ROCKS October 2014

Page 1

WA&NT

ADVENTURE TRAVEL • EVENTS • PEOPLE • ENTERTAINMENT • SPORTS

ISSUE 14 OCTOBER 2014

SLICING UP HOLLYWOOD WITH mister

HUGH JACKMAN BATHURST • GREAT SPORTS PILGRIMAGES • COOK ISLANDS


royal davui A N S W E R

T H E

C A L L

T O

P A R A D I S E

Ro y al Da v u i I sla n d Resor t is a n a dul ts o nl y pr i va te i s l a nd e s a c e p o fferi n g gue s t s a le v el of F ijia n lu xu r y , e l e g a nc e a nd pr i va c y no t f o und i n to d ays l a r g e r re s o r ts. W it h ju st 1 6 exq ui s i te l y a ppo i nte d V a l e s e t a c r o s s 8 acres o f l u s h t r o p ica l la n d sca p e, eve r y g ue s t e nj o ys the be s t o f bo th wo rl d s - en o u g h g e nu in e ca r e a n d w ar m th to k no w e ve r yo ne by na m e , an d th e u n p a r alle le d p r iv a cy a n d f r ee do m to be s e c l ude d i n the i r o w n tro p i cal oasis. B u la V in a ka - Welcome to R o ya l D a vui Is l a nd R e s o r t, F i j i

royaldavuifiji.com


Welcome to ROCKS, the in-flight magazine for Alliance Airlines Welcome aboard and I hope you enjoy this month’s issue of ROCKS. It’s with sadness that I write my final editor’s letter for this magazine, which I launched about two and a half years ago, shortly after meeting Scott Macmillan and Bryan O’Neil from Alliance Airlines. While I’m here, thanks for everything guys. Since then, I’ve flown on some of Alliance’s planes and visited some of the places where you all go to work. ROCKS has given me a real insight into, and a decent understanding of, the Australian mining and resource industry, not to mention the aviation industry. I’ve also met many extraordinary people while creating an entertaining travel, adventure and lifestyle magazine for the FIFO industry. I really hope you’ve all enjoyed reading it as much as I’ve enjoyed writing and editing it. Creating the fun and often-funny travel, adventure and sports articles, and writing and reading profiles of great athletes, stars and Australian personalities has been an exciting ride. And producing Inside Mining magazine every month has also opened my eyes to the many issues that everyone in mining either faces or has to know about. From taxes, the economy, machinery, technology and logistics issues, to indigenous and environmental issues, it’s been a big learning curve for me, and one that I will always be grateful for. So whether you are heading off to work on another shift or coming home for a well-earned break, I wanted to say bye for now. I’ll be popping up elsewhere, so see you around soon. It’s a great, big and exciting country and world out there. So make sure you enjoy it whenever and however you can. That’s what I’ll be doing. Take care and happy travels,

Scott McMillan Managing Director

Michelle Hespe, and the team at ROCKS and Alliance.

Adelaide, South Australia.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Michelle Hespe DEPUTY EDITOR Ben Smithurst ASSISTANT EDITORS Danielle Chenery, Simone Henderson-Smart SENIOR DESIGNER Guy Pendlebury SUB-EDITORS Helen Eva, Liani Solari CONTRIBUTORS Stephen Corby, Kris Madden, Christine Retschlag, Oryana Angel, Darrell Croker, Darren Baguley, Kevin Lee, Andrew Crossley, Melissa Baker

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Jason Popkowski 02 8962 2656 or 0400 838 490 advertising@edgecustom.com.au WA AND NT SALES AGENT Helen Glasson Hogan Media: 08 9381 3991 E: helen@hoganmedia.com.au PUBLISHER Geoff Campbell CEO Eddie Thomas PRINTER SOS Print & Media

ROCKS is published by Edge 51 Whistler Street, Manly NSW 2095 Phone: 02 8962 2600 edgecustom.com.au ROCKS is published by Business Essentials (Australasia) Pty Limited (ABN 22 062 493 869), trading as Edge. Reproduction in whole or in part without prior written permission is strictly prohibited. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and not necessarily those of the Publisher. Information provided was believed to be correct at the time of publication. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. ROCKS cannot accept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such items are sent to the magazine, they will not be returned. A selection of images used in this publication has been sourced from Thinkstock, Getty Images and Corbis.

September/October 2014

1


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THE GRANITES

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MELBOURNE

September/October 2014

3


EAST COAST PILBARA DIRECT

... simply the best FIFO experience.

PROVIDING CUSTOMISED AVIATION SOLUTIONS • FIFO charter services • ACMI aircraft leasing P W

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07 3212 1501 E sales@allianceairlines.com.au allianceairlines.com.au/charter


ABOUT US Alliance Airlines was established in 2002, recognising the growing demand from the domestic mining and energy sector for a provider of safe and reliable air transportation services to and from remote site locations. Alliance commenced operations with two Fokker 100 aircraft servicing two FIFO contracts, both of which are still serviced today. Our company has since expanded its fleet and operational capabilities to better service the continuing air transportation needs of the mining and energy sector . Alliance is a leading mining services company specialising in providing: • FIFO services • Ad hoc charter services • ACMI, or wet leasing, services. In December 2011, Alliance successfully listed on the ASX as AQZ.

FLIGHT BOOKINGS For customers wishing to book flights between Perth and Karratha, this must be done online: www.allianceairlines.com.au/home For customers wishing to book flights between Adelaide and Olympic Dam, this can be done online: www.qantas.com

OUR FLEET FOKKER F100

Number

18

Passengers

100

Length

35.5 metres

Wingspan

28 metres

Engines

RR Tay 650-15 Turbofans

Cruise Altitude

11,000 metres

Cruise Speed

800km/h

Range

3,167km

Passenger Detail

All economy seat configuration, 33-inch seat pitch, galley, toilet, pressurised, air-conditioned

FOKKER F70LR

CHARTER BOOKINGS For corporate or private charters of Alliance aircraft, the following contacts are available: www.allianceairlines.com.au/charters sales@allianceairlines.com.au 07 3212 1501

SAFETY INFORMATION Even though you may travel frequently, please familiarise yourself with the Safety On Board card located in your seat pocket.

ALCOHOL Passengers are not permitted to bring alcohol on board for in-flight consumption. On flights where Alliance offers a bar service, our flight attendants adhere to RSA guidelines.

SEAT BELTS Please observe the ‘Fasten Seat Belt’ signs when illuminated. In the interest of safety, keep your seat belt fastened at all times in case of unexpected turbulence.

CABIN BAGGAGE

Passengers should ensure that carry-on baggage does not weigh more than 7kg and fits into the overhead lockers.

Number

7

Passengers

75

Length

31 metres

Wingspan

28 metres

Engines

RR Tay 620-15 Turbofans

Cruise Altitude

11,000 metres

Cruise Speed

800km/h

Range

3,800km

Passenger Detail

All economy seat configuration, 33-inch seat pitch, galley, toilet, pressurised, air-conditioned

FOKKER F50

Number

6

Passengers

52

Length

25 metres

Wingspan

29 metres

Engines

2 x PW125B Turboprop

Cruise Altitude

7,800 metres

Cruise Speed

500km/h

Range

2,600km

Passenger Detail

All economy seat configuration, 33-inch seat pitch, galley, toilet, pressurised, air-conditioned

September/October 2014

5


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32 Bathurst’s 15 greatest moments

48

CONTENTS THE PICK

09

UNLEASHED

32 SPORTING PILGRIMAGES

A 2015’s worth of 15 mustsee events. Because why spend your life on the bench when you can have a box seat on the sidelines?

09 INCOMING!

Art and grub on Kangaroo Island, Jenny Lewis on stalking Tame Impala and a brilliant bikie memoir.

12 CRUST

40 SINGAPORE

The Lion City – like proper lions – may cost you an arm and a leg to visit. But who needs four whole limbs?

Beer gardens are summer’s ripest cherry – even if you prefer cider, wine or cola...

14 MAN + MACHINE

You wait years for a new BMW M3 – then two come at once (and one is an M4!)

ISSUE 14

40

48 BLISSING OUT IN BYRON BAY

The hipsters have moved in, but the hippies remain.

56 COOK ISLANDS From cannibal warriors to protectors of the sea.

IN ORE 16 INTERVIEW: HUGH JACKMAN Australia’s greatest ever pretend superhero talks X-Men, near-death and his time on Japan’s gropiest game show.

22 THE GREAT RACE’S BEST BITS EVER! Mount Panorama earned its place in world motorsport folklore with these 15 great moments.

insidemining • news & views • resources sector features • innovation & technology • the state of mining September/October 2014

7


UNBREAKABLE, NOW EVEN SAFER. HILUX 4x4. NOW WITH A 5 STAR ANCAP SAFETY RATING.

Whether for work or for play, the HiLux will take you where you want to go and get the job done safely. Visit your Fleet Specialist dealer today and experience the unbreakable.

2014

toyota.com.au/hilux


THE PICK

ROCKS has sniffed out the best stuff so you don’t have to. Just sit back, relax and enjoy!

E VENTS + ENTERTAINMENT + TECH + MOTORS + FOOD & DRINK

ON THE DOWNLOAD

Play, create, snap – 3 cool apps Gojee

(iOS, Free) It’s a curse: open the cupboard, have five random things, don’t know what to make. The answer is Gojee. Type in your ingredients, it spits out delicious recipes.

Keezy

THE FESTIVAL OF THE BOOT

> The Aussie Rules 2014 grand final is on Saturday, September 27, starting at the excellent daylight time of 2.30pm – and if you can’t get into the mighty ’G, the big screen at Federation Square is a reasonable substitute (as is the flatscreen of whichever mate makes the best BBQ wings). The NRL decider kicks off at the dewier, TV-mandated slot of 7.15pm, plus some faff-about minutes, on October 5, at ANZ Stadium, Sydney – but it’s very often even better on the box than the AFL’s ultimate day. Essential viewing, either way.

KANGAROO ISLAND ART FEAST

> Tasmania and King Island get the press, but they’re not our only island foodie paradises. They’re not even the only two refreshingly unpretentious enough that using the word ‘foodie’ may (deservedly) see you beaten. Kangaroo Island’s Art Feast dates to 2003, as a celebration of the 150km-long haven’s creative output and gourmet produce. This year sees 30-plus venues hosting over 150 artists (such as Scott Hartshorne, above), as well as a glut of chefs and winemakers, from October 2–6. kangarooislandartfeast.org.au

(iOS, Free) A rudimentary sound sampler app that’s for everyone. It comes pre-loaded with samples, including those by Reggie Watts and Tegan and Sara.

Red Herring

(Android & iOS, Free) A word association game from the people who made 7 Little Words, this app has you match three, three-word groups out of a list of 12 seemingly random words.

RUGBY MINUS THE BORING BITS

> Purists enjoy rugby’s grind, but if you embrace ADD there’s Sevens. Few sports open up like the 15-man game shorn of (most of) the fat blokes, and fans dress up, so it’s hard to go past the Gold Coast Sevens. The Goldie is Australia’s fleshiest destination, so expect hundreds of shirtless ‘centurions’ and 1000 bikini-clad Indian squaws. Two-day adult passes from $90, at CBUS Super Stadium, October 11–12, rugby.com.au/gc7s

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SAY WHAT?

Got something to say about ROCKS  ? Is there something you’re burning to see covered? Don’t mumble it under your breath – tell us what you think! Send an email to rocks@edgecustom. com.au and have your say.* *Please be kind – our fragile egos might not be able to take it.

14 September/October 2014

9


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THINNING HAIR can be a nightmare for both men and women. It can make you look less attractive, and also lead to disadvantages within your career and limit you in your partner choice. It can lead to depression, loss of self-confidence and even identity change. Scientists in Oxford promise that they can help keep your hair thick and healthy. Their pill TRX2 is currently one of Europe’s best-selling hair supplements and is sold in over 90 countries. TRX2 is a food supplement based on organic compounds and compared to medicinal products has no side effects whatsoever. Also it does what it says. “Your hair will look much bigger;
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backed by cutting-edge science and has been thoroughly tested. Three of the key ingredients in TRX2 are officially recognised by the European Commission as contributing to the maintenance of normal healthy hair*. The effects can be impressive. Start TRX2 as early as possible in order to address your hair problem before it is too late. TRX2 is suitable for men and women of all ages. The crystalline white capsules come in a brown glass bottle, which is sufficient for one month of treatment and costs approximately A$70. The manufacturer offers a money-back guarantee if ordered via TRX2’s official website, and ships worldwide. www.trx2.com, contact@trx2.com Oxford Biolabs Ltd, The Oxford Science Park, Oxford, UK *selenium, zinc, biotin

EXCLUSIVE PASSENGER DEAL Order via www.trx2.com and use the coupon code Alliance to receive an exclusive 5% discount


OUTER EDGE

BOOKS

MUSIC

JENNY LEWIS

AT THE ALTAR OF THE ROAD GODS

BORIS MIHAILOVIC, $29.99 Surprisingly, perhaps, from his menacing visage, former outlaw bikie bigwig Boris Mihailovic is a proper wordsmith. This, his second memoir, is a rollicking, frightening and hilarious series of lessons: on riding at extreme speed; on pilgrimages to a then-entirely-feral Bathurst and Phillip Island; on the moral compulsion to irritate the constabulary. Manlier than Ned Kelly’s beard sweat.

Image: Autumn de Wilde

Few videos go so viral as the clip for indie darling Jenny Lewis’ single ‘Just One Of The Guys’…

H

oney-voiced ex-Rilo Kiley frontwoman Jenny Lewis grew up a child TV and film star. So when it came to the clip for the first single off her third album, The Voyager (out now), Lewis called some mates and directed it herself. Happily, her speed-dial chums include Kristen Stewart, Anne Hathaway and Brie Larson. The resulting video – with the ladies posing as tracksuited douchebros – broke the internet for two days in July… That video really took off. Things happen so quickly now. It was crazy how many people saw it, and it was 24 hours of madness and then everyone was on to the next Weird Al video. You retweeted a review that says, ‘We like Jenny Lewis’s new song, but its

video is annoying as shit’. Hahaha! I love retweeting things like that. What I didn’t realise was the power of Kristen Stewart, her army of fans… I re-Tweeted that and they just attacked that guy who wrote that review! He got, like, hundreds of women just going after him. You embraced bro-dom. Something magical happens when you put on an Adidas tracksuit. There’s a certain swagger. I gave them one take, basically, and they all just nailed it – their dudes are all so obnoxious, but they’re obnoxious in different ways. You know Australia invented the tracksuit. What!? No way. That’s a true fact! (Note: later clarifying research reveals that this was a lie.) Well, thank you Australia. I let each ‘dude’ take theirs home.

It’s possible, for sure, that they’re wearing theirs right now. I know I am – mine’s red. Are you coming to Australia with this album? I’d like to. My other band, Jenny and Johnny, just played the Laneway Festival. It was like summer camp for indie rockers. We all became great friends, but I’m such a big Tame Impala fan that it got kind of embarrassing – I’m like a groupie. When they see me coming they’re like, ‘Whoa, there she is again,’ and I’m like, ‘HEY GUYS!’ Honestly, I think it creeped them out a little bit.

DIRTY WARS

JEREMY SCAHILL, $29.99 Since September 11, the US has embraced a new type of war, characterised by drone strikes, secret Special Forces ops and assassinations – sometimes of its own citizens (and ours). Jeremy Scahill spoke to CIA insiders, mercenaries and survivors to piece together the intent behind (and consequences of) their policy, and its colossal, ham-fisted scew-ups.

WAYFARING STRANGER

JAMES LEE BURKE, $29.99 Burke is old – going on 78 – and he’s been writing American noir, set among the violent roughnecks, criminals, hardass screws and alcoholic cops of Louisiana, for 47 years. His latest novel kicks off in 1934, with a 16-year-old’s run-in with Bonnie and Clyde, and runs a hard line of masculinity directly through WWII to the Wild West oil fields of Texas.

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SoundTouch™ 20 Wi-Fi music system – no extra equipment necessary. RRP $549.00 bose.com.au September/October 2014

11


WHERAET TO E INK & DR

FIVE OF THE BEST

BEER GARDENS Spring sunshine. Garden setting. Just add beer and mates and you’ve got the perfect arvo. WORDS: Simone Henderson-Smart

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Newport Arms Hotel Sydney, NSW

Benjamin on Franklin Adelaide, SA

The Brisbane Hotel Perth, WA

The Boatbuilders Yard Melbourne, Vic

With its jaw-dropping views across a bolt of blue water dotted with bobbing yachts, the Newport Arms feels more like a sailing club than a pub. The garden is vast, as is the menu. Grab a spot next to the water and try not to let the tanned, blonde locals distract you from the scenery. newportarms.com.au

Sure, it’s relatively small as far as beer gardens go, but the beauty of this place is in the pillowed pavilions that you can cram with your mates to create an instant harem/party palace vibe. All they need are some hookah pipes and belly dancers to really complete the scene. benjaminonfranklin.com.au

Take one stunning old 1890s pub, add some ’60s-inspired architectural flourishes, fine craft beers and a beer garden with split terraces, shady nooks and lush gardens … and you’ve got the perfect inner city haven for hipsters. BYO pipe and beard, roll up your trousers and chill with the bohemians. thebrisbanehotel.com.au

If you don’t mind your ‘garden’ being made of decking, this spot jutting into the Yarra is the perfect spot for a brew or three. There are amazing views of the city to remind you that you’re not at work, plus it’s so close to the water that you could throw in a line from your deckchair and really ramp up the holiday vibe. theboatbuildersyard.com.au

September/October 2013


CRUST

BAREFOOT BOWLING How do you turn a sport for old folks into something cool? Easy: Remove shoes, spin some tunes and fire up the barbie.

