Eat Local Magazine Winter 2019 by eatlocalmagazine

EATING WELL + BUILDING COMMUNITY 1 YEAR

SARY ANNIVER E ISSU

OUR PICKS FOR MEAT LOVERS BIRDS EAT LOCAL TOO CLASSIC GINGER COOKIE RECIPE CHICKEN KEEPING Q+A WITH BAGEL BAR

WINTER 2019 | EDMONTON

When it’s cold outside - we’ve got everything you need to keep warm and cozy, inside! Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. Italiancentre.ca

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park

Dear readers, thank you for subscribing to our print magazine! We’re excited to deliver our magazine to your mailbox 4 times a year, full of delicious seasonal recipes, articles featuring

local foodmakers, DIYs, and more. By subscribing and gifting subscriptions to your family and friends, we’ll be able to continue supporting the foodmakers in our community and keep inspiring people to eat, drink, and shop local.

- The Eat Local Team

SUBSCRIBE ONLINE 4x per year

$35/year WWW.EATLOCALMAGAZINE.CA/SUBSCRIBE

OUR PICKS FOR MEAT LOVERS

A CAPELLA CATERING

BIRDS EAT LOCAL TOO

CLASSIC GINGER COOKIE RECIPE

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF BROWN BUTTER CAFÉ

SOMETHING SWEET, SOMETHING BITTER

ENTERTAINING LOCAL – NEW YEAR’S EVE

CHICKEN KEEPING

5 Q & A’S WITH BAGEL BAR

SPICED CRANBERRY MULE

GATHER HERE – SEASONAL RECIPES

TABLE OF CONTENTS

5 CREATIVE DIRECTOR'S NOTES

22 #YEGFOODMAKERS 44 BEHIND THE SCENES 46 MARKETPLACE 48 ONE LAST MUSE

Magazine

Creative Director Heather Muse Contributors Heather Muse Julienne Slomp Laura Muse Daniel Jack Guest Contributors Jack and Pauline DeHaas Dong Kim Production and Design Anne deJong

Subscribe at eatlocalmagazine.ca For distribution, advertising, and general inquiries, please email hello@eatlocalmagazine.ca EATING WELL + BUILDING COMMUNITY 1 YEAR

NIVERSARY

ISSUE

OUR PICKS FOR MEAT LOVERS

@eatlocalmagazine Eat Local Magazine, established 2018

BIRDS EAT LOCAL TOO CLASSIC GINGER COOKIE RECIPE x

CHICKEN KEEPING Q+A WITH BAGEL BAR

WINTER 2019 | EDMONTON

On our cover: Heather Muse for Entertaining Local On the back cover: All photos: Heather Muse No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

FROM THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Welcome to our 1st Anniversary issue! I’ve had times in my life where I’ve struggled with the dark days of winter. Things that help are the simple pleasures in life like curling up in front of the fire with a steaming cup of coffee to read a good book. I’ve also learned over the years that Edmonton is a fantastic place to get outside in the winter. From outdoor skating rinks and downhill or X-country skiing to festivals, great restaurants and year-round farmers’ markets, Edmonton is buzzing in the winter. With Eat Local Magazine, I continue to meet inspiring people and am amazed with the local food scene here in Edmonton. Even with our frigid temperatures and limited daylight hours there is still an abundance of fresh produce, meats, and other foods available from local farmers and entrepreneurs. So rather than lament the lovely, bright, cheery days of summer, embrace the cold and go explore our great city.

Heather is a local food photographer living her best

life in an old farmhouse with her family just outside of Edmonton. With one foot in the country and the other in the city, you’ll find her at a local coffee shop or spending time with her chickens.

heathermuse.photographer

OUR TEAM

Julienne has dabbled with

Laura loves to create simple

Anne is a graphic designer

over the years. Her love for food

ingredients. When not in the

by hiking and camping trips

and different cultures makes

kitchen she enjoys curling up

taken with her husband and

working with Eat Local a dream for

with a good book or spending

four daughters. She also enjoys

her. She enjoys spending time with

time in nature.

getting outside and spending

photography and videography

dishes using fresh, local

her family and going to the gym. jslmpvisualnarratives

and landscape painter inspired

time in her gardens. lauramusecooks

annedejongart

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

OUR PICKS FOR MEAT LOVERS

LEFT: Co-owner Andy Heroux BELOW: Meat encourages sharing with their loaded trays

MEAT

8216 104 St NW, Edmonton AB Open for dinner 7 days a week, plus brunch on Saturday and Sunday

www.meatfordinner.com WHY WE LOVE THEM: Meat is a locally owned and operated smokehouse, featuring flavourful meats, homemade barbecue and mustard sauces, and a nice selection of delicious sides to compliment it all. One of our favourite things (besides the smoky, juicy meats) is how they serve your meal on a large tray, sharing style, and keep things casual. On a busy night you’ll probably be able to still find a spot at the long, well-stocked bar. With large family-style tables and a clean, unfussy restaurant design, you’ll feel right at home taking your kids or meeting some friends at Meat. Get ready to get a little messy and dig in.

