eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
G overnor's Mansion OVER 25 DELICIOUS RECIPES
Gathering at the
page 36
FIGHTING FOR THE FAMILY FARM Ben Burkett Receives James Beard Foundation Award for Contributions to Agriculture
5 UNIQUE HOLIDAY COCKTAILS
REAL COOKING WITH CHEF DAVID CREWS
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1
presented by
Join us in Oxford, Mississippi to eat out and help out. Oxford Restaurant Week is a weeklong celebration of local food and charities. Every time you dine at a participating restaurant during Oxford Restaurant Week you can vote for a favorite local charity. The charity with the most votes will receive $5,000. All participating restaurants will be offering special menus, promotions or coupons throughout Oxford Restaurant Week. For more information on special offerings and coupons, visit www.oxfordmsrestaurantweek.com
2 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
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1200 N. STATE STATE STREET, JACKSON, MS M O N D A Y – S A T U R D A Y 1 1 AM t o 1 0 PM
4 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
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themanshipjackson.com
•
VOLUME 4 • NUMBER 1
70
2015
DECEMBER/JANUARY
22 “Cakes are special. Every birthday, every celebration ends with something sweet, a cake, and people remember. It's all about the memories.” • Buddy Valastro •
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5
Want to see what and where we’ve been eating lately? Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty bites we’ve found!
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI
VIETRI’s signature holiday collection is created from maestro artisan Alessandro Taddei’s childhood memories of stories his mother used to read to him about Babbo Natale. Add a touch of Tuscany to your Christmas table with Old St. Nick dinnerware, bakeware, and decorations.
6 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
CONTENTS 21
13 WHAT'S HOT
Feeling Figgy
18 CHEF'S CORNER
Real Cooking with Chef David Crews
22 AMALGAMATION CAKE
The Cake of Christmas Past
26 MISSISSIPPI MADE
Bass Pecan Company
30 FIGHTING FOR THE FAMILY FARM Ben Burkett Receives James Beard Foundation Award for Contributions to Agriculture
34 COMMUNITY
Casserole Kitchen in Starkville
44 IN THE BLOGLIGHT
Menu Musings - Julie May
46 HOLIDAY CHEER
Five Unique Holiday Cocktails
47
50 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND
Melinda Sandifer Serves Downhome Cooking in Portland
49
65
53 FROM THE BOOKSHELF Pizza: A Slice of American History
54 CHRISTMAS MEMORIES
The Last of the Perfect Trees
58 THE HILLS
Kermit's Outlaw Kitchen in Tupelo
62 THE DELTA
Delta Meat Market in Cleveland
66 THE PINES
The Tracks in Winona
70 CAPITAL/RIVER
IN EVERY ISSUE 8 From the Editor 10 From Our Readers 14 Fabulous Foodie Finds 16 Coming to Terms 20 Deep South Dish 78 Events 80 Recipe/Ad Index 82 Till We Eat Again
The Strawberry Cafe in Madison
74 COASTAL
Cannella in Bay St. Louis
ON THE COVER: The Mississippi Governor's Mansion plays host to many gatherings during the Christmas season. See page 36. Photography by Christina Foto. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7
{ from the editor }
C
hristmas traditions abound at my house. From adding a new ornament to the tree to traveling to see decorations, there are some things we seldom waiver from. The same holds true for the food at our family gatherings. Of all our family gatherings, the one with my daddy's side of the family is the largest. And, my cousin, Margaret, best not show up without her traditional Red Velvet Cake. We'd probably let her join us anyway if she didn't bring it, but she's never been brave enough to test us. I refuse to waste calories on anyone else's attempt at this Southern holiday favorite because I think hers can't be topped. It is simply the best. At my in-laws' Christmas dinner, serving Ambrosia is a tradition that has never been broken. Always served in a crystal compote, this light and refreshing salad is presented alongside additional homemade desserts. It's always a welcomed treat between heavy courses. In this issue, contributor Janette Tibbetts reminisces about her childhood when her father would take the family into the woods to cut a fresh Christmas tree. This tradition was always followed with helping her mother make a snowy coconut cake. Don't miss this delicious step back in time on page 54. While we're on the topic of holiday cakes, have you ever heard of an Amalgamation Cake? I hadn't until recently, so I asked contributor Lisa Bynum to find out more about it. Turns out it's quite a showstopper from years past and usually surfaced only once a year at Christmas. Check it out on page 22. Another Christmas tradition I have is decorating themed trees. Some of my friends and family think I'm crazy, (and during the process of putting them up, I agree with them) but each year I decorate eight different trees through my home. I've mentioned paring it back, but my teenage daughter refuses to let me. I have a feeling she will carry on this same tradition in her home one day. My newest addition, in my kitchen/breakfast area, is adorned with cooking and food-related ornaments. The food traditions continue into the new year with cabbage and blackeyed peas on New Year's Day. Eating the two are supposed to bring you good luck. I can't see that they've helped, but I'm not taking any chances, so bring them on. A fried pork chop is the perfect complement. For me, it's a last good meal before the dieting begins. If you don't have any holiday food traditions, I urge you to create one this year. As said in The Hundred-Foot Journey, "Food is memories" and some of the best are made with family bringing in the season of celebrating the birth of our Savior. From my family to yours, we hope you have a Merry Christmas and send best wishes for a Happy New Year! Now get in the kitchen, make some memories, and let's eat!
One of my favorite Christmas traditions is decorating themed trees throughout my home, especially this cooking/food-related one in my breakfast area.
My husband, John, and I were able to check Dyer's Burgers off our culinary bucket list on a recent trip to Memphis.
things." q "For he satisfies the thirsty and fills the hungry with good Psalm 107:9 r 8 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
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{ from our readers } Love your magazine! Lynn Mayfield Destin, Florida ••• I visited Jackson and picked up a copy of your August/September issue and read the article, "Papou's Legacy," about Callie McDole. It's nostalgically spot on! Ironically, I've known this wonderful lady since we attended Millsaps together. Me and my college buddies frequented the Mayflower Cafe when we had a little money to spend. My wife and I now live in Dallas, just a few blocks from Callie and her family. We remain great friends,
and we've known her delightful parents, too. Her dad, "Mr. Mike," was an endearing restaurateur, gentleman, and American WWII hero. Callie was truly a "daddy's girl." Papou's Comeback Sauce is a deliciously unique ode to her father, and Callie is perpetuating his legacy in a way in which he'd be proud. Robert Capps Dallas, Texas ••• Thank you for such a beautiful book. Mary Elaine Aycock Yazoo City
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{contributors} JULIAN BRUNT is a food and culture writer from the Gulf Coast whose roots run more than three hundred years deep in Southern soil. He is deeply concerned with culinary and cultural traditions and thinks no man worth his salt that cannot hold forth in tall tale and willingly endure the heat of the kitchen. LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM is a freelance writer from Grenada. Her work has appeared in several publications in Mississippi. She is a graduate of Delta State University where she received a BA in Marketing and her MBA. In her free time, she enjoys food writing and photography. She currently resides in Brandon. Photo by Alisa Chapman Photography COOP COOPER is a journalist, film critic and filmmaker based in Clarksdale. He graduated from Southern Methodist University with a B.F.A. in Cinema, and received his Masters in Screenwriting from the American Film Institute in Hollywood. You can read his past film-related articles at www.smalltowncritic. com. JO ALICE DARDEN is a book editor and freelance writer. A former lifestyles editor for the Greenwood Commonwealth, she is a regular contributor to its quarterly publication, Leflore Illustrated. She grew up in Greenwood, graduated from Delta State University with a major in English, and now lives in Cruger with her husband Bob, also a writer, on his family’s farm. SUSAN MARQUEZ lives and writes in Madison. She has a degree in Radio-TV-Film from the University of Southern Mississippi and had a long career in advertising and marketing before stumbling into a freelance writing career in 2001. Hundreds of published articles later, Marquez still loves to tell the stories of the interesting people, places, and events throughout the South.
KATHY K. MARTIN is an Ole Miss journalism graduate who currently lives in Collierville, Tennessee with her husband and two children. She works as a freelance writer and chairs her church’s Christian writers group.
LINDSAY MOTT is a freelance writer on the Gulf Coast who graduated with a journalism degree from Spring Hill College in Alabama. Over the years, she has grown to love all the great food, music, scenery and more that Mississippi has to offer. Her dream meal would consist of fried chicken, chicken and dumplings, caramel cake, and coffee.
12 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
JULIE SKIPPER, an attorney and freelance writer, is a graduate of Millsaps College and Vanderbilt University Law School. She spends her spare time soaking up as much of Jackson's vibrant arts and food scene as possible. Julie is a parishioner at St. Andrew's Cathedral and serves on the Greater Jackson Metro Chamber's Vision 2022 committee. Among her extracurricular activities, she enjoys travel and wine, and hopes to one day combine the two in a trip to Napa Valley. GENNIE TAYLOR, a Forest native, is the publications coordinator at East Central Community College in Decatur and a freelance writer, photographer, and graphic designer. She is the former editor of The Demopolis Times, a five-day daily newspaper in Demopolis, Ala., and managing editor of The Scott County Times, a weekly newspaper in her hometown. A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi with a Bachelor’s Degree in Journalism, she has received numerous awards from the Associated Press and the Mississippi and Alabama Press Associations. She is married to Steven Taylor and they have a daughter, Mallory Grace. In her free time, she enjoys traveling, reading, and cooking. JANETTE TIBBETTS is a ninth generation Mississippian. She grew up on a Jones County dairy farm, attended Millsaps, taught school, and was a merchant. She is the founder and curator of "The Sandbank," a Beatrix Potter Collection, at USM. She is a freelance writer and photographer. Janette writes weekly garden and food columns for magazines and newspapers. She was awarded a writer’s grant from the Mississippi Art’s Commission and the National Endowment of the Arts. She lives with her husband, Jon, and writes in their home near Hattiesburg. A published author of short stories, she is presently completing a novel. KELSEY WELLS is a news writer at Lawrence County Press in Monticello. She is a graduate of Southwest Mississippi Community College where she served as editor of The Pine Burr. She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Communications at William Carey University and served as a staff writer and life editor of The Cobbler student newspaper until she became managing editor her senior year. She currently resides in the Divide community where she is active in her church and community. KATIE HUTSON WEST is a freelance writer from Tupelo. She is a graduate of Mississippi State University where she earned a B.S. degree in Marketing, Communications, and Business Psychology. An avid traveler, when home she resides in Starkville.
{ what's hot }
Feeling Figgy
T adored by young and old alike. This year, complete he highlight of many a holiday meal, desserts are
your festive celebration with a delightful dessert that features figs. In this cheesecake dessert, dried figs add a stunning fruit accent when chopped and combined with a little hazelnut liqueur and caramel for a luscious bottom layer. Naturally sweet and available year round, figs easily add a touch of elegance to a variety of recipes. Dark purple
Mission Figs have a soft, thin skin with a sweet, fruity taste, while Golden Figs are amber-colored with a firmer skin, well-developed seeds, and a slightly nutty flavor. Both are interchangeable in most recipes. Besides the sweetness that they bring to the table, figs are a healthy ingredient rich in dietary fiber, complex carbohydrates, and such essential minerals as potassium, iron, and calcium. edm
Caramel Fig Mini Cheesecakes 1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs 1/3 cup finely chopped hazelnuts or pecans 2 tablespoons butter, melted 1-1/2 cups finely chopped, stemmed Blue Ribbon Orchard Choice or Sun-Maid California Figs 1/4 cup caramel ice cream topping 3 tablespoons hazelnut liqueur or orange juice 1 pound (two 8-ounce packages) cream cheese, softened 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 large eggs Thinly sliced figs 1/4 cup caramel ice cream topping 1 tablespoon hazelnut liqueur or orange juice Preheat oven to 325°F. Line 12 (2-3/4-inch) muffin cups with paper cups. Combine graham cracker crumbs, nuts and melted butter. Press firmly into bottoms of cups. Bake in middle of
oven for 5 minutes, until fragrant. Remove from oven and reserve. In small saucepan, combine figs, caramel topping and liqueur. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly, and cook for 1 minute or until most of liquid is absorbed. Spoon figs over crusts and press firmly with back of spoon to even layer. In bowl with electric mixer, beat cream cheese on medium-low speed until creamy, scraping bowl frequently. Beat in sugar, lemon juice and vanilla. On low speed, beat in eggs, one at a time. Spoon cheese mixture into cups over fig mixture. Return to middle of oven for 18–20 minutes, till set. Remove from oven and cool in pan on wire rack. Chill in pan for 3 hours. To serve, carefully remove cheesecakes from pan and paper cups to serving plates. For topping, fan fig slices on top of cheesecakes. Combine caramel topping and liqueur; drizzle over cakes. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13
{ fabulous foodie finds }
F letK it
E
Snow in Mississippi is a rare sight, so we've rounded up some beautiful pieces to bring the snow to your holiday table.
