamb dish on our menu gets my top vote.
issue 02 dylan | 21
CoCktail hour 22 | dylan issue 02
The bar at the Dylan hotel is a cool but laid-back spot to enjoy a classic cocktail but, says innovative mixologist Raphael Blondelle, it’s time to try one of his exciting new creations. Ben Webb settles in for an evening of tasting.
W
atching Raphael like Wexford strawberries, which gives an Blondelle at work in extra dimension to a cocktail.” the sleek Dylan bar is a This summer, Raphael predicts the new little like being in the fruit punches on the menu are going to hushed presence of a fly, as they are refreshing, tasty and suit magician. There’s the confident manner, everybody’s taste. “It’s a summer drink the smooth hand movements and, of that needs to be shared with friends,” course, the sharp suit. But the result is Raphael says enthusiastically. “And here at not a trick. It’s real and it tastes very, the Dylan hotel we have the most very good. beautiful and sunny terrace in the whole Creating perfect cocktails is, however, a country. It’s a perfect place to enjoy one.” magical combination of art and science. Infusions, too, are his tip to be top of They just don’t taste the same when the sips. “We are still creating new mixed at home. So what’s the secret? flavours and combinations,” he says with “It is about passion and fun,” explains a smile. “The latest one is Skittle-infused Frenchman Raphael, who clearly vodka. Skittles are one of the most possesses the vital je popular sweets in ne sais quoi. “You Ireland, so we need a perfect decided to have fun “a recipe that seems balance of flavours with them. We good on paper and a delightful separate the five presentation.” flavours and create can be bland, but And, to stay five different vodka sometimes two exciting and infusions. The taste products relevant, you also and colours are need to keep up amazing!” unexpectedly end with all the new Like any creative up being magical in talent, drinks – both Raphael likes the glass.” alcoholic and to lead the way with non-alcoholic new ideas. But it’s – that are hitting easier said than the market. Raphael, for example, has done. “It is a serious business in the sense started using Beefeater 24 in the Dylan’s that we need to create drinks that taste Classic Martini. “It is a London gin and for good and look nice,” he says, “but it is also 24 hours the gin’s exotic botanicals, which a fun business when we get mixing and include rare Japanese sencha tea and try out new ideas. Most of the time, the Chinese green tea, are gently steeped first cocktail you make is not drinkable – together,” he says seriously. “This creates a a recipe that seems good on paper can gin that is subtle, scented and sensuously be bland, but sometimes two products smooth, and perfect to drink with tonic unexpectedly end up being magical water or in a cocktail.” in the glass.” The Martini may be the classic cocktail And sometimes, as if by magic, the – and, in mixology circles, the ultimate ingredients come together to create test of skill – but these days variety and something that is so good it defies logic. novelty are also the spice of life. Each A good example is the Dylan Ferrero month, the Dylan’s cocktail menu is given Rocher Martini. “It is well balanced and a little stir and a shake. Inspiration takes perfect as an after-dinner cocktail,” many forms – an intriguing new product, Raphael explains. “We even offer it to our a clever suggestion from a guest, or the restaurant guests as a dessert alternative, seasonal bounty of Ireland. “I love the and very often a second one is ordered. summer because we can source local fruit That says it all.”
The Brazilionaire Making a punch couldn’t be easier; you simply put all the ingredients into a bowl and add ice. The secret to a really good one is to use top quality spirits and freshly squeezed juices. The Brazilionaire is fantastic. The vibrant green colour comes from the fresh basil blended into the sugar syrup. We use Fubá Cachaça, a spirit from Brazil that is on the way to overtake Tequila, and is the base of the Caipirinha. The basil, lemon, Cachaça and Prosecco are ingredients that deliver a tasty and refreshing magic potion.
For the basil syrup ★ 100g sugar ★ 10cl boiling water ★ 1 handful fresh basil
1 2
Pour the boiling water over the sugar in a bowl and mix until it dissolves completely. Let it cool.
Blanch the basil by pouring boiling water over the leaves for five seconds and then plunge the leaves into ice-cold water – this enhances the colour of the leaves.
3 4
Pour the cold sugar syrup over the basil and blitz for 20 seconds.
Filter the syrup and pour it in an airtight bottle. The basil syrup will keep for one week in the fridge.
For the brazilionaire ★ 100ml Fubá Cachaça ★ 100ml lemon juice ★ 50ml basil syrup ★ 200ml soda water ★ 50ml Prosecco Mix all the ingredients in a punchbowl and serve chilled.
issue 02 dylan | 23
Creative Capital Dublin is bursting with design talent. Lizzie Gore-Grimes meets up with six inspiring minds making their mark on the city. Portraits by Anthony Woods
THE JEWELLER
Chupi Sweetman-pell of Chupi jewellery Chupi grew up in Hollywood – the slightly sleepier Co Wicklow version, that is. Her first passion was food. She wrote a cookbook when she was just 18, entitled What to Eat When You Can’t Eat Anything. Later, in her first year in college, she was scouted by Topshop and ran a label for them for five years, before launching her own jewellery line. “I was the child covered in glitter and glue,” she begins, glowing with good-natured enthusiasm. “At home, we had a big cupboard packed with paints, paper and random bits and pieces, and I was forever making things and customising clothes. Even now, everything from my Mulberry Alexa to my beat-up leather boots is customised, I can’t help myself.” The whole jewellery thing started for Chupi when her fiancé insisted she was working too hard (for Topshop) and suggested she get a hobby. “It had been 24 | dylan issue 02
on my mind that I couldn’t find any jewellery I loved, so I made a few sparkly bits,” she explains. “Then I sold a couple of pieces, a stylist borrowed a ring, The Irish Times featured a necklace, and suddenly I was a jeweller!” As a jewellery designer, Chupi is fascinated by the process of taking a flat piece of metal and transforming it into, say, a beautiful feather. “It seems impossible at first and then amazing when it’s complete,” she grins. “Last week, an email came in from a guy who had just proposed with one of my rings called A Sparkle in the Wild. I love thinking about that happy girl wandering around, showing off her sparkler, and it’s one of my beauties. That makes me feel great.” She finds inspiration everywhere – a collection starts with a little gem, maybe a book, a phrase or a person’s hair
catches her eye. And suddenly she has an image of the first piece in her head. “I also read all the fashion forecasting, and think about what I’m feeling, and what I want ... and the collection begins to take shape. Spring/summer 2013 is all about love – it’s based on A Midsummer Night’s Dream, with wild creatures and twig rings taking centre stage.” In Dublin, Chupi’s favourite area to hang out is the creative quarter around South William Street. “For beautiful things and buzzy places to eat and drink, you can’t beat it,” she says. “I’m part of a design collective called The Loft Market in Powerscourt Townhouse, which also houses the coolest florist in Dublin – Mark Grehan – and my favourite homeware shop, Article. A day spent here and you’d never want to be anywhere else.” chupi.ie
issue 02 dylan | 25
THE WRITER
