66BEST BESTHOT HOTDOGS: DOGS:AACLASSIC CLASSICSUMMER SUMMERFAVORITE FAVORITEPG.40 PG.40
THE TASTY
side
OF AUSTIN
Passport TO INTERNATIONAL
FOOD
WE’VE CREATED
A More Perfect
UNION
At Easton Park, your $50 monthly HOA dues include use of all the amenities at The Union, from the resort-style pool and workout center to event facilities and more! Located just 12 miles from downtown, Easton Park is a vibrant community with more than 350 acres of planned trails, parks, and green space. It’s everything you love about Austin, with a welcoming lifestyle and beautiful homes from leading builders. Our newest neighborhoods, Union Park and Skyline Park are now selling—keep an eye on our website, newsletter and social media for more information. Or come out for yourself and see what all the excitement is about. *$50 dues only cover the master association fees. For more detailed information regarding Easton Park HOA dues please email us at EastonParkInfo@brookfieldrp.com
VISIT US AT eastonparkatx.com 2 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
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Stylish & Efficient Let the local experts at Budget Blinds help keep the heat out this summer!
Let the light shine inwhen you want it! We’re your local neighborhood experts and we’re backed by North America’s #1 provider of custom window coverings. Here at Budget Blinds East Austin, we do it all for you: from design, to measuring, to install because we think everyone—no matter the budget— deserves beautiful style, outstanding service, and the peace-of-mind of the best warranty in the business.
bquick@budgetblinds.com | 512-900-8299 | m.budgetblinds.com/eastaustin
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1023 Springdale Rd. Ste.10A, Austin, Texas
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URBAN MODERN LIVING 2113 Greenwood Ave. NOCHE ON GREENWOOD IS A NEIGHBORHOOD THAT BELONGS TO FOLKS WHO CRAVE MODERN DESIGN, LOVE THE AUSTIN OUTDOORS, AND DESIRE TO BE WALKING DISTANCE TO HEB, ALAMO DRAFTHOUSE, MUELLER PARKS, RUNNING TRAILS, AND MANOR ROAD BREWERIES. • • •
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A Zen Garden Development
Opening 3rd Quarter 2019 www.eightfolddevelopments.com
EIGHTFOLD Austin is committed to ensuring everyone is living their healthiest life. This is possible through our many Wellness amenities on-site EIGHTFOLD is a mixed-use development that will feature office, hospitality, and retail spaces with modern amenities. WELLNESS AMENITIES AT EIGHTFOLD AUSTIN ◆
Access to Fitness Centers, Classes, and Community Bicycles
◆
Exercise Station
◆
On-site Wellness Center
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Massage Therapists
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Basketball Courts
◆
Volleyball Courts
◆
Yoga & Meditation Facilities
◆
Hike & Bike Paths
◆
Zen Gardens & Pond
3443 Ed Bluestein Blvd., Bldg. V, Ste. 100, Austin, TX 78721 | 512-345-7000 | www.eightfolddevelopments.com
Tucked away on a quiet residential street, HŌM Condominiums offers residents a place to call their own away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Enjoy local art galleries, breweries, and exciting recreation just around the corner. Or take a short drive to the bars and shops along East 7th or Downtown. You can enjoy everything that East Austin has to offer knowing you can return to your own peaceful retreat at the end of the day.
• Private yards and balconies available in select units • Scandinavian inspired design • Newest addition to Austin’s burgeoning East Side • Community pool with ‘Conversation Cove’ • Lush landscaping and eco-friendly rain gardens
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT
WWW.HOMCONDOS.COM
LIVE@HOMCONDOS.COM
3101 GOVALLE AVE, AUSTIN TX 78702
contents
26 Publisher’s Note 13 Local 14
44 features 26 First, We Feast
Art+Entertainment 17 Go+Do 37 Home+Away 43
14
44 Big Ideas, Small Spaces The notion of living small isn’t something everyone can get behind. But for creatives Kim Lewis and Joey Puterbaugh, it was a challenge they were willing to take on—even with a growing family. Get a glimpse inside the couple’s colorful 560 SF tiny home.
Sip+Taste 49 8 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
From Ethiopian to Korean to Columbian and everything in between, one may be surprised to discover the breadth of international cuisines that can be found in Austin. The wide range of dishes offer a chance to discover a new culture, explore foreign cuisines, and take a trip around the globe, all without stepping foot outside the city limits.
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A NEW YORK BISTRO
IN THE HEART OF AUSTIN www.gothamatx.com DINNER / BRUNCH / HAPPY HOUR / EVENTS
(512) 853-9777
|
1700 East 2nd (at Chalmers) {the tasty side of austin}
@gothamaustin eastsideatx.com
9
EAST THE TASTY
side
OF AUSTIN
835 N Pleasant Valley Road Austin, Texas 78702 eastsideatx.com
Publisher Nillo Studios, LLC Creative Director Will Bowling Publishing Editor Ashley Bowling
Contributing Photographers Ashley Haguewood, Shelby Bella, Dalton Gaudin, Rachel Benevides, Jody Horton, Leonid Furmansky
Copy Editor Pam Bowen
Distribution Brian Phillips, Will Bowling
Editorial Team Sam Lauron, Alison Bryce
Submissions info@eastsideatx.com
Social & Events Sam Lauron
Advertising advertise@eastsideatx.com
@thefrontpageatx
Photo Editor Eric Morales
@altatudes
Business Development Brenna Parthemore
Contributing Writers Mallory Lehenbauer, Taylor Dutch, Jessi Devenyns, Gabby Frasier, Sam Lauron, Jinky Romero Justin & Kayla Butts
Tag @eastsideatxmag in your favorite East Austin photos and use the hashtag #EASTsideATX to be featured! CONNECT WITH US eastsideatx eastsideatxmag We promise we read every single comment! Copyright Š 2016 Nillo Studios, LLC. EASTside Magazine is published by Nillo Studios, LLC. No portion may be reproduced without express written consent. Editorial or advertising does not constitute advice, but is rather considered informative. Expressed opinions are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ownership.
12 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
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eastside | publisher's letter
F
Local Global Flavors
ood makes Austin go-round, and we love our city, a city where we can discover new flavor combinations on every corner. Is it far fetched to say we can taste the world within our relatively small city? In planning for this issue, we knew we would not have a problem finding delectable places to write about, but we were just overwhelmed by all the food from which to choose, and I must say it took some time to narrow it down. My wife and I have been called ‘Austin food snobs’ because when we end up some place with old friends and family, I always say, “next time you come into town we need to go here or there,” or they assume that Austin food is better. Arguably it is, especially when compared to other small Texas towns. In fact, food is such a huge deal in the daily lives of Austinites. We gather around it. We talk about it. Dare I say, we brag about where we found the best poké, gnocchi, or pho. So, we’ve done the same here. We’ve collected some of the best international cuisines east of Congress Avenue. Each one of these eateries is worth the time to sit down and savor something new and ancient at the same time. Furthermore, it’s that time of year again where we publish one of our most inspiring issues and host our biggest event of the year. The Inspirational Women in Business Networking event is in its 3rd year, and continues to grow and get better with each time. We have partnered up with a new space on East 6th Street to throw a fantastic event where you can shake hands, talk biz, make relationships with leaders and like-minded people while eating and drinking some of East Austin’s best food. Learn more about our networking event at www.eastsideatx.com/womensevent. Enjoy the read, and we look forward to seeing you at our upcoming Women in Business event! Until next time, Will Bowling
side
A diversely populated STEAM school with infant sign-language and Spanish language instruction.
Limited Fall Vacancies All Year Care (6 weeks to 4 years) • Christian education reinforces the values of generosity, forgiveness, thankfulness, love and responsibility • STEMscopes curriculum • Reggio-Emilia inspired approach to education
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66BEST BESTHOT HOTDOGS: DOGS:AACLASSIC CLASSICSUMMER SUMMERFAVORITE FAVORITEPG.40 PG.40
THE TASTY
Photo: Katie Wnukoski
OF AUSTIN
3407 Red River Street Austin, TX 78705 7 AM-6 PM | 12 months a year
On the Cover
CentralAustinUSAS@Upbring.org
Shelby Bella shot this gorgeous photo at the Russian House. The funny thing about this is feature is we set up cover shoot at two different restaurants. As we were placing them in, we ran across this beautiful photo and immediately knew we had our cover.
