eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI: December/January 2022 Issue

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI The Mississippi Gift Co. | Campbell’s Bakery | Southern Sisters Gourmet

VOLUME 10, NUMBER 6 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

e d a m e m o h , y s a E s t a e r T y a d i l o H Celebrate the Holidays Right

Whether it’s sweet treats or hors d’oeuvres, serve a delicious holiday spread this season December/January 2022 December 2021/January 2022

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Local Christmas Festivals

Looking for a way to celebrate the holiday? We’ve got a list of Christmas festivals near you all month long

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Holiday Catering in JXN

BY ASPEN HANSEN

W

hen it comes to the holidays, those anointed with the task of cooking bear a heavy weight. Even if you enjoy cooking, a classically large, rich holiday meal can be daunting. However, Jackson has several different kitchens that are happy to serve your family and guests a delicious, mess-free meal this holiday season.

Saltine - 622 Duling Avenue No matter whether you’re hosting a smaller meal for family and friends or a large formal event, Saltine offers a wide range of dishes and catering styles for the holiday season. Saltine’s family-style catering menu makes it easy to pick up and set up a buffet-style feast. With options like salads, shrimp and grits, Nashville hot chicken, bacon-wrapped meatloaf and po’boys, you can order individual servings, so each guest can enjoy exactly what they want.

Side dishes include sweet potatoes, garlic mashed potatoes, cabbage, corn on the cob, butter beans, black-eyed peas and brussels sprouts.

Saltine even offers breakfast for parties of at least 25 people. If you’re hosting company for more than just dinner, this is a great way to feed a crowd and get your festive days started right. Options include chicken biscuits, a scrambler (egg, veggies, cheese), potato hash (with onions and bell peppers) and fresh fruit.

For more information, visit jackson.saltinerestaurant.com/catering/ for a full catering menu.

Nick Wallace Culinary Voted best chef in Jackson for the last four years, Chef Nick Wallace is a Mississippian who has made appearances on “Food Network” and in “Southern Living Magazine.” As you can imagine, his catering services are incredible.

The catering menu includes options such as breakfast buffets, boxed lunches and dinner buffets. With items like Cheese Grits, Seafood Cake Benedict, Southern Pecan Cinnamon Rolls, classic cold sandwiches, Beer Can Chicken and Fried Black Tea Brined Chicken, holiday guests will be amazed with a catered spread from Nick Wallace Culinary.

For more information, visit nickwallaceculinary.com.

1908 Provisions - 734 Fairview Street Located in the historic Fairview Inn, 1908 Provisions is more than a hotel restaurant—it also caters for events of all sizes.

2 • December 2021/January 2022

Whether you’re looking for a buffet-style spread, breakfast or individual meals to occupy the table this holiday, here are just a few options within Jackson that are sure to be crowd winners.

Catering for your holiday can vary from just desserts, a potato bar (complete with jalapenos, salsa, bacon, cheese and more) or a full dinner.

You can also order from the restaurant’s daily menu for pickup, ensuring that each person in your group can enjoy a meal just for them. Menu items include Boudin Crusted Redfish, Braised Lamb Shank or even the 1908 Burger, topped with horseradish aioli, caramelized onions and smoked gouda.

For more information and the full menu, visit fairviewinn. com/1908provisions or the restaurant’s Facebook page at www. facebook.com/1908Provisions.

Mangia Bene - 4465 I-55 North Well-known for its catering services, Mangia Bene is a great option during the holiday season.

From pastries to sandwiches, Italian cuisine, salads, sides, festive cookies and desserts, you can put together a stress-free spread for any guest.

Mangia Bene includes Broad Street, BRAVO! and Sal & Mookie’s. Whether you’re looking for breakfast, lunch or even cocktails, this catering business has your holiday event covered.

Items offered include tray-style serving or box lunches available at any of the three restaurants.

For more information or full menus, visit mangiabene-catering.com.

Sugar’s Place – 168 East Griffith Street Family-run restaurant Sugar’s Place centers their menu around Southern comfort food. Not only is the food great year-round, but especially during the holidays.

The yearly holiday catering menu at Sugar’s Place features Southern classics like Sugar’s Deep-Fried Turkey, cornbread dressing, collard greens, macaroni and cheese and honeybun cake. Each dish is prepared just as owner Glenda Barner’s mother taught her. No matter what you choose, your holiday spread is sure to be a taste of home for the holidays.

To place an order and learn about the full catering menu, call Glenda Barner at 601-750-6562.

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

CONTENTS December 2021/January 2022 Volume 10 Number 6

36 37 22 in this issue in every issue 6 From the Editor 7

What’s Happening

10 Fabulous Foodie Finds 12 A Taste of Magnolia 48 Recipe Index 51 Till We Eat Again

4 • December 2021/January 2022

14 FRESH FROM THE FARM: Uncle Leo’s Sorghum

30 LEANNE DOSS GAULT: Cooking, Coping and Learning

18 EASY, HOMEMADE HOLIDAY TREATS: 3 Simple Sweet Treats for Your Holiday Celebration

36 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND: Melissa Cookston

24 CAMPBELL’S BAKERY: Setting the Standard for Bakeries in the Magnolia State 26 HOLIDAY SHOPPING WITH THE MISSISSIPPI GIFT COMPANY 27 DEEP SOUTH DINING: Bringing Back Radio Shows

39 TOP “INSTAGRAMMABLE” RESTAURANT IN MISSISSIPPI 40 MISSISSIPPI MADE: Southern Sisters Gourmet 42 RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT: The Blue Biscuit

28 CHRISTMAS FESTIVALS NEAR YOU

44 FROM THE BOOKSHELF: “The Cozy Christmas Movie Cookbook”

30 EXPERIENCE COLUMBIA: A Winter Wonderland

46 RAISE YOUR GLASS: Wonderbird Spirits

ON THE COVER: Coconut Cornflake Cookies by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 22.

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

{ from the editor }

Holiday Time Magic

BY REBECCA FENDING

The annual return of winter is just around the corner, which means cooler temperatures and warm recipes. Nostalgia seems to replace the air this time of year, and with it comes a sense of longing for holiday celebrations from when we were younger. It used to be that Christmas time was magic. It was Christmas magic, and magic because it was Christmas. However, looking back at those cherished childhood memories, it’s clear that the ethereal element of “magic” was mainly to do with home.

The communally shared spirit in the last couple of months of the year permeates the air—an aerosol bottle of cinnamon spice and festive frenzy. As a child, you can’t wait to see what’s under the tree, which family members will be visiting that year, and the goodie spread that Grandma has surely worked on for the last three weeks.

But for most adults, it seems that the holiday season is all about gift-giving rather than receiving, and spending time with family. As uncertainty about life, celebrations and holidays drags on, the little things are nearly invaluable when it comes to this time of year. Whether the stress of holiday planning has taken over your schedule, or if you are just excited to carry out your typical holiday plans, be sure to savor the moment.

Speaking of savor, the majority of what this time of year centers around is food, specifically sweets.

Although I do love indulging in treats during the holidays, I favor making them. Below is a very simple recipe for Oreo truffles. This recipe is by no means creative, but it’s something I’ve made for the past few years for our family’s Christmas, and they are always in high demand. I tend to make just a few extra to send home with those who request these truffles make an appearance.

Modify this recipe however you like! Use flavored Oreos, different sprinkles or even flavor your candy coating to add a certain flair that will make these a must-make for each holiday occasion.

WHITE CHOCOLATE OREO TRUFFLES Ingredients: • 1 regular-sized package of DoubleStuf Oreos • 8 oz. cream cheese, softened • 24 oz. vanilla almond bark • Sprinkles of choice, or any other garnish you’d like To Prepare: 1. Put the packaged Oreo cookies into a gallon freezer bag. Gently crush into a semi-fine crumb or until your liking. Be sure to keep some sizeable chunks to add texture.

2. Pour the cookie crumbs into a bowl and add softened cream cheese block. Fold gently until well combined.

3. Line a baking sheet with foil or wax paper.

Portion out about a tablespoon-sized ball of the mixture. Roll into a ball and place on the sheet.

When all mixture has been used, place the sheet in the freezer for about 30 minutes.

4. While the truffles are freezing, start melting your candy coating or almond bark according to packaging instructions. Once the chocolate is melted, let cool to a warm temperature. (Do NOT start coating truffles if chocolate is hot... I learned that the hard way.)

5. Using a fork or skewer, dip the truffles into the white chocolate. Let any excess chocolate drip off before placing the truffle back on the sheet.

Sprinkle any garnishing touches you may want.

Place truffles back in freezer until the chocolate is set.

6. Put truffles in an airtight container and store in refrigerator. Truffles can last in the fridge for about one week. edm

EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Connected Community Media Group, 10971 Four Seasons Pl. Ste. 211, Crown Point, IN 46307. Periodicals postage paid at Madison, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please mail changes of address to P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

6 • December 2021/January 2022

{ what’s happening }

MOD Burger Opening Location in Tupelo

M

OD Burgers, a fastcasual burger restaurant, will soon open its doors in Tupelo in the recently completed Midtown Pointe II building on the corner of Varsity Drive and South Gloster Street.

MOD Burger specializes in made-to-order burgers and fries and offers classic hamburgers and cheeseburgers, as well as other creative burgers like a mac and cheese burger and a peanut butter bacon burger. All burgers are

cooked fresh at the time of order and served on a Martin’s potato bun.

MOD Burger is the sister restaurant to Oxford Burger Company located on the square in Oxford and is owned by Tupelo native Kada Utley Stephenson, her husband, Chris Stephenson, and their college friend, Patrick McNulty. edm

Crumbl Cookies Opening in Madison

A

specialty cookie store that offers over-thetop weekly flavors, Crumbl Cookies is set to open in Madison later this year in the old Campbell’s Bakery location in the Colony Crossing strip.

Crumbl Cookies recently went viral on TikTok with their funky and fun flavors like Funfetti, Double Fudge Brownie, Pumpkin Cake, Buckeye Brownie, Caramel Popcorn and Classic Sugar.

Certain flavors are served cold and others served warm, and the menu changes weekly.

Construction began in October with hopes to open within the coming months. edm

Vampire Penguin Cold Dessert Boutique Opening in Southaven’s Silo Square

V

ampire Penguin, a cold dessert boutique, is set to open their new store in Silo Square in Southaven later this year. Vampire Penguin will serve light, fluffy, and creamy shaved ice with several flavor combos to choose from.

These shaved ice desserts are gluten free and have four times less sugar and calories than yogurt and ice creams.

Follow along on the Vampire Penguin Facebook page for sneak peeks and updates. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

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eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI Debbie Hansen Publisher/Editor

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI is published six times a year by Connected Community Media Group 10971 Four Seasons Place Suite 211 Crown Point IN 46307

HAPPY HOLIDAYS may you eat, drink and be merry

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If you’re a subscriber and your address has changed, please let us know. The post office doesn’t provide forwarding service for the magazine and we don’t want you to miss an issue. Send your change of address to us at P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130 or e-mail us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com.

Julian Brunt Lisa LaFontaine Bynum Divian Conner Melissa Cookston Susan Marquez Brandi Perry Jay Reed Contributors

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 9

{ fabulous foodie finds }

T

A Very Mississippi Holiday

he most exciting time of the year is upon us once again, and with that, the shopping. When it comes to holiday gift-giving, most people struggle with gift inspiration.

If you are one of those people, The Mississippi Gift Company is sure to offer something for just about anyone on your list.

From home cooks to candle lovers or even kids, here are just a few items to help you cross off a few people on your nice list this year.

For more, visit www.themississippigiftcompany.com.