Helen Seymour, author of Beautiful Noise Helen Seymour gave up a successful career in advertising, moved back in with her mum and took a part-time waitressing job, in order to write her debut novel, Beautiful Noise, which was released earlier this year to rave reviews. The book tells the colourful tale of three young adults who set up their own pirate radio station in Dublin circa 1985. “I always wanted to write, for as long as I can remember,” enthuses Helen. “When I was 14, my English teacher Miss Hogan entered the class into a Penguin Ireland books competition. I came second. I wrote a rather grim story about a little girl who got run over by a car! “I did get side-tracked a little along the way, however, with a 17-year career in advertising – but the desire to write was always there. So I quit the ad world, aged 38, and started the novel that would become Beautiful Noise. When I finally finished it, four years later, I managed to secure a book deal, but for various reasons I decided to self-publish.” Never one to do things by half, Helen set up her own publishing company, printed 3,500 books and pinned down Bono, Roddy Doyle and Eoin Colfer to read it. They all loved it and gave her great quotes. Bono also launched the book at a huge party that Helen organised, attended by over 500 people. “I can honestly say it was one of the most incredible nights of my life!” she beams. Currently, Helen is busy working on the screenplay adaptation of Beautiful Noise – as Irish director John Moore snapped up the movie rights for the book. She is also a big supporter of Fighting Words – the creative writing centre set up by Roddy Doyle to offer school children the chance to write. “You wouldn’t believe what they’re coming up with,” she continues. “Novels, short stories, movies, plays, graphic novels ... it’s literally staggering.” She is also getting ready to start her second novel. “It’s a story that’s been bouncing around in my head for a while,” she says with a grin. We can’t wait. helenseymour.com 26 | dylan issue 02
THE INDUSTRIAL DESIGNERS
AhmAd FAkhry & CiAn CorCorAn of Designgoat Ahmad and Cian met in their final year in NCAD (National College of Art & Design) in 2009 and made the brave move to set up their own firm, Designgoat, a year later – and the pair haven’t looked back since. Known for their uber-modern, paredback style, you’ll find their distinctive design stamp on hip eateries such as Brother Hubbard and 3FE and funky fashion store Indigo & Cloth in Temple Bar (pictured above). “I am originally from Abu Dhabi, but moved with my family to Dublin when
I was very young,” begins Ahmad. Meanwhile his business partner Cian grew up in Dublin with a father who was always making things. “For a long time, I wanted to be a horticulturalist or a botanist,” confesses Cian. “But I knew I’d only be happy if I was making things.” Ahmad wanted to be an architect, “until my cousin gave me a book on Marc Newson and that was it – it was industrial design for me from then on.” Over the years, the pair have worked on numerous projects in Dublin and abroad;
across interior design, product design and graphic design – from coffee shops to coffee machines and even installations in phone boxes and galleries. “If we had to pick our favourite area of Dublin, it would be Dublin 8, specifically the area around our work base, South Studios. It’s proper old Dublin and is a real creative hub with the Fumbally Exchange (studios) and the Fumbally Café.” Next up for Designgoat? “A line of furniture, we hope. We recently designed a chair for a show called Making Things Better in Kilkenny and are excited to see where that might take us.” wearedesigngoat.com issue 02 dylan | 27
THE ANIMATOR
RobeRt etchingham, of Magpie6Media
“As a kid, all I thought about was comic books,” begins Rob. “In woodwork class the other kids made picture frames or cabinets – I made an animation light desk.” And it’s the same one he uses at home today. Having studied animation in Ballyfermot College, Rob was lucky enough to get a job in the industry pretty quickly. “Working in animation is great – it’s fun but it’s also a lot of hard work,” he continues. “You’re constantly up against a deadline and have to be creative under pressure. But when I’m on top of my deadlines and there’s time to really work into a scene, there’s nothing better.” Right now, in Magpie6Media, Rob is working on a new Irish-made show called Inis Spraoi created by Cliff Parrott. “It’s a fantastic looking show,” he enthuses, “one of the best Irish shows I’ve seen. Animation hasn’t started yet, so we’re in pre-production and I’m designing a few of the characters, which is one of my favourite things to do.” Rob finds inspiration all over the city, particularly Stephen’s Green, where he regularly goes to sit and draw people. “Another great spot is Dublin Zoo,” he says. “In animation, animal characters play a big part so you have to learn to draw them properly – I spend a surprising amount of time at the zoo!” Every animator you meet has their own personal project and Rob’s is a comic book called Speakeasy. “It’s an idea I’ve had since college – a gangster prohibition story set in Dublin,” he explains. “There’ll be three issues and I’m about halfway through, but I’d say I’m another year off finishing it. Right now I’m enjoying just drawing it, bringing the characters to life and having fun with it. I have a YouTube channel, Bobetch Productions, where I post my short cartoons … see what you think.” youtube.com/user/bobetch100
28 | dylan issue 02
THE MILLINER
AlvA MAguire Alva Maguire has just put the finishing touches to a hat designed exclusively for the Dylan hotel. This bespoke headpiece will be presented to the lucky winner of the Best Hat competition on Ladies’ Day at the Dublin Horse Show in August. “I think I’ve always had a flair for creative design,” begins Alva. “When I was in college, studying history of art, and then later architecture, I used to make hats and accessories for myself. Then friends and family began to ask me to make some for them. I got some great feedback and that gave me the confidence (after I graduated from UCD) to sign up to study millinery at The Grafton Academy. “I loved it and it was there that I developed my style, which I would describe as sculptural rather than fussy. When I am designing a hat, I like to concentrate on form and structure, creating clean lines and striking silhouettes rather than too much adornment. I like experimenting with both traditional and more unusual materials – combining leather, fur felts, Perspex and various straws to create something unique.” But Alva has only recently focussed exclusively on millinery. Along the way, she worked as a curator in an art gallery and for a time ran her own interior business (where she worked on private homes for The K Club and others). “I still work in interior design from time to time and I think you can see that coming through in my hat designs,” she explains. “Having studied architecture and history of art, I have a real love of form and this influences my work as a milliner – from the concept and design of a hat right through to the physical building of it. “In Dublin, I love the area around Castle Market and Drury Street with its cluster of independent boutiques, like Project 51 and Costume and, of course, lots of great places to eat and drink – Damson Diner and Bagots Hutton being two of my current favourites. If I have a few hours to kill in the city, that is where you’ll find me.”
issue 02 dylan | 29
let’s go
outside
Let Emily Westbrooks tempt you into taking it outdoors and making the most of the city’s urban spaces – there’s a host of al fresco finds right on your doorstep.
W
hen it comes to weather, Ireland gets a bad reputation. You’d think all we get is rain, wind and, well, more rain. We do get our fair share of showers, no one is denying that, but when the sun comes out, there is no better place to be than Dublin. From late spring through the summer months and well into September, Dublin can enjoy days of warm sunshine – perfect for exploring city parks, conquering hiking trails, catching outdoor movies and meandering through the city on a bike. The last thing you want to do on a sunny day in Dublin is spend it indoors. Leave the museums for another day, throw on a light cardigan, tuck your umbrella into your bag (always best to be prepared!) and head out the door.
