TOURISM IN PROTECTED AREAS
Mount Saraúrco, Cayambe-Coca
TABLE OF CONTENTS Welcome to Ecuador! How this guide is organized Key to symbols Map of Ecuador’s protected areas
2 4 4 6
Galápagos
8
Galápagos National Park and Marine Reserve
10
Pacific Coast
12
Galera-San Francisco Marine Reserve Machalilla National Park Manglares-Churute Ecological Reserve
14 16 18
Andes
20
El Ángel Ecological Reserve Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve Pululahua Geobotanical Reserve Pasochoa Wildlife Refuge Antisana Ecological Reserve El Boliche National Recreation Area Cotopaxi National Park Los Ilinizas Ecological Reserve Llanganates National Park Chimborazo Fauna Production Reserve Cajas National Park Podocarpus National Park
22 24 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46
Amazon
48
Cuyabeno Fauna Production Reserve Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve Limoncocha Biological Reserve Yasuní National Park Sangay National Park
50 54 58 60 64
Other PANE areas Ecosystem Diversity Information Advice for responsible tourism
68 76 78 84
Welcome to Ecuador and its four worlds!
T
iny Ecuador is home to a fantastic range of biological diversity, one of the largest in the world. In a wing beat, you can climb from the exuberant Amazon jungle to the high, snow-covered peaks of the Andes, cross the peaceful highlands, and descend to beaches covered with golden sand. On the way, it is possible to take a dip in the rivers or the turquoise waters of the Pacific to the sound of marimbas or the metallic chorus of oropendolas. Ecuador’s friendly people live in this extraordinary natural setting, a privilege that brings with it responsibilities. Assuming these has meant the creation, by the state, of natural protected areas: national parks, ecological reserves, marine reserves, and other categories created for this purpose. Currently, Ecuador’s Natural Areas Heritage (PANE, Spanish acronym) consists of 44 protected areas that cover every ecosystem in the country. Some are as large as a province and others as small as a city park. There are some that protect a specific place and others that cover vast forested areas of the Amazon, climb up the Andes, and include mountains, rivers, and human populations. Together, the latter form networks and corridors whose purpose is not only to preserve the life existing there but to perpetuate
Tropical rain forest, Yasuní
migratory, evolutionary, and even cultural processes. Taken together, PANE areas cover close to 10% of the nation’s territory, one of the highest percentages in the world and evidence of the determination of Ecuadorians to find ways to join the conservation of nature with the presence of human beings. In spite of administrative declarations, effective protection of reserves is not always achieved. The need for resources and extractive pressures represent threats to the collective conservation effort. It is here that nature tourism comes in, that is, sustainable and responsible tourism, as an alternative. By visiting PANE areas, the traveler is not only becoming familiar with the most exciting sights Ecuador has to offer but is also making possible their conservation.
But what protects PANE? PANE areas safeguard our greatest treasure: the biological diversity and the processes and resources that said diversity produces. Within protected areas are 75% of the birds, 90% of the amphibians, and 60% of all the plants that exist in the country. But, in addition, protected areas are the home and source of resources for a variety of human groups and are indispensable for the reproduction of their cultures; Kichwa, Waorani, Shuar, Achuar, Shiwiar, Cofán, Siona, Secoya, Chachi, black, cholo, mestizo, and the uncontacted Tagaeri and Taromenane peoples play a very important role in the use, management, and conservation of the various reserves and their areas of influence.
Tourism in protected areas The biological and cultural diversity of PANE, the relative closeness of the different areas, and easy access to a large part of their attractions make these protected areas an incomparable destination for national and international nature tourism. And, in spite of their accessibility, the traveler will still find the magic that only littleexplored places conserve. Visitors can concentrate on just one of the vast areas available and live it in depth. If they opt for Cuyabeno, for example, they will meet three indigenous nationalities, huge tropical forests, labyrinths of rivers and lakes, and enough species of flora and fauna for an entire lifetime of observation. Or, on the other hand, visitors can design an itinerary that includes a few days in a number of reserves, going to the untouched beaches of Machalilla, climbing the Andean glaciers of Cotopaxi, Antisana, or Chimborazo, and traveling down along the winding rivers of one of the Amazon reserves. By that same token, there are options for every type of tourist, from reserves with comfortable facilities for lodging and activities to those designed for the very adventurous in search of destinations off the beaten track. A tourist might also combine the arduous ascent of an Andean giant followed by a restful stay in one of the many spas found at volcanic hot springs. Ecuador and its protected areas hold fantastic moments and corners for everyone. Visiting them contributes to their conservation while providing an unforgettable experience.
3
How this guide is organized he purpose of this guide is to aid travelers or tour operators in planning a trip for themselves or their customers. To that end, the guide offers a summary of the 21 protected areas most attractive for tourism, indicating the major characteristics that make each one a unique and fascinating destination. The areas are organized according to the four worlds found in Ecuador: Galapagos, Coast, Andes, and Amazon, and from north to south within these categories. General information on each area is accompanied by pictograms of the major activities available and a list of the most relevant tourist attractions. There is also a map with basic information about access and orientation to each reserve. A key to maps and pictograms is provided below. In addition, data include a brief list of the ecosystems in each area. Ecosystem classification – tropical rain forests; cloud forests; Andean forests; highlands; dry coastal forests; mangroves and estuaries; rivers, lagoons, and wetlands; marine ecosystems; and the Galapagos – is, of necessity, simplified (in fact, there are six types of highlands and a dozen different kinds of dry forest). The purpose is to offer an idea of what the tourist can expect in any particular PANE area. On page 76 there is an explanation of the major characteristics of each ecosystem. A second section presents basic information on the other protected PANE areas, many of them recently created, for those who enjoy discovering enchanting corners far from the well traveled tourist routes. Finally, the guide offers basic information to help tourists while traveling: location and access routes, fees, visiting hours, and contacts. In addition, it offers advice on appropriate clothing for each ecosystem and tourist practices to make the visit more friendly for local communities and nature.
T
Key to symbols masl 4 523 - 6 259 4 224 - 4 522 information
lodging
restaurant
camping
bird watching
climbing
water excursions
lookout point
fishing
kayaking
jungle excursions
beach
fauna watching
museum
train station
crafts
forest
community tourism
excursion
hot baths
panoramic view
whale watching
mangroves
archaeological area
waterfall
flora watching
volcano
tourist cycling
horseback riding
cave
navigable river
rafting
lagoons
diving
refuge
3 924 - 4 223 3 624 - 3 923 3 325 - 3 623 3 025 - 3 324 2 725 - 3 024 2 425 - 2 724 2 126 - 2 424 1 826 - 2 125 1 526 - 1 825 1 227 - 1 525 927 - 1 226 627 - 926
country capital
major river
328 - 626
provincial capital
Panamerican Highway
railway
major city
major access road
provincial border
site
secondary access road
28 - 327
4
0 - 27
trail
Quijos River, Cayambe-Coca
1 2
GALÁPAGOS NATIONAL PARK GALÁPAGOS MARINE REVERVE
3 4 5
GALERA-SAN FRANCISCO MARINE RESERVE MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK MANGLARES-CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
34
30 Esmeraldas
2 3
1
6 Tulcán
CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE CAYAMBE-COCA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK SANGAY NATIONAL PARK
8
39 40 41 42 43 44
EL ZARZA WILDLIFE REFUGE EL QUIMI BIOLOGICAL RESERVE EL CÓNDOR BINATIONAL PARK COFÁN-BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE SUMACO-NAPO GALERAS NATIONAL PARK YACURI NATIONAL PARK
Nueva Loja 18 43
Sto. Domingo
9
13 11
33
Portoviejo
10
12
20 Francisco de Orellana
Tena
Latacunga
14
21
Ambato 15
Puyo
4
Pacific Ocean
Babahoyo
Riobamba
Guaranda
22
37 27
MACHE-CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE SANTA CLARA ISLAND WILDLIFE REFUGE MUISNE RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE EL SALADO MANGROVES FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE SANTA ELENA PENINSULA MARINE FAUNA WILDLIFE REFUGE EL MORRO MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE PACOCHE COASTAL MARINE WILDLIFE REFUGE ESMERALDAS RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE PARQUE LAGO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA ARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE ISLA CORAZÓN AND FRAGATAS WILDLIFE REFUGE CAYAPAS MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE LA CHIQUITA WILDLIFE REFUGE ISLA SANTAY AND ISLA DEL GALLO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA LOS SAMANES NATIONAL RECREATION AREA PAMBILAR WILDLIFE RESERVE
19
Quito
OTHER PANE AREAS 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38
42
Ibarra
29 18 19 20 21 22
23
25
EL ÁNGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE COTACACHI-CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE PULULAHUA GEOBOTANICAL RESERVE PASOCHOA WILDLIFE RESERVE ANTISANA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE EL BOLICHE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK LOS ILINIZAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE LLANGANATES NATIONAL PARK CHIMBORAZO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE CAJAS NATIONAL PARK PODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK
7
38
Pto. Baquerizo Moreno 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
PROTECTED AREAS MAP
35
31 Santa Elena
26 36 Guayaquil 5
Macas
28 Azogues
16 N W
Cuenca E
24 Machala 40
S
41
32 39
Loja Zamora
17 44
100 km
Quito
Diver with whale shark near Wolf Island
1&2
Share the beach with sea lions, iguanas, and turtles
LOCATION: 972 km west of the mainland.
AREA: 693,700 hectares (National Park). 14,110 hectares (Marine Reserve). ELEVATION: 0 – 1,707 masl.
GALÁPAGOS NATIONAL PARK and GALÁPAGOS MARINE RESERVE was born as a result of activity in marine volcanoes that pushed the islands up. Many of the volcanoes on the younger islands –such as Isabela or Fernandina– remain active. Close encounters with the exceptional fauna on land or underwater constitute an emotional and incomparable experience. To walk among the sea lions or the iguanas, the boobies with the colored feet or the tropical penguins; to have someone take a picture of you next to a giant tortoise or to swim surrounded by tame stingrays and sharks, are some of the activities on offer in the Galapagos that are not easily found anywhere else. The Galapagos has much to offer the world. In addition to its internationally famous cruises, there are white sand and lava beaches, active volcanoes, mangroves, various coral reefs, groves of enormous cacti, and exuberant rain forests that are easily accessible from the major ports. The National Park and the Galapagos Marine Reserve White sand beach on Santa Cruz Island include 33 islands and 64 islets. Some attractions can be enjoyed in he world fame of the Galápagos as a destinaa single day, on foot or in small boats; others tion for nature lovers is well earned. Fantastic require several days on boats with more draft or landscapes and animals found nowhere else and on cruise ships. It’s up to the visitor. unafraid of tourists who get close to watch them explain why the Galapagos is among the mostvisited national parks on the planet. The rise of this magnificent archipelago almost a thousand kilometers from the coast of mainland Ecuador took place millions of years ago. Galapagos
T 10
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
CLIMATE: between 19 and 26ºC from May to December. Between 31 and 33ºC from January to May. ECOSYSTEMS: arid coastal zone, rain forests of Scalesia and Miconia, mangroves, rocky and coral reefs, beaches and cliffs.
50 km Darwin Wolf
Pinta Marchena
Genovesa
Santiago Bartolomé
Fernandina
Isabela
Baltra Rábida Santa Cruz Islas Plaza San Cristóbal Pinzón Santa Fe Puerto Ayora Puerto Puerto Villamil Baquerizo Moreno
N W
E
Floreana
S
Swimming with the penguins off Bartolomé Island.
Española
Santa Cruz Island On Puerto Ayora, the major tourist center of the Galapagos, is the Charles Darwin Scientific Station, where giant tortoises are raised for their reintroduction into nature. Three kilometers from Puerto Ayora is Tortuga Bay, a white sand beach where marine turtles nest, an ideal site for surfing and snorkeling. The Garrapatero Beach, the turquoise waters of Las Grietas, and – on the highest part of the island – the Scalesia forests which can be appreciated at Los Gemelos, two enormous, nearly symmetrical holes. In addition, there is Los Túneles lookout, a curious tube of lava where owls and other birds can be seen, and the Bellavista volcanic tunnel. A few kilometers from Santa Cruz, during a day-long excursion, tourists can visit small islands, such as Seymour, Plazas, and Bartolomé, where they can swim with the penguins. San Cristóbal Island At Puerto Baquerizo Moreno there is an environmental interpretation center. Two kilometers from this center is Tijeretas Hill, with many birds, good lookouts, and trails leading to Mann Beach, a good place for snorkeling. For those who like to walk, there is El Junco Lagoon, at the island’s highest point, inside the crater of an extinct volcano. In addition, tourists can hire a boat to go to Lobos Island, thirty minutes from the port. Isabela Island Around Puerto Villamil there are a number of tourist attractions that should not be missed. These include the Playa de Amor (Love Beach), Las Tintoreras, an ideal place to swim with small sharks, the Muro de las Lágrimas (Wall of Tears), and the Tortoise Breeding Center. A visit on horseback and on foot to the enormous Sierra Negra volcanic crater is an unforgettable experience.
In the Galapagos, a warm marine current from the north and a cold current from the south meet, and this is the reason for the diverse and very special marine life of the archipelago, which includes the only tropical penguin on the planet.
11
Surfing on the coast of ManabĂ
Estero de Plátano
F
rom Punta Galera to Cabo San Francisco, across from the hidden coasts of Esmeraldas, stretches Ecuador’s newest continental marine reserve. It extends into the Pacific Ocean to a depth of 800 meters, protecting the resources found there. Fishing villages, where residents make a living through small-scale fishing, agriculture, and tourism, dot the small, picturesque beaches, known as coves, where kids play soccer with improvised balls while they wait for their dads to return from the sea. On the various beaches in the reserve, there are areas designated for ecological tourism, where the tourist can choose to camp on white sand or spend the night in airy cabins. From the hamlet of Tonchigüe, a few kilometers to the south of Atacames, a secondary road runs along the peninsula, one of the few places on the Ecuadorean coast where the rain forest
14
Forests Near the beaches, especially toward Estero de Plátano, Quinque, and Caimito, there are significant forest remnants. Toward the interior, on the other side of the San Francisco road, there are even more extensive, wetter, better conserved forests.