THE BOO Brisbane, QLD

The Scarborough Hotel Scarborough, NSW The Scarborough has a sea-cliff beer garden. That’s right – don’t get too close to the edge of the manicured lawn at this place because it’s quite a drop to the ocean below. Don’t worry – the garden is dotted with tables and chairs to minimise the possibility of such wayward excursions. Do book ahead, though, because this spot on the scenic drive between Sydney and Wollongong is very popular. thescarboroughhotel. com.au

The Boo is Brisvegas’ oldest bowlo, but the oldies don’t get much of a look-in here. It’s wall-to-wall barefoot youngsters, who turn up in droves for Recovery Sundays when DJs add chilled soul, funk and disco beats to go with the brews and bowling. The Mates Platter for four is piled high with fried chicken, arancini balls, pulled pork tortillas, meatballs and beer-battered chips – and it comes with a couple of jugs of lager to wash it all down. Like all such establishments, never use ‘bowling club’ when ‘bowlo’ will do. theboo.net.au

ADELAIDE BOWLING CLUB

NEUTRAL BAY CLUB

Adelaide, SA

Sydney, NSW

Another club that likes to turn Sundays into something special, the Adelaide Bowling Club hosts Sunday Superbowlz. Barefoot boys and babes fight it out on the greens (not literally – it would be uncouth) while resident DJs The House Cats keep the beats coming. From 3–6pm there’s a Grazing Menu offering pizzas, steak sambos and wedges. After 6pm they fire up the barbie to keep the party going well into the night. adelaidebowlingclub.com.au

It takes a fair bit of local knowledge to find this gorgeous little oasis of community fun and games hidden on Sydney’s lower North Shore. Yes, there’s barefoot bowling, which keeps both the oldies and their kids happily pacing the greens on a Sunday arvo. But there’s also a fair whack of tennis courts, and when it’s not covered in prancing partygoers, the springloaded wooden dance floor plays host to the more mellow pursuits of yoga and tai chi. It’s got the lot, really. neutralbayclub.com

September/October 2013

13


MAN + MACHINE

KRAUT

ROCKS goes to New Zealand to test the incredible new BMW M3 and M4. But what’s with the name? WORDS: BEN SMITHURST

M M4 IN FRONT, FOUR-DOOR M3 ON ITS TAIL

14

September/October 2014

ost marques have a motorsports or racing division that tweaks their road cars. They’re usually the best thing about the brand, because they embody all of the brand’s best bits mashed into a tin and injected with dangerous animal steroids. Holden has HSV, which is so deeply Australian that it’s decided a ‘family sedan’ must be capable of towing Uluru to Perth. Volvo has Polestar, where they like to do 150km/h Scando flicks, and then drive home safely at 49km/h. Nissan’s Nismo is like a Harajukugirl: equal parts scene-y and crazy. Great Wall doesn’t have one, because if you take a corner quickly in a Great Wall your car will disassemble. And BMW has M, which is simply brilliant. Since 1985, M’s finest

achievement has been the M3, a car that has represented everything great, but slightly unhinged, about being German: It is brilliantly engineered, extremely earnest and utterly crammed with wieners. The M3 is a man’s car, an induction-grunting sausage fest on 19-inch alloys. It is the manliest beast in BMW’s catalogue, and the pride of the brand. Which is why it was so perplexing when, this time around, BMW did something Decidedly Un-German. First, they changed its name. It was very confusing. And then they messed with a winning formula. The old M3 was the last of the naturally aspirated V8s, and also blessed with steadfast hydraulic – as opposed to false-feeling electromechanical – steering. Pure, if you will. And where an M3 used to be an M3, whether it was a two-door coupé (which it generally was) or a fourdoor sedan (which you had to ask for), from now on BMW is assigning all its car designation according to its doors: Two-doors get an evennumbered suffix, four-doors get an odd one. Which means we get an M3 (four doors) and an M4 (twodoor coupé) at once. Even though


THE E INSIDE LIN

they have exactly the same engine, drivetrain, chassis, basically the lot. Plus, the high-revving engine has been cut by two cylinders to be an inline six, and the steering is electric. On paper, and in M-car fan forums, everybody hated this, stamping up and down in their lederhosen and comically hurling their Tyrolean hats. They needn’t have been. Once again, M knew what it was doing. Trust the Germans. ROCKS went to the local M3/ M4 launch in New Zealand, a varied affair involving a 400-kilometre road drive preceded by rainy laps of the Hampton Downs Motorsport Park, North Waikato. It’s a short but lovely track, up-and-down in a fashion that references bits of the Nürburgring. It’s also a bit short, at just 3.8 kilometres a lap, but it

only takes 15 minutes on the circuit to realise that, instead of disgracing the M3’s legacy, BMW has actually created the best M car(s). Ever. Even if it doesn’t sound quite as belligerent

THE COUPÉ IS COOLER, BUT THE M3 GETS TO KEEP THE LEGENDARY NAME, PLUS DOORS. as before, and there’s some intrusive cabin noise. Its numbers are tremendous – 317kW and 550Nm – the latter figure providing a clue on how to lap speedily in the drizzle, the diesel-ish torque surging through bends with delicate acceleration and braking. Plant your foot, though, and it’s more than happy to hoon; the arse will step out happily, especially with the

traction and stability off, while it sits flat as a tack through bends. Each car has a 50:50 weight balance and does 0–100km/h in 4.1 seconds, while the introduction of those twin-turbos approximates the sort of linear acceleration the old naturally aspirated V8 was known for. This is because, in Sport or Sport+ mode, those turbos are constantly spinning quickly, ready to go, which scuppers turbo lag. Only 25 per cent of the engine is shared with the engine it is based on – the 3.0L 435i – and it shows. This straight-six has 40 per cent more torque than the old V8 – and nine more kilowatts. A six-speed manual is a no-cost option for both the M3 and M4, shaving 12 kilos and adding 0.2 seconds to the 0–100km/h time, but in terms of shifting speed, power application and even the fingertip comfort of the paddles, the seven-cog M Double-Clutch Transmission with Drivelogic is flawless. Which only leaves the choice. The coupé is cooler, naturally – cleaner without the rear doors, with a shapelier bottom, for $166,900. But the M3 retains the legendary name and has the extra practicality of back row entry (although there’s not enough leg room to make it a proper family sedan), which add a pinch of weight at 23 kilograms, for just $156,900. That $10k is telling in a car that’s identical in terms of performance but significantly more utilitarian. For all intents and purposes, BMW pays you 10 grand to have rear doors. Everything else about the M’s non-identical siblings makes sense. Perhaps, like other Teutonic jokes – sliced meat for breakfast, Rammstein, oompah bands – the pricing is a gag we just haven’t gotten yet. But if you can afford either car, you’re laughing.

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Hugh Jackman tells ROCKS about his alter egos and an awkward moment on a Japanese game show… olverine is the coolest mutant in the X-Men universe. While most mutants have just one power, James ‘Logan’ Howlett has two: cool retractable claws and a cool superhuman healing factor that enabled him to survive a (cool) indestructible metal alloy being bonded to his bones. He is hundreds of years old because he ages incredibly slowly, and even though he’s constantly smoking cigars and drinking, he never gets cirrhosis or has his toes fall off, like on cigarette packets. Likewise, Hugh Jackman. He has twin thespian powers: action hero and, er, all-singing, all-dancing Broadway musical star. He gets fitter as he ages; compare the trim, smooth Jackman of X-Men in 2000 with the super-ripped, rope-veined Jackman of X-Men: Days of Future Past today. And, like his comic alter ego, he’s beloved of all, because of a third superpower: He is charismatically, freakishly, un-hate-ably nice. How nice? “He was so omniscient in his niceness,” says Joel Stein, a comedy writer who helped pen Jackman’s 2009 Oscars

opener, “that not only did he look sad when we played him the Christian Bale freak-out tape, but he also, after agreeing to record a parody of it, called Bale to make sure it was cool if we put it online. He even let me try on the real, $18,000 plastic Wolverine claws.” Can niceness be a mutant power? ROCKS decided to check. Because while Wolverine is as close to Jackman’s heart as a mutant third ventricle, his coolness is surely overrated. In fact, in terms of powers, Wolverine is ultimately under-gunned. For example, his bones are metal. Magneto could easily destroy him – once, in the source comics, he tore all the metal from his bones. Is Wolvie, we ask, actually overrated when he’s not taking on normal humans, which must be like shooting fish in a barrel? “Oh, I don’t know about that. Unless you chop his head off, he’s going to come back at you, isn’t he!” says Jackman. “He has incredible healing powers. But that vulnerability you hint at is part of what makes him; that’s the beauty of the character. He is flawed even though he is strong and powerful.”

YOU DON’T KNOW

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YOU’VE DONE WELL, THOUGH – YOU’VE BECOME MASSIVELY MORE BUFF IN THE PAST DECADE.

AS I ATTEMPTED THE MOVE, MY NECK GOT STUCK ON THE EXIT WITHOUT TELLING MY BODY... SO HE’S PRACTICALLY IMMORTAL – BUT VULNERABLE, TOO.

His immortality was explored in the last movie, and again in X-Men: Days of Future Past, but I like that. If nothing else, it gives the character a very easy method for hitting back when you think he is defeated. Actually, in the latest film there are fewer mutants for him to fight, fewer teams for him to face. It’s more about characters and relationships. It’s an interesting change – I think it’s different from what you’ve seen in the past. I still reckon you wouldn’t want to mess with him, though! He’s still that antihero you don’t want to piss off!

WOLVERINE IS HUNDREDS OF YEARS OLD, SO HE BARELY AGES. UNLIKE, ER, YOU. FOR HOW LONG CAN YOU PLAY THE ROLE?

Well, I don’t think I’ll still be doing it in hundreds of years’ time, I think I can safely say that! Although, it’s a slight misconception that Wolverine doesn’t age – he does, just much slower than everybody else because he heals so well. It’s like he’s some protein monster. For me, it just means it takes longer to get ready in make-up every day! If you’re talking about my portrayal of Wolverine, in time to come it could be right for me to step aside, and I wouldn’t be afraid to do that if it was good for the character and meant he could continue to move forward and progress. I think any character needs to develop and be developed over time for them to stay interesting. You can’t just have a character remain the same forever or you get no reference to the point in time you’re looking at.

Well, thanks! It’s actually a huge commitment on my part in terms of training regime and diet, so that’s a nice thing to say.

WOLVERINE’S ‘UNKILLABLE’, THEN. WHAT’S BEEN YOUR CLOSEST REAL-LIFE BRUSH WITH DEATH? I should probably talk about the little op I had [skin cancer removal], but I suppose what you mean is a hairy moment, right?

HAIRY, YES, IDEALLY.

Well, that was when I was playing Wolverine during the making of the latest film. During the bullet train sequence – which I think is definitely the best part of the movie from an action point of view – I had a pretty scary moment. I had a bit of an accident, and it could have been a lot worse, believe me.

WHAT HAPPENED?

The idea was to flip outside the moving train [to] where there was a scene [where I’d be] clinging to the outside. As I attempted the move, my neck got stuck on the exit without telling my body, which then swivelled around and – bang! – everything stopped and I was

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Samuel L. Jackson. Probably.

FAMOUS DOPPPLEGANGERS HUGH JACKMAN AND ERIC BANA AREN’T THE ONLY CELEBS WHO ARE EASILY MIXED UP …

Matt Damon/Mark Wahlberg

Laurence Fishburne/Samuel L. Jackson your wife about, and one of those is when you have a serious accident while doing an action scene. Another one is when you’re doing a love scene with a beautiful actress!

Bill Paxton/Bill Pullman

WE GOOGLED YOU, AND THERE’S AN INCIDENT ON YOUTUBE WHERE YOU’RE ON A JAPANESE GAME SHOW AND … THE BANDAID ON THE NOSE FAD NEVER REALLY CAUGHT ON

Ah! Well, we’re usually quite well briefed about what will happen when we go on game shows and entertainment shows, but something obviously fell down on this one.

completely dazed. To be honest, the severity of the situation only dawned on me later, particularly when crew were coming up with concerned faces. I could have suffered serious neck injury on that one, but I’ve always been of the mind that if you emerge from something, then you’ve emerged, that’s that. It’s no use imagining what might have happened if you didn’t.

THE HOST TWISTS YOUR, AHEM, ‘MAN PLUMS’.

WHOA. WHAT HAPPENED AFTERWARDS, THOUGH?

IT WAS BRILLIANT.

My wife was asking why I was home so early, because I got sent home at about three that afternoon. I just had to play it down. There are a few things you don’t tell

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Perhaps the language barrier was the problem, but even if it hadn’t been, I think sometimes random stuff happens and there’s not a lot you can do about it. To be fair to the guy, I was playing about and he probably thought I was fair game. He was a great shot, too … too good.

Immersing yourself in that kind of game show culture is valuable in Japan, and Asia as a whole. I’ve always been game for a laugh and I had no problem with it. I know there are actors who wouldn’t do

David Koch/Beaker from the Muppets anything outside of their comfort zone, but how are you going to explore life if you live it like that?

WELL SAID. FINALLY, HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU BEEN MISTAKEN FOR ERIC BANA? HE’S THE ‘MARK WAHLBERG’ TO YOUR ‘MATT DAMON’.

Haha! Oh, all the time. I may as well change my name! That’s the worst thing about being mates with him. Actually, I don’t get recognised as much as you’d think, but we’re good mates. And I’m better looking anyway.


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INORE

DON’T MISS Supercheap Auto Bathurst 1000, Thurs October 9 to Sun October 12

2014

t looks impressive on television – a mountain scored in twisting tarmac, swarming with bearded blokes, tattoos and sponsored clothing – but to be at Bathurst is something else. Every year, Australians assemble in what has become a blokey rite of passage, to be assailed by the roar of V8s, dazzled by the sight of flaming exhausts and thrilled by the crashes, close calls and door-handle-to-door-handle racing. To drive there at pace is something entirely different; invigorating and terrifying all at once. It’s a concrete canyon of blind corners, 300km/h-plus straights and vertiginous S-bends. Television cannot prepare you for how steep Mount Panorama is, how dangerously on edge it makes a race car, and a driver. Bathurst is a place where magic mixes with tragedy and legends are made. Australia’s greatest touring car race has had too many great moments for a memory to hold, but here we present our definitive list of 15 of the very best. This year, we’re sure there’ll be a few more in store.

1971: A FALCON MIRACLE

Old racing cars were about as safe as a parachute made of Glad Wrap, but sometimes they broke in fortuitous ways. Bill Brown survived a crash in his Ford Falcon in 1971 – which saw the vehicle basically sliced in half by a safety fence after his tyre blew – because his seat back broke and he ended up lying on his back. “When the car finally came to rest, I was still conscious and they [the crowd] just ran over and started to tip the car up … I yelled out to them to stop – I smelled petrol and asked if anyone was smoking, could they kindly leave.”

1972: MOFFAT AT HIS BEST

Canadian-born Allan Moffat was a fierce competitor who made his name at Bathurst, and he never drove a braver race than his second place in 1972, behind the less famous Ian Geoghegan. Moffat’s Mustang couldn’t keep up with Geoghegan’s more powerful

WITH MOUNT PANORAMA’S GREAT RACE LOOMING LIKE A V8 INTERCEPTOR IN THE REARVIEW, ROCKS LAPS ITS 15 GREATEST MOMENTS. WORDS: STEPHEN CORBY

THE BEST OF 22

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‘Super Falcon’ on the straights, but he used his superior driving skills to harry him through the bends, eventually losing by just a second. Moffat also drove more than half the race with his seatbelts off so he could put his head out the window to see where he was going – Geoghegan’s car had developed an oil leak and was spraying Moffat’s windscreen with oil, which he smeared by putting his wipers on.

1974: RAINING CHAMPIONS

Peter Brock was hot favourite in his SLR 5000 Holden Torana, and built up a huge six-lap lead early on before being felled by mechanical gremlins. That left the way open for a fairytale win by privateers John Goss and Kevin Bartlett, the latter who could barely walk after suffering nasty leg injuries in an open-wheeler crash just weeks before (the engineers set up a special platform for him to operate the clutch at Bathurst). It rained long and hard, stretching the 1000km race to its longest time ever – just under eight hours – and Goss and Bartlett somehow held on in the XA GT Falcon, despite slamming into a bank on lap 124. One of the gutsiest wins ever.

1977: FORD FANS IN RAPTURES

At the height of the Holden vs Ford rivalry, when the ‘win on Sunday, sell on Monday’ theory was more like a fact, the Blue Oval provided its fans with their proudest moment ever as Allan Moffat and Colin Bond ran side by side on the final lap, parading their way to a dominant one-two victory. Officially, Moffat was slightly in front and took the win, but the synchronised finish was a bit of PR genius and the No 1 and No 2 Ford cars coming down Conrod Straight together is one of the iconic images. Not a year goes past when it isn’t wheeled out in a highlights package on the TV coverage.

he could win without expending too much effort. This was never truer than in 1979 when he won by a staggering six laps, a record that will probably never be broken. Far from cruising home, however, Brock waited until his fuel load was low and then, on the 161st and last lap of the race, he went hell for leather, driving the wheels off his

WATCHING PETER BROCK, IT OFTEN SEEMED LIKE THE GAP BETWEEN HIM AND MERE MORTAL DRIVERS WAS SO LARGE THAT HE COULD WIN WITHOUT EXPENDING TOO MUCH EFFORT.

Torana A9X and smashing the lap record. Just because he could. Champion.

1979: IN THE DRIVER’S SEAT

It’s something we take for granted today, but the world’s first in-car camera – which was roughly the size of a Hills Hoist and probably came with a significant weight cost – was fitted to the Toyota Celica of Peter Williamson at the 1979 Bathurst race. He probably got some good vision of Brocky lapping him repeatedly. It was Brock, though, who would go on to give us the great in-car commentary moments, as we watched him casually chatting to camera, one elbow on the window sill, over the next few years. Magical.

1979: BROCKY’S BEST

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1983: JOHNSON SMASHED AGAIN

1980: CRUSHED BY ROCK

Perhaps the most famous moment in Bathurst history was one of tragedy rather than triumph, as Dick Johnson’s charge towards a famous first victory was undone by a football-sized rock rolling onto the track and taking out his Tru Blue Falcon. Johnson, who would go on to become one of the most beloved motor sport icons, was leading the field by 40 seconds when the rock – dislodged accidentally by a spectator – fell onto the track in just the wrong place. Not only was his race over, Johnson thought his career was done, but the public’s sympathies were so stirred by his post-crash interview that money flooded in and he went on to win Bathurst three times in the 1980s. He still has the rock in a glass case in his office.

CRAWLING OUT THE LEFT-HAND SIDE DOOR, JOHNSON HAD NO RECOLLECTION OF THE ACCIDENT, OR OF BEING PICKED UP AND TAKEN BACK TO THE PITS BY HIS OLD FOE BROCK.

1981: MASSIVE PILE-UP

Crashes usually add a bit of excitement to the mix at Bathurst, and the collision between Bob Morris and Christine Gibson might have been just another one if it wasn’t for the fact that their broken cars ended up blocking the track at McPhillamy Park. This left the massive pack of drivers behind them with nowhere to go and they piled into one another with terrific force and phenomenal damage. The ensuing chaos was so epic that the race had to be called off, and when the few cars remaining in working order were counted through to find a winner, who should end up on top of the dais but ... Dick Johnson. Just 12 months after the unhappiness of The Rock Incident, he was on top of the world.