30 | dylan issue 02
Canal Stroll
a killer BLT on crispy ciabatta. Dublin’s The Dylan hotel is perfectly situated for major stadium, the Aviva, is also right enjoying a beautiful Dublin day. Take a next door, set on the banks of the slow stroll along the banks of the Grand Dodder; it’s an architectural landmark Canal, stopping by the statue of well worth checking out, even if you renowned Irish poet Patrick haven’t a sporting bone in your JUNE Kavanagh on the way. Kavanagh body. The stadium tour is great Bloomsday famously rediscovered his – it’s only an hour long and June 9-15 June 16 marks Bloomsday – poetic inspiration while will bring you into the Leopold Bloom’s famous recovering from surgery on players’ (seriously walk through Dublin in James Joyce’ Ulysses. See the banks of the canal. You impressive) changing rooms scenes reenacted by can join Kavanagh on his and even allow you to run out Joycean fans in full dress across the city. bench while you watch locals onto the pitch from the players’ jog or walk by, and keep an eye out entrance. Kids will love it (01 238 for some of the city’s enormous swans 2300; avivastadium.ie/tours). paddling up and down like something City Centre out of an Impressionist painting. When the sun comes out, Dubliners soak Once you’ve worked up an appetite, up as much of it as they can. On head to nearby Bath Avenue where weekdays, you’ll find St Stephen’s Green Juniors serves a brilliantly buzzy lunch or packed with the 9 to 5 crowd enjoying brunch (01 664 3648; juniors.ie). They do
their lunch, sleeves rolled up and sunglasses on. It can be hard to find a patch of unoccupied grass. But right around the corner, not more than JUly two blocks away is your Street Performance sanctuary on sunny days: the World chamPionShiPS Iveagh Gardens. Tucked right July 12-14 Featuring acrobats, jugglers off Harcourt Street, the sword-swallowers and more, location of the gardens is a this fun festival brings incredible entertainment to well-kept secret, even from Merrion Square. A great some Dubliners. The garden day out for all. was originally the private retreat of the Earl of Clonmel. In 1838, Benjamin Guinness (of the famous Guinness family) turned the garden into Dublin’s public playground. On a summer evening, you might even catch a production of Romeo and Juliet or IrIsh poet Patrick The Tempest as part of the garden’s Shakespeare in the Park season kavanagh famously (dublinshakespeare.com). redIscovered hIs On your way to the Iveagh Gardens, poetIc InspIratIon why not pick up a picnic to enjoy on the lawn? Drop into KC Peaches Café on whIle recoverIng Nassau Street (01 633 6872; kcpeaches. from surgery on com) and fill a few of their little takeaway the banks of the boxes with fresh salads, grab a bottle of delicious Irish-made elderberry and grand canal. raspberry juice, and one of their decadent dark chocolate brownies. Then you’re all set for your peaceful secret garden picnic. the public bike rental system with Howth and Malahide After lunch, head out to explore the city stations sprinkled throughout the city. One of the best things about Dublin is the streets by Dublin Bike (dublinbikes.ie), Cycle through some of the city’s quieter fact that you can leave the city centre and Georgian streets, picking out your be out to the sea or mountains in a blink. favourite door colour as you go – it might Just jump on the Dart, heading north, and be a tough choice between seafoam green in less than half an hour you’ll arrive in and vibrant turquoise – then drop your the picturesque fishing village of Howth. bicycle on Exchequer Street for an early You can work up an appetite awfully dinner. Cornucopia or Fallon & Byrne, quickly with Howth’s famous cliff walk. both known for their scrumptious There are varying lengths, but the August food, have the perfect, secondwhole peninsula walk takes dublin horSe ShoW floor vantage points for roughly five hours, and the August 7-11 The Horse Show at the RDS people-watching as the sun views of the deep blue sea has been a Dublin institution sets. Try Cornucopia’s and far off mountains make it since 1864, with some of the world’s best show jumpers flavourful vegetarian dishes, worth every minute. For a flooding into the city to like butternut squash shorter hike with a stunning compete at the event. Not to be missed. cannelloni and warm apple and view, walk five minutes up the raspberry crumble (01 677 7583; road from Howth train station to cornucopia.ie). While Fallon & Byrne the Deer Park (01 832 2624; deerparkboasts one of the most impressive food hotel.ie). The grounds hold a golf course, halls in the country, plus basement wine castle cookery school and the biggest bar and an upstairs bistro restaurant that rhododendron trees that bloom bright offers a great value pre-theatre menu pinks and purples in early June. Take the Clockwise from above Juniors serves some of the best (three courses for €30). Don’t miss their path behind the golf course up to the brunch and casual eats in Dublin 4; Howth harbour on a glorious sunny day; the statue of poet Patrick Kavanagh on Kilmore Quay cod and chorizo dish summit and prepare to be blown away by Dublin’s Grand Canal Opposite page The Samuel Beckett (01 472 1010; fallonandbyrne.com). the expansive views of Dublin city and bridge that crosses the Liffey. issue 02 dylan | 31
then hop back on the Dart anD travel to Killiney Beach, for a stroll along the pebbly shore, sucking the fresh air into your lungs as you go. Clockwise from top left Fresh seafood best enjoyed alfresco out in Howth; Statue of George Salmon in the front square of Trinity College; Dalkey island seen from Coliemore Harbour; Temple Bar.
the stretch of stunning beaches to the north. Glorious. Back down in the village, stroll along Howth’s fishing pier checking out the fishmongers as you go. You’ll September want to peek over the edge to Culture nigHt September 20 catch a glimpse of Sammy the For one night each year, seal – he and his friends are Dublin institutions stay open late, offering visitors free always begging for scraps. entry to an array of venues For a quick bite, pop into hosting exhibitions, concerts, talks and Beshoffs for the best local fish performances. and chips (beshoffrestaurant. com). Followed by a traditional Irish ice cream cone from Ann’s (01 832 3197; annsofhowth.com) – a creamy, custardy vanilla offering garnished with a Cadbury Anthony Bourdain for its delicious Flake. For finer dining, head to The King seafood platter (01 832 5235; Sitric, lauded by none other than kingsitric.ie), and finish off with a pint and some live music in O’Connells Pub (01 839 5087; oconnellshowth.ie).
Georgian front door.
32 | dylan issue 02
Heritage Centre, catching one of the performances by a talented local living-history theatre company who reenact what it was like to live in the castle (think chilly with lots of chores) in the 1500s. But your best bet to maximise a Dalkey and Killiney sunny day is to sign up for one of the One of the most wonderful destinations literary walking tours of the town that on the south side of Dublin is the seaside take in landmarks and locations from town of Dalkey. Another quick train James Joyce and Maeve Binchy hop away from the city centre, novels (01 285 8366; October this enclave is so picturesque dalkeycastle.com). Open HOuse Dublin October 4-6 that it’s often compared to For lunch, pop into The Enjoy exploring some of Italy’s Bay of Naples. If you Queens for delicious steak Dublin’s most iconic buildings with tours, talks and make the trip, you might served on a hot lava stone events by architects and even run into some of (01 285 4569; thequeens.ie). enthusiasts. Dalkey’s celebrity residents Still up for a little more Bono and his bandmate The Edge walking? Hop back on the Dart call the town home and if you’re lucky and travel one stop to Killiney Beach, for you might even spot one of them on the a stroll along the pebbly shore, sucking school run. the fresh air into your lungs as you go. While you’re here, make time for a visit One thing’s for sure – you’ll sleep, and to Dalkey Castle and the accompanying dream, well tonight.
A watercolour painting by Róisín O’ Shea © 2012
J
ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.
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ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for just €10 per person “ return”.
Hooley Nights For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €48 per person. • • • •
AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES
Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin
l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie
www.jfp.ie
SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARD WINNING A LA CARTE MENU
This is Ranelagh in a nutshell: authentic,
charming, pretty and proud ...
Clockwise from top left Pretty Victorian villas are peppered through the village; a local chills out; freshly baked bread at Cinnamon CafÊ; Ranelagh is just a short LUAS hop from the city; Eatery 120, on the main street, is a great spot for brunch; take your pick of the many great local pubs. Opposite Skinny fries at The Butcher Grill are the perfect accompaniment to the restaurant’s incredible steaks.
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The Borough with a Bite Often described as Dublin’s answer to Brooklyn and the city’s indisputable cuisine capital, Ranelagh is definitely worth spending a (delicious) day in. We’ve drawn up the perfect itinerary, packed with hand-picked highlights. Words and Pictures Nathalie Marquez CourtNey
Clockwise from far left The Best of Italy is packed with quality Italian staples; the Ranelagh LUAS stop; Bow & Pearl boutique keeps the main street looking pretty; gelato from The Best of Italy is one of Ranelagh’s best-kept secrets.
I
t’s safe to say that the Celtic Tiger was kind to Ranelagh. This sleepy suburb just south of Dublin city was transformed into a hip urban village in the 1990s and early noughties, with more gourmet restaurants than you can shake a Michelin star at. Miraculously, the economic boom did not dull this borough’s independent vibe, and locals proudly boast that it’s one of the few places known to man where both Starbucks and McDonald’s have failed to find purchase. This is Ranelagh in a nutshell: authentic, charming, pretty and proud, with property prices to match. It’s a fantastic place to spend a day while on a visit to Dublin. Ranelagh, put simply, is all about food, so arrive hungry. Hop on a green line LUAS at St Stephen’s Green and jump off three stops later. Descend the stairs, and just by the exit you might spy Pinocchio, an unassuming little Italian restaurant that’s very much a local hero. It’s probably a bit early for antipasti nibbles over a glass of red, but bookmark it for later (01 497 0111; pinocchio.ie). Make your way across the road, taking in the quaint facade of McCarthy’s shoe shop, one of the oldest village shops still in business, and kick off your Ranelagh day with a coffee from the tiny kiosk housing Nick’s Coffee
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Company. Not much more than a laidback shed, this is a great spot to stop and sip some deliciously frothy coffee, chat to locals, and get a feel for what’s happening (nickscoffeecompany.com). From here, wander towards the hub of the village centre, or “the triangle” as it’s known locally. You’ll pass Kinara Kitchen, a warm, friendly and well-reviewed Pakistani restaurant, and Redmonds, the village’s longest-standing off-licence, crammed with artisan beers and wines. You might also be tempted by the wares of Bow & Pearl, a chic, light-filled boutique stocking cult brands, up-andcoming designers and quirky homeware (01 496 7408; bowandpearl.com). Instead of continuing down the main vein of the town, swing right at the junction, passing beloved Dublin bagel chain Itsa, and take the first left onto Oakley Road. A pretty little tree-lined street, it’s a great example of Dublin architecture through the years. From grand period properties, including the residence of the Canadian ambassador, to a traditional Gaelscoil (Irish-speaking school) boasting a not-so-traditional multi-coloured extension, this short street packs it in. Once you’ve reached the end, turn right onto Dunville Avenue. Less commercialised but every bit as lively as
the main drag, here you’ll be greeted by a cluster of independent boutiques, shops and cafés. If you’re feeling peckish, nip into Peperina, a homely bistro with a charming herb garden out the back. The owner is Argentinian, so you wouldn’t be going far wrong if you try the steak sandwich, served with fried egg and mayo salsa (01 534 0018; peperina.ie). Amble in and out the boutiques of Dunville Avenue, stopping to admire the facade of Rosalin’s gift and book shop – the hip retro neon sign is the original from the 1970s – or, further up, the rich fabrics and chic accessories of Helen Turkington interiors. In the middle of this micro village lies a real Ranelagh gem, The Best of Italy. It’s easy to spot, thanks to the colourful fruit and veg stacked outside. Inside, the place is crammed with all manner of high quality Italian sundries, but head to the back and you’ll be rewarded with some smooth and creamy gelato – we recommend a scoop of the lemon or pistachio (01 450 1645; thebestofitaly.ie). Afterwards, double back until you hit Morton’s, a third-generation upmarket supermarket that has been there since the
• Open 7 days a week, all year round • Guided tours • Tutored tasting • Gift Shop • Café GLaSSES up To DrInkInG rESponSIBLy
Bury Quay, Tullamore, Co. Offaly, Ireland Tel: +353 (0) 57 93 25015 Email: info@tullamoredew.com www.tullamoredewvisitorcentre.com facebook.com/TullamoreDewVisitorCentre Visit
Clockwise from right Dillinger’s restaurant; Park Drive is part of an historic estate developed by William Pickering during the early 20th century; Tribeca is famous for its chicken wings; colourful postcard-perfect doors.
1930s. It’s come along way since its days of delivering fish via horse and carriage and now it’s the place to jostle with stylish mums for high quality Irish produce. Stock up, exit, turn right and burn off those ice cream calories with a tenminute jaunt to Palmerstown Park, a pretty, leafy Victorian green. Back at the junction, follow the road and meander towards the village. You’ll come out on Anna Villa, the road sandwiched between two of Ranelagh’s favourite pubs, Birchalls and McSorley’s. At weekends, locals have a habit of hitting up Birchalls first until it closes shortly after midnight, after which many can be seen woozily walking, Pied Piper-style, towards McSorley’s, which caters to a younger crowd and plays pop and indie hits until 2am. Among the practical amenities of the village centre lie quirky shops like Muttugly, selling stylish doggy treats and accessories (01 475 9449; muttugly.com), and the Middle-Eastern knick-knacks in
the cave of colourful wonders that is Bazaar Bargain Antiques. You might like to stop for a coffee and fresh and simple panini at buzzy, bijou Italian eatery Er Buchetto. For a quieter treat, pick up a paperback in The Company of Books and enjoy a late-afternoon read over a pint in Smyths or Humphreys, two classic Irish pubs popular with born and bred Ranelagh regulars. At this point, you’ll have worked up a hunger and will have some tough decisions to make as there’s no shortage of choice for dinner and drinks once the sun goes down. Will it be rustic Spanish tapas in La Bodega or wine sipping over risotto at French brasserie La Réserve? Sushi fans will be surprised to learn that down Chelmsford Lane, just off the main drag, sits Michie Sushi, a hidden hideout that is considered to be one of the best sushi joints in the city (01 497 6438; michiesushi. com). Alternatively, you could hit up the local institution that is Tribeca and tuck into a bowl of its famed chicken wings. If you like your dining a little finer than that, look above McSorley’s pub and you’ll find the stylish Wild Goose Grill; the
Then it’s simply a case of closing your eyes, pointing,
and winding up the evening in the first pub you find ... 38 | dylan issue 02
wine list alone is worth dressing up for, with the signature pan-fried goose, served with fresh fig and red wine jus, coming a close second (01 491 2377; thewildgoosegrill.ie). For something slightly more casual, but still retaining a hint of occasion, head to The Butcher Grill, a cool urban steakhouse that could easily be at home in New York’s Meat-Packing District. Set in what used to be a local butchers, the décor is retro and industrial, with warm lighting and design touches that hint to its former life, including a tiled animal mosaic showing the different cuts of beef. Sit on a wooden stool and order your steak with a side of cocktail as the maître d’-cum-DJ dishes up some mellow modern tunes and the traffic streaks outside (01 498 1805; thebutchergrill.ie). Then it’s simply a case of closing your eyes, pointing, and winding up the evening in the first pub you find or jumping on a LUAS and heading back to the slightly brighter lights of the city.
Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie n
n
n
In the last decade, we have seen the beauty industry embrace more traditional, organic and ethicallysourced products.
Seaweed
sensation
have seen the beauty industry embrace a more natural approach with traditional, organic and ethically-sourced products now in great demand. Kira and her husband Mark Walton have always shared a passion for all things organic – Mark’s father was a founding member of the Organic Society of Ireland and his great-grandfather was a harvester for the original seaweed baths in Strandhill. “My brother-in-law, Neil, is also a professional triathlete,” Kira continues. “And over the years, as he was competing, he discovered the restorative power of seaweed baths. The first time he treated his body post-race with a seaweed bath (rather than an ice bath) he was amazed at the plant’s ability to remove toxins from the body and accelerate the healing process.” This inspired Neil to re-open the old Strandhill seaweed baths in 2000. And in 2003, Mark and Kira joined forces with him as the business was expanding apace, welcoming a whopping 40,000 visitors a year. The idea to develop a complementary cosmetics line came soon after as Kira, Mark and Neil wanted to
Kira Walton, co-founder of Voya Cosmetics, talks to Lucy Watts about launching one of the country’s most successful seaweedbased beauty ranges.
W
hen Hurricane Debbie struck the west coast of Ireland in September 1961, not only did it wreak havoc for residents along the coast, but it also signalled the death knell of one of the country’s most enduring indigenous industries: seaweed harvesting. For centuries, seaweed had been used in Ireland as a therapeutic treatment for all manner of ailments. At the beginning of the 20th century, there were an estimated 300 seaweed bath houses in
40 | dylan issue 02
Ireland and nine in the small town of Strandhill, Co Sligo, alone. But by 1960, the industry was already in serious decline – emigration had robbed the region of young, able-bodied harvesters and the market was becoming saturated with an increasing number of glamorouslooking manufactured cosmetics. “Once these chemical-based beauty products hit the shelves,” Kira Walton explains, “Irish people began to see the age-old tradition of ‘taking the waters’ as outdated.” But, thankfully, the industry has come full circle. In the last decade, we
Kira and Mark Walton
VOYA
top 3
The Spa Experience Lazy Days €18 One of the first Voya products sold at the Sligo baths. The box contains dried seaweed to add to a hot bath. Soak and feel sensational. Then let it dry and use again.
me time €57 This lovely antioxidant-rich moisturiser helps to reduce the signs of ageing and protect, condition and tighten skin. Leaving it feeling hydrated and smooth.
softLy Does it €30 A truly luxurious body cream. If you need any convincing about the powers of seaweed, slather some of this on your skin, and when you see how it feels, you’ll be sold.
For a full list of stockists or to buy online, visit voya.ie
“The seaweed in our products is sustainably hand-harvested, and treated within two hours to preserve the plant’s potent active ingredients.” offer visitors to the baths products that they could take away to use as a home spa treatment. “You can’t imagine how wonderfully soft and smooth your skin feels after a seaweed bath, until you’ve had one.” Kira enthuses. And indeed, it has now been scientifically proven that no other known plant contains such comparably high levels of vitamins and minerals as seaweed. And so the Voya brand was born – a brand with a clear vision to create exceptional beauty and skincare treatments, based on the restorative power of natural Irish seaweed. “The seaweed we use in our products,” Kira explains, “ is all sustainably hand-
harvested, and then treated within two hours of being picked, in order to preserve the plant’s potent active ingredients. “Our philosophy is clear. We make sure our harvesting methods – by hand – will never damage the delicate coastal environment that provides us with our certified organic seaweed. And we ensure that no nasty chemicals are used in any of our products.” The ethos of the company seems to have struck a chord with consumers worldwide, as this small Irish brand, that started life in the seaweed baths in Co Sligo, is now stocked across Europe, Asia and North America. A truly inspiring success story.
Lucy Watts checks in to the Seoid Spa in Dunboyne Castle Hotel to road test two very different Voya treatments.
K
ira Walton is from Dunboyne, Co Meath, so there was always going to be a natural affinity between Voya and the Seoid Spa in Dunboyne Castle Hotel. The spa here was one of the first ambassadors for the brand in Ireland and Voya products now form the basis of a variety of therapies on offer. This is the place to come to experience Voya at its luxurious and therapeutic best, just 30 minute’s drive from Dublin city centre.
Voya mermaid’s Purse Body Wrap (55 minutes, from €70) After an invigorating body buff, I was delighted to say goodbye to all that city-living dead skin. I was then encased in a seaweed cocoon and wrapped in an insulating blanket. As I lay there, wallowing in the warmth, I swear I could feel the seaweed working its detoxing and hydrating magic. A quick shower followed and then some intensive moisturising – to stimulate blood flow, I was told – all I knew was it felt great. If this is what the mermaids do, they’re certainly onto a good thing. Voya anti-ageing Reviver facial (55 minutes, from €70) This divine treatment is tailored to suit your personal skin type and needs. My skin is super-sensitive, so I was a bit nervous, but I needn’t have been as Voya products contain only natural and organic ingredients. After cleansing and toning, seaweed strips were placed on my skin and although they felt a little unusual at first, I was soon sensing them soothe and hydrate. Judging by how my skin felt afterwards (and the unusually high number of compliments I received), I am an absolute convert to the power of seaweed. Pampering has never felt so ethical. Seoid Spa, Dunboyne Castle Hotel & Spa, Dunboyne, Co Meath. 01 801 3500; dunboynecastlehotel.com
The hydrotherapy suite at the Seoid Spa
issue 02 dylan | 41
Clockwise from above Glendalough’s famous Round Tower was built almost 1,000 years ago by the monks of St Kevin’s monastery, and stands 33 metres tall; Avoca Mill in the village of Avoca; people enjoying an organic food market in Wicklow; the magnificent Powerscourt House in Enniskerry, built in 1790, offers beautiful grounds to explore, a gourmet café and Tara’s Palace Museum of Childhood; picturesque Enniskerry village; drive from Dublin to Wicklow through the stunning Sally Gap; a statue of bronzed children at Powerscourt Gardens.
42 | dylan issue 02
Wicklow Way
EscapE ...
Dublin’s closest neighbour, County Wicklow, is just a 35-minute drive away from the city centre. But that short journey will take you into another world, discovers Emily Westbrooks.
W
hether you travel by car, bus, train, or even (for the most adventurous) bicycle, Wicklow is one of the most stunning places in Ireland to escape the din of the city. From the rugged, heather-ridden Wicklow mountains to the sloping sheep-filled pastures and the stunning lakes, this county offers unparalleled scenery and a slew of options for adventure. Leaving Dublin behind, you’ll soon notice the scenery starts to change as you pass through the last of the suburban neighbourhoods and begin the winding route towards the mountains. For sheer dramatic impact, make sure to take the scenic route through the Sally Gap, winding your way through seat-gripping hairpin turns before ending up in the charming little town of Laragh. If you need a pit stop here, The Wicklow Heather (thewicklowheather.com) is a reliable spot for a bowl of homemade soup and a
chunky slice of homebaked brown bread. Then it’s on to the glacial valley of Glendalough, which is flat-out lovely – ideal for a leisurely afternoon stroll along the wooden pathway to the monastic village or a six-hour hike in all the gear (0404 45600; glendalough.ie). Start by exploring the ghostly ruins of the monastic settlement founded by St Kevin in the sixth century, then make your way to the Upper Lake and the Spinc, “Pointed Hill” in Irish, where you can gaze out over the lake and valley below. Looking for a little more action? Try your hand at fly fishing on the Annamoe River (0404 45470) on the outskirts of the Glendalough Valley, which is a wonderful way to spend a day. But if all that hillwalking and hiking sounds like too much effort, you might prefer to soak up the scenery in a more refined setting. Namely Powerscourt House and Gardens in Enniskerry (01 204 6000; powerscourt.ie).
Built in 1730, Powerscourt House sits on grounds where the original castle stood since the 1300s. The house today is a magnificent place to visit for old and young alike – the little people will be particularly enchanted by a visit to Tara’s Palace and the Museum of Childhood (on the grounds) where they can explore the enormous Victorian doll’s house with all its exquisite miniatures. Beyond the house, take a stroll through the extensive gardens, visiting the rose garden in bloom or the water lily-filled pond. In the summer months, Powerscourt Gardens is the backdrop for theatrical productions including stagings of The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes. (Visit powerscourt.ie for a list of events all year round). Before you head off, stock up on edible artisan treats from the Avoca-run Terrace Café and make the (5km) trip to the nearby Powerscourt Waterfall, which is easily one of the most stunning picnic spots in the country.
enniskerry village This gorgeous liTTle village daTes back To The 1860s and is uTTerly charming in every way wiTh iTs picTure-posTcard shopfronTs, georgian sTable arches and preTTy village square. leave yourself aT leasT an hour or Two here To explore The shops – The village sTore for inTerior finds, The parTing glass for wonderful wines and, of course, poppies for hearTy, homemade fare and amazing cakes (poppies.ie).
issue 02 dylan | 43
A visit to Wicklow wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the original Avoca Mill in the little town by the same name. Avoca Handweavers is an Irish institution, with homewares stores and cafés sprinkled around the country. But the Avoca Mill in County Wicklow is worth a special visit as it is the original mill, dating from 1723 and still running today. You can take tours of the mill and learn about its history with one of Ireland’s most popular brands, as well as see today’s talented Avoca weavers at work whipping wool into beautiful, colourful scarves right before your eyes (0402 35105; avoca.ie).
For something memorably different, book a day out at Falconry Ireland (0402 35028; falconryofireland.com) where you can try your hand at one of Ireland’s oldest field sports, working directly with birds of prey. Another equally fascinating, and slightly chilling, experience can be found at Wicklow Gaol (0404 61599; wicklowshistoricgaol. com). Come and experience first-hand what it was like for the hordes of notorious prisoners who served their time here in the 18th century, before being shipped out to the penal colonies. You’ll hear plenty of colourful stories and a few ghost ones too!
Insider’s guide Grainne Murphy, Dylan Hotel’s director of sales, and Wicklow native, gives us her top tips on where to go in the county …
Clockwise from above Woodenbridge Golf Club in the Vale of Avoca; the counter at The Tap; beautiful fresh fish served at The Park Restaurant in Arklow; buttons at Avoca Mill.
44 | dylan issue 02
Walk the beach Any chance I get, I head straight to Brittas Bay. With its rolling sand dunes it has to be one the most beautiful beaches in Ireland. I only wish I had a dog! Pick uP the Perfect gift The original Avoca Handweavers in Avoca is still my personal favourite. It’s the perfect place to spend a couple of hours happily browsing and come away with one of their beautiful woollen blankets or scarves, made on site there at the mill. StoP for lunch The Tap is a lovely restaurant/café/wine bar, located just outside Redcross. If I am meeting a friend for coffee, this is where we’ll go. The décor is lovely and cosy and you can even pick up a few delicious morsels for the road from their gourmet store (thetap.ie). eat out Arklow is my home town, so I am biased, but I am not alone in loving The Park – the Restaurant Association of Ireland also awarded them best restaurant in Wicklow 2011 (theparkrestaurant.ie).
go for a Pint My own local, Christy’s in Arklow, is always a great option. It’s owned and run by Michael Murray of McSorley’s in Ranelagh and has great music and bar staff. Another top spot is The Glenmalure Lodge, owned by the Dowling family. It’s a wonderfully cosy starting point for exploring the Wicklow Mountains. Only snag is, it’s often too cosy and that hike never actually happens! take the kidS to Clara-Lara Funpark in the spectacular surroundings of Rathdrum. Here among oak trees and mini-lakes you’ll find assault courses, water slides, boating lakes, kiddie-karts, tree houses and playgrounds. But word to the wise: bring a spare set(s) of clothes per person – not just per child (claralara.com). get in a round of golf I have been a member of Woodenbridge Golf Club since I was ten, so have a real soft spot for the place. The club dates back to 1884 and is set in the stunning vale of Avoca. A beautiful spot (woodenbridge.ie).
A R t C R e At e d by n At u R e
THE MUSEUM IS HOME TO IRELAND’S
LARGEST PERIOD DOLL’S HOUSE
Amethyst
Ocean Jasper
• Gemstones • Fish fossils • Pearls • Pendants • Bracelets • Earrings • Stone gifts • Petrified wood • Investment pieces • Salt lamps • Stones for healing • Swarovski crystals
Explore the magical miniature world of Tara’s Palace Museum of Childhood at Powerscourt House. Each room in Tara’s Palace is furnished with miniature masterpieces, hand painted ceilings and hand crafted All profits d to wooden and marble floors. are donate ’s ren Irish Child Perfect for all ages from Charities 5 to 105. Powerscourt House, Enniskerry, Co.Wicklow, Ireland CALL: +353 (0)1 2748090 EMAIL: info@taraspalace.ie
www.taraspalace.ie
Fossil fish, 50 million years old
Ammonite
facebook.com/thestonegallerygreystones
Church Road, Greystones, Co. Wicklow
Tel: (01) 201 0047
For enquires email sales@mercantilegroup.ie
28 Dame Street, Dublin 2
Hotel | Bar | Restaurant | Venue
+353 (0)1 670 7100 | www.mercantilehotel.ie /themercantile
@the_mercantile
Located on Dame Street in the heart of historic Dublin stands a building built in 1835 with a rich heritage, which is now home to the welcoming Mercantile Hotel, bar & restaurant.
Located in the heart
of Dublin City beside Temple Bar
One of Ireland's biggest
late night bars Live music daily
Finest Irish food & drink
Be part of
at The Mercantile
After
Dark
There’s lots to do in Dublin when the sun goes down, discovers Georgia Corcoran. Illustrations by Rachel Corcoran.
issue 02 dylan | 47
D
ublin is an exceptional city to go out in. Whether you’re in the mood for a relaxed night out at the back of a pub or a dazzling one “on the tiles”, Dublin offers stacks of choice. There are a couple of factors that make this city great for going out. For one, Dublin is a compact capital, made for bouncing between places, so if you end up somewhere that feels a bit off, you can easily move on to the next hotspot without any hassle. The other plus to this city is the people – you’ll rarely find yourself out in Dublin with no one to talk to. So whether you’re in the mood for a cocktail in a sultry 1940s setting; up for a high-octane club night or simply looking to hide away in a cosy snug with a pint of Guinness, we’ll show you where to go …
The Sugar Club, housed in a converted cinema, just off Stephen’s Green, is the place to catch cult movie screenings; live music and great dance nights; thesugarclub.com.
48 | dylan issue 02
THE workman’s
The Workman’s is Dublin’s alternative superclub that keeps getting bigger and better. They’ve recently opened the lone ranger-themed Bison Bar – a retro living-room space off the main room upstairs – and added a brand new bar on the smoking terrace. Downstairs generally has a more rock and indie vibe and hosts live bands on the stage several nights a week. The music upstairs leans more towards hip hop, dance and soul although it totally depends on who’s working the decks. Dress coDe Wear whatever you like, besides tracksuit pants. Top Tip The Bison Bar is actually connected through the back stairs into the Workman’s. No need to leave or, on a busy night, queue. 01 670 6692; workmansclub.com.
The Globe & RíRÁ
Upstairs, The Globe, on George’s Street, has an indie pub-like atmosphere, while downstairs in the basement sister club RíRá, plays funky tunes well into the early hours. We’ve seen The Edge take over a corner here. 01 671 1220; theglobe.ie.
Vintage Cocktail Club
Despite being in the centre of Temple Bar, this cocktail club is a class act. The door is very subtly marked and you need to knock or buzz to enter. Inside, displays of taxidermy animals, curtained roomdividers and 1920s Art Deco paraphernalia combine to create a mood of retro indulgence. You can get dinner here from 6pm and brunch on weekends from 12pm; however, the real reason to come is, naturally, the cocktails. Try a bowl of punch (you might want to share) or a Lucien Gaudin cocktail, named after the famous French fencer. Dress coDe Think The Beautiful and Damned meets Midnight in Paris. 01 675 3547; vintagecocktailclub.com.
Long hall
This beautiful old pub housed in a listed Victorian building on George’s Street is steeped in history and colour. Come here for long, cosy chats in the snug and one of the city’s best pints of Guinness. 01 475 1590.
Everleigh Gardens
Although this relatively new hotspot on Harcourt Street is 70 per cant outdoors, you’ll never be exposed to the elements thanks to some clever roof covering. The décor is glossy and slightly kitsch but creates a great sense of fun. The Garden (although, truthfully, it is more of a grown-up playground) is overlooked by a balcony, Romeo and Juliet style, where resident DJs do their dance-music thing. Dress coDe Competitive - think glossy hair, high heels for the girls, and men in shirts and loafers. Drink Their signature drink is served in a colourful watering can with a long straw! Top Tip Tables can be reserved out in the garden. 086 333 7710; everleighgarden.com.
dice bar
The Dice Bar has a happy relationship with the Block T studios across the road, sponsoring their events and welcoming the large overspilling crowds after an opening. As a result this is a good spot to meet both young and established artists and creatives. The DJs spin vinyl, generally old soul 45s. Top Tip Make friends with the owner and you could be invited upstairs for drinks in the back sitting room. 01 633 3936; thatsitdublin.com.
For the best drag in town, head to Panti Bar on Capel Street. If you’re lucky you might catch the legendary Panti herself. She always puts on a great show; pantibar.com. THE Bernard Shaw
This lively pub venue on Richmond Street is known for its great beer garden out back, complete with Big Blue Bus. Grab a seat on the top floor of the Bus (which also serves fresh pizza and shisha) and look down at the cool kids. To drink, you’ll find pitchers of all the regulars, plenty of esoteric craft beer and a selection of salt-of-the-earth cocktails. 085 712 8342; bodytonicmusic.com.
THE Little Green
This sweet little hipster café/bar on High Street, just around the corner from the Guinness Storehouse, offers craft beers, boutique teas and coffee and quality company. It’s serene during the day; head nodding and foot tappingly groovy in the afternoon and highly atmospheric at night. In the know Its sister venue is a gallery across town on Little Green Street, hence the name. littlegreen.ie.
Ukiyo Bar
If you’re looking to embarrass yourself with a karaoke machine, this is the place to be. The restaurant upstairs quickly turns into a dancefloor on busy weekend nights so arrive early to nab a place. MusIc Upstairs, expect upbeat funky tunes, while downstairs, all your favourite anthems and ballads sung by yours truly. top tIp The booths downstairs need to be booked in advance. 01 633 4071; ukiyobar.com.
Odessa
Great décor and a slick finish add a touch of class to this intimate establishment, which was originally set up as a private members’ club but is now open to all. The club is situated over four floors, with a restaurant on the bottom floor and two bar floors and a cool roof terrace up top. Don’t MIss A regular Thursday night, Blanca, has recently taken up residence and is run by Dave O’Carroll and Paul Walsh – the guys responsible for some of Dublin’s most exciting and successful independent club nights at the moment. 01 670 3080; odessa.ie.
Bruxelles
You will find this pub just off Grafton Street, right beside the statue of Phil Lynott (the late lead singer of Thin Lizzy). Bruxelles has broad appeal – you’ll find after-work heads having a drink alongside tourists toting shopping bags and regulars on stools at the bar – not to mention the little clique of metal heads and rockers that always seem to be present. All exist happily side-by-side over pints of Guinness and glasses of Stella Artois. coMe here for Chilled pints of Bulmers when the sun shines on the outdoor terrace. 01 677 5362; bruxelles.ie.
Odeon
The Odeon has recently re-opened its doors to reveal a deliciously decadent nouvelle Hollywood look. The cocktails are delicious and the attendant in the ladies-room has been known to host her own little party on occasion, pumping tunes from her phone. With its fringed lampshades, great swathes of velvet curtain and jewel-coloured seating, there is more than a dash of The Great Gatsby swagger to the place. A 01 478 2088; odeon.ie.
No Name Bar
Ad hoc armchairs, bar stools and comfy couches make this upstairs bar, off Fade Street, an inviting place to end up as daylight fades to dusk. The mood is always funky but friendly. It can get really busy on the weekends though so for the best experience Sunday afternoons or school nights are better. If you can grab a couple of couches it’s a great place to sit around and have a few drinks. The atmosphere is relaxed and not too loud. top tIp Look for the insignia of the snail hanging above the door. prIVAte pArtY If you’re planning a bash, why not book out the boutique hotel next door, it’s owned by the same people and is very cool. 01 648 0010; kellysdublin.com. issue 02 dylan | 49
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131 Slaney Road, Dublin Ind Est., D 11 (opposite Woodies) Phone: 01 8601849 or 01 8601845 info@goccarpets.com Monday to Saturday 9am-5.30pm - Sunday 2pm-5.30pm
SHELBOURNE PARK GREYHOUND STADIUM
South Lotts Road, Ringsend, Dublin 4 | Tel: 01 2026600
For reservations call 1890 269 969 or book online at www.igb.ie/shelbourne-park
ENJOY A NIGHT
Packages to suit all budgets & occasions!! Mid-week DOBBINS GRANDSTAND RESTAURANT packages from only €28.99pp (includes admission, racecard,4 course dinner with tote and bar service to your table)
Saturday night RESTAURANT PACKAGES from only €38.50pp GROUP PACKAGES from as little as €9.99pp Racing Wednesday, Thursday & Saturday nights
(additional Friday night racing in December)
AT
THE DOGS
If you’re staying in the city and are looking for a great value, fun night out then look no further than Shelbourne Park. One of Dublin’s leading night time entertainment venues.
Located just five minutes from Dublin City Centre Dublin Bus (numbers 1 & 77A) or Grand Canal Dart only a 5 minute walk away.
It’s a thrilling night out not to be missed suitable for all the family!
www.facebook.com/shelbourne.park
ICOnIC STYLE
Classic style meets modern technology with the new Fujifilm X100S camera. And it’s not just the retro look that we love – it also offers the world’s fastest autofocus speed of just 0.08 seconds. The camera also comes with a smart shoulder strap, €1,099.99, 01 677 7179; connscameras.ie.
On the go
Ashling O’ Loughlin rounds up the latest travel gadgets, gizmos and essentials to see you through your trip in style.
CLeVeR SeW AND SEW
Don’t get caught out by a missing button n or any other mending emergency with this cute te paisley travel kit. This compact case contains needles, folding scissors, and four mini reels of thread, around €4.50, dotcomgiftshop.com.
HEADS UP Created by legendary music producer Dr Dre, Beats headphones offer music lovers a whole new listening experience. And with the likes of Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj jumping onboard to promote them, it’s pretty safe to say that these are also the coolest headphones on the market. Beats over-ear headphones, €179.99, arnotts.ie.
WInGInG It
SnAZZY SPEAKERS
ChARGe It
Forget searching for a USB portal, this MU folding USB adaptor allows you to charge smartphones and all your other small USB gadgets. Around €30, from firebox.com.
Perfect for travelling by car or airplane, this super-snug pillow offers great support for the head and neck, helping you catch some shut-eye onboard. Available in a range of colours and sizes, €24.95, merowings.com.
This gramophone speaker is pocket-sized and portable, making it ideal for taking on your travels. The speaker works as an amplifier for the iPhone 4 and comes in a range of cool colours, such as black, green and orange, around €9, from bunkerbound.com.
ALL WEATHER BUDDY The new Sony HDR AS-15 camcorder is the ideal piece of equipment for those planning to brave the elements. Designed for shooting in mountains, water or anywhere else your trip might take you, this rugged camcorder will make sure those memorable moments get recorded no matter what the weather, €289.99, 01 677 5594; cameracentre.ie.
PASSPORt CHECK
It’s the most important thing you’ll bring away with you, and there’s no reason it can’t be the most stylish as well. Dress your passport in this faux-leather cover with vintage map design, around €17.50, Wild & Wolf, hamptonblue.co.uk or find similar at Avoca on Suffolk Street; avoca.ie.
issue 02 dylan | 51
Ireland’s Largest Selection of Waterford Crystal, Irish Design, Gifts, Jewellery, Fashion and Accessories.
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www.kilkennyshop.com
Getaway in style Get smart with Ashling O’Loughlin’s seven savvy tips to better travel.
1
Pack smart Anyone who says there’s no exact science to packing has obviously never tried to cram a pair of stilettos into the same suitcase as a giant inflatable beach ball. Thank the lord, then, for the Packing Pro app. Tell it where you’re going, how long for and who with, and it’ll spit out a suggested list of what you might need, split up into essentials (passport, currency), clothes, gadgets and more, with separate lists for additional family members. Packing Pro is available on iPhone (€2.69).
2
Power off Instead of trying to cram your laptop, tablet, mobile and lumpy chargers into your already overstuffed hand-luggage, take the time when travelling to switch off. Make it a no-tech zone and settle back with a good book. We all need time out from the ubiquitous blinking cursor.
3
Hydration station Drink up. Water, that is. Air travel is hugely dehydrating so try and be good and avoid caffeine and alcohol and keep sipping the water bottle instead. A spritz of spring water for the face is also a very handy little friend to have, particularly if you have slept on the plane and are in need of a little freshen-up on arrival.
4
sock it to me Sexy they are not, but flight socks are a good idea for anyone flying long distance. They are proven to help prevent Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) by helping to improve blood flow. They’re cheap to buy and are available at all airports, so no excuse.
5
work it out Try not to stay in your seat for the full flight, as you’ll end up feeling crampy and agitated. Walk around the plane every now and again to
Best face forward
6
double uP Pare back your washbag by packing clever dualaction beauty products such as the new Garnier Ambre Solaire BB Cream Sun Protection SPF 50 (€24.40) which boasts all the skin perfecting, glow-enhancing benefits of the original BB, plus a whopping SPF 50. It’s all you need for sun-smart, sheer summer skin. Clever.
7
sea of calm For the nervous or even mildy anxious flyer, Bach’s Rescue Remedy is a great elixir to ease any pre-flight tension. And now, the all-natural remedy is available in (relatively tasty) pastille form.
3
1
Beauty journalist Ellie Balfe shares her top travel tips … “Use a tinted moisturiser or BB cream for light but even coverage to hide any tiredness while travelling, as well as a cream blusher to pep up the complexion and add a dewy glow. Waterproof mascara is essential; I would recommend Lancôme Hypnôse every time - it’s amazing! Make sure to pack good cleansing face wipes to take said mascara off again. When on long flights, I would advise using a moisturising mask to keep skin hydrated, and really massaging it into the skin. Layer on eye cream and lip balm and keep drinking water. Make-up-wise, you can’t beat a great orangey-red lipstick in the sun, it makes your skin look more tanned and teeth appear whiter.”
keep your circulation moving. You can also do some gentle rotation exercises while seated – gently moving your head, neck and ankles in slow, easy circles will help alleviate aches and pains.
4 2
5
6
1 Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, €19 2 Lancôme Hypnôse mascara, €27 3 Nivea Tinted Moisturising Day Cream, €5 4 Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche Skinscent, €53 5 MAC Morange Lipstick, €18 6 Shiseido Perfect Hydrating BB Cream, SPF 30, €38.
issue 02 dylan | 53
La Belle...Style defined
La Belle Collection exclusive to Villeroy & Boch.
IDEAL BATHROOMS & TILES Ardmore House, Lower Ballymount Rd., Walkinstown, Dublin 12. Phone: (01) 4609911 Web: www.idealbathrooms.ie
history
of the house
In its time, the century-old Dylan hotel building has welcomed Queen Victoria’s daughter and housed hundreds of trainee nurses. Lucy Watts explores the property’s fascinating past.
A
t the beginning of April, 1900, Queen Victoria’s daughter, Princess Helena of Schleswig Holstein, travelled to Dublin to lay the foundation stone for a new building. One which still stands proud today – and is home to the boutique Dylan hotel. Back in 1900, however, its purpose was more practical, as it was built to house the trainee nurses employed in the hospital around the corner on Baggot Street. As the committed President of the Royal British Nurses’ Association, and in her attempts to improve the social standing of the women who gave their lives over to the profession, Princess Helena made efforts to bring attention to the issue whenever the opportunity presented itself. Almost 90 years later, when the building was being redeveloped, the
architects were surprised to discover that beneath the building’s srikingly ornate and decorative façade, the interior was particularly plain – with no plasterwork or decorative features to speak of. But this contrasting exterior/interior style was quite common among the architecture of industrial buildings at the time. Often, buildings that were destined for very practical purposes were furnished with ornate exteriors that seemed at odds with the enterprise. The architect of the original Nurses’ Home, Albert Edward Murray, also designed a purpose-built seed warehouse for Messrs David Drummond & Sons in the centre of the city, but there was nothing ordinary about the building’s exterior. Indeed, it continues to look impressive today as the home of Hodges Figgis bookshop on Dublin’s Dawson Street.
Murray’s designs were easily distinguishable to the quick-witted citizenry of Dublin, due to the yellow and orange toned moulding that he used to decorate them. These materials, Ruabon brick and buff terracotta, were sourced from Messrs Dennis clay mines in Ruabon, Wales, and became known as Murray’s Mellow Mixture, after a popular tobacco of the time. In fact, the workshop that operated alongside this mine was capable of mass-producing a wide variety of essentially interchangeable parts that Murray used in other projects. Examples of this can be seen in the swags of fruit noticeable on the Nurses’ Home, which were also used in the frieze on the west wing of the Rotunda Maternity Hospital. The gable of the Nurses’ Home is also identical to that of the Dublin Working Boys’ Home on Lord Edward Street. In Murray’s original drawings of the Nurses’ Home, the elaborate exterior detailing is only loosely drawn. This again was not an uncommon practice of the era: the ornamentation was the responsibility of master craftsmen who worked on the project alongside the architect, though they rarely – if ever – got the credit to the extent they perhaps deserved. No one, however, could dispute the value of Murray’s legacy. His Dublin buildings are a shining example of Victorian architecture, with the Dylan hotel standing today as one of his finest.
Top left A watercolour drawing by Ken Edmondson of the Nurses’ Home in 1989. Above The Dylan hotel building today.
issue 02 dylan | 55
Last Word
How did you get into comedy? My career as an Ike Turner impressionist took a real dip in the late 1990s but I didn’t give up on show business. I got back up again and found myself a job – I worked as Marty Whelan’s chauffeur for seven years. All the wise-cracking I did driving him to and from the Lyric FM studios paid off when he suggested I give comedy a go. I’ve literally never looked back since! What is your favourite city in the world and why? Cork is brilliant and it’s pretty much packed full of my sisters. Also, it has a Butter Museum.
What are you working on at the moment? I bought a chest of drawers for €20 on the street and I think I’m going to wallpaper it. The drawers stick and my dad said to rub them with a candle. So, I’m mainly working on rubbing a candle on some old furniture. Tomorrow, I will begin sanding. What do you love about Dublin? I love the canals. I actually was the bright stick trapped in that poem (Canal Bank Walk by Patrick Kavanagh)! I was dressed as a bright stick that day and I did get stuck and a certain bearded poet did nothing to free me, just made some notes as I struggled. Artists can be brazenly selfish, you know. Where is your favourite place in Dublin to hang out? Sometimes my friend
Funny girl
We caught up with Cork-born comedienne Maeve Higgins to find out what makes her tick … it turns out we’re none the wiser! Tom has parties on his roof top and I love them. Although, the whole time I’m there I don’t really enjoy them because I’m too busy thinking “I’m at a party, on a rooftop. Have I made it? Hope I don’t fall. What do people talk about at parties?” Where do you go to escape from it all? I take my beau and we go to a little place I like to call Maui. Where is the coolest place you have ever been? Des Bishop’s car. Front seat, I swear.
56 | dylan issue 02
Where would you go to listen to live comedy in Dublin? The International Bar on Wicklow Street or The Workman’s Club or The Ha’penny Bridge Inn. Fill your boots with laughter. What has been the most memorable moment in your career to date? Eleanor McEvoy snubbing me in Supermac’s stands out. What is most important to you? My virginity. It’s a precious gift and I’m prepared to wait a long time, until I’m quite elderly, to give it up.
What was the last item of clothing you bought? Well, I tried on my friend Josie’s dress when she was away and I broke the zip. I just collected it from the tailors, does that count? What are you reading at the moment? Flannery O’Connor: The Complete Stories. In emoticons, I feel like a heart, then a puppy, then a blushing smiley face, then a sun, when I read her writing.
What scent do you wear? Right now I’m trying to trick a lamb into believing I am her mother, so I’ve rubbed a dead ewe’s pelt all over me. Quite outdoorsy. Musky, but not too musky. What do you believe in? Writing. Nature. And people, particularly Beyoncé.
Maeve Higgins’ book We Have A Good Time … Don’t We? is out now in all good bookshops.
where food meets fire
Dublin’s most talked about restaurant of 2013 ‘Its got a corporate grown up look, ASADOR is impressive’ Catherine Cleary, Irish Times ‘If a job is worth doing, its worth doing well & you’ll get that in spades at ASADOR’ Ross Golden Bannon, Sunday Business Post
Flames, Flavour, Warmth & Cocktails. Visit ASADOR on Haddington Road for a different level of Barbecue. ASADOR, Haddington Road, Dublin 4. e: reception@asador.ie t: +353 1 254 5353
- Guided Factory Tour - Opulent Retail Store - The World’s largest collection of Waterford Crystal
Book your tour online today www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Join us on
House of Waterford Crystal The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland Call:+353 (0)51 317 000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com