Festive and Native Kitchen Towel - $20 Holiday cooking means holiday kitchen towels. Help someone on your holiday shopping list get in the festive mood even while in the kitchen. Made of 100% cotton, this towel is ultra-absorbent when it comes to big spills or a meal that requires lots of handwashing. Functionality and fashion meet in the making of this towel.

View this and many other kitchen towels on The Mississippi Gift Company website by searching “kitchen towels.”

Capri Blue Candles - $38 for 19 oz.

This candle brand is known for producing chic and unique candle pots and scents. Their holiday collection ranges from fresh, woodsy aromas to sugary, tropical fruits. Crystal Pine, featured here, emits a winter wonderland scent filled with frosted fir, snowy woods, pine and sage.

The 19-ounce candles offer a burn time of 25 hours. As a tip, instruct whoever you gift these candles to that the melted wax from the first burn should reach the sides. This ensures that the candle will burn evenly for each use after the first, even if you only light it for 15 minutes!

Copper Mississippi Ornament - $16 From Terri Dallriva in Clinton, MS, this copper piece is a perfect touch to the Christmas tree, windows or anywhere else you want. Made to hang wherever you see fit, this piece comes in one finish—with reds, greens and coppers. This ornament is designed to enhance and compliment any decor. Because of the uniqueness of the treatments, no two pieces are alike. Measures five inches long and three inches wide.

Kitchen Memories Cookbook – $18.95 It’s a cookbook, a memory book and an activity book. This kid’s cookbook and free-style memory book guarantees hours of fun and a lifetime of memories for a family. This lively collection of recipes features easy-to-follow favorite recipes for dishes your family will love.

This book is 256 pages of fun for kids interested in learning how to help in the kitchen.

10 • December 2021/January 2022

Musee Celebration Bath Bombs - $27 Although these are labeled as “celebration,” you don’t necessarily have to celebrate anything but yourself when using these. Bath bombs are a great thing to gift someone who needs a bit of encouragement to indulge in a more regularly scheduled self-care regimen.

Not only are these bath bombs a great treat or celebratory fizzing addition to a bath, but they also include gifts inside.

This bath balm set features fresh scents of lavender, sugar and vanilla. The surprises inside each balm are a Rainbow Flash Tattoo®, bath confetti and cloth hair tie.

Charcuterie in a Box - $75 This box is perfect for anyone who was recently gifted a charcuterie board, or those who have been dying to try the trend that’s taken over social media within the last year.

In this box is everything you need to make your own delicious and fabulous charcuterie board at home. Each box contains Classic Cheese Straws, Sweet BBQ Pretzels, Hot Pickled Okra, Praline Pecans, Southern Trash, Raspberry Chipotle Finishing Sauce and Summer Sausage. Assemble on a cutting board or any tray you can find, and you’ll have an instant hit!

Wolfe Bird - $58 From Wolfe Studio in Jackson, Mississippi, these porcelain birds are a huge hit for the gift-giving season.

The Wolfe Studio was established in 1946 by Karl and Mildred Wolfe, and now their daughter continues the work. Most birds measure 3 to 5 inches tall and 2 to 5 inches wide unless otherwise stated. Please note that each bird is unique and individually hand glazed, and the coloration varies slightly from bird to bird.

View this bird as well as its many other siblings on The Mississippi Gift Company website.

Create Your Own Basket – Price varies If you don’t see exactly what you want in a pre-made gift basket, you can create your own! Start by choosing a basket, box or Mississippi shared wicker basket. Choose your size and fill it with the necessary number of items from around the rest of the website.

This option makes it super easy to make and ship a customized gift basket for a person anywhere in the country. Even if they can’t be with you for the holiday, they can celebrate from afar with your handpicked gifts.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

Taste of Magnolia a

DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com.

Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

12 • December 2021/January 2022 12 • December 2021/January 2022

Holiday Bites

BY DIVIAN CONNER

A

fter a ‘different’ holiday season last year, things seem to be getting back to normal. Families and friends are planning amazing holiday gatherings, and are looking forward to a holiday season that will be a definite big bang. Shoppers are opting for larger turkeys and hams to accommodate their larger than usual gatherings, and we are all looking forward to this special time of year.

It has been a long road, and while the road ahead is still winding, the holidays offer what they do each year, something to look forward to—hope. It is my hope that my children always remember just how much family, friends and people, in general, are worthy of a kind word, consideration and the same hope we believe. It is hope that keeps us going—the hope for brighter and better days ahead. The holidays are the perfect time to reflect on all that gives us hope and to be thankful.

With the holidays, there are not only moments of thankfulness and givingness, moments of livelihood, sharing, festive music, laughter, embarrassing moments of having way too much fun. But we are deserving.

We deserve to let our hair down and just live in those moments. It is a time where time itself seems to stop. We see ourselves and those around us dancing in slow motion, and the memory reel in our heads cranks into overdrive. Those moments, preserved forever and ever to replay in our thoughts and hearts.

While last year was a bit different, this year brings us back to the true meaning of the holidays: spending time with those who are most important to you, showing strangers that kindness still exists, and loving ourselves and others freely.

This holiday season, just as many others, I have several gatherings planned.

Menus have been decided upon—sort of—and the guest list has been drafted.

I have these fancy ideas in my head, and I have thrown caution to the wind and decided to just go with whatever I dream of doing. I am not holding back.

When it comes to parties, the good times that I look forward to having go hand in hand with good food. It is always my thought that good food can mean a gosh darn good time. People will remember two things when it comes to a party: how much fun they did or did not have and how good the food was or wasn’t. It is no secret that those two things are exactly the center of my party planning.

When it comes to setting the menu, I like to keep it different, simple and good. This year, I wanted to bring open-faced sandwiches to the table but in a much smaller version and with a definite crunch factor. You can take your most favorite food and turn it into a miniature bite-sized version that guests would love.

I am a sucker for a good pulled pork sandwich, Kentucky Hot Browns and Reubens. This year I decided to put them on the party menu with a small twist.

And oh boy, I am so glad I did. edm

PULLED PORK CRISPS

SOUTHERN BROWNS Ingredients: • Crisps or mini toasted bread slices • Cracked pepper shaved turkey • Alabama BBQ sauce (recipe below) • Sliced Campari tomatoes • Bacon Alabama BBQ Sauce Ingredients: • 1 cup mayo • 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce • 1 teaspoon horseradish • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic • 1 teaspoon black pepper To Make: 1. Slice bacon into one-inch pieces and cook until crisp.

2. Place turkey on your crisps, a slice of tomato, bacon and add a squeeze of Alabama BBQ sauce.

Ingredients: • BBQ pulled pork • Crisps or mini toasted bread slices • Pear coleslaw (recipe below) • Pickled okra Pear Coleslaw Ingredients: • ½ cup shredded cabbage • 1/3 cup thinly sliced pear • 1/3 teaspoon black pepper • ½ teaspoon sugar • 2-3 teaspoon apple cider vinegar • 2-4 tablespoon mayo (add according to your liking) To Make: 1. Mix all ingredients until well combined.

2. Top your crisps with the BBQ pulled pork, a dab of coleslaw and complete with a slice of pickled okra.

Note: I used Rustic Bakery’s Apricot, Pistachio and Brandy Artisan Crisps for the Reubens and Lesley Stowe’s Raincoast Rosemary, Raisin Pecan Crackers for the other two.

BITE-SIZED REUBENS Ingredients: • Crisps or mini toasted bread slices • Cajun shaved turkey • Coarse mustard • Sauerkraut To Make: 1. Place turkey on top of your crisps, place half a teaspoon of sauerkraut on top. Finish off with coarse mustard. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ fresh from the farm }

Uncle Leo’s Sorghum:

Sweetenin’ Up the South

BY JAY REED

I

n the world of sweeteners, words get thrown around a lot. Or perhaps I should be more polite and just say, when it comes to sweeteners, there is a lot of vocabulary to negotiate. Even when you eliminate the crystallized category—cane sugar, demerara, turbinado, powdered, dark and light brown—and focus on the pourable kinds, there are still a lot to keep up with. Some are brand names that are more or less their own version, like Blackburn’s or Lyle’s Golden. There are all kinds of varieties of honey.

14 • December 2021/January 2022

Maple stands like a towering…tree…above all the rest, for sure, if you hail from a northeastern state or married into one of those families (raising my hand). I’m not sure how you define pancake syrup, but however that shakes out, a family of names emerges here, too, like Hungry Jack and Mrs. Butterworth, who host a big family reunion at the Log Cabin.

Then we get down to the basics. These are the syrups whose honor families defend at all costs because that’s what their

grandparents made, or maybe their parents—or as we will soon see, the current generation. These are the patriarch syrups. And this is where the syrup vocabulary debate gets sticky. Perhaps you’ve heard of ribbon cane, or pure cane, or sorghum, or molasses, or blackstrap or likely some combination of those terms. As best I can tell, trying to define syrup is akin to saying what kind of barbecue is best: you may be right, but somebody is still going to argue with you.

When our local farmer’s market re-opened early this summer, I met two vendors for the first time: Willow Farms and Bakery and Sky Blossom Flower Farm. As the names suggest, Willow brought produce and baked goods; Sky Blossom had flowers.

I found Willow Farms first because… cookies. Lemon crinkle cookies got oohs and ahhs when I brought them home, the baguettes were perfect for our family’s favorite sandwiches, and the produce was beautiful. In the middle of that bounty were some jars full of dark syrup, with labels that read, “Uncle Leo’s Pure Sorghum Syrup.” I bought a jar.

Later, I noticed that Sky Blossom, which had amazing flower bouquets but no other food products, was also selling Uncle

Leo’s. I made the observation out loud and soon learned that Jamey (from Willow Farms) and Skyler (from Sky Blossom) were both married to Willers brothers (David and Ethan): greatnephews of the actual Uncle Leo. Products like this fascinate me, particularly when locally made, so I asked questions. Yes, I learned, they made it themselves right outside of town. And yes, I could come to watch them make it. (I guess I got right to the point!) Once I knew that the time for sorghum making would be in the fall, I stayed in touch, and in early October, I went to Maben for the first sorghum milling of the season.

Before I headed for the farm, I did a little pondering from my past. From what I had seen personally, sorghum took two very different paths. I lived in the Middle East for a few years and saw fields of sorghum that I first mistook for corn. Those crops were probably used for animal feed or made into flour for bread and other grain-based dishes.

However, my earliest memories were indeed of syrup, though it’s not something my family kept around very much. As my interest in food and trying new things grew, I began to acquire eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

syrups that weren’t Blackburn’s (my family’s go-to) or pure maple (the pantry staple of my wife’s family.) At the moment, in the same cabinet as Uncle Leo, I have a bottle of “unsulphured organic molasses” that claims to be made from organic sugar cane. On the back of the label, the ingredient list is short: “blackstrap molasses.” I also have a can of “sorghum molasses table syrup,” made semi-locally (in Mississippi), which lists these ingredients: corn syrup, sorghum syrup and citric acid to prevent crystallization. It’s not hard to see where the confusion comes from.

When it comes to the technical definitions, however, it’s pretty simple. Sorghum syrup comes from the sorghum plant.

Sweet stalks are crushed to produce juice, that juice is boiled to evaporate the water, and syrup is the result. True molasses, however, begins with sugar cane. The juices of those crushed stalks are also concentrated by boiling, which results in crystallized sugar; molasses is a by-product of that process. The process can actually be repeated with the same batch another time or two, ultimately producing the darker, less sweet, blackstrap molasses.

I went out to the Willers farm early on an October Saturday to see the process for myself. The first thing that caught my attention was the trailer load of sorghum cane harvested by hand a day or two before—cut with a machete and stripped of its leaves using heavy gloves. The field where it was grown was just a short four-wheeler ride from the milling shed. Ethan took me out to see where this batch had been cut, and where the next was growing. Milling days are largely determined by when the sorghum plants have matured, and this stand was ready for harvest.