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

NORTHERN CHICKEN 10704 – 124 Street NW, Edmonton

Open for lunch and dinner Monday - Sunday

www.northernchickenyeg.com WHY WE LOVE THEM: Northern Chicken is a joint venture by chefs Matt Phillips and Andrew Cowan. Located on 124 Street, the atmosphere inside the restaurant is laid back, cozy, and chill with our favourite space being the “Rumpus Room” near the back of the space, which you can also book for small groups. Serving up made-from-scratch crispy fried chicken and a good assortment of appetizers and sides, the menu also features a long and impressive list of local Alberta craft beer. You can order their original chicken, or they offer several levels of hot, up to a dangerous level, which you can compliment with their house made sauces. The word on the street is they also make an amazing cornbread and their Roasted Broccoli and Peanuts with Pork is one to try.

LEFT: Matt Phillips, Andrew Cowan, and Jay Z ABOVE: Nashville Hot Fried Chicken

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

A Cappella Catering Co.

GOOD FOOD AND GOOD PEOPLE, A STAPLE IN THE COMMUNITY WORDS DANIEL JACK | PHOTOS HEATHER MUSE AND DONG KIM

Co-owners Mich de Laive,

Kim Mahoney, and Todd Rutter 8

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

IF IT HAPPENS TO BE

your turn to host the infamous company or family Christmas dinner and you’re contemplating cooking the meal yourself or celebrating it potluck-style, consider a third option. A catered dinner eliminates a ton of stress in the already stressful holiday season. As your guests are arriving and dipping into their first rum and eggnog, it is magical to open the door to a friendly stranger who walks in and sets up a beautiful display of culinary deliciousness on your kitchen table. Ta-dah, dinner is served. A Cappella Catering Co. has been having that magical effect in homes and businesses for nearly three decades. I myself have enjoyed A Cappella’s food the last 7 or 8 corporate Christmas dinners. I met with founder Todd Rutter to learn more about his vibrant and bustling business that employs upwards of 120 employees and regularly provides thousands of meals every day in and around the Edmonton area. Todd is the kind of guy you simply want to hang out with over a beer. Todd’s love and enthusiasm for food began with the influence of his farming grandparents and the joy of pulling raw food out of the ground and turning it into something amazing and delicious. He

later used his interest in cooking and serving while working at RATT (Room At The Top – an oncampus bar/eatery at the University of Alberta), to put himself through seven years of study at the university (He has a zoology degree and an after degree in political science). Combine this with some time spent in the United Kingdom and Todd knew exactly what he was going to do post-graduation – build the perfect English-style pub for Edmonton. But life doesn’t always go as planned. Todd’s first eatery was called A Cappella Pizza which he ran out of RATT, but after one year in business, he switched gears and opened a daytime sandwich shop on the south side of Edmonton. He began to get more and more requests for catering lunches, and shifted gears again, starting to move in the catering direction. Fast forward a few years (and blood, sweat, and tears) and in 1991 A Cappella Catering Co. was established. As with any business, A Cappella Catering Co. has had its ups and downs. Whether it was overcoming the challenges of making his payroll in the early years or dealing with vehicle mishaps on the fine roads of Edmonton, Todd could likely write a book on all the incidents he has conquered to be where he is today.

PHOTO DONG KIM Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

He also reached a point with the company where he realized that he could not continue on his own. Seven years ago, Kim Mahoney and Mich de Laive bought in as owners to complete the trifecta of the current ownership. Kim as the chief operating officer takes care of the logistics of running A Cappella Catering Co., finding new ways to do it better, and Mich as the head chef creates mouth-watering culinary delights for their customers. Both Kim and Mich had been long-time employees before climbing through the ranks into a position of ownership. Their commitment to A Cappella Catering Co. demonstrates the value Todd places on his employees and his goal of employee retention in a meaningful way. Todd believes that “everyone deserves to have a decent living” and he rewards his employees for their hard work and “EVERYONE DESERVES TO HAVE commitment.

A DECENT LIVING.” – FOUNDER TODD RUTTER

After meeting Kim and Mich, Todd gave me a tour of A Cappella Catering Co. At first glance, it seemed chaotic, but once he walked me through the entire process, I realized that it is THE definition of organized chaos. From the enormous number of orders hanging on the wall, to the dozens of workers slicing and dicing endless veggies, fruits, salads, sandwiches, soups and desserts, to the incredible number of dishes and assorted cutlery, not to mention the constant coming and going of delivery vans, A Cappella has mastered this process. They have developed a detailoriented and finely tuned system to bring the raw food in one door and the cooked and ready-to-go meals out another. During our tour Todd also spoke of the addition of Curbside. In 2018 A Cappella joined the food truck

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

community and introduced YEGg eaters to a Texas, Hawaiian, and Portland inspired menu that not only makes regular appearances in downtown Edmonton but is also available for corporate functions, weddings, or other such events. See curbsideyeg.ca to see when and where you can enjoy this culinary experience. An operation like this can have a big influence on their community and A Cappella Catering Co. is no exception. Along with all the thousands of meals they are serving to the community for corporate events, weddings, barbeques, and many other large or small gatherings in and around Edmonton, they have created many quality jobs by providing living wages and benefits to their employees, and they actively give back by supporting local charities like the Ronald McDonald House and the Bissell Centre. They also support local farmers and businesses by using local products and farm-fresh ingredients as often as possible. Did you know 100% of their protein is Alberta-raised? A Cappella Catering Co. deserves to have their name heard and celebrated. They are all about fine food and supporting the community. Hmmm, that sounds familiar… And did I mention they also clean up? You simply put all your dirty dishes in the provided crates and leave them on your front step to be picked up the following day. Whether you are hosting a small family function of four or planning a grand event for 4000, I encourage you to consider A Cappella Catering Co. It’s literally as easy as 1-2-3 (followed by steps 4 and 5) with their updated user-friendly website. You will not be disappointed.