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AFTER THE CRASH DICKO COULD ONLY FIND HIS WIFE’S SUNNIES

Dick Johnson was in the wars again in qualifying for the 1983 race, absolutely destroying his car during the Hardies Heroes qualifying session as he ploughed off the track and into the trees at Forrest’s Elbow in an attempt to better Peter Brock’s time. Crawling out the left-hand side door because the right one was mangled, Johnson had no recollection of the accident or being picked up and taken back to the pits by his old foe Brock. Incredibly, the car was rebuilt overnight by students at the Bathurst TAFE, and he somehow managed to start the race, his brain no doubt still rattling between his ears.


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1994: LOWNDES ARRIVES

1992: SPRAYING OBSCENITIES, AS WELL AS CHAMPERS

The race was exciting enough, with Jim Richards and Mark Skaife dominating most of the way in their awesome Nissan GT-R before Richo crashed it badly in the pouring rain. But it was what happened next that lives in infamy. The rain was so bad that the race was red flagged and the Nissan was declared the winner on a countback to the last completed lap, which did not please the Holden and Ford-loving fans. They booed Richards and Skaife on the podium, and Gentleman Jim fired back with his infamous “you’re a pack of arseholes” retort. He was probably lucky to get out of there alive, but it was great television.

DID YOU KNOW? Like the even more insane 24 Hours of LeMans, it was once legal to race The Great Race just one driver the whole time, and thus no changeover – an option that was outlawed in 1973. Two wheelmen have won it solo, and both remain legends on the mountain: Allan Moffat and Peter Brock. The great rivals, and later friends and co-drivers, are the only men to have won Bathurst in both its 500mile and 1000km formats. Now 74, Moffat lives in Saskatchewan, Canada.

THEY BOOED RICHARDS AND SKAIFE ON THE PODIUM, AND GENTLEMAN JIM FIRED BACK WITH HIS INFAMOUS “YOU’RE A PACK OF ARSEHOLES” RETORT. HE WAS PROBABLY LUCKY TO GET OUT OF THERE ALIVE... 28

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Craig Lowndes was just 20 years old when he raced at Mount Panorama for the first time, and it was clear from the start that he was going to be something special. Veteran John Bowe was leading the race when Lowndes loomed behind him coming up Mountain Straight into the notoriously tricky Griffins Bend. Bowe covered the inside channel to block any sensible overtaking move, but Lowndes simply did the unthinkable, driving right around the outside of him in an unfeasibly ballsy, and successful, move. The new King of the Mountain, or at least its prince, had arrived. Lowndes would go on to win five Bathurst races (and counting).

1995: DOING IT THE HARD WAY

Larry Perkins and co-driver Russell Ingall were rated as no chance of winning in 1995 after dropping out on the first lap of the race to change a flat tyre, but they managed to go from last place to first in a stunning victory that has since become part of Bathurst folklore. Spare a thought, though, for Glenn Seton, who would have held them off except for his Falcon dropping a valve with fewer than 10 laps to go. Holden fans were in heaven over Perkins’ win in his Castrol Commodore, but Seton ended the day in tears. A race that had it all.


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INORE

THE AFTERMATH OF THE FAMOUS CRASH BETWEEN MURPHY & AMBROSE, 2005

2003: THE LAP OF THE GODS

Possibly the most memorable lap of Mount Panorama happened the day before the actual race in 2003, when Greg Murphy put in a qualifier that was so close to perfection it’s become known as The Lap of the Gods. The idea of a lap in the 2min 6sec bracket had always been considered impossible, and when Murphy drove out that day, John Bowe had already set a blisteringly quick 2min 7.95sec poll time. But the fiery Kiwi simply blitzed it, beating him by 1.096 seconds – a vast gap in motorsport terms – and smashing the lap record. Even his competitors lined pit lane to applaud his effort as he drove back into the pits and into the history books. It took another seven years for the cars to get fast enough to match it, with Craig Lowndes eventually lowering the mark in 2010.

2005: CUTTING EACH OTHER UP To this day, one of Marcos Ambrose’s greatest regrets is not punching Greg Murphy after their spectacular and contentious crash going into The Cutting back in 2005. The two determined drivers bumped into each other coming out of turn two, and Ambrose then edged ahead as they tore up the hill to The Cutting. But Murphy wouldn’t back down and their cars collided spectacularly, launching Ambrose into the wall at high speed and causing a huge

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“THIS IS FOR YOU, PETER,” HE MANAGED TO SAY, HIS VOICE CRACKING AND TEARS RUNNING DOWN HIS FACE. EVEN THE TOUGHEST BLOKES IN THE CROWD LET THEMSELVES SHED A TEAR.


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pile-up behind them. Ambrose and Murphy were both out of their damaged cars, and their helmets, in record time and stood nose to nose, shouting at each other. Presumably they were exchanging insurance details.

2006: “THIS IS FOR YOU, PETER”

The Mountain belonged to Peter Brock, nine-time winner and all-round legend, and the year that he died it was scrawled all over with graffitied goodbyes. Fate also stepped in to make the farewell Peter Perfect as his protégé, Craig Lowndes, drove a Commodore to victory and then took the top step of the dais, filled with emotion. “This is for you, Peter,” he managed to say, his voice cracking and tears running down his face. Even the toughest blokes in the crowd let themselves shed a tear.

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15

SPORTING PILGRIMAGES EVERY FAN SHOULD MAKE IN 2015


UNLEASHED

THE YEAR OF LIVING

FANGER OUSLY Muslims go to Mecca. Elvis fans visit Graceland. Eat, Pray, Love divorcees twiddle their chakras in Ubud. (Some pilgrimages are dumb.) But if you’re a sports fan, some events are truly unmissable… WORDS: BEN SMITHURST

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SS D O N’ T M I The Hong Kong Rugby Sevens SUPER BOWL Where: Arizona, USA When: February 1, 2015

In three words: visibly necked prettyboys March 27–29, 2015, Hong Kong irbsevens.com

NBA ALL-STARS Where: Madison Square Garden, New York When: February 15, 2015

WHY:

WHY: It’s the world’s priciest sporting event, with last year’s tickets averaging more than $3000 – which bought a seat, outside, in 9°C New Jersey weather, where Seattle walloped Denver 43–8. And yet, few complained. Next year’s will be warmer, as it’s being held in Phoenix. “You almost need earplugs when the teams enter the stadium for the warm-up, let alone when they kick off,” marvelled beet-faced News Ltd league fanboy Phil Rothfield, who went in 2013. “I’ve seen nothing like it in a lifetime of sports entertainment.” But if it’s cheap atmosphere you’re after, don’t discount a tailgate party. Held before games – you might recall the scene from Silver Linings Playbook – they’re a fanatic’s barbecue free-for-all, where you can wander with a six-pack and chow down on strangers’ brisket. The best, reportedly, occurs before Chiefs’ games at Kansas City’s Arrowhead Stadium. No ticket required. nfl.com

Sure, it’s an exhibition game, invented in 1951 to distract people from a points-shaving scandal – but still, The All-Stars is an entity of its own, with Eastern and Western conference ballers elected by ballot and an emphasis on attack. This year East came from 18 down to win 163–155, led by LeBron James, who began with a deft steal-to-slam … before Pharrell, Snoop and Busta played at halftime. “We wanted this win,” said James. nba.com

THE MASTERS Where: Augusta National Golf Club, Georgia, USA When: April 9–12, 2015

“I don’t think “Every shot is within a about winning fraction of the Masters disaster – that’s as part of the what makes it slam. You so great.” Gary Player want to win The Masters “The course because of what is perfection it means to and it asks the game.” perfection.” Jack Nicklaus

BALTIMORE’S RAY LEWIS BOWS OUT IN SUPER BOWL XLVII

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WHY:

Nick Faldo

Sorry, British Open, but this is the world’s greatest golfing event. masters.com


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UNLEASHED WIMBLEDON

decibels: Sharapova’s loudest ever Wimblegrunt

Where: Wimbledon, England When: June 29–12, July 4, 2015

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24 HOURS OF LE MANS Where: Le Mans, France When: June 13–14, 2015

WHY: A true carnival of motorsport, this is a gathering of tribes: anorak Englishmen with thermoses, Germans dressed normally (as ’80s video clip extras), amiable drunk Dutchmen. Plus, dust and sun and pommes frites. The world’s oldest active sports car endurance race, Le Mans has been held since 1923, 210km west of Paris in the Loire Valley. A crowd of 250,000 means hotel stays are scarce and pricey, but camping is better, anyway, and a wild way to fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere. To see Le Mans racers squirt out of a tight corner, at inky black 3am – under headlights, without overhead illumination – is a bigger high than any in the allnight trackside dance tent raves. 24h-lemans.com

years since an Englishman has won. Ha!

TOUR DE FRANCE Where: France, the Netherlands, Belgium When: around three weeks from July 4, 2015

WHY: It is the oldest and most prestigious of Europe’s famous Grand Tours. Mike Ellott, 38, has followed Le Tour five times.

“It’s even better than you imagine – the build-up is massive. If you pick the mountain stages, which you should, you’ll be standing on a beautiful mountain with a million people of all nationalities, in great spirits. It kind of is hard to get around, but that’s half the adventure. Most people camp; you just find a spot by the road in a field and set up your tent in the pitch black, then wake up surrounded by wild horses and some Spanish guy comes over and says, ‘We’re having a barbecue, boys, fancy a feed?’ And you share a beer. It’s an adventure.”

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DON’T MISS The 2015 Ashes in England In three words: Pup and Pierce First Test, July 8–12, Sophia Gardens (Wales); Second Test, July 16–20, Lord’s; Third Test, July 29 to August 2, Edgbaston; Fourth Test, August 6–10, Trent Bridge; Fifth Test, August 20–24, The Oval. cricket.com.au

AFL/NRL GRAND FINALS

FORMULA 1 AT MONZA

Where: Melbourne (AFL)/ Sydney (NRL) When: late September/ early October

Where: Monza, Italy When: early September

WHY: The festival of the boot – Australian Rules’ season pinnacle on the last Saturday in September and the league’s equivalent in late September/ early October on a Sunday – is arguably the best pairing of rivals since Magneto mucked in with the X-Men. afl.com.au; nrl.com.au

Why: Perhaps rivalled only by the Belgian GP in terms of a classic venue steeped in history, but while Spa’s often wet track means close racing, there’s nothing like the atmosphere of Monza. The Italian GP is always packed, not least with devastatingly sexy Italians, soaking up the sun – Monza’s seen just one significantly wet race, in 1998, of the 63 races it’s hosted since 1950. As of mid-2014, Ferrari had won their home GP 19 times. Aim to sit at the Parabolica, one of just three proper corners at Monza, where cars approach at 330+km/h, and apex, in fourth gear, at a snail’s pace of around 215km/h. Drink Peroni. Smile. formula1.com/races/in_detail/italy_928

MESSI AT CAMP NOU Where: Camp Nou football stadium, Barcelona When: La Liga begins in August

WHY: Lionel Messi is undoubtedly one of the world’s greatest players, and he’s signed and sealed at the Catalans’ club until 2018 (on a base salary of just $29 million per season). Now he’s playing alongside Neymar, the 22-year-old Brazilian genius named by Pelé as his true successor. Barca’s home pitch, Camp Nou, is a legendary venue that holds almost 100,000 fans. The combination of the three is enough to make any real football fan tear up faster than Cristiano Ronaldo deprived of mirrors. fcbarcelona.com

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UNLEASHED LENNOX HEAD’S OWEN WRIGHT: LOVES BIG LEFTS

MELBOURNE CUP Where: Flemington Racecourse, Melbourne When: the first Tuesday in November

PIPE MASTERS Where: Haleiwa, Hawaii When: December

WHY:

© ASP/ Robertson

“The Melbourne Cup is the Australasian National Day. It WHY: would be difficult to overstate The final stop on the world surfing tour is at its most its importance … I can call to storied (and statistically deadliest) wave, the Banzai mind no specialised annual Pipeline. World titles are routinely decided at the last stop on the ASP world tour, with a unique seeding day, in any country, whose system that allows expert, something-to-prove locals approach fires the whole to take on the top guns, in conditions that are almost land with a conflagration of guaranteed to be epic and scary, thanks to a two-week waiting period. But where the Super Bowl is the world’s conversation and preparation most expensive ticket, to sit on the sand at and anticipation and jubilation, Pipeline is absolutely free. Pipe breaks just but this one does it.” 100 metres from shore, meaning that, ’T MISS N O D Mark Twain, 1897 pound-for-pound, the Pipe Masters is not just the ultimate destination on a 12-month sporting odyssey – it’s perhaps the world’s greatest spectacle. And everyone gets JackNicholson-courtside-at-the-Lakers seating. aspworldtour.com

The Rugby World Cup Final In three words: Cauliflower eared bruisers October 31, 2015, at 4pm, Twickenham, London. rugbyworldcup.com

General admission tickets to the race that stops a nation start at just $74. Which you’ll win back on the first, obviously… melbournecup.com

September/October 2014

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UNLEASHED n global terms, Singapore is such a distinctive sort of city-state that it feels like it must be very, very old; a nexus of trade and culture for millennia, where Indiana Jones once shot a man off a sampan. But it’s not. Singapore is new. Newer than Sydney. It’s been inhabited for 850 years, but after Portuguese raiders burned it to the ground in 1613, the 1,000 remaining locals sat about on the charred bits for more than two centuries. Since then it’s seen glorious British imperialism (twice), glorious Japanese conquest (once, when the systematically massacred Malay clogged Sentosa Beach) and even two quick years mucking in with Malaysia. Yet, since 1965, the Lion City has stood on its own: a benignly fascist citadel of commerce and trade. A place where chewing gum has been banned since 1994, spitting is illegal and – less benignly – where they finished the ’90s with the world’s second-highest per-capita execution rate. Singaporean jurisprudence does not screw about. As such, the footpaths sparkle in the sunlight, the train timetabling would embarrass Swiss watchmakers, and its traffic – fleets of gleaming, late-model metal – parades serenely along wide, Reich-ian boulevards. And so it is popular to think of Singapore as sterile, shorn of the madcap laissez-faire energy of Bangkok or Hanoi. It’s not. In fact, Singapore is a booming, cosmopolitan, retail-saturated testament to urbane urban excellence. If a peak-time arrival at Kingsford Smith or Charles de Gaulle or LAX is like being beaten awake with the empty flagon of last night’s port,

Singapore might just be the world’s priciest city – but don’t let that hold you back. WORDS: BEN SMITHURST

SINGA 40

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THE WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE BUILDING, THE MARINA BAY SANDS

PORE September/October 2014

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touching down at Changi is a morning caress from a dew-lipped lover. Singapore’s customs officers fairly usher you through, unless you’re busted for drug offenses, and then you’ll be heading city-wards along a glorious, broad, tree-lined expressway – or on the brilliant MRT train line –20 minutes after you deplane. Presumably, you’ll be wanting a drink. Boozing in Singapore is a celebration of the wonderful, icecap-melting interplay of modern air conditioning and tropical heat. Sipping an alfresco Tiger beer after a day inside, sweat beading on your brow and between your shoulder blades, is a perfect sunset ritual – although it’s pricey. (Flush with high-salaried, ex-Hong Kong finance professionals, Singapore is perhaps now the world’s most expensive city, a point in which it takes a certain pride.) Club Street is a neighbourhood of its own, lined with bars and restaurants. A stubbie almost anywhere will cost around S$14 (AU$12), but happy hours – usually from 5–6pm but often extending later – are everywhere. Slurp cocktails at Club Street Social (clubstreetsocial.com) or Bartini (bartini.com.sg), basement whiskies at B28 (btwentyeight.com) or rooftop beer at La Terraza (screeningroom.com.sg) or Fry Bistro. The Cufflink Club, set in a restored shop house in Jiak Chuan Road, Chinatown, is run by Brit mixologist Joel Fraser, and does an espresso martini so great it’s practically a coffee bean’s Valhalla. Boat Quay is a utilitarian row of terraced pubs, where the Singapore River spills into Marina Bay and where buckets of lager – and English Premiership Football – are the order of the day. On Marina Bay, across from the

DID YOU KNOW? Singapore’s founder, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles – whose statue stands outside the Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall – also founded the London Zoo in 1825.

OPENED IN 1899, RAFFLES’ LONGBAR GAVE BIRTH TO THE SINGAPORE SLING.

water-puking Merlion statue, is the famous Marina Sands. Here is the world’s most expensive building, costing $5.7 billion – including the land. Three 55-storey towers capped by the boat-like Sands Skypark, it looks mostly like stumps, with the Skypark its bails. The Skypark has restaurants, gardens and a 150-metre infinity pool … but the real high rolling occurs below. Pangaea (pangaea.sg), the ultra-lavish nightclub lounge that sits beneath the casino complex, books tables from $2000–$15,000 … and reportedly grosses $100k a night. From punters, many billionaires, who’ve been shopping at the Sands’ mega-luxe mall all day (Prada, Gucci, Chanel, Cartier, et al). Brilliant cocktails, if you can get in.

September/October 2014

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UNLEASHED YOU’LL STRUGGLE TO FIND BAD INDIAN FARE. DUNLOP STREET, LITTLE INDIA

Failing that, flit back across the bay and try One Altitude (1-altitude.com). It’s the highest rooftop bar in the Lion City, allowing you literally to look down upon the Sands. Great views, even if the drinks don’t reach the same heights. Then there’s always Raffles. Opened in 1899, the grand old hotel is famous as an enduring bulwark of Western imperialism, and its Long Bar was the birthplace of the Singapore Sling. High tea at Raffles is a cliché – charming despite its touristy trappings and a fantastic way to dress smartly and pretend you’ve retired after a day of harrumphing beneath your pith helmet (although it is pricey: around $70pp). When Japanese occupying forces swamped the nation in 1942, completing “the worst disaster and largest capitulation in British history”, according to Winston Churchill, Raffles’ dapperly dressed guests were interrupted dancing one final waltz. This is a bittersweet and romantic sort of image, but its whimsy did not rub off on the invaders, who promptly slaughtered up to 100,000 locals. It was they who littered Sentosa Beach. That land, since reclaimed, is now a very fine golf course. Singapore is a helluva place, and throughout its history it has also been hell. But now it is lovely. And its multicultural nature produces perhaps the finest mix of cuisine in Asia. Hawker centres provide street food – predominantly satays – across the city; ask any local or cabbie after 6pm. Marina Bay has fine, creative Japanese at Kinki (kinki.com.sg; try the Japanese ‘nachos’) with a view of the Sands and a breezy open-air bar. The wonderful, casual Kilo (kilokitchen.com), a second-floor mix of Japanese and Italian comfort food on the Kallang River, is near the heart of the city but feels 30 kilometres away, in an odd, suburban tower block. Little India, the district east of the Singapore River, across from Chinatown, is a challenge: everywhere is authentic

… OR BAD FOOD FROM ANY CORNER OF ASIA, REALLY. TUCK IN!