Estero de Plátano
Quingue
co
Caimito Tongorachí
Sa
E S
cabo San Francisco
5 km
San Francisco Bunche Muisne
sm
N
era l
punta Farallón
W
das
R ive r
punta Quingue
Tonchigüe
To E
Rock and coral reefs For snorkeling fans, just a few kilometers out to sea there are coral forests with a splendid diversity of fish and invertebrates.
punta Galera Galera
cis
still reaches the beach. The visitor will find toucans, squirrels, parrots, guans, and sloths while enjoying the sea. But this reserve’s reason for being is found under water: a tremendous diversity of coastal marine habitats. Extensive groves of colorful gorgonian and other types of corals provide a home for many fish species, including more than are found in the seas of the Galapagos. Galera-San Francisco is, besides, a feeding area for five marine turtle species and at least twenty whale and dolphin species. These resources, in addition to being important in the cycles that keep fisheries healthy, are a great attraction for snorkeling fans.
MARINE RESERVE
an
GALERA-SAN FRANCISCO MARINE RESERVE
Beaches Spectacular beaches where the natural landscape of dense forests, rocky terraces, and the turquoise sea predominate: Cumilinche, Galera, Galerita, Estero de Plátano, Quingue, Caimito, Tongorachí. Here, the major economic activity is small-scale fishing.
Fr
A world unknown below the surface
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
n
3
To Pedernales B
ilsa
R iver
Mangroves The reserve borders on the south with the Muisne River Mangrove Estuary Wildlife Reserve, one of the most important in the country. Tours can be organized by boat from San Francisco and Muisne.
LOCATION: Esmeraldas. AREA: 54,604 hectares.
ELEVATION: 0 – 300 masl.
CLIMATE: warm and humid, between 18 and 36ºC.
ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest, sandy and rocky beaches, rock and coral reefs, rocky marine bed.
Estero de Plátano beach
15
Isla de la Plata
ija
N
Puerto López The starting point for whale watching excursions and for visiting the Isla de la Plata. It offers a variety of lodging near its beaches.
Jipijapa pa
R iver
E
W
MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK
Puerto Cayo Jip
The humpbacked whales are here!
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
To Portoviejo
To Manta
S
To Guayaquil
Machalilla
Los Frailes
er
4
Bue navista
Buenavista
Ri
v
Agua Blanca
Salango of s te d yl u ou on e r sp th the
Puerto Rico
Ayampe Humpbacked whale near the Isla de la Plata
S
urrounded by enchanting beaches and conserving an exceptional archaeological heritage, Machalilla is the only national park that simultaneously protects a mainland area, a marine area, and a number of coastal islands and islets. Every July the magnificent humpbacked whale comes to this picturesque park, attracted by the warm water. A whale watching tour aboard a small boat offers unforgettable moments to observe these formidable cetaceans, weighing more than 40 tons, coming to the surface to leap high into the air. The show goes on until September; for the rest of the year, however, there are other surprises: monkeys, ocelots, sloths, deer, and coaties, residents of these dry tropical forests, as well as 270 bird species. These include three varieties of boobies that can be photographed from a distance of a few meters on the Isla de la Plata. Here, with a little bit of luck, the visitor can watch sea lions resting on the sand. The name of the island, according to legend, is due to the fact that the famous pirate Francis Drake buried a considerable treasure there. The park’s most famous beach is Los Frailes, a peaceful white sand cove surrounded by high cliffs and a magnificent dry tropical forest. In this heavenly haven, the visitor can take a warm swim, go snorkeling, enjoy the landscape, or visit tiny nearby beaches.
16
5 km
Beyond the scenic and fauna wealth, Machalilla is nothing less than a museum containing Ecuador’s pre-Colombian history. The settlement of Agua Blanca, for example, is known to have been the ancient capital of the Manteña culture, and contains archaeological remains dating from 500 CE, as well as vestiges of earlier cultures, such as Chorrera, Machalilla, and Valdivia (2600-1650 CE).
Manabí Province
Chon
isla Salango
gón C Rang olonche e
San Sebastián Hill
Puerto López
Ayampe River To Santa Elena
Santa Elena Province
The Spondylus, a shellfish whose shell was used as a means of exchange in ancient times and whose flesh is the main ingredient in a delicious dish prepared in the area, is in serious danger of extinction. The tourist route of Ecuador’s beaches is named after the Spondylus.
LOCATION: Manabí.
AREA: land: 56,184 hectares; sea: 24,165 hectares. ELEVATION: 0 – 840 masl.
CLIMATE: warm and dry, 23ºC, on average.
ECOSYSTEMS: dry forest, cloud forest, sandy and rocky beaches, rock and coral reefs, cliffs, sea beds.
Los Frailes beach
Los Frailes Rated by many as one of the country’s loveliest beaches. There is parking, a self-guiding trail with signs containing information, and lookouts. Isla de la Plata Surrounded by rock reefs and populated by many bird species. Trails run through landscapes similar to those of the Galapagos. Agua Blanca settlement A place to discover vestiges of pre-Colombian cultures. Offers community tourism, self-guiding trails, and an archaeological museum. San Sebastián A cloud forest in the middle of the park, home to birds and mammals such as the anteater and the howler monkey. Horseback tours are available. Salango and El Ahorcado Islands Seven km from Puerto López there are very attractive areas for snorkeling among the varied fish living among rock and coral reefs.
he names of the hills that make up the small Churute range are almost as picturesque as the wealth of flora and fauna within. Rising to more than 600 meters above sea level, Pancho Diablo, El Mate, Perequeté, Masvale, and Pecho de Niña are covered with fog that lifts off from a wide plain only 45 kilometers from
18
iver Guayas R
Pancho Diablo Hill El Canclón Lagoon
El Mate Hill
Churute
El Mango To La Troncal
Sto. Domingo
t
AREA: 55,212 hectares.
ELEVATION: 0 – 700 masl. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 28ºC, on average.
ECOSYSTEMS: mangroves, dry forest, cloud forest, lagoons and estuaries.
Puerto Inca
Boca de Churute de churu
LOCATION: Guayas.
Puerto Salvador To Machala
st.
Isla d e Ingle los ses
Canal
Puerto de la Cruz
de M
on
dr
ag
ón
nd
T
S
Masvale Hill
s Isla rrillo
Mangroves in the reserve
Guayaquil. Hidden in the hillsides are enchanting waterfalls while the peaks are home to colorful orchids and bromeliads. A number of trails run through the reserve’s cloud forests, where the howler monkey can still be heard and, with a little bit of luck, seen in the treetops. This surprising species, whose howl is audible at a distance of several kilometers, is in danger because of hunting and the deforestation of its habitat. Another characteristic resident of the site is the horned screamer, a strange bird whose long horn and bone-chilling call are associated with the lagoon that takes its name, located to the east of the reserve. Showy river water lentils and hyacinths float in the surrounding swamps, forming a green carpet. The mix of salt water from the Gulf of Guayaquil with fresh water from the basin of the Guayas River creates perfect conditions for the growth of the mangroves; five species form forests more than 15 meters tall, between which the visitor can move aboard a boat accompanied by expert crab harvesters from local communities. Virtually all the crab eaten in the country comes from these mangroves. If you are short on time, Manglares-Churute is an excellent choice in light of the wide variety of coastal habitats that can be visited in a single day. In addition, you need not worry about lodging as the selection available in Guayaquil and nearby towns is ample.
To Guayaquil
Mato
MANGLARES-CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
E
W
Mondra gón Isla nd
Monkeys, horned screamers, and waterfalls a stone’s throw from the city
N
10 km
e
5
E
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Mangrove tour A half hour in vehicle from the administration center, located at kilometer 48 on the Guayaquil-Puerto Inca road, you take a boat at the dock to begin an interesting tour with community guides through mangrove forests. El Canclón Lagoon Following a trail to the foot of El Mate hill, walking through wetlands, you come to a great place for watching birds, including the species for which the lagoon is named. Trails El Mate trail, almost five kilometers long, goes through dry and humid tropical forest, while El Mirador, a shorter walk with an easy climb, provides a privileged view of most of the reserve. Cerro Pancho Diablo Covered with tropical rain forest, this hill is home to monkeys, squirrels, agoutis, and a lot of birds. In two hours, you come to a pretty waterfall of medium height. Cerro Masvale The major attractions are the possibility of seeing and hearing howler monkeys and a 30 meter high waterfall on the northern slope.
Silhouette of the roseate spoonbill
19
Cotapaxi, seen from the Ilinizas
6
Walking among lagoons and giant frailejones
EL ÁNGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Lagoons of El Voladero The lagoons are surrounded by large numbers of frailejones. Parking, an information service, lookouts, and rest areas are available. El Salado The camping area offers information and guard service. Lagunas Verdes The name comes from the odd turquoise color of the water due to chlorophyllous algae. Hot baths of Tufiño, Puente Ayora, and Calera The water containing the volcano’s minerals and heat is ideal for relaxing after a day in the highlands. P o l yl ep i s forest A fairytale forest with trees with twisted red trunks. Mount Chiles This peak, 4,720 meters above sea level, is of medium difficulty for those who enjoy mountain climbing and trekking. Mount Chiles
Giant frailejones in the highlands of El Ángel
22
Mount Chiles
AREA: 15,715 hectares.
Tufiño
ELEVATION: 3,664 – 4,768 masl.
To Tulcán
Puente Ayora
i ve r
Verdes Lagoons Pl Aguas at aR Hediondas i ve r
oR
El Placer
LOCATION: Carchi.
COLOMBIA
4 720 m
To Maldonado
CLIMATE: cold, on average between 7 and 11ºC.
iq
uit
Negro hill Ch
ECOSYSTEMS: Andean forest, highlands with frailejones.
Voladero Lagoons
To Tulcán La Libertad Palo Blanco
5 km
Polylepis Forest Calera
To Quito a R iver
rich fauna of the area. The preñadilla (a fish), deer, dd spiky plants with thick trunks and large, highland foxes, spectacled bears, and marsupial fuzzy leaves adorn the mountainous topogfrogs are among the animals that have adapted to raphy of the entire reserve. They are the giant this singular ecosystem. frailejones that, like soldiers in an interminable Although the cold is penetrating in the army, rise up firm against the cold highland temhighlands of El Ángel, there is a remedy: the peratures. Some members of this fascinating many thermal springs flowing from volcanic species grow as high as seven meters, authentic depths. The Aguas Hediondas of giants that rise from the mist, formthe Tufiño baths, for example, are ing picturesque groves that make up believed to have healing properthe main attraction of this area. The ties due to their high sulfur conChiles, a volcano with an irregular tent, the mineral from which the peak that is reflected in the turquoise baths take their name. waters of the lagoons, breaks the The reserve offers magnificent uniformity of the view. This ecologisites for camping, but those who cal reserve is unique in the country in prefer to sleep indoors will find that it is home to the black-thighed lodging in El Voladero, El Salado, puffleg hummingbird, one of 320 bird species that contribute to the Black-thighed puffleg hummingbird and nearby towns.
El Ángel
Bils
O
N W
E S
23
7
Torrential rivers that carry the sound of the marimba
COTACACHI-CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
important crafts center. To the south, Cuicocha, a volcano, holds in its crater a fabulous lagoon from which two islets emerge from the volcanic rock, and on which visitors can enjoy a boat ride. The reserve rises five thousand meters, beginning almost at sea level in the forests of Esmeraldas and finally touching the steep Andean peaks. This makes the CotacachiCayapas one of the reserves with the greatest number of ecosystems in the country, and the reserve that, apart from the Galapagos, receives the greatest number of visitors.
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
LOCATION: Esmeraldas and Imbabura. AREA: 243,638 hectares.
ELEVATION: 30 – 4,939 masl.
CLIMATE: temperatures between 4 and 24ºC.
ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest, cloud forest, Andean forest, herbaceous highlands, lagoons.
Cuicocha Lagoon At 14 kilometers from Cotacachi, this is the largest highland lagoon in Ecuador. In the high part there is a natural lookout. Lagoons of Piñán A lacustrine complex located northwest of Urcuquí, visitors can fish for large rainbow trout, bird watch, and camp. Mount Cotacachi The base of this active volcano, reaching 4,939 masl, is reached via the road that goes to Cuicocha. Mount Yanahurco This inactive volcano reaches 4,538 masl. The Andean condor nests in this area. Yanayacu Hot Baths The temperature of these thermal waters is about 17ºC; the baths are located a kilometer northwest of Cotacachi. Cuicocha’s islets
T
he Cotacachi-Cayapas stretches from the Andean slopes to the interior plains of Esmeraldas. The torrential rivers that cross the reserve become calmer as they open their way through the dense, virtually unexplored tropical forest. In the cheerful, marimba-playing town of Borbón, visitors can board a small canoe and begin the adventure of riding the current. With a lot of luck, they will see the agile spider monkey swinging its large body through the branches of trees. Three hours upriver on the Santiago, they will come to the black community of Playa
24
de Oro, where pretty cabins offer lodging, an excellent choice on the edge of the reserve. The upper area, on the other hand, is home to the mysterious cloud forests of the Toisán range, where the broken terrain and abundant rivers give way to countless roaring waterfalls. Higher still, climbing toward the Andes, are the characteristic plumes of highland grass and the icy lagoons that announce the peaks of Imbabura. Cotacachi, a tempestuous pyramid of almost vertical walls, rises over the land. At the foot lies the tourist town by that same name, an
Salto del Bravo and the San Miguel waterfall From Borbón, a four hour trip in a boat along the Cayapas River takes the visitor to a lovely beach in San Miguel located near a huge waterfall 100 meters high. Playa de Oro This enchanting black community on the edge of the reserve offers ecological lodging and excursions with local guides. The Union of Farmer Organizations of Cotacachi offers an excellent option: community tourism with lodging, a wide variety of tours, and trekking in the reserve.