0
Snow 3 E U
0
F Snowflake Cakelet Pan, $36.00 Williams-Sonoma Ridgeland
K Frosted Snowflake Goblet $12.95 each Pier 1 Imports - Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Ridgeland, Southaven, Tupelo
14 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Silver snowflake porcelain dinner plate, $4.99 each Target D'Iberville, Flowood, Hattiesburg, Horn Lake, Jackson, Olive Branch
F
3
E
E
3
K
0 Vietri Snowflake Serving Bowl, $79.00 The Everyday Gourmet, Ridgeland The Kitchen Table, Hattiesburg
E Holiday Wishes Appetizer Plate set of four, $19.95 Pier 1 Imports - Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Ridgeland, Southaven, Tupelo
F
F
3 see page 80 for store information
Snowman mugs - set of four, $39.95 Williams-Sonoma, Ridgeland eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15
coming to terms
Of THEKitchen IN
E
TH
with julian brunt
Ragù Ragù is an Italian meat sauce served with pasta or polenta. It is characterized by a solid vegetable base and long slow cooking. The results are a rich and hearty sauce that clings to the pasta. It differs dramatically from a fresh tomato sauce that is only briefly cooked and is more about the fresh tomatoes and fresh herbs. Ragù is thought of as more a fall and winter dish. For best results, brown the meat being used (sausage, beef, pork), sauté onions, bell pepper, celery, and garlic (total volume 3 cups) for 30 minutes, combine with best quality whole tomatoes, a glass of wine, and simmer for 2 hours. Season with red pepper flakes and fresh herbs to finish. As is almost always the case with tomato based sauces, it is much better the next day.
Festive Side Dish for Your Holiday Table Add some celebration to your spread with Festive Loaded Mashed Potatoes. Red bell pepper and green onion bring crunch, color, and flavor to round out a merry mealtime.
Festive Loaded Mashed Potatoes 2-1/2 cups water 3 tablespoons butter 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1-1/4 cups milk 2-2/3 cups Hungry Jack Mashed Potato Flakes 1 cup sour cream 1-1/2 cups shredded cheddar cheese 6 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled 3/4 cup diced red bell pepper, or jarred roasted red bell pepper, drained and diced 1/2 cup sliced green onion 16 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Heat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease or coat with cooking spray 9-inch-by-9-inch or 2-quart baking dish. Heat water, butter, salt and pepper until simmering in large saucepan. Remove pan from heat. Stir in milk and potato flakes until blended. Let stand 1 minute. Stir in sour cream. Spread half potatoes in prepared baking dish. Top with cheddar cheese and bacon. Spread remaining potatoes on top and sprinkle with red pepper and green onion. Cover and bake until heated through, 25–30 minutes. Servings: 8
HUNT THE DELTA
www.msdeltaducks.com info@msdeltaducks.com
Walk with your duck hunting guide across a Mississippi grain field beneath a grey winter sky (with one of MS Delta Dogs waterdrenched Labs at your side) on land that is maintained to prime conservation standards. Enjoy a morning in the blind with a skilled guide whose Southern manners and the warm friendliness that resides beneath will put you at ease. Hunt in venues including wetland areas full of wildlife or harvested grain fields which are part of land-management programs and located in waterfowl areas that we believe in. It’ll make you glad that you’ve left the stresses of everyday life behind and feeling privileged to have been a part of the Delta-waterfowl experience. Come hunt with us!
662.455.6556 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17
{ chef's corner }
Real Cooking by david crews
I
n the South, many more Southern chefs are things are held sacred: starting to look to their Sunday church, family mothers and grandmothgatherings, SEC football, ers for inspiration instead and especially food! of “Le Répertoire de la In the South, recipes Cuisine.” More chefs are choosing to buy or are not just handed grow local produce with down from generation heirloom seed reaching to generation, they are back decades, and also entrusted like a family more chefs are choosing dowry. Grandmothers to move away from fine and mothers teaching dining and move towards new daughters-in-law farm-to-table. Personally how to make the family’s this is one food movesecret pecan pie, or a ment I am happy to jump father passing on his on board with! knowledge of how to Throughout my years cook an award winning as a chef, I have come to Boston butt, or when is realize that real cookthe perfect time to flip a ing is not as much about steak, that my friends is real cooking! knowledge as it is a personal and private love Over the past couple affair between the cook of years in the South, I and his or her product. have seen what I conFood in the South is a way sider to be a resurgence to say hello, good bye, I of Real Cooking. I have am sorry, or I love you. In a lot of people ask me other words, food is a way “What do you mean, of life! Some people think real cooking?” and I it is crazy to waste three answer them, “To me hours of preparation for real cooking is not food a 30 minute dinner, but that I need two years that 30 minutes might be of college chemistry to the highlight of someone’s even understand what I Chef David Crews day! edm am eating, or food that is so pretty I don’t know whether to eat it or take a picture. To me, real cooking is food David Crews is executive chef of Six Shooter Land and Timyou grew up eating, food that sparks emotion and brings back ber in Drew, Miss., a private farm and hunting preserve. In admemories of a simpler time. Real cooking is making your dition, he is a chef instructor in the Culinary Arts Technology food just taste good.” Program at Mississippi Delta Community College in Moorhead In my personal opinion, the South and Southern chefs where he started an international study program. are leading this movement back to real cooking. More and
18 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
"These [recipes] are in my grandmother's (Mary Moore Crews) handwriting and were finally written down, after years of begging her, in 1991. She passed [away] two years ago, but her recipes live on!" - Chef David Crews
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19
{ deep south dish }
Food. Family. Memories.
Chicken and Dumplings Made from Scratch are Worth the Effort BY MARY FOREMAN
I
didn't grow up with what many Southerners deem to be a classic dumpling for stewed chicken. Mama's chicken and dumplings had fluffy little puffs of biscuit dough floating in them and they were so good. It's the way I made them when I moved on from my parents' house to the house I shared with my husband, and they remain my favorite still today. Frankly, no two Southerners are likely to agree on how chicken and dumplings should be made anyway, but I know of quite a few other Southerners who also share my love for drop dumplings. As usual, it seems to depend on what you grew up with. We take chicken and dumplings for granted as a common meal these days. Years ago it was a meal that was more often served at special times like Sunday dinner, or when involving the attendance of the pastor or company, or even for a special occasion, such as a birthday. Today, we can use all sorts of shortcuts that help with throwing it together anytime we want it, but back in the day, it was rarely served simply because we had the taste for it. Mamas would often send children out for intentional exercise to chase down and deliver to her one of the older hens, usually one that had stopped producing eggs. Have you ever tried to catch a chicken? I have and it is, indeed, exercise! Fortunately, the adults and very often mama or grandma, would take care of the hard parts of bringing that chicken to the table. Thank goodness we only have to go to the grocery store and buy our hens and chickens in a cellophane wrapper or bag, minus all that drama.
Mary Foreman, a native of Biloxi, is the author of the popular website deepsouthdish.com, where she shares her favorite, homespun, mostly from scratch and, very often, heirloom and heritage, Southern recipes.
20 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
The slow stewing process of making homemade chicken and dumplings was a perfect way to use those older hens and, let's face it, stewing a large chicken in a big stockpot and then adding a dumpling would certainly help to fill a lot of bellies for families that were much larger back then than they are today. Here in the Deep South, we often make a light brown roux with our chicken and dumpling, giving it a rich flavor and a beige color. I did something a little different with my recipe because I wanted a thick and creamy, stark-white milk gravy, somewhat reminiscent of a chicken and dumplings dish served at a highway restaurant you just might know. So, yes, this is a real deal, old-fashioned, made-fromscratch, Southern-style chicken and dumplings like our great grandmothers might have made it. Dough rolled and cut into squares or strips. No cream of chicken soup. No boxes or cans of chicken broth. No whompf biscuits, flour tortillas, or baking mix dumplings. No rotisserie chicken meat or boneless, skinless chicken breasts. No shortcuts. Not that there's anything wrong with a single one of these shortcuts. I've certainly used them all! By the way, while we Southerners like to think of chicken and dumplings as being our very own, well... it ain't exactly so. It's actually a dish that is eaten in some form in many other areas of the country. Even in some areas of the South, some call this style of chicken and dumplings "Chicken ‘n Pastry." In the Pennyslvania Dutch area of the U.S., they call a similar dish "Pot Pie," or sometimes "Slippery Pot Pie," which is totally different from the chicken pot pie that we Southerners know. If you're in the Appalachians, you may know a similar stew with flat dumplings called "Chicken and Slicks." Seems chicken and dumplings is pretty much loved across this good ole U.S. of A., no matter the name. I like to serve mine with a skillet of cornbread, corn muffins or biscuits, and crowder peas, Southern-style green beans, skillet creamed corn, or simply buttered carrots, and of course, sweet tea. If you have only ever made chicken and dumplings using a shortcut method, and never from scratch, you are truly in for a treat when you try this recipe. That first bite is sure to bring you back to days past. If you need a little more help, visit my website DeepSouthDish.com for a step-by-step picture tutorial. Let's get cookin' y'all! edm
Homemade Southern Style Chicken and Dumplings From the kitchen of Deep South Dish
For the Stock: 1 large (4 to 6 pounds) hen or hens Water to cover, plus an inch 1 whole celery rib with leaves, rinsed and cut into large chunks 1 large carrot, unpeeled, rinsed and cut into large chunks 1 medium onion, unpeeled and quartered 2 sprigs fresh parsley 1 medium bay leaf 1/2 tablespoon kosher salt For the Dumplings: 2 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/8 teaspoon poultry seasoning 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper 1/3 cup of lard vegetable shortening 1 cup buttermilk For the Stew: 6 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup milk 2 quarts reserved chicken stock 1 to 2 teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper, or to taste 1/4 teaspoon of garlic powder, or to taste, optional 1 tablespoon chicken base (like Better Than Bouillon) 4 cups of the reserved chicken, torn into large pieces To prepare stock, quarter chicken and place in a tall stockpot. Cover with water, plus about an extra inch; add celery, carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaf and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered, at a steady but low simmer for 1 hour. Do not boil. Remove chicken and once cool enough to handle, hand pull meat into large chunks. You'll want about 4 cups of pulled chicken. Strain stock into a container, discarding the skin, bones and vegetables. Skim off as much fat from the top of the stock as you can; reserve two quarts and refrigerate or freeze remaining stock for another use. For the dumplings, whisk together flour, baking powder, poultry seasoning, salt and pepper. Cut in lard or shortening to form pebbles; add only enough of the buttermilk so that dough comes together and pulls away from bowl. Turn out onto a generously floured surface and knead 4 or continued on page 80 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21
Amalgation Cake 22 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
The
T Cake of Christmas
Past
story and photography by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum
W
hen I was asked to write an article about the Amalgamation Cake, I had no idea that this grand dame of Southern desserts would prove to be so elusive and mysterious. Here in the South, a family recipe is almost as treasured as the family Bible. Often, there is no recipe. Just a technique passed down generation to generation. If a recipe does exist, sometimes it is nothing more than a hastily written list of ingredients and vague instructions. Many recipes are closely-guarded secrets that certain members of the family are sworn by blood to protect. The Amalgamation Cake is one such recipe. I began my investigation by asking friends, family members, and even perfect strangers if they knew our cake in question. Half of those I polled had never heard of the dessert. The other half all told similar stories. Each had a family member – father, brother, uncle, grandfather – who considered Amalgamation Cake to be their favorite dessert. And each had a mother, sister, aunt, grandmother who made it every year – usually around the holidays. The origin is unknown. States all across the Southeast each claim her as their own. However, when I began my research for a tried-and-true Amalgamation Cake recipe, I discovered dozens and dozens of recipes, each one varying widely. Ingredients ranged from five eggs to ten. Jam or no jam for the filling. Some recipes included detailed instructions while others were so vague they didn’t even list a baking time or temperature. One thing they all agree on – freshly grated coconut was best. I finally settled on this recipe. It seemed to have all the necessary ingredients and step-by-step instructions. The more involved I got in the process, the more I understood why this decadent dessert only makes an appearance once a year. It is a labor of love to create, requiring many steps and just as many mixing bowls. Merriam-Webster defines amalgamation as, “to unite two or more things into one thing.” I can only assume the cake got its name from the process required to combine raisins, coconut, and a whole lotta butter and eggs. I have to admit, once my creation was complete, it’s an impressive dessert. Tall, regal, sugary sweet and flanked by sweet potato casserole or your Grandmother’s recipe for cornbread dressing, this lady would look right at home on a Christmas dinner table. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23
Amalgamation Cake For the cake: 2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, room temperature 2 cups granulated sugar 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup whole milk, room temperature 5 egg whites, room temperature For the fruit filling: 5 egg yolks, room temperature 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter 1 cup raisins 1 cup sweetened grated coconut 1 cup chopped pecans For the boiled white frosting: 2 cups granulated sugar 3/4 cup water 1 teaspoon cream of tartar 2 egg whites, room temperature For the cake: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare two 9-by-2-inch round cake pans. Set aside. Place butter in the bowl of an electric mixer. Cream on medium-low speed and gradually add the sugar. Continue mixing until pale yellow. In a medium mixing bowl, sift together 3 cups flour, baking powder and salt. With the mixer on low, add about a third of the dry ingredients. Follow with half of the milk. Repeat the steps, ending with the remaining dry ingredients. Continue to mix, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until ingredients are thoroughly combined. In another clean mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, about 3 to 5 minutes. Take a cup of the beaten whites and whisk it into the batter. Then gently fold the remaining whites into the batter. Divide the batter between the prepared pans. Bake until the tops are pale golden and a toothpick inserted into the