WINSTON CHURCHILL DECLARED THE FALL OF SINGAPORE “THE WORST DISASTER AND LARGEST CAPITULATION IN BRITISH HISTORY.”

and rich, as indeed is Indian – and most other cuisines – in any of a hundred food courts. French is well covered at surprisingly good value by L’entrecôte, in three locations (lentrecôte.sg; wholly devoted to cheap and good steak-frites), and The French Stall, in Serangoon Road – and opposite a Shell servo (snipurl. com/291ocf7). There’s even brilliant Mexican at Lucha Loco (luchaloco.com), which is booked out a week in advance. (Beware: the minimum S$50-a-head price arrives quickly.) Indiana Jones might not approve, but despite being in Asia, it’s more convincingly South American – and, indeed, convincing – than anything Indy confronted in the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull. A future shock of high-rises skirted by the greenest of greens the city might be, but Singapore is not sterile. And while the town-wide adventure buzz of

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AFTER FRESH FROG LEG PORRIDGE? HEAD TO GEYLANG LOR 9

A RED-LIGHT DISTRICT SPARED SINGAPORE’S POST-’70S GENTRIFICATION, GEYLANG IS EVERYTHING THE REST OF THE CITY ISN’T: SWARMING SCOOTERS, SCRAMBLING FOOT TRAFFIC, SIDEWALK BARS... THE LOWDOWN GO Qantas

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Manila or Hong Kong may be lacking, it’s still there. Away from the expats and pinstripe suits is Geylang, Singapore’s seediest hood situated immediately east of the CBD. A red-light district spared Singapore’s post-’70s gentrification, Geylang is everything the rest of the city isn’t: swarming scooters, scrambling foot traffic, sidewalk bars, karaoke joints and clamour. Where alternate parallel alleyways are entirely crammed with frog-porridge vendors (divine) or strip joints. Colour and movement and noise. It’s the perfect riposte to Singapore’s naysayers, and a welcome breath of rich, manky air. Singapore is Asia at its most orderly, civil and safe. It is the perfect spot for a drama-free break … or, if you’re an intrepid wannabe adventurer, a place to peddle into Asia with your training wheels still on. Note: actual cyclists must not ride on the footpath. Collision with a pedestrian may result in a $5000 fine. The fine for chewing gum is a similarly lofty $500.


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CHILL FACTOR The east coast town is always bustling yet somehow always chilled.

ES I P P HI RSUS ! VE TERS S HIP

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M

y face is being gently, repeatedly prodded in a whisper-quiet room in a 100-yearold country house in the fields of Mullumbimby. The woman works quietly on my Facial Harmony ‘facelift’, taking the stress out of my face, along with the wrinkles. Or so I’m told. It’s a facelift without creams, potions, surgery or pain – just a massage-like treatment at the hands of Meredith Plowman, who is a healer and kinesiologist and a former pizza shop owner from Sydney. “People hold stress in their faces,” she says. “We need to let go of negative thoughts and energy.” She holds up a vintage mirror so I can compare the side of my face that has been ‘lifted’ with the side that hasn’t. The side that’s been prodded looks remarkably smooth. Or maybe I’m just relaxed. For Meredith, being here in the Byron Bay hinterland on the NSW north coast is a world away from selling pizzas in the city. She’s now living her dream and helping people to find inner calmness at her practice, Paradiso Healtharium. That’s why many people come to the region: to relax, rejuvenate and get back in touch with those things they’ve lost while living in the big smoke. The local rag, The Echo, is sporting a tagline this week that says: “Written by dolphins for discerning readers.” Inside, there are pages upon pages of practitioners offering everything from yoga lessons to Tantric sex tips – in a nutshell, a happier self draped in organic cotton and rainbows, saluting the sun with a kale shot in hand.

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THE CRYSTAL CASTLE. KINDA LIKE STONEHENGE, ONLY MUCH SMALLER

DID YOU KNOW Skeptical about crystals and energy? Quartz crystals actually produce piezoelectricity – meaning they can produce electricity when placed under mechanical stress. Not only this, but they maintain a precise frequency standard, which is why they are used for accurate timekeeping in watches and clocks.

I head further into the hinterland to the Crystal Castle. You’d be forgiven for expecting an enormous palace made of crystal, like the one in The Wizard of Oz. Not quite. However, this serene, beautifully landscaped property in the verdant, flowering hills of Mullumbimby is certainly all about crystals. It’s also about the peaceful place where they’ve come to rest, having been collected from around the world by local entrepreneur Naren King. The property itself has gardenlovers almost doing excited cartwheels along the three-storey-high bamboo tunnels, which shelter ancient-looking stone-step paths, to the waterlily-laden ponds where massive stone Buddhas take centre stage. There’s also a café, a meditation space, a bookstore bursting with more crystal titles than I’d imagined were published, and even a space for whale song workshops. The abundant crystals – many of them bigger than I’d ever seen – are displayed on the open lawns, in entrances, along paths, in niches, on decks and balconies and in ponds. They’re everywhere, from pebblesized charms, to a spherical rose quartz bigger than a fair-winning pig, to amethyst diodes that wouldn’t look out of place as time-travel booths in Star Wars. Before you go, even if you don’t 50

September/October 2014

LIKE IT OR LUMP IT, MONEY MOVED INTO TOWN LONG AGO AND THE POPULATION HAS BOOMED. believe that a camera connected to steel plates on chair arms can record your inner world and display your vibe in technicolour patterns, have your aura read. You never know – some of the colours of the rainbow might have latched onto you during your stay in Byron.

WAY OF LIFE Graced with both mountains and sea, Byron is many different things to the many people who gravitate towards one of the prettiest coastal havens in Australia: lost souls needing healing; those shaking off the shackles of a consumerist society and embracing a selfsustainable lifestyle; artists, writers, surfers, dreadlocked nomads and blues-loving festival-goers. Byron is home to thousands of people who love living in a beautiful region with a busy hub that is chockers with cafés, restaurants, bars and a year-long diary of events. Like it or lump it, money moved into town long ago and the population has boomed.

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LUXURY IN THE FOREST

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THERE’S NO EXCUSE FOR NOT COMPLETELY RELAXING.

GLORIOUS FOOD Byron is synonymous with food. It’s always been a place where you can indulge in fresh, organic produce and lose yourself in regional and farmers’ markets where vendors pride themselves on selling the finest fruit, vegetables and meat products sourced from the local region. Three highly lauded eateries are: Rae’s on Wategos for fine dining and a view to die for; Harvest Café in Newrybar for exquisite organic produce, fresh from the garden, served in a ranch-style cottage; and Byron Beach Cafe, right on Clarkes Beach, with sprawling views and a friendly, laid-back vibe. If you can fit all three in, go for it. In a Miami-style mansion backing onto rugged, coastal bushland and overlooking glorious Wategos Beach, alfresco dining by the beach doesn’t get more romantic than Rae’s. With the waves crashing barely 20 metres away, the whitewashed dining space with plantation shutters opening onto the palm-filled courtyards is the kind of space you could lounge in all day. And you can. Relax in the cushioned window seats, kick off with a clever or classic cocktail, and then indulge in a seafood-based menu (try the seared local fish fillet with sticky herb and

LUXE INTERIOR MEETS LUSH EXTERIOR AT BYRON RESORT AND SPA

H

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One place that sums up the luxury and tranquillity that many desire when they want to chill out is the Byron at Byron Resort and Spa. Set among 45 acres of subtropical rainforest, the resort has Balinesestyle villas with plantation shuttered bi-fold doors and balconies that open onto a stunning expanse of trees, ferns and flowers. Wooden boardwalks throughout the resort lead to Tallow Beach within minutes. With a 25-metre lap pool set among manicured gardens peppered with day beds and lounges, and flanked by a wall of forest, there’s no excuse for not completely relaxing. And with waiters ready to deliver cocktails to you poolside, luxury blends perfectly with chilling out.

SURFERS OFTEN SHARE WAVES WITH DOLPHINS IN THIS HIPPY HAVEN

young coconut salad) with matched wines. If private dining is more your style, an intimate meal can be tailored to your whims and presented poolside or in your room above the restaurant. Harvest Café is a different kettle of fish but one that deserves just as much attention, especially for its exceptional organic produce. The early-1900s Queenslander-style house with sprawling verandahs, which overlook the kitchen’s prized vegetable patch, and the old barn converted for private parties impart

a homely feel. Add to that a cosy fireplace perfect for sitting in front of while cradling a hot chocolate or red wine in winter, an open-plan kitchen and staff who are as passionate about the food as the patrons, and it’s a mix made in culinary heaven. Next door, a charming delicatessen housed in an old cottage offers some the world’s best produce, so your fine-food foray can continue after you’ve digested an array of inventive dishes matched with some of the best Australian and European wines on offer.

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UNLEASHED BYRON BEACH CAFE

FROM WRITING AND MUSIC FESTIVALS, TO SELF-HELP AND HEALING EVENTS ... BYRON ATTRACTS PEOPLE IN THEIR DROVES WITH ITS COLOURFUL ARRAY OF THINGS TO DO.

THE LOWDOWN Stay Julians Byron Bay Beach Apartments

Byron Beach Cafe is the kind of laid-back, breezy café you might see on a Byron Bay postcard and say, “That’s where I want to be right now!” The dishes are a reflection of the surroundings: uncomplicated styling with an emphasis on local produce and great taste. Indulge in oysters and a glass of bubbles (in fact, it’s a local rite of passage) in a relaxed, fun environment. Check out top local produce over breakfast, lunch or dinner, including the famed Bangalow Pork, Byron Bay seafood, Plateau Prestige free-range eggs, Byron Bay Coffee, Brookfarm Muesli and Byron Bay Cookies.

Opposite Clarkes Beach, Julians offers stylish, four-star luxury accommodation in a peaceful block of apartments a short walk to cafes, restaurants and bars. Modern, airy, and with balconies or enclosed courtyards, the rooms are made for relaxing. juliansbyronbay.com

Byron at Byron

Stylish, award-winning architecture meets tranquillity and relaxed luxury in a sub tropical rainforest setting. Onsite by the 25-metre lap pool, The Byron Spa is an oasis of pampering that will add that special touch to any holiday. thebyronatbyron.com.au

IT’S ALL HAPPENING

Eat & drink Rae’s on Watego’s

One thing’s for sure: Byron wouldn’t be Byron if it wasn’t bursting with festivals and events year-round. This includes the hinterland beyond the township, which brings Bangalow, Ballina and Mullumbimby into the fold. From writing and music festivals, to self-help and healing events, to anything your wildest thoughts can conjure up, really, Byron attracts people in their droves with its colourful array of things to do. Yet, somehow, despite so much going on, it still manages to be as chilled as a lovely pinot gris on a hot summer’s day.

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Cooking with gas

Photographs in this article sourced from Cook Islands Tourisme

WORDS: MICHELLE HESPE

Their warrior ancestors’ taste for tourism was more a taste for tourists. But today, family, food and friendship is what life is all about in the Cook Islands. 56

September/October 2014


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ost Cook Islanders believe in one or another of the religions brought to them by the missionaries who first landed on the islands in 1821. The evangelists were determined to transform the warrior populace into civilised, church-going people … preferably one with a reduced appetite for human flesh. Christianity was the main religion to quickly uproot the animistic worship of gods and idols, but the good thing is the islanders didn’t let go of some things that have always been close to their hearts and are cornerstones of village life: music, family and food. Most Cook Islanders also consider themselves Polynesian, as the majority of their descendants arrived across the ocean from Tahiti. Later, Maori New Zealanders also crossed the Pacific to the Cook Islands. Central to Polynesian life is deep pride in the remarkable seafaring achievements of their explorer ancestors, who guided themselves into uncharted territory by the stars. Many Cook Islanders still believe the land and the sea should be revered – a continuation of the Indigenous tradition of taking care of the planet so it takes care of you. There were once gods assigned to the land and the sea, but today it is more about respect for Mother Nature, while Christ gets his due every Sunday. Applied to each side of the spiritual ledger, the music, singing and dancing that is in the blood of Cook Islanders has survived through it all. And you can experience that on the many tours offered on the islands today. One way to have fun, relax, indulge in local food and gain a valuable understanding of local history and the connection of Cook Islanders to the land and the water that surrounds them is to jump aboard a glass-bottom boat…

CRUISING FROM RARO

A buffed Adonis with tattooed superhero arms, who manages to look hot in a sarong and can play an instrument, sing, build shelter in a storm, fish, scale coconut palms and forage for food is enough to get most women on a boat to anywhere. And what if he’s also considerate and funny, offering up glasses of wine every time his boat moors at a deserted island? Sounds

THE DRUM BEATS ARE SO LOUD THAT THE VIBRATO TRAVELS THROUGH THE FLOORBOARDS AND REVERBERATES THROUGH THE GUESTS SEATED ON DINING CHAIRS. like a potential RSVP date for a very lucky lady, but it’s actually the average staff member of Koka Lagoon Cruises. The cruises depart from Muri Beach in Rarotonga (the mothership of the Cook Islands) and guests spend four hours exploring Muri Lagoon, snorkelling to their heart’s content or kicking back on board and enjoying the marine life show through the glass-bottom boat. The men on board throw everything (including themselves) into the entertainment, playing the ukulele, teaching guests to tie a sarong in a range of confusing ways, and weaving everything from sun hats to dinner plates and sunglasses out of palm leaves. After a barbecue seafood feast is dished up in a deserted island picnic area, one of the guys always throws in a coconut-tree-climbing show, getting up and down the trunk before the average person would have even hugged it in a lame attempt at climbing. It’s a dizzying spectacle followed immediately by a lesson in cracking open your own coconut straight from the tree. Two words: Not easy.

FIRE, FOOD AND FEATHERS

It’s pitch-black outside, except for the sparking wheels of fire turning at lightning speed in the hands of chanting warriors. The drum beats are so loud that the vibrato travels through the floorboards and reverberates through the guests seated on dining chairs. Women and men dressed only in straw skirts, coconut bras and an abundance of feathers have been dancing themselves into a frenzy, while around the river bend, where a tropical forest of palms and lush undergrowth obscures the view, come warrior men standing on a canoe, pushing through the water with long, heavy branches September/October 2014

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fashioned into spear-like oars. Following the canoe is a raft crowned by a beautiful woman wearing an outrageous display of colourful plumage – a feathered display like a peacock’s tail fanning in rapid movement around her bottom. The crowd is enchanted by the dexterity and fluidity of the performers. It’s mesmerising. Where the restaurant meets the river, people gather to take photos of the Te Vara Nui Village Overwater Cultural Show. More dancers join the stage, until it is difficult to decide which way to look, as every performer is executing hip-shaking moves in machine-gun-fire succession that borders on superhuman. Not a single watcher can take their eyes off the speedblurred backsides of the female dancers; at the dance’s crescendo, all that can be seen is a manic whirring of feathers.

PERFORMERS IN FULL SWING FOR THE TE VARA NUI VILLAGE OVERWATER CULTURAL SHOW

IT’S A NIGHT TO REMEMBER AND ONE THAT BRINGS TRAVELLERS AND ISLANDERS TOGETHER WITH TWO ATAVISTIC PLEASURES: FOOD AND DANCE.

MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDERS WITH STORYTELLERS ECO BIKE TOURS

While watching ‘The Legend of Tongaiti’ (a traditional tale of enduring love that unites two rival villages), the crowd dines on an endless buffet of tropical fruits, fresh seafood, chargrilled chicken, towering piles of beef and pork, and traditional staples such as coconut, rice and taro. It’s a night to remember and one that brings travellers and islanders together with two atavistic pleasures: food and dance.

ECO ADVENTURING

In the Cook Islands, land is handed down through family rather than purchased. This is one reason why it is largely underdeveloped, free of the usual five-star resorts that line many Pacific Islands beaches. Foreigners can buy a 60-year lease on Cook Islands land to live there or set up a company, and if an innovative businessperson comes along with a great idea that not only boosts tourism and connects visitors with the island way of life, then there’s a good chance it will have local support and flourish. One of the newest businesses in town is Storytellers Eco Bike Tours, which is run by an Australian, Dave Furnell, who gets you on a top-spec mountain bike and has you riding all over the island, through the jungle and into villages for an insightful saturation of local life. He might stop at a home with sprawling September/October 2014

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hideaway near lively Chaweng Beach

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A TRADTIONAL ISLAND FEAST IS ALL A PART OF THE DAY WITH KOKA LAGOON CRUISES

vegetable and fruit crops and teach you about the food that has been foraged for centuries, offering up noni juice (healthy, and beloved of Miranda Kerr, but with a taste like brussels sprouts broiled in the devil’s colon), or introduce you to a famous ukulele-maker in a tiny village. Dave works with the locals to ensure that his bike-riding explorers are getting the real deal, and the experience includes an ocean-side lunch concocted by a local chef who makes some of the best fish sangers (a popular meal in the Cook Islands) in the Pacific. Cycling through the jungle, plucking fresh passionfruit and papaya from the undergrowth, is just one of many reasons why this tour is not only a great way of combining fitness with adventure, but also a trip that allows visitors a small insight into how people live on the islands today.

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A PERFECT DAY ON AITUTAKI LAGOON WITH VAKA CRUISE

DAVE WORKS WITH THE LOCALS TO ENSURE THAT HIS BIKE-RIDING EXPLORERS ARE GETTING THE REAL DEAL.