Meanwhile, David and another brother, Nathaniel, along with their father Jeff and a few of their kids, were back at the shed, pushing the cane through the 3-roller mill, built somewhere around 1903. As the story goes, the mill belonged to their great-uncle Leo, and David remembers going to help as a very young boy. Currently, the wheels of the mill are turned using parts from other machinery that have been cleverly set up so that a tractor does most of the hard labor. But they do keep the original part designed to connect to a pole with a donkey on the other end, that on milling day would make more laps than 16 • December 2021/January 2022

a NASCAR driver.

The mill’s primary parts are the heavy wheels that crush the stalks and extract the juice from the sorghum cane. The cane is fed into the wheels, and the juice runs down a spout into a bucket through a cheesecloth filter. The woody parts of the plant come out the other side and contribute to composting.

Throughout the day, adjustments are made on the wheels to control the speed and ensure the juice is not lost.

Once the bucket is full, that juice is poured into a settling tank. The larger particles that make it through the filter settle to the bottom, allowing for a clearer juice. Once the settling period is over, the juice moves through a pipe to the boiling tank, which sits atop a wood-fired furnace.

The boiling tank looks like a maze, albeit a simple one, easy to solve. It is essentially a long, steel rectangle with baffles, sending the syrup slowly around corners until it reaches the end.

By that time, assuming everything goes the way it should, the juice (initially about 15-20% sugar) has boiled down to a syrup (now about 75-80% sugar). The ideal temperature for pulling the syrup out of the tank is right around 228 degrees, but there’s not necessarily a thermometer handy that can accurately measure that kind of temperature. Over the eight or so years they’ve been doing this, the Willers brothers have learned that there is both art and science in the process.

Simply put for syrup nerd novices like me, the syrup boils at a certain temperature when it reaches the ideal percentage of sugar content, and that’s the optimal state they look for. However, the art comes from the tried-and-true methods of observation—is it the color they like? Is it dripping off a spoon too fast or too slow? And don’t forget the good old-fashioned tastebud test. But be careful: it’s hot at that end of the tank. Once it’s pulled, it passes through yet another filter into the final container, and when it gets cool enough, it goes into jars that Jo Anne Willers (the brothers’ mom) has prepared. On an average day, they get about a gallon of syrup from ten gallons of juice.

Since sorghum is a natural product, it does have a certain terroir. Batches made on different days or from different varieties of sorghum will vary in color, flavor and viscosity. All kinds of things can affect the process, and even if they can’t be controlled, they are monitored, such as outside temperature, humidity and barometric pressure. Even the furnace has to be built so that smoke from the fire won’t seep into the flavor of the final product.

The process is always a family project, sometimes a neighborhood event. Three generations of Willerses are involved, and this time, there was one food nerd there to document the goings-on, push a few stalks through the mill and join in the final product tasting.

I asked what they used the syrup for in their own kitchens, besides Jamey’s sorghum cookies that Jeff was passing around.

Baking is obvious, and with the right guidance with ratios, it can be substituted for at least a portion of the sugar content in many recipes. But the jar label itself says, “Not just for biscuits!”

Lots of “outside the cookie” ideas were bounced around by the other family members, including adding to soups, glazing meats, drizzling on sweet potatoes or topping pancakes (though I was warned, it may not soak in like other syrups.) One brother said that he enjoys a little pour in his red beans and rice. I like it as a mild sweetener in my overnight oats or plain Greek yogurt, but most of what’s in my jar—thanks to a sorghum latte I had once at a biscuit joint in Alabama—goes into my morning coffee.

Sorghum syrup—Uncle Leo’s, especially—is truly a product of the land. The cane is grown, cut, crushed, boiled and bottled on the same small farm. The earth provides an incredibly versatile plant, which (depending on the variety) can provide forage, flour or sweet fluid. And families like the Willerses, thanks to the legacy of Uncle Leo and a 100-year-old piece of machinery, transform that cane to give us the gift of syrup.

To learn more or keep up with Uncle Leo’s Sorghum, visit their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/UncleLeosSorghum. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

Easy, Homemade

Holiday Treats 18 • December 2021/January 2022

BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

W

hat’s the holiday season without a few treats? These yummy holiday favorites are sure to please a crowd. They can also be made ahead of time for stress-free entertaining. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

Southern Jezebel Sauce

20 • December 2021/January 2022

Hello Dolly Bars

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

SOUTHERN JEZEBEL SAUCE MAKES ABOUT FIVE CUPS Ingredients: • 1 (18-ounce) jar pineapple preserves • 1 (18-ounce) jar apple jelly • 3 tablespoons dried mustard • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper • 1 (6.5 ounce) jar prepared horseradish 1. Heat the pineapple preserves, apple jelly, mustard and black pepper together in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir occasionally, for about five minutes until the sauce is warm and all the ingredients are evenly combined.

2. Remove from heat and stir in horseradish.

3. Allow the sauce to cool. Then cover and refrigerate for 8 hours before serving.

4. Serve poured over cream cheese with crackers.

COCONUT CORNFLAKE COOKIES MAKES 2 DOZEN COOKIES Ingredients: • 3 egg whites • 1 cup sugar • 1 cup sweetened shredded coconut • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • 1 cup chopped pecans • 4 cups cornflakes crushed To make: 1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees F. 2. Beat egg whites on medium high. Gradually add sugar.

Continue to beat egg whites until sugar is dissolved and soft peaks form. Mixture will be very glossy.

3. Gently fold in coconut, vanilla, pecans and corn flakes.

Drop heaping tablespoons onto a greased cookie sheet.

4. Bake about 45 minutes until cookies are set. Remove from the pan to cool while they are still warm.

5. Once cool, store in an airtight container.

HELLO DOLLY BARS APPROXIMATELY 9 BARS Ingredients: • 1 ½ cups finely crushed graham crackers • 1/3 cup butter melted • 3 tablespoons sugar • 1 cup chocolate chips • 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut • 1 cup pecans chopped • 1 (14 oz.) sweetened condensed milk 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Combine graham cracker crumbs, melted butter and sugar.

Press mixture into the bottom of a greased 8 x 8-inch baking dish. Bake crust for 7 minutes. Allow to cool completely.

3. Layer chocolate chips, coconut and pecans over graham cracker crust. Pour condensed milk over the top.

4. Bake for 25 minutes. Cut into squares before serving.

22 • December 2021/January 2022

Coconut Cornflake Cookies

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

Campbell’s Bakery: Setting the Standard for Bakeries in the Magnolia State

ARTICLE BY BRANDI PERRY

L

ouis Campbell returned to Jackson in 1945 after being a cook and baker in the Army. Immediately after returning, he got a job at Jitney Jungle (now County Market) in Fondren, but he felt as though he would be happier working for

24 • December 2021/January 2022

himself. So, in 1962, he and his wife Jessie opened his bakery in Fondren, where it still sits today. Mr. Campbell instantly became famous for his teacakes and cookies, both baked fresh every day. Visitors can still taste both of these products today and, you guessed it, made following the same recipe.

Campbell’s Bakery soon established itself as one of the premier bakeries in the state, making from scratch cakes, cookies and their famous teacakes. For 20 years, he made cakes for weddings and other events statewide, brought smiles to countless faces old and young, but in 1982 he decided to sell it. Franklin Aldridge picked the bakery up right where the Campbell’s left off, and he was able to continue the bakery’s success in a Fondren neighborhood struggling to survive.

The bakery went through an extremely difficult time between 2002 and 2011 when they welcomed and parted with five owners in just a matter of 18 months. It looked like the news would come any day that the cherished bakery would be closing its doors. With the longevity of the bakery in jeopardy, Mitchell and Natalie Moore purchased Campbell’s Bakery in January of 2011.

The Moores understood the struggles the bakery had encountered, but as a pastry chef, Mitchell was determined to put Campbell’s back on the main stage of bakeries in the state and return it to its former glory. The first thing Mitchell did was bring back Louis Campbell’s original recipe teacakes and make sure his clients knew that everything was made from scratch.

There is definitely a reason Campbell’s has been around for so long, and Moore has a theory to the longevity.

“I think Mr. Campbell gave the bakery the firmest foundation possible in his 20 years of original ownership.

I can’t tell you the number of people who will see me in a Campbell’s shirt and say, ‘Y’all did my wedding cake in 1971,’

or ‘69, or ‘65, or ‘82, on and on. That foundation served the bakery well during the next 20 years of ownership as Fondren went downhill,” Chef Moore explains. “That reputation saved the bakery when we bought it 10 years ago and tried to return it to the ‘from-scratch roots’ that it started with.”

Today, visitors can find a display case full of American-style sweets that are made from scratch. From brownies, cakes, and pies, and cookies, these daily creations are sure to bring a smile to any face that tries a bite.

Campbell’s Bakery was named the Best of Mississippi 2017 to 2019, Parents and Kids Family Favorite from 2015 to 2018, Best of Jackson 2015, 2018 and 2019, and was named Delta Magazine’s 100 Best Desserts in Mississippi. With accolades steadily being thrown Moore’s way, readers may be shocked to read what his answer was when asked what his favorite part of owning Campbell’s was: “Having kids come in for the first time and try something. The way they light up, that face is worth all the early mornings and late nights.”

Even after being declared one of the best and most storied bakeries in not only the state but throughout the southeast, Moore and his staff pride themselves on making the customer happy and delivering the best baked goods they can to them.

Even though the famous baked goods can be picked up every day of the week but Sundays, customers can special order any of their goods, including delicious and beautiful cakes for all occasions. They can also help you prepare for the holidays if you need pies, Christmas teacakes, Christmas petit fours, special cookies, special cakes or many other things. Please check out their social media pages, both Facebook and Instagram to get a look at some of the amazing products they have sold in the past. This is their busiest time of the year, so make sure you order well ahead of time to ensure they can get your product done in time.

Campbell’s Bakery has been around now for more than 60 years with no hint of slowing down anytime soon. When asked where he sees his bakery in the next five to 10 years, Moore’s answer was exactly what you would expect: “We might want to expand to have more of an online presence, but we are not going to change the way we do business or the flavors we produce.”

No matter what the future holds for Campbell’s, one thing is for certain, they are not going to change their ways just because it is easier. The bakery was founded on separating themselves from others by the way they prepare their teacakes, cookies and other goods. Moore and staff could easily start making cookies by today’s standards that would not make them any different than the rest of their competition.

Visiting Campbell’s is like a step back in time. Fondren grew and expanded around the historic bakery while they continued to hold to what works best for them. Customers will not be disappointed as they bite into a cookie or teacake that tastes as if it just came out of their grandmother’s oven.

Campbell’s Bakery is open Monday through Friday from 9 am to 6 pm, and Saturday from 10 am to 4 pm. They are located at 3013 North State Street in Jackson. If you have questions about what cakes they can make for you, if they are booked for a certain day or if you just need to place an order, please call them at 601-362-4628.

Remember, their freshly made products will not stand up to shipping, so everything has to be picked up at the store. For more information or to learn more about this historic bakery, check out campbellsbakery.ms. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

Holiday Shopping with The Mississippi Gift Company

BY REBECCA FENDING

P

ine trees, gingerbread spices, cozy blankets and lots of sweet treats mean that the holidays are officially here.

Although it is referred to as the most wonderful time of the year, the season can be overwhelming for those of us in charge of gift shopping for friends and family.

However, The Mississippi Gift Company is your best bet for keeping holiday chaos to a minimum. With countless Mississippi-made food, trinkets, clothing and anything else you can think of as a gift, this is a one-stopshop for all things you need for the holidays.