24 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
center comes clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool slightly. Invert the cake layers onto a rack to cool completely. For the filling: Combine the egg yolks, sugar and butter in a medium, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture is thick, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the raisins, coconut and pecans. Set mixture aside and keep warm. For the frosting: In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the sugar, water and cream of tartar. Heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar has dissolved. Increase heat to a boil. Do not stir anymore. Boil, washing down sides of pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water from time to time to prevent the sugar from crystallizing, until a candy thermometer registers 240 degrees, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 2 1/2 minutes. Remove the sugar syrup from the heat when the temperature reaches 240 degrees. Pour the syrup in a steady stream down the side (to avoid splattering) of the bowl containing the egg white mixture, with the mixer on mediumlow speed. Beat frosting on medium speed until cool, 5 to 10 minutes. The frosting should be thick and shiny. To assemble the cake, place one of the cooled cake layers on plate. Spread the top with half the fruit filling. Top with the second layer, bottom side up, You may have to trim little of the rounded part off the top of the cake to ensure it sits flat and secure. Spread the remaining fruit filling over the top of the cake only. Ice the sides of the cake with the reserved boiled icing. Serves 14
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25
{ mississippi made }
Bass Pecan Company Has Roots Full of History & Bears Pecans Boasting with Flavor story by gennie phillips taylor | photos provided
B
ass Pecan Company has roots of rich history and bears pecans rich in flavor, providing not only natural pecans in numerous variety, but also chocolate and candycoated pecans, pecan pie, and an array of jellies, syrups, and pecan oil. The company was founded in 1906 as I.E. Bass & Sons Pecan Company and became the largest pecan nursery in the world. In 2009, Bass Pecan partnered with Smith Pecans of Raymond, combining more than 210 years of pecan history and experience to its loyal customers. “Even with the rapid growth, we remain ever faithful to the uncompromising quality that has made Bass Pecan Company successful since 1906,” said co-owner Susan Draughn, whose husband Max Draughn purchased the company in 2006. “Current tree customers tell us that their grandparents or great-grandparents purchased pecan trees from Bass.” The company’s history began in 1899 when the original owner, I.E. Bass, planted his first pecan trees in the small southern Mississippi town of Lumberton. Not long after, Bass was selling pecan trees and other farm products. Ten years later in 1909, the first I.E. Bass & Sons Pecan Company catalog was distributed. One of I.E. Bass’ sons, I.H. Bass, had a special interest in pecans. He learned how to graft and improve the seedling pecan trees and took an active role in the management and operation of the I.E. Bass & Sons Pecan Company. During the years immediately following World War I, I.H. Bass bought several pecan nurseries along the Mississippi Gulf Coast, which is historically known as the birthplace of many of the best known pecan varieties in the industry. I.H. Bass parlayed the varieties from these nurseries into
26 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
what would become the largest pecan tree nursery in the world for the next several decades. Around 1925, I.H. Bass purchased his father's interest in the company and changed its name to Bass Pecan Company. From its first catalog in 1909, Bass Pecan Company continuously increased catalog distribution and its mail order business. In 1928, the company mailed 1.5 million catalogs. By 1930, the catalogs and shipping had grown to such a volume that the town of Lumberton opened a post office to handle the increased mail from Bass Pecan Company. After the Draughns bought the company, they moved the operations from Lumberton to Raymond and Canton. “Our current base of operations is an almost 500 acre farm in Raymond, originally part of a plantation that dates from before the Civil War,” Draughn said. “The orchards were planted in the early 1870s making them one of the oldest pecan orchards in the country. Over 750 of these 140+ year old trees still thrive and produce excellent quality pecans. Over the past 10 years, over 4,000 new trees have been planted to further enhance our offerings.” Draughn said after the nuts are harvested in Raymond, where they are cleaned, dried, and sized, some nuts go directly to the stores for in-shell pecans and others are sent to the company’s shelling plant in Mt. Olive. Once shelled, the nuts are returned to Raymond where they are bagged and put in the stores. “During harvest season, the nuts can go through this entire process in less than a week, making our pecans the freshest available,” she said. “The timing of getting pecans from the orchard to your kitchen affects the taste of the pecan. The quicker a pecan is eaten after harvested the more nutritious and flavorful it is.”
Bass Pecan Company’s Raymond Orchard
Draughn said the company is best known for pecan trees, however people also know Bass Pecan Company for its fresh pecans, both in the shell (in-shell) and shelled. “We sell in-shell pecans by variety,” she said. “Long-time customers know exactly which variety of pecan suits their palate and buy accordingly.” “Surprisingly, pecans have a variety of tastes much like wines are different based on grape and fermenting process used. We have a loyal customer following for each variety. You can purchase by variety in our store, [by] phone, or [on our] website.” Some Bass Pecan Company’s top sellers include natural pecans - those are pecans in the shell and shelled. “We sell several sizes of shelled pecans - mammoth halves jr., mammoth halves, and then also pecan pieces,” she said. “Our customers will come from all over the country during the fall to purchase their favorite variety from one of our stores. It is not unusual on a Saturday in November to find people in our store from Michigan, Texas, and Missouri along with locals buying their favorites to take home.” A common question asked is “what kind of pecans should they buy,” Draughn said. “In our stores, you can sample each variety to pick your personal favorite.” “Old timers will ask for paper shell pecans. Paper shell
is not a variety or type, but a description of the shell. Most of our varieties are considered "paper shell" or thin shelled (thus easier to hand crack). Some are just thinner shelled than others.” Draughn said not only are the pecans flavorful, they are also nutritious. “Most people don't realize that pecans are just as good for you as almonds,” she said. “Pecans actually have more antioxidants than almonds, cashews, peanuts or walnuts. Pecans have a considerable amount of Vitamin E, have over 19 vitamins and minerals, are a natural source for protein, and in their natural state are sodium free. Pecans contain 10 percent of the recommended daily value for fiber in one ounce.” In addition, the company’s chocolate and candy-coated pecans are also big sellers, especially during the holiday season, Draughn said. “We currently carry 10 flavors of coated pecans including roasted and salted, milk chocolate, praline, and honey crisp.” In addition, Bass Pecan Company sells its own pecan pies. “We have a traditional nine-inch pecan pie and also a chocolate pecan nine-inch pie,” she said. The company also carries an array of jellies, syrups and pecan oil. Throughout the years, the company has added store-
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27
front locations and revamped the original. “The Lumberton store has been remodeled and new Bass Pecan Company locations have opened in Canton and Raymond,” Draughn said. While the stores are open primarily during harvest season, October through December, the company’s website and phone service are open year-round. “We look forward to expanding, not only into other locales, but the product line as well,” Draughn said. “Even with the rapid growth, we remain ever faithful to the uncompromising quality that has made Bass Pecan Company successful since 1906.” Most of Bass Pecan Company's products can be ordered online or by phone, with the exception of a few specialty items that are just found in the stores. “We ship all over the world,” said Draughn. “Interestingly enough, we ship a lot to China for the Chinese New Year.
Pecans are becoming very popular in the Asian markets. Draughn said the company is constantly looking for new pecan recipes or adapting favorites to use Bass products. The company hosts a Recipe Contest that ends on December 31 each year and encourages customers to send in their favorite pecan recipes. Several of the recipes can be watched on Bass Pecan Company’s You Tube channel or by going to the recipe blog which is found by a link on the bottom of the home page of the company’s website. edm
Dark chocolate pecans
The Traditional Tin is a combination of everyone's favorite traditional flavors: Milk Chocolate, Honey Crisp, Roasted & Salted, and Praline Pecans.
tizer
Appe
Bass Pecan Company 279 Soldiers Colony Road, Canton 1-800-PECANS1 www.basspecan.com Storefronts in Canton, Raymond and Lumberton
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28 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
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FARM TO SC HOOL MONT H GREENVILL E'S DELTA HOT TAMA HUNGER GA LE FESTIVA INS: THE RE L VOLUTIONA RY ACT OF EATING LO CAL eat. drink
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Getting a taste of Mississippi has never been easier! eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29
2014 honoree Ben Burkett at the fourth annual James Beard Foundation Leadership Awards held at Hearst Tower in New York City on October 27, 2014. Photo by Ken Goodman.
30 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Fighting for the Family Farm story By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum | photo courtesy of james beard foundation
I
f you were to strike up a conversation with Ben Burkett in the supermarket, knowing nothing about him, you might assume at first, with his Southern drawl and hands that look like they’ve put in a hard day’s work out in the field, that he was your typical, down home Mississippi farmer. If you stopped there, Ben Burkett would probably just have you believe that he is nothing more than that - a farmer. You would never know that Ben Burkett has traveled around the world. That he’s a fourth generation farmer growing crops on a piece of land that has been in his family since the late 1800’s. Or that Mr. Burkett, in his faded overalls and salt and pepper hair, has a James Beard Award at home. He’s not just any farmer. He’s one heck of a farmer. Burkett grew up outside of Petal on land that his great grandfather homesteaded shortly after the Civil War came to an end. Coming from a farm family, it’s probably no surprise that as a boy he was active in 4-H and grew his first successful crop at the age of 12. After earning a degree in agriculture from Alcorn, his plans were to leave Mississippi far behind. “In 1973, everyone was going to Chicago. That’s where I was heading, too,” Burkett explains. “But my father got sick and my mother asked me to come back and help with the crops.” It was only supposed to be for one season, but yield was good that year and prices were even better. The lure of money enticed him to stay one more year, then another, then another. One more year turned into over 40. In the late 1970’s, the price of crops fell and many
farmers began losing their land. It was around this time that Burkett and seven other farmers decided to pool their resources to form what would later become the Indian Springs Farmers Association. In the 1980’s, Burkett took a position with the Federation of Southern Cooperatives (FSC) and through his connections, helped his small rural farmer’s association become a full-fledged cooperative. Today, the cooperative is 34 members strong. It’s one of ten groups that make up the Mississippi Association of Cooperatives (MAC), the local extension of the FSC and where Burkett currently serves as state coordinator. Like the local cooperatives, MAC provides its members with the support and security they need to improve their lives and communities, including a state-of-the-art packing facility where farmers can bring their produce for shipment. As a young 21-yearold fresh out of college, Burkett probably never imagined that farming would take him to places much farther than Chicago. Burkett became involved in the National Family Farm Coalition (NFFC), a non-profit that works with local co-ops to bring sustainable, economically just, healthy, safe and secure food to consumers on a national level. He currently serves as president of the NFFC executive committee, representing the organization internationally during his travels to Europe, Asia, Africa and Latin America. The trips afford him the opportunity to share his knowledge of farming while bringing home new techniques that he is able to introduce to his fellow farmers back home. Had Ben Burkett decided to stay in Chicago and not come home to become a farmer, it’s likely the landscape of farming in Mississippi would be com-
“My main goal has been to keep the family farm in business,” Burkett says. “Ninety-five percent of the farms in Mississippi are family farms. I hope they will always be around.”
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31
pletely different. “My main goal has been to keep the family farm in business,” Burkett says. “Ninety-five percent of the farms in Mississippi are family farms. I hope they will always be around.” In March 2014, Burkett’s contributions to agriculture were recognized in a way that he could never have imagined. He received a call from Susan Ungaro, president of the James Beard Foundation. Based in New York City, the non-profit seeks to celebrate, nurture, and honor America’s diverse culinary heritage through programs that educate and inspire. Their highly coveted restaurant and chef awards have long been considered “The Oscars” of the food industry. Ungaro informed Burkett that he was one of five individuals slated to receive a James Beard Foundation Leadership Award, which recognizes visionaries across a broad range of backgrounds who influence how, why, and what we eat. Honorees are chosen by past Leadership Award recipients. Among them include chef, author and restaurateur Alice Waters and First Lady Michelle Obama. Burkett received his award on October 27, 2014, at a dinner ceremony co-hosted by Good Housekeeping at the Hearst Tower in New York City. His fellow recipients included New York Times journalist Mark Bittman; food justice activist
Navina Khanna; writer, journalist, and University of California, Berkeley professor Michael Pollan; and urban farmer and community activist Karen Washington. “There are probably 100 more people more deserving of this award than me, but I am honored that I was chosen,” Burkett adds. “This is a highly respected award and I’m blessed to be one of the recipients.” Adds Ungaro, “The James Beard Foundation Leadership Awards honor innovators who are making a difference and shedding light on the important issues that our food world faces, from fighting hunger to public health. We recognized Ben Burkett, a life-long family farmer, for his support of the American family farm and advocacy for the rights of every individual to wholesome food, clean water, air, and land.” Back home, it’s business as usual. It’s harvesting time and Burkett has several members of his family out in his fields helping him bring in the crops. He’s pleased that his daughter Darnella has decided to join him as the fifth generation on the family farm. “Farming is all I have ever done, but I can’t say anything bad about it. There are good years and there are bad years, but that’s part of it,” he reflects. “It has been a good life.” edm
Delicious Side Dish to Warm Up Holidays A delicious combination of spinach, potatoes and creamy cheese is the perfect complement to your holiday entree. This recipe for Double Cheese Spinach-Potato Pie is a hearty, flavorful side that can be served in its classic pie form or as a casserole.