Cayapas River
25
San José de Cayapas
Playa de Oro Las Peñas
Lita
ro R i ver Neg S a nti a g o R ive r
iv
To San Lorenzo Carolina
sR
iv
aR
er
San Miguel
R iver
Telembí er
Lita
Esmeraldas Province
Carchi Province Mir
Caya
pa
Guallupe
San Migu el R i ve Corriente Larga
Imbabura Province Lachas R iver
r
r
ua C v lara Ri
La Merced de Buenos Aires
Ba r b ud o R ive
Ag
er
Piñán Mount Yanahurco Donoso Lagoon El Rosario
Tarmuayacu
Guananín Urcuquí
Cuellaje Mount Cotacachi
ge an R n Toisá
10 km
Yaguarcocha
Peñaherrera
r
Ibarra Yanayacu Hot Baths Cotacachi
er Riv
Brillasol
I ntag
S
na
E
Magdale
W
Imantag
Plaza Gutiérrez
Ri
ve
N
4 939 m
Apuela
Vacas Galindo Íntag
Cuicocha To Quito
Atuntaqui Mount Imbabura 4 630 m
Selva Alegre García Moreno
Otavalo San Pablo lagoon
r
er
E
ua
S
R ylla amba b Chaupisacha
Gu
Infiernillo
ayllab
PULULAHUA GEOBOTANICAL RESERVE
ive
N W
Blanco Riv
Fun and adventure in the crater of a volcano
G
8
San José de Nieblí
amba R ive
Moraspungo
To L o s Ba
Ventanillas lookout La Marca Hill
Calacalí
nc os 5 km
r
Lulumbamba Guarumal El Pailón Hill Pondoña Hill Chivo Hill Pululahua
San Antonio
Rumicucho
Mitad del Mundo To Quito
LOCATION: Pichincha. AREA: 3,383 hectares.
ELEVATION: 1,600 – 3,356 masl.
CLIMATE: temperate, between 14 and 20ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest.
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Ventanillas Lookout This can be reached from the Quito-Calacalí highway. Visitors can view the crater of the volcano and its admirable landscape. The views are better in the morning, before the fog descends.
Pululahua crater
A
few kilometers north of Quito, the Earth is divided in two: an odd monument, known as the Middle of the World, commemorates the geodesic expedition of La Condamine and indicates the equinoctial line (though, in fact, it runs a few kilometers to the north). This famous monument is the perfect antechamber to Ecuador’s unique geobotanical reserve, a mere ten minutes away, all of which can be appreciated from the Ventanillas Lookout. While at first glance Pululahua seems to be a valley surrounded by steep green hills, it is, in fact, the fertile crater of an active volcano. For the last two thousand years, is has been home to a series of farm communities. Its name, according to residents, means “cloud of water,” due to the heavy fog that hangs over the reserve every afternoon, giving the landscape an enigmatic tone.
28
Descending from the Ventanillas Lookout along a steep 450-meter trail, the visitor comes to the interior of the immense crater where there is no lack of options: mineral water springs, vestiges of ancient human settlements on the edges and climbing the sides of great volcanic domes such as the Pondoña. Multi-hued hummingbirds and butterflies compete for the nectar of flowers along the numerous trails and hillsides of Pululahua. Depending on visitors’ preferences, they can travel on foot, on horseback, or by bicycle along the community’s streets. The presence of this garden so near the city is a privilege. Those tempted to enjoy the spot for more than a day can choose from among a number of hostels, hacienda houses, and camping facilities in areas designated for that purpose.
Cerro Pondoña and El Pailón Pondoña is the highest point within the crater. In the area there are huge numbers of butterflies and on the northwestern flank is El Pailón from which emerge smaller springs of thermal waters. Lulumbamba This is a more distant part of the reserve in the northwest and more difficult to get to. At the highest point there are vestiges of ancient human settlements, including bowls, pots, and skeletons. Moraspungo A recreation area to the south of the Ventanillas Lookout, it offers complete infrastructure: picnic umbrellas, grills, cabins, bathrooms, and water. Chaupisacha Located in the lowest part of the reserve, the area has patches of native forest ideal for bird watching.
Descending to the Infernillo (little hell)
29
Trails of diversity in a sleeping volcano
PASOCHOA WILDLIFE RESERVE a species endemic to the Ecuadorian Andes and in danger of disappearing because of its use in the traditional Holy Week ceremony. This is the palm that grows at higher elevations in the world. Located 45 kilometers southeast of Quito, the refuge offers spots for camping, two shelters that can take up to ten people each, and a kitchen, dining room, and bathrooms. Because it is close to the city, it is a preferred site for urban families eager to spend a weekend with nature. Flanks of Mount Pasochoa
T
he song of southern yellow grosbeaks accompanies visitors who go into the high Andean forest found in this refuge, where bird lovers will find more than one hundred species, among which the beauty and variety of the evanescent hummingbirds stand out. Those who take a trail called Los Pantzas will get to the top of Pasochoa in a mere eight hours and, by way of reward, will have a view of the horizon adorned by a dozen volcanoes: Pichincha, Atacazo, Antisana, Ilinizas, Corazón, Cotopaxi, Rumiñahui, Sincholagua, Puntas, Cayambe, Chimborazo… Difficult access to the area in past decades and the steepness of the terrain prevented agriculture and livestock grazing, turning Pasochoa into an authentic refuge where we can still find animals and plants that previously inhabited the entire inter-Andean region. Rodents, rabbits, highland foxes, mountain deer, frogs, and bats are some of the representative fauna of the refuge, difficult to see due to nocturnal habits or timidity, though more adventurous visitors can take walks at night to try to see them. Over the thick layer of volcanic ash that covers the flanks of Pasochoa, medicinal plants, exotic orchids, and the native wax palm grow; the palm is
30
LOCATION: Pichincha. AREA: 500 hectares.
ELEVATION: 2,800 – 4,210 masl.
CLIMATE: cold, 10 to 15ºC on the slopes, 3 to 9ºC in the highlands. ECOSYSTEMS: Andean forest, herbaceous highland.
Pasochoa, between the peaks of Cotopaxi and Rumiñahui.
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Trails There are six options of varying difficulty and length, with signs of different colors indicating views, birds, and native plants: - Del Colibrí, an easy walk (thirty minutes). - Amiga Naturaleza, an easy walk (thirty minutes). - Bosque para Todos, medium effort (an hour). - Mayguayacu, good amount of effort (two hours). - Palma de Cera, a lot of effort (four hours). - Los Pantzas, a whole lot of effort (eight hours).
To Quito Tambillo
To Amaguaña
camping area To Machachi
Mount Pasochoa 4 230 m N W
Nighttime outings The refuge offers the chance to go for a walk at night to observe nocturnal fauna.
information center
San Pedro Ri ver
9
E
1 km
S
Bird watching Pasochoa’s major attraction, with 126 bird species, including 14 hummingbirds. Pasochoa Environmental Education Center Dedicated to education programs on care of the environment, ecology, and volcanology. Offers information and guides. Open every day.
Hikers can take a long but gratifying trek from Pasochoa southeast to Mount Rumiñahui and Cotopaxi National Park.
31
ANTISANA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
Encantada Lagoon To Quito Papallacta Sucus Lagoon Píntag Pa pa Antisanilla Papallacta lla cta Lagoon R i ve r Muertepungo Lagoon Luciacocha
Pichincha Province
To Quito Mount Sincholagua Micacocha
Mount Antisana
El Chaco Pan de Azúcar 3 500 m
Baeza
N
5 755 m
Quijos
W
R
4 893 m
Ta
R i ver
Mount Quilindaña 4 877 m
An
tis
Verdecocha
ana
R ive r
10 km
Las Caucheras Gu ac Ranamay ge os
er
32
bo
er
Wetlands in this reserve provide potable water to Quito, and help generate electricity for more than 100 thousand people.
m
R iv
T
o enter Antisana is to come into the world of the magnificent Andean condor. On the way, very close to the northern access to the reserve, we come upon strange rocky walls that offer the first great opportunity to appreciate this colossal bird. Towering above is Antisana, an active volcano of great height and with an attractive silhouette, rarely seen in its entirety. Dense clouds ascending from the Amazon hide the volcano most of the time and release their humidity on the extensive surrounding highlands. A few kilometers away, on Antisanilla, between Pintag and Antisana, past activity of the volcano is evident where a lava flow emerges suddenly from the earth, forming what appear to be waves of rocks. Above, the cushions of vegetation that cover these extensive highlands make it possible to keep one’s feet dry while climbing from
Cosanga Co san ga Ri v Ve r d e ya c u
Highlands of Antisana
the valley of the Tambo along the wet hillsides that surround Antisana, or to approach the numerous lagoons with their icy waters and abundant aquatic vegetation. More ambitious hikers can begin here a walk of several days to Cotopaxi National Park and, perhaps, appreciate the sight of a condor in flight. To the east, the Quijos and Cosanga rivers open on their way to the Amazon plain, through the abrupt topography of Andean flanks and steep drops along the Guacamayos range. A few kilometers after crossing the borders of the reserve, these rivers are perfect for producing the extreme emotions that come from rafting and kayaking.
E S
To Tena
LOCATION: Pichincha and Napo. AREA: 120,000 hectares.
ELEVATION: 1,200 – 5,758 masl.
To Lago Agrio
r
The last refuge of the majestic Andean condor
ive
10
CLIMATE: varies between 3 and 17ºC, based on altitude.
ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest, herbaceous highlands, lagoons, and wetlands.
Jondachi
Napo Province
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS M ic acoc ha and M ount Antisana ( 5,75 5 m asl) For climbers, the fourth highest volcano in the country has three peaks considered very difficult. Micacocha, on the southern flank, is famous for its views, large trout, and aquatic and migratory birds. Tambo Valley Located in the far northwest of the area, the valley offers outstanding views of the highlands, rocky formations, and hot baths. Here the trail for climbing Antisana begins, as does another that leads to Cotopaxi National Park, ideal for hikes lasting several days. Santa Lucía or Mauca Machay Lagoon A preferred spot for camping on the northwestern flanks of Antisana, with a view of the lagoon which appears to be tilted, an unusual visual effect. Ravines of El Isco Together with the rocky walls next to the access way, one of the major resting places for the Andean condor.
Micacocha
Guacamayos Range Rising in the extreme southeast of the reserve, this is the most important biodiversity center of the area, as witnessed by more than 400 bird species and almost half of the country’s plant species.
Eastern slope of Mount Antisana
33
Pu
A lovely combination of native and introduced flora
ch
Pichincha Province
ito
al
11
la
Ra
vin
Cotopaxi National Park
e
Lu
m
EL BOLICHE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA
aR
av
ine
CLIMATE: cold, 8 °C, on average.
Sunfana Hill Cotopaxi Province
To Quito
Quishuar trail
train station
AREA: 392 hectares.
ELEVATION: 3,000 - 3,704 masl.
Sunfana trail
p
an
LOCATION: border between Cotopaxi and Pichincha.
N
picnic area
W
E
ECOSYSTEMS: pine forest, herbaceous highlands.
S
R ive
To Cotopaxi National Park
chi
To Latacunga
Cu t u
Panamerican Highway km 60
1 km
r
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Train ride An enjoyable ride through the inter-Andean pass, leaving the Chimbacalle Station in the south of Quito and arriving in El Boliche Station. El Boliche Sector In the singular small plaza, surrounded by trees and bushes, there are shelters (cabañas) for picnics and a restaurant open on weekends. Bicycle path through pine forests
T
hough small in terms of area, gorgeous El Boliche captivates visitors with the splendid pine forests that cover almost half of the site. Named for a picturesque natural formation surrounded by trees and bushes, El Boliche is the smallest protected area in the country, covering a mere 392 hectares. Nevertheless, because it is almost adjacent to Cotopaxi National Park there is plenty to see. The California pines were introduced in 1928 as a scientific experiment to determine the adaptability of conifers to high altitudes. Although they are foreign to our natural landscape, with the local flora, consisting mainly of mosses, lichens, ferns, and bushes, they create an interesting combination. El Boliche is the starting point of an annual mountain bike race that is now a classic: The Cotopaxi Tour. But visitors do not have to partici-
34
pate in the race to enjoy pedaling along the bicycle trails at any time of the year. Visitors can get to El Boliche by car via the Panamerican, but it is more fun and interesting to go to this refuge by train. The old train leaves the Chimbacalle Station, in the south of Quito, at 8h00, traveling through inter-Andean valleys and arriving at midday at El Boliche Station. The return is at 15h00, giving visitors enough time to walk along trails through the thick forest or enjoy a picnic to the song of trushes, hummingbirds, and colorful tanagers. For those who prefer to spend the night, El Boliche has camping areas and cabins for rent to tourists. But do take enough food, liquids, and warm clothing for the night which, marked by the sound of horned and other owl species, can be very cold.
Sunfana Lookout Located on a hill called Sunfana, the highest point in the area, visitors can see the area around Cotopaxi, as well as pine and cypress forests. There is a camping site. Quishuar Trail The path offers a 45 minute walk through an enchanting pine forest. Hikes Following the Sunfana Trail for two hours, visitors come to Mount Rumiñahui. Taking the trail toward Churupinto and Daule, they can go through Caspi to Cotopaxi National Park. With guides familiar with the area, hikers can get to Cotopaxi National Park and, from there, to the Antisana Ecological Reserve.
El Boliche’s train station
35
LOCATION: Cotopaxi, Pichincha, and Napo.
Mount Sincholagua 4 893 m
Pichincha Province
Ri
Mount Rumiñahui 4 722 m
N
ve r
W
E S
Chaupi
To La
Inca`s Fortress
Limpiopungo Lagoon
refuge Mount Cotopaxi 5 897 m
ELEVATION: 3,400 – 5,897 masl. CLIMATE: cold, between 9 and 11ºC, on average.
Napo Province
Santa Rita
Mount Morurco 4 880 m
Cotopaxi Province
AREA: 32,255 hectares.