BIG FOOT, LITTLE FOOT

Once upon a time on Aitutaki Island there was a poor fisherman with a son. Everyone in the fisherman’s village was banned from fishing in a special lagoon reserve because of a shortage of seafood – the chief wanted to ensure there was a breeding ground to restock the larder. But the poor fisherman’s family was starving, and so he took his son, defied the chief’s edict and fished in the reserved area to feed his family. With predictable results. Hardline chiefs in traditional stories do not muck about. Enraged, the chief sent warriors out to kill the fisherman. Knowing he was doomed, the fisherman decided to try to save his son. They paddled to Tapuaetai

A GUIDE ON THE PUNAREI VILLAGE CULTURAL TOUR

Island in the reserve, where he told his son to leg it across the sand and into the jungle. Then the fisherman ran after his son, being careful to step only in his son’s footprints so as to leave just one set. The fisherman lifted his son into a tree and told him to climb and hide there until nightfall. When the warriors came, they followed the footprints, found the fisherman and asked him if he was alone. He said he was. They killed him, but his son was saved, and with him, a future generation. Thus Tapuaetai Island is now called One Foot Island. Guests can also have their passport stamped on arrival because One Foot Island was once an international port on the old flying boat route across the Pacific from Auckland to Tahiti.

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THE UNSPOILT BEACHES AND JUNGLE TERRAIN OF RAROTONGA

LUXURY, SECLUSION AND STYLE AT TE VAKAROA VILLAS ON MURI BEACH

THE LOWDOWN Get there Air New Zealand has a direct service every Saturday evening from Sydney, which is just under six hours: airnewzealand.com.au There are frequent connections via Auckland. Air Rarotonga has 45-minute flights to Aitutaki or Atiu: airraro.com

Legends abound throughout the islands, and this is just one that guests aboard the Vaka Cruise, which departs Aitutaki Island, hear about during six hours of cruising, snorkelling and exploring the majestic lagoons and surrounding islands. The cruise also includes an island barbecue lunch of freshly caught ocean fish, complete with a full bar service. Check out the local beer, Matutu. It’s not a bad drop at all, and the wine, ladies, is served in glass, not plastic.

PUNAREI VILLAGE CULTURAL TOUR

The pit has been dug and the stones in the base of it are hot from the flames. Fish, chicken, beef and pork are carefully placed into the fire pit and then layers of coconut palm leaves and hibiscus bark is piled on top so that gradually the smoke dies down. Old blankets and a rubber mat are then dragged over the top of it all and more rocks are piled on top. The smoke disappears but the scent of the cooking meat is thick in the air. Lunch is on. The umukai (traditional fire-pit lunch) is one of the many fun elements of the Punarei Village Cultural Tour on the island of Aitutaki. The guides greet people on a hilltop above the ocean where a setting has been constructed to mirror traditional village conditions prior to the arrival of missionaries. It includes traditional houses and carvings. Guests are invited to make their own

plates from coconut tree leaves and are taken to an ancient site that was created by islanders long before Christianity changed their culture. “Back then, we were warriors!” shouts one of the guides. “We were proud people. Seafarers who worshipped the land and the ocean!” Tucking into the rough-and-ready – but divine – fire-pit meal cooked on and in land that is still as untouched and as beautiful as it must have been back then, it’s no wonder the Cook Islanders are a proud and happy lot. They know how to make the most out of life and the paradise they call home, their days and nights filled with dance, music, fishing, church, storytelling and quality family time, often spent in or on the water. All they’ve really stopped doing is eating ‘long pig’. Regular pig is much more tasty, and you run into less grief with the leftovers.

Stay Te Vakaroa Villas One of he most stylish and private places to stay in Rarotonga. The one and two bedroom villas overlook Muri Lagoon and share a stunning infinity pool. Surrounded by jungles of lush gardens, the villas are all about luxury, seclusion and relaxation. tevakaroavillas.com

Aitutaki Lagoon Resort and Spa This resort is positioned in one of the most beautiful places in The Cook Islands. Right on Aitutaki Lagoon, there are a range of room offerings including the new overwater bungalows. Priceless position. aitutakilagoonresort.com

Do Koka Lagoon Cruises

kokalagooncruises.com

Te Vara Nui Village Overwater Cultural Show tevaranui.co.ck

Storytellers Eco Bike Tours storytellers.co.ck

The Vaka Cruise

PARTY ON IN THE COOKS The Cook Islands has a more low-key rep when it comes to being one of Asia’s party islands – it ain’t no Kuta, that’s for sure. But if you’re after some big nights out, there‘s no shortage of hot haunts. If you’re after some dancing, drinking and fun with locals and other tourists (mainly Aussies and Kiwis) then jump aboard the Island Pub Crawl. It’s basically a party bus crammed with flashing lights and anyone who dares, that cruises around Rarotonga making pitstops (read: drink stops) at top nightlife hotspots. Rehab is the big club in town. If you’re out and about late, then it’s where to head for a dance and a big night. Just make sure you’re not catching one of the 1am flights out of the Cooks. Whatever Bar & Grill is also a top club, with live entertainment, loud music and hordes of locals and tourists to make sure everyone stays hot, happy and sweaty. 62

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thevakacruise.com

Aitutaki Punarei Village Cultural Tour aitutakiculture.com

More info

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ROCKS JOKES

HIGH JINKS Chortling above the cloud line

MEAT, MEAT, VEG

A blonde, a brunette and a redhead are on the run from the police when they dash into a barn to hide. The brunette hides behind a stall of cows, the redhead hides among the horses and the blonde hides behind bags full of potatoes. The police come in and shine their torches onto the cows. The brunette says “MOO!” and the police shine their lights on the horses. The redhead says “NEIGH!”, so the police move on to the potatoes. They The UK panel shine their lights on them and the show star sends, blonde says “POTATOES!”

er, ‘personalised’ birthday messages at stewartfrancis. com

WHO IS THIS RORSCHACH GUY, AND WHY DOES HE KEEP DRAWING PICTURES OF MY PARENTS HAVING SEX?

I saw a bank that said ‘24Hour Banking,’ but I don’t have that much time. STEVEN WRIGHT, US COMEDIAN

WISDOM OF HOMER

“Well, crying isn’t gonna bring him back, unless your tears smell like dog food. So you can either sit there crying and eating can after can of dog food until your tears smell enough like dog food to make your dog come back, or you can go out there and find your dog.” Homer Simpson

YESTERDAY, I ACCIDENTALLY SENT A PICTURE OF MY PRIVATES TO EVERYONE IN MY ADDRESS BOOK. NOT ONLY WAS IT EMBARRASSING, IT COST A FORTUNE IN STAMPS. 64

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ONE-LINERS FROM A GENUINE CANADIAN STEWART FRANCIS, COMEDIAN

“MY NEIGHBOUR’S IN THE GUINNESS BOOK OF RECORDS. HE’S HAD 44 CONCUSSIONS. HE LIVES VERY CLOSE TO ME. A STONE’S THROW AWAY, IN FACT.” “MY FATHER USED TO BEAT ME WITH A CAMERA. I STILL HAVE FLASHBACKS.” “MY PARENTS WERE MIXED RACE. MY FATHER PREFERRED THE 100 METRES. MY MUM WAS PAKISTANI.” “MY THERAPIST SAYS I HAVE A PREOCCUPATION WITH VENGEANCE ... WE’LL SEE ABOUT THAT.” “SO WHAT IF I CAN’T SPELL ARMAGEDDON, IT’S NOT THE END OF THE WORLD.”

FOWL PLAY A vulture boards a plane, takes his seat and almost immediately pulls a piece of rotting, maggot-filled roadkill from his bag. “Dear God,” says the flight steward, “you can’t go bringing that on here!” “Settle down,” says the vulture. “It’s just my carrion.”


WA&NT

CRACKIN’

KARIJINI OVER THE EDGE (AND HANGING FROM A LEDGE) IN THE PILBARA

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GREEN HEAVEN

ON THE ROAD

THE WEST’S BEST LINKS

NOT JUST FOR NOMADS

The royal and ancient game is alive and well in West Oz. One of the west’s best young guns, Curtis Luck, selects his favourite home-state golf courses…

… or, at least, not just for the grey, septuagenarian variety who eat biscuits in motorway lay-bys. Under-30s motorhome holidays are actually a thing.

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ROPE UP, STRIP DOWN AND PLUNGE IN.

Images: Tourism WA

Get active in remote Karijini National Park and you’ll discover one of Australia’s best landscapes.

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WORDS: BRIAN JOHNSTON

ROCK


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ROPED IN WITH WEST OZ ACTIVE ADVENTURE TOURS

THE LOOKOUT AT JOFFRE GORGE, KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK

here’s something a little undignified about hanging on a rope over a rock ledge, feet scrabbling for a toehold beneath. My safety helmet has been knocked sideways over one eye. Below me – way below me – is a foaming pool of frigid water pockmarked with red boulders. To my left, a waterfall shudders, stinging my eyes with spray. “Watch out! Those rocks are slippery!” shouts my guide, Alan, while I dangle and curse. My knees are grazed and my muscles are aching. We’ve walked into Hancock Gorge down rough-hewn steps and a metal ladder bolted to the cliff face. We’ve picked our way along the bottom of the gorge, scrambling over tumbled rocks and ankle-threatening pebbles and, at one point, wading through a pool with waters chilly enough to induce a heart attack. At Spider Walk, I had to squeeze my gut through a cleft in the ravine less than a metre wide. At some point, I reckon, what has come down must go up again – we face a slog back out of the bowels of the earth. Somehow, my facial muscles are still working. I have a grin on my face as wide as the bruises on my shins. Hancock Gorge is hard work, but it’s a magnificent challenge, too. I feel like pummelling my chest and yelling like Tarzan. And there’s a reward for all this effort. The rocks are splintered, battered orange and dramatic. The yawning canyon is a huge crack in a vast plain, its walls set on fire by the afternoon sun, grand and improbable as a landscape from a sci-fi flick. If I were 100 kilometres out of Sydney or Melbourne, this would be one of Australia’s most fabled landscapes. Instead, I have it to myself, apart from my guide, a few goannas and some birds. Hancock Gorge is one of a tangle of gorges in Karijini National Park – about

HANCOCK GORGE IS HARD WORK, BUT IT’S A MAGNIFICENT CHALLENGE, TOO. I FEEL LIKE PUMMELLING MY CHEST AND YELLING LIKE TARZAN. September/October 2014

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as ‘middle of nowhere’ as you can get, even for Western Australia. I drive 250 kilometres east from Nanutarra on the highway before the flat, spinifex-spotted plains crumple and suddenly produce Mt Bruce, the state’s second-highest peak at 1165 metres. The start of my adventure – just limbering up, you might say – is a hot five-hour hike to its summit and back. The track mostly follows the mountain ridge, rewarding me with views to eternity. In the distance I can see the scar of the Marandoo iron ore mine. Shortly after Tom Price (one-dog town, convenient petrol pump) I’m in Karijini, one of Western Australia’s largest national parks, where the Pilbara’s ‘plenty of nothing’ is offset by multicoloured gorges rich in marble, silica and iron. I set up camp at shady Dales Gorge, where there’s little more than a few gas barbecues and bush toilets. Next day it’s an easy three-hour walk to Fortescue Falls, the only permanent waterfall in Karijini, where dozens of other falls roar during the wet season. Like a slice of tropical Queensland misplaced in the barrenness of the Hamersley Ranges, Fortescue Falls’ pools are fringed by ferns and gum trees – it’s just the spot for a refreshing skinny-dip. All around, rocks are stacked like sculptures, and great red slabs lie tilted where they fell a million years ago. Next day, I up the ante at Weano Gorge. It’s actually the most accessible of the

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AERIAL VIEW OF WEANO GORGE, KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK

ALL AROUND, ROCKS ARE STACKED LIKE SCULPTURES, AND GREAT RED SLABS LIE TILTED WHERE THEY FELL A MILLION YEARS AGO. national park’s gorges, and the occasional English backpacker and Perth retiree walks along the bottom between stands of eucalyptus trees to Handrail Pool, where fern-lined waterfalls slide over ink-black and rust-red rock. This is where sensible folk cool down and turn back, but I’ve booked Alan again for the onward adventure. Hooked to safety lines, we traverse the canyon along narrow ledges to Weano Falls, where we abseil 40 metres to the very bottom of the gorge. It’s bowel-clenching and finger-aching, but the surroundings are slashed like a modern painting with bold colour. The Weano Falls ‘walk’ is classified as Class 6, the greatest degree of difficulty. Classes 1 to 3 can be conquered by anyone and shouldn’t be missed; the two-kilometre meander along the cliff

DID YOU KNOW? Upon his 1861 return to Perth, Francis Thomas Gregory, the first white guy to see Karijini, offhandedly reported finding “two to three million acres” of fine grazing land.


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JOFFRE GORGE LOOKOUT IS EXHILARATINGLY GRAND, WITH A CLIFF FACE CARVED LIKE AN AMPHITHEATRE AND GUSHING WATERFALLS AFTER RAIN.

HIKING THE JOFFRE GORGE TRAIL, KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK

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edge at Dales Gorge is a ripper at sunset. Anything more and you should be a serious hiker, or even have some rock climbing experience. Class 5 walks feature indistinct trails and rough terrain and require advanced outback knowledge; Class 6 trails need special permits. Don’t go without guides, and do prepare for pain. At Knox Gorge, I have to crawl through tunnels and occasionally swim with flotation devices. At one point I paddle through a twisting, turning chasm and I’m suddenly catapulted off a five-metre drop into a pool below. Then we abseil down another waterfall before reaching Red Gorge – shadowy and a bit eerie – from which we float on inner tubes to Junction Pool. In the afternoon we have to clamber up a sometimes rope-assisted path and back to base. But Knox is one of the most splendid gorges in Karijini National Park, banded with red and purple rock, and worth it. At the end of the week I relocate to Karijini’s only other camp site, at Joffre Gorge. It has a camp kitchen and showers, so it’s more popular than Dales Gorge but it lacks some of that getaway feel. It’s a good base to explore the surroundings, though. Joffre Gorge Lookout is exhilaratingly grand, with a cliff face carved like an amphitheatre and gushing waterfalls after rain. Getting down into the gorge itself provides you with dizzying looks upwards at the falling water. Awesome!


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N E E R G N E V A HE ATE IEST ST ST R D , T S LARGE STRALIA’S BE … S ’ D L R U R O THE W O SOME OF A EXPERT TOU T R E U IS HOM RSES. TAKE O RST OU SMITHU N GOLF C E B : S ORD W

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cotland is an odd place: a sort of boggy, soft-lit landscape of jagged Braveheart highlands, peaty moors and deep, monstercrammed lochs. It has very little in common with Western Australia, a state where sheep’s stomachs are neither delicacies nor musical instruments. And, yet, the Scots’ greatest gifts to the world are whisky and golf – both of which are beloved of our largest, manliest state. West Oz has more than 150 golf courses, from the shockingly verdant green-on-red oasis of the Kalgoorlie Golf Course, to the 119-year-old splendour of Royal Perth. It also boasts a rising crop of some of our best young golfers, such as Oliver Goss, 20, the only amateur golfer in the world to make the cut in the 2014 US Masters; young pro Brady Watt, 24, a former holder of the world’s number-one amateur ranking; and Curtis Luck, just 18, a former Cottesloe schoolboy and WA Amateur champ. It stands to reason that Western Australia should have its share of good golf courses, being that it’s the size of Spain, England, New Zealand, France, Italy and Japan combined. But how to choose? Curtis Luck spoke with ROCKS from the fairways of the US Amateur Championships in Brookline, Massachusetts, to give us his pick of his home state’s top eight.

1

LAKE KARRINYUP COUNTRY CLUB

Just 13 kilometres north of the Perth CBD, and home to the Perth International, Lake Karrinyup is the hilliest of Australia’s championship courses. Buffeted by constant (and, in summer, incredibly welcome) sea breezes, it’s marked by wide, eucalypt-lined fairways and holes that demand a range of shots to hit. “Personally, it’s my favourite course due to its toughness, great condition and diversity,” says Curtis. “I love the fact that when you play Karrinyup you need to be capable of playing so many different shots in order to score well. The 6th hole is one of the hardest par 4s in Australia, I think, if you’re teeing off the ‘blacks’. It’s a long hole that plays uphill and usually into the wind, and it has an undulating green that is well protected by bunkers. I’ve used a two-iron for my second shot many times.” North Beach Road, Karrinyup, lkcc.com.au LAKE KARRINYUP COUNTRY CLUB

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challenging and presents itself in great condition all year round,” says Curtis, Velcro-ing and un-Velcro-ing his driving glove. “Plus, it has one of my favourite holes in the state, which is the 6th. Many of the members call it the shortest par 5 in Australia … although it’s a par 4 and only 270 metres downhill!” Melvista Avenue, Nedlands nedlandsgolfclub.com.au

4

BUNBURY GOLF CLUB

2

COTTESLOE GOLF CLUB

ROYAL PERTH GOLF CLUB

Initially a nine-hole course, Cottesloe was conceived in 1928 and consummated in 1931 – in the teeth of the Great Depression – when volunteers used a horse-and-plough to carve a course into the scrub and sandhills. These days it’s a superbly groomed course of broad, sweeping fairways and quicksilver greens. “Cottesloe Golf Club is my home club – I’ve grown up playing there every day,” says Curtis. “I love it! It’s home, and it also has extremely kind and supportive members.” 173 Alfred Road, Swanbourne cottesloegc.com

3

NEDLANDS GOLF CLUB

BUNBURY GOLF CLUB

Scattered with red gums, tuarts and banksias, and with spectacular views of adjacent Matilda Bay, Nedlands punches above its weight. Surrounded by one of Perth’s poshest suburbs, the course is set among just 17 hectares. “Although it is only nine holes and is not a long golf course, it is surprisingly

Wedged between the Collie River and the Leschenault Estuary, the Clifton Park club was established after World War II; today it’s often ranked among the top 10 courses in the country. An excellent place to wind down if you’ve spent six years repelling the Axis forces. “I don’t play Bunbury very much but, in saying that, I look forward to going down and playing it every time,” says Curtis of the trip to the wine-rich Margaret River region. “It’s a very good design and a very nice walk.” Clifton Park, Bunbury bunburygolfclub.com.au

5

ROYAL PERTH GOLF CLUB

A challenging layout on thickly wooded parkland, grand old Royal Perth is the most storied course in the west. Despite that, it’s also been the most enthusiastic about embracing technology. The virtual tour on the club’s website lets you explore the course, as if by magical Google Maps hovercopter. “Royal Perth has some of the best greens I’ve ever putted on,” says Curtis. Although, he is biased. “I also like Royal Perth because I hold the course record due to shooting a sneaky 63 in the second round of the WA Amateur.” You might expect a stroke or two over that. Labouchere Road, South Perth rpgc.com.au

“I HOLD THE COURSE RECORD DUE TO SHOOTING A SNEAKY 63.” 78

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THE WESTERN AUSTRALIAN GOLF CLUB

7

THE WESTERN AUSTRALIAN GOLF CLUB

Barely eight kilometres from the CBD on the tree-lined slopes of Mt Yokine (taken from an Aboriginal word for wild dog), the WAGC has a splendid Tudor-style clubhouse with views to the city, the Darling Ranges and – even better if you’re a 12-year-old snorkelling for golf balls – a picturesque lake. It’s a rolling course, par 70, with some of the west’s most meticulous greenkeepers. “The WAGC is a course I always enjoy playing because of its undulation and its consistently great condition,” says Curtis. 60 Hayes Avenue, Yokine wagolfclub.com.au

THE WESTERN AUSTRALIAN GOLF CLUB

“YOUR BALL SEEMS TO GROW A PAIR OF LEGS AND RUN INTO THE POT BUNKERS.”