Double Cheese Spinach-Potato Pie 1 carton (4.2 ounces) Hungry Jack Cheesy Hashbrown Potatoes 3/4 cup Hungry Jack Mashed Potato Flakes 3/4 cup milk 2 eggs 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon salt 16 ounces frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry 2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil Refresh hashbrown potatoes according to package directions. After 12 minutes, drain and squeeze out any excess liquid from carton. Heat oven to 425°. Coat 9-inch pie dish with cooking spray. 32 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
While hashbrowns are standing, combine potato flakes, milk, eggs, Parmesan, pepper and salt in large bowl. Mix in spinach. Add oil to refreshed hashbrowns in carton and mix well. Spread 3/4 of hashbrowns firmly onto bottom and sides of prepared pie dish. Spoon spinach mixture lightly into dish. Top evenly with remaining hashbrowns, fluffing hashbrowns with fork. Bake until hashbrowns are well-browned and center is set, 30–35 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before slicing into wedges. Note: To thaw spinach, microwave in large bowl on HIGH for 4–5 minutes. Place in colander and press firmly with spoon or spatula to drain liquid. Servings: 6
SAVE THE DATE Rain or Shine April 18, 2015 Renaissance at Colony Park Ridgeland, MS
MORE INFORMATION AT SANTESOUTH.COM BENEFITTING THE
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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33
{ community }
Meeting a Need in Starkville...
One Casserole at a Time
34 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
story by lindsay mott photography by divian conner photography
F
ood meets different needs for different people. It can be a comfort, a trip down memory lane, a new culinary experience with friends and family, a celebration, and, of course, meets a basic human need. First Presbyterian Church in Starkville understands the importance of food and has created an interesting food ministry to support their local community. Casserole Kitchen began serving meals to those in need in early 2009, according to George Light, chairman of the CK board. More than 15 local churches and other volunteer groups work together to provide three weekly meals. Each group provides one of these meals and decides the menu while the church hosts the group and provides basic supplies. “We knew there was poverty and need in Oktibbeha county and we thought we could do our little part in a small way to fight against that,” Light said. The original idea was to provide “hot, healthy, all-in-one kind of meals,” according to Light, so they focused on casseroles for a while. Over time, they’ve evolved to provide a variety of meals including barbecue, fried chicken, green bean casserole, baked chicken, sloppy joes, lasagna, and chicken spaghetti, which is a favorite. The meals are typically cooked by the group in charge that week, but sometimes items are donated. “It’s always fun to host because you never know what you’re going to be providing,” he said. Light said the home-cooked meals are enjoyable for the guests, and, although the food may not always be completely healthy, they are providing a well-rounded meal for those in need. He said casseroles are good for this because they can be healthy, but are also nice and warm. “The notion was, let’s put together a meal ministry in a warm, kind place where people can come and have fellowship, enjoy the meal, feel safe, and be out of the elements,” Light said. To facilitate this idea further, the ministry encourages fellowship by expecting the guests to sit and stay for the meal there and not to just show up, grab a plate, and go. This is something they are proud of and have stuck to over the years. Besides just providing a meal for the needy, CK also gives guests who might be older and lonely a place to go. Casserole Kitchen has been steadily offering meals three times a week, year-round since 2009 and has grown over the years to serve an average of 30 to 35 guests at each meal and more than 20,000 meals since they started. The ministry has been recognized locally as the 2014 Community Organization of the Year by Volunteer Starkville. Light said they are probably the largest, non-denominational, ecumenical mission in the county. The 15 churches are of all sizes, races, and creeds, and the student organizations provide a variety of volunteers as well. The organization is unique in what it provides and the different kinds of groups involved. He said they’ve survived the
Volunteers are a vital part of Casserole Kitchen's ministry.
years on a limited budget but lots of volunteer participation, and they always seem to have enough. “It’s a neat service organization,” he said. Casserole Kitchen serves meals on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 6 to 6:30 p.m. and on Saturdays from 11:30 a.m. to noon at the FPC Fellowship Hall. The walk-up service is free to those who need a meal and nothing is expected from them. edm
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35
G overnor's Mansion Gathering at the
36 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
story by julie skipper | photography by christina foto photo this page provided
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37
Assorted Crudités with Pimento & Cheese
38 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Mississippi Governor's Mansion Opens Its Doors for Gatherings and Tours During Holiday Season
A
s First Lady and Governor Phil Bryant can attest, the phrase “home for the holidays” takes on a somewhat different meaning when one’s home is a National Historic Landmark. The Governor and his wife are the current occupants of what is the second oldest continuously occupied governor’s mansion in the country, and balancing history of the Mansion—construction on it began in 1893— with updated traditions is particularly important as the First Couple and Mansion staff prepare for the holiday season. Cora Gee, who has served as Mansion Administrator for eighteen years and overseen her fair share of holiday hustle and bustle, says, “We call it Christmas in July, because that’s when we start the planning.” At that time, the First Lady chooses a theme for the year’s decorations. This year, Governor Bryant’s proclamation of 2014 as the Year of the Creative Economy served as the jumping off point for the holidays at the Mansion. Decorations envisioned and brought to life by the Mansion staff, curator, and decorator Wendy Putt of Fresh Cut Catering and Floral will highlight the varied elements of the state’s creative economy, from visual arts and music to movies and theater. After an intense week at the end of November decking the Mansion halls, the space opens to the public with a festive Candlelight Tour on Friday, December 5, from 4:30-8:30 p.m. (after that, daily tours run Tuesday through Friday from 9:30 to 11:00 a.m.). Guests and staff alike eagerly look forward to the Candlelight Tour, which features caroling around the piano, Christmas cookies, and hot chocolate. The task of preparing that hot chocolate and cookies for around 900 Candlelight Tour visitors falls to Mansion Chef Matt Huffman. Huffman starts making the dough for ginger-
bread, chocolate chip, and Mississippi-shaped sugar cookies two days in advance. Luckily, baked goods and pastries are among Chef Huffman’s favorite things to cook--something he attributes to his grandmother’s influence from childhood, when she taught him to make pies. During his culinary studies at Johnston and Wales, Huffman did her legacy proud when he won a scholarship for pastry.
Working in tandem with Gee, Huffman also maps out the rest of the busy holiday calendar, during which the Mansion hosts lunch, dinner, and receptions on an almost daily basis. In preparing the menu for these events, the chef keeps things seasonal with “as much local, Southern fare as possible.” That includes signature items like a pimento cheese with roasted peppers and a blend of cheeses that remains a crowd favorite year-to-year and an eggnog mousse with cinnamon whipped cream. Notwithstanding some innovative twists, he laughs, “There’s [still] lots of cookies, pimento cheese, and chicken salad.” Chef Huffman enjoys cooking for holiday receptions eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39
Pecan Wood-grilled Prime Bone-in Filet of Beef with Rosemary Demi-glace Truffle Mashed Potatoes and Sautéed Asparagus
Key Lime Tarts because canapes and bite-sized items give him a chance to “play around a bit” and incorporate nods to some of his culinary mentors. A Morrocan-rubbbed chicken satay shows the influence of Chef Luis Bruno and Su Kennedy, from whom he learned Thai cuisine, while fried chicken on a stick with comeback sauce reflects his Mississippi roots, and a blue cheese and wine-poached pear with fig preserves is a popular sweet-and-savory combination. Gee and Huffman know the importance of friends and family gatherings at the Mansion, and one in particular brings together a special extended Mansion family: the annual Docent Luncheon. Docents at the Mansion serve on a volunteer basis, giving tours and sharing their extensive knowledge of the home’s history year-round. Each Christmas, they come to 40 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
the Mansion for a formal luncheon. “They’re experts [on the Mansion] who have done this a long time, so we always want to at least match the experience of last year’s meal and exceed their expectations,” says Gee. Chef Huffman adds that the two-course meal presents a challenge because of the relatively large number of docents, but insists it’s a fun one because he enjoys getting to thank them for their service. And after all the parties are over, what will the Governor and First Lady enjoy for Christmas dinner with their family? Chef Huffman actually doesn’t know. In the true spirit of being home for the holidays, he is given the day off to enjoy with his wife and children while the First Family (assisted by the First Lady’s mother) cooks Christmas dinner themselves. edm
Chef Matt Huffman
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41
Mississippi Governor’s Mansion Pimento & Cheese Yields approximately 1 quart 3 cups cheddar shredded, extra sharp white 2 cups cheddar shredded, mild yellow 1/2 cup roasted red peppers, minced 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1/2 teaspoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon hot sauce Salt and pepper to taste In the bowl of a food processor, pulse cheeses 5-6 times or grate fine. In a large mixing bowl, add cheeses, peppers, mayonnaise, and seasonings. Mix well and store refrigerated in an air-tight container for a week. Serve with crackers or assorted vegetables, or make a sandwich.
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photo provided
Mississippi Governor’s Mansion Sugar Cookies Yields 6 dozen 2 ½ inch cookies 6 cups all purpose flour 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon fine salt 1 pound butter, unsalted and room temp 2 cups sugar, granulated or 1 cup Splenda 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons milk Powdered sugar for rolling dough
Sift flour, baking powder, and salt. In a mixer with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. On low speed add eggs and milk mixing until well blended. Add flour in three batches until it is pulling away from sides of bowl. Divide dough in half and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Roll dough out to ¼ inch thickness using powdered sugar to dust the board. Cut with desired cutter and bake at 350 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes or until light brown.
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{ in the bloglight }
story by kelsey wells | photos provided
Professor Uses Blogging to Impact People, Share Delicious Creations
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rofessor Julie May is a Louisiana native who has called Mississippi her home for the past 17 ½ years. Growing up in a family whose times together revolved around food, she learned the principles of cooking from an early age. “There were always parts of a recipe that were appropriate for little hands, so in that way, you really just grew up learning along the way,” she said. May earned her doctorate from the University of Southern Mississippi. After postdoctoral training, she became a professor in the Department of Biological Sciences at William Carey University in Hattiesburg. A busy mom of a blended family with a total of six children, May learned to make quick, easy and tasty meals between helping with homework and chauffeuring children to and from sports and band practices. Her friends noticed her talent for cooking and asked her to share the recipes. Thus her blog, "Menu Musings," was born. She never expected the blog to be such a success, as it now is approaching the 8 million views mark. A cookbook with the same title as the blog has also been published. “They [readers] loved the fact that I had 'regular' and 'real' recipes on there, and that there were photos for them to follow. They didn't really want 'fancy' recipes that a chef would necessarily make. They just wanted to know how to cook regular meals that their families would enjoy,” said May. May's recipes that she shares on her blog vary greatly not only in types of food, but also in preparation time. Though she stays busy with her professorship, she still places a great emphasis on family. She shares easy recipes that can be cooked and served in a matter of minutes, but also shares special recipes requiring more time for preparation that she cooks on the weekends or on special occasions and holidays. Step by step pictures illustrate the directions for the recipes, and many show her children participating in the preparation. “I absolutely love it when readers tell me that they feel like they are cooking in the kitchen with me,” she said. With her work in the biological sciences, May is not only passionate about cooking, but also about understanding recipe ingredients. She is also health conscious. Many of her blog posts include Food Nerd Notes, which explain more about the origins of the dish and its ingredients. Having been 44 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Julie May brought up on rich Southern meals, she also looks for ways to make these traditionally high calorie, high fat meals a bit lighter and healthier. “I feel like the cuisine of the South is some of the best in the world, but some of the traditional preparation methods could be tweaked...in a healthier way,” said May. An avid traveler in her free time, May loves visiting other cultures and returning home with new recipe ideas. Her posts feature many dishes from other countries in addition to Southern fare. The quote that hangs in her kitchen inspires May to continue her work in blogging. It partially reads, “The purpose of life is to be useful.” “I take it day by day and leave the rest in God's hands,” she said. “As long as my heart is in it for the right reasons...I feel like it will continue to be successful.” edm www.menumusings.blogspot.com
Prosciutto and Gruyere Stuffed Chicken Breasts 1 package of skinless, boneless chicken breasts Thinly sliced prosciutto, 1 - 2 slices per chicken breast Gruyere cheese, cut into wide sticks about 1/2 inch wide (like a large french fry) Seasonings of your choice - kosher salt, black pepper, dried basil and oregano, Italian seasoning, garlic powder 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) Jarred vodka sauce (or pasta sauce of your choice) Fresh basil for garnish Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice open the chicken breasts ALMOST to the other side. Lie them flat and pound them out flat, as evenly as you can. Season the chicken with spices. Go easy on the salt, as the prosciutto and the cheese are fairly salty. Go heavier on the other seasonings. Roll the prosciutto around a piece of Gruyere, then place it along one end of the breast. Roll the breast around the prosciutto/Gruyere, and secure with toothpicks. You may choose to also season the outside of the meat. Add a couple of tablespoons of EVOO to a heavy skillet.
