3 minute read
AsianFlair Family for the Home
Old Thousand
New rules about flavors wrap up this traditional cuisine in an atmosphere that 'Shanghais' the senses and defines the cozy relationship of kitsch and elegance that this re-imagined Chinese restaurant cultivates.
1000 E 11th St., Ste. 150 oldthousandatx.com
1618 Asian Fusion
Can’t decide what sort of Asian food to indulge in? Head to 1618 Asian Fusion for an array of Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese, Singaporean, and Southeast Asian foods under the tall ceilings and flowing atmosphere that define this unique space.
1618 E Riverside Dr. (AMLI South Shore) 1618asianfusion.com
Ramen Tatsu-Ya
A far cry from the packaged powder sold in a grocery store, the multi-layered broth is the foundation onto which noodles and toppings are added, each step adding to the savory complexity that is a bowl of ramen. Follow house rules and try eating these delectable noodle bowls with chopsticks.
1600 E 6th St.
Slice
Stepping into Home Slice on East 53rd Street has the feeling of walking into a traditional New York pizzeria, except that the familiar authenticity of red vinyl booths and checkered tablecloths is punctuated by graffiti art, an eclectic collection of artifacts, and ‘80s rock references. But rather than overwhelming, the result is playfully irreverent.
Yet, that irreverence doesn’t translate to the menu, which reflects traditional New York options like pizza margherita, eggplant pie, meatball subs, and Greek salads served with complimentary garlic knots. It turns out that there are rules to creating an authentic slice of NY-style pizza, which Home Slice partner/owner Jeff Mettler says should be “a little bit larger than the old-school paper plate that it sits on.”
Of course, there are also ingredients to consider. “I don't believe that New Yorkstyle pizza should be described as being cheesy, doughy, or saucy,” explains Jeff. “It should be those three items in perfect balance.” The crust should also be thin with a crisp outer skin and a spongy inside.
These rules were imported by the restaurant’s co-founder and owner Jen Strickland when she opened the original pizza parlor in 2005 but were created and perfected in New York. Jeff recounts the legend. Jen learned to make pizza in New York, the epicenter of oversized slices, from a master named Angelo. When she completed her apprenticeship, her mentor awarded her with a stick-on mustache to offer her legitimacy. That fake facial hair has since gone on to become the iconic mark of the Queen of Pies.
While both the Sicilian and New York-style pizzas are undisputedly good, it’s also how it’s eaten that makes the experience fun. There are even directions on how to properly consume a NY slice. When eaten, these slices should be folded. “If you fold it and the grease drips under your wrist, that means you're doing it right,” claims Jeff. Regulars will tell you, while the pizza is good, one keeps coming back for the experience. 501 E 53rd St. | homeslicepizza.com
The decor, the drinks, and the food all work hard to defy classification at Kemuri Tatsu-ya. A bricolage of horns and license plates collide with Japanese bar signs, alluding to a concept described by Director of Culinary Development, Clinton Kendall, as the “Texas roadhouse dive bar slash Japanese samurai movie.” Contrast this visual tidal wave with a thumping background of beats and a crescendo of chatter, and it’s apparent that this izakaya is fueled equally by food, drinks, and fun.
An izakaya, Clinton explains, is “the Japanese version of what you would call a gastropub: a place where you get great food and great drinks.” And both the food and drink menus here are uniquely loud in their flavor profiles.
Although the pairing of succulent meat with tangy vegetables and sauces is a familiar scene for anyone who has eaten Texas barbecue, what is served here is neither Texas barbecue nor purist Japanese cuisine. Cornbread morphs into taiyakishaped delights with sesame butter, and the smoker sends out traditional options like beef, pork, and chicken seasoned with miso, yuzu, and sesame.
“It’s the adaptation of what people grew up with [in Texas] and what Japanese culture can bring to the table,” Chef de Cuisine James Limón explains. To connect these two cuisines, James requires an essential ingredient: smoke.
Whether it’s cooking low and slow on the smoker out front or it’s infusing a cocktail using a bellows, the taste of smoke seeps into brisket bentos, decadent ankimo monkfish liver starters, and trout roe appetizers. Even humble dishes, like Kemuri’s take on gourmet Hot Pockets, have the volume turned up a notch, becoming smoky brisket and gouda-stuffed inari pockets.
The unimaginably rich flavors of these dishes are only amplified by the flashy atmosphere and echos of “Irasshaimase”
– a Japanese greeting – resonating at regular intervals in the dining space. The reverberations blend easily into the space and are just one more layer folded into this new definition of Texas barbecue that seems perfectly at ease in Austin’s expanding culinary scene. 2713 E 2nd St., kemuri-tatsuya.com