ECOSYSTEMS: herbaceous highlands, dry highlands, lagoons, and wetlands.
i River ch
10 km
Tam
San Juan de Pastocalle
Cutu
El Boliche
tacunga
COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK
Machachi
Pi t a
A dazzling encounter with the highest active volcano in the world
To Q u ito
12
er Riv bo
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Climbing Cotopaxi This can be done throughout the year, and the peak is ideal for non-professional climbers; direction from a certified guide is required, and climbers need to acclimatize themselves and be in good physical shape. Limpiopungo A lagoon of peaceful, dark, shallow waters that attract a variety of aquatic and migratory birds. José Rivas Refuge on Mount Cotopaxi
A
mere 60 kilometers south of Quito, the mighty Cotopaxi rises up among the clouds. This is the highest active volcano in the world. At 5,897 meters, the almost perfectly symmetrical cone can be seen from the capital on a clear day. This iconic snow-covered peak has become one of the major tourist attractions in the country, and Cotopaxi National Park is one of the most-visited reserves. As if one extraordinary volcano were not enough, to the northwest of the park rises the extinct Rumiñahui (4,722 masl). Its unmistakable notched profile is reflected in the dark waters of Limpiopungo, a lagoon, possibly produced by a glacier, that used to have a surface area of 200 hectares. Though its waters have retreated considerably over the years, the lagoon is home to a
36
good number of the 80 bird species in the park, many of them migratory. Residuals of eruptions surround both volcanoes: solidified lava, ash, and lahars that have flowed hundreds of kilometers, and an extensive plain almost devoid of vegetation, but filled with volcanic rocks of various sizes and shapes. A number of mammal species have adapted to this harsh landscape: skunks, weasels, shrews, bats, highland foxes, rabbits, and deer are some of these. Visitors who are not interested in trying to reach Cotopaxi’s peak can still enjoy the splendid landscape on foot, horseback, or bicycle. Many local tour operators and nearby lodging sites offer guides, horses, bicycles, and all the equipment the tourist will need.
Cajas Lakes A complex of 15 small, permanent lagoons located in the southeast of the park. Mount Rumiñahui The name means “stone face.” The peak can be climbed from Limpiopungo Lagoon; the ascent includes rock climbing. Pucará del Salitre The remains of an Inca fortress whose walls can be seen from the walk to Pita River, beginning on the plain of Limpiopungo and heading east. Some 900 people climb Cotopaxi every year. The mountain refuge can easily house 100 persons and has emergency services.
Glacier on Cotopaxi
37
S
To a c h i R i v
e
r
To Sto. Doming o
Aloag
North Iliniza El Chaupi 5 016 m South Iliniza Isinliví
Lasso
Chugchilán Quilotoa
San
4 786 m
La Maná
Saquisilí Mount Quilotoa 4 010 m
Pa
Zumbahua
Pujilí
Cotopaxi Province Pa t a t
El Corazón Moraspungo
LOCATION: Pichincha, Cotopaxi, and Sto. Domingo. EXTENSION: 149,900 hectares.
ELEVATION: 800 – 5,265 masl.
CLIMATE: cold, between 9 and 11ºC, on average.
ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest, herbaceous highlands, dry highlands.
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
Latacunga
Pilaló
e R iver
Angamarca
Pangua
To Quito
Quind igu
a
Machachi Mount El Corazón
5 266 m
iver
38
Pichincha Province
R i Tandapi v
Sigchos
er Riv
oR bl
Crevice in South Iliniza
n
Sarapullo
Pucayacu
o be able to leave the city at dawn, climb a peak of more than five thousand meters, and return to the urban area at sunset is a privilege on offer in very few places around the world. One of these is Quito and North Iliniza, the smaller and more accessible peak in this reserve. On the other hand, its twin, South Iliniza, is demanding and severe: the ascent requires technique, practice, patience, and special equipment; a challenge even for the most experienced climbers. An enchanted forest full of trees with twisted, reddish trunks, known as pantzas, or paper trees, welcomes explorers before they arrive at the refuge, from which the way to either of the two peaks begins. On the south side of the reserve, a unique natural feature attracts visitors: the Quilotoa Lagoon. Like a resplendent emerald-green mirror, it is incrusted at the bottom of the crater of an active volcano. The 440-meter descent to the shore is a child’s game compared to the steep, arduous return. Fortunately, for the less resistant, mules can change the hard ascent into an enjoyable outing. A few kilometers to the south of the reserve is a land rich in crafts. In Tigua, the artists who paint colorful pictures on sheep skin, interpreting daily events and mythical creatures, have become famous in recent years. Tourists can also visit the markets in Pujilí and Saquisilí, renowned for their weavings and ceramics. While the reserve is known for the twin peaks of the Ilinizas, it also protects thousands of hectares of western subtropical forests in the Andes which, though littleexplored, are exceptionally diverse.
ató
E
ILINIZAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
T
Pi l
er
Las Pampas
N W
To hi River
Twin snow-covered peaks, a turquoise lagoon, and steep cloud forests
Sto. Domingo de los Tsáchilas Province
ac
13
Angama rca R iv er
10 km
Los Ilinizas From the village of El Chaupi visitors arrive to the refuge. From there they can go to either peak: North (5,016 masl) or South (5,266 masl). The view from both peaks is spectacular. Quilotoa Lagoon A body of water more than three square kilometers in size in the crater of Mount Quilotoa. Access is along the road to Zumbahua. There are a number of places offering food, lodging, and guided sight-seeing. El Corazon (4,786 masl) A volcano easy to climb located at the far northeast of the reserve, near Quito. Toachi Canyon A huge ravine 40 meters deep through which the Toachi River runs, very near the headwaters. Chugchilán-Sigchos Two small, attractive villages where other paths into the reserve begin. It is recommended that visitors hire local guides to explore this Andean and subtropical area. Zarapullo Located in the northwest of the reserve, this is a natural lookout with a view of subtropical forests to the west and the peaks of the Andean range to the east. Pangua At the far southwest of the reserve are the relicts of subtropical rain forest. From the villages of Pucayacu and Pangua, visitors begin hikes along trails that go through the forest. The company of local guides is necessary.
Volcano and Quilotoa Lagoon
39
Latacunga
E
W S
Rive
Salcedo
Pisayambo Lagoons Yanacocha
Ab C
nganates Lla
T
Patate Pelileo
10 km
Baños
Río Verde
Río Negro
Pastaza River
Pastaza Province
To Pu yo
4 639 m
El Triunfo
River
Mount Cerro Hermoso
Ambato
gua ita sts re
o op
Tungurahua Province
Mulatos River Jatunyacu
ELEVATION: 1,200 – 4,571 masl.
CLIMATE: cold in the upper parts and warm and humid in the lower. ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest, shrubby highlands, frailejones highlands, herbaceous highlands, lagoons, and wetlands.
To Te na
Th e
San José de Poaló
r
El Mirador
LOCATION: Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Napo, and Pastaza. AREA: 219,707 hectares.
r io
LLANGANATES NATIONAL PARK
Napo Province
An a no Te
A legend of beauty and adventure
N
Cotopaxi Province
To Quito
14
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Pisayambo Lagoons A lovely lacustrine system that can be reached from the town of Píllaro, to the west of the park. A lot of trails that run through the highlands begin here. Mount Cerro Hermoso (4,639 masl) From the lagoons, the visitor can take the long, laborious hike to this peak, the highest point in the park. El Mirador (the lookout) This is at a medium elevation near Pisayambo, with a spectacular view of highlands and smaller lagoons in the area.
Mount Cerro Hermoso
H
undreds of expeditions have been organized since colonial times in search of the coveted Inca treasure that, according to legend, Rumiñahui hid in some corner of the Llanganates. Although explorers return empty-handed, they discover another treasure: the natural wonders of the area. The adventure of entering this national park is unequalled in any other; its broken terrain requires effort and expert local guides without whom visitors will get lost easily. The mythical Llanganates are the perfect destination for lovers of high-level adventure. With altitudes spanning more than 3,000 meters, the park has one of the highest rates of landscape diversity in Ecuador: steep mountains, shrub highlands with frailejones, wetlands, cloud forests, valleys, hills, rivers, and lagoons. As a
40
result, the activities on offer to tourists are varied, from sports fishing to climbing broken peaks. Though for humans the landscape is wild, for other species the Llanganates are home: spectacled bears, mountain deer, Andean tapirs, foxes, and subtropical nocturnal monkeys. At the same time, the variety of birds surprises even the most avid of bird watchers, and includes from rare Andean species to numerous types of parrots on mountainsides that drop to the Amazon. The splendor of this magical place is reflected even in its name. Llankanati is a Kichwa word for “site for delivering” or “visiting,” an expression that perhaps refers to the veil of mystery shrouding the Llanganates. They say that the profile of the highest point, the Hermoso Peak, or Tupu, is that of the Inca Atahualpa’s head, but it is covered in clouds most of the time, as is the legendary treasure.
Abitagua Crests Mountains of the upper Amazon, to the east of the reserve, ideal for watching parrots and other bird species. Rivers in the eastern area The Mulatos River basin, with a number of outstanding endemic species of orchids and epiphytic plants. Rivers and waterfalls in the southern area From the Baños-Puyo highway, visitors can reach the Topo, Verde, and Negro rivers and their waterfalls which contain a wide range of biodiversity and a large number of endemic species. The World Wildlife Fund, an international conservation organization, has declared this reserve a “Gift to the Earth,” the highest honor it awards to a protected area.
Mulatos River, with the peak of Mount Cerro Hermoso in the background
N
Simiatug
E
To Ambato
to R
S
Rumipata
CHIMBORAZO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE
Tamboloma
W
ive r
5 km
ba
Kingdom of the colossus of the Andes
Am
15
Salinas
S
na ali
s Riv
er
Tungurahua Province
Cununyacu
Abraspungo Valley Verdepungu
Bolívar Province
Carihuairazo
Mechahuasca El Arenal
5 020 m
6 310 m
Padrerumi
iver
CLIMATE: cold, between 0 and 10ºC. ECOSYSTEMS: Andean forest, sandy ground, herbaceous highlands, dry highlands.
iob am b
To Riobamba
To R
r R ive
ga n
aR
ELEVATION: 3,200 – 6,310 masl.
Pulinguí San Pablo Pulinguí Centro Chimborazo Province San Andrés
G uR i v
Lla
ch
ice mines
Machay temple Cunuguachay
ma
To G u a
r
da an
Mo
Chimborazo refuge
AREA: 58,560 hectares.
a
Cruz del Arenal
LOCATION: Bolívar, Tungurahua, and Chimborazo.
an er o
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Mount Chimborazo (6,310 masl) The reserve has two refuges for mountain climbers. The ascent is somewhat difficult and requires the ability to climb on ice, good acclimatization, and physical resistance. Mount Carihuairazo (5,020 masl) Chimborazo’s neighbor, though not as high. The crater is two kilometers in diameter.
Highland fox with Chimborazo in the background
F
rom Guayaquil, when the clouds clear and the air turns crystalline, you can see on the horizon the resplendent peak of taita (father, in Kichwa) Chimborazo. If this giant inspires admiration at a distance of 600 kilometers, standing at its foot is an overwhelming experience. With 6,310 meters of granite and ice, the highest volcano in the country is this reserve’s major attraction. The colossal, 20 kilometers in diameter, rises in the middle of a semi-arid grassland where the scarce vegetation alternates with patches of sand, a scene very different from the humid highlands in the rest of Ecuador. Facing Chimborazo’s bulk is Carihuairazo, an extinct volcano whose enormous collapsed crater suggests that it might have once been as large as its neighbor’s. A long and demanding walk between the two snow-covered peaks is rewarded by spectacular views of monumental glaciers.
42
But the frozen Andean peaks are not the only delightful aspect of these unique highlands. Some trails in the reserve have become famous for mountain biking, especially the path that drops from the refuge on Chimborazo to the villages of Urbina and San Juan, toward the inter-Andean valley. Traveling around the enormous Chimborazo on the highway to Guaranda, sometimes covered in snow, the arid landscape gives way to a mantle of colorful patches formed by Andean crops. Llamas, vicuñas, and alpacas wander about the reserve, created more than 20 years ago in order to reintroduce and protect these members of the camel family. Baltasar Ushca is famous for being the last iceman on Chimborazo. Every week he climbs on foot to the volcano’s snow covered areas to get ancient ice from its glaciers, which he then sells in the markets of Riobamba.
Hot springs In Cununyacu, at 3,600 masl and near the Colorado River, there is a complex of three pools with mineral waters that reach 35ºC. Guided hikes One of the most difficult is the MochaMechahuasca, which takes two days and covers the distance between Chimborazo and Carihuairazo. During the other hike in the south of the reserve, tourists visit the Machay Temple, an ancestral site for making offerings to Chimborazo. La Chorrera A huge canyon where the river by the same name is born and which exhibits huge, sharp rocks cut vertically and reaching up to 100 meters high. Community tourism The communities of Santa Anita, Pulingui San Pablo, Cruz del Arenal, and Simiátug offer lodging, food, and excursions with experienced guides.
Climber crowning the Whymper Needle, on Chimborazo
43
16
Intricate highlands dotted with mirrors
Taplacocha
5 km Patul
N W
Molleturo
Tres Cruces To Guayaquil
eb
A rock climbing site in Cajas
A good part of the water from this park feeds the Paute Hydroelectric Complex, the most important energy source in the country, and provides potable water to the city of Cuenca.
44
Estrellascocha
Riv
er Sayausí To Cuenca
ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest, herbaceous highlands, lagoons, and wetlands.
er
Ventanas Lagoon
ba
AREA: 28,544 hectares.
CLIMATE: cold, between -2 and 18ºC.
m To
Llaviucu Lagoon
M
Chaucha
iv
ore than 200 lagoons of all sizes dot the labyrinth of Azuay’s highlands. For those who fish for sport, the ponds populated with trout are heavenly. Unlike the highlands to the north, generally dominated by high peaks, the topography of Cajas is filled with small, rounded hills, among which are dispersed, like the lovely lagoons, forests of pantzas (Polylepis), with their twisted branches and their unusual reddish trunks. Mist, fog, and days of intense sunlight tint the park’s landscape, where the meeting of coastal and Amazon wind currents make the weather somewhat unpredictable. The scenic wealth of Cajas is complemented by the cultural treasures hidden in Cuenca, a mid-size, picturesque city only 30 kilometers from the national park and one of the major tourist attractions of the country. One might say that Cajas is Cuenca’s garden. Because it is on the side of the major access road, the Toreadora Lagoon is visited more than any other, and the bar and cafeteria service provide comfort in the midst of a magnificent landscape. From this point a number of trails lead the hiker to innumerable lagoons and valleys, inviting the hiker to set up a tent. But Cajas is more than a beautiful natural site for relaxing. Trails and rocks at every level of difficulty attract the best climbers in the country and the world, making the park one of the most attractive areas in Ecuador for rock climbers. Mountain cyclers also find great challenges here.
