INTO THE BLUE

The South West Cliffs of Malta possess a distinct identity, and are of ecological and significant archaeological importance. Less populated, and annexed off from traffic arteries and bustling central towns, the terrain has retained a sense of the remote, allowing those who reside there, or simply visit, to exhale as they take in the dramatic Mediterranean vista.

Home to a rich biodiversity of endemic flora and fauna, the spectacular deep blue sea which sparkles below is accessible only in part, where the topography folds and dips. Geomorphologically, the cliffs present a complex of coastal land-forms including massive limestone faces rising from depths of around 100m below sealevel to a maximum height of 150m above, with emergent and submerged caves.

Inaccessibility has been crucial in protecting it from development; unlike the East-facing coast, where natural harbours, and a lowlying shoreline have meant centuries of architectural intervention and Maritime activity, this elevated terrain has remained relatively unchanged over the centuries.

The Neolithic Mnajdra and Hagar Qim temple complex are located along a ridge. Despite their immeasurable importance as free standing buildings that predate the Egyptian Pyramids, there are no long queues, or hefty fees to access them. During the summer months, it is advisable to arrive here as early at 08:00, before the heat takes over, and walk freely from one temple to the other, along a path that runs along the cliff, looking out towards the mystical Filfla, an uninhabited islet located five kilometres out at sea. Once larger in size, the British Navy used the island as target practice, perhaps inadvertently contributing to its stark allure, by changing its shape. British broadcaster and natural historian David Attenborough visited this island in search of a rare subspecies of lizard, which continues to exist there today, perhaps this is where he found that ancient shark tooth that he recently gave to the British Prince George, causing quite a stir!

The physical conservation of the Megalithic Temples is an area of concern. The sites were excavated during the course of the 19th and 20th centuries, leaving them exposed to erosion by natural and human causes. Lightweight, removable protective covers have been implemented as an interim strategy to prolong the life of these buildings, while research continues to identify alternative long-term preservation strategies. They are structures of awe, astronomically oriented with the rising sun during the solstices and equinoxes, so as to fill the various apses with light, according to the season; to stand amongst these giant, ancient stones is magical and uplifting.

The popular destination known colloquially as the Blue Grotto is less than two kilometres from the temples, and can be reached on foot. Upon arrival, throngs of scuba divers, locals and tourists can be found making their way up and down the steep hill towards the clear waters, for a swim, a dive or a boat ride. A natural inlet provides some shelter for small boats, most of which are engaged in running small groups of visitors on a 20-minute boat ride towards the Blue Grotto, no doubt a reference to the more famous sea cave by the same name, located on the island of Capri. Visit around noon, when the cave is aglow with light and electric blue hues that provide sensorial overload.

Back on terra firma, take a dip in the refreshingly deep waters and then seek out shade. There are a number of establishments providing refreshments, and they are always filled with hungry groups, snacking on crusty bread rolls filled with tomatoes, olives, capers and tuna, and bowls of chips. In amongst the more egalitarian bars, are several well-established restaurants, popular with the locals, that serve an unexpected variety of dishes, ranging in price and aspiration. Simone, the owner of Il Corsaro, is an Italian who has made Malta his home. His tiny restaurant features one booth, and several tables across the street, all of which look out to sea. The menu is on the board, and features carpaccio of local fish, including delicious sweet shrimp and pickled onion bruschetta, and a delectable dish of ray in a sweet pepper sauce, there are a variety of exquisite pasta dishes, served with salty Bottarga, Sea Urchin roe or Langoustines, all of which are brought to your table in an aluminium pan, to be washed down with a chilled glass of Greco di Tufo, as you gaze out into the blue, towards Filfla and the horizon beyond – all the worries of modern life behind you, dazzled by the light as it dances atop the vastness of the Mediterranean sea.