eat. drink. MISSISIPPI - April/May 2023

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April Showers Bring May Flowers

BY MICHELE D. BAKER

The old adage is true: a shower of April events leads right into all the great celebrations in May, and both months are full of amazing holidays and happenings.

We start out with the big ones: Jewish Passover is celebrated April 5-13; Sunday, April 9 is Easter; and Ramadan (which began March 22) ends on April 10. Get out your big hats to celebrate the Kentucky Derby on May 6 (be sure to look at the recipes in this issue!); and on Sunday, May 14 we celebrate mothers and grandmothers everywhere on Mother’s Day. (Check out our recipe for chocolate pancakes with strawberries for mom’s breakfast in bed.)

Other international celebrations this spring include Songkran Festival on April 13-15, the Thai New Year and a holiday described as “the biggest water fight in the world,” as throwing water is meant to wash away bad luck from the previous year.

There is also a whole basket full of lesserknown food-themed celebrations that

sound like fun! Celebrate National Peanut Butter and Jelly Day on April 2, National Burrito Day on April 6, National Beer Day on April 7, and Pretzel Day on April 26.

In May, why not celebrate Cinco de Mayo on May 5, National Lemonade Day on May 7 and National “Have a Coke” Day on May 8? May 11 is National Eat What You Want Day, National Apple Pie Day is May 13, and, just in time for barbecue season, National Brisket Day is May 28. Perhaps you could celebrate the end of spring and the beginning of summer with a brisket barbecue on Memorial Day (May 29)!

No matter how you choose to spend your spring, we wish you fair skies, happy families, and delicious food.

In gratitude,

Photo by James Patterson

Aplos Opening Second Location in Ridgeland

Aplos founder and CEO Alex Eaton recently announced that the popular Mediterranean eatery will open a second location at Renaissance at Colony Park. The Highland Village hotspot is known for casual, Mediterranean dishes, pizzas, and frozen cocktails. The Renaissance location will be near Malco Cinema and is set to open Father’s Day weekend. The Highland Village location will also unveil updates this spring, including additional seating, a new bar, and new technology. For more information, visit EatAplos.com. e d m

Zundo Ramen & Sake Bar

Opens in Fondren

Anew ramen restaurant opened earlier this year the Fondren neighborhood of Jackson. Zundo Ramen Bar presents contemporary Japanese dining and is known for its slow-cooked approach to ramen. Broths are simmered in-house for 20 hours and noodles are housemade. The menu also includes gyoza, chash bun (pork belly bun), kaki fry (deep fried oysters), Katsu curry rice, and other Japanese favorites. Zundo is located at 3100 N. State Street, Suite 102, in Jackson. Check out their menu online at ZundoRamenMS.com. edm

Lucky Dog Music Hall & Bar Opening at Silo Square

Another unique concept is set to open this summer at Southaven’s Silo Square. Lucky Dog Music Hall & Bar will be home to live music five days a week, great food and drinks, and more. Rollup barn doors and outdoor seating will overlook the beautiful bell tower at Silo Park. Lucky Dog will also be dog friendly and the perfect spot before or after summer concerts at the BankPlus Amphitheater, happy hour, or just a night out. For more information, see Facebook.com/silosquarems. edm

Bluto’s Greek Tavern Opens in Starkville

Anew restaurant recently entered the Starkville culinary scene. Located in the heart of the Cotton District, Bluto’s Greek Tavern is located in the former Humble Taco location on University Drive. The menu is full of gyros, salads, Greek entrees, and appetizers like the pita mozz, Greek wings, loaded Greek fries, spanikopita, and baba ghanoush. Being in a college town, there is also a late-night menu of gyros, fries, and quesadillas. Bluto’s also boasts a creative drink menu with three specialty drinks served in a 40-ounce fishbowl. For more info and the menu, visit BlutosGreekTavern.com. edm

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Magnolia a Taste of

Heritage Recipe: Butternut Squash Pie

STORY AND PHOTOS BY DIVIAN CONNER

The arrival of April is exciting for me. It marks the true start of really getting back outdoors. Even though this winter has certainly been one roller coaster of a weather ride, the authentic expected beginning of summer is right around the corner come April and May. Those are the months that the outdoor gatherings begin, trips and vacation getaways planned, people kneel in their gardens plucking weeds and making sure their lawns are the envy of all the neighborhood. I am a huge flower person, so these months mark the arrival of beautiful wild flowers and Queen Anne’s Lace that I can gather to top my dining room table.

The thoughts of food gardens, fresh produce being sold from local farmers, the excitement of all the wonderful meals I can make, April initiates the warmness of the upcoming summer and all of the thrills that make it one exciting wave.

When I think of warmer weather, being in the South, I immediately begin to think of fruits and vegetables. This brings about so many possible recipe ideas. Recently, I have had a big interest in vintage and lost recipes from the past–the ones that used to be so popular in an area but rarely get the front page like they used to. I have found cake ideas, fruit salad ideas, breads and buns recipes that are slowly being forgotten, recipes that were once staples at potlucks but not regularly showcased today as they should be. I have discovered and added so many delicious ideas to my list of things to make and a lot of them deal with fresh produce playing center stage. Not to say no one gets to savor these recipes today, but they are just lesser known or seen.

DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com. Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

I do admit it is fun presenting family and friends with dishes they have not had the chance to experience and if using fresh ingredients, that’s all the better, right? Now, as a big pie lover, imagine the joy that leapt into this wee heart of mine when I found out about butternut squash pie. Why hasn’t anyone told me of this gemstone of a pie? I have a cousin who can knock your socks off with a carrot pie and my mind was blown. The delight when I ran across a recipe for butternut squash had me doing the happy toddler dance. Of course, I had to tweak it but oh boy, so good. Being big time sweet potato pie lovers, this pie was perfect for us and is sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. I love not only discovering things that are new to me, but just knowing that in a pinch that I can substitute something for a similar experience of another is downright fascinating.

If you have ever had this pie, is it a staple for you and your family? If you have not made it in a while or if you have not had this delectable experience that is butternut squash pie, see this as a gentle push for you to give it a go. I am certainly glad I did. Refrigerated pie dough – pat dough into pie pan and crimp edges. Use additional pie dough for decorations if desired.* edm

BUTTERNUT SQUASH PIE

For the filling:

• 2 cups pureed butternut squash

• 1/2 cup granulated sugar

• 2 Eggs

• 1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg

• 1 tsp. Cinnamon

• Pinch Of Salt

• 1/4 cup half and half

• 3/4 cup brown sugar

• 1 stick melted butter

• Olive oil

1. Cut squash in half and remove all seeds and stringy pieces. (You can allow these seeds to dry to give away or save for your own garden.)