6

JOONDALUP COUNTRY CLUB

“Joondalup gets a high rating in my books, purely for the amazing sights and visual intimidation on the course,” says Curtis, stylishly half-wedging his glove into the back pocket of a snazzy pair of salmon plus-fours. Joondalup’s pair of nine-hole courses are called ‘The Lake’ and ‘The Quarry’. “The Quarry’s 4th hole is a great par 5 with a bunker near the green that’s 110 metres long … with a five-metre limestone face around it!” says Curtis. Country Club Boulevard, Connolly joondalupresort.com.au/golf

8

THE LINKS KENNEDY BAY

Forty minutes’ drive south of Perth, Port Kennedy’s 18 holes sit flush against the Indian Ocean – the calming blue of which you’ll do well to meditate on at a very tough course that punishes those who miss a fairway. Co-designed by Ian Baker-Finch, it’s a par 72 that references several classic British courses by design. “Port Kennedy is a great public course that offers a links-style golf experience with its coastal location … and horrific pot bunkers,” says Curtis. “No matter how well you hit some tee shots, your ball seems to grow a pair of legs and run into the pot bunkers, and sometimes all you can do is hit the ball out sideways. But if you play it on a nice day it’s great fun!” Lot 199 Port Kennedy Drive, Port Kennedy kennedybay.com.au

September/October 2014

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UNLEASHEDWA/NT


the w o l l o f and e i d l o r e ur inn rail through o y o t n i est ad t Tap m W o h n t y u e o r g lia’s S a r t s u A n INGER Wester EUR BA : FL

WORDS

o you think motorhoming is exclusively for the blue-rinse brigade? Think again. I’m a convert. And no-one’s more shocked than I am. Having been guilty of abusing 80km/h convoys of grey nomads while my turbocharged German sedan and I attempted to overtake, I felt it was time I put myself in the driver’s seat of a beluga-white, whale-size motorhome. Though I’m reluctant to admit it, the home-onwheels concept harboured strange appeal. So, despite the fact that my locks are still (naturally) blonde and I haven’t yet cashed in my super, I decided to embrace my inner granny on a weekend away. Granted, my other half is intrigued by my mode of transport; he loves camping and yearns for a break from driving, so he’s on board. A sneak peek into our future, perhaps. Bouncing along the highway together towards Margaret River, Western Australia, it becomes clear that migrating seniors drive slowly for a reason. Motorhomes are the elephants of the automobile world – they ain’t agile when taking bends. Heck, slowing down has to be considered long before you near the turn-off sign, and the need for sound spatial awareness is a must. The only apex that motorhome drivers are familiar with is their local Apex Club. Spectacles, thankfully, are optional, but given that I’m immersing us in the grey nomad scene, hitting the region’s wineries is not on the cards. Or, at least, not how I’d usually do it. Normally, if someone had said to me, “Hey, do you want to throw back some pensioner’s port, pop into the Lions Shed, ogle a bunch of jams and preserves and see the Southern Hemisphere’s largest shell museum?” I’d have hightailed it in the opposite direction. But – blow me down – my pursuit of life

September/October 2014

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UNLEASHEDWA/NT

TASTY WHITE CIABATTA LOAVES AT YALLINGUP WOODFIRED BREAD

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September/October 2014

JAMS AT THE BERRY FARM

MARGARET RIVER GOURMET ESCAPE This year, Western Australia’s most extravagant foodies’ weekend sees British celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal fly into the region of grapes, forests and surf for the second year in a row. From November 21–23, 2014, he and a stack of other food and wine personalities will give masterclasses, cook five-star dinners, share their thoughts on our food future, gush over hot ingredients and tip the upcoming trends. gourmetescape.com.au

Images: Fleur Bainger

in the slow lane will lead us to do all of those things. What’s more, we’re going to have a ball doing them. We start our self-imposed initiation into the blue-rinse brigade with a fuel stop of the gastronomic kind. The legend surrounding Yallingup Woodfired Bread has grown with each of the 10 years the bush bakery has been open. It’s tough to find – tiny signs bearing the red flame logo lead the way – so I employ a smidge of senior stubbornness and track it down. The family-run business still operates an honesty system. Freshly baked biodynamic bread is left on outdoor racks next to a tin of change and a note. “People come and grab the bread and leave their money,” says Phillip Bauer, a fourth-generation German breadmaker. “If they don’t have the right change, they come back later with it.” His staff bakes rye, sourdough and fruit loaves in volcanic stone ovens, but Phillip tells us the grey nomads covet the white wheat ciabatta, so I grab a loaf and make for nearby Cowaramup, or Cowtown, as the locals call it. They like cows. The main street has been transformed into an urban paddock dotted with 42 life-sized black-andwhite cow sculptures. It’s also home to a variety of providores, where the unfairly blessed Margaret River region’s many goods can be snaffled. Armed with cheese, dukkah and Bahen & Co salted almond chocolate, we’re good to go. All this motorhoming can be murder on a senior citizen’s waistline. We cruise through Margaret River township, destined for the region’s smallest winery and the home of Pensioners Port. Yes, it really is called that, and it is, indeed, made by retirees – those with a zest for life that leaves you wondering what’s really in their home brew.



UNLEASHEDWA/NT

When we arrive at Swallows Welcome, Tim Negus, a septuagenarian, is busy labelling bottles while his wife, Patricia, is putting the finishing touches to her latest book. She’s an illustrator, and her detailed images of native flowers, animals and birds cover every surface of her light-flooded studio. Over a bottle of Cape Mentelle, they decided to put in grapevines, she tells me. “But Tim only planted the grapes he likes to drink,” she laughs, “so I have to buy my own white.” Tim keeps his head down. I’ve never been keen on sweet wines, but I discover, to my surprise, that Tim’s vintage is deliciously digestible – and with his self-portrait on the label, how could I resist? I add a bottle to the motorhome pantry. Plenty of nomads park their boxy rides at nearby Big Valley Caravan Park, but we want to nudge the ocean, so we wend through the region’s tall trees to Prevelly. Grassy, shaded and only 150 metres from the beach, the caravan park is also a short walk to Sea Gardens Café Restaurant, where lazy motorhomers (like us) can dine on hoisin duck pizza, crispy skinned barramundi or steak-frites while the setting sun throws ribbons of rouge across the sky. All this motorhoming is murder on the arteries. The locale also facilitates a ‘morning constitutional’ stroll to another ocean-facing gem, White Elephant Beach Café (open spring to autumn), where the brollytopped tables are hot property at breakfast time. From there, it’s off to the popular Margaret River Lions Shed Garage Sale. Started by a bloke raising money for a local retirement home, the fortnightly Saturday jumble sale has evolved into a huge warehouse of donated goods, which a troupe of seniors sort and stack on weekdays, often with the help of curious drop-in nomads. “It can be a bit lonely, just the two of you,” says local Lions Club president Beryl Anderson, who heads north to Broome when the mercury dips. “People can

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September/October 2014

MARGARET RIVER’S RUGGED COASTLINE HARBOURS BEACHES WITH BARELY A FOOTPRINT


UNLEASHEDWA/NT

THE LOWDOWN

NATURAL SHELLS – THEY REALLY DO COME IN THESE HUES – FOUND AT THE BELLVIEW SHELL COLLECTION

come here and feel a sense of community.” They can also pick up cheap games, books and puzzles. But only on market day. Beryl is strict about that. By mid-morning we head to Chapman Pool, where Simon Peters from Margaret River Stand Up Paddle holds his daily aquatic meanders from November to April. The experience is ideal for mature travellers, he promises. “It’s great for your core body strength and easy on the knees,” he says, nodding at his mother, who is paddling her board on the mirror-flat water. “We take it fairly slow, it’s very relaxed.” The easy pace and tranquil scrub setting lead to an almost meditative state, with birdsong the only thing breaking the silence. The drive out of the national park is nearly as beautiful as the river itself, and by now I’ve mastered the pre-emptive turns required by the motorhome. I can gauge tree limb clearance without having to slow to a crawl, and I’m getting used to the wobbles caused by wind gusts hitting the motorhome’s significant surface area. My man agrees we’ve hit our grey nomad rhythm when we pull into the Bellview Shell Collection, which showcases 40,000 shells collected over 60 years. It’s a place I wouldn’t normally be caught dead in, but the colours, shapes and species impress me so much that I later rave about it – in interminable fogey style – to anyone who makes the mistake of stopping to listen. I may be less than half the age of the average nomad, but I tell you, I can see myself joining the slow coastal convoy already.

The writer’s motorhome was provided courtesy of Apollo Motorhome Holidays.

GET THERE Apollo Motorhome Holidays has a range of vehicle options. Pick-up is from 65 Worrell Avenue, High Wycombe, just west of Perth Airport. Margaret River is about three hours’ drive south of Perth. apollocamper.com/holiday

STAY Prevelly Caravan Park offers proximity to the ocean, a coastal walking track, surf breaks and cafés. The town of Margaret River is a 15-minute drive away. 99 Mitchell Drive, Prevelly Park 08 9757 2374 prevellycaravanpark.com.au

EAT & DRINK Yallingup Woodfired Bread Lot 7 McLachlan Road, Dunsborough 08 9756 6306 Swallows Welcome Winery & Art Studio 542 Wallis Road, East Witchcliffe 08 9757 6348 (appointment advised) Sea Gardens Café Restaurant Mitchell Drive, Prevelly 08 9757 3074 seagardens.com.au

White Elephant Beach Café Gnarabup Road, Gnarabup 08 9757 1990

whiteelephantcafe.com.au

DO Lions Shed Garage Sale Burton Road, Margaret River

margaretriver.wa.lions.org.au

Margaret River Stand Up Paddle 0419 959 053

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Bellview Shell Collection Bussell Highway, Witchcliffe 08 9757 6342 MORE INFO

margaretriver.com

September/October 2014

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insidemining Issue 16 – October 2014

20

WESTERN

DREAMS The state of mining in Western Australia

SAFER WORKPLACES Making the mining industry safer for workers

08

REAL WORKERS Automation is great but engineers are better

15

URANIUM BAN LIFTED Resources sector gets a boost thanks to uranium

27


windowseat

Š BHP Billiton

2


windowseat

Newman, WA THERE are four privately-owned railway lines in the Pilbara region of north-western WA. Two are owned by BHP Billiton, one by Rio Tinto and one by Fortescue Metals Group, and all are there for one reason alone: iron ore. BHP’s Mount Newman railway opened back in 1969, and runs from Newman to Port Hedland. The railway is the hardest working on the planet, with by far the longest and heaviest trains in operation. In June 2001, the Mount Newman railway set a new world record when a 7.3 kilometrelong train weighing in at a massive 99,734 tonnes made the 275-kilometre journey between Yandi and Port Hedland. Rio Tinto’s Hammersley and Robe River railway is the region’s largest network. Indeed, with a total length of 1,300 kilometres, the network is in fact the largest privately-owned heavy freight rail network operating in Australia.

In June 2001, the Mount Newman railway set a new world record.

3


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news+views GRAND REOPENING

RIGHT THIS WAY, MR PRESIDENT Mining equipment company Vermeer Corporation has announced that Jason Andringa will become president and CEO of the company in November next year, succeeding the current CEO

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The Goondicum mineral sands mine located in Monto, Queensland will be reopening in March next year, Melior Resources announced recently. After the mine closed down in June last year as a result of declining ilmenite prices and issues with care and maintenance, 35 jobs were lost. With the reopening of the mine next year, 50 jobs will be created, bringing the number of onsite jobs to a total of 80 personnel and helping to reverse the downtrend experienced by the town of Monto following to the closure. With regard to the re-opening, Melior CEO Mark McCauley was positive. “We are excited to commence the restart of the Goondicum mine; it is a substantial milestone for Melior and will position the company as a significant low-cost producer of ilmenite,” he said. Melior Resources bought out previous owner of the Goondicum mine, Belridge Enterprises, under the condition that Melior invested around $15 million to restart the stunted operation. Upgrade works implemented at the defunct site include the instillation of additional equipment to boost recovery, improvements to increase throughput at the processing plant by 50 per cent to around 2.8 million tonnes per annum, and the construction of a new access road to the mine that will drastically reduce the haulage distance from the mine to port by around 35 per cent, or the equivalent of 100 kilometres.

Compiled by Toby Little

and Jason’s mother Mary Andringa. As Jason Andringa moves into the role of CEO, Mary Andringa will take over the role of chair of the board. “I am honoured to have the opportunity to lead Vermeer, as a family-owned and -operated global company,” said Jason. Company founder Gary Vermeer is the father of current CEO Mary Andringa, making Jason Andringa the third generation of the

Vermeer family to run the company. “I look forward to working closely with Jason [Andringa] this coming year to prepare him for the transition to CEO in November 2015,” said Mary Andringa. Current chairman of the board Bob Vermeer will assume the role of chair emeritus from November 1 this year. Vermeer provides the mining industry with construction equipment for projects 5


news+views

such as energy pipelines, utilities, sewers, geothermal power and high-speed communications lines.

COAL SHOULDER A paper released recently by Ross Garnaut, a professorial research fellow in economics at The University of Melbourne, suggests that over the next decade, China will utilise alternative sources of thermal power, such as gas and biomass. Garnaut forecasts that the energy produced by biomass in China will increase by around 80 per cent, and energy from gas will almost quadruple in the 10-year period. At the same time, he predicts China’s consumption of

coal-powered energy to decline to 1808 megatonnes in 2020, down from a 2013 figure of 1826 megatonnes. “China’s leaders are aware that China shares with Australia and all the other countries in the Asia-Pacific region an interest in avoiding the international political instability that would emerge from the impact of unmitigated climate change,” Garnaut says. Chief executive of the Queensland Resource Council (QRC) Michael Roche disagrees with Garnaut and believes China’s global climate awareness is detrimental for coal producers. “Professor Garnaut is correct in observing renewable energy is on the rise,” Roche says, “but the

Advertorial

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT At the University of Queensland’s Gatton campus, drones are being used in teaching, research and local farming projects. Fitted with visual, multispectral and thermal imaging cameras, the drones are used for work on rabbit control, beneficial insect drops to reduce pesticide use, crop quality analysis, and weed detection. Increasingly, drones are also being used in the mining sector for mapping and surveying in remote regions around Australia. For more information about uses and training in drone technology, visit uq.edu.au/agriculture

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undisputed fact is coal produces more than 40 per cent of the world’s electricity and is forecast to overtake oil as the globe’s largest source of primary energy.” Garnaut begs to differ, citing China’s stated commitment to put greenhouse gas emissions into its future economic equation. “The damaging effects of carbon pollution on health and longevity became more important in public discussion,” he says. “China … made strong commitments to change the relationship between economic growth and greenhouse gas emissions.” This, says Garnaut, is the driving force for the decline in coal demand that he’s predicting will occur over the next six years.

KEEP ON TRUCKING Komatsu Australia has announced the release of a new AC -drive version of its 181-tonne, 730E-8 mine truck, with the company claiming that the new vehicle provides exponential haul speeds and is easier to maintain. The 730E-8 is powered by a Tier 4 compliant 1492-kilowatt engine and has an estimated payload of 181 metric tons. The top speed of the 730E-8 is 64 kilometres an hour, 15 per cent higher than that of its predecessor, and it can handle effective gradients of up to 12 per cent, enabling higher productivity. According to Komatsu Australia’s national product manager Michael Hall, “Our 730E DC truck has delivered 90 to 94 per cent availability to mines around the world, over hundreds of thousands of operating hours. “In comparison, the industry average for this class of truck is well down in the 80 per cent range.” The basic, ultra-tough design of the 730E means maintenance and upkeep of the truck is more efficient and costeffective. “The simplicity of its design makes it easier to train service technicians and complete regular maintenance tasks, with fewer hoses, bearings, pumps and wear components than most other mining trucks,” says Hall. Advanced monitoring equipment is incorporated and has even made its way into the truck’s cab.


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forefront

LEARNING FROM THE PAST WHILE THE MINING INDUSTRY IS REELING FROM WORKERS’ DEATHS AND SAFETY INCIDENTS THIS YEAR, INSIDE MINING LOOKS AT HOW WE CAN ENSURE THAT WORKERS ARE SAFE. WORDS: KRIS MADDEN

I

n the first seven months of this year, 11 Australian mining workers died while on the job. That’s more than double the fatalities than for the same period last year. Australia is an international leader in safety research and technologies, leading the way in virtual reality training facilities, mining software and innovation. So why have the figures increased so dramatically? What precautions are being taken at personal and management levels to ensure a safe working environment for miners? Mark Parcell, a spokesperson for the Mine Safety Institute of Australia (MSIA), said that MSIA believes every accident and incident is preventable but the industry is failing to learn from past experience. “We share the vision of an industry free from injury and illness, and are part of the road to Zero Harm. But it’s a tragedy that history is often repeated and the lessons from previous accidents and

8

disasters seem to be forgotten or ignored,” Parcell told Inside Mining. “The problem is essentially one of inadequate communication of information about past accidents. Those involved on the first occasion move on or forget, and the organisation itself has no corporate memory. Ways to improve the corporate memory involve the systematic reanalysis of old accidents and communication of the lessons to all concerned,” he said. “We believe the industry should support, and be supported by, a well-established and developing body of technical literature and technology transfer capability. The Mine Accidents and Disasters website [mineaccidents.com.au] aims to perpetuate this philosophy to make past lessons more readily available to the mine workers and managers of today and tomorrow.” The Royal Commission report on the Pike River Coal Mine Tragedy dedicated a whole chapter to


forefront

Fast facts: • Over the five years from 2007–08 to 2011–12, 36 mining workers died from work-related injuries. That’s 3.84 fatalities per 100,000 workers, which is almost 70% higher than the national rate of 2.29.