Toreadora Lagoon
K Tocllacocha Lagartococha apak ñan Canoyillos Lagoon Taitachungo Lagoon a m Osohuaycu Lagoon
LOCATION: Azuay.
ELEVATION: 3,150 – 4,445 masl.
S
Chorreras Lagoon
Migüir
C A J A S N AT I O N A L PA R K
E
Ya n u n
Paredones
cay
R
Baños
Soldados
Lagoons in the highlands of Cajas
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Llaviucu Park and Lagoon A natural and recreational destination 17 kilometers northeast of Cuenca. Ideal for fishing, bird watching, or walking along one of three self-guided trails. Toreadora Lagoon From here the visitor can go to the area’s environmental interpretation center and to the Illincocha, Taitachungo, and Unidas lagoons. Lagartococha Lagoon This is the largest in the park and a favorite among sports fishermen. The surroundings offer beautiful views of the highlands. Tres Cruces Hill A natural lookout more than 4,200 masl where a watershed is located, one side leading to the Amazon and the other to the Pacific. Ingañán or Kapakñán Road A four kilometer stretch of the old Inca road, between the Luspa Cave and the Mamamag Lagoon, has been restored. A good part of the way is paved with the stones originally used. 45
as
ELEVATION: 900 – 3,600 masl.
r
ve r
Zamora Ri
PODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK
AREA: 146,280 hectares.
ac
ve
Loja Province
Bo
Tres Cruces
mbusc
ara
Zamora Chinchipe Province
Compadre Lagoons
Romerillos Bajo ve
r
s Range
umbiritza
tz
Ri N
W
E S
Riv
er
ba To Z u m
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
Numb
a la R iv er
a
Toledo Hill
Ch
Nangari
Yangana
Sabanilla
Vilcabamba Quinara
Tapichalaca Hill Valladolid
10 km
Near the park is Vilcabamba, a mythical town that, they say, based on the unusual longevity of its residents, contains the secret of a long life.
Compadre Lagoons This system of lagoons, famous for trout fishing, is fourteen kilometers from the Cajanuma administrative center. Visitors may camp on the shores and explore the surroundings dotted with smaller lagoons. Bombuscaro Six kilometers from Zamora is a sector that takes its name from the Bombuscaro River, with selfguided trails, a large diversity of birds, and a pleasant climate, ideal for a swim. Cerro Toledo A natural lookout in the south of the park from which visitors can observe the forest and the topography typical of the southern Andes. Ideal for bird watching.
Cloud forest in Sabanillas
46
ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest, shrub highlands, herbaceous highlands, lagoons.
Cajanuma
Banderillas Lagoons
his park, with its megadiversity, descends from the cold Andean highlands to the hot Amazon basin. It takes its name from the ancient romerillo, or Podocarpus. The romerillo is the only native conifer in the country, and just one of the four thousand plant species that grow here. It is not unusual to find eight kinds of colorful orchids on the trunk of a single tree of medium height. Just imagin there are giants up to forty meters tall! These veritable skyscrapers provide a residence for dozens of different species. For bird lovers, Podocarpus is also an exceptional place. More than 600 species make this destination a must not only for experts but also for
CLIMATE: varies according to altitude, between 6 and 22ÂşC.
Bombuscaro
Malacatos
T
LOCATION: Loja and Zamora Chinchipe.
M
Loja
To
Sabanilla
Ri
The great natural space in the south of the country
Zumbi
Zamora
17
Yangana and Quinara Valleys Two small valleys in the south of the park where, according to belief, Inca treasures are hidden.
bird watching hobbyists. In 1997, the significance of the avian fauna increased even more with the discovery of the jocoto, a rare and timid species of antpitta found near the park and of which some fifty-plus individuals have been sighted. This biological wealth has, as a backdrop, landscapes of incomparable beauty: from valleys to mountains and extensive grasslands, steep hillsides and deep canyons, crystalline rivers, impressive waterfalls, and close to one hundred lagoons that can be visited by hikers. On the way to the Compadre Lagoons there is a picturesque refuge equipped with dining room and kitchen, and a few comfortable cabins that allow the visitor to enjoy longer stays in Podocarpus.
Sabanillas Range The pass to this branch of the Andes, on the highway to Valladolid, provides access to an Andean forest and herbaceous highlands, both extraordinary. Nearby is the private Tapichalaca Reserve, the home of the very rare jocotoco antpitta. Vilcabamba Valley This legendary warm valley is located south of Loja, on the way to Yangana and Valladolid. It is famous for the longevity of its inhabitants. It is near the park with which it shares native forests ideal for hikes. The jocotoco antpitta, an endemic bird in the south of the country
47
The Laguna Grande of the Cuyabeno River
18
A magical labyrinth of flooded forest
CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS LOCATION: Sucumbíos and Orellana. AREA: 603,380 hectares.
ELEVATION: 200 – 280 masl.
CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest, lagoons, and wetlands.
Cuyabeno Lagoons A complex of 14 interconnected black water lagoons. In the Laguna Grande there are three trails that wind through the forest: Hormiga, Saladero de Dantas, and Palma Roja. Zancudococha This is the largest and roundest black water lagoon of the Ecuadorian Amazon, where aquatic fauna can be seen, especially black and spectacled caimans. Cuyabeno River Visitors can paddle dugouts along the small tributaries of the Cuyabeno to see close up turtles and innumerable bird species. Lagarto River Complex An enormous set of lagoons and rivers, home to manatees and pink dolphins that tend to receive visitors by blowing streams of water.
This is the protected area with the greatest number of ethnic groups, indigenous communities belonging to the Siona, Secoya, Cofán, Kichwa, and Shuar nationalities.
Community tourism Lodging and excursions with indigenous communities in the reserve, such as the Cofán of Zábalo, along with visits to communities and conversations with their chiefs.
Dusk falls on the flooded forests of Cuyabeno
T
hat picture of the Amazon covered by monotonous stretches of impenetrable forest is shattered by the magical Cuyabeno, where trees emerge from the water, rivers turn into winding arteries, and sunsets have the color of marmalade. In this enchanted land there are no common creatures but, instead, characters from fantastic tales: giant otters and dwarf caimans, monkeys that fit in a pocket, pink dolphins, and even the capybara, a rodent that weighs 50 kilos, the largest in the world! Bewitched by the swaying current, the Imuyacocha Islands take on life and begin a new day at a site other than the one we left them at the night before. And as if this weren’t enough enchantment for Cuyabeno, in the peaceful Zancudococha the sky has doubled: there’s one above, blue, infiPigmy marmoset nite, and populated with fluffy clouds,
50
and another below, a perfect reflection of the first in an immense mirror of black and, at the same time, crystalline water. Macaws, toucans, multicolored tanagers, agile monkeys, and sleepy sloths adorn the vegetation that surrounds Cuyabeno’s aquatic labyrinths: small, interconnected lagoons around which dugouts equipped with paddles and a few boats with outboard motors circulate. And, on a sunny afternoon it is hard to resist the temptation to test the water of the flooded forests. If swimming among trees seems like a fantasy, doing so among caimans, dolphins, and piranhas is even more surprising, something only possible in these magical lands. There is a wide selection of lodging inside and outside the reserve, satisfying tastes from those of the most citified to those of the most intrepid of explorers.
Canangüeno Lagoon in the Cuyabeno River
51
San M iguel R
ive
N
Puerto El Carmen de Putumayo
10 km
r
W
Dureno Pu
Colombia
ayo R i ver
S
Sucumbíos Province
Laguna Grande Cuyabeno Bridge
Churitza
Tarapoa
Cu ya b e n o R
Tarapoa Lagoon
Puerto Bolívar
ag o Agr io
i ve r
To L
tum
fork in the road at Tarapoa
Gü
Shushufindi
epi R iver
To Coca
Shu
Ag
sh
u fi
uar ico iver R
rico
Playas de Cuyabeno
R iver
Pañacocha Pompeya
Napo
er
r
Limoncocha
Perú
Riv
ve
Pigualí Lagoon
ha
(Area where conservation is absolute) Ag ua ric or i
R i ve r
Limoncocha Biological Reserve
Cuyabeno - Imuya Intangible Zone
coc
ndi
ua
Lagar to
Ag
San Pablo de Kantesiayá
Sábalo
Pañacocha
R iver Garzacocha
Garzacocha Añangucocha
Piuricocha
Yuturi
Orellana Province
Imuya Lagoon Zancudococha
Ti p u t i ni
Riv
er
Nap
oR
iv er
Tiputini boca del Tiputini
Yasuní National Park
E
19
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
A sea of biodiversity, from the Andean snows to the Amazon
CAYAMBE-COCA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
Papallacta Lagoon and Ñucanchi Turupamba lacustrine complex Some 60 large and small lagoons surrounded by highlands and Andean forest, with self-guided trails and camp sites. Nearby are thermal waters and the beginning of the trekking routes “Water and Life” and “Sucus”. Oyacachi A Kichwa community located to the southwest of the reserve, famous for crafts made of wood from the alder tree, hot baths, and the original settlement, known as Pueblo Viejo, made completely of stone. Mount Cayambe (5,790 masl) Located in the west of the reserve, the volcano has a refuge at 4,600 masl from which the climb to the peak begins. Mount Puntas (4,463 masl) There are 48 sharp points at the peak, some as high as 150 meters; reached from the town of El Quinche. Mount Reventador (3,485 masl) One of the most active volcanoes in the country, located in the low northeast area of the reserve; this is an area difficult to get to and rich in wildlife.
LOCATION: Imbabura, Pichincha, Napo, and Sucumbíos.
San Rafael Waterfall, where the Quijos River becomes the Coca River
T
his is the only place in the world where the equator crosses perpetual snow or, in other words, where latitude and temperature are zero degrees. The phenomenon happens on the glaciers of Cayambe, the third highest peak in Ecuador (5,790 masl). With its steep walls and wide peak, the snow-covered volcano is one of the most attractive of this enormous reserve. Mountain climbing fans will also find Saraúrco and Puntas excellent options of varying difficulty. Eighty-one lagoons dot the highlands of these mountains, most of them part of the Ñucanchi Turupamba lacustrine complex. And when it gets really cold, the hot baths of Papallacta or Oyacachi warm, heal, and relax.
54
From the Kichwa community of Oyacachi, the visitor can descend to El Chaco, in the lower area of the reserve, after two or three days of hiking the length of an enchanting river. Now in the Amazon, the splendid Quijos River offers 18 kilometers of rafting and kayaking. These impetuous waters descend from Reventador, an active and remote volcano in eastern Ecuador, accessible via a well-organized expedition. In the northeast of the reserve is the Cofán community of Sinangüe, on the banks of the Aguarico River. A little below, the current of the Quijos River forms an extraordinary fall of 130 meters, known as the San Rafael Waterfall, a stop bird watchers must not miss.
Rock climbing on Cayambe
AREA: 403,103 hectares.
ELEVATION: 600 – 5,790 masl.
CLIMATE: varies between 5 and 25ºC, according to altitude.
ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest, herbaceous highlands, lagoons, and wetlands.
Kayaking on the Quijos River
55
Ibarra
Mount Cotacachi 4 939 m
Cotacachi
Cuicocha
To Pimampiro
Imbabura Province
Atuntaqui
Cofán - Bermejo Ecological Reserve
Sigsipamba Mount Imbabura
Otavalo
4 630 m
La Rinconada Dantup
a ba
Puruhanta Lagoon Olmedo (Pesillo)
3 990 m
es R iver
Puerto Libre Cabeno Sinangüé Ag
Mount Fuya Fuya
fan
R i ver
Cusín Hill
Co
m
San Pablo Lagoon Mojanda Lagoon
Sucumbíos Province
r
San Marcos Lagoon
Tabacundo
Du
Cayambe
eR
5 790 m
El Reventador
ito Qu o T
To
Mount Reventador
Cangahua
3 485 m
lad oR iver
Mount Puntas
Pichincha Province
er
Riv
iv
O yacachi
er
Ñucan L a c u s t c h i Tu rine ru Co pa m m pl
To Qu ito
Napo Province
Oyacachi
4 463 m
Qui
ba x e
3 185 m
c
San Rafael Waterfall
Sa
Mount Saraurco
Yaruquí
Pifo
Co
San Rafael
El Quinche
4 677 m
Ilaló Hill
rio Ag o Lag
a
4 075 m
Lumbaqui
er
Pambamarca
R iver
Riv
Pi
ico
ive r
Mount Cayambe e R iver squ
ar
u
A z u e l a R i ve
4 283 m
jos
R
Sumaco - Napo Galeras National Park
N W
Encantada Lagoon
E S
El Chaco
Papallacta
Negro Hill Papallacta Lagoon
Pa p a l l a c
Cuyuja
ta Ri
Pa y
ve
Baeza ijo
s R iver
Pan de Azúcar Hill 3 500 m
r
5 755 m
Qu
o ve
Mount Antisana
in
Ri
r
10 km
am
20
A moving experience in the Amazon near the Napo River
5 km
Blanco R
LOCATION: Sucumbíos.
iv
AREA: 4,613 hectares.
er
To S
sh
uf
ELEVATION: 230 masl.
d
Capu cu y R iver
in
i
LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE
hu
Jivin
Yanacocha
o
Ri
ve
Limoncocha
r
Limoncocha
p Na
il Qu
lup
acay
o R iver
R iver N
Pompeya CICAME museum
W
Pompeya check point
E S
CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest, lagoons, and wetlands.
Every year the northern bank of the Napo moves 14 meters inland, part of a natural process that will result in Limoncocha becoming another branch of the river in 50 years.
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Limoncocha Daytime is perfect for watching aquatic birds, fish, and turtles, while at night there are a lot of caimans. Watching them is not dangerous.