USASCentralAustin
or take a virtual tour at:
Passport TO INTERNATIONAL
{the tasty side of austin}
FOOD
Upbring.org/usasca eastsideatx.com
13
eastside | local
“By 10 years old, they said I was on my own. I had to raise my own money.”
Integrated into the Fabric of Austin Pio Renteria: Growing Up in East Austin WORDS BY JESSI DEVENYNS PHOTO BY ERIC MORALES
Robertson Hill in the Swingin’ Sixties. A house on East 10th Street was home to 10 children, one of whom remembers endless meals of rice and beans accompanied by tortillas as being the catalyst that prompted him to get an education.“When I worked for Education Services, they provided and paid for my education, wherever I wanted to go. So I went to UT [because] they had night school.”
“T
hey had better food,” remembers Pio of the Palm School where he first began his education. Today, almost 70 years later, Pio still lives in East Austin where his taste in food has evolved, but his quest for selfedification has never wavered. Part of Pio’s drive for learning stemmed from his childhood experiences in segregated East Austin where he grew up on the border streets between the Mexican American neighborhoods and the African American population. In his early years, he remembers living in a
14 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
home with only one faucet and an outhouse. By the time he was 15, his family had moved into a home that was owned by Ben White and subsequently by the Guadalupe Neighborhood Development Corporation (GNDC). “It was a row house. It was two rooms. All the boys slept in one room, and all the girls slept in the other room,” he recalls. Pio says that former Council Member Ben White’s son was his junior high gym coach. Beyond being a coincidence, Pio says it was also a remarkable “experiment for integration.” Outside of school, things were more naturally
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mixed. Right down the street from his childhood home was Charlie’s Playhouse, a legendary jazz and blues club and East Austin’s first African American fire station, Fire Co. No. 4, which was constructed in 1886. “It was a really beautiful, historic looking fire station,” he reminisces. Today the property is two duplex affordable housing projects owned by the GNDC. However, the history that created these East Austin cultural epicenters also came with a stark reality for Pio. Although he explains that “because we were considered white,” segregation was not as explicit for Mexican Americans as it was for African Americans. However, during his childhood, he remembers the unspoken rule that “we weren’t allowed to be caught west of Congress at night.” With childhood memories that repeatedly prompted Pio to question the status quo, it’s unsurprising that his taste for politics whetted. Although politics have always been a point of interest, Pio pursued a 34-year career at IBM, before returning to serve his East Austin district as a two-time elected Council Member. Through a roundabout career, Pio explains that he’s not surprised he ended up on the dais. Thanks to being raised amid the tumultuous times of integration in the South, politics, he says, “have always been fascinating.”
{the tasty side of austin}
eastsideatx.com
15
World Interiors Fine Furniture
YOUR HOME. YOUR ETHOS.
BE BOLD. (512) 821-1302
8219 Burleson Road, Ste. 500, Austin, TX 78744 worldinteriors.com @worldinteriors
16 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
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As the number four team in their conference, Austin Bold FC is quickly bonding with their city in their first season. p.20
Art+ entertainment August +Sept 2019 18 sculpted
art
DISCOVER HOW SCULPTOR DANA YOUNGER INFUSES TECHNOLOGY INTO HIS ART PROCESS
20 enter-
tainment
AUSTIN’S FIRST PROFESSIONAL SOCCER TEAM
HITS THE GROUND RUNNING
22 event
calendar
OUR FAVORITE
SUMMER EVENTS HAPPENING IN AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER
eastside | art
Beauty in the Process Technology and Art Create Big Ideas. WORDS BY JINKY ROMERO PHOTOS BY ERIC MORALES
Art doesn’t always need to be madness or chaos. East Austin sculptor Dana Younger talks about the process and technique in his creative journey. 18 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
Y
ounger, who first discovered his love for the arts through theater, has been creating sculptures for almost 20 years now. As a partner at local creative design and fabrication firm, Blue Genie Art Industries, he and the team are responsible for a number of stand-out pieces around the city. Younger’s love for process and innovation has led him down several interesting paths in his journey as an artist, digital fabrication being one of them. At the very heart of Younger’s technique are technology and creativity. He first sculpts his piece in clay and then laser scans it, creating a 3D mesh. Then, digitally, he utilizes various computer software to manipulate each piece of art. He then prints it back out of the computer through a CNC machine: a device he actually brought to Blue Genie in the early 2000s, a time when it was a lot less accessible. The machine is the opposite of a 3D printer, wherein the 3D printer is an additive process, Younger’s process is a reductive one. “I love a puzzle, which is why I like the digital fabrication. Everything is a puzzle, and everything is a process,” he explains. The only exception for this process-oriented artist is concepting ideas, which are always central to any piece of work he produces. He describes his concep-
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tualization journey as the only thing that is non-linear about his creative process. Having created pieces and exhibitions focused on nature, gender, the Western genre – to name a few – Younger’s concepts cannot be pinned down on a single thought, but they are always heavily grounded on meaning. Younger complements these concepts and commentary by putting a lot of weight on accessibility. He recognizes that relatability and relevance are key to getting his audience to take a step back and try to truly look at the piece and what it has to say, which is why he gives his work as many access points as possible. “I think that when the audience can access something by seeing a reflection of themselves or an emotion they understand, they can more readily accept the concept. It’s difficult to know what a piece is saying, but if it reminds you of something, you sit there, and you realize ‘Oh, it’s telling me something!’” he shares. These access points manifest in different ways and forms in his sculptures, such as size and beauty, but his most preferred way is relating through the human figure, precisely because it’s a direct representation of ourselves. As some-
one who thrives on solving puzzles though, the figure is something he enjoys continuing to understand. Figuration challenges him, and he admits figuring out how to represent the human figure accurately has kept him engaged for years.
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Younger continues to innovate and evolve this style, with his newest direction exploring the intersection of figuration and technology. This new direction presents a broad range of possibilities for Younger. Distortion and anamorphic art are at the forefront of this new venture, with pieces exploring how digital media distorts our presentation of self. Younger makes all this magic happen in his Cherrywood studio. Proud to call East Austin home, he shares that the community itself is a driving force in his work. “East Austin is about making – whether it’s music, art, culture,” he candidly explains. “There’s a concentration of people who are just full of energy, doing all kinds of amazing things to make our world more interesting and better – it’s hard not to get inspired by that.”
Contact:
danayounger.com @danayounger_sculptor
At the Mueller Farmer’s Market Wednesdays 5-8 PM
Delectable gluten free baked goods! Birthday Cakes • Custom Cookies • Special Events SWEETCHARLIGIRL.COM | @SWEETCHARLIGIRL | (512) 771-5017
{the tasty side of austin}
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19
eastside | entertainment
A New Team
A New Opportunity WORDS BY TAYLOR DUTCH PHOTOS COURTESY OF AUSTIN BOLD FC
As the first professional soccer team in the area, Austin Bold FC strives to create a connection with the local community.
I
making a fallen teammate feel lifted up, which echoes Serrano’s mission with this new squad. “First, I want to bring good values to the game. It’s about the human being first, not just the player,” Coach Serrano says.
before landing in Austin. Cedar Park graduate, 31 year old Midfielder Sonny Guadarrama, spent a portion of his professional career playing for teams in Mexico. For both players, representing a club in their hometown was not an option until now. “Every game that we play here has so much more meaning for me,” Sonny admits. “Every game, I want to go out and give the best version of myself.”
That bond was evident in the game against in-state rivals San Antonio FC when the team played a video tribute for injured player Jorge Troncoso before winning the match 4 to 2.
His players come from around the globe – Chile, Netherlands, France, and Saudi Arabia to name a few – to play the game for the first ever Austin-based team in the Division II sanctioned league of the U.S. Soccer Federation. In addition to an international contingent, the roster also includes standouts from the local community. For the players who grew up in the Austin area, being able to finally play for a team in their hometown is a dream realized.
For a moment, the game, the need for more goals, and the desire to beat the opposing squad was all put on hold. What mattered in that moment was
Forward Kris Tyrpak, 26, a graduate of Dripping Springs High School, played for seven different teams around the country
Coach Serrano found that talent almost immediately with 16-year-old forward Julian Gaines, a former Lonestar SC
n the club’s first season ever, Austin Bold FC is creating a bond with the city as well as each other. That tone is being set by head coach Marcelo Serrano, who has guided the team to a Number 4 standing out of 18 teams in the USL Championship - Western Conference, as of July 22.
In addition to playing for Austin Bold, he also coaches three youth teams for the Lonestar Soccer Club. For Sonny, representing his hometown as a coach and a player has not only elevated his game, but it has also helped create an opportunity for local talent.