BELOW: A massive stock pot is constantly simmering

TOP RIGHT, BOTTOM LEFT: Prepping food BOTTOM RIGHT: Orders are stacked and organized in the cooler, ready to go out

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

A Cappella Catering Employee Profiles What has been one of the most memorable times at A Cappella Catering? Turkey bowling at our Christmas Party. Back in the day, we used to go to the neighbourhood pub. We’d have run of the entire place. 60-70 people crammed into this dark lounge singing Karaoke and celebrating the season. By the end of the night, Mich would have us all head out to the alley with frozen turkeys and pineapples. There were wings and legs flying everywhere! Is there an event or moment that sticks out in your mind that you will never

forget? Winter days when the vans would get stuck in the compound, Everyone would be outside pushing vans and shovelling wheels. On good days, people would wrap small garbage bags around their boots. Why is A Cappella Catering important to you? Everyone is so nice. I started as a driver and took time to go to school. They’d let me go and welcome me back right away. My interest changed to cooking and Mich moved me from the shipping department to the kitchen. Mich

Andes Bartindo

understood how important my schooling was and if I had too much work, he’d let me stay home to finish it. I’m still in the kitchen. I continue to learn and like the challenge. My mom works in the kitchen with us too. What has been one of the things you’ve learned being at A Cappella? How important teamwork is.

What has been your most memorable day at A Cappella Catering? My most memorable days would have to be having a birthday at A Cappella Catering, the hot side cooks will make your favorite A Cappella Food as part of the already amazing lunch that they prepare for all of the staff working that day (Mine would have to be the Scalloped Potatoes). Is there an event or moment that sticks out in your mind that you will never

forget? This would have to be the Chili Cook Off. The crowds loved our chocolate chili and the atmosphere was incredible. As cold as it was, you couldn’t tell because of how much fun everyone was having. Why is A Cappella Catering important to you? A Cappella Catering is important to me because the company understands the importance of a work/life balance. I am able to be there for my family and still fulfil my obligations at work. It is truly a business that puts family first and I

Ashley Penney

will always be grateful. What has been one of the things you’ve learned being at A Cappella? In the 8 years that I have been with this company, with the support of the owner group, I have gained a lot of confidence in myself. A Cappella Catering has helped me realize the passion I have for people (as well as great food). They are fostering me to reach my full potential, so I can in turn be there to support our many employees.

A Cappella Catering Co. is located in Edmonton and serves Edmonton and the surrounding area.

To order or find more about A Cappella Catering Co. visit their website www.acappellacatering.com

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

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Serve up an extra treat for the birds with holiday flair. While many of us wish we could join birds that migrate south to warm sunny places for the winter, we can’t all be snowbirds. But there are still enough year-round resident birds that tough out the winters here and delight us with their antics. Those of us who love nature can put up feeders and view the local birds from the safety and comfort of our favourite chairs.

Birds Eat Local Too WORDS PAULINE DEHAAS PHOTOS JACK DEHAAS AND HEATHER MUSE 14

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

This bark butter recipe may be made and smeared directly into the crevices of the tree trunks or make a log feeder with holes to fill with the bark butter. It’s an easy DIY project for a Christmas gift that will provide meaningful entertainment and encourage nature study for anyone that is housebound. Watching cheeky chickadees or nuthatches, or the variety of woodpeckers that stay the winter will lift your spirits. Making bark butter and keeping feeders full adds a bit of purpose to quiet, cold days.

found this one to be easy to make and a favourite of our feathered friends.

BARK BUTTER 2 cups lard* 1 cup natural peanut butter 3 cups ground cornmeal 1 cup oatmeal ½ cup chopped raisins or cranberries ½ cup chopped unsalted peanuts or walnuts

PHOTO JACK DEHAAS

PHOTO JACK DEHAAS There are many different bark butter recipes; we have

LOG FEEDER Log, approximately 3” diameter and 16-18” long Eye hook Wire to hang Directions: Drill 1” deep holes in log, 1” to 1 ½” wide, approximately 3-4” apart. Fasten eye hook on the top of the log, attach wire, and shape into a large hook for hanging in a tree. You can also drill a small hole through the top of the log, thread wire through, and bend together to secure. Bend the top of the wire to create a hook for hanging.

Directions:

If you make this for Grandma, add a festive ribbon. The

Melt lard and peanut butter over low heat. Add cornmeal,

birds won’t mind, and Grandma will be thrilled with your

oatmeal, and chopped fruits and nuts. Store in freezer in

thoughtfulness and skill.

small containers, bring out and allow to warm to room

Make a coffee, pull a chair up to the window, put a bird

temperature as needed.

book on your Christmas list and you will be well on

*Do not substitute bacon drippings due to excessive salt

your way to a new hobby. At the end of the winter, you

in processed meats.

can toss this natural feeder back into the woods. As it decomposes, it will provide shelter and food for all sorts of insects. And those creepy crawlers will provide local, organic food for birds returning to us in the spring.