Limoncocha
W
hen the sun sets on the horizon, pairs of small eyes appear in Limoncocha and stealthily inspect the surface. These are black and spectacled caimans, lords and masters of the enormous mirrors of black water that gives its name to the reserve. With an area measuring two and a half square kilometers, Limoncocha is part of a wetland on the northern bank of the formidable Napo River which yearly overflows, flooding the area. Until the middle of the last century, this was a remote place, known only to hunters and fishermen in the area; now it is surrounded by oil wells, but thanks to the fact that it has been declared a biological reserve, its exuberant landscape has been preserved almost intact. From the lagoon, on any morning, visitors will hear the roars of howler monkeys marking their territory kilometers away, or see enormous anacon-
58
das five meters long wrapped around the trees of the Yanacocha, another spectacular lagoon in the reserve. It is possible to sail the waters of Limoncocha in a piragua, accompanied by the finest guides of the region: members of Kichwa communities that existed in the reserve before it was declared a protected area. It is also safe to swim, though it is always recommended that visitors do so far from shore. Those who prefer land can walk along an ethnobotanical trail, El Caimán, to the southeast of the lagoon: two kilometers inside a secondary forest where trees and bushes display signs with information, introducing themselves courteously to visitors. Although tourism is just beginning, the indigenous communities of Limoncocha would like to receive more visitors for whom they have lodging and guide services.
Yanacocha Or black lagoon, located in a swampy area covered with thick vegetation. It is believed that the caimans lay their eggs here and that many anacondas live in the swamp. Capucuy River Ideal for watching rare species of parrots and macaws as there has been little human impact. El Caimán Trail This is a path through secondary forest, with information on native uses of plants. Banks of the Napo River There are many islands and beaches that are perfect for recreation and enjoyment of nature. CICAME Archaeological Museum Located in Pompeya, the museum offers an important collection of pieces from different indigenous cultures.
59
Nocturnal shot of a dwarf caiman
21
Rivers surrounded by all the mysteries of the Amazon forest
YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK W
ithout a doubt, the word more best defines the Yasuní: in barely a hectare of this park there are more plant species than in all of North America; a tree in the Yasuní is home to more types of ants than exist in all of England. More than 50% of the mammals of Ecuador are found here, and the park contains the widest range of reptiles and amphibians in South America… All this and much more make the Yasuní the site of the greatest biodiversity on the planet. Sailing along the winding white water rivers or the black tea lagoons of the forest, accompanied by the music of oropendolas, parrots, toucans, and other birds, all the visitor needs is a pair of binoculars to get close to the wealth of fauna: from tiny hummingbirds to enormous harpy eagles, slow tortoises, and swift pink dolphins, colorful insects, tiny poisonous frogs, and huge anacondas. This exuberance of life has contributed to the park being designated a World Biosphere Reserve. This corner of the Amazon also contains a fabulous cultural heritage: Kichwa and Waorani communities offer experiences in nature tourism, such as excursions along rivers, the practice of local traditions, and
wildlife watching. While in the north of the park there are several ecological lodges, there are more lodging choices outside the park, along the Napo River. In the Yasuní, the uncontacted Tagaeri, Taromenane, and Oñamenane peoples have been cornered by the western world in the so-called “untouchable zone,” an area legally preserved in an attempt to contribute to their survival. In spite of the various protected designations, oil extraction, the felling of cedar, and wildlife ilegal trade represent serious threats to the park and its people. Ecological tourism seems to be an alternative to these high-impact activities. LOCATION: Orellana and Pastaza. AREA: 982,000 hectares.
ELEVATION: 300 – 600 masl.
CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest, wetlands, and lagoons.
Observation platform in the forest canopy
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
The Yasuní-ITT Initiative proposes giving up oil production in the park in exchange for contributions from the international community, in order to assure conservation of the biodiversity and to avoid the carbon emissions that would be produced if that oil were burned. For more information: www.yasuni-itt.gov.ec
River excursions Navigate the Tiputini, Curaray, Shiripuno, and Cononaco rivers aboard long canoes piloted by Kichwa or Waorani guides, the best way to discover the treasures of the Yasuní. Añangucocha From the community of Añangu, in the northwest section of the park, a one-hour walk along a trail takes visitors to a lagoon known for its attractive surroundings. The outing can be continued by canoe. Jatuncocha At this spot in the northeast of the park, near the Yasuní River, there is an excellent site for watching pink dolphins. Ecological lodges At some sites there are ecological hotels owned by communities or managed by private parties along with communities. These are found in the areas of Añangu, Shiripuno, Bataburo, Gareno, Sani Isla, and Yarina.
60
San José de Curaray This is a small community near the park’s southern border where residents make craft items for sale outside the Yasuní. Tiputini River lagoon
61
Limoncocha Biological Reserve Cuyabeno Fauna Production Reserve
Sucumbíos Province
Limoncocha Napo R iver
To Lago Agrio
Añangu Garzacocha
Pañacocha
Pompeya
Coca
Garzacocha
Ag
To Quito
Tiputini Biodiversity Station
u
Añangucocha
El Edén Yuturi
Napo
Bloque 31 Road
Tip u t i n i R iver
Yasuní Scientific Station
iv Ti v a c u n o R
Auca Road
Piuricocha
ar
Riv
ico
R ive
Imuya Lagoon
r
Zancudococha
er
Tiputini
er
Nuevo Rocafuerte
Orellana Province ripuno Riv Shi e
Ya s u
Jatuncocha
ní
Ri
r
ve
r s Na
Yasuní Intangible Zone
Pastaza Province
Tig
(Area where conservation is absolute)
üino R iver
Cu rara E
S
10 km
yR
nonaco Riv
iv
er
W
o R i ve r
Perú Co
N
hiñ
Pavacachi
Lorocachi
er
22
Home to three white giants and impenetrable cloud forests
SANGAY NATIONAL PARK
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Collanes Valley Here visitors will have the most spectacular view of El Altar, considered the most beautiful of Ecuador’s volcanoes and the most difficult to climb. This is also a lovely place to camp. El Altar lagoons From Cubijies, on the Riobamba-Baños highway, travelers come to the Verde, Azul, Estrellada, Mandur, and Quindecocha lagoons, located south of Altar. El Placer hot baths Along the long highlands trail that passes the Negra Lagoon are the hot baths of El Placer, a traditional recreation spot for local residents.
LOCATION: Cañar, Tungurahua, Chimborazo, and Morona Santiago. AREA: 517,765 hectares.
ELEVATION: 1,000 – 5,230 masl.
CLIMATE: varies according to altitude, between 6 and 24ºC.
ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest, herbaceous highlands, dry highlands, lagoons, and wetlands.
Ozogoche and Atillo lagoons The Riobamba-Azogues road provides access to two lacustrine systems where, periodically, numerous birds fall into the water and, for no apparent reason, die. Sardinayacu Lagoon Unique in the country for being surrounded by primary premontane forest, with varied, virtually untouched flora and fauna. Guamote-Macas road Cuts through the park from west to east, passing through beautiful landscapes with vegetation that changes on the way down to the Amazon. It is an access road to many subtropical attractions, such as the Cugucha River waterfall, a lovely natural lookout.
Collanes Valley with El Altar in the background
R
ivers, lagoons, waterfalls, tropical and cloud forests, Andean valleys, highlands, snow-covered peaks… Almost half of Ecuador’s ecosystems are found in this immense protected area, declared part of the Natural Heritage of Humankind. This is a destination for adventurers since any degree of access implies long hikes. However, the landscapes, dominated by three icy, majestic giants, make it worth the effort. Sangay, in the center of the park, is one of the least accessible peaks in the country. From beneath the clouds in which it is usually shrouded there come occasional roars and frequent columns of smoke and ash that remind visitors that the volcano is in a permanent state of activity. Thus, climbers must take special care. To the north rises El Altar, described by many as the most beautiful peak in the country. This view is ratified by the volcano’s Kichwa name, Kapak Urku,
64
which means “magnificent peak.” The crater of the extinct volcano collapsed, creating a number of peaks that today form a horseshoe, with the opening toward the long Collanes Valley. The third snow-covered peak, Tungurahua, rises in the far northwest of the park. This cone began its current eruptive process ten years ago. At night the volcano puts on an impressive show, continually spitting incandescent stones from its crater. While the snow-covered peaks and their surroundings are the major attraction of this area, as the traveler goes east, the terrain becomes steeper and more broken, and a dense cloud forest covers the earth, replete with orchids and bromeliads, and dotted with waterfalls and torrential rivers. In addition, to the south the Inca trail, or Kapakñan, runs through the park in the direction of the renowned temple of Ingapirca, where there are a number of community tourism operations. Mount Sangay, a volcano flanked by Chimborazo (left) and El Altar (right)
It is said that the broken appearance of Altar is due to the rage of taita (father) Chimborazo who, centuries ago, discovered the volcano making love to mama Tungurahua, his millennial and impetuous partner.
Cañar
Achupallas
Cebadas
Licto
ua
ot
Ma
e-
Ma
r
10 km
Ne
gr
Pa u
te
le
bril
S
Vo
5 230 m
lcá
nR
Méndez
Abanico Ri
ve
9 de Octubre
r
v
Sucúa
aR
Mera
Pa l o
ra R iver
Palora
Puyo
Pastaza Province
Up
Sardinayacu Lagoon
Morona Santiago Province
Ri
taz
Macas
ive r
l a s R ive
Llushín
Pa s
Río Negro
Mount Sangay
Zuña
ve ver o Ri
Guarumales
Paute Hydroelectric Dam
Amaluza
z a r R i ve
cas
El Placer
Negra Lagoon
del Altar Lagoons
5 320 m
Mount Altar
Ozogoche Lagoons
Cubilín Lagoon
Atillo Lagoons
m
Lactapamba de Alao
Chambo
Riobamba
R o a d Purshi
Candelaria Cubijíes
Penipe
5 016 m
Mount Tungurahua
Baños
Ri
Azogues
Cañar Province
Ingapirca
El Tambo
Culebrillas Lagoon
Chunchi
Alausí
Palmira
Guamote
Chimborazo Province
Pi l i l a g R i ve r
6 310 m
Mount Chimborazo
Chimborazo Fauna Production Reserve
5 020 m
Río Verde
r
P
H i g hw ay r
úlp ito R iver
Mount Carihuairazo
o To Am
Tungurahua Province
C
R iver bo ha m
bat
e Cebadas R iv
mora
G
R ive
W
To Z a
icana
S
N E
Santa Rosa
To P uyo
Pa
er nam
Cu
an
y ga
R iver
r
er o an
o Up a n R iver
i
r ve
r
Starfish
THE OTHER PANE AREAS
I
n addition to the twenty-one areas summarized in the previous section, the PANE offers other reserves distributed throughout the country. Some of them were established during the past decade and are waiting to display their charms to visitors. Below, we provide information on these areas. Ceibo, or kapok, tree in a dry forest
Dusk over the Pacific Fungi in the tropical forest
68
Rafting on eastern rivers
69
27
23
SANTA ELENA PENINSULA MARINE FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE
MACHE-CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE An extensive and very diverse forest reserve, refuge of the last remnants of the Coast’s rainforests and semi-deciduous forests.
Near Salinas, a popular beach, an invaluable treasure is hidden: coral forests, whales, sea lions, colorful fish, and huge colonies of aquatic birds.
LOCATION: Esmeraldas and Manabí. AREA: 119,172 hectares. ELEVATION: 200 – 800 masl. CLIMATE: warm and humid, between 18 and 36ºC.
LOCATION: Santa Elena. AREA: Land: 177 hectares. Marine: 47,278 hectares. ELEVATION: sea level. CLIMATE: dry and warm, 30ºC, on average.
ECOSYSTEMS: - dry forest - tropical rain forest - cloud forest - wetlands and lagoon
ECOSYSTEMS: - dry forest - wetlands - sandy and rocky beaches and cliffs - sand banks
ACTIVITIES: hiking along self-guided trails, bird watching, trekking, nature watching, spelunking.
24 ISLA SANTA CLARA WILDLIFE REFUGE
Snorkeling on the Ecuadorian coast
25
26
This tiny island off the coast from Machala is home to what may be the largest colony of marine birds in Ecuador: 14,000 frigate birds, 4,000 brown pelicans, and 5,000 blue-footed boobies.
MUISNE RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE
EL SALADO MANGROVES FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE
Along the green Muisne River, lovely beaches alternate with remnants of mangroves preserved and used by AfroEsmeraldan communities.
The mangrove and the endangered caiman of the Coast are two emblematic species of this reserve, located just a few kilometers from the city of Guayaquil.
LOCATION: El Oro. AREA: five hectares and two nautical miles. ELEVATION: 0 – 70 masl. CLIMATE: warm tropical.
LOCATION: Esmeraldas. AREA: 3,173 hectares. ELEVATION: sea level. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.
LOCATION: Guayas. AREA: 5,217 hectares. ELEVATION: 0 – 200 masl. CLIMATE: hot and humid, 26ºC, on average.
ECOSYSTEMS: - dry forest - rocky coast with cliffs - sea floors
ECOSYSTEMS: - mangrove - dry shrubland
ECOSYSTEMS: - mangrove - dry forest
ACTIVITIES: bird watching, fishing, trails for walking, kayaking, wildlife watching.
ACTIVITIES: kayaking, waterskiing, canoeing and boating, wildlife watching.
ACTIVITIES: bird watching, whale watching 70
ACTIVITIES: whale watching, bird watching, diving, snorkeling, fishing, sunbathing, kayaking, sailing.
28 EL MORRO MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE In this mangrove reserve live thousands of frigatebirds, boobies, and pelicans on the Isla de los Pájaros, and in the surrounding area there is a resident school of friendly dolphins. LOCATION: Guayas. AREA: 10,130 hectares. ELEVATION: sea level. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: - mangrove ACTIVITIES: wildlife watching, bird watching, kayaking, fishing.
71
29
32
PACOCHE MARINE-COASTAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
ARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE One of the most extensive areas of dry scrub forest in the country, with a wide variety of birds. Administered by Ecuador’s army.
Beautiful bodies of water are part of this area, home to different monkey and bird species. Humpbacked whales visit the coast while marine tortoises nest on the beaches.
LOCATION: El Oro. AREA: 17,083 hectares. ELEVATION: 0 – 300 masl. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 26ºC, on average.
LOCATION: Manabí. AREA: Land: 5,045 hectares. Marine: 8,500 hectares. ELEVATION: 0 – 350 masl. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: - dry forest - cloud forest - rocky reefs - sandy and rocky beaches - sea floors ACTIVITIES: trails, bird watching, wildlife watching, snorkeling, diving, bicycling, whale watching, fishing, kayaking.