On May 29, Austin Bold FC beat San Antonio FC 4-2 at home in a thrilling match played at Bold Stadium, which is adjacent to the Grand Plaza at Circuit of the Americas. 20 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
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The Finest Vintage Wares & Wearables 979 Springdale Road #98 Wed-Sat 11am-6pm & Sun 12-4pm
Night Moves Evening Market In Courtyard Academy star who signed with the Bold as his first professional team. After spending only a few months with his new teammates, Julian has felt that immediate connection. “This is really a family. We’re a team, but we’re a family just as my mom and dad are to me,” smiles Julian. As an entirely new club in Austin, that family is providing a new opportunity for a soccer community that now has a hometown team to dream with and support. “As a team and as an organization, we’re giving kids actual dreams of playing professional soccer, something tangible that they can see. Now since I see the same kids coming to the games over and over again, they are really falling in love with the game of soccer and that’s great,” explains Sonny. “You don’t have to go far anymore because you
have an Austin team [now].” With fans cheering and banging pots and pans to create a loud atmosphere in the stadium, the support showed up in full force in the match against San Antonio. In addition to the victory, the support was rewarded again when the Bold scored four goals, and everyone in the crowd was given a free pretzel from Easy Tiger. Austin has a lot to cheer for in the Bold’s inaugural season. An impressive record of eight wins, seven losses, and five draws played in the Bold Stadium as of July 22 is just one reason to watch this new club blaze a trail on the Eastside.
Contact:
austinboldfc.com 9201 Circuit of the Americas Blvd. @austinboldfc {the tasty side of austin}
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21
O U R FAV E E V E N T S
Pick 9
FOR THE EASTSIDE
&
AUGUST SEPTEMBER Bat Fest
Festival & Parade
August 10, 11am Join the Boogie Wonderland to celebrate the Austin LGBTQ community at Pride Festival and Parade. With over 400,000 attendees predicted to attend this year, Austin Pride festivities are continuing the tradition. The parade is free while festival tickets start at $17 for general admission.
austinpride.org | 2101 Jesse E Segovia St.
Library Love Story Writing Workshop
August 24, 4pm-12am Catch the famous Mexican free-tail bats emerging from under the Congress Bridge at dusk at the 15th annual Bat Fest. The event includes 2 stages with live music, arts & crafts vendors, delicious food and drinks, fun kid’s activities, and a bat costume contest. roadwayevents.com/event/batfest/ | 100 South Congress Ave.
District Cultural Arts Fest
August 13, 6-8pm Libraries (and books) have a way of changing how people view the world around them. The Ruiz Branch of Austin Public Library wants to hear how literature has changed your life. This free creative writing workshop offers time, space, guidance, and inspiration to help craft a Library Love Story before submitting a piece for the chance to be read on KUT. 1600 Grove Blvd.
Austin Restaurant Weeks
August 15-Sept 2 Help the fight against hunger during Austin Restaurant Weeks. Eastside participants include Juniper, Contigo, and many more. A portion of the sale of each entree goes directly to the Central Texas Food Bank, which can turn each dollar into four meals for our neighbors.
August 31, 3-10pm Honor the rich legacy and cultural contributions of Central Texas’ black community with Six Square’s Cultural Arts Fest. This daytime market and music festival will include music from headliner Mumu Fresh, interactive activations, and food and drink from local businesses. Music festival tickets are $15 while tickets to both events are $75. sixsquare. org/dcaf/ | 900 Chicon St.
September 13-15 & 17, times vary Fill the weekend enjoying booths, workshops, and over 30 bands of the best of Blues, Jazz, and Gospel at the 7th annual Eastside Kings Festival. Listen to local musicians at a variety of venues around the Eastside during this three-day celebration. The event kicks off at Antone’s Friday night and wraps up at Justine’s on Tuesday. locations vary
Strut Your Mutt
September 14, 8-11am Show off your dog at Best Friends Animal Society’s annual fundraiser, Strut Your Mutt. The event raises money to save the lives of homeless pets. You and your pup, alongside hundreds of others, can participate in a walk that will benefit local animal welfare groups. Tickets are $20.
bestfriends.org | 6614 Blue Bluff Rd.
Back to School Swell
September 1, 2-6pm Hold onto summer for a little bit longer. Reminiscent of 1960’s Palm Springs pool parties, Summer Swell will open access to East Austin Hotel’s courtyard pool to locals and visiting guests for their Back to School celebration. Guests can enjoy delicious food specials, $5 appetizers, cocktails, music, and ice cream. eastaustinhotel.com | 1108 E. 6th St.
austinrestaurantweeks.org | multiple locations
22 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
Eastside Kings Festival
Crepe Paper Flower Making
September 28, 10am-1pm Learn how to create a simple crepe paper rose with Mélissa Peng, the founder of Camellias and Curls, presented by craftHER Market. Create the bloom and leaves, as well as various coloring and texture techniques. Tickets are $65 and include all materials except scissors. bossbabes.org | 916 Springdale Rd. #102, Bldg. 4
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WORDS BY ALISON BRYCE
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UP TO 20% OFF MEMBERSHIPS Club Pilates East Austin Plaza Saltillo Shopping Center | 1109 E. 5th Street (512) 878-3271 | eastaustin@clubpilates.com
MUELLER MARKETPLACE A go to source for making your way around the Mueller retail area TOY DOJO Whether you’re a child or still a child at heart, we want you to feel welcome at Toy Dojo! We’re a local, owner-run toy shop specializing in toys and collectibles from all across pop culture. We focus on bringing in some of the best toys from all over the world. From Dragon Ball to Transformers to Gundam and even superheroes like Iron Man and Batman, we have a variety of joy-inducing nostalgia for you to browse and purchase. If you’re in the Austin area, stop by our shop located in the Mueller neighborhood, just minutes north of Downtown Austin. If you’re not so close, check us out online at www.toydojo.com. We offer FREE shipping on all domestic orders of $150 or more. At Toy Dojo, we take toys seriously, but not too seriously! CONTACT toydojo.com 2036 Robert Browning Street (206) 569-5139
INO SCARF BOUTIQUE You are unique, so is your scarf. Every scarf is its own story, and the story is not completed until it finds its owner. The ino scarf elegantly flows from the past with ancient artwork laced into today's silk fabric for you to enjoy for years to come. The name, Ino, is inspired by Homer's poem The Odyssey. Ino, as sea goddess Leucothea, saves Odysseus from drowning at sea by offering him her enchanted scarf that kept him afloat as he swam to shore. Keep a scarf handy; you might need to save the moment. CONTACT info@inocollection.com inocollection.com 4541 Ruiz Street (512) 937-3466
HOURS Monday-Friday 11am-7pm Saturday 10am-6pm
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What is coffee without brunch? The answer is not much. To prove it, Halcyon devised a menu where you can taste test your way to your perfect pairing of food and coffee, and did we mention mimosas and cocktails? With options like country style Benedict, gourmet salads, and banana Nutella waffles, you’re going to have to come back to try all the combinations. And you can, anytime. Halcyon is a coffeehouse by day and a lounge by night, because if we’re being honest, there’s no wrong time to enjoy a solid brunch pairing.
Known for its “farm to pizza” ethos, there are so many more tasty options at Stella Public House than just pizza. With a seasonal menu featuring wood-fired skillet entrées like roasted rib-eye and delectable appetizers like warmed beets and goat cheese or sweet potato gnocchi, the pub’s relationship with local growers, ranchers and purveyors now has even more chance to shine. Plus, there is a beer list with 30 rotating taps of craft beer and an approachable, internationally-curated wine list.
Are you ready to start a conversation within the community? Whether you’re looking to reach Mueller, the surrounding neighborhoods, or Central & East Austin, the EASTside Magazine team engages 100,000 active, educated, and involved readers who have discretionary income and take action based on what they read in our publication because we fit their lifestyle. As a part of the community, you can benefit from one of the most sought-after stomping grounds. Let people know about your business!
CONTACT halcyoncoffeebar.com 1905 Aldrich Street, #110 (512) 400-0445
CONTACT stellapublichouse.com 1905 Aldrich Street, #110 (512) 400-0474
CONTACT advertise@eastsideatx.com (512) 331-0406
First, We Feast WORDS BY JESSI DEVENYNS PHOTOS BY SHELBY BELLA
Austin’s international restaurants add a little spice to life. As long as people have been on this earth, eating has been a necessity. Although nourishment started out as scraps of meat and gathered plants, it quickly evolved into particular dishes that reflected the environment of those who were cooking and the cultures that were built around the table. From economically stretching meat rations through the week to religious fasts that dictate what, how, and when to eat, what constitutes food is as varied as the world is wide. In East Austin, the cuisines of all 195 countries may not be represented, but there is still an ample menu to choose from for those who are looking to expand their horizons through their palate.
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS PROVIDED BY INKED FINGERS, ALEX MAXWELL, & JODY HORTON
Il Brutto 1601 E 6th St. • ilbruttoaustin.com Although the name means “the ugly,” the dishes at Il Brutto are anything but. Composed in a high Italian style, the plates take center stage on the table in operatic fashion, featuring wood-fired pizzas, hand stretched cheese and a medley of bright flavors to contrast against the restaurant’s classy dark ambiance. Stop by for happy hour on weekdays from 5-7pm for half off drinks or on Mondays for a class to learn how to make Limoncello, the complimentary house beverage. Jazz lovers can enjoy some chill melodies while sipping wine on Thursdays from 5:30-7:30.
Aster’s Ethiopian Restaurant 2804 N I-35 Frontage Rd. • (512) 469-5966 “Everywhere you go, Ethiopian food is pretty much the same,” Aster’s son Kassaye Kassaye begins as he rotates through the color wheel of wats atop a round of sourdough injera. Despite the seemingly wide variety of options, Kassaye explains that the base ingredients are standard across the country. Ethiopia is home to a culture that is heavily influenced by orthodox Christianity, which promotes vegan diets and fasting. As a result, vegetables are heavily featured in the country’s cuisine. “It’s not looked
28 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
at as a secondary type of food,” Kassaye shares as he notes that vegan food is not a replacement for meat so much as it is a focus on the flavorful bounty of vegetables themselves. “It’s not like we’re trying to make brisket out of cabbage and spice it to taste like meat. This is not supposed to taste like meat. This tastes like what it is.” And what “it” is depends on where one dines. Ethiopian food is a marker of a place and time. It may all be based on a similar shopping list, but each chef adds their own twist of personality. At Aster’s, that twist is a combination of a woman from central Ethiopia, a man from the eastern edge of the country, and a son who was raised in Austin. And the resulting dish may just be that much more delicious for it.
Saperlipopette 75 Rainey St. • saperlipopette-atx.com With an approximate translation of “good, golly, gosh!” Saperlipopette brings a lot of old-school charm to its traditional recipes. With standards like La Complète, which is a fail proof combination of ham, egg, and cheese, and La Caramel that is smothered in homemade salted caramel, owner Jean-Baptiste Thouénon brings France’s famous cuisine contributions to Texas. Every day of the week, Jean-Baptiste can be found in his mobile creperie sporting a beret and a navy and white striped shirt while he grills thin sheets of batter into crepe-y
wrappers that will enfold simple, yet mouthwatering, ingredients. With both crepes and galettes (a savory crepe made from buckwheat flour) on the menu, the selection at Saperlipopette may be small, but it is only because Jean-Baptiste makes every crepe himself. He takes care to cook his tomatoes in herbs de Provence and melt his own sugar down into a silky caramel, and the time-intensive labor pays off. Jean-Baptiste says that he gets a lot of first time crepe samplers passing by who are about as familiar with a crepe as he was with a breakfast taco when he arrived from Brittany two years ago. He says with a wry smile, “Most of the time, they’re not disappointed.”
{the tasty side of austin}
Thai Kruefha 1106 E 11th St. An under-the-radar trailer that features Thai staples like pad Thai, green curry, and basil fried rice spotlights the characteristic sweet and spicy flavor of Thai food. Just make sure to announce your level of spice tolerance when you arrive so that you aren’t surprised by a bombshell.
Oseyo 1628 E Cesar Chavez St. • oseyoaustin.com This new Korean restaurant is familyfriendly for a reason. Oseyo in Korean means “please come over,” and everyone is welcome. Opened by a KoreanAmerican chef, the menu features classic Korean dishes that are familiar at both the holiday table and street vendors. Expect favorites like Bibimbap, Japchae, and, of course, soju.
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Old Thousand 1000 E 11th St., Ste. 150 • (737) 222-6637 oldthousandatx.com The first clue that Old Thousand is serving up reimagined Chinese food should be the panda on the wall wearing a crown and chain. The second clue should be the menu. “We try to do our best to touch on aspects of traditional Chinese food but also ride that line of kitschy,” remarks Rhys Davis, the sous chef at Old Thousand. Brisket fried rice and Cubano egg rolls make an appearance alongside traditional Chinese dim sum options like Gai Lan, chilled Chinese broccoli in vegetarian oyster sauce, and Lo Bak Go, root vegetable cakes with Chinese sausage and shrimp. Although the mix is heady, it fits right into the atmosphere of clattering carts and Austintatious décor that Rhys explains is designed to mirror the restaurant’s concept which he describes as an attempt to create relatable dishes in a Chinese wrapper. For Rhys, playing with tradition is particularly rewarding when cooking Chinese food because “it’s salty, sweet, spicy, fermented and just has so many layers to it.” By parsing these layers apart, he is able to work with Executive Chef Jeff Brown to create an unforgettably unique menu that is complimented by a clear-eyed cocktail program. With so many components and flavors composing the menu, it didn’t just blossom from one person’s imagination. Old Thousand is a collaborative effort. “There’s not one or two or three people who can take credit for what this is and what we are because there’s little bits of everybody who have been sprinkled in.”
Nasha
Xian Sushi and Noodle
1614 E 7th St. • nashaindia.com This Indian Tex-Mex fusion eatery brings together Mumbai and margaritas under one colorful roof. Cravable combinations include chicken tandoori tacos and verde masala curry. Feel free to wash it down with a curried margarita at their late night happy hour on Monday through Wednesday from 10-11:30pm.
1801 E 51st St., Bldg. C 370 xianfresh.com Translating to “fresh” in Mandarin, this Mueller establishment serves up hand-pulled noodles that are theatrically sculpted for diners who get to select their noodle thickness when ordering. Of course, they aren’t just eye candy but also taste scrumptious in Dan Dan chili-oil sauce, chicken teriyaki, or shoyu ramen broth.
Casa Colombia 2409 E 7th St. • Casa-colombia.com A longtime Austin destination for Colombian food, Casa Colombia has consistently served up a menu that will make carnivores across the city salivate. From bandeja paisa to bistec criollo, this meaty menu is complimented by sweet plantains, rice and beans, and a tropical fruit juice that cuts through the melding flavors with a pleasantly welcome shock of acidity.
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Kebabalicious 1311 E 7th St. • kebabalicious.com Like the name implies, these Turkish-style döner kebabs are delicious. Inspired by European-style kebabs, these overflowing wraps are an upgrade to the late-night staple with Texas grass-fed lamb and local vegetables being used to create a mouth watering, filling meal every time.
Scholz Garten 1607 San Jacinto Blvd. • scholzgarten.com The first iteration of the bar with the name Scholz attached to it opened in 1866. Through the centuries, the biergarten has hosted all walks of life, serving as a gathering place for those looking to enjoy a pretzel, some wurst, spätzle or an ice cold German beer under the hot Texas sun. This summer, sip on their Ginger Cherry Limeade and make sure not to miss their Summer Solstice Celebration, which will be happening in September.
Poke Me Long Time poke-me-long-time.business.site
Beto’s Mexican Restaurant 3518 E 7th St. • betosaustin.com Although aptly named, the presidential candidate from El Paso has nothing to do with this small Austin restaurant chain. Despite the eatery flying under the radar since opening their first restaurant in 2010, it hasn’t stopped owners Lupita and Beto from opening 3 additional establishments around town. With tacos that feature ingredients like tripa, lengua, and nopalitos as well as daily specials, Beto’s dishes are a flavorful way to satisfy even the hungriest customers. Though his food is tasty, guests are always surprised to learn that Beto didn’t always like cooking. Still, he’s made up for lost time by serving up huge plates of what Austin residents fondly refer to as comfort food and everyone else calls TexMex. Beto’s is a place for those looking for good portions at good prices served by good people.
The suggestively named Hawaiianfusion poke bowls add flair to a dish that’s already fun to eat. Take a seat on palapa covered benches and drift into a Polynesian state of mind as guests enjoy combinations of tuna, salmon, tofu, rice, fresh fruit, sauces and sliced avocado.