Jack and Pauline DeHaas are avid birders in the Edmonton area. You’ll often find them out and about around Edmonton and Alberta with their binoculars around their necks, or drinking coffee inside watching the visiting birds at their feeders.

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

SUGARED AND SPICED’S

CLASSIC GINGER COOKIES

3/4 cup (170g) butter, room temperature 220g brown sugar 80g molasses 1 egg 312g all purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp ground cloves white sugar for coating cookies

When Sugared & Spiced started baking cookies for the very

Preheat the oven to 350F.

first market in summer of 2012, these ginger cookies were the

In a medium bowl, sift together the flour,

first out of the oven. From the market, to local coffee shops,

baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, salt and

to our little back alley bake shop, these cookies have always

cloves.

been on the menu. They’re perfect for a quick break with

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with

your morning coffee, or to leave as a special treat for Santa.

the paddle attachment, cream the butter

Not crunchy like a ginger snap, but soft and comforting like a

and brown sugar on medium speed until

cookie should be.

light and fluffy. Add the egg and beat to combine. Then add the molasses and mix until incorporated. Stop the bowl and scrape down the sides at least once. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the flour mixture to the creamed butter mixture, mixing just until combined. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Scoop the dough into 2” balls using an ice cream scoop. Place the sugar in a small bowl and roll each ball in the sugar to coat. Place the balls on parchment lined baking sheets. Bake the cookies for approximately 14 minutes. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and allow the cookies to cool slightly before transferring them to a wire rack to cool completely. Enjoy! Jeff and Amy Nachtigall are the owners of the sweetest little bakery located in the heart of Old Strathcona, just steps away from the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market. www.sugaredandspiced.ca

Page 18-19 - Week in the Life – Riverbend Gardens

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

A D AY I N T H E L I F E O F

BROWN BUTTER CAFE PHOTOS JULIENNE SLOMP

5:00am Heena or Michael arrives at the cafe to start on our house made buns while the other stays home for one more hour of sleep before our son wakes up. 5:30am While the buns are proofing, we start the prep for the day in the kitchen, also setting up the line for service.

11:00am We enter our busier time for lunch. Everyone is usually very focused on their work, and the other parent arrives with our son, sometimes to drop off extra groceries or to check to see if we need an extra hand.

6:30am Time to form the buns and get them ready for second proofing.

12:30pm Michael, Heena and the rest of the team is in service. Everyone takes turns making sure our son is busy and feeding him lunch at the same time. We are so fortunate to have an amazing team who loves our son so much!

7:00am While the buns are proofing for the second time, we mop, set up the hall, and also dial in our coffee. At home, it’s breakfast time!

1:30pm Our son goes home to nap with one of us. Emails and messages are answered at this time, while the other half of us continues the lunch service.

7:30am One of our team members is here by this time. We have a quick chat about the day, and talk about random life events as one of us double check to make sure we are ready to open and the other pipes the topping onto the buns, then pops them into the oven.

2:30pm Kitchen starts a full cleaning while the coffee station continues to help our guests.

6:00am Our toddler wakes up, and the other parent starts the day with a coffee.

8:00am We’re open for service! This is probably our favourite time of the day, as some of our regular guests arrive to start their day, and we spend some time chatting and laughing. Meanwhile at home, breakfast is done and we have our usual reading time with our son, as we slowly get ready to head out for errands or play dates. 10:00am Our other team member arrives, and we try our hardest to attempt to post on social media. Attempt, because we’re not the best at it, to be honest.

3:00pm We are closed for the day. We make sure everything is stocked, swept, vacuumed and cleaned for the next day. At home, our son is up from his nap, and is busy with activities. 3:45pm Our team members leave, while we either tend to unfinished emails or get extra groceries. 5:30pm We head home for the day to make sure we eat dinner and soak in some family time before getting our son to sleep. Heena and Michael Mak are the owners of Brown Butter Cafe, located in the Summerside neighbourhood of Edmonton. www.brownbuttercafe.com

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

something bitter PHOTOS + WORDS HEATHER MUSE

Token Bitters Token Bitters creates handcrafted artisanal aromatic bitters from organic ingredients to add that extra level to your cocktails and coffee. Local to Edmonton, their Original Sampler Set includes flavours inspired and named after Edmonton neighbourhoods. They also make some interesting Canadian flavours like Saskatoon’s Berry, Montreal Maple, Cloverdale Cedar, and Muskoka Smoke. Just a drop or two adds complexity and depth to hot or cold beverages. The sampler sets make the perfect gift for a home bartender or a great addition to your bar space. www.tokenbitters.com

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

something sweet

Good Morning Honey It’s no secret that Alberta bees make some of the best honey around, but this summer was as tough on beekeepers as it was on farmers. With cooler than average temperatures and more rainy days than we could count, the bees weren’t able to produce as much honey as in previous years. Good Morning Honey is one of our favourite local producers in Parkland County for sweet, sticky, golden honey. Buy some honey as a stocking stuffer and you’ll be helping to support local in a very tangible way this year. Look for a fan favourite – their creamy cinnamon honey won’t disappoint. We like to add a scoop to a cup of tea or use it to bake winter treats with. www.goodmorninghoney.com