2. Drizzle the halves lightly with olive oil. Place cut side down on baking shoot and bake at 400 degrees for about 30-45 minutes until easily pierced with a fork.

3. Once tender, use a spoon and scoop out the squash and place in a blender or food processor. Blend until smooth and tip into large mixing bowl. Combine all other ingredients and mix well.

4. Pour in prepared pie dish over the crust. Bake for about 50-60 minutes until a toothpick or knife inserted in the center comes out clean. About 30 minutes into

baking, you may need to cover the pie with foil to prevent the crust from burning.

*I added pie crust decorations to my pie using cookie cutters. I bake covered for 30 minutes and then uncovered for the remainder of the baking time to prevent my added decorations from burning.

Classic Delights for Derby

BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

You don’t have to hail from the Bluegrass State to know about the infamous annual horse race known as the Kentucky Derby. Dubbed the “greatest two minutes in sports” – a nod to the approximate amount of time it takes for the horses to complete their gallop around the track – the Kentucky Derby is known for so much more than just horses. Ostentatious ladies’ hats and sundresses, seersucker suits for men, signature cocktails and delicious food. This year, place your bets on these Kentucky Derby themed recipes. edm

Day

Celebrations

Apricot and Burbon Glazed Meatballs

Kentucky Derby Chocolate Walnut Pie

APRICOT AND BOURBON GLAZED MEATBALLS SERVES 4

For the Apricot Bourbon Glaze:

• 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter

• ½ cup diced yellow onion

• 2 teaspoons minced garlic

• 1 cup apricot preserves

• 1 cup chili sauce

• ½ cup bourbon

• ⅓ cup apple cider vinegar

• ¼ cup packed light brown sugar

• 2 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

• 2 Tablespoons spicy brown mustard

For the meatballs:

• 2 lbs. ground chicken sausage

• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• Salt and pepper to taste

• Oil for frying

For the glaze:

1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat.

2. Add the onion and sauté until the onion is tender and translucent, about five minutes.

3. Add the garlic and sauté for an additional 30 seconds.

4. Combine the remaining sauce ingredients. Add to the pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and set aside. The sauce will thicken as it cools.

For the meatballs:

1. Form the chicken sausage into 2-inch meatballs.

2. Roll the meatballs in the eggs. Then coat with the flour.

3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

4. Working in batches if needed, add the meatballs to the hot oil and fry until the outside is golden brown and the meatballs are cooked through, about 5-7 minutes. Drain the meatballs on paper towels.

5. Coat the meatballs with the glaze.

KENTUCKY DERBY CHOCOLATE WALNUT PIE

Ingredients:

• 4 large eggs

• 1/2 cup butter, melted and cooled

• 1 cup light corn syrup

• 3 Tablespoons bourbon

• 1 cup light brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1/2 cup chopped walnuts

• 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

• 9-inch pie shell, unbaked

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the eggs, melted butter, corn syrup, bourbon, brown sugar and vanilla. Whisk together until the sugar is dissolved.

3. Evenly sprinkle the walnuts and chocolate chips into the unbaked pie shell.

4. Pour the filling over the nuts and chocolate and bake for 50-60 minutes until the center of the pie is set. If the pie begins to brown too quickly, loosely cover with aluminum foil.

5. Allow the pie to cool completely for several hours on a wire rack before serving. Add the garlic and green onions and sauté for one minute.

OLD FASHIONED MINT JULEP COCKTAIL

Ingredients:

• 8 mint leaves

• 1/4 oz. simple syrup

• 2 1/2 oz. bourbon

• Bitters (optional)

Directions:

1. In a Julep cup or rocks glass, lightly muddle the mint leaves.

2. Add the bourbon and simple syrup, then pack the glass tightly with crushed ice.

3. Stir until the cup is frosted on the outside.

4. Top with more crushed ice to form an ice dome, and garnish with a mint sprig and a few drops of bitters (optional).

Old Fashioned Mint Julep Cocktail

Foodie Finds for Easter

Mr. and Mrs. Ears Milk Chocolate Easter Bunnies, $59.99

The best things come in pairs. Crafted in their Oregon candy kitchen, these intricately decorated chocolate Easter bunnies are made with the same decadent and silkysmooth chocolate Harry and David use in their rich truffles. Available at Harry & David.

Peter Rabbit Small Papiermâché Egg, $29.99

This handcrafted papiermâché egg features a charming illustration of Peter Rabbit outside and a bounty of treats inside. Created by premium confectioners, the sweets include a solid milk chocolate bunny plus fluffy marshmallow twists, sour jelly beans, sugar-sanded gummy eggs and assorted chocolates. Williams Sonoma.

Ukrainian Easter Egg (Pysanka) Pin – “Pine Tree,” $14.95

A pysanka is a Ukrainian Easter egg decorated with traditional folk designs – the Pine Tree pin is based on a Ukrainian folk song about the creation of the world. 100% of profits will be donated to Ukrainian-led organizations assisting displaced refugees. Available at DissentPins.com.

Brew Bunny Tea Infuser, $14.99

Made to look like a relaxing bunny with ears that drape over the edge of your teacup, this sweet little character will help you make the perfect cup of tea. All you have to do is fill with the loose-leaf tea of your choice. Hand wash. Harry & David.

Caspari Party Crackers – Bunnies & Carrots, $30

Get the party hoppin’ with party crackers that every-bunny will enjoy. Just pull the ends for a “bang” that reveals the prizes inside: confetti, a bunny ear headband, a bunny figurine and a trivia question/ice breaker. 8 per box. Available at NinesMW.com

Mother’s Day Mojitos Three Ways

Turn your celebration into a pick-your-own-cocktail party with mojitos made with strawberry, blueberry, or pineapple. Whatever your mom chooses, it’ll be a good one. edm

Ingredients:

• 1/2 c. lime juice

• 3 tsp. granulated sugar, divided

• 1 bunch fresh mint

• 1/4 c. chopped pineapple

• 1/4 c. quartered strawberries

• 1/4 c. blueberries, plus more for garnish

• Ice

• 6 oz. white rum, divided

• 1 (12-oz.) can seltzer

• Pineapple wedge, for garnish

• Strawberry, for garnish

• Lime slices, for garnish

1. Divide the lime juice evenly among three glasses. Add a teaspoon of sugar to each glass and two mint leaves.

2. Add pineapple to one glass, strawberries to another, and blueberries to the third. Using the back of a wooden spoon, muddle fruit and mint.