Once the oil is really hot, carefully add the chicken breasts. It should immediately start sizzling if the oil is hot enough. Once you place the chicken, do NOT attempt to move them. They will release once they get a beautiful, golden brown sear on them. Using long handled kitchen tongs, turn the chicken to sear on all sides. Remove from heat. NOTE - the chicken is NOT cooked yet!! Add some prepared sauce over the top of the chicken. I added about 1/2 jar of Mario Batali's Vodka Sauce over mine. Insert a digital thermometer into the middle of the thickest breast you have, then pop them into the oven until they reach 160 degrees. That took about 20 minutes for my chicken - but I love using the digital thermometer that beeps when it reaches the correct temperature, because that allows me to turn my focus onto other things. Then my chicken is cooked properly, without over baking and drying it out. Remove from the oven and allow the chicken to rest. I would say at least 5 minutes. Slice into thick pinwheels and garnish with freshly chopped basil ribbons. Serve with a little extra sauce that we baked it in from the pan. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45
M
{ raise your glass }
Holiday Cheer
photography by christina foto
S
pread the holiday cheer from Christmas to New Year's and beyond with these perfectly crafted cocktails from local mixologists. Enjoy the last few days of fall with an "Autumn in Indianola." Sipping a "Hot Buttered Rye" by a roaring fire on a cold winter's night will surely get you in the holiday spirit while the bubbly, aromatic "Nutcracker" is a twist on a classic that will help you ring in the New Year. And, the "VooDoo HooDoo" and "The Erin" are sure to impress guests at any holiday cocktail party. edm
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The Erin by Brian Brown, The Manship Wood Fired Kitchen in Jackson
1-1/4 ounces Cathead Pecan Vodka 1/2 ounce St. Germaine 1/2 ounce lemon juice 2 dashes of Spanish bitters Garnish with orange or lemon twist.
M The Erin
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47
The Nutcracker by Steven O'Neill, The Manship Wood Fired Kitchen in Jackson
1/4 ounce Nocello Walnut Liqueur 1 ounce Cathead Pecan Vodka Champagne Pour liqueur and vodka in glass. Finish filling the glass with champagne. Garnish with cinnamon stick or cranberry.
Voodoo Hoodoo by Brian Brown, The Manship Wood Fired Kitchen in Jackson
1-1/4 ounces of tequila 1/2 ounce Campari 1/2 ounce lemon juice 1/2 ounce grenadine 1/2 ounce agave nectar 1/2 ounce Hoodoo Chickory Liqueur 3/4 ounce pineapple juice Garnish with flat lemon peel.
M VooDoo HooDoo
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M The Nutcracker
M Autumn in Indianola
Autumn in Indianola by Steven O'Neill, The Manship Wood Fired Kitchen in Jackson
1-1/2 ounces Cathead Honeysuckle Vodka 1/3 ounce Four Roses Bourbon 1/8 ounce lemon juice 1/8 Yellow Chartreuse liqueur 1/4 Amarula Creme Liqueur 4 drops of cherry bark bitters Garnish with lemon twist.
Hot Buttered Rye by Stephen Wade, the Strawberry Cafe in Madison
1/2 ounce rye whiskey (Knob Creek suggested) 1 ounce ginger liqueur 5 ounces hot water Top with 1 cup of Heavy Cream Maple Mix. Garnish with nutmeg.
Heavy Cream Maple Mix Whip 2 ounces of heavy cream and 2 ounces of maple syrup until the consistency is like hot butter. Chill for 24 hours.
M Hot Buttered Rye
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49
{ from mississippi to beyond }
Mizz’ipi Sistah Chefs Down-Home Cooking in Portland By Kathy K. Martin | photos provided
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elinda Sandifer dishes up all of her Southern comfort food traditions to feed clients in her new home in Portland, Oregon. As owner and executive chef of Mizz’ipi Sistah Chefs, she specializes in catering home-style meals with a healthier, lighter flair. The name for her business comes from her mom’s unique way of talking about Melinda and her two sisters and their Southern upbringing, calling them Mizz’ipi sistahs. “My mother brought all of her Southern traditions with her to Portland and she instilled those values in my sisters and me at a very young age, from going out in the field picking fruit and vegetables to canning, cooking, tasting meals, and baking desserts.” One of Melinda’s chores as a child was helping fix dinner, which she says always consisted of an entrée such as fried chicken or chicken and dumplings, two sides and a dessert. “I often had to make the potato salad before I could go play outside with my friends.” Originally from Prentiss, Mississippi and part of the Magee family, Melinda’s mother, Mazell Rudder, moved to Portland when she was pregnant with Melinda. As Melinda grew up, she watched her older sister, Brenda, become a chef at Eduardo’s Restaurant in the Red Lion Hotel in Portland during the 80s and 90s. Her other sister, Beverly, worked with Melinda later at Mizz’ipi Sistah Chefs, but then decided to continue her medical career. “I was raised with all the Southern values by my mom, who taught us to cook at a young age. I enjoyed it then and I still enjoy it now.” She decided to pursue a career in professional cooking about 25 years ago and worked for hotels, caterers and restaurants in Seattle, Houston and Atlanta. She and her mother moved back to Mississippi in 2004, and Melinda worked as a chef at the Beau Rivage Hotel & Casino in Biloxi before Hurricane Katrina hit. When the disaster forced them to move again in 2005, she left with fond memories of the Southern menu items such as seafood gumbo and shrimp 50 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
étouffée. “The things I miss the most are the fresh seafood such as crab, shrimp and snapper and my mom’s chicken and dumplings.” As a women, minority and emerging small businesscertified company, Melinda’s mobile catering and personal chef business makes Portland its home today. She describes Portland as a diverse city, but not too trendy. Many of her clients are interested in gluten-free and vegetarian dishes as they become more and more health-conscious, she said. Melinda serves these special dietary needs with dishes she calls “downhome, delicious, light and tasty.” Some of her offerings include Andouille sausage wrapped in puff pastry, seafood gumbo, eggplant napoleons and Cajun turkey breast, as well as Vietnamese pork with Jasmine rice and ginger bok choy. She says, “The aspect of customizing our menus to diversify makes Mizz’ipi Sistah Chefs stand out on our own.” Her desserts are also available in low-calorie, sugar-free and glutenfree, while still preserving that classic Southern flavor. Some of her most-requested dishes are smoked brisket, Mediterranean chicken, Caribbean chicken and blackened tilapia with all of the fixings such as rice, lentils, greens and cornbread. Favorite desserts include sweet potato pie, peach cobbler, lemon meringue pie and lemon squares. When Melinda cooks at home, she prepares what she calls basic foods such as baked chicken, roast and stew. “I can just throw it in the oven and let it cook,” she says, “And when it’s done, it’s very tender.” She admits that she eats much healthier now by preparing foods low in carbohydrates and sugars and baking or roasting instead of frying. Melinda rents a shared commercial kitchen right now, but she hopes to one day cook from her own kitchen and hire employees to help her operate her own storefront. Portland gets a big helping of Southern cuisine from this Mizz’ipi Sistah. edm
Blackened Tilapia 7 ounces tilapia 1 ounce blackened seasoning Season tilapia with blackened seasoning. Pan sear in a cast iron skillet on both sides until it has a black, but not burned coating.
Blackened Seasoning 2 tablespoons paprika 1 tablespoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon regano Black pepper 1 tablespoon granulated garlic 1 tablespoon granulated onion 1 teaspoon cayenne 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon lemon pepper Mix all ingredients together. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51
Sweet Potato Pound Cake 3 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 3 sticks of butter 2-1/2 cups sugar 2 cups cooked, fresh sweet potatoes 2 cups sour cream 2 tablespoons orange flavoring 2 teaspoons orange zest 6 eggs Caramel glaze Chopped pecans, optional Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease and flour a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan. Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside. In large mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add mashed sweet potatoes, sour cream, orange 52 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
flavoring, and orange zest. Beat until well blended. Add eggs, one at a time (the batter will look curdled). Add flour mixture to potato mixture. Beat on low until combined. Pour batter into pan. Bake for about 1 hour and 20 minutes, or until a wooden toothpick inserted into cake comes out clean. Cool cake for 20 minutes in the pan, then invert onto serving plate. Pour caramel glaze over warm cake and sprinkle with chopped pecans, if desired.
Caramel Glaze 2 cups sugar 1/4 cup of heavy cream In a medium sauce pan over medium heat, melt the sugar by stirring continually until brown. Once brown, add the heavy cream, whisking very fast while adding, until blended to a creamy consistency. Pour on the warm cake.
{ from the bookshelf }
Pizza: A Slice of American History Author: Liz Barrett | Publisher: Voyageur Press by kelsey wells
For many, pizza is a go-to fast food for those nights when they do not have time or just do not want to cook. It's an easy, mobile, tasty meal that can combine carbohydrates, proteins, vegetables and dairy into a single product, and children are known to have a love for this tasty treat. But for others, pizza is so much more than a Tuesday night meal. Pizza has its own unique history and tells its story through multiple styles, which are vastly varied but all delectable. Liz Barrett explores the history, styles, and ingredients of pizza in a new, delicious volume entitled Pizza: A Slice of American History. Barrett is the founder of EatingOxford.com, which highlights the cuisine, restaurants and chefs of this quaint college town. The site has been named the top ranking food blog in Mississippi and is a three-time winner of “best website” in local reader polls. Barrett also serves as editor-at-large of PMQ Pizza Magazine, which is based in Oxford and serves as one of only two pizza magazine publications in the country. Barrett begins her journey into pizza with the history of pizza, which dates back as early as early as 79 A.D. Though pizza entered the United States through Italian-Americans who baked it in their homes, the food did not become popular throughout the country until the 1950s. After an explosion in popularity about this time, chain restaurants and family-owned businesses developed on the culinary scene, with many remaining today. Americans have created numerous variations of the original pizza, creating a food that is as American as apple pie. Next, Barrett discusses the different styles of pizza, beginning with the original Neapolitan style that Italians brought to America in the 1800s. This style has recently seen a resurgence in popularity and is available across the country. Other pizza styles introduced throughout the book and discussed in detail are Tomato Pie, New Haven, Sicilian, Grandma, DeepDish, Detroit, St. Louis and California. Styles are paired with mouthwatering recipes, photographs, and descriptions that make each style distinct from the rest. A section on each style of pizza “outside its natural habitat” refers readers to pizzerias across the country where they can indulge in that particular style. One chapter is dedicated to short descriptions of other styles which have played a role in pizza's popularity. However, Barrett doesn't stop with styles of pizza. Chap-
ters on sauces and spices, crusts, and cheeses are included, along with interesting insights into the terminology that pizza masters use for their products and techniques. Pizza has played a crucial role in American cuisine and culture since its rise in popularity. Barrett recognizes this influence with fun extras like a quiz on pizza's role in movies, two pages of references to pizza in the news, a chapter on the rise of chain pizza restaurants and references to the increasingly technologically-advanced ways of ordering and receiving pizza. Also, she includes a chapter about sides such as wings, cheese sticks, beverages, and desserts that have become synonymous with pizza night in America. On a more serious note, she discusses the blame that dieters often place on pizza, stressing the necessity of choosing healthier ingredients and moderation for those who are watching their weight, but still wish to indulge in their favorite treat. Witty quotes by authors and other celebrities bring this book into an American icon full circle. Liz Barrett, through dedicated research and a unique perspective, has transformed a simple meal into a delightful lesson in history and the culinary arts through this new volume. Pizza is available for purchase through www.voyageurpress.com, www.amazon. com and wherever books and ebooks are sold. edm
pizza sauce 28 ounce can high-quality crushed tomatoes 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Pinch of red pepper flakes Minced or sliced garlic cloves, to taste Whatever other herbs you'd like to add (fresh herbs taste best) Mix all ingredients and set aside. To allow flavors to develop, you can make the sauce ahead and place in the fridge overnight. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53
The Last of the Perfect Trees by janette tibbetts
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ather always found the tree. I never heard Mother tell him to and I never dared ask why. But without warning on any given clear, crisp afternoon when I stepped off the school bus, he would be waiting with saw in hand and twinkling eyes telling me the season had arrived. Father was an enormous person in many ways. When I attempt to tell friends about him now, I always start with his physical size: "He was 6-foot 4 and weighed nearly 300 hundred pounds." Some members of our family say he wasn't quite that tall nor that stout, but they don't remember him as well as I. All I know is that when I got off the school bus and he was waiting for me with the saw, Father was a giant. Wearing a mackinaw over his overalls, he looked as I pictured Paul Bunyan. However, his timing was not consistent. Some years the tree-search occurred the first week of December, but I can remember that on occasions the hunt was staged only a mere week in advance of the celebration. When the latter was the case, I began to feel extremely uneasy. My favorites where the times he surprised me by going for the tree weeks in advance. A real status symbol was associated with those who could boast at school of being the first in the room to put up a tree. As I grew older I realized why he chose to surprise us in this way. With farm prices what they were, there were few other surprises he could afford. We usually rode into the pasture on the cub tractor with the trailer hitched behind it and then walked deep into the woods. Father always led the way, through the briars, branches and back forties until I thought I could walk no farther. Then after circling back toward the waiting tractor and trailer, we always seemed to find the most magnificent tree in all the world - perfect in every way, fluffy full branches, and sturdy top! I never ceased to be amazed at the tree Father was able to locate after such a tiring search. In all those years, he never failed to find a perfect tree, and it never occurred to me to be suspicious that he had already spotted and pruned the tree months in advance. Back home, decorating the tree was a family project with Mother leaving the kitchen long enough to supervise. We covered it with the precious glass ornaments carefully stored from past years, tinsel, and tin-foil icicles. After all the decorations had been placed on the tree, Father made the five-point star for the top by cutting folded paper. Sister painted the star bright red and my tallest brother placed the beautiful star at tree-top. Then we all returned to the kitchen with Mother
54 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
where we competed over who would help measure the flour and sugar, and who would scrape the bowls and lick the spoons while Mother was busy with her baking. She taught us respect there in her kitchen for each other's rights and set the example for moral character, with a special reverence for the truth. These principles that flowed from her heart are so indelibly stamped in my mind along with the marvelous aromas that rose from her oven that even now it is hard for me to think of good character without thinking of good food. Therefore, when I catch a whiff of a fresh coconut cake baking, I associate it with the things Mother always taught. Nor have I forgotten the way Father showed us how to open a hole in the eyes of a coconut and carefully drain its milk into Mother's measuring cup. Because we knew Mother would need a full cup of milk to bake the cake, we watched anxiously as the milk slowly dribbled down into the cup. When it quit dripping Mother usually said, "I'll add enough cream to make do." Father cracked the large nut, removed it from the shell, peeled the black husk away and tediously grated it while being careful that not one speck of dark husk fell into the snow-white meat. Years passed and my brothers went away to college. Next to enroll was my sister. Lastly, I became a student at Millsaps. Then, we were all married and had homes and families of our own. But we always returned to the farm for Christmas with our parents to enjoy the special trees, the unmatched cuisine, and to share the traditions with our own children. Eventually we were faced with having our first Christmas without our father. Uppermost in our grieved hearts was to make it as easy as possible for Mother. She insisted on her traditional days in the kitchen baking for the holidays. Knowing that without the master hunter the search through the woods would be too painful, we convinced her to purchase a tree. We survived the painful season that would never be the same. Without real joy, we were relieved when the day was over and the first sad, store-bought tree was discarded. Several months afterwards, I was walking with my young family in the woods on the old farm place. Spring was coming and with it a bit of hope and many crow'sfoot violets we delighted in picking. Without warning, there it was in a hollow at the edge of the clearing - perfect in every way, fluffy full branches, and sturdy top! The underbrush had been cleared from
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55
around it. Underneath lay small dead twigs that had been trimmed away to make it even and balanced ... for our Christmas trees never had a back and front. Then I knew! The years since have turned into decades and my children are grown as are my grandchildren. But since that spring and through the busy years, I have always made the pilgrimage back to those woods. It might
During the years we were growing up on a Jones County farm, I recall that only on two occasions we received enough snow to cover and stay on the ground for a few days. However, we were impressed enough with those brief white-outs to refer to Mother's Coconut Cake as being a
be in the fall or on a warm summer day when I stretch out on the soft moss growing under the now large tree, but when there I always celebrate an old- fashioned Christmas, where truth and fairness emits the aroma of a fresh coconut cake and a Santa dressed in overalls always brings a perfect tree. edm
snow cake. Moreover, because only the whites of the eggs were ingredients for the cake, standard fare for breakfast the next morning was the dozen plus egg yolks mixed with sweet cream and steamed in fresh butter.
Mother's Snow White Coconut Cake Makes 2 nine-inch cakes. Mother stacked and presented this cake as a 4-layer cake. However she never doubled the recipe to yield 4 cakes. She always made two batches. She said with the coconut added to the batter, it would be too difficult to keep the coconut equally divided between 4 pans. Although I have drained and shredded fresh coconut to show my children and grandchildren the method, like most other chefs, I now purchase canned coconut milk and fresh frozen coconut. 6 egg whites 1/2 cup Crisco shortening 1/2 cup sweet butter 3 cups Swans Down Cake Flour (measured before sifting) 4 teaspoons of baking powder 2 cups white granulated sugar 1 cup coconut milk 1/2 cup whipping cream 2 teaspoons of coconut extract 1/2 cup grated frozen coconut (thaw coconut before mixing) Fluffy Snow Coconut Frosting
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour two round 9-inch cake pans. Line pans with parchment paper, then butter and flour paper. Separate eggs and place whites in large bowl. Set aside. Place shortening and butter in large mixing bowl and cream until mixed. Add 1-1/2 cups of sugar to mixture and continue to cream. In third bowl, sift flour and baking powder together two times. Pour coconut milk, whipping cream, and coconut extract together and mix. To the creamed butter and sugar, add 1/4 cup of sifted flour alternately with 1/4 cup of liquids until all is well mixed. Add grated coconut and stir. Beat egg whites until peaks begin to form. While still beating, add remaining 1/2 cup sugar to egg whites by sprinkling it into the egg whites only 1 tablespoon at a time. With large wooden spoon gently fold meringue into cake batter. Do not mix as it will deflate the meringue. Divide batter between two 9-inch pans. Bake 25-30 minutes. Cool 10 minutes before inverting on wire rack. Completely cool before stacking and frosting. Spread frosting and sprinkle coconut between layers.
Fluffy Snow Coconut Frosting 1 cup sugar 3 egg whites 1 pinch salt 2 teaspoons coconut extract 1 cup fresh frozen coconut Combine sugar, egg whites and salt in top of double boiler. Do not allow the water to reach to bottom of the top boiler. Beat with a hand-held electric mixer while cooking over high heat. (My mother stood over her double boiler 56 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
and beat the frosting ingredients with an old hand-beater.) Cook until peaks form and hold. Remove from heat and add coconut extract. Continue to beat until frosting holds when spread on cake. Frost cake. Press coconut to sides of cake. Sprinkle top with coconut. If you are able to make yourself wait, it is best to allow our heirloom cake to set 1 hour before slicing.
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DeltaCleveland Meat Market -
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Kermit's Outlaw Kitchen Tupelo
The Hills The Delta -
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The Strawberry Cafe -
TheWinona Tracks The Pines
Madison
Capital/River
Our wonderful state is divided into five travel regions - The Hills, The Delta, The Pines, Capital/River, and Coastal. It is our goal to give equal coverage to all regions of the state in every issue. The following sections are color coded by region for your convenience. We hope you will take the time and travel to all regions to take advantage of the diverse culinary styles present throughout our state. We do suggest that you call to verify operating hours before visiting any of these wonderful establishments.
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Cannel l a Bay St. Louis
Coastal
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57
The Hills
Food With Soul Kermit's Outlaw Kitchen is bringing the farm to the table in Tupelo. story and photography by katie hutson west
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ith its Main Street doors open going on two years, Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen (KOK) has brought a fresh, farm-to-table taste to Tupelo’s beautiful, historic downtown. A unique atmosphere and menu puts KOK in a category all its own and takes dining out to a whole new level. Owned and operated by Seth Copeland of Tupelo and Mitch McCamey of Okolona, Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen is the second restaurant the duo has brought to Elvis’ birthplace. The Neon Pig, a downhome butcher shop and deli, cures some of the best meat and cooks up some of the best burgers around. Both chefs studied food from all over the country and learned a top chef mentality – great food starts with great ingredients. “It’s a circle and the restaurant gives out what it puts in…we’re big on the quality of life here,” McCamey says of his team, who shucks convenience and goes for food with more “soul.” With a belief that the best foods grow here, McCamey and Copeland aim to take it straight from the Mississippi farm to the Mississippi table. Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen derived its name from Kermit’s Bakery, a made-everything-from-scratch local
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treasure that displayed grand wedding cakes in the front window of what is now KOK from the 1930’s to the 1980’s. Situated on historic Main Street, KOK is just a short stroll from Tupelo Hardware, the place Elvis bought his first guitar. Winner of the 2013 Award of Merit for Interior Design (Downtown Tupelo Main Street Association), Kermit’s has an exposed brick interior, an open kitchen so diners can catch all the action live, and local paintings of infamous outlaws lining the walls. The offerings at Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen and Neon Pig are made of ingredients from farms all over the state. Tomatoes are from Mayhew Farm in West Point, coffee roasted by My Brother’s Cup in Shannon, and grits ground by Grit Girl in Oxford. Magnificent fruits and vegetables are supplied year round by Memory Orchard in Tupelo. Cheese is one of the few things not of Mississippi, coming from the cows at Sweet Grass Dairy in Georgia with types such as Greenhill, Asher Blue, and Thomasville Tomme. Hogs hail from Billy Ray’s Farm in Oxford (son of Mississippi author, Larry Brown). Buddy Ward and Son’s provides the freshest seafood: fish, crab, oysters, and more; with as much
The Hills
Chef Andrew Christian works with fresh ingredients from local farms. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 59
The Hills
Charcuterie & Cheese Plate - Brown's Dairy pork belly, pork prosciutto, Sweet Grass Dairy's Asher Blue and Thomasville Tomme
as possible coming from the Mississippi Gulf Coast. “If you don’t support them, they won’t be there,” says McCamey of the importance of purchasing from Mississippi’s small farms. The menu at Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen is ever-changing and continues to accommodate more and more local ingredients. “We’ve been in the process of getting local butter for over a year,” McCamey says of their recent deal. The freshest ingredients can be found in deliciously Southern appetizers like the Bread and Butter Basket (Progress Milk Barn Dairy butter and house made black eyed pea cornbread) and the Okra Basket (fried okra and eggplant with house made green onion aioli). The Charcuterie and Cheese Plate is an excellent choice with tender, perfectly seasoned meats straight from the Neon Pig and flavorful, Sweet Grass Dairy cheeses; all of which can be purchased by the pound. The team at Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen strives to be the best and puts their all into preparing memorable meals. Beef, pork, and fresh-never-frozen seafood is paired with in-season vegetables and cooked to perfection by chefs who care about every little thing that goes on the plate. Unique sweets are a must at Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen. Pies are made with fresh, seasonal ingredients;, creating a mix of flavors that are surprising and delicious. Cocktails and potions are created at KOK as well and also change with the sea60 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
sons, like the Blackberry Smoke or Pumpkin Spice Martini. Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen boasts a wide array of Mississippi craft beers, too. Open Monday – Saturday for lunch and evenings Thursday – Saturday, Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen always offers something new and fresh. Brunch is the first Sunday of the month and is known for its one-of-a-kind menu, including Elvis Pancakes (homemade pancakes covered in peanut butter, honey, bananas, and whipped cream). Reservations at The Kitchen are recommended. Copeland and McCamey want to share their goods with more than just the folks of Tupelo. “We plan on opening a Neon Pig in Oxford next year and Columbus the year after that,” Copeland says of the exciting things to come in the future. With a team that strives to do good things for its community, a unique, ever-changing menu, and food that is fresh, local, and tasteful, Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen is a Tupelo restaurant that brings the farm to the table and something different and special to downtown. edm Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen 124 W. Main St., Tupelo 662.620.6622
The Hills
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP - Open kitchen with front row seating; Upstairs dining. Pie Trio - Pumpkin Pie with basil apple butter, shaved chocolate, preserved lemon salt and fried basil; Buttermilk Pie; and Crack Pie. Hot Chicken - Zion Farm's chicken, squash casserole, celery slaw, lemongrass pickles, cornbread, and husked corn.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61
The Delta
Meat & Greet
Pecan-smoked Pork Chop with Delta Blues Rice Grits and Roasted Brussels Sprouts 62 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
The Delta
Delta Meat Market in Cleveland is more than just a meat market. STORY AND photography by coop cooper a.k.a. the small town critic
I
n the growing Delta college town of Cleveland, a downtown butcher shop has recently caused a stir amongst those who appreciate the unique and interesting. Cleveland native Cole Ellis established the Delta Meat Market on North Sharpe Street a year ago. A culinary arts graduate, Ellis spent six years in Charleston, South Carolina perfecting his skills as a chef. While there, he met “The love of his life,” Mary Tatum Ellis of Jackson, Tenn. The couple relocated to Nashville, Tenn. for seven years until they learned they had a 'little one' on the way. This revelation initiated a move closer to home, which brought Ellis and his family back to Cleveland. After settling in, Ellis set up shop in a former Hallmark gift shop and transformed the space into a meat market with a twist. “I wanted to do a local grocery store where you can find ingredients not normally found on the shelves... We don't throw around the term 'fresh market,' but we have a variety of things that resemble Whole Foods-style stores,” says Ellis. “And it's a functioning, full-service butcher shop with homemade charcuterie and specialty cuts of meat and poultry and fish and all kinds of different stuff.” A few months ago, Ellis began hosting a dinner on Fridays, which has been dubbed the 'Happy Hour,' with live music, craft beers, and a gourmet meal. It started out with Ellis and his staff holding open houses to give out samples of food to the public. Soon after, it evolved into a weekly event that draws anywhere from fifty to seventy people per night. “Happy Hour is like an all-ages, family-friendly kind of thing. There's no pretentious service here. It's sometimes 'help yourself ' if I feel like it. We're a very laid-back environment and we're just trying to have fun after a long week,” says Ellis. The Friday menu features a three-course, fixed-
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63
The Delta
Cole, Lottie, and Mary Tatum Ellis menu dinner with appetizer, entrée, and dessert. On a recent visit, the appetizer consisted of a salad of seasonal mixed lettuces, cucumbers, picked herbs, lemon vinaigrette, heirloom carrots, colored beets, and baguette croutons along with a butternut squash soup with sassafras reduction, Georgia olive oil, toasted pecans, and crème fraiche. The main course included a choice of either pecan wood-smoked, red waddle pork chop with Delta Blues Rice grits, roasted Brussels sprouts in a brown sugar/bacon sauce, or a butter poached Gulf flounder with celery root purée, turnips, heirloom carrots, and beurre monté. For dessert, Ellis offered a cinnamon roll made with toffee, caramel, and bourbon, topped with Delta Dairy pumpkin fro-yo. The shop has been offering a fixed lunch menu for a year now and has yet to serve the same dish twice. Next month will be the one-year anniversary of the lunch service and regulars will be encouraged to suggest their favorite, past lunch dish for Ellis to recreate during that month. Ellis also has plans to expand the schedule to include special, reservation-only, bi-monthly dinner nights. Amongst the items on display in the store are bags of 'Delta Blues Rice' milled by David Arant (and family) in Drew. Ellis likes to grind this rice into grits and cook it with a little butter and a whiskey au jus to serve as a side in his meals. The shop also features local, artisan items such as olive oils, drinking vinegars, mustards, hot sauces, chips, grains, nuts, seeds, cheeses, produce, trinkets, and even Moon Pies. In addition to the Delta Blues Rice, Ellis specializes in obtaining food and ingredients from local sources. For instance, his baked goods (like the cinnamon rolls) come from the local Mennonite community and his frozen treats originate from an ice cream shop around the corner named Delta Dairy. Using local ingredients is as important to Ellis as setting up shop close to his roots in Cleveland. “It's a tie to home. I always wanted to be back in the Delta and raise my kids in the way I was raised. That's part of it and 64 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
another part is there is room for growth here,” says Ellis. “The Grammy museum's around the corner. There's a college here. I don't see it going anywhere other than up. This is a growing Delta city and we want to embrace that.” In the back of the shop, a staffed beverage counter serves a variety of beers with several standard favorites, but what really stands out is the well-stocked refrigerator, full of bottled craft beers. Next to the fridge stands six taps, ready to pour fresh, high-gravity imports and local microbrews served in clear-glass mason jars. For the kids (and the I'm-not-readyfor-a-beer crowd), the beverage area does offer a variety of Cokes, Orange Nehi, and other classic, non-alcoholic sodas. Plus, customers are welcome to bring in their own wine (no corking fee). “We're not just a meat market. We use that term to draw people from near and far. Good meat is one thing that's hard to source here in the Mississippi Delta. The name is used to draw people in, to show them what we've got. We're more than just a meat market. We're live music, we're a place to grab a great craft beer, a place to grab a quick bite for lunch,” says Ellis. The Friday evening crowd includes locals, with kids in tow, sitting around and relaxing as the live, three-piece bluegrass band plays. Anticipating the big dinner to come, they sip on drinks and chat over snacks and appetizers while watching the sun set from the large, storefront windows. The pleasant atmosphere is exactly how Ellis had described it. “This is a community-supported venture,” says Ellis. “We can't do it without everyone and hopefully, one day, everyone can't do without us.” edm Delta Meat Market 118 North Sharpe St., Cleveland 662.444.6328 www.deltameatmarket.com
The Delta
Butter Poached Flounder
Cinnamon Roll with Pumpkin Fro-yo eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 65
The Pines
The Tracks is located in what used to be the train depot in the revitalized downtown Winona. Remnants of the tracks can be seen in the sidewalk in front of the restaurant.
Catch This Crazy Train Story and Photography by Jo Alice Darden
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onna Pearson’s parents owned a restaurant in Harrison, Arkansas, when she was growing up. She was often pressed into service when she wasn’t in school. “I did a little bit of everything there,” Donna said. “I thought I ran the place.” Almost three years ago, when she and her husband opened a restaurant in Winona called The Tracks, she had an awakening. “My parents did a lot more in that restaurant than I ever knew about,” she said. Donna and her husband, Greg, are both practicing registered nurses. They love to travel and were busy with thriving careers, their four sons, and their grandchildren. But Donna wanted an eatery she could “run” again. She said Greg thought she’d lost her mind, but he gave her $5,000; it was almost like a dare. “He didn’t know how much I could do with that $5,000,” Donna said. She leased space in the old train depot in downtown Winona, where an earlier restaurant had been. Donna doesn’t know how old the train station is, but assumes it was built shortly after the train tracks were laid in 1860, according to a 66 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
historic marker. The massive original ticket counter serves as a bar. The cushions on the bentwood chairs are covered in T-shirts of all varieties, donated by friends and protected by a clear plastic overlay. The curtains are dollar-a-yard burlap. Wall art consists mostly of local photos. The wainscoting in the restroom is aluminum foil. But the tabletops are the most eye-catching feature – they’re découpaged clippings, decades old, from the local newspaper. Tony Franks of Winona, a regular at The Tracks, said he was doing some remodeling in a house built in 1925 that included pulling up some ancient linoleum. “And what do you know?” he said. “Between the linoleum and the floorboards were pages of old newspapers, all perfectly preserved!” Franks gave those pages to The Tracks. Donna and friends cut the pages into clippings and découpaged them to the tables, creating an instant hit with local diners, who know where to look to find articles about their families. Developing the menu was the hardest task, Donna said. She decided to offer what she “grew up eating” in her parents’ restaurant – an array of homemade family favorites, seasonal features, daily specials and spectacular desserts.
The Pines
ABOVE - From the left, Greg and Donna Pearson, owners of The Tracks, and Becky Wammack, co-manager, at the bar in the back room of the restaurant. The long wooden bar started life as the ticket counter when the building was a train depot. RIGHT - The Crazy Train Burger, a lightly seasoned cheeseburger and a fried egg, both cooked to order, with bacon and all the fixin’s, is a work of art on a plate, especially when accompanied by a serving of onion rings.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 67
The Pines “Our menu has something for everybody,” said Becky Wammack of Sallis, a close friend of Donna’s who functions as co-manager. Donna and Becky like to visit restaurants all over the United States when they have time. Signature dishes include the Salad Sampler with pasta salad, broccoli salad, chicken salad and a garden salad with choice of dressing, all homemade; and the Shrimp Po-Boy with fried or grilled shrimp and homemade comeback sauce. And Donna said a customer from Louisiana called her Shrimp and Grits “the best.” Side dishes include onion rings, spicy fried green beans, zesty onion petals and fried and baked potatoes. Salads come with fried bread sticks with mozzarella cheese inside. One of the most popular dishes is the Crazy-Train Burger – a seasoned cheeseburger and the usual trimmings, with the additions of bacon and a fried egg on a specialty sourdough bun. With a side, it’s enough to satisfy the heartiest appetite. Almost everything is made from scratch, Donna said, and prices are quite affordable. With a staff of three in The Tracks’ tiny kitchen and only two wait staff, service is remarkably fast. Greg and Donna have been gratified that they’ve been able to serve even sports teams after games without delays. And nobody leaves The Tracks hungry. edm
c
The Tracks 100 C North Front Street, Winona 662.283.3505
Moon Pie Banana Pudding
6 chocolate Moon Pies, chopped 3 or 4 bananas, sliced 1 large package instant vanilla pudding mix 3 cups milk 1 (8-ounce) tub Cool Whip 1 (14-ounce) can Eagle brand milk 1 (8-ounce) package softened cream cheese In a large serving bowl, layer the chopped MoonPies and sliced bananas. In a separate large bowl, mix together thoroughly the remaining ingredients. Pour the mixture over MoonPies and bananas. Refrigerate. Serve cold.
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ABOVE - The Tracks offers its Shrimp Po-Boy with either fried or grilled shrimp. Side dish selections include onion petals and fried green beans, both spicy. RIGHT - Many of the cakes at The Tracks are made by a home baker in Winona. From left are a Reese’s Cake (with Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups crumbled on top), an iron-skillet caramel cake and an apple cake with salted caramel pecans crumbled on top. The Tracks also offers Joe Chips from the Jersey Shore – a rarity in Mississippi – and old-fashioned homemade pralines.
The Pines
BELOW - The Salad Sampler includes, clockwise from top, chicken salad (with grapes and nuts), garden salad (with choice of dressing), pasta salad and broccoli salad, all made from scratch.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 69
Capital/River
Mouthwatering Meals in Madison
Tuna and Sesame Salad
70 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Capital/River
Stephen Wade, Ashley Wade Bach, and Eric Bach
story by susan marquez photography by christina foto
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ospitality is a family affair for Stephen Wade, his sister, Ashley Wade Bach, and her husband, Eric Bach. The trio have all grown up around food, so it was a natural progression for them to team up to buy The Strawberry Café in Madison in 2005. “Ashley and I are originally from New Orleans,” explains Stephen. “Our parents were both excellent cooks and they put a home cooked meal on the table for us every night. From creole to Southern biscuits to traditional breakfasts, which we ate at night a lot, we’ve always been around food in that regard.” The siblings moved to Madison with their parents in the 1990's and spent their high school years at Madison-Ridgeland Academy. “I started bussing tables and running food in restaurants when I was 15,” Stephen says. “I went to college at Southern Miss and while in Hattiesburg, I managed Poboy Express as well as did some bartending. I moved back to the Jackson area to help open the Sportsman’s Grill in Maywood Mart.” That’s where he met Eric Bach, who grew up in Virginia in the shadow of Washington, D.C. “I moved to Spain as a teenager, and grew up eating all sorts of ethnic foods. I can’t remember eating my first Indian food, or Ethiopian food. It’s just always been a part of my life.” Eric went to college at Miseat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 71
Capital/River
Fried Green Tomatoes
sissippi State, and spent “a lot of years” in Starkville cooking food for others. While not formally trained, Eric has earned his stripes in kitchens all over. “My cooking today has a heavy Asian and Hispanic influence.” “We never stop thinking about food,” laughs Ashley. She, along with another pastry chef, make all of the restaurant’s desserts in-house daily. “We have all learned by doing.” The self-proclaimed foodies took a local café by the railroad tracks in Madison and radically transformed it into a beautiful white-tablecloth restaurant. They purchased The Strawberry Café in July 2005, and ended up doing the renovation work during the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. The restaurant opened its doors in late October that year. “We gutted and renovated the entire restaurant,” says Ashley. “We did most of the work ourselves.” Stephen adds that they had to learn to lay tile, hang drywall, and even paint the tall ceilings. The restaurant underwent another transformation in 2011. “We purchased the other side of the building, because we needed more space,” says Ashley. That time, they hired an architect. The once-open kitchen concept had to go, but a window in the hallway connecting the dining rooms gives patrons a peek inside the kitchen. “We didn’t want to lose that, so this was a good alternative,” says Stephen. The work took place in October and November 2011, and the restaurant reopened in late November. 72 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Today the restaurant seats 85 to 90 guests. There are two smaller dining rooms that can be used for overflow, or for private parties. The sliding barn doors can be opened to increase the size of rooms. While the restaurant has good business on any given night, the largest crowds come to the monthly beer or wine-pairing dinners. “We do a beer pairing dinner every other month, and the wine pairing dinner on alternate months,” explains Ashley. “They’ve been quite successful, and we have many repeat customers.” The beer pairing, which they call “Pints and Plates,” is a five-course dinner with selected beer pairings. Stephen writes the flavor profiles and Eric matches them with dishes he creates for the event. The Chef ’s Table dinner features seven courses with wines paired to each dish. “In that case, I build the menu first,” says Eric, “then Stephen chooses the wine to pair with each dish.” The wine pairing at the Chef ’s Table dinner is optional. The restaurant is open daily with both lunch and dinner served, except Sunday, when the restaurant features a Sunday brunch. “Our brunch is really wonderful,” says Ashley. “We offer bits and pieces of our lunch and dinner menu as well as specialty brunch items such as crab cake benedict, roast beef debris and poached eggs and gravy. We also serve $3 mimosas.” Eric loves to get creative in the kitchen, and his daily specials reflect that. “Sometimes I feel we serve our lunch and dinner menu for the privilege of doing specials! People like
Capital/River
sandwiches, so I make it my job to make a better sandwich that people will remember and come back for.” Ashley says that soups are something Eric really does well. “He makes the best cream of crab soup in Jackson, and that’s on the menu daily, but he also does a soup of the day, which can be French onion apple, butternut squash, chili on a cold day, and many more.” Eric smiles and says, “yeah, I’m real good at soup.” Some of the all-time menu favorites at The Strawberry Café include the Train Car Sandwich, Fried Green Tomatoes (served with lump crab meat and a creamy Hollandaise sauce), and General Tso’s Chicken. The most popular desserts are the caramel pie and cheesecake. The trio also run a thriving catering business. “We do fullservice catering,” says Ashley. “Christina Jenkins is our catering manager, and she does a great job coordinating corporate lunches, as well as social catering, including private parties, showers, and receptions. We also have a great tailgate menu and a full holiday catering menu. Honestly, we can cook just about anything.” Reservations, especially for dinner, are suggested. “We have a blast doing this,” says Eric. “We really have fun working together, and we’re proud of what we are doing here in Madison.” edm The Strawberry Café 107 Depot Dr., Madison 601.856.3822 www.strawberrycafemadison.com
Caramel Pie
Vanilla Bean Cheesecake with Chocolate Crust Quarter Greek Chicken
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 73
Coastal
Bay St. Louis eatery wows diners with German and Italian influences.