30 ESMERALDAS RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE Mangroves vital for marine diversity and the fishing communities whose livelihoods depend on their existence. LOCATION: Esmeraldas. AREA: 242 hectares. ELEVATION: sea level. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: - mangrove ACTIVITIES: bird watching, wildlife watching, fishing, canoeing. 72
ECOSYSTEMS: - mangrove - dry tropical forest ACTIVITIES: walks on trails, bicycling, bird watching.
33 Diving in the Pacific
31 PARQUE LAGO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA This reserve is located around the Chongón River reservoir, ideal for sailing, fishing, and recreation on its spacious green grounds. Very close to Guayaquil. LOCATION: Guayas. AREA: 2,283 hectares. ELEVATION: 0 – 300 masl. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.
ISLA CORAZÓN AND FRAGATAS WILDLIFE REFUGE Populated by mangroves, these islands in the broad Chone River estuary are home to an enormous colony of frigatebirds and other marine birds. LOCATION: Manabí. AREA: 700 hectares. ELEVATION: sea level. CLIMATE: dry tropical, 25 – 28ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: mangrove. ACTIVITIES: walks on self-guided trails, bird watching.
ECOSYSTEMS: - dry forest - wetland - reservoir ACTIVITIES: kayaking, fishing, bird watching, kite flying, sailing, family recreation, bicycling.
La Rinconada, Manabí
34 CAYAPAS-MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Includes the estuary system of San Lorenzo, the largest, best-conserved in the South Pacific, and the tallest mangroves in the world, located in Majagual. LOCATION: Esmeraldas. AREA: 51,300 hectares. ELEVATION: 0 – 35 masl. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 24ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: - mangrove - dry forest - tropical rain forest - estuaries, swamps, and lagoons
Crabs on the beach
ACTIVITIES: wildlife watching, fishing, canoeing, bird watching, walks on self-guided trails 73
35 LA CHIQUITA WILDLIFE REFUGE A tropical rain forest reserve in serious danger of disappearing due to increasing deforestation for agriculture and timber. LOCATION: Esmeraldas. AREA: 809 hectares. ELEVATION: 19 – 120 masl. CLIMATE: warm and humid, 26ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest. ACTIVITIES: bird watching.
40 EL QUIMI BIOLOGICAL RESERVE Here unique ecosystems are protected, similar to the tepuis (flat-topped mountains) in northeastern South America. The intricate forests of the Cóndor range, land of the Shuar nationality, are rich in endemic species. LOCATION: Morona Santiago. AREA: 9,071 hectares. ELEVATION: 1,700 – 2,480 masl. CLIMATE: between 18 and 24ºC. Bird watching in the Amazon
39 EL ZARZA WILDLIFE REFUGE A small protected area in the impressive, extremely diverse Cóndor range, ancestral land of the Shuar, threatened by large-scale mining. LOCATION: Morona Santiago. AREA: 3,643 hectares. ELEVATION: 1,400 – 1,680 masl. CLIMATE: 22ºC, on average. ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest. ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching.
ECOSYSTEMS: - cloud forest - Andean forest ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching, spelunking.
41 EL CÓNDOR BINATIONAL PARK The Cordillera del Cóndor is recognized as one of the most beautiful areas in the country, with mysterious cloud forests that cover rolling limestone formations. LOCATION: Morona Santiago. AREA: 2,440 hectares. ELEVATION: 200 – 2,920 masl. CLIMATE: varies with altitude, between 13 and 22ºC. ECOSYSTEMS: - tropical rain forest - cloud forest - Andean forest
Ocelot
74
ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching, spelunking, wildlife watching.
42
43
COFÁN-BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
SUMACO-NAPO GALERAS NATIONAL PARK
Made up of very diverse rain forests, from low tropical forest to Andean forests, this is part of the ancestral territory of the Cofán nationality.
One of the most biodiverse and least explored protected areas in Ecuador; dense vegetation and steep mountainsides that descend to the Amazon make access difficult.
LOCATION: Sucumbíos. AREA: 55,451 hectares. ELEVATION: 400 – 2,275 masl. CLIMATE: varies with altitude.
LOCATION: Napo and Orellana. AREA: 205,249 hectares. ELEVATION: 500 – 3,732 masl. CLIMATE: varies with altitude.
ECOSYSTEMS: - tropical rain forest - cloud forest - Andean forest - shrubby highlands
ECOSYSTEMS: - tropical rain forest - cloud forest - Andean forest - herbaceous highlands
ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching, trekking, spelunking, wildlife watching, kayaking, sports fishing.
ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching, mountain climbing, trekking, wildlife watching, rafting, spelunking.
Note: At the time this guide went to press, four new protected areas were created: 36 the Isla Santay and Isla del Gallo National Recreation Area (2,214 hectares) in Guayas, 37 los Samanes National Recreation Area (380 hectares) in Guayas, 38 the Pambilar Wildlife Reserve (3,123 hectares) in Esmeraldas, and 44 the Yacuri National Park (43,090 hectares) in Loja and Zamora Chinchipe 75
Diversity of ecosystems in protected areas
T
he variety of ecosystems in Ecuador is mind-boggling. Fortunately, the majority of these are protected within the PANE, though some of them, such as the dry forests and the coral reefs, still receive very little attention. In brief, below are some of the characteristics of each ecosystem:
Marine ecosystems The diversity of marine ecosystems is extensive: from sandy and rocky beaches and those with cliffs, to rocky and coral reefs and sandy sea bottoms. There is a wide variety of fish, such as clown and butterfly fish, ballestas, trumpet fish, morays, parrot fish, gallinetas, together with turtles and hundreds of invertebrates that live in the reefs, while sharks, sting rays, eels, and flounder stand out on the sandy bottoms.
Dry forest On the central and southern Coast there are dry forests. The twisted forms change from green when it rains to brown during the summer. Kapoks, pigios, lignum vitae, guatos, guazmos, and pechiches are characteristic trees, while moyuyos, carobs, and various cacti are prevalent in bushy areas. There is a high degree of endemism among birds, and fauna also includes howler monkeys, squirrels, ocelots, Sechura foxes, big-mouthed frog, and various lizards
76
What to take to the dry forest and the beach • binoculars • camera • canteen with water • camping equipment • flashlight • mosquito net • snorkeling or diving equipment
• sunscreen • insect repellant • light clothing • hat and sunglasses • swimsuit • walking/hiking shoes
Mangroves and estuaries Kissing the sea we come to the thick mangroves whose five different species grow on salty soils. The mangroves provide a refuge and a reproduction site for hundreds of fish and marine invertebrates. Currently, the most extensive mangroves are found in the Gulf of Guayaquil, the estuaries of the Muisne and Chone Rivers and the San Lorenzo estuary. The variety and number of marine and shore bird are surprising.
What to take to mangroves and estuaries • binoculars • rubber boots • camera • long-sleeved shirt • canteen with water • bags with hermetic seals
• raincoat or poncho • jeans or slacks • sunscreen • insect repellant • light clothing • hat and sunglasses
Tropical rain forest Located in the lowlands of the Coast and in Amazon provinces. The forest can reach 30 meters in height, with even taller trees towering over their companions, and with different strata of vegetal growth, from the canopy of the forest to the floor. In the Amazon, there are two types of forest, tierra firme and flooded around rivers. Harpy eagles, toucans, macaws, guans, and hundreds of other birds; large mammals, such as the jaguar, the tapir, the spider monkey, the giant armadillo, and enormous trees such as the chanul, tropical cedar, ceibo, sande, and copal, are the most characteristic species.
What to take to the tropical rain forest • binoculars • rubber boots • camera
• mosquito net • jeans or slacks • sunscreen
• long-sleeved shirt • canteen with water • bags with hermetic seals • raincoat or poncho • flashlight
• repellant • light clothing • hat and sunglasses • swimsuit • yellow fever vaccination
Cloud forest On the flanks of the Andes cloud forests are found. The height of the forest is lower that of the Amazon and trees have a large number of plants growing on their branches. These plants, called epiphytes, include bromeliads, orchids, hundreds of mosses, and ferns. Though the biodiversity is below that of the plains, the variety of hummingbirds and orchids stands out, as do the many endemic amphibians and the enigmatic spectacled bear, nocturnal monkey, ocelot, and pacarana.
What to take to the cloud forest • binoculars • rubber boots • camera • canteen with water • camping equipment
• bags with hermetic seals • raincoat or poncho • flashlight • warm clothing • hat
Andean forest Above the cloud forest is the Andean forest, shorter and with a greater density of mosses and epiphytes growing on twisted tree branches and the ground. The forests border on the highlands. The best known inhabitants of these forests are tanagers, a dozen hummingbird species, the Andean guan, and Andean toucans; together with weasels, skunks, porcupines, marsupial frogs, harlequin frogs, and burrowing lizards. Among plants, the pumamaqui (`puma´s hand´ in Kichwa), Andean cherry, myrtle, wax laurel, quishuar (a sacred tree), and queñoa, or paper tree, stand out.
rock lizards, and more than a hundred bird species live in these ecosystems which, in addition, represent the largest fresh water storage area in the country.
What to take to the Andean forest and the highlands • binoculars • warm sleeping bag • rubber boots or hiking boots • camera • canteen with water • waterproof jacket • food
• camping equipment • bags with hermetic seals • hat and gloves • flashlight • sunscreen • very warm clothing • hat and sunglasses
Rivers, lagoons, and wetlands All of Ecuador is full of aquatic ecosystems: lagoons, lakes, wetlands, swamps, rivers, streams. Many, many lagoons are in the highlands, from which torrential rivers descend the Andean slopes to feed the larger, slower rivers of the lowlands. In the Amazon, the rivers form lagoons at their old bends. On the Coast, near the ocean, there are a number of lagoons and bogs with a high diversity of fish and aquatic birds. The rivers with the greatest volume in the country are found in the Amazon, and in Guayas and Esmeraldas.
Galapagos The small islands and islets are arid, with a few spiny plants, but the larger and higher islands have mangroves on their coasts and rain forests in the high areas. Here, the forests with Scalesia and Miconia, species endemic to the Galapagos, stand out. On the highest peaks are the pampas, where ferns and grasses grow. The coral reefs are richer than those of Ecuador’s continental seas, and the sand banks are extensive. The entire archipelago is characterized by fauna and flora unique in the world.
Highlands Between the Andean forest and the rocky and snowcovered peaks are the highlands. Not all highlands are the same. There are desert highlands; wetter highlands characterized by a diversity of grasses; cushion plant highlands, adapted to soils saturated with water; shrub highlands; and highlands on which the frailejón flourishes. White-tailed deer, wild mice, grassland cats, highland foxes, frogs, harlequin toads,
What to take to the Galapagos • binoculars • camera • canteen with water • snorkeling or diving equipment • bags with hermetic seals • raincoat or poncho
• sunscreen • insect repellant • light clothing • hat and sunglasses • swimsuit • walking or hiking shoes
77
How to get there There are flights from Guayaquil and Quito daily (depending on the airline and the island of arrival: Baltra or San Cristóbal). The flight from Quito is 90 minutes long, from Guayaquil, 40 minutes.
From the city of Esmeraldas, by way of The Route of the Spondylus , a few kilometers beyond Tonchigüe the visitor takes a secondary road toward the west. This crosses Galera and ends in San Francisco, going through the reserve.
Around 50 kilometers south of Manta and 60 kilometers southwest of Portoviejo. In the north, access is on the Jipijapa – Puerto Cayo road; in the south, on the Libertad – Puerto Cayo road. There are buses from Quito (10 hours) and Guayaquil (4 hours) to Puerto López.
Principle Access to the reserve is at kilometer 49 of the Guayaquil – Machala highway. There are two ways to get to that point: the Guayaquil – Boliche or the Durán – Tambo expressway. It is also possible to enter by boat from Guayaquil or Posorja.
35 kilometers southwest of Tulcán. There is access to four sectors of the reserve: via El Ángel – La Libertad – Morán, crossing the entire reserve; via San Isidro – Palo Blanco, on the southwest side; via Tulcán – Tufiño – Maldonado, to the north; and via the old El Ángel - Tulcán highway, to the El Voladero sector. Divided between Esmeraldas and Imbabura. The high part is reached via the Panamerican Highway, on the E50 route, by way of Cuicocha. The lower part is reached from Borbón, sailing along the San Miguel and Cayapas Rivers. River transport should be arranged in advance.
Located 40 kilometers north of Quito. There are two entrances. The one most commonly used is near the Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World), to which interparroquial buses arrive. The other is a little before Calacalí, by way of the sector known as Tiligón, through which runs a dirt road that leads to Moraspungo.
Located 45 kilometers south of Quito along the Panamerican Highway. The major entry point is on the Sangolquí – Amaguaña – Tambillo stretch. In the area where the Amaguaña church is located, go east and continue on for six kilometers along a cobblestone road.
(and routes going through the area) Galapagos National Park
Galera-San Francisco Marine Reserve
Machalilla National Park
Manglares-Churute Ecological Reserve
El Ángel Ecological Reserve
Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve
Pululahua Geobotanical Reserve
Pasochoa Wildlife Reserve
Protected area
Useful information
023 317-547 / 022 272 863
6h00 - 18h00
Ecuadorians: US$2.00; lodging: US$4.00; camping: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00; lodging: US$6.00; camping: US$5.00
Ronald Navarrete 091 410 238, Pululahua
Open 24 hours a day
Ecuadorians: US$1.00 Foreigners: US$5.00
Marcelo Pantoja (high area) 062 915 986, Cotacachi Fernando Morcillo (low area) 062 723 204 / 062 786 615, Borbón
08h00 – 17h00 (Cuicocha entry) There is no schedule for the low area.
Ecuadorians: US$0.50, high area; US$2.00, low area Foreigners: US$1.00, high area; US$5.00 low area
Ecuadorian: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00 Attention 24 hours, night access restricted. Carlos Molina 062 977 597 / 147, El Ángel
Bruno Yánez 042 306 645, Guayaquil
06h00 - 16h00
Ecuadorians: US$2.00; cabins US$3.00 Foreigners: US$10.00; cabins US$5.00. Canoe for 12 persons: US$15.00/hour
Jorge Macías 052 300 170, Puerto López
Information Center is in Puerto López 08h00 – 16h00 Monday to Friday; 08h00 – 14h00 Saturday and Sunday Los Frailes beach, 08h30 – 15h00 entry. Agua Blanca community, 08h00 – 16h30 entry. Isla de la Plata, 08h30 – 11h00, leaving from Puerto López.