3. Fill each glass two-thirds full with ice cubes. Add 2 ounces rum to each glass and top with seltzer.

4. Garnish with fruit, mint, and lime.

5. Other options: After rimming the glass with cocoa, swirl a line of dark chocolate syrup around the inside of the glass. Top with a sprinkle of dark chocolate shavings before adding the strawberry heart.

If mom prefers non-alcoholic, we’ve got that too — our blackberry virgin mojito is mighty refreshing and a great fourth option.

BLACKBERRY VIRGIN MOJITO

For the mint syrup:

• 1/2 c. packed fresh mint leaves

• 1 c. granulated sugar

• 1 c. water

For the mojito:

• 1 c. blackberries

• 1 tsp. granulated sugar

• 1/2 c. lime juice

• Ice

• 2 (12-oz.) cans seltzer

• Fresh mint, for garnish

1. In a small pot, crush mint leaves using a wooden spoon. Add sugar and water and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Let boil 3 minutes. Cool to room temperature, then strain out mint leaves, pressing with a wooden spoon to help release all liquid.

2. Tip blackberries and sugar into a small bowl and use a wooden spoon to crush blackberries until broken down.

3. Divide blackberries between 4 glasses. Add 2 tablespoons simple syrup and 2 tablespoons lime juice to each glass. Fill glasses with ice and top off with seltzer, then garnish with mint.

Images and food styling by Camille Lowder and Emily Hlavac Green, Delish.com. Recipes courtesy of Lena Abraham and Makinze Gore

Foodie Finds for Mother’s Day

TOPIST Angry Mama Microwave Cleaner, $7.99

This microwave cleaner is a charming, quirky, cute gift for Mother’s Day. Add a little water and vinegar into this hilarious momma, pop her into the microwave, and let the steam streaming from her head loosen all the gunk in the microwave for an easy wipe-down finish. Find her on Amazon.

Bread Warming Blanket, $32

The best thing to happen for sliced bread, this blanket keeps your favorite loaf warm and fresh for much longer than the traditional napkin. The secret is in the microwaveable flax seed-filled pack which slips into the blanket’s pouch. Choose between basket pattern or classic white. Made in USA. Grab one at Uncommon Goods.

Bee’s Wrap Reusable Beeswax Food Wraps, $17.99

Made with certified organic cotton, responsibly sourced beeswax, certified organic plant oils, and tree resin, this durable, yet pliable plastic wrap alternative can be used again and again. Set of 3 (medium) available on Amazon.

DIY Raindrop Cake –Molecular Gastronomy Kit, $38

Recreate the dessert that took social media by storm! How does it taste? Well, that’s up to you. Once you’ve followed the step-by-step instructions, the translucent treasure becomes a blank canvas where the sky’s the limit for toppings and flavor combinations. Available from Uncommon Goods.

Butter Board Seasoning Kit, $36

The butter board is a luscious trend with a flavorful twist from this expertly blended kit. Seasoned butters are delicious on their own as a spread, topping, or addition to your favorite recipes. The kit comes with recipes along with wax paper and twine so you can store or gift your wellseasoned specialties. Find it at Uncommon Goods.

From Mississippi to Beyond

YouTube’s “Dirty Napkins” Spotlights Positive People and Restaurants

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

There is no doubt that when the napkins are dirty, the food is good. At least, that’s how Kayland Partee thinks. “If the food is good at a restaurant, the napkins should be dirty!” That is how the Jackson native came up with the name of his online show that highlights Jackson and Mississippi in a positive way through his love of food.

“I began going to different restaurants when I lived in New Orleans, and that gave me a greater appreciation of good food,” says Partee. “I started taking pictures of the food I ate.” The pandemic lockdown gave Partee time to think about things he would like to do. A professional photographer and videographer by trade, Kayland thought about how he could combine his talents and skills with his love for food. “I also wanted to spotlight the positive places and people in this area. There is so much bad news every day, but at the same time, there are people who are doing great things and I wanted to recognize them.”

The result is a YouTube show called Dirty Napkins. The format is simple. The setting for each show is a different restaurant. The

show opens with scenes from the restaurant, and viewers get a good idea of what the specialties are. Food may be served while the guest is introduced. The guest may be a local politician, a musician, a businessperson, or someone else who is doing something interesting. “We don’t shut down the restaurant or find a quiet place away from everything to do the interviews,” Partee says. “We are in the middle of the restaurant, and you hear all the ambient noise. A waiter may pass by from time to time, even refill the water glasses. We want our viewers to feel the real ambiance of the place.”

Dirty Napkins recently wrapped its third season. “We had five episodes the first season, in 2020, followed by ten episodes in season two and ten episodes last year in season three,” he says. All episodes were hosted by Jeremy Taylor, with Partee handling the bookings for each show. The show’s production is handled inhouse, with Partee in charge of multiple cameras for each shoot, as well as audio and lights.

“I have been fortunate to have talented people around

me,” he says. “They make it easy to see the possibilities of where this show can go.” While it’s been shot mostly around the Jackson area, Partee says he’d like to take it statewide. “There are so many good restaurants across the state, and so many people statewide who are doing such positive things. I don’t think we’ll ever run short of good material.”

With a fourth season about to start production, Partee has exciting things in store for viewers. “We have a really big season coming up, and we are looking to diversify. We have a new host for the Jackson episodes, Chief Anu-Seti Amen-Ra, an entrepreneur with an emphasis on fine cigars.” Partee met Amen-Ra through Oxfam America, and he learned about his cigar rolling skills. “He has a big personality and a curiosity about people that will make him a great host for Dirty Napkins. I am excited to announce that we will have our own Dirty Napkins cigar.” Partee also says that as they look to branch out across the state, Jeremy Taylor will host those shows.

“The response to the first three seasons has been strong,” finishes Partee. “We really hope to grow this into something big, like our own mini food and travel network.”

WE'VE GOT A BETTER WAY

Oxford’s Velvet Ditch Coffee: A Taste of Home

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ, IMAGES COURTESY OF JOE WORTHEM, OXFORD

Leslie Walkington likes coffee as much as anyone else who wakes up to a hot, steaming cup of the dark brew. But when her brother came to visit one Christmas and made a pour-over coffee, Walkington says that took her appreciation of coffee to a whole new level. So much so that she started her own coffee roasting company, Velvet Ditch Coffee Roasters.

A native of Jackson, Walkington spent much of her childhood traveling to Oxford, the childhood home of her father. After college she spent many years in public relations in Nashville (Southern Baptist Convention and Warner Brothers Records) and in San Diego, where she went to school to get her master’s. While there, she met her husband. Six months after her daughter Ruby was born, her mother passed away. “She was going to move to California to make sure Ruby learned the Southern ways,” says Walkington. “Because my husband was in tech and able to work remotely, we took a leap of faith and

moved to Oxford. The Lord brought us here, and we couldn’t be happier.”

Walkington is an adjunct professor at Ole Miss, but during the pandemic lockdown she began experimenting with coffee. They sought out locally roasted coffee at farmer’s markets. “Nothing compared to the coffee my brother had brought from California, and the cost of having it shipped was often more expensive than the coffee itself. I decided to go to coffee school, with the idea that I could roast coffee for my husband and me, and perhaps sell some to neighbors and friends.”

She attended the aptly named Boot Camp Coffee in 2019, started by coffee expert William Boot. “It really is the best place in the country to learn all about coffee,” she says. “I learned under Marcus Young, the most well-known coffee guy in the country. When I am working on a new roast, I always send him a sample to critique.” Walkington earned her Specialty

Coffee Association certification. Then COVID hit, and during that time she thought about launching her own coffee roasting business.

The process for roasting coffee is much more involved than one might imagine. “I work with importers to get beans from farmers all over the world,” says Walkington. “I work with companies that are ethical, people I know and trust. They source the coffee and send me samples that I can roast.” Cupping the coffee is an important part of the process. “I am looking for mouth feel, color, aroma, flavor, acidity and after taste.”

Commodity coffees sold in supermarkets are different from specialty coffees. “We use a different bean altogether,” she explains. “Like grapes for wine, coffee is affected by everything around the tree – soil, temperature, sun, rain – all give the coffee its own unique flavor.” The coffee is graded. “We use only beans that are 84 points or higher. Kenyan beans, at 100 points, are grown at the highest elevation in the world. There are so many different coffees from different origins and regions.”

Once Walkington put her toe in the world of coffee, she fell in love with it. “Did you know that coffee is a fruit? It is in the cherry family.” Being part of a worldwide community in the coffee industry has been fun. “I love being in a business where people share their knowledge so willingly, and they want to see

each other succeed.”

When she decided to go larger than roasting beans for her own family, Walkington knew she wanted her company to be based in Oxford. “I’ve always loved it here,” she says, and named the coffee Velvet Ditch, a nickname for Oxford. She is a planner by nature, and she took two semesters off from teaching to spend time doing her research and setting up the business. She did a soft launch on September 1, 2022.

“My goal was to be in two stores by the end of the year,” Walkington says. Velvet Ditch coffee can now be found in four locations in Oxford, including Oxford Gourmet and Gifts, Sugar Magnolia, Oxford Creamery, and Chicory Market. “We also take orders online and ship nationwide.”

Drinking coffee is a treat. “It makes me feel warm and cozy,” she finishes. “It brings people together around the table. It builds community. We want people to spend quality time with other people, while drinking a quality cup of coffee. When people take that first sip of Velvet Ditch coffee, I want them to say ‘wow.’”

www.velvetditchcoffee.com edm

Grandma’ s cookbooK

3 Vintage Cake Recipes That Stand the Test of Time

By Michele D. Baker

My grandmother used to tell me it wasn’t a coincidence that our last name is Baker. We were that family that contributed to church bazaar cookbooks, charity fundraising cookbooks and sent recipes to the local paper. The women – and most of the men, too – would pore over stacks and stacks of cookbooks on every culinary topic imaginable, and my grandmother (and then my mother) had the entire 1970s

“Good Cook” cookbook set published by Time Life. My favorites were always the baking books. I was, and

continue to be, fascinated by bread, rolls, baps, breadsticks, cottage loaves, brownies, cookies, cakes, and anything else containing flour. Thank heaven I’m not gluten intolerant! These three vintage cake recipes are adapted from Grandma’s church picnic cookbooks, updated slightly using companion recipes from Taste of Home. I encourage you to bring back these well-loved treasures from another era and remember why they are classics! edm

CLASSIC PINEAPPLE UPSIDE DOWN CAKE

Ingredients:

• 1/3 cup butter, melted

• 2/3 cup packed brown sugar

• 1 can (20 ounces) sliced pineapple

• 1/2 cup chopped pecans

• 3 large eggs, separated, room temperature

• 1 cup sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 9 maraschino cherries

• Whipped topping, optional

1. Preheat oven to 375°. In an ungreased 9-in. square baking pan, combine butter and brown sugar. Drain pineapple, reserving 1/3 cup juice. Arrange 9 pineapple slices in a single layer over sugar (refrigerate any remaining slices for another use). Sprinkle pecans over pineapple; set aside.

2. In a large bowl, beat egg yolks until

thick and lemon-colored. Gradually add sugar, beating well. Blend in vanilla and reserved pineapple juice. Combine flour, baking powder and salt; add to batter, beating well.

3. In a small bowl with clean beaters, beat egg whites on high speed until stiff peaks form; fold into batter. Spoon into pan.

4. Bake 30-35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Let stand 10 minutes before inverting onto serving plate. Place a cherry in the center of each pineapple slice. If desired, serve with whipped topping.

BANANA CAKE WITH CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

Ingredients for the cake:

• 2/3 cup shortening

• 1-1/2 cups sugar

• 2 large eggs, separated, room temperature

• 2 cups mashed bananas (about 4 medium)

• 1 cup 2% milk

• 3 cups all-purpose flour

• 1-1/4 teaspoons baking powder

• 1-1/4 teaspoons baking soda

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Ingredients for the cream cheese frosting:

• 1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, softened

• 1/4 cup butter, softened

• 4 cups confectioners’ sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• Dash salt

• Sliced banana, optional

1. Preheat oven to 350°.

2. In a bowl, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Set aside.

3. In another bowl, cream shortening and sugar until light and fluffy, 5-7 minutes. Add egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add bananas and milk; mix just until combined.

4. Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add to creamed mixture and mix just until blended.