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

THEY ARE THE CULINARY MOVERS AND SHAKERS. THEY PUT FOOD ON OUR TABLES, HELP US CELEBRATE OUR MILESTONES, AND ENCOURAGE COMING TOGETHER TO FORGE RELATIONSHIPS OVER BREAKING BREAD. THEY INTRODUCE US TO NEW CULTURES AND WARM OUR HEARTS AND BELLIES WITH OLD, FAMILIAR CULTURES. THEY ARE THE #YEGFOODMAKERS

#YEGFOODMAKERS Giselle Courteau

COOKBOOK AUTHOR, BAKERY OWNER, AND SWEETS LOVER. @gisellecourteau @duchessbakeshop www.duchessbakeshop.com

You can also learn to bake all things Duchess by taking a class at Duchess Atelier, where you’ll find Giselle teaching and recipe testing. Giselle has also just released her second cookbook Duchess at Home, where she shares her favourite sweet and savoury recipes she makes in her own home, just in time to wrap up and gift to your bestie or the baker in the house this holiday season.

PHOTO HEATHER MUSE

Giselle Courteau is the co-owner of the popular Edmonton bakery Duchess Bake Shop located on 124th Street in Edmonton, and the recently opened Little Duchess in the collaborative Ritchie Market building where you can get your Duchess Bake Shop fix south of the river.

Naturally Smoked Garlic 780.387.8876 | WWW.FIFTHGENGARDENS.CA WETASKIWIN, AB

locally sourced x crafted with love.

8 5

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

E N T E RTA I N I N G L O C A L

NEW YEAR'S EVE BY HEATHER MUSE

BEEF JERKY

RED PEPPER AND CARROT

HUMMUS & ROASTED BEET

Western Beef Jerky via

HUMMUS

Acme Meat Market

Infused Mediterranean Foods

www.westernbeefjerky.ca

SMOKED MEDIUM GOUDA

www.infusedmediterraneanfoods.ca 2

JAM & JELLY – RASPBERRY TART,

Sylvan Star Cheese Ltd.

EARL GREY TEA, BLACKBERRY

www.sylvanstarcheesefarm.ca

CINNAMON DRIED APPLES & KEY LIME PECANS

ALEXANDER

Range Road Garden Farms www.rangeroadgardenfarms.com

Going Nuts

CUBAN MISTAKE OLIVES – FETA,

www.goingnuts.ca

TOMATOES AND CUCUMBERS

SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, GARLIC, AND BASIL

Lacombe Fresh

Olive Me Inc. via Italian Centre Shop

www.bountifulmarkets.com

www.oliveme.co

ROSETTE DE LYON SALAMI

CRACKERS

AND COPPA (CURED PORK SHOULDER)

Meuwly’s

Italian Centre Shop www.italiancentre.ca

www.meuwlys.com

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

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Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

Chicken Keeping PHOTOS + WORDS HEATHER MUSE

I HAVE OFTEN WONDERED how many of my interests are because of my genetic makeup, or whether I am just a product of the environment I grew up in. Growing up on an acreage just outside of “town” as we called it, there was never a shortage of things to do outside. There were hours lost in the massive raspberry patch, eating the juicy red berries when my siblings and I got hungry for a snack. There were hours lost playing in the “back forty” which was just some secluded rows of trees someone had planted at the back of the property before we moved in. The rows led to the back edge of our neighbour’s yard, where someone, sometime, had dumped an old forgotten mattress in the bushes which made a pretty great trampoline for a 10-year-old girl. But there were never so many hours lost, as there were lost to birds.

catching to help out the newly immigrated family. But maybe the day he found Flory he realized he just had chickens in his blood, and somehow, he was meant to be the one to find this forlorn little hen on the side of a dusty highway before the hungry coyotes did. Since the day that Flory came to our family, there were many more birds that came and went over the years; chicks, raised into laying hens and roosters who would attack us when we went to gather the eggs; pigeons that, generations later, still live in the special coop built for them in the top of our shed; a rescue crow and

When I say birds, I mean poultry. And pigeons. And even wild birds, like great horned owls and hawks. A huge part of my childhood was devoted to birds. I remember the defining day my dad came home with a chicken. A single chicken. He had been driving to the dump one normal Saturday afternoon when something in the ditch along the highway caught his eye. He pulled over and found a skinny little white Leghorn hen. A battery hen that had likely escaped off the back of a truck coming or going to an egg farm, or possibly on its way to the slaughterhouse. So, my dad picked up the lonely confused hen and brought her home with him, of course. I was too young to remember my mom’s reaction, but I can’t imagine my practical mom thought that it was a good idea to keep this sad bedraggled little hen. Us kids had the opposite reaction – we danced around my dad in excitement and thought it was the most amazing thing that had ever happened in our house. We named her Flory and my dad built a small A-frame house and run for our little hen, whom my sister and I doted on. It wasn’t long before Flory laid us an egg in her new nest box as if to say thanks. She became the tamest hen I have ever known, and lived out the rest of her days in the land of green grass and clover patches. Looking back, my dad may have unwittingly been a product of his environment too. My opa, my dad’s dad, spent many years working on chicken farms. At the time, my dad wanted nothing to do with the chickens he and his brothers often had to spend their free time

two baby magpies that I raised and kept as pets for a few years; a couple of great horned owls that squeezed into the pigeon coop for a midnight snack but couldn’t figure out how to get back out again; a small hawk we found with a broken wing, nursed back to health, and returned back to the wild; ring-necked pheasant eggs that we incubated, hatched, raised, and then released