Lima Criolla 6406 N I-35 Frontage Rd., Ste. 1550 limacriolla.com Peruvian food is as visually vibrant as it is flavorful. Known for Latin ingredients that are influenced by the tutorage of Japanese cuisine, expect acidic accents like raw fish dishes to familiar flavors like braised pork and potatoes.
Russian House 307 E 5th St. • (512) 428-5442 russianhouseofaustin.com “In the Soviet Union, they tried not to make something specific to a place. Everything is common,” explains assistant manager David Rand. Russian House specializes in the dishes from this period with chicken tabaka, borsch, sauerkraut, and salad olivier making appearances on the menu. David admits that although “old food isn’t always cool,” it is an integral part of the history of the ex-Soviet countries, and a delicious one at that. With its fuchsia broth and focus on beets, borsch is an instantly recognizable dish from the region, but David says no two are made the same. At Russian House, the soup features tomatoes and sliced beets married in a beef broth. It is also served with beef pirozhki. Of course, the pirozhki can sop up the soup, but it is also a perfect vehicle with which to sample Russia’s most famous condiment: sour cream. “Sour cream is a very, very important part of Russian cuisine,” explains David who lists a myriad of uses including a thickener for borsch and an optimal spread for bread with a sprinkle of sugar. It is not, however, necessary on the chicken tabaka. That dish is an artistically layered presentation of bright fruits and vegetables surrounding a whole chicken pan fried in its own juices. Marinated in white wine and tomato sauce, it comes with what David calls a “Russian salsa,” which is a spicy tomato-based condiment that pairs perfectly with the sweetness of the white wine-marinated poultry. Naturally, everything at the Russian House is washed down with vodka. From the free shot that arrives with your appetizer to the dozens of house made infusions that line the shelves, the perfect pairing is guaranteed for every dish.
Tso 3909 N I-35., Ste. E-5 • tsodelivery.com No tips. No delivery fee. All good. That’s the motto of Tso, which is a delivery and takeout only establishment that serves up fresh and fast meals like Drunken Beef Noodles and Blue Crab Rangoons—all of which were dreamt up by the restaurant’s Chinese owners.
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888 Pan Asian Restaurant 2400 E Oltorf St., Ste. 1 • (512) 448-4722 With warm chatter, clanging dishes, and a steaming lunchtime buffet, the interior of 888 elicits echoes of cantinas and chow halls. However, the food is anything but every day; a better description would be celebratory. From aromatic Thai and Vietnamese soups to tender grilled lamb in a creamy coconut sauce, 888 masters the flavors of Southeast Asia and presents them in an irresistible manner. The seafood pho is a pleasant way to find oneself tongue-tied in the search to identify where the notes of anise and ginger fit into the culinary melody. The spring rolls are so fresh and translucent that it’s almost a shame to bite through the rice paper wrapper and discover an achingly fresh cucumber and succulent shrimp. In keeping to its roots, the food at 888 is a swirl of tangy and tropical flavors invigorated by a kick of spice. From a subtle tingle to an eye-watering aroma, it’s a celebration for the senses and one that should not be passed up just because there is no particular occasion to celebrate.
34 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
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“Our volunteers deliver 90% of the meals that we [make], and that’s about 2,700 meals every day.” p.38
Go+ do
August +Sept 2019
38 go&do THE IMPACT MEALS ON WHEELS HAS ON THE COMMUNITY IS GREATER THAN FOOD.
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DISCOVER THE BEST UNDER-THE-RADAR HIDDEN GEMS AROUND TOWN
the higher cost of assisted living while still maintaining their dignity.
eastside | go&do
The Meals on Wheels Headquarters is not just the main office for all operations but functions as the distribution center for all of Central Texas. Paid kitchen staff begin their day at 2 o’clock in the morning preparing a nutritional meal to serve to hundreds of Central Texans each day. At 11am, volunteers arrive to begin their routes throughout town to deliver meals, to perform well-checks, and to simply just remind people that they are not forgotten. ”Our volunteers deliver 90% of the meals that we do, and that’s about 2,700 meals every day,” Rosenfeld states proudly. Beyond the main distribution center, several satellite distribution sites work to reach outside of East Austin to Travis and Williamson counties.
Freedom at Home Not Forgotten
WORDS BY MALLORY LEHENBAUER PHOTOS BY ERIC MORALES
Meals on Wheels is more than just hot meals a few times a week. It’s supporting community, freedom, and stability everyday to East Austin’s elderly and disabled residents.
M
eals on Wheels opened in 1972 with eight volunteers serving 29 seniors three times a week. Many changes have occurred over the last 47 years, but the mission is still the same: to provide one hot nourishing meal per day, both in a congregate setting and to their homebound clients. Today their headquarters in East Austin has 7,500 volunteers providing meals, services, and support to more than 5,000 central Texas clients every year. As Thad Rosenfeld, Vice President of Communications, puts it, “It’s hard to argue with what we do here. We help older adults and people with disabilities maintain their independence and stay a part of the community. That doesn’t just serve them; it also serves the community because these are our elders.” This means the thousands of people that Meals on Wheels serves are able to stay in their homes, avoiding 38 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
“[We take] a holistic approach to keeping older adults and people with disabilities living independently in their own home,” Rosenfeld elaborates. “There’s a reason why our headquarters is in East Austin, and we have been around since 1972. Historically, the vast majority of people who we served lived in East Austin, and that has been the case until recently.” With the current changes to the city, some residents have left and moved to different parts of town. But the residents who remain, Rosenfeld believes, are the heartbeat to the community. “These are the folks who help make Austin what it is today, and to have them in our neighborhoods, it brings diversity, and it brings this knowledge that they have—something we don’t have—because they’ve been around longer,” Rosenfeld smiles. “We have several older clients who are living in the home they were born. It’s nice to be able to help them stay in these homes in what, I think, is the prettiest part
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of Austin.” Beyond meals, the home repair program along with other services helps keep these residents living exactly where they choose to live. Rosenfeld says the home repair service has made the biggest impact on the homes in East Austin. Meals on Wheels acts as a general contractor and sends paid staff to repair and maintain homes for those unable to do so themselves. “We do more than 3 million dollars in home repair a year,” Rosenfeld explains. “The home repair program helps maintain the upkeep of homes. Many [of those serviced] need foundation or roof work. The people we serve are the collective memory of East Austin. They know its history.” Rosenfeld not only works in Communications at Meals on Wheels but also volunteers. “What I love about being a Meals on Wheels volunteer, in addition to working here, is that it’s a volunteer opportunity where the rubber meets the road,” he extols. “You are actually where that act of kindness is occurring. You are literally face-to-face with the person you are helping. It’s just that one hour, visiting folks, just a few minutes of time delivering a hot meal, a warm smile and a reminder to them that they have not been forgotten. I don’t know any place else where you can have that kind of impact in just one hour a week.”
Get Involved! If you are interested in volunteering or donating, visit mealsonwheelscentraltexas.org and click on “Get Involved.”
Contact:
(512) 689-3177 3227 E 5th Street
mealsonwheelscentraltexas.org @mealsonwheelscentraltexas
DOWNTOWN LOCATIONS: (512) 981-MODS 1601 E CESAR CHAVEZ ST., STE. 106 (512) 905-8472 513 E 6TH ST.
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eastside | go
range from clothing to jewelry to home goods. Pop in only to be leaving with design inspiration and possibly even a treasure or two. 1107 E 11th St. | littlelovecraft.com
3
Techo Mezcaleria
Longtime Manor Road establishment, Mi Madre’s and neighboring School House Pub are both home to Techo Mezcaleria, a rooftop mezcal bar. The quaint, dimly-lit bar founded by Christina and Edgar Torres features a small indoor area and a patio. However, the drinks that can be found at this intimate space really steal the show. Explore the different mezcal options offered by sipping a flight or enjoying a craft cocktail. 2201 Manor Rd.
6
4
Escape to a past life by visiting J. Lorraine Ghost Town in Manor. About 20 miles from Austin, the recreated western town is open to the public and offers a glimpse into the world of cowboys and outlaws. There’s no shortage of things to do here. Catch a live music show, enjoy the “best hamburgers in town,” or take a party to the next level by renting out the venue. 14219 Littig Rd. | ghosttownaustin.com
best Hidden Gems Explore Some of Austin’s Top Secret Spots
WORDS BY SAM LAURON PHOTO BY TECHO MEZCALERIA
With Austin’s continued growth, it’s increasingly more difficult to come by a local hangout that’s not widely known to the rest of the population. But despite the growing popularity of the city, a handful of places have still remained under the radar by either being tucked away, nestled into neighborhoods, or located just outside the city center.