5. Gently fold beaten egg whites into batter.

6. Pour into a greased 9” x 13” baking pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 30-35 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack.

7. In a large bowl, beat cream cheese and butter until fluffy. Add the confectioners’ sugar, vanilla and salt; beat until smooth. Spread over cooled cake. Store in the refrigerator. If desired, serve with sliced bananas.

NOTE: Avoid overmixing banana cake! Stirring too much will create more gluten, which will lead to a dense cake. To get a soft and light cake, stir just until the ingredients are combined.

Ingredients for the cake:

• 2 cups heavy whipping cream

• 2 Tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 package (9 ounces) chocolate wafers

• Chocolate curls, optional

1. In a large bowl, beat cream until soft peaks form. Add sugar and vanilla; beat until stiff. Spread heaping teaspoonfuls on the cookies. Make six stacks of cookies; turn stacks on edge and place on a serving platter, forming a 14” long “cake.”

2. Frost top and sides with remaining whipped cream. If desired, garnish with chocolate curls. Refrigerate 4-6 hours before serving.

3. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2-3 days or freeze, wrapped in foil, for up to 1 month. Thaw before serving.

NOTES: This is a fun recipe to really make your own. Swap out the chocolate wafers with your favorite cookie or add layers of chocolate, chopped nuts, fruit, or peanut butter between the wafer layers.

CHOCOLATE ICEBOX CAKE

Dark Chocolate Pancakes with Creamy Ganache and Strawberries

By Michele D. Baker Recipe adapted from Tasty.com

Ingredients for six pancakes:

• 2 egg yolks

• 2 egg whites, whipped

• 3 Tablespoons sugar

• 1 ⅓ cups milk, more if the batter is too thick

• 3 Tablespoons butter, melted

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 ½ cups flour

• ¼ cup cocoa powder

• 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder

• 3 ½ oz chocolate, finely chopped

• 1 Tablespoon butter or oil for cooking

Ingredients for six pancakes:

• 1 cup heavy cream

• 8 oz chocolate chips

• Strawberries for garnish

Directions:

1. In a large bowl, mix together yolks and sugar. While still

whisking, add milk.

2. Carefully fold in whipped egg whites. (NOTE: It’s better to use a spoon rather than a whisk.)

3. Add and mix in the melted butter and the vanilla.

4. In another large bowl, sieve together the flour, cocoa powder, and the baking powder. Form a little well in the middle and pour in the milk and eggs mixture. Stir until the batter is smooth.

5. Mix in the chopped chocolate. Let the batter sit for 15-20 minutes.

6. To make the ganache, in a small saucepan, heat the heavy cream; do not boil.

7. Take off the heat, add the chocolate chips and mix until perfectly smooth.

8. Over low to medium heat, pour ¼ cup (60 ml) of pancake batter onto a well-oiled pan.

9. When bubbles start to form on the surface of the pancake, flip and cook it for a minute on the other side.

10. When the pancakes are ready, pour the chocolate ganache on top. (If the ganache has hardened while you were making the pancakes, you can microwave it for 15-20 seconds.)

11. Garnish with fresh strawberries.

Passover Recipes

It’s nearly Passover (April 5 to April 13), so get ready to ditch the chametz (leaved bread products) and attend or host a Passover seder dinner. Though you’ll probably never completely get rid of some of the more traditional foods eaten during Passover (like potato kugel), those who celebrate know things can get a little repetitive after a while. The best way to avoid that is to switch up your side dishes to bring some much-needed variety, color, and flavors to your meals. Some recipes are practically synonymous with Passover, like

kugel, matzo ball soup, carrot-and-date-based tzimmes, and apple-walnut charoset. So we’re giving some new options containing ingredients like horseradish (maror), hard-boiled eggs (beitzah), and beets (zeroah).

We think the best part about appreciating a culture is the chance to eat traditional dishes, but we hope these recipes will help broaden your perspective and inspire you to try something new. edm

2. Meanwhile, make vinaigrette. In a jar, shake together olive oil, vinegar, maple syrup, and Dijon until fully combined. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Place arugula in a large serving bowl and lightly dress with vinaigrette. Top with beets, avocado, goat cheese, and walnuts. Toss gently and add more vinaigrette as needed.

HORSERADISH MASHED POTATOES

Recipe by Lauren Miyashiro, Delish.com, Photo by Kat Wirsing

Ingredients:

• 3 lb. (about 4 large) russet potatoes, peeled and diced

• Kosher salt

• 1/2 cup (1 stick) kosher butter, plus more for serving

ROASTED BEET AND GOAT CHEESE SALAD

Delish.com, photo by Parker Bach

Ingredients:

• 6 medium beets, scrubbed

• 6 cups arugula

• 1 avocado, sliced

• 4 oz. goat cheese, crumbled

• 1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts

Ingredients for the dressing:

• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

• 1 Tablespoon maple syrup

• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Wrap each beet in foil and place on a baking sheet. Roast until tender (you can insert a fork or knife through the foil to test), about 1 hour. Let sit until cool enough to handle, then peel and cut into wedges.

• 1/2 cup milk

• 1 cup kosher sour cream

• 3 Tablespoons prepared horseradish

• Freshly ground black pepper

• Freshly chopped chives, for garnish

1. In a large pot, cover potatoes with water and season with salt. Bring to a boil and cook until potatoes can be easily pierced with a fork, 16 to 18 minutes. Drain and return to pot. Use a potato masher to mash potatoes until smooth.

2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter with milk until warm. Pour mixture over potatoes and stir until creamy. Stir in sour cream and horseradish then season with salt and pepper. Transfer potatoes to a serving bowl and top with a pat of butter. Season with more pepper and garnish with chives before serving.

ROASTED WHOLE CAULIFLOWER

MyKosherRecipes.com

5. Spread all of the sauce over the entire cauliflower.

6. Cover with foil tent (do not touch the cauliflower) and bake covered for 1 hour. Uncover and baste with juices that formed on the bottom every 10 minutes until fully cooked and golden brown (30 more minutes).

7. Transfer to plate and serve with remaining juices as a dipping sauce.

BEST-EVER EGG SALAD

By Lauren Miyashiro, Delish.com

Ingredients:

• 8 hard-boiled eggs, peeled

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise

• 2 teaspoons whole grain mustard

• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

• 1/2 stalk of celery, minced (about 1/3 cup)

• 2 Tablespoons finely sliced chives

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Paprika, for garnish

1. Roughly chop hard-boiled eggs and transfer to a medium bowl. Mash slightly with a fork to break up yolks.

2. Add mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, celery and chives and mix until evenly combined. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste.

3. Serve on lettuce leaf.

Ingredients:

• Medium head of cauliflower (about 1.5 lb)

• 1 cup mayonnaise

• 3 Tablespoons Dijon mustard

• 2 Tablespoons honey

• 2 Tablespoons Sriracha

• 2 Tablespoons vegetable oil

• 3 Tablespoons minced garlic

• 3 Tablespoons or more chopped dill

• Kosher Salt & Pepper

• Paprika

1. Preheat oven to 400F.

2. Mix mayonnaise, mustard honey, Sriracha and oil together. Add garlic and dill and mix.

3. Add kosher salt and pepper to taste.

4. Place cauliflower in a 9” × 13” pan. Sprinkle paprika lightly on top.

Tasting Menu at Vestige in Ocean Springs Is a Culinary Masterpiece

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY JULIAN BRUNT

If you are looking for an absolutely unique dining experience, Vestige in Ocean Springs just may be what you are looking for. Chef Alex Perry describes it as casual fine dining, but that only tells you that you do not have to dress up to visit. What you really need to know is that at Vestige you are going to have a culinary experience like you have never had before. That’s a promise.

I have been a food writer and fan of great restaurants for many years, and have written about the food culture in the South hundreds of times. But never have I encountered a chef like Alex Perry or a restaurant like Vestige. The menu is a preset tasting menu and it is not a place for the culinarily faint of heart. You have to be willing to take a leap of faith and pop into your mouth things that you have never dreamed of, like steelhead trout, red kuri, miso, ground cherry, white truffle, or mizuna. If you understand the level of excellence, the passion for perfection that Chef Alex is known for, then you are on your way to a true adventure. If you fit this profile, I promise you that when you leave your table at Vestige, it will be with memories you will talk about for the rest of your life.

I have known Chef Alex since Vestige opened in 2013. The menu is based on the best ingredients that can be found. Buying local and seasonal is important, buying sustainable is too, but nothing trumps quality. You will never find the same thing on this menu twice, there are no favorites, or classics. Each dining experience is unique. In the winter you may find rice from Two Brooks farm in the

Mississippi Delta, just as you might find wild salmon or Pacific halibut, both highly regulated by the MSC (Marine Steward Counsel), but the preparation will be different from day to day.

It’s difficult to describe Chef Alex’s style. Attention to detail is absolute. Never rush into a meal at Vestige, take your time and discover every detail of the presentation, color, and structure. When you take the first bite, close your eyes, and examine flavor combinations and textures. I once had a fried okra salad at Vestige and I was shocked to discover that there were four textures in the okra: stim, meat, skin, and seed. What was shocking was to realize that it was done on purpose and was no accident of nature. I still marvel at the genius of that dish.

Chef Alex is fond of Japanese cuisine, and you will see that reflection on his plates, small, subtitle additions that are powerful, like house made fermentations (miso and soy), purple sweet potato vinegar, or the use of small flowers and always contrasting textures.

Chef Alex never does anything without reason, there is no flair just to show off, no “weird for weird’s sake.” Chef Alex Perry is the most brilliant chef I know. He told me once, “The food will tell you where to go.” I will never have the vision that Chef Alex has, but I am willing to follow him anywhere he goes.

Vestige is located at 715 Washington Avenue in Ocean Springs and is open Tuesday – Saturday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. edm

Just What Are the James Beard Awards?

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

There’s something very posh sounding about saying you are dining at a James Beard Award-winning restaurant, or that your meal was prepared by a James Beard Award-winning chef. But do you really know what a James Beard Award is?

Let’s start with James Beard himself. Born in 1903 in Portland, Oregon, James Beard was a cookbook author and chef who celebrated American cuisine and encouraged the use of fresh, seasonal ingredients.

The New York Times bestowed the title “dean of American Cookery” to Beard in 1954. He wrote twenty cookbooks between 1940 and 1983, many of which are still in print today. Recipes include regional favorites to international cuisine. Beard introduced Americans to new foods and techniques, not just

through his cookbook, but through television cooking shows and at The James Beard Cooking School in New York City and Seaside, Oregon. From chefs in fine restaurants to home food enthusiasts, generations were trained and inspired by Beard’s passion for good food.

Through the annual James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards, James Beard is remembered and honored. The Awards are administered by the James Beard Foundation, a nonprofit organization established 30 years ago. The mission, according to the organization’s website, “is to celebrate, support, and elevate the people behind America’s food culture and champion a standard of good food anchored in talent, equity, and sustainability.”

The road to winning a coveted James Beard Award begins with the nomination process. Anyone can nominate a chef or restaurant through an online form on the James Beard Foundation’s website, and each year there are hundreds of entrants. The Foundation’s Restaurant and Chef Award committee and a large panel of judges works to narrow the list down to semifinalists. That list is then narrowed down to nominees, and finally, winners, all overseen by James Beard volunteers.

This year, Mississippi is proud to have two semifinalists, both located in Jackson. The first is Hunter Evans of Elvie’s, a semifinalist for Best Chef, South, which includes the states of Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana and Puerto Rico.

As a hospitality management major at University of Mississippi, Hunter discovered his love for cooking under the helm of acclaimed James Beard award winning chef John Currence, who won the award in 2009 as chef of City Grocery in Oxford. Evans continued his training at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. A Jackson native with strong New Orleans ties, he named his restaurant, Elvie’s, after his grandmother. The

food served in the restaurant is inspired by the time spent in his grandmother’s New Orleans kitchen and his travels through Europe. The restaurant’s website describes the menu as “a modern take on classic French cuisine through the lens of Southern culinary traditions and ingredients.”

In the Best New Restaurant category, Joseph Sambou’s restaurant, Sambou’s African Kitchen, is one you may not have discovered yet. The restaurant on County Line Road in Jackson was opened in March 2022 by Joseph Sambou, who immigrated to the United States with his family in 2007. His sister, Bibian, is the chef. Sambou’s African kitchen serves dishes from the family’s native Gambia, as well as dishes from Ethiopia and other African countries.

Sambou’s dishes are heavily spiced but can be toned down if requested. Everything is made from scratch daily. Meat is marinated in lemon juice and cooked slow to draw out the flavors. While the restaurant is their business, it is also an opportunity for the family to share African culture with Mississippians.