9


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forefront

Fast facts: • As at July 14, 2014, 11 mining workers have died at work this year, compared with a total of 10 workers’ deaths in the mining industry in 2013.

“The past few months have been extremely challenging for the Australian mining industry, with a spike in incidents and fatalities.”

11

the concept of failure to learn. The report noted the extent to which the themes identified by inquiries into previous tragedies were repeated at Pike River. “History demonstrates that lessons learnt from past tragedies do not automatically translate into better health and safety practice for the future. Institutional memory dims over time. We need not experience another mine accident or disaster to remind us that we must observe the lessons of the past,” Parcell said. “As much as we have improved mine safety, we have not achieved our goal. An industry free of injury and illness is still a vision and not a reality. The lessons of the past will assist us to achieve that vision.” Speaking at the NSW Minerals Council’s Health & Safety Conference in May this year, NSW Minerals Council CEO Stephen Galilee said the need to focus on safety in the New South Wales mining industry has been tragically driven home in recent months. The conference theme was ‘Learning from the past for a safer future’. “The past few months have been extremely challenging for the Australian mining industry, with

a spike in incidents and fatalities. While the New South Wales mining industry is known for its strong safety record, the reality is our miners face hazards every day while they do their important work. Recent incidents are a tragic reminder of why safety is, and must always be, our number-one priority,” he said. “Our number-one goal is to achieve Zero Harm at every New South Wales mine site, through continuous improvement and innovation, high-level training and advanced work practices and technology. The theme of the conference was all about learning from the past for a safer future so we can help to ensure those events are never repeated.” Unfortunately, the coalmining industry was rocked by yet another on-site fatality just as the Health & Safety Conference concluded. Construction, Forestry, Mining and Energy Union (CFMEU) general secretary Andrew Vickers said the recent coalmining accidents in New South Wales and Queensland highlight the dangers of working in the mining industry and the need to maintain vigilance regarding safety. 11


forefront

“Improving the safety and health performance of the New South Wales mining industry is a priority for the state government,” he said.

Training now starts before most new workers even set foot on a mine site. “The role of the NSW Department of Primary Industries’ Mine Safety program is to provide the framework and direction to industry to promote best practice in the area of mine safety. Mine

Safety has a strategic approach to achieve the government’s aim of zero fatalities and serious injuries in the mining industry.” Equally important is the preventative role of preparing and training workers to operate safely. Training now starts before most new workers even set foot on a mine site and continues throughout their mining careers. But according to Coal Services managing director Lucy Flemming, it’s not just about safety. The health of miners is just as important, which means addressing issues such as fatigue and mental health positively. “Health and safety are interrelated and both require effective management to ensure the wellbeing of people in the industry. Through the Mine Safety Advisory Council, we’ve helped to create and implement practical resources for miners in New South Wales, including a campaign to encourage a culture of ‘looking out for one another’ at work,” says Flemming. “Everyone has a personal responsibility for the safety and health of themselves and others. The focus on getting our workers home safe to their families every day is everyone’s responsibility – one that we should all take very seriously.”

BIG ISSUE ON THE SMALL SCREEN Ally Aitken knows the importance of safety training in the mining industry. Having worked at an open-cut mine in Clermont, the Rockhampton woman has been through countless safety inductions. When asked to be part of a series of new induction and safety videos for Indigenous audiences in Queensland, she didn’t have to think twice. Jeff McIlroy, a director at Back on Track, which produced the videos, said he believed the initiative was the first of its kind in Australia. He said it was hard for Indigenous work crews to relate to current induction videos, but with a dash of humour and young Indigenous characters, the films could give young Indigenous people a taste of real workplace situations. “Humour is a great vehicle for getting a message across,” he said, “and the overall message is workplace health and safety means everyone goes home happy.”

12


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MAN AND MACHINE

THERE IS A LOT OF TALK IN THE MINING INDUSTRY ABOUT AUTOMATION. INSIDE MINING LOOKS AT THE IMPORTANCE OF PEOPLE OVER AUTOMATION – ESPECIALLY IN RELATION TO ENGINEERING. WORDS: KRIS MADDEN

Engineers

are involved in all phases of mining operations – from exploration and discovery to feasibility studies, mine design, planning and production, scheduling, financial management and even marketing. With the focus on greater automation in the mining industry, what does the future role of the mining engineer look like? Douglas Abreu, technical services manager Asia Pacific at Devex Mining, developers of the SmartMine automation technology, says automation and technology alone mean nothing. “It’s a combination of people plus process plus technology,” he says. “The hardest job today is to keep this balance. Automation may cut some jobs on the field but those people and their knowledge and experience are needed in other roles.” Abreu adds that miners must also develop their people if they need them operating and supervising machines remotely and maintaining the whole process. “The problem is that it takes decades to prepare people,” he explains. “So the mines

concerned about the future should be thinking about a program for people in 10 or 20 years’ time. While there is a large-scale and rapid uptake of automation, the human factors and skilling of staff to support this automation hasn’t progressed at the same pace.” New skills are required to support these technologies. An automation skills shortage, in which there are insufficient workers with the required technical knowledge and abilities to support current and future workforce requirements, is foreseen as a significant obstacle to the uptake of automation technologies. Brad Thorp, manager of recruitment operations at Mining People International, says that currently, the main areas of skill shortage in the mining industry are in the mine-planning disciplines and geotechnical areas. “We have not seen a significant change in hiring trends due to the increasing use of autonomous technology,” he says. “It is still

15


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only a relatively small part of the Australian mining industry, so the impact has not yet been felt; however, we do expect to see changes coming, with the demand shifting to fewer but more highly skilled individuals. “From an Australian perspective, we feel the skills shortage for high-quality, technically trained people is still a very real issue for companies to deal with.” The organisational aspects of mining, such as structure, leadership, policy, culture, careers and workers, are critical to achieving a smarter mining enterprise in the future. Mining companies today find themselves with an ageing workforce and issues in attracting and retaining new, top-quality workers and leaders. According to IBM’s Envisioning the Future of Mining report, the number of upcoming retirees in the mining industry makes the situation more difficult still. The report states that newer employees, mainly from Gen X, Gen Y and the ‘Millennial’ generation, have different attitudes and expectations regarding work. Even when the next generation comes on board, transferring the knowledge locked in the minds of the incumbent workforce will be challenging.

Fast fact The occupational profile of the mining industry shows that, in terms of highly skilled occupations, the sector requires relatively large numbers of engineers, mining

“We feel the skills shortage for high-quality, technically trained people is still a very real issue for companies to deal with.”

professionals and engineering trades workers. Shortages have been widespread and persistent in a number of these occupations over the past few years.

The management and transfer of knowledge gain even more importance as operations become more about information and insight, and less about the intuition and ‘gut feelings’ of seasoned experts. Zimi Meka, chief executive and managing director of Ausenco, and recently named one of Australia’s top 100 most influential engineers, says clarity on goals, expectations and accountabilities are essential if managers are to get good performances from people and organisations.

17


industryfocus

Fast fact The mining industry employs a significantly higher proportion of workers aged between 25 and 44 years than the all industries average, with more than half the workers in mining (56.7 per cent) falling into this age group.

“For the mining industry to fully adopt automation, human factor challenges must be explored and understood,” he says. “Strategies that include a change management framework also need to be put in place to address the impact automation will have on improved safety, working conditions and upskilling opportunities of the workforce.”

New areas of specialisation Today, the challenges of mining are greater than ever before. New high-tech methods are being designed to make tomorrow’s mines more productive, safer and more economically successful. Mining engineers are seeking ways to extract essential raw materials while causing as little disturbance to the environment as possible, and zero or minimal pollution, as well as ways to reclaim land that’s been mined in the past. Because engineers cross all areas of the mining operation, upcoming mining engineers are required to have a broad education that incorporates many disciplines, including geology, civil and mechanical

engineering, metallurgy, commerce, economics, management, law and information technology. Mining engineering university undergraduate courses now include modules in mine production and management; corporate management, financial analysis and merchant banking; computer software development and automation; mine design; geotechnics; environment; and government policy formulation, legislation and administration. Technology, smarter operations and increased regulation are stoking the fires of these changes, fuelled by the pursuit of cost savings and enhanced productivity and safety. In such a dynamic industry, the challenge is to keep up. Smartphones, tablet computers, real-time monitoring and GPS and satellite technology have advanced a long way, even in the past year, in terms of their applicability and reliability in a mining environment. One thing is certain: flexibility and constant change will be the mantra of the mining engineers of the future.

Technology, smarter operations and increased regulation are stoking the fires of these changes, fuelled by the pursuit of cost savings and enhanced productivity and safety.

18


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HOW THE WEST IS WINNING Minerals boss is encouraged by incentives for exploration and calls for regulatory burdens to be eased. WORDS: DARRELL CROKER

I

n July this year, Prime Minister Tony Abbott and his Japanese counterpart Shinzo Abe visited a shrine of sorts. With formalities finished in Canberra, the pair headed to Western Australia’s Pilbara region – more specifically, to the West Angelas iron-ore mine halfway between Newman and Tom Price. West Angelas is part of a joint venture between Rio Tinto (53 per cent), Mitsui (33 per cent) and the Nippon Steel & Sumitomo Metal Corporation (14 per cent). Roy Tommy, a respected elder from the local Indigenous Yinhawangka people and a Rio Tinto employee, led a ‘Welcome to Country’ ceremony for the delegation. Currently, the mine is being expanded, at a cost of $640 million, from its present capacity of 29 million to 35 million tonnes of iron ore per year. Japan is Western Australia’s secondlargest export market. Iron ore aside,

three-quarters of the state’s liquefied natural gas (LNG) finds its way there. But admiration for Western Australian mining is not confined to the Land of the Rising Sun. The world at large looks to the state as a leader in many aspects of the industry. The supply chain developed throughout the Pilbara is the world’s best in terms of scale, efficiency and sophistication. Western Australia was also the first to adopt automation and other technologies on a large scale. Mr Abbott and Mr Abe saw this firsthand when they inspected Rio Tinto’s next-generation technology mining equipment, including an autonomous haul truck and drill that form part of the company’s Mine of the Future program. The know-how and intellectual property in Western Australia’s mining industry is second to none and the state’s companies and staff take it around the globe. Engineers, geologists and others

who have honed their skills in Western Australia can be found in far-flung locales from Mongolia to Bolivia. Activity in the Pilbara is instructive. Rio Tinto operates 15 mines in the region, a 1600-kilometre rail network, four port terminals and two power stations. Its operations have reached a run rate of 290 million tonnes a year, with a low-cost expansion pathway in place to move to 360 million tonnes a year. Iron ore production is surging in the Pilbara. The prime ministerial delegation took place on Wednesday, July 9. One month before, a new tonnage record for the largest departure of iron ore on a single tide had been set when one million tonnes left Port Hedland. The new benchmark of 1,270,721 tonnes was achieved with seven capesize vessels departing on Saturday, June 7. The port, Australia’s biggest for iron ore, increased exports by 3.55 per cent between April and May, setting a

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monthly record of 36 million tonnes. The nation’s three largest iron-ore miners, Rio Tinto, Fortescue Metals Group and BHP Billiton, have all added extra tonnage to their businesses. In mid-July, Fortescue published aggressive production guidance for the 2015 financial year, saying it could produce as much as 160 million tonnes. The guidance was backed up by a strong June quarter during which Fortescue mined a massive 43.8 million tonnes. In 2015, Fortescue will spend $1.39 billion on capital projects, including a wharf at Port Hedland. The company announced in June that it would buy four new, extra-large ore-carrying vessels. Chief financial officer Stephen Pearce said the ships would create efficiencies while loading iron ore at Port Hedland. In the year to date, BHP Billiton has smashed iron-ore production expectations, reporting record output from its mines in the Pilbara region. Its share of Western Australian iron ore production rose 19 per cent from the first quarter of 2014 to 56.64 million tonnes in the three months to June 30. Increases have resulted from an efficiency campaign at Port Hedland, and the company’s iron-ore president Jimmy Wilson says, “We haven’t finished squeezing the lemon on the inner harbour.’’ BHP says it plans to produce 245 million tonnes this financial year. The surge in ore exports is not expected to end any time soon. Exporters are ‘seeing red’ in a good way – but it’s not just ore that colours Western Australia’s world: yellowcake and gold have seemingly bright futures, too. And nickel aspirant Sirius Resources has made another promising discovery near the Fraser Range, between the famous goldfields of Kalgoorlie and the Southern Ocean at Esperance.

All sectors aligned with mining Mining has underpinned the Western Australian economy for well over 100 years. When mining falters, the state shudders. Recessions occur in the west that are unknown ‘over east’ and Western Australia does not always react to the economic fluctuations afflicting the rest of the country. A coffee-shop owner on St George’s Terrace, Perth, says his business fortunes are closely aligned with those of the miners and mining service providers. It’s the same for restaurants, hotels, travel agents, car yards, retailers and, of course, boat dealers.

Significant port, rail, airport, road, water, power and gas infrastructure has been constructed to support the mining industry. As a result, many towns and some small cities owe their existence – or at least their major development – to mining. Reg Howard-Smith, chief executive of The Chamber of Minerals and Energy of Western Australia (CME), says the benefits of having a strong and prosperous resources sector are clear. “The vital contribution of the resources sector was highlighted in this year’s state budget, with royalty income forecast to account for more than 25 per cent of the government’s revenue

Mining has underpinned the Western Australian economy for well over 100 years. When mining falters, the state shudders.

Above: Iron ore, Port Hedland.

23


miningreview

Above: A nickel mine in the Fraser Range.

in 2017–18, up from five per cent in 2003–04,” he says. “With the state government’s mineral royalties rates analysis under way, CME is working on behalf of the industry to ensure the government fully appreciates the challenges and issues facing the sector. Any attempt to impose additional costs and charges or royalty increases onto the resources sector will jeopardise future investment, employment and growth in Western Australia. “As we have witnessed firsthand, increases imposed on marginal operations can lead to job losses, bring forward mine closures, stifle regional communities that are reliant on mining and significantly weaken the state economy. There is no case for any increase in royalties.” Mr Howard-Smith says that notwithstanding the transition underway in many major projects from construction to operational phase, the future pipeline of projects relies upon increasing the current level of exploration activity. Programs such as the Western Australian Government’s Exploration Incentive Scheme and the federal government’s proposed Exploration Development Incentive are welcomed by the resources sector and have the potential to deliver a significant return to boost the exploration sector. “It is pleasing that both state and federal governments recognise the

24

importance of the exploration sector and the challenging environment faced by many companies,” says Mr Howard-Smith. “CME continues to encourage both the state and federal governments to focus on improving economic growth through policies to address the cost of doing business, reduce the regulatory burden and improve productivity. The recent abolition of the carbon tax was a step in the right direction.” Still, there are other challenges. In Australia, wages are among the highest anywhere, which is a barrier to

international mining operations keen to use Western Australian expertise. This is exacerbated by the high Australian dollar. And the cost of fly-in fly-out workers, including their accommodation, catering and the additional staff required to cover the full roster, makes the state one of the world’s highest-cost mining regions. But given Western Australia’s position as, arguably, the pre-eminent mining province on the planet, it is incumbent upon all Australians to recognise its standing, celebrate its success and nurture its future.

“Increases imposed on marginal operations can lead to job losses and bring forward mine closures.”


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A NEW BOOM LOOMS JUST WHEN SOME PUNDITS THOUGHT THE MINING BOOM WAS ALL BUT OVER, ALONG COMES URANIUM AND THE REVELATION THAT AUSTRALIA BOASTS THE WORLD’S LARGEST REASONABLY ASSURED RESOURCES OF THE ELEMENT. WORDS: CHRISTINE RETSCHLAG

PUNS ASIDE, Australia’s resources sector could be forgiven for glowing again, following the Queensland Government’s recent lift on banning uranium mining. Australia holds almost one-third of the global total of uranium resources and is the world’s third-largest producer of uranium after Kazakhstan and Canada, but this could change following Queensland’s regulatory lift on mining the silvery metal. The Northern Territory and South Australia are the only other states or territories with

active uranium mines. Western Australia lifted its ban in 2008 but projects are believed to be on hold until global prices for the resource improve. So what does the future of Australia’s mining industry look like with Queensland back on the market? The history books will show that in Queensland, uranium mining ended in 1982 and has been prohibited since 1989 – which some commentators view as a great shame, given that Queensland has a resource potential of 165.95

million tonnes, according to state government statistics. But do all these facts and figures mean that another mining boom is just around the corner? Mount Isa Mayor Tony McGrady, a former Queensland Minister for Mines and Energy, believes the state could be on the brink of something big. And he should know – the far north-western Queensland area is one of the prime sites for known uranium deposits, as is the neighbouring Gulf of Carpentaria. McGrady told Inside Mining that each uranium mine will attract

27


specialreport

Fast facts • Australian uranium is exported for peaceful purposes only, not military applications. • Exports are currently permitted only to countries that comply with the Treaty on the Non-Proliferation of Nuclear Weapons and allow full inspections by the International Atomic Energy Agency.

about 300 new construction jobs and another 300 in operation. “You have a commodity and resource in the ground which, in normal times – and it has not been normal times with the ban – the rest of the world wants. Here in Queensland we had it almost in abundance and the other states were laughing all the way to the bank,” he says. “In places like this, where job opportunities are few and far between, no government should be allowed to impose a ban [on anything] that will provide employment, training and education opportunities, particularly in regions with high Indigenous populations. “When I was in Brisbane the other week, I expected there would be a lot of opposition and I was taken aback by the amount of support the concept had. There was an understanding for the need to mine uranium and the benefits it would bring to the state’s economy.” Even McGrady concedes that the issue is not without its controversies, but says that if people want base power, it has to come from gas, coal or nuclear sources. 28

“There are many countries around the world that rely on nuclear energy and we should sell it. You can’t have a monopoly on coal. This doesn’t mean coal power stations are going to be shut down because uranium is on the market,” he says. Given that there has been a ban on exploring the resource, McGrady believes there are undiscovered deposits around the state, including near Townsville and in south-east Queensland, which could lead to other mineral finds. “This could be the start of the second mining bonanza in Queensland,” he says. “For many years Queensland rode on [the sheep’s back] and [it] is now riding on the back of coal trucks. If we can find something else that the world wants, my view is that we sell it.” Reg Howard-Smith, chief executive of the Chamber of

Minerals and Energy of Western Australia, told Inside Mining that Western Australia has the opportunity to benefit from strong long-term international demand for uranium for power generation from China, India and several European countries. “Western Australia is very well positioned to become a significant player in the global uranium industry. According to the Department of Mines and Petroleum, Western Australia has known resources in excess of 201,000 tonnes of uranium oxide across many potential projects,” Howard-Smith says. “Like the mining of other energy and mineral commodities in Western Australia, the mining of uranium will be subject to strict safety, environmental and security regulations.