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

into the wild as part of a provincial project to boost wild numbers; turkeys that we raised from poults in the spring, then butchered in the fall to fill the freezer in anticipation for Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners. Birds made up a large part of my formative years.

of that fact, but over the years he has built me some pretty rad things. One of my favourite projects is my cute little chicken coop. Recycled wood, an old antique door and window, extra insulation and shingles from a previous renovation, a half-used can of black paint, and my chicken palace was born. A snug little home for the chickens that we needed in order to make our acreage feel like “home.” What my poor husband didn’t realize is that getting a few laying hens, which seemed like a good idea at the time, actually opened Pandora’s box. What started as eight sensible brown egg-laying chickens has somehow over the years turned into close to fifty this year – all different breeds that lay me a rainbow of blue, green, brown, cream, and even pink eggs. Chicken math, they call it. I can’t help it though, it’s in my genes. Or maybe how I was raised. Our little coop wasn’t built for fifty, so I rehomed some young pullets during the late summer and fall, and now we are sitting at around thirty for the winter. Not enough to call me a crazy chicken lady, but that might be just my opinion.

So, am I a product of my environment, or is it deeply embedded in my genes? After getting married and leaving my childhood home, my husband and I lived for a few years in the city. At the time, backyard hens weren’t allowed in the city we lived in, so it wasn’t even a thought in my mind. A few kids and a few years later and we found ourselves on an acreage again. That meant that we could get chickens. Thankfully, I have a handy husband who can take my abstract ideas and grandiose plans and turn them into neat, structured, better-than-I-ever-imagined realities. I sometimes need to reign it in and not take advantage

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

My husband, who also grew up with a few backyard hens, doesn’t seem to have it in his genes. Don’t get me wrong, he enjoys eating all the eggs my girls produce, but I think the thing he actually loves most about our chickens is that they are cheap therapy for me. Sometimes I need to just sit and hang out with my chickens, and he knows my at least twice-daily trips to check on them are healthy for me. I can’t explain why, but chickens are inexplicably woven into my fabric, and he accepts that kind of weirdness about me, just as I accept, well, I’m sure there’s some weirdness about him too, somewhere in there. Over the many years of raising and keeping chickens, I have learned a lot of things. I have learned how to create an environment for them to live in that keeps them happy and healthy. I have learned how to treat and avoid various diseases and illnesses, what to feed them when they are laying, what to feed them during their yearly moult, and what kitchen scraps they can eat (spoiler alert: almost everything). I have learned how to keep their coop clean, how to introduce new chicks and hens to the flock, how to incubate and hatch eggs, how to

facilitate hens raising their chicks. I have learned which breeds make the calmest pets, which breeds lay the most brilliant egg colours, and which breeds are the most winter hardy. I have learned (sometimes the hard way) how to keep predators out, both the four-legged kind and the ones in the air. I have learned how to take their waste and use it to fertilize the vegetables growing in my garden. I’m excited to share with you in future articles some of what it takes to raise chickens. I’m excited to get you excited about chickens, to maybe awaken the fact that you too have chickens somewhere in your genetic make-up. Or to think back to the chickens your parents or grandparents kept, and you’ve realized that it might be a good idea to get your own hens. Maybe it’ll be neither genetics or environment, and you’ll be the first in your family to consider keeping chickens. Whatever the case, if you haven’t heard, you can now keep chickens in the city of Edmonton. Started as a pilot project back in 2012, and expanded to 50 permitted sites in 2016, the cap for the number

of urban hen sites was lifted in May 2019. With some pre-planning, a Chickens 101 course from River City Chickens, and a few site inspections, any responsible person can now keep up to six hens in their city backyard. Chickens make the best pets. What other pet can recycle your compost into your breakfast, and provide therapy at the same time, all on a little city lot? Kids love to be involved in the care of chickens and the gathering of eggs, and you’ll know that your breakfast came from humanely-raised happy hens. In future articles, I’ll share what I’ve learned, and hopefully convince a few of you to explore the possibility of keeping a few hens in your backyard. Heather Muse is the founder of Eat Local

Magazine and lives with her husband, three kids,

two dogs, one cat, and 30 chickens (for now), just outside Edmonton on 6 acres. heather@eatlocalmagazine.ca

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5 Q&A’S WITH

BAGEL BAR PHOTO HEATHER MUSE Who is the person behind Bagel Bar and how did you get started with bagels? Gemma Davies started Bagel Bar in May of 2019. Since moving from the UK to Edmonton 6 years prior, she had struggled to find a bagel that she loved. A keen baker, Gemma developed her recipe and began making bagels for family, friends and colleagues. It wasn’t long before she realized that there was a demand for authentic bagels in the city. In December 2018, Gemma left her corporate job to focus on bringing delicious bagels to Edmontonians. What are some of your flavours, and how do you come up with them? There’s something for everyone at Bagel Bar; ranging from classics such as Sea Salt, Sesame Seed and Everything to our more unique offerings like Cheesy Garlic, Italian Herb and Cheese, and Chocolate Chip. We also offer feature flavours every two weeks, which can be very out of the box! Recently, we featured a hot Cheeto bagel which was very popular! The Bagel Bar team are true foodies, so between us we’re able to brainstorm some great new bagel flavours, taking into consideration the season and pairing them with our house-made cream cheese flavours. We often put flavour suggestions out in a poll so that our social media followers can help decide on our next feature flavour. How is a bagel made, and what makes your bagels special? Our bagels are made by incorporating dry ingredients into a starter. Once the dough is formed, we rest it in the cooler before cutting, weighing and rolling each bagel by hand. The bagels then proof or retard in the cooler overnight. In the early hours of the next morning, the bagels are boiled in malt water to create the chewy crust that bagel lovers seek, and then finally they’re baked. Bagel Bar prides itself on following a traditional process without cutting corners, but what makes us unique is the way we flavour our bagels. Traditionally, most bagels are flavoured by

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

adding toppings to a plain dough before baking. We do this, however for many of our offerings, we also incorporate a pop of flavour into the dough itself. What are some of your future goals with Bagel Bar? Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re excited to open a Bagel Bar storefront(s) in future! Until then, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re focused on making it easier for our customers to get their hands on our bagels. We plan to partner with wonderful local businesses around the city, to include Bagel Bar bagels in their menus. How can we get our hands on your delicious bagels? We operate out of DeRose Bros (9928 67 Ave NW) from Wednesday to Saturday. Each day you can find a great selection of our bagels, our flavoured cream cheeses and our Everything on Everything spice blend. Not to mention, DeRose makes amazing sandwiches on our bagels! (pro tip: try the breakfast bagel!) You can also find our bagels in a few cafes: Bake My Day in Beaumont: Customers can buy fresh every Thursday and can also have any Bake My Day sandwich made on one of our bagels, and Coffee Life in Edmonton: Customers can have any Coffee Life sandwich made on one of our bagels. We also hold pop-ups once per month on Sundays at different local businesses around the city. Details of our flavour offerings and pop-up dates are available on our Instagram page (@bagelbar.yeg)

www.bagelbar.ca

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SPICED CRANBERRY MULE

1 1/2 oz Black Diamond Spiced Cranberry Liqueur 1 oz Black Diamond Wheat Vodka 1/2 oz Black Diamond Ginger Syrup Dash of cinnamon DIRECTIONS: Shake all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice, strain out over ice in glass and top with a splash of soda water. Garnish with fresh cranberries and ginger, if desired. Our Spiced Cranberry Liqueur is 18%, sweetened with a bit of apple juice and cooked with 5 spices to make it taste like Christmas. We use cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, and star anise.

Black Diamond Distillery is St. Albert’s first craft distillery and produces handcrafted liqueurs, vodkas, and whiskey. Made in small

batches with locally sourced ingredients, owners David and Andrea Scade can often be found pouring samples at local markets or creating delicious flavour profiles at their distillery in Riel business park. www.blackdiamonddistillery.com

gather here RECIPES FROM OUR TABLE TO YOURS RECIPES + WORDS LAURA MUSE | PHOTOS HEATHER MUSE

ROASTED TOMATO AND RICOTTA CROSTINI TIME: 45 MINUTES | SERVES: 8 4 ripe roma tomatoes

METHOD:

Olive oil

Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with

Salt Freshly cracked pepper ¾ cup ricotta cheese

parchment paper. Slice each tomato lengthwise into four slices and place on baking sheet cut side up. Drizzle with olive oil and

½ of a block of cream cheese (125 g), softened

sprinkle with salt and freshly cracked pepper. Roast in

1 fresh baguette

oven until flattened and sizzling with slightly blackened

5 tbsp. pesto

edges, about 30-45 minutes. Whip ricotta and cream cheese with a hand mixer for a minute or two until creamy. On a slight angle, cut 16 thin slices from baguette, about 1 cm thick. Place on another baking sheet, brush each slice with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toast in oven under the broiler until the edges are browned, about 1 minute. Remove toasted baguette slices from oven. Spread each with about 1 Tbsp. of the ricotta and cream cheese mixture. Top with a roasted tomato slice and about ½ tsp. of pesto. Serve immediately. Makes 16 crostini.

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

HONEY PECAN BAKED BRIE WITH CRANBERRY SAUCE TIME: 30 MINUTES | SERVES: 4-8 2 Tbsp. pecan pieces. 1 tsp. + 2 Tbsp. liquid honey ½ tsp. ground cinnamon Salt 1 small (170 g) wheel of brie cheese 1-2 slices bacon ¼ cup fresh cranberries 2 Tbsp. water 1 Tbsp. brown sugar ½ Tbsp. orange zest Freshly cracked pepper METHOD: Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix pecan pieces with 1 tsp. liquid honey, cinnamon, and a sprinkle of salt. Spread out on a piece of parchment paper on a small baking sheet or oven-proof dish and toast in oven until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 10-15 minutes. Be careful not to burn them. Place brie into a small oven-proof dish. Score the top of the brie into a cross-hatch pattern, making sure to cut through the rind. Bake in oven until melted and bubbling, about 15-20 minutes. While the pecans are toasting and the brie is baking make bacon bits and cranberry sauce. With a scissors, cut bacon into ¼-inch pieces and fry in a pan until crisp. Set aside. Combine cranberries, water, brown sugar and orange zest in a small pot and heat over medium heat until cranberries start to pop. Crush the berries and stir to combine. Set aside. When the brie is ready spoon the cranberry sauce onto the centre of the cheese, top with pecans and bacon bits, drizzle with 2 Tbsp. liquid honey, and finish with some freshly cracked pepper. Serve immediately with apple slices and/or crackers.