Ecuadorians US$2.00; Isla de la Plata US$3.50; combined US$5.00. Foreigners US$12.00; Isla de la Plata US$15.00; combined US$20.00.
Esmeraldas Provincial Office 062 721 781
No fee established.
Edgar Muñoz, director: emunoz@spng.org.ec Edwin Naula, tourist administration: enaula@spng.org.ec 052 526 189
06h00 - 18h30 Interpretation centers: 08h00 – 17h00
Ecuadorians US$10.00 Foreigners US$100.00
Fees*, schedules and contacts
Ecuadorians: US$1.00 Foreigners: US$5.00
Located 50 kilometers southeast of Quito. Among access roads are: Quito – Pintag – Micacocha, to the highlands of Antisana (permission from the owner of the hacienda on the route must be obtained); Cosanga – Las Caucheras, until the Cosanga River. At the shrine of the Virgin of Guacamayos, 30 minutes from Baeza and an hour from Tena, there is a control and access trails. In the Tambo Valley, in Papallacta, trails begin that climb to the Dominguina Lagoon and Antisana, Sincholagua, and Cotopaxi. Along the Pintag – San Alfonso – Muertepungo, there is access to the Muertepungo Lagoon. On weekends, there is access by train, leaving the Chimbacalle Station (08h00), in the south of Quito. Access is also via the Panamerican, where there is a dirt road running east at kilometer 60 from Quito.
Antisana Ecological Reserve
El Boliche National Recreation Area
Located 30 kilometers north of Latacunga and 75 kilometers south of Quito. On the Panamerican, in Santa Rita, follow the road east for 5 kilometers until the control point at Caspi. It is possible to take a bus to Lasso and there hire a pickup truck. In the north, entry is through Machachi in El Pedregal sector.
There are two major access points. Entry to the Quilotoa sector is on the Latacunga – La Maná road. From Pujilí, head for Zumbahua where there is a road to the crater. To get to Ilinizas, from the Panamerican take a detour west for six kilometers to the south of Machachi, then seven kilometers until Chaupi. There is also an office for the reserve in Sigchos.
There are a number of access points along secondary roads. One is the old Salcedo – Tena highway, toward the Anteojos Lagoons. Another is the Píllaro – Poaló – Pisayambo road, passing through the control point at Zunfopamba. The third class Patate – Poatú road leads to the Púlpito mountain. The traveler can also walk three hours from El Triunfo. From the east, access is by way of the Tena – La Serena road, following the Jatunyacu River for three kilometers. The Panamerican Highway from Ambato to Riobamba runs parallel to the reserve. From here, take the scenic Sigsipamba – Cuatro Esquinas – Ruta de los Hieleros. Access is also via the Riobamba – Guaranda road, by way of Pulinguí and Tambohuasca. On the west, the Ambato – Guaranda road crosses the reserve; the entrance point is the Cruz del Arenal.
Located 29 kilometers from Cuenca on the Molleturo and Naranjal road. The bus to Guayaquil that goes through Molleturo takes an hour to get to the visitors’ center on Toreadora Lagoon. The southern access, on the Cuenca – Angas road, by way of Soldados, is a more difficult route.
This is the southernmost of the PANE areas. From the west, access is via the Loja – Malacatos road to Cajanuma, from which it is eight kilometers to the Administrative Center. From there, a 15 kilometer walk leads to the Compadre Lagoons. More to the south there is an access to the Toledo peak, from Yangana. The Loja – Zamora route crosses the northern section of the park, with tourist development in San Francisco administered by the Arco Iris Foundation. The lower part is reached from Zamora, via the Romerillos and Bombuscaro roads. Another access point is from Vilcabamba going toward El Patio, at 17 kilometers. From Valladolid, the El Porvenir, Loyola, Numbala, and Quebrada Honda sectors can be visited.
Cotopaxi National Park
Ilinizas Ecological Reserve
Llanganates National Park
Chimborazo Fauna Production Reserve
Cajas National Park
Podocarpus National Park
Santos Calderón 072 571 534, Loja
Attention 24 hours.
Ecuadorians: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00
Oswaldo Encalada 072 826 501 / 072 370 127, Cuenca
08h00 - 16h00
Ecuadorians: US$1.50 Foreigners: US$10.00
Alonso Burgos 032 610 029, Riobamba
08h00 - 17h00
Ecuadorians: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00
Orley Ochoa 032 521 555 / 095 531 810, Ambato
08h00 – 18h00, Pisayambo and Anteojos access points
Ecuadorians: US$1.00 Foreigners: US$5.00
Marco Jácome 032 812 768, Latacunga
8h00 - 17h00
Ecuadorians: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00
Rodrigo Toapanta 032 812 768, Latacunga
08h00 - 16h00, entrance
Ecuadorians: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00 Includes entrance fee for El Boliche National Recreation Area
08h00 - 17h00 Luis Cevallos 032 812 768, Latacunga
Ecuadorians: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00 Includes entrance fee for the Cotopaxi National Park
Patricio Taco 062 320 605, Baeza
There is no schedule. The control at the hacienda access to Antisana closes, for entry and exit, at 18h00.
Fees*, schedules and contacts
(and routes going through the area)
How to get there
Protected area
Byron Amaya 093 457 728, Limoncocha
Ecuadorians: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00 Camping: US$3.00 Añangucocha: US$5.00
On the eastern flanks of the southern Andes. There are two access points on the Quito – Papallacta – Baeza road; the first is in the sector known as La Virgen, in the southwest of the reserve; the other is via Papallacta – Oyacachi. To use that road, permission of the Municipal Potable Water Office of Quito is required. Leaving the Cayambe – Oyacachi road and following the road to Olmedo, the visitor gets to the San Marcos Lagoon. Other entry points via El Reventador or Lumbaqui require experienced guides. Access to the northeast sector is available by way of the Cofán community of Sinangüe. Located on the banks of the Napo River, 50 kilometers downriver from Coca. Access is possible via a three-hour trip along the Napo River to Pompeya, where there is a trail that goes to Limoncocha. Access is also via the Shushufindi – Pompeya road. This is the heart of the Ecuadorian Amazon. Daily buses leave Quito for Coca. From there, visitors travel downriver along the Napo, where it is possible to take a tributary, such as the Tiputini or the Yasuní. Access is also through Añangu toward Añangucocha. By land, from the Pompeya control point, access is via oil roads opened in the park. These roads lead to two scientific stations, as well as to various Waorani communities. Permission from the oil company is required. From Coca, take the Auca Road, entering by way of the Shiripuno, Tigüino, or Tiputini Rivers. To get to the Curaray River, take a small plane in Puyo to Lorocachi, Pavacachi, or San José.
Located on the eastern flanks of the Andes, between the Pastaza and Paute rivers. The Guamote – Macas road crosses the park from east to west, going through Atillo and Ozogoche. To the southwest, access is through El Tambo and Ingapirca, hiking the Kapakñán. There are also secondary roads that provide access at Alao and La Candelaria, on the way to El Altar and Sangay. On the flanks of Tungurahua, access is via Baños. To go to Sardinayacu, take the Macas - Puyo road to Santa Rosa and, from there, to Guapú and Playa San Luis. A four hour walk takes you to the lagoons.
Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve
Limoncocha Biological Reserve
Yasuní National Park
Sangay National Park
THE ROUTE OF THE VOLCANOES. This spectacular avenue goes through the Andes, and includes more than 70 volcanoes from Carchi to Loja. Some of these, the highest, have snow-covered peaks throughout the year and all represent incomparable attractions for hikers and mountain climbers.
THE MIDDLE OF THE WORLD TRAIN ROUTE. The legendary railway, the signature project of Eloy Alfaro, was, during its better years, the most important axis of communication and commerce in the country. Now it travels through landscapes and population centers along four major routes: Tambo-Coyoctor, IbarraSalinas, Quito-Latacunga, and Riobamba-AlausíSibambe, which includes the most spectacular stretch: la Nariz del Diablo (the Devil’s Nose).
The various protected areas included in the PANE are part of a number of tourism routes, a strategy of the Ministry of Tourism to encourage Ecuadorian and foreign visitors to take the entire route. They include:
Tourism routes
THE ROUTE OF THE LIBERATOR. Goes through the most important cities and points of interests on Simón Bolívar’s travels through the country before and during the independence struggle, exploring the facts of Bolívar’s personality in the context of the landscapes he frequented.
YAKU ÑAMBY or THE WATER ROUTE. This route includes the varied and surprising natural and cultural charms of Amazonian Ecuador. It is named thus because of the ecological importance of water and its intimate relation with indigenous nationalities of the largest watershed with the greatest quantity of water in the world. In a large part of the Amazon, the rivers remain the most important means of sustenance and transport.
THE ROUTE OF THE SPONDYLUS. This scenic itinerary, a section of which was formerly known as the Sun Route, goes through all of Ecuador’s beaches and neighboring population centers, from the north of Esmeraldas to the south of the country. The route takes its name from the Spondylus, a shell fish used as currency by the ancient inhabitants of the Ecuadorian coast.
*In most reserves, there are discounts for children, older adults, and persons with handicaps. In some, there is a special group rate.
Miguel Acuña (upper area) 032 610 029, Riobamba Víctor León (lower area) 072 702 368, Macas
Monday to Friday, 08h00 – 17h00
Interpretation Center in Macas
Ecuadorians: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00
Ubelden Farías 062 881 850, Coca
Luis Martínez (high area) 022 110 370, Cayambe Jacinto Villareal (low area) 062 818 183, Lago Agrio
Monday to Friday, 07h00 - 18h00
Ecuadorian: US$2.00 Foreigners: US$10.00
Luis Borbor 062 360 047, Tarapoa
08h00 - 17h00
Ecuadorians: US$5.00 Foreigners: US$20.00
Fees*, schedules and contacts
On the northern flank of the low basin of the Aguarico River. From Quito, daily buses make the trip to Lago Agrio in seven to ten hours. From there, another bus to El Carmen port arrives in three hours at the Cuyabeno bridge, from which a canoe can be taken along the Cuyabeno River. Access is also via the Aguarico River, with a longer boat ride.
How to get there
Cuyabeno Fauna Production Reserve
(and routes going through the area)
Protected area
Tips for
responsible tourism
I
n the midst of the severe environmental crisis the planet is experiencing, tourism is one alternative for creating a sustainable economy and a more harmonious world for all living beings. However, many tourist practices also cause serious environmental impacts. Below, we offer practical recommendations so that your next trip will have less impact on the place visited:
Do research on the environment, the traditions, and the culture of the sites you plan to visit. Choose operators and hotels that practice equity: between men and women; communities and private property owners; employees and employers; the human being and the natural environment. Travel light. Forget packaged products, non-biodegradable soaps, and bottled water.
TOURISM IN PROTECTED AREAS Coordination: Juan Freile Texts: Pía Hernández and Juan Freile Editor: Andrés Vallejo Design: Esteban Garcés Maps: Susana Crespo y Pablo Cabrera Correction of texts: Grace Sigüenza Translation: Mary Ellen Fieweger Review, Ministry of Tourism: Rodrigo Salas, Promotion/Publicity Office and Mónica Burbano Montalvo, Development and Facilitation Office Trademark use review: Sofía Bustos, Strategic Marketing Office
Travel slow. Walk a lot, pedal, and row. Avoid the use of cars and boats with motors. Respect traditions, cultures, and beliefs, including those you do not share. Find out what practices have a sacred or intimate meaning, and what is the behavior expected of tourists vis-à-vis said practices. Pay attention to the practices of the sites you stay at. Are garbage and waste waters managed? How are water and energy saved? Does the architecture have an impact on the landscape? Have former inhabitants been forced to leave the area? Remember that long showers, excessive washing of sheets and towels, and large swimming pools consume a lot of water, and this might be scarce in the region. Try to eat local, in-season foods. This supports the economy of the area and saves energy on transport and preservation. Find out if the season for fishing or hunting of specific species is closed, and what species are threatened before exploring the gastronomy of the area. Remember that buying wild animals or archaeological pieces is a crime. When diving or snorkeling, do not collect shells or damage coral reefs as these take a lot of time to grow. Never light a fire without taking appropriate precautions. Surround the fire with stones or make a shallow hole in the ground; do not light a fire in windy areas and make sure that it is completely out before leaving. Tell people about your trip and recommend the most responsible places.
Reviewed by the Ministry of the Environment Photo credits Jorge J. Anhalzer / Archivo Criollo: cover (Cotopaxi, ceibo, rafting), pages 5, 10, 17, 18, 20, 23, 24, 25, 28, 33, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43, 45, 55, 64, 69 (rafting, ceibo) Andrés Vallejo: cover (sunset), 16, 19, 32, 48, 50, 51, 73 (canoes) Roberto Espinosa: 2, 34, 59, 60, 61, 68, 74 Murray Cooper: 46, 47, 58 Felipe Vallejo: 8, 11, 72 Francisco Caizapanta / Ministry of Tourism: 31, 69 (cyclist) Instituto Nazca: 69 (starfish), 73 (crabs) Ivan Kashinsky: 12, 15 Pete Oxford / Archivo Criollo: 22 (frailejones), 54 Sebastián Crespo / Ministry of Tourism: 70 Michael Dammer: 44 José Donoso / FMPT Archive: 29 Karla Gachet: 14 Robert Gibson: 42 Pablo Larrea: inside cover Luis Mazariegos: 22 (hummingbird) Joaquín Oyhanarte: 75 Manuel Guerra: 30 Alfonso Tandazo / Ministry of Tourism: 65 Jorge Vinueza: 35 This document may be cited in the following way: Ecuador Terra Incognita, 2010, Ecuador: Tourism in protected areas, Ministry of Tourism, Quito © Ministry of Tourism of Ecuador 2010
e
Fre
Av. Eloy Alfaro N32-300 y Carlos Tobar Quito – Ecuador Telephones: (593 2) 2507 560 / 555 / 559 Fax: (593 2) 2507 565
Produced by: