8 minute read
SUMMER SUPPERS IN MALTA
from EBM Magazine #16
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TERRONE
Climate change and an environment that is rapidly degrading are forcing us to review our habits, and become more aware of what can be done to minimise our own carbon footprint. But how often do you think about the damage you're causing to the environment when you eat out? You’re looking for a relaxing experience where exceptional food is served. After all, don’t you deserve that after a hard day’s work?
Adrian Hili, chef patron of Terrone, is committed to reducing the distance that food has to travel, spending much of his energy on sourcing ingredients, rather than using complicated cooking methods. You won’t find any foams or gels in this laid-back restaurant in Birgu; their simple cooking methods allow the ingredients to speak for themselves, and they do really shine.
Everything at Terrone has a relaxed feel. Nothing is too complicated, from the décor to the style of cooking. The menu changes daily, with the sea’s bounty taking centre stage. Their fresh fish comes from line and harpoon fishermen, avoiding commercial fishermen that use damaging trawling methods.
With his first restaurant in Marsaxlokk, Malta’s fishing capital, Adrian had made friends with all the right fishermen. Today they call him as soon as they've caught something, and he purchases the fish before they even get to shore – you don’t get fresher than that! In an effort to stay more sustainable, they're moving away from purchasing portion-sized fish - as these are still juvenile - and going for large and older fish which can be portioned down. With herbs grown in large pots on the sunny docks at the restaurant, and vegetables sourced locally, or at most from Italy, nothing comes from very far afield at Terrone. This means you can indulge in a night out with the very best in local cuisine without racking up your carbon footprint.
An eclectic melting pot in the heart of St Julian’s
NAAR
St Julian’s is the centre of tourist activity on the island. Nowhere are the views quite as spectacular from the Naar Restobar terrace. Just a stone’s throw from the turquoise blue waters, diners are treated to a slice of Malta’s unadulterated beauty – white the sandy beach overlooked by the towering gothic church in Balluta Bay.
The menu is a reflection of the clientele that make Naar their choice; young, energetic and beautifully varied, with dishes inspired by the Mediterranean and Asia. The goal is to captivate people from different nationalities living in Malta. Their inclusive ethos doesn’t stop at humans! They also welcome your furry friends.
The concept is similar to the Spanish tapas style – small dishes best suited for sharing, while you enjoy an ice-cold cocktail by the sea. When dining by the water, fresh seafood is the order of the day. Their pan-fried octopus in garlic and lemon has a distinct Mediterranean feel with the addition of dill that adds a unique freshness. Both vegans and vegetarians will not be disappointed with several great options. Their zucchini on bread with hummus and gorgonzola cheese is another Mediterranean-inspired dish that is perfect for those avoiding meat.
A number of other dishes are inspired by various cuisines across Asia. Their Asian-style mussels are a firm favourite, coming back to the menu time and time again. Onion bhajis, rich in spices and deep-fried in a cornflour batter hail from India, while Japan is the source of inspiration for their fried chicken that has been marinated for 24 hours before being perfectly cooked sous vide and finished in the deep fryer.
The best way to start your weekend is a bottomless brunch on the terrace. Served every weekend, this is the ultimate launch into your weekend, or recovery after a late night. With live music and a vibrant atmosphere, Naar Restobar is the ideal spot for gathering with friends throughout the summer season, making the most of the very best St Julian’s has to offer.
A Passion for Flavours
RISETTE
The fine-dining establishment on the ground floor of Casa Ellul follows the hotel's same ethos in preserving what is traditionally local, whilst adding a refined touch. Architect Sandro Valentino has put his signature style to the restaurant, preserving the traditional features of the Victorian palazzo whilst adding a modern-chic flair. The black wooden panelling on the walls contrasts with the white marble tabletops, while the golden sofas add a touch of warmth to the small but elegant establishment.
The restaurant has recently reopened under Executive Chef Steve Scicluna. With experience at Michelin-star establishments such as Clove Club in London and Chapter One in Dublin, Steve brings the refined quality which patrons have come to expect at Risette. With an emphasis on using the freshest produce, Risette's menu changes weekly. The menu combines cultures and methods into dishes which express Steve's passion for flavours. The menu is bursting with Mediterranean flavours. Perhaps the dish which best stands out is that of red and yellow tomatoes, whipped ġbejna, horseradish, confit garlic and yarrow flowers. The core elements are garnished with an intricate halo of batter. It seems a shame to put your fork into such a stunning creation, but you’ll be rewarded with a burst of flavours.
Patrons can opt for an à la carte option, but an unsurpassed experience lies in the tasting menu, allowing diners to truly sample the skills of Steve and his team. A prawn quenelle with kohlrabi in a frothy sopina sauce, a delicate foie gras ganache on a speculoos biscuit with pears poached in red wine and a slide of toasted brioche, and meagre farci topped with seaweed powder and manzanilla sauce, are just a few examples of what's on offer. On to the desserts, Pastry Chef David Tanti lays down some wonderful creations. An olive oil sponge topped with lemon mousse and honey cream combines perfectly with a side serving of melon sorbet, and all its ingredients are locally sourced. His Golden Hazelnut will make you feel like that squirrel in Ice Age, when he finally gets hold of his prized hazelnut! A chocolate shell dusted in golden lustre reveals a soft ganache and praline centre, with a salted caramel heart. A truly perfect end to an exquisite meal!
Fresh look for a fresh season
GIUSEPPI'S
The summer sunshine has moved us outdoors whilst always being on the lookout for restaurants with great views and even better food. Guiseppi’s has been a favourite among tourists and locals alike (though locals in the know will be filling most of the tables. We’ve always been a firm favourite of the Hampton-esque style deck overlooking the beautiful Salini Bay. But this season, we’re getting a fresh look on the outside terrace, and we can’t wait to spend many an evening sipping cocktails and indulging in Malta’s finest ingredients after they’ve received that unique Diacono treatment.
The menu this summer is something to look forward to. Most dishes on the menu change daily, depending on what’s in season, available on the day and what inspires chef patron, Michael Diacono. One dish that Michael has been unable to take off the menu is a tagliolini with local prawns and fresh summer truffles, so much so, that his last holiday in the Umbrian countryside involved truffle hunting and learning new tricks from the Italian grandmas that make Italian cuisine sought-after the world over.
The menu is a celebration of all things local with a wonderful dish of chargrilled octopus on a bed of carrot puree with salsa verde, blackened by squid ink. Many dishes on Michael’s menu will often feature a hint of the Middle East, with dishes like lamb cutlets and confit tomatoes on a bed baba ganoush, labneh with parsley oil, marrying the Mediterranean with Middle Eastern flavours. There’s always something unexpected on the menu. This particular dessert of pineapple carpaccio served with homemade mango sorbet has a touch of black pepper sprinkled over the top – so simple, yet adding that extra depth of flavour. Crushed meringue adds texture and fresh berries add a tart element. Topped with mint and dill, this dessert is a perfectly balanced end to your meal.
As the nights get warmer, we can look forward to long summer nights on the deck at one of our favourite haunts.