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

HOT CHEESE DIP 3 WAYS TIME: 20 MINUTES - 1 HOUR | SERVES: 4-8

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

1 package (250 g) cream cheese, softened ½ cup mozzarella cheese, grated ¼ tsp. salt Preheat oven to 375°F. In a medium bowl mix both cheeses and salt together and then mix with one of the three options below. Spoon into a small oven-proof dish and bake in oven for 10-15 minutes until bubbling and browned on the edges. Serve immediately with tortilla chips. ROASTED GARLIC AND CHIVE 1 head garlic ½ Tbsp. olive oil 2 Tbsp. chives, finely chopped Freshly cracked pepper To roast the garlic, remove most of the outer skin and cut the top off the garlic head to expose the cloves. Place on a square of tin foil, pour olive oil over top, and fold up the foil to loosely wrap the garlic. Roast in 375°F oven until garlic is soft, about 30-40 minutes. Squeeze the garlic cloves into a small bowl and mash with a fork. Mix mashed garlic and chives with cheese mixture and top with freshly cracked pepper. CARAMELIZED ONION ½ medium to large onion, about ½ cup chopped 2 Tbsp. butter Freshly cracked pepper Melt butter in a pan over medium heat. Slice onion half lengthwise (root to top) into thin slices. Separate onion pieces, add to pan, and stir to coat with butter. Turn heat to low and cook onions for 30 minutes, stirring every few minutes. Add a tablespoon of water to deglaze the pan and continue to cook over low heat for another 15 minutes, or until onions are very soft and golden brown. Mix caramelized onions with cheese mixture and top with freshly cracked pepper. SPICY JALAPEÑO 1 jalapeno pepper, about 2 Tbsp. finely chopped Paprika Wearing gloves to keep your hands from burning, slice jalapeño in half and remove the seeds and membranes. Finely chop jalapeño and mix with cheese mixture. To increase the heat, chop and add a second jalapeño to the mixture. Sprinkle paprika on top.

APPLE AND BACON PEPPER POPPERS TIME: 45 MINUTES | SERVES: 8 8 jalapeño and/or mini bell peppers ¾ of a block of cream cheese (about 190 g), softened ½ cup extra-old cheddar, grated 1 Tbsp. chives, finely chopped ¼ tsp. freshly cracked pepper 1 Granny Smith apple, halved and cut in 16 thin slices 8 strips bacon, cut in half Freshly cracked pepper METHOD: Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Slice peppers in half and remove the seeds and membranes. If you are using jalapeños, wearing gloves to do this will keep your fingers from burning. Also be careful not to rub your eyes! In a medium bowl, mix together the cream cheese, cheddar, chives, and cracked pepper. Fill each pepper half with the cream cheese mixture (about one generous teaspoon each), top with an apple slice, and wrap in half a bacon strip. Secure bacon with a toothpick and sprinkle freshly cracked pepper on top. Bake until cheese is bubbling and bacon is crispy, about 30 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 16.

ABOUT LAURA Although I was brought up in a family of excellent (my mom) and adventurous (my dad) cooks, I didn’t really come into my own until about a decade ago. After leaving home, cooking was daunting at first, but as I spent more time in the kitchen (and in the grocery store or farmers' market holding up some previously unknown-to-me vegetable or spice while asking, “What’s this and what can I make with it?”) I started to find a love for creating in the kitchen I didn’t know I possessed. I hope you enjoy making these dishes as much as I've enjoyed creating them. Follow Laura on Instagram @lauramusecooks

BEHIND THE SCENES A glimpse of the fun and hard work of putting together our Winter issue.

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

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Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

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Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

one last muse PHOTO HEATHER MUSE “Growing up, my Christmases were filled with the delightful crunch of rosette cookies. My Grandma Shirley used to make them for us every year and they are still a long-time holiday favourite of mine! Rosettes are made by deep frying an iron dipped in a thin crepe-like batter. The resulting cookie is crisp and flaky, which is then covered in a mixture of cinnamon and sugar. After she was unable to continue making them, I decided to try to recreate those reminiscent flavours, but unfortunately we were unable to find my grandma’s irons when the time came. Being that history runs deep on both sides of my family, my other grandma, Grandma Jean, gifted me these rosette irons and a recipe that spans back five generations, once belonging to my Great-Great-Grandma. The task at hand is very time consuming and delicate, so much so that there is a handwritten note in the margin of the recipe, suggesting you offer up the first batch to the Scandinavian gods in hopes that the following cookies will be golden brown and full of that sugary flavour! Over the years, I have learned that since they are incredibly finicky to make, an added bonus is getting to snack on the mishaps as you go! I feel a close connection to both of my grandmothers every time I use these irons. After the many trial and errors, and the unsuccessful batches, it was all made worthwhile by watching Grandma Jean taste one of my rosettes. With her eyes sparkling, like they often do, she smiled at me and thanked me for bringing back a long-forgotten taste from her own childhood.” Kristin Graves, Farmer of Fifth Gen Gardens www.fifthgengardens.ca

Kristin is a fifth-generation farmer, committed to connecting people with locally grown food. The land she grows on is what she holds most dear, learning the farming way of life by working alongside her parents and grandparents. She offers a 12-week

Eat Local • Edmonton • Winter 2019

CSA throughout the summer and is the creator of Fifth Gen Naturally Smoked Garlic.

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