The awards nominees will be announced on March 29, and the winners will be announced at a gala awards ceremony on June 5 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. Find out more at JamesBeard. org. edm

“If you board it, they will come!” says Meagan Brown, “The BakerMama” and mother of four. Taking her first cues from her mother, who filled the dinner table’s lazy Susan and allowed people to help themselves, Brown now teaches her children to share and make choices to have a healthy relationship with food.

In Beautiful Boards, Brown shares what she calls “the snack board mind-set,” and asserts that any meal can be boarded. She also subscribes to well-known adage that we eat first with our eyes, and her boards are indeed feasts in every sense of the word. In three easy steps – gather ingredients and serving dishes, pile on the bounty, and eat! – Brown offers great ways to celebrate almost any holiday, event, or time of year.

Her list of “everything you need to get to start building” includes a wooden board (she recommends a 20” hardwood circle), serving bowls in various sizes ( 8 oz., 3 oz., and 1 oz.), cheese knives, small spoons, a honey dipper, and serving utensils. Remember, also, to prepare small serving plates, napkins, and toothpicks or forks.

When it comes to the actual ingredients, Brown insists that the sky is the limit and the only barriers are your imagination and

Beautiful Boards: 50 Amazing Snack Boards for Any Occasion, by

Maegan Brown

your palate. She has a few general tips, though, such as to always include fruit and veggies; to mix salty, sweet, crunchy and chewy; and to pay attention to the temperature when serving items that require chilling or to be served hot. Here are just a few of more than 50 delicious boards featured in Beautiful Boards:

Princess Board – a little girl’s pink fantasy featuring watermelon, birthday cake popcorn, strawberry marshmallows, pink jelly beans and M&Ms, and pink gummy candy

Take Me Out to the Ball Game – a white, rectangular tray filled with peanuts, giant salted pretzels with mustard dipping sauce, caramel corn, pickles, and hot dogs

Winter Wonderland – Brie cheeses in three sizes (3”, 4” and 6”) form the body of a “snowman” laying in a night sky made of blueberries and popcorn “snow”

Easter Candy – formed on an oval tray, assorted pastel candies and treats such as pink yogurt pretzels, yellow Jordan almonds, light blue M&Ms and purple

jelly beans create a giant striped Easter egg. The book goes on to show how breakfast can be transformed in the Pancake Board – bacon, berries, bananas, chocolate chips, whipped cream and syrup – with all the toppings prechopped and nestled in small bowls. A similar board features bagels with tomatoes, cream cheese, lox, onions, capers, jams, and chopped fruit.

There’s even a section on Meal boards including Pizza Lovers, Build-Your-OwnTaco, Mediterranean Mezze, Grilled Cheese, and Cobb Salad. The Barbecue Board brings together ribs, grilled corn, baked beans, cole slaw, potato wedges, macaroni and cheese, and various kinds of bread.

The book ends with recipes for some of the ingredients, such as oatmeal chocolate chip bites, snack mix, Pigs-in-a-Blanket, potato latkes, and pumpkin cheese ball. Happy eating! edm

A Weekend of Art, Wine and Wheels In Ridgeland May 5-7

Three of Ridgeland’s signature events return for Art, Wine and Wheels weekend May 5-7. The Ridgeland Fine Arts Festival, The MIND Center Santé South Food and Wine Festival, and the Natchez Trace Century Ride come together for a celebration of Ridgeland’s live music, outdoor, and dining offerings.

The weekend begins and ends at Renaissance at Colony Park, where Visit Ridgeland will host a Kickoff Party on Friday, May 5. The Ridgeland Fine Arts Festival first opens its booths at 3:00 and the evening concludes with a free concert at 6:30 p.m.

The Natchez Trace Century Ride rolls on Saturday, May 6 from Old Trace Park in Ridgeland. Mississippi’s premier cycling event welcomes riders off all ages and availabilities, offering various ride distances along the scenic Natchez Trace Parkway. Registration for the ride is open at bikesignup.com and includes complimentary entrance into a Friday evening VIP Social.

The Ridgeland Fine Arts Festival continues Saturday, May 6 and Sunday, May 7. Todd Perkins has been announced as the featured artist for the annual event, a juried art festival that includes fiber, glass, painting, photography, wood, and more by some of America’s most talented artists. The pet-

friendly festival footprint features live music performances, food trucks, a Children’s Corner and Artist in Action demonstration.

Mississippi’s largest wine and food event, The MIND Center Santé South Food and Wine Festival, returns the evening of Saturday, May 6. This culinary showcase for a good cause benefits Alzheimer’s disease research and clinical care.

At its new location of St. Andrew’s Episcopal School, the event’s larger footprint will feature more vendors than ever. Attendees can sample wines from around the world paired

with food from the state’s top restaurants. Santé South affords a rare opportunity for guests to speak directly with boutique winemakers and vote on a new Taste of the South competition.

The ticket price includes entrance to the festival where guests can sample more over 120 exceptional wines and fine food samplings from many of Mississippi’s top restaurants as well as take home a signature festival wine glass. Learn more about Santé South and purchase tickets at santesouth.org. edm

Southern Soigne is Carefully and Elegantly Designed

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

Southern Soigne is perhaps one of the most unique restaurants in Jackson. It’s more of an experience than a restaurant. “Southern,” because it is located in the heart of the South with a perfect view of the gilded eagle atop the dome of the state capitol building through a dining room window. “Soigne,” (swan-yay) is word borrowed from French and means carefully or elegantly done, operated, or designed. Owner/chef Zacchaeus Golden has created a restaurant that is intentional and non-pretentious. Built as a home in the mid-1800s, the fully renovated space has three dining rooms and a foyer lounge area.

An alternate meaning for soigne is well-groomed. And Golden delivers. With his pressed and starched white chef’s coat and clean-cut good looks, he presents himself as capable and confident. Raised in Belzoni, where farm-raised catfish is king, Zach and his mother lived in his grandmother’s home. “My grandmother had a convenience store with a small restaurant that served coffee, breakfast sandwiches, smothered pork chops and such for nearby farm workers,” recalls Golden. “I spent much of my childhood there, but the only thing food related I did was to watch food shows on TV.”

While in high school, Golden moved with his mother to Mobile, Alabama. “I got my first restaurant job at the local Sonic DriveIn.” He liked the work, and was a fast learner. “I wanted to be good at everything. I car hopped, and I cooked. I got close to the manager, and he taught me to do different things.”

When it was time to go to college, Golden chose the culinary program at Bishop State Community College in Mobile. “I knew I wanted to do something hands-on, and I wanted to be taken seriously,” he remembers. While in college he worked at various upscale casual restaurants around Mobile. “I was fortunate to have a good mentor at the college,” he says.

After graduating, Zachary Engle hired Golden to cook at Shaya in New Orleans. “I began to learn modern cooking techniques, and different ways to manipulate ingredients. I began thinking about ways to take Southern food and elevate it,” he says. “I was inspired by the New York style, and haute cuisine presented as art.”

After working at a few more restaurants, Golden used the money he saved to move to San Francisco with dreams of working in a Michelin star restaurant. “Those were tough times,” he recalls. Golden worked in various restaurants around San Francisco then headed back South to New Orleans, where he worked at Palace Café and Redfish Grill, then with Nina Compton: “She ran a tight ship,” he says. All the while, Golden was sending his resume and job applications to French Laundry in Napa Valley, where getting a job is harder than getting a reservation. Finally, he got the call he’d been waiting for.

“Thomas Keller is one of the best chefs in the country,” says Golden. “He put forth a culture at The French Laundry that is so unique. Everyone there is mentored.” Soon, Golden was offered an opportunity to stage there, which is like a working interview. “I was put to work as a commis, or prep chef, where I learned to cook in the classic French style,” he recalls. After leaving The French Laundry, Golden did a brief stint at another Michelin three-star restaurant, The Inn at Little Washington in D.C., before heading back to his Mississippi roots.

On the heels of the COVID pandemic, Golden achieved his goal of opening his own restaurant: Southern Soigne opened in December 2021. Reservations are a must at Southern Soigne. “I like to keep it at around twelve people,” Golden says. Dinner consists of several courses, and typically lasts about three hours. The food is served by Margie, Golden’s mother. “She makes sure the train arrives at the station on time,” he laughs.

And while his life experiences have been vastly more sophisticated than hers, Margie, who often admits she has no idea what is on the plates she is serving, is extremely proud and supportive of her son, whom she refers to as Chef. Striving to go above and beyond on execution, Golden puts his heart and soul into his food. “I wouldn’t want a heart surgeon to put forth a halfway effort,” he says. “I’m here to satisfy people. I take it seriously.”

Learn more at SouthernSoigness.com. edm

Recipe Index

Banana Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting, 26 Chocolate Icebox Cake, 27

Dark Chocolate Pancakes with Creamy Ganache and Strawberries, 29

Roasted Beet and Goat Cheese Salad, 30

Horseradish Mashed Potatoes, 30

Roasted Whole Cauliflower, 31

Till We Eat Again

Green Thumb vs. Mississippi Sun

BY JAY REED

I’ve long been an advocate for locally grown vegetables and fruits. I love my local farmer’s market. I’ve been a member of at least two Community Supported Agriculture groups (CSA’s). But when it comes to hyper-local agricultural production- i.e., my own backyardthere has been far more advocacy than production.

Ten or so years ago I attempted my first container garden. And by “container,” I mean five-gallon buckets from the hardware store, with little holes drilled near the bottom for drainage, because that’s what the article on hardware store bucket gardening suggested. I started with a couple of tomato plants and some bell peppers. And at the end of that season, for all my grand efforts, I maybe got one pepper, a literal handful of cherry tomatoes, and a stack of buckets that couldn’t hold water anymore.

After that I figured I’d try my hand at raising herbs. A friend at the farmer’s market sold a wide variety of seedlings: all I had to do was keep them watered, make sure they had a bit of sunshine, and harvest to my heart’s content. Well, I harvested them just fine. Then the Mississippi sun came in full force and my watering (or lack thereof) couldn’t pass muster. I didn’t give up on the herbs quite as fast as I gave up on the tomatoes, though.

Another summer I tried a cutesy little herb garden kit and got enough leaves for a couple of Caprese salads, then bye-bye, basil. Last summer I had a really good-looking basil plant grown from a flat sponge-looking thing that had seeds embedded in it. I put it in soil, watered it, and it actually worked! I still have an ice tray full of chopped basil in oil in my freezer from that plant. That one got my hopes up. A recipient (or victim) of my eat-growlocal advocacy gave me another full-grown plant, knowing (or wishfully thinking) that I was into that sort of thing and would keep it up - or at least eat more of it than they would. I set it on my back porch and promptly forgot about it. A few weeks later I went out back and found an array of black, shriveled up sticks in a pot; it took me a while to even realize it had once been a thriving basil plant.

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, co-hosts two podcasts and blogs at www.eatsoneate.com.

Then, last summer, I received a bit of green thumb grace. A friend of my mother’s had started way more tomato plants than he wanted to manage. They were healthy plants (I was not yet involved) in at least a half dozen varieties. He was looking to share a few, so I did my research. Of course, I didn’t look to see which ones were survivors - hindsight is 20/20 - I wanted to see if they were sweet, what size the full-grown fruits would be, and if they’d look cool in an Instagram salad. I ended up with three plants: Mountain Magic, Cherokee Carbon, and Bella Rosa. A good little variety.

I did essentially what I did before: bought new buckets (the old ones had disintegrated due to lack of use), drilled new holes, put a few rocks in the bottom for drainage, and bought soil specifically for container gardens. I transplanted the seedlings. I brought antique tomato cages from my grandfather’s house in Belmont, hoping they would bring some good luck. I even staked them once they had some height. Most importantly, I set two alarms on my phone - before work and after work - reminding me to water the blessed things. Turns out that’s pretty important. Guess what? I got tomatoes this time. I didn’t have so many that I set up a roadside tailgate stand, but I did have a handful sitting on my counter on a regular basis. And I would have had more if the birds hadn’t enjoyed them as much as I did. But I got tomatoes. And I got them consistently. And I built dishes from them. I fried them green. I made a sandwich. The basil plant was still alive at the time, so I bought mozzarella for one salad, cucumber and feta cheese for another. I popped a few in my mouth straight off the vine. I was thrilled. Then came the heat wave; watering alarms turned into fire alarms. Apparently one green thumb wasn’t enough; it seems two (or more) are required to grow tomatoes through a Mississippi summer. But like a gambler with just enough wins to prod him into one more bet, I will most definitely be trying my hand at gardening again.

Bill Dabney Photography