Europe
Imported Sausage and German Mustard
A Taste of
74 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Coastal story and photography by julian brunt
C
annella is as unique a restaurant as can be found on the Gulf Coast. When you walk in the door of this Bay St. Louis eatery and find that they offer German and Italian cuisine, you just might start to get the idea that you have arrived at someplace very special indeed. Have you ever seen these two completely different food styles come out of the same kitchen? But the plot thickens. The owners Toni and Roberto Zito are just as unique. Roberto is Sicilian, Toni is an American who spent years in Germany learning the language, culture, and, most importantly, the food. Together, Toni in the kitchen and Roberto in the front of the house, this incredible team offers a dining experience that you will not find anywhere else. Period. Lets stop here for a moment and let me make something very clear; the food that you are going to be served here is as authentic as you will ever find outside of Europe. Hands
down, from the cold beer to the schweinshaxe, from the schnitzel to the imported sausage, from the heavenly handmade-to-order cannoli to the pasta al forno. And please, do not forget the best espresso in this part of the world. It is equally as important to make sure you realize that this is not an Italian-American place. If you ask for meatballs and spaghetti you may very well be asked to leave. No kidding. Roberto, being the front man, is very proud of what his kitchen produces and expects his customers to be at least vaguely aware of what to expect. That is not to say that you will be welcomed with anything but a very warm greeting and wishes to return again soon. If you are a meat lover, the schweinshaxe will be for you. This huge, smoked, imported ham hock is fork tender and absolutely delicious. There is no way you will finish it. Keeping to the German menu, the schnitzel, jagerschnitzel, and sauerbraten are perfect. If you had a tour in Germany while
Smoked, Imported Ham Hock
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 75
Coastal
Toni and Roberto Cannella
76 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Coastal
Made-to-order Cannoli
in the military, this is exactly as you will remember it was. Another highlight of this menu is the imported German sausage (at least four kinds) served with real German mustard and a hearty, locally made, bread. The Italian menu is just as brief and just as delicious as the German. There is almost always a seasonal ravioli, if you are lucky they might have a Sicilian style pasta al forno, a lovely caprese salad and much more. There is one point that has to be driven home; make no mistake, you just have to try the cannoli and one of Roberto’s regimental espressos. There are just not the words to express the delicious harmony this lovely cup of coffee and eat-byhand dessert will impart. Guests have been known to weep over this incredible combination. Cannella is quirky, just off the beaten path, and hands down the best Italian and German food you will find within hundreds of miles. Make the drive. edm
Caprese Salad
Cannella 1113 Highway 90, Bay St Louis 228.467.4110 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 77
{ calendar }
Fill Your Plate December 5 Columbus - Wassail Fest Sample wassail, register for door prizes, and enjoy caroling throughout the streets of Downtown Columbus. Wassail is served at over 30 participating businesses. Vote for your favorite Wassailmeister at this Columbus tradition in its 11th year. For more information, visit www.columbusmainstreet.com/ event/wassail-fest-4 or call 662-328-6305.
December 2014/January 2015
Food Festivals & Events a Classic Christmas Parade on December 2 at 6 p.m. Everyone will enjoy the Kansas City Southern Holiday Express Train on December 4. This free event will feature food vendors and mini train rides beginning at 4 p.m. On December 6, shop for gifts and specialty foods at WhistleStop Marketplace inside the historic Newton Station Depot from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. For more information, call 601-683-2201. •••
December 13 Biloxi: Greek & Russian Pastry Sale
•••
December 2, 4, 6 Christmas in Historic Downtown Newton The Greek & Russian Pastry Sale at Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church in Biloxi will transport you across the boundaries of land and sea. The sale features traditional Greek pastries like Baklava (layers of filo, spiced nuts and honey), Kourambiedes (butter cookies with powdered sugar), Finikia (honey cookies with walnuts), Spanakopita (spinach triangles) and the popular Greek bread (Tsoureki) along with Russian pastries like Russian Bread, Poppyseed Rolls, and Nut Rolls. For more information, call George Yurchak at 228-831-5820 or visit www.holytrinitybiloxi.org. Enjoy a taste of the holidays at Christmas in Historic Downtown Newton. The season begins with 78 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
January 25-31 Oxford Restaurant Week
To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. All submissions are subject to editor's approval.
Trying to remember which issue that recipe you've wanted to try is in? Been flipping through pages to find the article on that restaurant you've been wanting to visit?
Oxford Restaurant Week is a week-long celebration of local food and charities. Every time you dine at a participating restaurant from January 25 - January 31, 2015, you’ll have the opportunity to vote for one of Oxford Restaurant Week’s local charities. The charity with the most votes compiled by January 31 will walk away with a check for $5,000. Charities include: Good Food for Oxford Schools, Love Packs, Meals on Wheels, More Than A Meal, and Oxford Food Pantry. For more information, visit www.visitoxfordms.com/oxford-restaurant-week/.
We've made it simple to find what you're looking for. Visit our website for a complete index of all of our features and recipes.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI www.eatdrinkmississippi.com
Thurman’s Landscaping Landscaping • Irrigation Waterfalls • Lighting Outdoor Kitchens & Patios Iron & Brick Work
601.270.8512 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 79
Recipe Index Amalgamation Cake, 24 Autumn in Indianola, 49 Blackened Seasoning, 51 Blackened Tilapia, 51 Candied Sweet Potatoes, 19 Caramel Fig Mini Cheesecakes, 13 Chicken and Dumplings, 21 Double Cheese Spinach-Potato Pie, 32 Festive Loaded Mashed Potatoes, 16 Five Pepper Strawberry Jelly Cheesebake Dip, 28 Fluffy Snow Coconut Frosting, 56 Heavy Cream Maple Mix, 49 Hot Buttered Rye, 49 Moon Pie Banana Pudding, 68 Mother's Snow White Coconut Cake, 56 Pimento & Cheese, 42 Pizza Sauce, 53 Prosciutto and Gruyere Stuffed Chicken Breasts, 45 RagĂş, 16 Salmon Croquettes, 19 Spicy Cranberry Pork Tenderloin, 81 Sugar Cookies, 43 Sweet Potato Pound Cake, 52 The Erin, 47 The Nutcracker, 48 VooDoo HooDoo, 48
Advertisers Index Brown Bottling, back cover Carter Louise Antiques, 4 Christina Foto, 11 Divian Conner Photography, 17 Mangia Bene, 17 Metal Builders Supply, 9 MS Delta Ducks, 17 Oxford Restaurant Week, 2 Sante South Wine Festival, 33 Simmons Catfish, 9 The Everyday Gourmet, 3 The Kitchen Table, 6 The Manship, 4 The Strawberry Cafe, 6 Thurman's Landscaping, 79 80 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
continued from page 21 5 times, sprinkling the top with additional flour as needed, until dough is smooth and no longer sticky. Separate into two dough balls; set one aside. Roll one ball of the pastry dough very thin, 1/8 to 1/4 inch; cut to desired shape. Sprinkle top of dumplings with additional flour, turn dumplings over and sprinkle the back side with flour. Let rest. Meanwhile, for the stew, melt butter in a Dutch oven or large pot, stir in flour, cook over low heat for 1 minute, or until smooth, stirring constantly. Slowly incorporate the milk, a little at a time, and cook over medium heat until you have a milk gravy. Begin adding the 2 quarts of reserved chicken stock. Bring mixture to a boil and stir in the chicken base. Taste, add salt, pepper and garlic powder, if using. Drop dumplings into the bubbling broth. Bring broth back up to a low boil, cover and cook over medium low for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, roll out and cut the remaining ball of dough. Drop the next set of dumplings, gently stir and continue cooking uncovered, stirring occasionally, another 10 to 15 minutes, or until dumplings are cooked through and tender. When dumplings are tender, add the reserved chicken, gently stir, and cook just until chicken is warmed through. Taste and adjust seasonings. Cook's Notes: Use a pizza wheel to quickly cut the dumplings. Keep in mind other sources of salt in your recipe (bouillon, butter, chicken base, etc.) before adding any additional salt; taste, then adjust. Leftover stew will thicken with refrigeration. Thin with a little milk or chicken broth when reheating.
STORE INFORMATION from pages 14-15
Pier 1 Imports Mississippi locations - Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Ridgeland, Southaven, Tupelo 1.800.245.4595 www.pier1.com The Everyday Gourmet 1270 E. County Line Rd. Ridgeland, MS 39157 601.977.9258 www.theeverydaygourmet.com The Kitchen Table 3720 Hardy St., Suite 3 Hattiesburg, MS 39402 601.261.2224 www.kitchentablenow.com Williams-Sonoma 1000 Highland Colony Pkwy. Ridgeland, MS 39157 601.898.8882 www.williams-sonoma.com
Spicy Idea for Holiday Dinner T
he holiday season tends to overflow with traditions – recipes passed down through generations, annual family gatherings, tree trimming parties and gift exchanges, to name a few. But it’s also a time filled with opportunities for the traditional to meet the modern as Christmas includes potlucks and parties with friends, co-workers and family from near and far, from a variety of backgrounds – and with all different kinds of tastes. So how can you put a modern spin on your holiday menu? It’s simple: add bold, exciting flavor to your homecooked holiday favorites using a versatile ingredient like
juicy, tender pork. Start with the traditional – tart, sweet cranberries and pork tenderloin – and add a twist, like jalapeños, to create robust, complex flavor. With seven total ingredients and less than an hour of total cook time, Spicy Cranberry Pork Tenderloin is a celebration-worthy meal that will delight your taste buds and your guests with the perfect combination of classic meets new inspiration. For a garnish, sprinkle freshly chopped sage on top of the finished product. Serve the pork and spicy cranberry sauce with roasted sweet potatoes, skinned and mashed with butter and honey. edm
Spicy Cranberry Pork Tenderloin Servings: 6-8 2 pork tenderloins, about 1 pound each 2 limes Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 1 (12-ounce) bag fresh cranberries 2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed 1 jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped Preheat oven to 400°F. Finely grate zest from limes. Juice limes (about 4 tablespoons). In small bowl, mix half lime zest (about 2 tablespoons) with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Brush tenderloins with oil. Place tenderloins in nonstick roasting pan, fat side up.
Roast, flipping them over after 8 minutes. Add lime zest mixture to top, and continue roasting until digital meat thermometer reads between 145°F. (medium rare) and 160°F. (medium), about 35-40 minutes. Meanwhile, in medium saucepan, mix 1 cup water with cranberries, brown sugar, jalapeño and remaining lime zest and juice. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until berries have burst and juices thickened, about 5 minutes. Set aside. Transfer pork to carving board and let stand for 3-5 minutes. Meanwhile, in roasting pan, bring cranberry sauce to a boil over medium heat, scraping up any browned bits in pan with wooden spoon. Carve pork and serve with sauce.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 81
Potluck Proof Is in the Corn Pudding
BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY
{ till we eat again }
BY JAY REED
E
very now and then I get the question, “What is your favorite food?” Running a close second is, “What’s your favorite place to eat?” Both are tough to answer. I’ve eaten in a wide variety of establishments, from the jointiest joint to the uppity place that sees no need to put silly things like prices on the menu, and I have waddled out of both in happy amazement. When it comes to specific foods, I might more easily give an answer, but it would be in the plural. Perhaps a good answer to both questions is actually one word: potluck. A potluck, when you get right down to it, is both a place and a meal. When you ask, “What are you taking to the potluck?” it is a destination. And if asked, “What kind of food are you having at church tonight?” a perfectly acceptable answer would be “potluck.” (That English lesson was free with purchase of this magazine. You are welcome.) It takes virtually no armtwisting to get me to a meat-and-three kind of place, and a potluck rings like a blue plate lunch with no pesky limits. “What would I like? I’ll take a spoonful of everything, thank you very much.” That’s not to say, however, that there are no guidelines when it comes to a proper covered dish supper, dinner on the grounds, or Jacob’s join. (This foray into the thesaurus is also free. That Jacob’s join thing is for real.) Ultimately, the most important rules for potlucks are volume, volume, and volume. Variety is important, too, but volume usu-
ally solves the variety problem. If there’s plenty of food and you take home an empty dish, you know you brought something memorable. You can be proud. But if all four pans of corn pudding are licked clean because there were only five dishes on the table, well, that’s another situation entirely. Let’s be clear, though - I’m not disrespecting corn pudding. It’s a classic potluck selection and one of my favorites. In fact, it’s usually what I bring because the recipe I use is so deceptively easy to be so doggone good. (We value it so highly in our family that it’s also a regular part of our holiday meal. Bonus - this is also a holiday-themed column. Free.) Every now and then the home cook will bring out the “once-a-year” recipe for occasions such as this. I can remember having rhubarb pie in about two places in my life: a conference center in England and a church potluck in Starkville. As I am unlikely to attend another conference in England anytime soon, I keep my eyes open for it on the dessert table at church. Another important guideline for a dinner on the grounds is that whatever you bring, it’s always better to make it yourself. It’s okay to bring KFC as long as someone else brought home-fried chicken, and it’s okay to bring cookies from the supermarket if you absolutely have no time to make something. Kids will eat them and it’s better than showing up empty-handed. But don’t expect to walk away with the trophy - the
82 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.
squeaky clean Corning Ware - if the grocery deli did the cooking. It also helps to have a strategy. Ladies first and age before beauty and all that, but once potluck etiquette is observed, you want to get in line early. Good stuff will disappear quickly. And if there is a separate dessert table, get your main meal, set it down, then go get dessert right away. Second verse, same as the first: those who dilly-dally don’t get the rhubarb pie. (Free tip: scout out the end of the dessert table first, and if only tiny dessert-sized plates are visible, stop by the main dish area first and get a real plate.) I also recommend the “tasting menu” strategy. Rather than fill up my plate with big portions of only a few dishes, I get a couple of bites of everything that looks good. That doesn’t work well with chicken thighs, but it’s workable with just about everything else. If there is any meal in the South that brings greater joy to the belly than a proper potluck, I daresay you’d be hard pressed to find it. Just remember the rules. And remember the rhubarb. I’ll bring the corn pudding. edm
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