The Mississippi Gift Company is especially wonderful if you are unsure what to gift someone. Whether you are shopping for someone who wants to build a classic bar setup or someone who loves Mississippi, you are sure to find something unique, handmade or something they never knew they needed.

According to Cindy Tyler, the CEO of The Mississippi Gift Company, the best-selling gift items during the holidays (and year-round) are Peter’s Pottery, Etta B Pottery (her holiday pieces go fast), Capri Blue holiday candles, Musee holiday bath bomb gift sets, Wolfe Birds and Madison Sterling Bible verse pendants.

“Our gourmet foods are really the best sellers for us during the holidays. You can check these out on our gourmet food categories,” explains Cindy. “Our gift packages are also huge sellers both for personal gifts as well as corporate gifts. We sell all baskets, gift boxes, gift tins really well, and many customers create their own gift packages. You can find all of these on our gift packages page online.”

When asked what her favorite items offered are, Cindy explained that it really depends on who she’s

26 • December 2021/January 2022

shopping for. “I usually try to cater the gifts I give to the person receiving the gift. But some of my favorites are Wolfe Birds, Capri Blue candles and hand lotion, Glo Pals for kids and jewelry.”

When it comes to edible gifts, the possibilities are nearly endless with The Mississippi Gift Company. Cindy’s favorite food items are the raspberry chipotle sauce, cheese straws, butterscotch snaps, butterscotch pretzels and pecan turtle bites. Each of these (and so many others) make for perfect stocking stuffers from local businesses.

Not only does The Mississippi Gift Company make holiday shopping super easy with their wide selection of items, but they also make shopping for next Christmas a steal of a deal. “We have an ‘After Christmas Sale’ the day after Christmas in our store and will also include those items on our ‘Sale’ category online,” Cindy says. “All customers that subscribe to our emails will receive codes for various discounts throughout the year as a thank you for their business and support. We also have a quarterly giveaway that anyone can register for via our online store or in our retail location.”

This business operates both online and in-person for maximum convenience for shoppers. Although online tends to be the preferred method for more relaxed and leisurely browsing, The Mississippi Gift Company’s retail location is perfect for those in the Greenwood area (or even those looking for a fun day trip to Greenwood) to get their holiday shopping done locally. The retail location is 300 Howard Street, Greenwood, Mississippi.

Learn more or start your shopping at www. themississippigiftcompany.com. edm

Deep South Dining: Bringing Back Radio Shows

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

I

magine a cozy kitchen klatch, sharing recipes with friends and discussing what you have cooked or plan to cook. Now imagine that gathering including thousands of people, many from across the globe. A radio program produced at Mississippi Public Broadcasting Think Radio has made it possible for both home cooks and serious foodies to share their tips and techniques with a broad audience. Listeners of Deep South Dining can also ask questions and get answers from hosts Malcolm White and Carol Puckett, as well as from other listeners.

“It’s a fun show to do,” says Malcolm, who says the weekly radio program has loyal listeners and regular callers. The program has been on the air for years, first hosted by Deborah Hunter.

“I was an avid listener,” says Malcolm, who also hosted a show at MPB in his then-role as director of the Mississippi Arts Commission. “I hosted Mississippi Arts Hour, and I got to know Deborah from seeing her at the MPB studios. I really enjoyed her show and learned a lot about cooking from her. We became good friends.”

One week, Malcolm heard a re-run for Deep South Dining.

The next week, when he heard another re-run, he asked the director of MPB’s Think Radio, Jason Klein, if everything was OK with Deborah. “He told me she was no longer doing the show.” Malcolm thought about it for a moment and said, “I’d like to do it!” Klein called in Java Chatman, a radio producer at MPB, and the two asked Malcolm what his vision of the show would be. He immediately told them he’d like to have Carol Puckett co-host with him.

Both Malcolm and Carol have strong food backgrounds.

From being an excellent home cook to the president of Viking Hospitality, Carol also founded The Everyday Gourmet, a wildly popular retail store. She has also written the forward for numerous cookbooks in addition to being a food and entertainment consultant. Malcolm is also a home cook and the co-founder of Hal & Mal’s restaurant in Jackson. He also had a good bit of experience in radio, doing his show for the Mississippi Arts Commission, as well as the radio program on MPB called Next Stop: Mississippi, which Malcolm created and hosted when he was the Mississippi Tourism director. “I have always loved radio.

I’m very old-fashioned that way.”

Now Malcolm is joined by Carol in the studio along with Java as their producer, each Monday at 9 am for the hour-long

program, Deep South Dining. “Even if we didn’t have a single listener, I just love spending an hour each week talking food with one of my best friends,” says Malcolm.

The show focuses on recipe swaps and answering questions, like the one they got recently from someone who had a bush full of green figs. “He wanted to pick them before they froze and wanted to know what he could do with green figs. I had no idea, nor did Carol, but we told him we’d do some research and share our findings on the next show.” Folks even write letters, one correcting Malcolm’s use of pronouns. “I evidently know more about cooking than English grammar.”

Choosing the topics for the show is a collaborative effort between Carol, Malcolm and Java. “It’s been a joy working with Java,” says Carol. “He is such an important part of the show, and he brings his own personality and humor. He is way more than a producer. We are a real team.”

The show features guests each week as well. “A lot of guests are people we know,” says Malcolm. Others are suggested by booksellers at Lemuria Bookstore in Jackson. “They’ll call and let us know about cookbook authors who will be in the store for book-signings and ask if we would consider hosting an in-person event, which we love to do.” Occasionally, the show will feature a special in two or three parts, such as when they had Chef and restauranteur Sean Brock in the studio.

“I start getting excited every Sunday night,” says Carol.

“I have so many different interests when it comes to cooking, but most often, the topic of our conversations revolves around what we are cooking in our own homes.” Carol has extensive knowledge gleaned from the many professionals she has met through The Everyday Gourmet, which she opened in 1981, as well as collaborating with chefs from around the world at Viking Range. “Malcolm’s career goes back to his college days, working in restaurants.”

Malcolm explains that there are three “legs” to Deep South Dining. “We do the radio show, which is then packaged into a podcast, and last year when the Covid pandemic struck, we developed our Facebook group page, Cooking and Coping: Dining Around the Virtual Table, which has taken off.” LeAnne Doss Gault created the Facebook group and came up with the name.

“LeAnne is such a big part of Cooking and Coping,” says Carol, who first met LeAnne when the two worked at Viking Range in Greenwood.

A fourth leg is in the works. Carol has an idea of doing weekend events. “At the first event, I’d love to get all the folks who regularly post on Cooking and Coping to come,” says Carol.

“I’d love to see cooking demonstrations by some of the posters.

The events would be a natural outgrowth of everything else we are doing. Our listeners and posters on Facebook could meet faceto-face and share. Already, a lot of people have made new friends and rediscovered old friends on Cooking and Coping.” edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

C hr istmas F e sti va ls N e a r Y o u ‘Tis the season for celebration and festivals! Whether you’re looking for a festive show, local festival or want to shop small businesses and local artists, Mississippi has a number of holiday events happening all December long.

“Christmas in the Air” at The Beau Rivage Theatre – Biloxi

Totally Locally Christmas Market 2021 - Richland

For our coastal friends, this festive show is just what you need to help get you in the holiday mood this month.

From December 12 through 26, this Broadway-style show returns to the Beau Rivage Theatre. Classic and newage holiday songs will be performed by world-class singers and dancers. This show is family-friendly, featuring a feel-good holiday story told by Santa’s elves.

Image from AllEvents.in

Ticket prices range from $12.95 to $29.95, plus tax and service charge, and are available via beaurivage. com. Ticket packages are available, as well as special pricing for select groups.

Image from event Facebook page

On Saturday, December 11, this Christmas market will be held at 410 East Harper Street in Richland. The Totally Locally Christmas Market features a number of vendors for boutique shopping, arts and crafts and concessions so that you can do all of your Christmas shopping

in one place!

Previously canceled for 2020, this event is back on and bigger than ever. Entry is free, so stay all day or just pop in. For more information and updates, visit the event Facebook page at facebook.com/ richlandchristmasmarket.

Gulfport Harbor Lights Winter Festival – Gulfport Information from AARP This spectacular light show features over 1,200,000 lights across Jones Park and is presented as a walking tour or aboard a free, heated trolley.

Participants will be able to visit Santa in Santa’s Village every night, take pictures at any of the Elfie Selfie stations Image from throughout the park and enjoy event website hot chocolate, marshmallows, and concession items available for purchase. Bring your Christmas wish list to drop in the Letters to Santa mailbox as Santa Claus is there nightly through December 23.

Tickets for rides such as Santa’s Big Wheel, the Merry Go Round Carousel, Santa Express Tour Train and more are also available for purchase inside the park.

This event is happening now through December 31.

For more information, visit gulfportharborlights.com.

28 • December 2021/January 2022

Christmas Lights at Landrum’s Homestead – Laurel

Image from Landrum’s website Step back in time and enjoy Christmas the oldfashioned way at Landrum’s Homestead. December 3 and 4, 10 and 11, and 17 and 18, the Homestead will host a Christmas light celebration for the family.

The event will have Santa, a marshmallow roast, wagon rides, music, funnel cakes, beignets and hot chocolate. The estate smokehouse will also be open!

Thousands of twinkling Christmas lights cover the Homestead and pathways, making this a magical experience for all who attend. The Homestead is open

all day, with Christmas lights turned on at 4:30 pm.

and ArtPlace students.

Homestead admission is $10 and children three years old and under are free. The gem mine cost is $5, and the shooting gallery is $1 for 25 shots. For more information, visit landrums.com.

Items for sale include handmade pottery, photography, glass, posters, sweet treats and more.

20th Annual Breakfast with Santa – Vicksburg

For more information, search the event on Facebook.

12th Annual Rudolph Run – Pontotoc

Perfect for those with little ones, the 20th annual Breakfast with Santa will be held at the Vicksburg Convention Center from 8 am to 10 am.

Tickets are $7 in advance and $10 at the door. Raffle tickets are $1 for a chance to win a Christmas bag filled with toys and electronics. Tickets are for sale at the Vicksburg Convention Center box office or ticketmaster.com.

To learn more, visit visitvicksburg.com/breakfastwith-santa.

Oxford Community Market – Oxford

Image from event Facebook page

On December 11, this 12th annual run will take place.

Walkers and runners will pass through picturesque Pontotoc, Mississippithe business district and the holidaydecorated residential area.

Image from Oxford Community Market’s website

Registration is online only until December 5. Registration will be available the morning of the race (December 9) from 6 am until 7:30 am. A late fee of $5 will be assessed to any registrants who register after December 1 at 12 pm. Those who register late WILL NOT be guaranteed a t-shirt on race day.

Perfect for shopping small for Christmas, the Oxford Community Market is held every Tuesday from 3 pm to 6:30 pm. Farmers, bakers and craft makers will feature the fruits of their label at the market, making it easy to do your Christmas shopping in one place.

Event fees are $30 per individual. (Unless registering afternoon on December 1, when a $5 late fee will be assessed) A special discount will be offered to Cross County students and first responders. For these individuals, the cost of the race will be $20.

According to their website, the purpose of the Oxford Community Market includes, but is not limited to, addressing food insecurity in Oxford, Mississippi.

The Community Market connects growers and producers with customers, delivering affordable, regionally grown and nutritious foodstuffs.

For more information, visit oxfordcommunitymarket.com.

Packet pickup will be at the Pontotoc Chamber of Commerce starting Friday, December 10, from 5 pm to 7 pm. And resuming Saturday, December 11, from 7 am until 8 am when the race begins.