“WA is well positioned to become a significant player in the global uranium industry.”


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Fast fact • Uranium is a high-density, weakly radioactive metal used as fuel in nuclear reactors for electricity generation. It is also used to make radioisotopes for medical applications; in nuclear science research; and in the munitions industry as armour-piercing shells. “The Western Australian resources sector is in transition from a construction phase to a production phase, particularly for our bulk commodities such as iron ore and liquefied natural gas [LNG]. The production phase is when we see royalties delivered to governments and returns to shareholders.” Deputy chief executive of the Queensland Resources Council Greg Lane told Inside Mining that it was not in the state’s interests to maintain a “1970s-style ban on uranium mining”. It would now resume mining, with the

“considerable advantage” that the work undertaken will be delivering a world-leading framework for sustainable development that can be adopted by other states and territories. “Regardless of commodity, mining is a high-cost proposition in Australia, and across the board global energy demand is subdued. Queensland’s global competitiveness is the dealmaker or breaker,” Lane says. “In the longer term, the International Energy Agency expects global demand for electricity to grow more than 70 per cent by 2035, with more than half of this growth from China and India. “Uranium exports from Australia are supported historically by longterm contracts from nuclear power generators, so the evolution of the energy mix (that is, coal, gas, nuclear and renewables) will play a key role in determining the future for a Queensland uranium industry.” And the future of Australia’s mining industry doesn’t rest solely on uranium. Lane says there’s “mounting excitement” about the first exports of LNG from Gladstone,

Queensland, now just months away. “There is subdued demand for many Queensland minerals and energy resources at present, but this is hardly new territory for our members,” he says. “Naturally, they are placing strong emphasis on emerging from the other side of this downturn as globally competitive. “Asia wants what we produce. Demand has moderated, not evaporated. We have high expectations for the suite of Queensland minerals and energy exports to keep meeting global demand, with appropriate attention to the fundamentals.” In south-west Queensland, Maranoa Mayor Robert Loughnan told Inside Mining that while things have slowed in the Surat Basin’s accommodation sector, Roma Airport statistics tell a different story, with a record 307,000 passengers for the 2013–14 financial year. “The outlook for Maranoa remains very strong, with much of the CSG [coal seam gas] drilling and associated work increasingly focusing on this area,” he says.

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FIFO MAN

WHEN LUKE BAKER PUT UP A FACEBOOK PAGE TO HELP FELLOW MINERS DEAL WITH ISSUES AFFECTING FLY-IN FLY-OUT WORKERS, HE DIDN’T ANTICIPATE THE IMPACT IT WOULD HAVE.

WORDS: CHRISTINE RETSCHLAG

THE STORY READS like a superhero cartoon. On the clock he’s a mild-mannered miner; off it, he’s a Facebook phenomenon. Meet Luke Baker, or ‘FIFO man’, as he’s also known to fellow fly-in fly-out workers around the world. Even Luke, 31, a communications technician who does 3:1 swings on sites in Roma and Moranbah, hasn’t quite got his head around the Clark Kent response he’s received since he stepped into the proverbial phone booth known as social media several months ago. “I’d done FIFO in the past, but I took a break and moved to Moranbah for a few years. Six months ago I got back on the FIFO bus; my life changed and I needed to be closer to my new

partner in Bundaberg,” Luke says. “You have a lot of time sitting around airports and thinking. I was on the way to Roma one day, looking out at the clouds, and I wondered if anyone was interested in hearing my thoughts. I had no idea what would happen; I just thought I’d put my thoughts into words. At the time I didn’t think much more about it, and then it all took off,” he recalls. Luke says his Facebook site, ‘FIFO man’, initially attracted 200 visitors. This increased to 300 before he went to sleep that night and was up to 500 followers by next morning. At the time of going to print, ‘FIFO man’ had more than 12,000 followers. In terms of mining explosions, this was a real beauty. 33


profile

“I’d never done social media in any capacity in the past. I’m pretty sure [the response] is extraordinary,” he says. “It just echoes the weight of the message and has struck a chord with a lot of people. “It’s funny talking about issues such as isolation and loneliness when people see you’re in camps with 1000 others. It’s hard for them to understand, but it can be quite lonely when you close your donga door and the kids are playing up at home or your partner’s sick and you can’t do anything about it.” Luke says ‘FIFO man’ has opened up a new dialogue and he’s heard some horrific stories about suicide and depression within the industry. Some critics even view his site as kryptonite to the mining sector. “There’s a stigma for men about speaking up and reaching out for help. Particularly in this industry, there’s a view that you should just harden up and get on with it,” Luke says. “I’ve copped a fair bit of criticism. There was a post from a guy who worked in the Defence Force who said they work six months away so three weeks is a breeze. I pointed out to the guy that I’m not trying to say I’m doing it tougher than anyone else. “I put up a post from a young woman who said her partner was going to start doing FIFO and was asking for people’s opinions. Some absolute idiots got on there and said some derogatory comments that I took down.” However, Luke says it’s the overwhelming support and positive comments that inspire him to keep his Facebook page going.

34

Did you know? • A construction worker is six times more likely to commit suicide than to die in a workplace accident, yet few mine sites address mental health issues when doing daily safety briefings. • FIFO workers can experience loneliness while away from home, and stress from the long hours and shiftwork. On a positive note, some say they have more ‘quality time’ with their families when they are home.

“Some of the stories that people have told me are amazing. A number of [FIFO workers’] wives have sent me messages telling me they’ve never really understood, before now, how their partner feels,” Luke explains. “There are a lot of blokes out there who should buy me a beer for saving their marriages!” Despite the site’s name, ‘FIFO man’ is not just for male miners and their families, but for female FIFO workers, who face a number of gender-related issues, such as sexism and intimidation, on the predominantly male sites, Luke says. Luke himself is engaged to be married to Melissa Endres, who has three children, in May next year. “It’s fantastic and I’m the happiest I’ve ever been in my life,” he says. “The main message on ‘FIFO man’ is you’re not alone. There are a lot of other people out there who have the same feelings as you – the man or woman in the next donga, at the next camp or on the other side of the world. “There are a lot of people who have come out on the other side, myself included. All you need to do is ask for help – and maybe ask someone else if they need help.”

“It’s funny talking about issues such as isolation and loneliness when people see you’re in camps with 1000 others. It’s hard for them to understand.”


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meet demand. 5. Over 50 Billion dollars in investment across 11 current projects in mining, defence, government, infrastructure and agricultural. 6. Up to another 28 potential projects in mining, oil and gas projects set to kick off over the coming decade. Some of the most significant mining, oil and gas projects the country has ever seen are being and will be serviced and supplied through Darwin. 7. Strategic location within close proximity to Asia. 8. Depreciation components typically double other capital city locations due to high

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construction standards, building materials and cyclone ratings. 9. ‘Multi-tiered Economy’, with Mining, Defence, Government, Agriculture and Tourism all providing economic benefits. 10. Limited space to grow within the CBD area with Darwin situated on a Peninsula surrounded by water on 3 sides putting residential property in the CBD at a premium for property investment.

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National

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We bring you the latest in property and investment analysis, penned by the professionals

41


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National

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SHARES VS PROPERTY JOSH MASTERS Expert buyer’s agent and author of Why Property Why Now

With more than 15 years’ experience in the industry and hundreds of property purchases under his belt, Josh Masters is one of Australia’s most respected buyer’s agents. Learn more at joshmasters.com.au

WHILE THERE are hundreds of ways to make a dollar, if you’re looking at investing, by far the most popular option for Australians is shares or property. While both can offer great returns when managed properly, each has characteristics that make it better suited to one person than another. Here are a few things to consider. Volatility Defined as the percentage of movement in prices, property has always been a favourite for investors due to the low price fluctuations the market generally experiences. Niche markets do have large swings up and down but it’s rare and is certainly

nothing like the swings you’ll get in the share market. In contrast, it’s not uncommon to see shares increase by 20 or 30 per cent in a few hours, bringing riches to many. But values can fall just as quickly, so be aware of the risks and realise the level of volatility to which you may be exposed by investing in shares.

Leverage The returns of shares versus property often track quite similarly over the long term, but there’s no doubting the amount of leverage property can achieve compared with shares. It is this leverage that allows the investor to control large amounts of funds with relatively few dollars, equating to large gains (or losses) when the market makes its move. Commonly, investors leverage at five or 10 times their principal amount when buying property. This is considered reasonable and even conservative to some, as property’s relatively low levels of volatility mean there is far less associated risk. Shares, on the other hand, fluctuate wildly, so the thought of borrowing five, 10 or even 20 times the amount invested would make most investors’ heads spin – and would open them up to massive losses should the market move against them.

Margin calls A margin call is when you borrow to invest and then the price falls so low that it threatens the amount the lender has put into the deal. At this point the lender forces the sale of the investment to recoup their money. This often spells the end for the investor, who has to sell at a price that not only wipes out their original investment but leaves them owing massive amounts to their lender, with no asset to fall back on. Property investors may not be familiar with the term because, typically, margin calls don’t happen in property – a comforting fact to remember.

Liquidity Property investment has many pluses but being able to buy and sell quickly is not one of them. Shares can literally be traded in a nanosecond; property transactions take weeks, months or sometimes years to execute, making ready access to funds difficult. Shares, however, can be traded often and at any dollar value, making them supremely convenient: you can invest for

a desired period and convert them easily back into cash when needed.

Entry and exit costs The entry and exit costs of property transactions can make the idea of quick turnover even less attractive. Stamp duty, legal fees, agents’ fees and government charges can add up, typically putting the investor behind even before they own the property. While shares do attract small fees – for the execution of a trade or to engage the services of a stockbroker – these costs are minimal in comparison to the amount invested, and work favourably for the investor who’s looking to invest or access funds without penalty. While some investors may opt for shares over property or vice versa, each carries its own pros and cons. It’s important to understand which will suit you. Understanding how each asset will perform is important – but life is full of changes, so make allowances within your portfolio that allow it to evolve in line with your situation.

Property investment has many pluses but being able to buy and sell quickly is not one of them.

43



National

propertyguide

TIPS TO GET FINANCE

What you must know when arranging finance for your investment property.

ANDREW

CROSSLEY

From Australian Property Advisory Group

Andrew Crossley is a property investment adviser and property advocate and the founder of Australian Property Advisory Group, which specialises in representing the buyer, not the seller.

INVESTING IN property requires planning and involves having several strategies. Success in growing your property portfolio is not only about property values increasing, it’s about balancing your accessible equity/cash with your ability to service debt. Here’s the essential compact guide to preparing for securing your next loan. Have clarity about your approach to your next property. Can you avoid loan mortgage insurance or not? Don’t shop around for the best rate, as you could inadvertently end up with several credit enquiries on your credit report; use a broker. Every time you apply for a credit card, personal loan, interest-free finance

for furniture at a retail store and so on, a credit hit occurs. The more credit hits you have, the more of a risk you become to a lender. This means you could end up with a higher rate, sometimes upwards of two per cent. Reducing your credit card limit will increase your borrowing capacity. Declare all your liabilities and assets. Avoid taking a loan or guaranteeing a loan with someone else other than your spouse (most lenders will attribute 100 per cent of the debt to you and only 50 per cent of rental income, if any). If you’re over 55, lenders normally require an exit strategy, which often excludes downsizing or selling a business. Apply when you have two incomes. If you apply after just changing jobs, it can prove difficult; if you apply after just becoming self-employed, it could prove impossible. Obtain a copy of your credit file to ensure you’re aware of what’s on it. I’ve seen so many instances in which someone has a default listed of which they were not aware. This will affect

servicing and the interest rate you get. Have your paperwork ready: two forms of ID, two forms of income verification, savings statements, contract (if a purchase), six-month repayment history (if a refinance) or three-month repayment history (for credit cards/ personal loans, if consolidating debt). Fill in all sections on the application. Many lenders credit score, and they could decline you for suspected non-disclosure. Consider having interest-only loans for investment debt (reduce your non-taxdeductable debt, your home mortgage). With the new legislation on positive credit reporting, you could be quite exposed; even late payments may be visible to other lenders, affecting your chances of getting a loan. I’d be interested in your opinion about whether or not you think it’s fair that lenders become privy to your personal information. Email me your thoughts at andrew@ australianpropertyadvisorygroup.com.au For more information, visit australianpropertyadvisorygroup.com.au

Don’t shop around for the best rate, as you could inadvertently end up with several credit enquiries on your credit report.

45


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National

propertyguide

SEVEN SMART TIPS FOR HIGH-INCOME EARNERS Having a high income isn’t a free pass to spend carelessly, advises Kevin Lee.

KEVIN LEE

Founder and director of Smart Property Adviser

Kevin Lee is a property investment adviser in Australia. To attend one of his free ‘no secrets’ seminars, visit smartpropertyadviser.com.au

IN MANY ways, the financial characteristics of mining personnel are very similar to those of the rest of the population. Like everyone else, you like to spend, to enjoy the fruits of your labour and lifestyle. However high-income earners also face their own unique challenges. If your combined household income is greater than $200,000, there are seven tips you should consider.

1

Reduce your credit-card limits and cancel any unused credit cards

In a previous article for this magazine, I emphasised some common mistakes people make with their credit cards. Highincome earners are guilty of the same mistakes. Many people have more than one credit card. That’s OK if you manage the debt. But most people don’t – their cards control their lives. Remember, if you don’t pay the balance of your credit card/s in full every month, the bank’s servicing calculators will multiply your total limits by four and deduct that figure from your borrowing capacity when you apply for a loan. Tip: Once you’ve paid off a significant amount of debt, reduce your credit card limit before you apply for a property loan. This will make a huge difference to your borrowing capacity.

2

Consolidate your personal debt

A prospective lender prefers to see consolidated debt than

multiple debts. Always look for opportunities to consolidate any personal loans and cards with high interest rates. It’s not rocket science: one interest rate on one loan always looks better than multiple loans. Multiple loans not only cost you more in interest, they have a negative impact on your borrowing capacity. Consolidating existing debts often reveals extra cashflow you can use to fast-track the elimination of all credit cards and consolidated debt. Tip: It’s smart to pay off the smallest debt first, working your way up to the largest debt. Watch the ‘Debt Snowball’ Strategy video by David Deegan at smartfinancialadvice.com.au to help you get out of the debt trap.

3

Avoid unnecessary consumer debt

Many high-income earners don’t consider themselves wealthy or well-off. A recent finance article revealed that people on higher incomes spend a higher percentage of their cash than

those on lower incomes. The article also interviewed a highincome householder who claimed the income the household earned (more than $200,000) made them feel just ‘comfortable’. What makes you feel ‘rich’ is a matter of perception. Think about it: what do we really need in this life? Answer: food, water, shelter and clothing. What, however, do we really want in this life? Answer: status symbols relevant to food, water, shelter and clothing! You may be earning $200,000 a year but after income tax, mortgage repayments, credit card repayments, car and personal loan repayments, a plethora of indirect taxes and levies and the cost of living, you’d be lucky to save $1000 a month if you’re like most families. Many high-income earners buy items they believe will boost their status among their friends and family – items that provide the lifestyle they believe they deserve. However, this lifestyle causes unnecessary consumer debt and severe financial 47


National

propertyguide

pain. Expensive lifestyle items depreciate in value as soon as you sign the paperwork. Tip: Instead of wasting your money on consumer debt, consider buying assets that have the potential to increase in value over the longer term; for example, investment property.

4

Have the right insurance in place

Your financial planner can help to ensure you always have the right insurance in place. If you don’t have the right insurance protection, here’s what would happen if you lost your job or became seriously ill or injured and couldn’t work: (1) You’d lose your high income; and (2) you’d lose your home and other assets. Tip: Having seen what life can unexpectedly deliver, I strongly advise people to take out adequate life insurance, trauma insurance and income protection insurance.

5

Look for ways to make your money work for you

As we touched on earlier, start to think of consumer debt as unnecessary. Look for ways to make your money work harder 48

You need to have written goals in place. It’s a sad fact that only three per cent of people have written goals.

than you do. If you have cash sitting in a general savings account – or, worse, a number of small savings accounts – your money isn’t working for you. You’re pretty much giving the banks a free pass. Tip: Consolidate all those extra funds into one term deposit or your offset account. Better still, invest them in shares or property. And do your research before you decide what is the best strategy to help you to achieve your financial goals.

6

Have the right loan structure

Your variable rate home loan might benefit from having an offset account attached, so speak with your financial adviser or mortgage broker to assess if it will work for you. Also, structuring investment loans as ‘interest only’ has been popular for about 30 years now but it’s not always the smart thing to do. Tip: Debt reduction might just be the new black. Make sure your

loan portfolio is well structured, organised and regularly reviewed. A poorly structured loan portfolio reduces your flexibility, increases your risk profile and can create reporting and tax nightmares. And diversify your loan portfolio across different lenders; that way, you have leverage when you apply for finance; it diversifies your risk of overexposure to any one lender; and it gives you the upper hand when negotiating.

7

Have a long-term wealth plan

Speak with your financial planner and accountant about your longterm wealth plan. You need to have written goals in place. It’s a sad fact that only three per cent of people have written goals, and that their income and wealth are greater than those of the other 97 per cent of people combined. The primary excuses for not having written goals are laziness, apathy and not enough time. But they’re just that: excuses.

Tip: This flight could be a blessing in disguise. Take some time – right now – to think about your financial future and start writing down your goals. Dream big and plan for the next five years. Work backwards: What do you want to have achieved in five years, three years and one year from now? What do you need to do – what are your action steps – over the next 12 months, three months and next week, if you’re to start achieving your goals? Ask yourself the following pertinent questions: (a) When do you want to retire? (b) What income do you want in retirement so as to be able to live the retirement lifestyle you desire? (c) What’s your plan for achieving (a) and (b)? Remember, no-one plans to fail; they fail to plan! If you don’t have a realistic plan or aren’t confident about how to achieve your goals, you need to invest in your financial education.



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