1
Secret Beach
Austin may be a landlocked city, but it’s closer to a beach than one would think. Nestled in the Roy G. Guerrero Park, Secret Beach is just a short walk away from the main park area. To get there, start at the Metropolis Youth Center and walk downhill on the nearby trail for about 5-10 minutes until stumbling upon the secluded beach-like area. After the adventurous trek, the sight of water and surrounding sand will be a refreshing treat to those looking for some beach
40 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
J. Lorraine Ghost Town
fun close to home. Keep in mind that it’s illegal to swim here, but there’s plenty of room to splash around, play in the sand, and skip rocks in the Colorado River. 400 Grove Blvd.
2
Lovecraft
Tucked away in a two-story house on bustling East 11th Street, Lovecraft is a destination for lovers of design and vintage. The boutique offers a curated selection of goods from independent designers and vintage pieces that
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5
Museum of Natural & Artificial Ephemerata
Nestled just off East MLK Boulevard sits a home that, on the outside, appears to be unlike its neighbors. But the inside houses Marilyn Monroe’s last cigarette, an electromagnetic frequency detector, and a bottle of red rain. These unusual findings, and many more, are part of the Museum of Natural & Artificial Ephemerata, a family-run, in-home museum. The unique organization is dedicated to showcasing collections of oddities and rare artifacts and sharing the stories behind them. Curious minds can make an appointment or visit on a Saturday when tours are typically held. 1808 Singleton Ave. | mnae.org
6
Indra’s Awarehouse
A place to perform, gather, and practice art, Indra’s Awarehouse is, first and foremost, a community space. Founded by painter, Randi Southard, the warehouse is an open and welcoming venue meant for art exploration. Visitors can take aerial lessons, participate in dance parties, practice yoga, or even rent out the space for an event. 7904 FM 969, #6104 | indras.house
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Brimming with history and vibrant culture, there’s plenty to explore in Cusco, Peru. p.46
Home+ away
August +Sept 2019
44 home GET A GLIMPSE
INSIDE A CREATIVE COUPLE’S 560 SQUARE FOOT TINY HOME THAT SITS ON TWELVE ACRES
46 away
PACK YOUR BAGS, GRAB YOUR PASSPORT, AND TAKE A TRIP TO CUSCO, PERU
eastside | home
A
Big Ideas, Small Spaces WORDS BY JESSI DEVENYNS PHOTOS BY JOSEPH PUTERBAUGH
s a designer and cinematographer duo, Kim Lewis and Joey Puterbaugh knew that what’s inside a home is far more inspirational than the actual square footage. Kim, who started designing tiny homes for Tiny House Nation after spending six years as the lead designer behind Extreme Makeover: Home Edition, was intimately familiar with how to optimize the homey feeling even in the smallest of spaces.
Just because this is Texas doesn’t always mean that everything is bigger. To prove that the beloved state motto is not universally applicable, one couple decided to live the Lone Star State lifestyle within 560 square feet.
“The idea of downsizing was really, really—and still is—enticing to us both,” explains Kim who maintains that living small does not mean living less. In fact, the couple is perched on twelve acres of
Designer couple raises a family in a tiny home.
44 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
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Hill Country land that Kim says is more or less their living room. “We both love being outdoors so the tiny home kind of forces you to live and be at one with nature, daddy longlegs and all,” she giggles. Living with nature seems to be an omnipresent aspect of living in a tiny home. Although the couple’s home is just over 500 square feet and is situated at a right angle to allow two sets of sliding glass doors to open up onto an expansive deck, life in such a small space can sometimes get crowded. Kim, who claims that they love to entertain, remembers hosting 15 people at Thanksgiving, eight of
which spent the night. “You have to be okay with close quarters,” she shrugs. “Either that, or guests are welcome to pitch a tent.” The couple have been known to do so themselves and offer up their bed to visitors. Still, having to occasionally play Tetris with company is worth it. Kim shares that she and Joey will have their home paid off in just over two years, which she describes as a freeing idea for someone who balks at the notion of being “locked into a home.” In their tiny space, she demonstrates, the walls are not limiting but liberating. Full of texture and color, the interior of the home is a patchwork quilt of objects; each of which, Kim says, has a story. In concert, those individual stories create a harmonious aesthetic and also serve as a sort of scrapbook for the couple’s life. “When you look around the tiny house, everything is helping to tell the story of who we are,” Kim explains.
Did You Know? The tiny home is for sale to a buyer who has land that is permitted to accommodate a tiny home residence and deck.
That story is still being written. The next chapter, however, will involve the couple moving out of their home in search of larger quarters as their family grows to accommodate a second child. Kim shares that she oscillates between staying in the tiny home and increasing the family’s floor plan. However, she says that with two babies, “living small” has a new definition.
Contact:
Kim Lewis Designs 2301 E Cesar Chavez St. kimlewisdesigns.com {the tasty side of austin}
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eastside | away
indigenous treasures preserved at the Museo Inca and the Museo de Arte Pre-Colombino.
A Weekend in
Cusco
An Incan Escape WORDS & PHOTOS BY DALTON GAUDIN
A land where one could spend a hundred lifetimes exploring, Peru is a place of dreams and lore. Since it’s impossible to see it all, exploring Cusco and the surrounding Sacred Valley will fill any long weekend adventure.
Friday Around the Plaza de Las Armas, the central square, flame marks are still visible on walls. It’s evidence of a last-ditch effort
by the Inca King Atahualpa to save his empire from Spanish conquest: burning Cusco to the ground with flaming arrows. History abounds, and visitors can find many pre-colonial
if you go... Be ready for an adventure! As a guest to the area, greet everyone with a smile and an open heart. Knowing Spanish will also come in handy. Be sure to tip well. Don’t forget to bring a camera – it’s hard to capture a bad picture. 46 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
But this is not just a city of shadows and relics. It is a vibrant place. San Blas is a lovely bohemian neighborhood with vendors, friendly restaurants and an anchoring fountain. Walk down Calle Carmen Alto, visit with the locals, and enjoy the sunset while dining on Andean-cheese crêpes at La B’om.
Saturday Some say the walls
Getting Around: This city
must be explored on foot. That being said, taxis are everywhere. They are cheap – ranging from 5 to 10 soles depending on destination.
Events: June is festival month in Cusco. Monday, June 24 is Inti Raymi, a festival to the sun god, and the Saqsaywaman
of Saqsaywaman are older than the Inca. Some say giants moved the stones, or that the ancestors sang to them to make them walk. Either way, the stones are megalithic, and the view from this hilltop fortress is unbeatable. Only here can one truly admire Cusco’s sprawling beauty. Spend the afternoon at the ruins of Tambomachay and Puka Pukara. By early evening wander the streets around the city center. There are labyrinths of nooks and crannies: bars, bookstores, spas, cafes, potters, and magical bo-
tanicals. Hidden plazas and mercantiles abound. Be friendly and kind, and secret doors will open all around. The sunset’s blue and orange wane is perfect, and it glows with golden sodium at night. Grab dinner at Inka Grill. It has a Peruvian version of the tamale (humita) that defies explanation.
Sunday Hire a guide with a large car. Rise before the sun and drive northwest to Chin-
puts on a giant performance at the park. Todos Santos (All Saints Day) is November 1 and Dia de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is November 2, with candlelight vigils at the cemeteries. These are big celebrations for the locals, and if visiting during this time, all are invited to participate.
Forecast: Being on the oth-
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chero. Visit el Balcón del Inka textile center to learn about the symbology and fabrication of the local garb. Have lunch in Ollantaytambo and visit the ruins. Ancient terraces still line the walls, and Inca grain houses sit undisturbed. Be sure to see the Salineras salt mines and just admire the wondrous landscape.
er side of the equator, May through October are mostly cold and dry, November through April are the warmer months. Regardless the season, always be ready for rain!
Who to follow:
@DaltonGaudin onsiteexpeditions.org destinostourscusco.com
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Sip+ taste “This is a familyrun business, from front to back.” p.50
August +Sept 2019 50 taste
feature
GUESTS FEEL RIGHT AT HOME WITH THE SOUTHERN FLAVORS FOUND AT JACOBY’S.
52 taste
expert
DISCOVER THE TASTE OF BULGARIAN CUISINE WITH THIS SIMPLE BAKED GOOD RECIPE
54 dining guide A CURATED GUIDE ON WHERE TO EAT IN EAST AUSTIN
58 sip
feature
AN INVENTIVE COCKTAIL MENU AWAITS AT NEW KOREAN RESTAURANT, OSEYO
eastside | taste
Down-Home on the Ranch
Southern comfort meals rooted in family. WORDS BY SAM LAURON PHOTOS BY ASHLEY HAGUEWOOD
Nestled in a former electrical supply building on East Cesar Chavez, Jacoby’s has been serving elevated ranch-to-table dishes from the heart of East Austin for the past five years.
I
t might be easy to overlook Jacoby’s if it weren’t for their vintage neon sign hanging above the door. Kris Swift, Creative Director of Jacoby Restaurant Group, says the sign came from a building in the town square of Melvin, Texas, the hometown of his husband and business partner, Adam Jacoby. “We negotiated getting that sign,” he recalls. “We actually traded some wheat and other commodities for the sign with the owner of the building, and we put new neon over it.” While the street-facing exterior may be industrial, stepping onto the property immediately feels like being welcomed onto a rustic Texas ranch. From the quaint mercantile that features local goods to the pa-
50 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
tio overlooking the Colorado River, the entire space comes together to form a quintessential Southern experience. Vintage details like original brick from Melvin’s town square and reclaimed pipe from the family ranch reaffirm the authentic down-home atmosphere. Adam and Kris founded Jacoby’s Restaurant and Mercantile in 2014 as an extension of his family’s ranch and cafe in Melvin. The two wanted to bring the comfort of Southern-style cooking and the quality of ranchraised beef to Central Texas and put their own Austin twist on it. The ranch-to-table menu consists of classic dishes like cheeseburgers and fries or mac and cheese as well as lighter plates like deviled eggs and a Texas citrus salad.
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Native Knowledge The Jacoby Restaurant Group also owns and operates nearby Grizzelda’s. Like Jacoby’s, the restaurant that originally owned the space was family-owned. When the opportunity to take over the building presented itself, Kris and Adam couldn’t turn it down. “Adam and I were like, ‘absolutely!’” Kris enthuses. “We’re really committed to the neighborhood.”
One thing that sets Jacoby’s apart from others, however, is their proprietary beef. All of the proteins in the restaurant are pasture-raised, hormone-free, all-natural and come straight from the Jacoby family ranch. “Adam’s brothers are literally the ones raising the cattle on the Jacoby ranch in West Texas,” Kris states. One of Jacoby’s signature dishes, Chicken Fried Steak, encompasses everything the restaurant strives to bring to the table. The generous cut of meat is covered with a layer of light and crispy breading and served with rich mashed potatoes and black pepper gravy. The side of arugula salad adds a fresh component to balance out the plate and complete the meal. While the menu may be protein-focused, several gluten-free, vegan, or dairy-free options, like the Farm Vegetable Plate, are available. With a medley of fresh seasonal vegetables with a lemon vinaigrette, the plate is a colorful
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addition to the Southern-style menu. Jacoby’s adapted lighter dishes like this one over time to better accommodate their guests. “We try to have an open dialogue with our guests [and] stay true to our roots while growing with the community,” Kris adds with a warm smile. This drive to serve the community stems from the couple’s loyalty to the city and commitment to the neighborhood. Kris and Adam have lived in East Austin since 1996; so for them, Jacoby’s is an extension of their home and guests are treated like family. “This is a family-run business, from back to front,” says Kris. “And if we can convey that sense of family to our guests and make them feel comfortable, then I think we’ve succeeded in giving them an experience.”
Contact:
(512) 366-5808 3235 E Cesar Chavez St. jacobysaustin.com eastsideatx.com
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eastside | taste expert
WORDS BY JUSTIN BUTTS RECIPE BY KAYLA BUTTS PHOTOS BY RACHEL BENAVIDES
No Roads to Greece
Bulgarian Banitsa The idea was to drive south into Greece through the Rhodope Mountains. Alexander traveled these mountains on horseback, but I took a yellow Volga.
T
he matron of the guest house in Sofia rented me the Volga, a relic of Soviet automobile manufacturing, for twenty Euros per day, cash, and no contract. She said if it broke down to abandon it, but she would keep my hundred Euro deposit. I drove south through Philippopolis, founded by Philip the One-Eyed, father of Alexander the Great. I passed the Gypsy quarter unscathed because it was five in the morning, and the banditi were sleeping. I then traveled down through Smolyan and Koshnitsa. On the map, I could not find any roads cutting south through the mountains. I stopped at pubs in some of the sullen villages along the road for help with directions. The architecture was a mix of abandoned Cold War mining factories, squat two-level shops, and a few stone Orthodox churches that had somehow survived the two World Wars. In the smoky pubs, old men in coats sitting at the booths or tables would lean over my map as I traced my finger down to the Greek coast on the Aegean Sea, due south, straight through the Rhodopes. The Bulgarian language is written in Cyrillic. Translating a single place name was a chore, much less following the bony fingers and lit cigarettes of these old men as they argued with each other in their guttural language and turned the map every which way. No one in those mountains spoke English. The answer always came back the same. A wave of the hand, no. Tapping the map, no. No roads to Greece.
Deeper into the mountains, the road narrowed into switchbacks along perilous ledges, some of them sheer drops of 600 feet straight down, but there were no views
because of the mist. Finally, the road ended at a village below a peak shrouded in clouds. Everything was covered in snow; the post office, a few small shops, and a beautiful stone inn, maybe 200 years old. Inside the inn, the grand room had a low ceiling with a Franklin stove at one end and a few small tables with tiny wooden chairs. A man and a woman sat across from each other reading at one of the tables and looked up at me when I came in. I showed them the map. They smiled and shook their heads. The gentleman stood up and pantomimed saddling a horse and pointed out the window to the snowy pass and pretended to ride. They both laughed, and the woman motioned him to sit down. Alexander conquered the world, but I guess he couldn’t get a road through those mountains. The woman went to the kitchen and brought back a plate of banitsa, a sort of egg and cheese phyllo pastry, and hot black coffee. I ate the banitsa at the table by the window while the man and woman sat behind me in silence. Kayla, with her gift for crafting recipes, recreated this dish from my description and many loving experiments. She has somehow, impossibly, made this banitsa even better than I remember it. This is the magic of really good food. One bite and I am back in that stone inn on a cold January day with the fire crackling in the Franklin stove, watching through the window as the snow falls on that yellow Volga. Then, the snow really comes down, and the scene fades to white. Except, this time, it’s better because then I was alone, and now Kayla is beside me, and we can go anywhere.
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Bulgarian Banitsa Makes: 8 servings Prep time: 25 minutes Cook time: 40 minutes Ingredients: 1 (8 oz.) roll of frozen phyllo dough, thawed in the refrigerator 8 T. unsalted butter, plus 2 T. to brush on crust Filling: 1 c. full-fat Bulgarian yogurt 1/2 t. baking soda 5 eggs, plus 1 more to brush on crust 8 oz. feta, broken into small pieces 1 c. frozen spinach, thawed, with excess moisture removed 1/2 c. sun-ripened tomatoes, packed 1/2 t. salt 1/4 t. pepper Optional topping: 1/2 tsp each white and black sesame seeds Directions: Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease a 9x9” casserole dish. Melt 10 tablespoons of butter, setting aside 2 tablespoons for later. In a large bowl, mix filling ingredients together. Pull off a single sheet of phyllo and place it flat on a lightly floured surface. Brush melted butter in a thin layer over the entire surface of phyllo. Add another sheet of phyllo and repeat. Repeat again, until you have a stack three phyllo sheets thick. On the third sheet, add a thin layer of filling covering the entire sheet. Starting on a long side, roll the phyllo into a Swiss roll and place into greased dish. Repeat these steps, placing the rolls end to end in a concentric circle, until no filling or phyllo sheets remain. In a small bowl, beat together one egg and reserved butter. Brush egg mixture onto the top of the banitsa and sprinkle on sesame seeds, as desired. Bake for 40 minutes. Serve warm with a side of Bulgarian yogurt. eastsideatx.com
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O U R FAV E R E S TA U R A N T S
Pick 20
FOR THE EASTSIDE
eastside dining guide Hummus Amongus
Eden East
Under the wizened oak trees of a 4-acre farm is an unmarked trailer whose plain façade belies hyper-seasonal, farm-totable dishes. Whether it’s a farm-fresh breakfast on market days or a sit-down prix fixe dinner under the stars, Eden East reinvents the idea of eating local. Be sure to visit during their a-la-carte nights on Thursday evenings. 755 Springdale Rd. | edeneastaustin.com
Arriving via a twisted trajectory through Israel, Spain, and NYC, Berty Richter landed with an inkling that Austinites needed real hummus in their lives. With Turkish and Israeli roots, his fresh-toorder hummus is bold and daring with just the right amount of spice. 1906 E Cesar Chavez St.
Artessano
La Fruta Feliz
A happy place where breakfast is served all day. Of course, you can also get lunch, but why would you when you can have chilaquiles, huevos rancheros, and authentic breakfast tacos at 8PM? 3124 Manor Rd.
54 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
In an out-of-the-way shopping center is one of the freshest Asian food options around. Sip on one of their fine teas as you build your lunch – Nancy’s operates on a build your own bowl ethos. With no red meat or pork on the menu, it’s the perfect option for a lunch that is light but filling. 6448 Hwy. 290 E. #A100 | nancysskygarden.com
The fresh tropical fruit juice and the arepas are why you need to visit Artessano. As a food trailer specializing in Colombian food, expect dance music and lots of friendly conversation when you visit. 1211 E 6th St.
S-H Donuts
Flyrite Chicken
Disrupting the fast food industry one sandwich at a time, Flyrite is a drive-thru with all-natural, antibiotic-free chicken as well as gluten-free and vegetarian options. 2129 E 7th St. | flyritechicken.com
Nancy’s Sky Garden
Hillside Farmacy
Something about Hillside Farmacy’s happy hour oysters, weekend brunches, and dinner cocktails just make you feel better. Perhaps that's due to its historical location in the lovingly renovated 1950s Hillside Drugstore. Or perhaps it’s because the fresh, carefully selected seasonal food that comes from local farms and onto your plate is just good medicine. 1209 E 11th St. | hillsidefarmacy.com
El Sunzal
El Sunzal is a quintessential hole-in-thewall that makes up for its bare-bones appearance with its exceptional El Salvadorian fare. Make sure to sample the fried yucca, seafood soup, and the pupusas. 642 Calles St.
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This unassuming store-front houses an outstanding array of donuts, kolaches, and breakfast croissants. Even if the food wasn’t enough, owners Socea and Sarorn make the trip to S-H worth it every time. 5313 Manor Rd.
Kinda Tropical
Step into a space where food and drink should always be a pleasure. Watch an old western at the bar while sipping on colorful drinks and munching on fresh cabana food. Or stop in to pick up a few pantry staples on your way home. 3501 E 7th St. | kindatropical.com
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Dinner Service
Thursday, Friday & Saturday 6-10pm
Brunch + Farmstand Wednesday & Saturday 9am-1pm
Host your next event at Eden East. Dinner | Breakfast | Catering | Events
Events + Catering: amy@edeneastaustin.com Reservations: misti@edeneastaustin.com 512.428.6500 | edeneastaustin.com 755 Springdale Road, 3 miles east of downtown
eastside | dining guide
Poké Me Long Time
Austin Daily Press
Austin Daily Press has spent the last five years honing their craft, and it shows! The ADP team, led by Chef Reed Faitak and co-owners Dustin Knef and Chase Rushing, have found their voice through creating incredibly flavorful experiences sandwiched between locally baked telera. 1900 E MLK Jr. Blvd. | 4620 E Cesar Chavez St. austindailypress.com
Expect to find vibrant dishes that match the food truck’s colorful personality. With cuisine that’s fresh and packed with flavor, the establishment offers a JapaneseHawaiian fusion menu that includes poké bowls, soba noodles, and dumplings. 1606 E 6th St.
Paper Route Bakery
Hidden behind a little window next to Cenote, this tiny operation serves up small-batch organic baked goods daily: from cheddar chive scones and strawberry balsamic pop tarts to custom orders. 1010 E. Cesar Chavez St. | paper-route-bakery.business.site
Cherrywood Coffeehouse
With an expansive patio and a continual rotation of events, you’ll find yourself frequenting for the community as often as food, which is an inviting array of tacos, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and smoothies. 1400 E 38th 1/2 St. | cherrywoodcoffeehouse.com
Oddwood Ales
Designed as a cozy neighborhood pub, Oddwood Ales provides a variety of flavorful ales, home-made pizzas, and Italian dishes in a relaxed atmosphere with arcade games and a pet-friendly patio. 3108 Manor Rd. | oddwoodales.com
A casual bistro inspired by the classic old joints of New York City with Italian, French, and Yiddish flavors. Enjoy housemade pasta, pastrami, and lox, steak frites, mussels, cabernet-marinated fried chicken, and a knee-buckling mac and cheese. 1700 E. 2nd St. | gothamatx.com
Yellow Jacket Social Club
Roland’s Soul Food & Fish
The soul food cooked within this bright orange building is made with such heart that it is overflowing with flavor. Ask any soul food lover and they will tell you each piece of battered fish and every bite of your smothered pork chop is a mouthful of comfort. Come hungry; Roland’s doesn’t skimp on potions. 1311 Chestnut Ave.
Gotham ATX
Come for brunch, come for happy hour, come for a good time. Whether you’re on the shaded patio or inside at the bar, the food is always good, and the drinks are always cold at Yellow Jacket Social Club. Plus, this is a pet-friendly establishment. 1704 E 5th St. | yellowjacketsocialclub.com
Little Big Burger
Serving up all-natural 1/4 lb. burgers with Tillamook cheeses, truffle fries, floats, and a wide selection of local brews. Bring veggie burger lovers too and enjoy Happy Hour M-Th 3-7pm. Free onsite parking. 1630 E 6th St. #100 | littlebigburger.com
Micklethwait Craft Meats
Although known for their beef ribs and brisket, if you’re headed to Micklethwait’s, you can’t forget about the sides. Your meal won’t be the same without a scoop of the jalapeño cheese grits or lemon poppy seed coleslaw. 1309 Rosewood Ave. | craftmeatsaustin.com
WORDS BY JESSICA DEVENYNS
{the tasty side of austin}
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eastside | sip
Japanese whiskey. In contrast, Oseyo’s food menu focuses on Korean basics, such as kimchi jigae (spicy kimchi stew), bibimbap (vegetable-focused mixed rice), jjin mandu (dumplings with pork, beef, and kimchi), and bossam (slow-roasted pork belly).
PRINT / ONLINE / SOCIAL Welcome to My Home Oseyo’s cocktails fuse Asian flavors with a Texas tang. WORDS & PHOTO BY GABBY FRASIER
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Oseyo boasts a food menu loaded with traditional Korean home cooking; however, their beverage menu is anything but traditional.
T
he Seoul of Oaxaca—pronounced “soul of wah-HOCK-ah”— starts with a generous pour of smoky Xicaru mezcal infused with pink peppercorn. A splash of Cynar, a bitter artichoke-based liqueur in the amari family, is added for extra bite, then an expertly-sweetened Asian pear and pink
peppercorn syrup is mixed in to round out the peppered, smoky flavors. Finally, the cocktail’s highball glass is grounded with a dusting of earthy seaweed salt. Lead bartender Jonathan Escalona “elevated the drink with a syrup infusion,” assistant general manager Morgan Patchell credits. “The pink pepper-
corn and Asian pear syrup in the Seoul of Oaxaca combines two things: Texas and the Korean foundation of the restaurant itself.” The Seoul of Oaxaca is part of an eclectic cocktail menu combining traditional Mexican cocktail elements with Asian flavors, such as Korean miso paste, gochujang chili powder, and
A Welcoming Space: When translated to
English, the Korean word “oseyo” is an informal greeting that means “welcome to my home.” 58 EASTside | Aug/Sept 2019
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“The food here is very traditional Korean home cooking, but when [owner] Lynn Miller designed the concept, she realized that nobody who’s doing Korean food, or nobody that she knew of, also had an elevated beverage program that included Asian ingredients,” Morgan notes. “We challenged Jonathan and his crew to come up with twists on drinks that would bring in those ingredients.” While Oseyo’s food and beverage selections emphasize seasonal ingredients and plan on rotating within the coming months, the positive reception surrounding the Seoul of Oaxaca has secured the cocktail a permanent spot on the menu. “We have every intention of updating our cocktail menu seasonally,” Morgan admits. “But based on popularity, Seoul of Oaxaca will stick around.”
Contact:
oseyoaustin.com 1628 E. Cesar Chavez St. @oseyoaustin
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