Learn more by searching the event at RunSignup. com. edm

Holiday Artists Market – Greenwood On December 11, from 9 am to 1 pm at ArtPlace Mississippi, this holiday market will feature local artists and their goods. The market will include handmade items and artwork for sale by local artists

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

Chri stmas in the Cit y: Experience Columbia, Mississippi: He rnando ns of a A WinterDicke Wonderland Chri stmas Fe stival ARTICLE BY BRANDI PERRY PHOTOS FROM EXPERIENCE COLUMBIA

B

All pictures are courtesy of Joey Brent Photography.

efore the Christmas season of 2018, the City of Columbia had hung Christmas banners and garland throughout Historic Downtown Columbia while a few residents built Christmas trees in Friendship Park and at the Marion County Courthouse. But, in 2018, the Christmas story that Columbia was telling stepped into the spotlight of statewide, regional and national news.

Kristian Agoglia of Looks Great Services in Columbia knew the small downtown could truly become the epitome of Mississippi if a little time and money were invested. Even though Looks Great Services does more tree work, tree removal and disaster clean-up, they also had a great deal of experience decorating commercial properties for

30 • December 2021/January 2022

special events.

A dream team was established just a couple of weeks before Christmas and the rest, as they say, was history. The first year had a light show synchronized to music and drew visitors from all over the state to see the incredible site. When asked what prompted him and his team to bring the Hallmark-type Christmas to Columbia, Agoglia’s answer was easy to understand. “Downtown Columbia is just too beautiful and historic to be not full of visitors at Christmas. It was an easy decision on our part, but we are thankful it has grown and continues to be a Christmas destination.”

However, 2019 proved to be the year that would set Columbia apart from other towns in Mississippi

where their Christmas celebration was concerned.

After partnering with the City of Columbia for the 2019 holiday season, the holly, jolly team rolled out a surprise that many old and young thought they would never see happen. Not only did an ice-skating rink find its home in Downtown Columbia, but the citizens also came out to kick off the event with what appears to be the largest Christmas parade in Columbia’s history. The fun did not stop that night as more than 15,000 locals and visitors crammed themselves into three city blocks to watch the lighting of the Christmas tree downtown as well.

Just as October rolled through, the Looks Great Services team prepared Downtown Columbia for the fast-approaching festivities. Even as the preparations begin for this year, several new additions will be in place and it could possibly be the biggest year yet as far as the number of visitors.

One new and desperately needed addition to the ice-skating rink is the metal roof. There have been numerous times throughout the years of having the two-month-long event that the southern Mississippi

weather did not want to cooperate. From severe weather with inches of rain to 80-degree days, both take a toll on the ice. By having the roof over the rink, there is a better chance the ice will fare better when these weather events occur.

The festivities for this year kicked off on November 1 and end January 1. The skating rink’s daily hours are from 3 pm to 9 pm. Skaters pay to be on the ice an hour at a time, but Experience Columbia sells season passes for skating as well.

Make sure to check out their website for more details.

On November 27, at 3 pm, the Lighting of Downtown took place. This was the chance for visitors and locals to see the new additions in decorations, lights and music. During the week, when the streets are not closed for special events, visitors are invited to walk around the busy downtown area and shop the local businesses. Light shows are every night from dark until 11 pm.

The “Parade of Lights” Christmas Parade is scheduled to roll through Downtown Columbia on

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

December 4 at 3 pm.

With of nearly 100 entries Before the Christmas season 2018, the City ofinto the parade, thereChristmas is always something special to Columbia had hung banners and garland see. The conclusion of this parade also opens throughout Historic Downtown Columbia while athe festivities oneChristmas of the busiest in Columbia. few residentsfor built treesnights in Friendship Justat when you think you have seen it all, theinNew Park and the Marion County Courthouse.

But, Year’s Celebration starts 5 pm onwas December 2018, theEve Christmas story that at Columbia telling 31. A into regional band willof take the stageregional and rock the stepped the spotlight statewide, and night away national news.as people dance in the streets and wait on the spectacular fireworks show that will usher in 2022.

This is far one of Services the mostin spectacular Kristian Agoglia ofby Looks Great Columbia nights the year! knew the of small downtown could truly become the There are so manyifother fun things go on in epitome of Mississippi a little time and that money Downtown during December.

The trolley were invested.Columbia Even though Looks Great Services offers rides a small and gives a closer does more treefor work, treefee removal and guests disaster look at not butdeal the rich history found clean-up, theyonly alsothe hadtown a great of experience there. For the old andproperties young alike, Grinch Train decorating commercial for the special events. also makes its way around Downtown Columbia and is a very popular attraction for children.

Finally, A dream team was established justthe a couple of weeks Experience Columbia also hosts fire pits before Christmas and the rest, as they say,downtown, was and guests can year makehad s’mores and other delicious history.

The first a light show synchronized warming upfrom on cool to treats music while and drew visitors all nights. over theSanta’s state to which is next toasked the ice-skating rink, seeWorkshop, the incredible site.

When what prompted sells other delicious him andthe hiss’mores team tokits, bringhot thechocolate, Hallmark-type snacks and even a fewAgoglia’s gift items.

Christmas to Columbia, answer was easy If you are “Downtown planning a trip to Columbia to understand.

Columbia is justfor toothe holidays, sureto you your beautiful andmake historic bebring not full of appetite. visitors atFood trucks and are set up every weekend Christmas.

It vendors was an easy decision on our part, but Columbia, thegrown selection sure to settle weinare thankfuland it has and is continues to be a any growling stomach. If you choose not to Christmas destination.” eat downtown, Columbia has a wide range of However, 2019 proved to be the year that would

32 • December 2021/January 2022

and plenty of hospitality go around. setrestaurants Columbia apart from other towns into Mississippi Whentheir Columbia Mayor Justin McKenzie was asked where Christmas celebration was concerned. about the importance of City the event in Columbia, After partnering with the of Columbia for thehe said,holiday “Beingseason, a Christmas destination for rolled Mississippi 2019 the holly, jolly team out is not only a great it is thought also a huge a surprise that manyhonor, old andbut young they opportunity forhappen. our businesses excel and be would never see Not onlytodid an ice-skating mentioned among best that our state but has.” rink find its home in the Downtown Columbia, the With allcame the fun events Downtown citizens also outand to kick offin the event with Columbia, thing for sure, the team did not what appearsone to be theis largest Christmas parade in forget thehistory. true reason for Christmas, they Columbia’s The fun did not stopand that night is on display as possible. asmake more sure thanit15,000 locals as andoften visitors crammedArea churches and take in the a living themselves intotheir threemembers city blocks to part watch nativity makes its way downtown. lighting ofthat the Christmas tree through downtown as well.

Santa Claus also makes an appearance on a rooftop, explaining that the birth of Jesus ChristGreat is the real Just as October rolled through, the Looks reason team for the Christmas celebration.

Services prepared Downtown Columbia “The sky is truly thefestivities. limit for our Experience for the fast-approaching Even as the Columbia Christmas because every year, preparations begin for event this year, several new it seemswill thatbewe add something that further additions incan place and it could possibly be increases the experience ofthe ournumber locals and guests the biggest year yet as far as of visitors. from alland over Mississippineeded and the southeast.

I think One new desperately addition to the there is a rink real opportunity could be ice-skating is the metal that roof.Columbia There have been the premier Christmas destination numerous times throughout the yearsfor of Mississippi,” having the explained Mayor McKenzie. two-month-long event that the southern Mississippi If you any further information, please go weather didneed not want to cooperate.

From severe to the Experience Facebook pageboth or weather with inchesColumbia of rain toMS 80-degree days, experiencecolumbiams.com. take a toll on the ice. By havingYou the can roofalso overcall the601736-6385 more information. rink, there isfor a better chance the iceedm will fare better when these weather events occur.

The festivities for this year kicked off on November

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

LeAnne Doss Gault: Cooking, Coping and Learning

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ “Pomegranate lacquered salmon with an herb and onion salad + baked minty Beaulah Land rice with feta, and olive, pomegranate, walnut relish.”

“Coq au Vin with gruyere and herbs de Provence rice gritsotto + roasted Brussels sprouts glazed with Carol Puckett’s fig jam and sherry vinegar.”

“Crispy chicken thighs with olives and garlicky croutons + jeweled Delta Wild rice.”

I consider myself to be a decent home cook, but I don’t turn out meals like the ones LeAnne Doss Gault prepares every weeknight in her northeast Jackson home. Her meals deserve Michelin stars and serious accolades, and her son, Noah, agrees. Noah lives and works with LeAnne and often pitches in to cook. Both enjoy the fruits of their labors each evening as they contemplate the next night’s culinary creation.

A native of the Mississippi Delta, LeAnne’s dad sold farm equipment. She lived in Yazoo City during her elementary school years, Indianola during middle school and in Greenville during high school. The oldest of four girls, LeAnne first learned about food in her family’s kitchen.

“My mom was a good cook but a little predictable. She had a few dishes she cooked well, and it became country fried steak on Mondays, meatloaf on Tuesdays and so on, always accompanied by peas and cornbread. My dad cooked ‘big foods’ on weekends, like spaghetti and gumbo. He cooked those dishes at his hunting camp as well, and everyone loved my dad’s cooking.”

LeAnne loved to watch Julia Child on television on Sundays. “I never had all the ingredients she used, but her show inspired me to jazz up spaghetti by adding new ingredients and make fancy salads.” As LeAnne matured 34 • December 2021/January 2022

in the kitchen, she wanted to prepare more sophisticated foods, like lemon chicken or salmon. While attending Delta State University she cooked for three roommates. “I was a vegetarian at the time, so that created a bit of a challenge,” she recalls. During college, she gained some restaurant experience when she worked at Ruth & Jimmy’s in Cleveland, a bait shop that sold plate lunches.

After college, LeAnne moved to Hattiesburg, where she worked at Fourth Street Grocery. “We served fifty-cent oysters.” From there, she moved to Athens, Georgia, where

she worked as a nanny. “The mother left me recipes to cook for their dinner. The recipes came from cookbooks I’d never seen – Laurel’s Kitchen, Moosewood and Julia Child. I loved it. I just carefully followed the recipes and learned so much in the process.” While living in Athens, LeAnne had her first son.

Her next stop was Oxford, where LeAnne’s cousin owned Bottle Tree Bakery. She worked there and at Proud Larry’s.

“I realized I loved food, and I loved working in restaurants.”

After having a second son, LeAnne moved to Greenwood with her husband and two boys. She taught school for a few years, fourth-grade drama and eighth-grade English. Fred Carl opened Viking Range in Greenwood, manufacturing restaurant-style ranges for the home. LeAnne’s husband got a job as a chef at Giardina’s in Greenwood, and it was there that LeAnne met Fred Carl. “I told him I wanted to work at Viking, and he asked me to send him a writing sample and resume. I sent him two poems and an article I had written for Southern Folklife.” She got the job.

Carol Puckett came on the scene at Viking Cooking School “in a big way,” says LeAnne. Carol advocated for LeAnne to be promoted, and soon she oversaw sponsorships and chef relations. “That job afforded me some incredible opportunities,” she says. “I went to the CIA (Culinary Institute of America), the James Beard Awards and to Southern Foodways symposiums. I was exposed to some incredible meals.” As a mom, LeAnne wanted to give her children the world, and the best way she knew how was to try to recreate the dishes she had enjoyed while out of town.

Now her boys are grown, and she lives in Jackson, where she works for a communications startup, Edge Theory. On the weekends, she is back in Greenwood, where she teaches classes at the Viking Cooking School. “That’s a ton of fun for me. I love meeting people, pouring them wine and showing them new cooking techniques.”

She plans her meals each week using recipes she has collected from The New York Times, Food52.com and Bon Appetit. “I plan what I’m going to cook the next week each Wednesday. I tweak the recipes and make shopping lists on Thursday and Friday.” She drives to Greenwood after work on Friday, and on Sunday morning, she drives back to Jackson, where she shops up to five or six separate places for ingredients for the coming week’s meals. “I go to grocery stores and to Indian and Asian markets.”

Sunday afternoon, she spends time prepping food for the week. “I’ll also do some of the techniques I’m not real familiar with, such as simmering and braising. The rest of the week, I can put together a dish fairly fast.” The photography she does of her food really stands out on the Facebook group, Cooking and Coping: Gathering Around the Virtual Dinner Table, which she helped start as an offshoot of Malcolm White and Carol Puckett’s Deep South Dining radio program on MPB. When asked about her beautiful food pics, LeAnne says her secret is a plant light. “A friend gave me an herb-growing set-up a few years ago that had a plant light. The herbs didn’t make it, and I stuck the light in a closet. I remembered it last year when we started the Facebook group, and it works perfectly to light the food when I am taking photos.” edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

From Mississippi to Beyond

Melissa Cookston: The Winningest Woman in BBQ

BY KATHY K. MARTIN

M

elissa Cookston has been in the barbecue business so long that barbecue sauce probably flows through her veins. Her backyard in Hernando is home to about 30 grills and smokers, as well as a recording studio in her outdoor kitchen.

“My husband took me to a barbecue competition years ago, and my competitive nature and love of barbecue had me hooked at first sight.” She spent the next year developing her recipes and perfecting her rub and sauce before opening her restaurants and joining competitions.

Born and raised in the Mississippi Delta, Cookston was born in Ruleville and grew up in Greenville. She and her family moved to DeSoto County in the late 80s. For the past 39 years, she and her husband, Pete, have been in the restaurant business.

They have owned and operated their catering company and two barbecue restaurants called Memphis BBQ Company, one in Horn Lake and the other in Dunwoody, Georgia, for the past 10 years. She has the distinction of being in the Barbecue Hall of Fame as a seven-time World BBQ Champion and has authored two cookbooks, “Smokin’ in the Boys Room” and “Smokin’ Hot in the South.”

She describes her barbecue as Memphis-style, which is fullflavored with a mix of the flavors from the regions. “My flavors pull from all the different regions such as the vinegar from the Carolinas, the sweet from Kansas City and the salt, pepper and spicy heat from Texas.”

While she calls herself semi-retired now, she pours her heart into her nonprofit organization, the World Junior BBQ League.

Her mission, she says, is to encourage young people to build life skills and work as a team while training in boot camps and competing in barbecue competitions with their peers. “Our kids today need something to do other than the next video game,” explains Cookston. The goal isn’t about competition as much as it’s about comradery and work ethic. “It’s very rewarding to help kids, and I aim for diversity. I want to try and get them all they need to succeed.”

A major part of her business today is an online retail store that ships a wide variety of products. Products include her award-winning barbecue, signature barbecue sauces and

36 • December 2021/January 2022

seasonings across the country. Customers can choose from ribs, slabs, brisket, pulled pork, Cornish game hens, pork belly bites and a variety of Southern-style side dishes. She offers classic and bold dry rubs and sassy, bold and classic sauces, as well as apparel and grilling accessories. Her daughter, Lauren, also sells a variety of preserves, salts and sauces in the store.

Since the majority of her time is spent tasting and cooking barbecue every day, when she isn’t working, she also isn’t cooking. “I’m more of a ribeye and baked potato kind of girl.”

And now, with most of her focus on her World Junior BBQ League, the winningest woman in barbecue is passing on her competitive skills to the next generation of barbecue champions. edm BARBECUE DISHES WITH MELISSA COOKSTON COMPETITION PORK BABY BACK RIBS • 2 slabs baby back ribs, about 3 pounds each • ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons Ultimate BBQ Rub • ¼ plus 2 tablespoons yellow mustard • 2 tablespoons honey • 4 tablespoons turbinado sugar • 4 tablespoons purple grape juice • ¼ cup Sweet Glaze (listed below) • Chipotle Chile powder, for sprinkling SWEET GLAZE • 2 cups BBQ Mother Sauce • 1 cup honey

• 2 tablespoons Basic BBQ Rub To make glaze: 1. In a small saucepan over low heat, stir the mother sauce with the honey until incorporated. Add the rub and stir until the sugars in the rub have dissolved and there is no grainy texture.

Remove from the heat, cool and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

2. To use, brush on the meat in the last 10 minutes of smoking or 2 minutes of grilling (so the glaze doesn’t burn).

Cooking the Ribs Rinse the ribs and remove the membrane from the back.

Trim any excess fat from the tops of the slabs. Trim 1 bone from the large end of the ribs and 2 bones from the small end.

This will give you a much more consistent slab for cooking.

Starting on the backs, sprinkle the ribs with approximately 1 1⁄2 teaspoons of rub each, then add 1 1⁄2 teaspoons mustard each and massage into the meat. Flip the ribs over and repeat.

Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours.

For a contest, I marinate ribs like this for 12 to 16 hours.

Prepare a smoker to cook at 225°F with around 4 chunks of apple wood and 4 chunks of cherry wood so that the wood will smolder throughout the cooking. Remove the ribs from

the refrigerator, unwrap, and repeat the rub and mustard procedure, massaging them in. Don’t get it too thick or pastelike, as this will give you a dark appearance when cooked.

Place the ribs in the smoker meat side up and cook for 2 hours. Remove the ribs from the smoker and increase the temperature to 250°F. Apply rub and mustard to both sides of the ribs as before. On each of the top sides, slather approximately 1 tablespoon of honey over the surface, then sprinkle heavily with about 2 tablespoons of turbinado sugar each. Lay the ribs meat side down on a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil and fold up the edges. Pour 2 tablespoons of purple grape juice into the bottom of the foil for each rib then finish wrapping the ribs, but don’t crimp the edges—you want steam to be able to escape.

Return the ribs to the cooker for 2 hours, then test for tenderness. (I cook ribs at this stage until they look overdone and too tender. Don’t worry; they’ll tighten up. If they still have too much texture, leave them in for 20 to 30 more minutes.) Remove the ribs from the cooker, open the foil, and drain off the liquid. Brush sauce on the bone side of the ribs.

Then, using the foil as a tool, “roll” the ribs over so the meat side is up and glaze the tops. Using long tongs, carefully remove the ribs from the foil and place them back in the smoker for 15 minutes. This will let the glaze cook onto the ribs and let the ribs eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

tighten back up. Remove from the cooker and allow to rest for 5 minutes, apply a very thin coat of glaze to “glisten” the ribs, then very lightly sprinkle with chipotle powder before serving.

BAKED BBQ BEANS • 1-pound dried navy beans, soaked in water overnight, drained and rinsed • 2 teaspoons kosher salt • 6 cups water • ½ cup trimmings from your favorite bacon brand, diced • ¼ cup diced celery • 1 large yellow onion, diced • 1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced • 1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced • 1½ teaspoons minced garlic 1 cup BBQ Mother Sauce • 1/3 cup molasses • ¼ cup yellow mustard • 2 tablespoons cider vinegar • 1/3 cup packed light brown sugar • ½ cup Ultimate BBQ Rub • 1 teaspoon cayenne 1. Combine the beans, salt and water in a large pot, bring to a boil, and then decrease the heat and simmer for 3 to 3 1⁄2 hours or until the beans are soft.

2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook the bacon trimmings for 3 to 4 minutes, then add the celery, onion, and peppers and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until tender. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute.

3. In a large casserole dish, combine the beans, the bacon and pepper mixture, the mother sauce, molasses, mustard, vinegar, brown sugar, rub and cayenne and stir.

4. Cover and bake for 1 hour, then uncover and continue to bake until thick and bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes longer.

SMOKED CHICKEN SALAD • 1 pound pulled smoked chicken • 1 cup mayonnaise • 1 cup halved seedless red grapes • ½ cup diced sweet gherkin pickles, plus 2 tablespoons pickle juice • 1/3 cup finely diced celery • ¼ cup finely diced white onion • ¼ cup chopped walnuts • ¾ teaspoon kosher salt • ¾ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 1. Combine the beans, salt and water in a large pot, bring to a boil, and then decrease the heat and simmer for 3 to 3 1⁄2 hours or until the beans are soft.

2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook the bacon trimmings for 3 to 4 minutes, then add the celery, onion, and peppers and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until tender. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute.

38 • December 2021/January 2022

3. In a large casserole dish, combine the beans, the bacon and pepper mixture, the mother sauce, molasses, mustard, vinegar, brown sugar, rub and cayenne and stir.

4. Cover and bake for 1 hour, then uncover and continue to bake until thick and bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes longer.

Top “Instagrammable” Restaurant in Mississippi:

Much More Than Great Selfie Spots

BY KARA KIMBROUGH

W

hen it’s time for an interesting dining experience and meal, look no further than The District at Eastover, not far from downtown Jackson. The modern complex is filled with shops and restaurants ranging from gourmet pizzas to burgers to steaks. Occupying center court is Fine & Dandy, a fun, lively place named one of the “most Instagrammable spot in America” due to its eclectic décor with Mississippi touches. Executive chef and James Beard semi-finalist Jesse Houston offers a fresh, fun approach to classics like homemade biscuits and pear preserves, deviled eggs and tater tots, comically called “Dad bod tots.”

An even better reason to visit Fine & Dandy is the food.

Picture Grandma’s table, circa 1960, combined with 2021 flair.

In fact, it’s described as “granny chic” courtesy of wallpapered walls and an assortment of vintage china on which creative burgers, entrees and Southern snacks using local ingredients are served.

If you’ve grown up near the Jackson area, you’ll recognize iconic buildings and homes immortalized in the restaurant’s wall coverings. Vintage oil paintings of famous Mississippians and others that could pass for relatives are found throughout the eclectic space filled with leather chairs and cozy seating areas contrasting nicely with a modern bar and overhead industrial beams.

Fine & Dandy is open for brunch and lunch, but it’s after sundown that the restaurant really shines. Starting off a meal in the evening with “bread & butter,” better known as Jessie Mae’s black pepper bacon cheddar biscuits with whipped molasses butter, and Ms. T’s pear preserves is a decision you won’t regret.

Other noteworthy starters are spring onion bisque, the Jackson salad topped with comeback dressing and my personal recommendation, Dad bod tots, a plate of tater tots topped with pimento cheese, white barbecue sauce, bacon and green onions.

In addition to redfish, entrees are Instagram-worthy and delicious. Country fried ribeye, cast iron petite filet, chicken piccata and lamb chops are the stars of the eclectic menu.

Fine & Dandy is also known for its thick, juicy burgers, including the purist, nobleman Fine & Dainty and the one you’ve likely seen on Instagram, Grandma Chick ($12.90).

It’s imperative to end a Fine & Dandy meal with one of its “different in a good way” desserts, like banana pudding bread pudding, old-fashioned cheesecake and everyone’s favorite, “birfday cake,” complete with a sparkler.

For more information on Fine & Dandy: Visit www.

The Fine & Dainty Burger at Fine & Dandy eatdandy.com. Fine & Dandy is located at 100 District Boulevard, Jackson, Mississippi 39211. edm If You Go: Fine & Dandy Where: 100 District Blvd., Jackson Hours: Tuesday – Thursday 11 am – 10 pm; Friday-Saturday, 11 am – 11 pm; Sunday brunch 10 am – 4 pm Contact: 601-202-5050

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

{ mississippi made }

Southern Sisters Gourmet: Mixing It Up

W

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

hen Claire Easley retired from teaching school, she was free to keep her grandson, which she really enjoyed. But when he started school, Claire’s sister, Kay Allison (also a retired teacher), said Claire needed something to do. Claire agreed but wasn’t sure what she wanted to do with her spare time. Then Kay visited a local boutique whose owner told her she was looking for spice mixes and such to put in her shop. “I told her my sister could do anything,” says Kay. Claire’s biggest concern was that she didn’t know anything about packaging or keeping up with orders, and that’s where Kay stepped in.

“I know all about computers,” laughs Kay.

apples. That’s the beauty of all our mixes—you can add what you want to make it your own.”

Claire and Kay are four years apart and live about an hour apart – Claire lives outside of Memphis, and Kay in Pontotoc.

They grew up in the tiny town of Holka, where their parents were both schoolteachers. “Both of our parents had second jobs,” says Kay, “Claire did most of the cooking for the family from the time she was nine.”

Claire became the company’s product development specialist, creating the recipes in her home kitchen. “Her kitchen is FDA approved,” says Kay. They have a small warehouse where the products are packaged and shipped. They started selling their products in vendor malls until a lady Kay knew in Minnesota told her they were killing themselves. “She

And that’s how Southern Sisters Gourmet started 13 years ago. “When we started, we thought if we could net $50 a month, we’d be doing great,” laughs Kay. “Now we work seven days a week just to keep up!”

Southern Sisters Gourmet is a company that sells packaged mixes to make entertaining and mealtime easier. “We began making sweet and savory dips but realized that there were a lot of others who did that. We needed to do something different.”

Claire developed the Southern Chicken Salad mix that, to this day, is the company’s number one bestseller. Simply add the seasoning packet to one cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, add a 13-ounce can of drained pineapple and one can of chicken breast, then refrigerate overnight for one quart of goodness. “I prefer mine with pickle relish instead of pineapple,” says Kay. “You can also add chopped celery or diced 40 • December 2021/January 2022

told me we needed to be selling our products wholesale. Claire didn’t even know what that was, so she told me to figure it out, which I did. But honestly, I know that God just guides us.”

The ladies took their products on the road, to the Biloxi Gift Show, and to the Mississippi Market in Jackson. Then they started going to the Atlanta Market, the premier gift, décor and lifestyle market with the nation’s largest gift product mix, as well as to the Gourmet Show in Dallas. “We were going to those big shows four to five times a year, each time for a

couple of weeks. Claire and I don’t like being away from our families that long, and we really like to know the people we do business with, so we’ve cut back some.” The products are sold in over 400 retail outlets in the South, Southeast and Midwest. All products can also be ordered from the company’s website.

The beauty of Southern Sisters Gourmet is that the products allow any home cook to look like a gourmet chef. “All you have to do is follow the instructions,” laughs Kay. “I’m not a cook or a baker, but Claire will send a new product to me with instructions she’s written. If I can do it without any questions, we know it’s ready to go. If I have questions, Claire will re-do it.” Kay says the family serves as the product taste testers. “I think I’m the best taste tester of all.”

The sisters have settled into their roles. Claire develops the products and recipes, and until recently, oversaw the warehouse.

“We now have a full-time warehouse manager,” says Kay, who manages the marketing, label design and web presence. “I took a food photography class so I could take pictures of all our products and food shots.”

Kay helps in the warehouse a couple of times a month.

The product line has grown to include main dishes and sides, soups, savory dips, cheese balls and spreads, sweet dips, frostings and other sweets and confections, soups, relishes, jellies and jams, fruit butters, sauces and more. All the products are made in Kay’s kitchen except the jellies, which are made by a copacker using Claire’s recipes.

“We never could have dreamed that our little business would take off like this,” muses Kay. “We have thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, and we have such a fun time together.

We have met the nicest people, and we have so many loyal customers. I’m just so grateful.” edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

{ restaurant spotlight }

Blue Biscuit: A Mecca of Delta History

BY JULIAN BRUNT

T

he Deep South is famous for some pretty interesting and unique establishments.

Sometimes it’s the locally owned gas station that also sells amazing cheeseburgers or po’boys.

If it’s a music venue and bar, then it just might be a famous juke joint. And if it’s just a bar, then we might call it a dive. But there’s one place in the Mississippi Delta that covers all the bases and, in my opinion, is the coolest hang out in the state.

The Blue Biscuit is in Indianola, one of my favorite Delta towns.

It’s a small town with just 12,000 good souls, and one of those good souls was B.B. King, the King of the Blues. The museum dedicated to his career is just across the street from the Blue Biscuit and draws thousands of visitors from around the world.

The museum is one of the reason the Blue Biscuit is as cool as it is. You are just as likely to meet someone from Australia there as

42 • December 2021/January 2022

you are a Delta farmer or local attorney. It’s a customer mix like no other place around.

The Blue Biscuit is a well-attended local bar, a famous music venue, specializing in Delta blues, has a good size dance floor and a great restaurant. So, no matter what you are in the mood for, hanging out with friends, or sampling some great Delta pulled pork, this is the spot.

Trish Berry is the owner and chef and man oh man, does she have credentials. Not only was she a friend of B.B.’s, but she was also Morgan Freeman’s personal chef for years.

You won’t find a more qualified chef around.

Her menu is extensive and includes a great selection of starters, like fried green tomatoes and a seafood tower, house made barbecue on nachos and even stunningly good onion rings. This place is famous for over-the-top Delta favorites, including 72-hour pulled pork, some innovative burgers, Delta catfish, pasta and fresh seafood.

There are a lot of reasons so many people hang out at the Blue Biscuit, but one of my reasons is this place has mojo!

Besides the very cool atmosphere, absolutely every time I go, something unique happens that I think could only happen in the Delta.

I was visiting with my friend Cyan James, a geneticist from Washington, sitting at the bar with a group of local farmers sitting next to us. Cyan started to giggle and I asked what was so funny and she said, “I can’t understand a word they are saying.”

A little while later someone said is matter of fact way, “There sure is a lot of corn on the road.” Cyan was again mystified and I had to explain that the corn harvest was on and the trucks that hauled the corn to the silos dropped some on the corn on the bumpy roads, so yellow corn along the side of the road is a common sight in the fall.

I once heard a farmer telling his friends that as a child, he had shot an already dead cow, and several possums scampered away, exiting through her hind end. I laughed so hard I had to leave or

risk the farmer not appreciating the humor I saw in his story.

Every time I go to the Blue Biscuit, sometimes after the sun goes down, I order a bourbon and water and walk across the street and have a drink with B. B. at his grave site. I am a huge fan, and it is an honor to visit him and share a drink.

There is an old cotton gin next door, with rusted silos like guard towers, that add to the atmosphere, and almost every time I am there, I can hear a freight train in the distance. I always think of Ben Harper singing, “Lord I am a fool for a lonesome train.” It’s another magical moment.

There is also a lovely bayou behind the Blue Biscuit that makes for a beautiful walk. Craig Claiborne, perhaps the most famous New York Times food critic was raised just a few blocks away, and a walk by his house to see the historical marker is another must. Indianola is about as Old South as can be. The people are friendly, it’s a pretty little town in the old neighborhoods and there just isn’t another place that is as cool as the Blue Biscuit. Tell Trish I sent you. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

{ from the bookshelf }

“The Cozy Christmas Movie Cookbook” by Holly Carpenter Article by Rebecca Fending

A

quintessential Christmas movie is almost mandatory for the holiday season to feel like it’s underway. What better way to celebrate with your favorite movie than with a cozy drink or snack designed specifically to be paired with the film?

In The Cozy Christmas Movie Cookbook, author Holly Carpenter presents readers with 100 festive recipes that go hand-in-hand with a specific holiday movie. Carpenter’s idea rose from watching Christmas movies and realizing the notso-subtle filmmaker art of crafting the ideal Christmas scenery.

From perfectly fallen snow to expertly placed treats and gifts, holiday movies are meticulously designed to present the viewer with a perfect holiday scene. This almost always includes sweet treats of some kind, and this cookbook tells you just how to make them.

The cookbook starts with “Movie Night In” as chapter one.

The chapter begins with several different warm drink recipes such as hot cocoas, cider, eggnog and even an Irish coffee, each to be enjoyed with a different holiday movie. Then, the recipes pivot towards snacks to enjoy during movie night. “A Very Merry Chex Mix-Up” features a sweet take on a classic Chex Mix recipe to have while watching the holiday movie “A Very Merry Mix-Up.” Next comes popcorn and nut-based snacks, followed by cozy, warm homemade soups like “Karla’s Potato and Sausage Soup” inspired by the movie “Let it Snow.” You can pair the soups and stews with the next section of heartier dishes such as “Zoe’s Snowed-In Grilled Cheese Casserole” to watch with the movie “Christmas in Evergreen.”

Chapter two morphs into “Christmas Gatherings,” movieinspired recipes that are great for hosting guests this holiday season. Recipes vary from pull-apart appetizers like the “Healthy Holiday Cresent Wreath” to watch with “Christmas in Love” to a full-on Christmas duck dinner inspired by “A Royal Christmas.”

Not only does this section hold many recipes great for Christmas dinner, but also Christmas morning breakfasts.

44 • December 2021/January 2022

Two pancake recipes, one eggnog French toast and a breakfast casserole offer a few ideas of what festive morning foods to make during the holiday season.

For the third chapter, “Sweet Treats” is the focus. As you might guess, this chapter is focused on many different sweets to celebrate the season. Homemade candies, pies, cookies and even a Yule log. Or, for those who resonate with “the cold never bothered me anyway,” Carpenter also includes several ice cream-based desserts including, milkshakes, homemade ice cream and ice cream sandwiches.

The cookbook finishes off with a bonus section of “Recipes for Furry Family Members,” letting readers celebrate in sharing a holiday treat with their four-legged Christmas angel.

Carpenter includes a recipe for holiday dog biscuits made to mimic a human gingerbread cookie treat. She also writes a catfriendly recipe with tuna and dried catnip. These recipes are a wonderful way to include your pets in your holiday merriment.

You can find The Cozy Christmas Movie Cookbook online at Scribd, Amazon or in-person or online at Barnes and Noble.

Since the rest of the magazine is dedicated to yummy human treats, here’s one for dogs this Christmas. Use the recipe year-round, or keep it as a special treat or stocking stuffer. edm Happy’s Holiday Dog Biscuits, foreword and recipe from The Cozy Christmas Movie Cookbook Give this treat while watching “A Happy & Friends Yule Log” “In addition to advocating for love and Christmas joy, cozy Christmas movies encourage viewers to adopt a furry family member from their local rescues. Happy the Dog is one such example. Between spending Christmas in front of the fire, appearing in Christmas movies (like “Switched for Christmas”), and touring the country, Happy could probably use a few of these ‘gingerbread men’ as a pick-me-up!”

Ingredients: • 1 ¼ cups water • ¼ cup olive oil • ½ cup molasses • 2 tablespoons honey • 3 cups organic whole wheat flour • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon • ½ teaspoon ground cloves • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2. Stir the dry mixture into the wet mixture until well combined. Divide the dough in half, wrap each piece tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate them both for at least 4 hours.

1. In a large bowl, combine the water, olive oil, molasses and honey. In another large bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon, cloves and ginger.

Note: Allow the biscuits to cool completely before giving them to any lucky pooches, and store them in an airtight container.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll it out until it’s ¼ inch thick. Use a cookie cutter (gingerbread man, if you have it) to cut out the biscuits, re-rolling the dough as necessary to use it up. Place the biscuits on a baking sheet and bake them for 10-15 minutes.

From Louie de Coton

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

Wonderbird Spirits: A Grain to Glass Way of Life ARTICLE BY BRANDI PERRY

S

ituated on a curvy road in north Mississippi, between Taylor and Oxford, sits an unassuming building that blends perfectly with the nature that surrounds it.

Unbeknownst to most passersby on Old Taylor Road, the building is home to just one of the three rice-based gin houses in the world. There are only two more the owners are aware of anywhere in the world, and they are both located in Japan.

The three co-founders, Thomas Alexander, Chand Hawlow and Robert Forster, all had ties to the north end of the state in some way. They knew that Mississippi was already famous for the blues, catfish and other amazing products and history that help sell the Magnolia State to the rest of the world. They were certain that with a little dedication and hard work, Wonderbird Spirits could also put Mississippi on the map with their gin. All three shared the vision that they wanted to create something that came from the state.

This grain-toglass operation starts with a base alcohol made from Mississippi Delta rice. The team of three tried multiple agricultural products, including sweet potatoes and corn, before finally settling on rice that is grown just a little over an hour away from Taylor. The end goal was to make the best gin they could by using

46 • December 2021/January 2022

Mississippi products. It is safe to say they did a tremendous job of just that.

Every part of this unique product is made on site. The rice is brought in and fermented in a Saki method to make the alcohol that is used in their gin. Their gin begins as a grain mash. The mash is mixed with koji mold spores and fermented for five to 10 days. It is then moved for distilling. The spores produce enzymes that help during the fermentation process.

They even grow them on-site at the Wonderbird distillery for easy access and to ensure that they have the quality and quantity needed.

Wonderbird does not purchase any of the alcohol that goes in their gin. They take the base spirit and distill all 10 botanicals individually in single micro distillations because it allows them to create a more layered flavor in the gin instead of adding all the botanicals at one time. Two of the botanicals, red clover tops and pine needles, are foraged from the woods surrounding their gin house. When the gentleman initially bought the property, they met with a forager to find all the edible plants on their property and tell them in which season they were available. Using botanicals in the layered method makes their gin very distinctive, and it stands out among the rest because of its flavor profiles.

The mash is distilled three times to create each botanical, which gives the gin its flavor and aromas. The first run through the still extracts the alcohol from the mash in what is known as a “stripping run,” and then it is run through again in a “spirit run.” The spirit run creates the base spirit for the gin. Finally, the third run through the still distills the alcohol through botanicals. Those botanicals are later blended to create the gin that gets bottled and sold to consumers.

They developed around 80 different recipes before finally landing on recipe number 61. That is why you will see “61” on the Wonderbird bottle. The result is a smooth, floral gin featuring an Italian variety of juniper, fresh Meyer lemon peel

and peppercorns, among other botanicals, the marriage of an array of flavors that sits perfectly on the tongue as it inches its way to the back of your throat.

Wonderbird Spirits started it in 2017, but the first year was dedicated to just building the distillery. The stunning gin house is airy and inviting and has a bar and lounge area. From the bar and lounge, visitors can look over the production area and the next batch of gin. The second year of the process was planning, branding, packaging and testing the gin until they had exactly what they wanted. In 2019, they finally opened their doors in the spring.

When Wonderbird Spirits are taken into bars and restaurants for tastings, the owners of these establishments are usually shocked that this product is being produced literally in the middle of nowhere in north Mississippi. Even though people that taste it are astonished that it comes from the Magnolia State, it should be somewhat expected due to the flavorful botanicals and agricultural products that have made our state famous.

The gin is not created in the easiest or the fastest way available. The method they use is the longest and hardest way to process gin, but that is because if you take shortcuts, it is tasted in the end product. Wonderbird thrives on being a commitment to quality and consistency.

If you live in Mississippi, Alabama, California, Florida, Louisiana or Tennessee, Wonderbird Spirits can be found in your local liquor stores and at your local bars. However, if you live in a state that allows you to order alcohol online, you are in luck as well! Check out shop.wonderbirdspirits.com or

seelbachs.com to order this smooth, flavorful gin. You will need at least a bottle or two on hand for the holidays as you prepare your favorite gin cocktail. “Enjoy it slow and often! This is one of those gins you can sip on as you sit around with friends,” says Forster.

Wonderbird Sprits currently has several award-winning gin recipes. Their flagship product, Gin No.61, won a gold medal at the 2020 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. The No. 97 Magnolia Experimental Gin won the 2021 gold medal at the San Francisco event. The Cask Finished Gin, which is Wonderbird’s first aged product, is especially unique. The No. 61 gin is aged in a bourbon cask for 75 days to create a gin more than complex than any other, complete with notes of vanilla and spice.

Wonderbird Spirits is a place you must visit and hear the wonderful and colorful history for yourself. They are open for tours and tastings, but they are by appointment only. Please contact them at least 24 hours in advance of when you want to come. They are located at 618 County Road 303 (Old Taylor Road), in Taylor, Mississippi. Their email address is info@ wonderbirdspirits.com and a good phone number for them is (662) 205-0779. Before you go, check out their website at wonderbirdspirits.com, and their social media pages, Facebook and Instagram.

Wonderbird Spirits has definitely found its way on the map not only in Mississippi but in the gin-making world, and this is too interesting of a product and story to not experience firsthand! edm

CLASSIC GIN FIZZ RECIPE FROM ACOUPLEOFCOOKS.COM Materials needed: • Cocktail shaker (or any pourable container with a sealing lid, in a pinch) Ingredients: • 2 ounces (4 tablespoons) Wonderbird Spirits Gin No.61 (or any other gin from Wonderbird) • ¾ ounce (1 ½ tablespoons) lemon juice • ½ ounce (1 tablespoon) simple syrup or maple syrup • 1 egg white

• Soda water • Garnish with lemon twist (optional) 1. Place the gin, lemon juice, syrup and egg white in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously for 15 seconds.

2. Fill the shaker with ice and shake for 30 seconds until cold.

3. Strain the drink into a glass and top with the soda water; the egg white foam forms on top. If desired, garnish with a lemon twist. Serve immediately. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

Recipe Index White Chocolate Oreo Truffles, 6

Coconut Cornflake Cookies, 22

Southern Brown Bites, 13

Competition Pork Baby Back Ribs, 36

Alabama BBQ Sauce, 13

Sweet Barbecue Glaze, 36

Bite-Sized Reubens, 13

Baked BBQ Beans, 38

Pulled Pork Crisps, 13

Smoked Chicken Salad, 38

Pear Coleslaw Ingredients, 13

Happy’s Holiday Dog Biscuits, 45

Southern Jezebel Sauce, 22

Classic Gin Fizz, 47

Hello Dolly Bars, 22

Holiday Cheese Ball Bites, 50

Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty, local bites we’ve discovered!

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Holiday Cheese Ball Bites Holiday season means setting out a cheese ball as an appetizer for guests. However, if you’re looking to keep all hors d’oeuvres singleserve, these individual serving cheese ball bites are perfect. Lay on a bagel chip, spear with a pretzel stick or just use a toothpick.

Regardless, these savory mouthfuls are sure to keep guests happy as they await the main event.

Ingredients: • 6 slices of bacon, precooked and chopped • 8 oz. block cream cheese, softened • 1 cup freshly shredded cheddar • 1 tsp garlic powder • 1 tsp paprika

• Salt and black pepper • 1/3 cup freshly chopped chives • 1/3 cup finely chopped walnuts or pecans • Bagel chips, pretzels or crackers for serving

1. In a bowl, add cheeses, garlic powder, paprika, salt and pepper. Mix well. Freeze for 30 minutes.

2. Place bacon crumbles, chives and nuts into a small bowl.

Mix together and set aside.

3. After freezing, portion and shape mixture into teaspoonsized balls. Roll the balls around in the bacon mixture, coating completely.

4. Place balls on a wax paper-lined baking sheet and refrigerate until company arrives.

Do you have a familyfavorite dinner recipe? Or a favorite dish that never lasts long at get-togethers?

Eat Drink Mississippi wants to feature your recipes in future issues. Please send recipes to info@ eatdrinkmississippi.com, or mail them to PO Box 1663 Madison 39130.

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Till We Eat Again

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Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off.

He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, co-hosts two podcasts and blogs at www.eatsoneate.com.

Cold Weather, Hot Drinks

T

BY JAY REED

he question, “Would anyone like a hot drink?” has not always been a regular part of our family phraseology. We’re good Mississippians. Our tea is iced. Back in the day, if we had hot tea, no actual teabags were harmed in the process. No steeping.

Only stirring. And even then, there would be sludge at the bottom of the cup. The hot mixture we drank back then was composed of instant tea, powdered lemonade, sugar, spices and orange Tang. If you’re from around here, your family probably had a similar recipe, maybe even with a pack of peach Jell-O powder added, if you liked to live on the edge.

Coffee skipped a generation on my side of the family. Both sets of grandparents didn’t go a day without it. Granny collected coffee mills. She may have been drinking Sanka, but if she’d wanted to grind her own beans, she had the means. But my parents did not. Ever.

Do not. Still. I’m not sure this counts, but my mother gradually began drinking the bottled Starbucks Mocha Light Frappuccino until it mysteriously disappeared from the shelves a few months ago. Another unsolved mystery we choose to blame on the virus-that-shall-not-benamed.

Hot chocolate has been the most consistent of the Big Three in the hot drink collective.

Our friend Gay Chance’s recipe—Nestle Quick, Coffeemate, powdered sugar and powdered milk—is easy to make, dissolves wonderfully and can be easily adjusted to individual richness needs. And my mother makes a fresh batch every year, even now.

All that has changed.

Some combination of old age and international travel has heavily influenced our tea game. When we moved to the Middle East, shifting from iced to hot was one of our first major cultural adjustments. Not only was the tea served so hot it was nearly impossible to hold the glass, but it was also infused with spices like cardamom, cinnamon and cloves, loaded with sugar and spiked with milk. (Plus, the ice couldn’t really be trusted where we lived.) We quickly learned to love this new-to-us version.

Now, we have a shelf in our pantry dedicated to various kinds of tea bags; peppermint, Earl Gray and South African Rooibos all have a home. I think of these as situational hot drinks. Maybe my tummy needs soothing or my throat is scratchy, or I want to reminisce.

That’s when I need a hot tea.

Coffee beans have absolutely become a part of our daily routine, but it was a gradual process. I learned to drink coffee in college, a tablespoon of the dark elixir in my cream and sugar. And now I drink it black thanks to an array of fancy equipment, a passion I share with my son. My wife is perfectly content with her Big Easy Bold in the Keurig every morning, but I’m constantly on the hunt for exotic blends—whole bean preferred if I can get it. I haunt hipster coffee shops and chat up the baristas for hints. The last bag I bought was selected based on tasting notes I thought would be perfect for a pour-over. I don’t roast my own beans, but I know people who do. As I increase in years, I can’t handle the caffeine late at night, but I’m not ashamed to have a cup of decaf with my dessert after dinner.

The drink of choice for viewing holiday parades, opening Christmas gifts or warming up after a chilly football game is definitely hot chocolate. Though we still keep a supply of the old recipe around, our hot chocolate selection is far more robust than before.

For a long time, I kept a supply of American Heritage chocolate from Colonial Williamsburg, a recipe with hints of orange and a low-grade red pepper kick. When I’m really feeling industrious and exotic, I have “discs” of ground cocoa beans, some from the Philippines and some promising Mexican flavor; that means cinnamon is involved. We have a couple of hot chocolate “bombs” waiting around for a special occasion—the trendy kind that look like a large chocolate ball, “exploding” with all manner of marshmallows and such when hot water pours over them. And there’s a can of tiny Russell Stover Meltaway Santas that you’re supposed to be able to melt into a nice cup of drinking chocolate. But mostly, we’ve ended up eating them by the handful when we need a chocolate fix. They still melt away in the mouth. That counts, right? edm

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