Edible San Joaquin Valley - Spring 2022 by Edible-SanJoaquinValley

edible san joaquin valley 

™

Celebrating the bounty of the San Joaquin Valley Spring 2022

THE TASTES OF SPRING Member of Edible Communities WINTER 2021

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BRADSHAW HONEY FARMS Local Love For Local Honey

HAM GL AZED HONEY E A ST E R gar NTS INGREDIE cked light brown su pa 1 3/4 cups y ne Dijon) 3/4 cup ho n mustard (we use ow 1/2 cup br s butter on r 2 tablespo s apple cider vinega on 2 tablespo ions. IONS age direct INSTRUCT ing to pack rd gredients co in ac e m th all •Heat ha ing, place at he is h ig m ha m-h heat While the over mediu k up m saucepan ntly to brea iu ue ed m eq a fr ir in simmer. St continue a d to an g w in -lo and br medium uce heat to by a third, lumps. Red til reduced . un ly ow sl 20 minutes t ou ab to simmer ned, move ham and thicke , re , ed ft en le e rk da ok tim the minutes co baste with •With 30 cover, and un ts in the , cu en n ov ee e tw from th the glaze be e ham to the k or W e. th warm glaz le. Return ver possib ing. ham where utes of cook in m 30 st la e th r fo oven

edible

San Joaquin Valley tells the stories of the extraordinary farmers, ranchers, cheesemakers, bakers, brewers, winemakers, chefs and other food and drink artisans in Fresno County and surrounding areas of the valley.

Family owned and operated since 1958 @bradshawhoney www.beebotanical.com

www.ediblesjv.com Email info@ediblesanjoaquin.com for more information.

CONTENTS SPRING 2022

meet the farmer A B E AUTI FU L BO U NT Y A Labor of Love for Blueberries at Thor Farms

edible drinks 35 | Floral Sangria

edible endeavors 30 | Q&A with the Revue Fresno

edible entrepreneur 12 | Get in Line with Fresno Street Eats

featured recipes 24 | Roasted Asparagus, Bacon and Cheese Tart 34 | Blueberry Galette with Chamomile Whipped Cream

special section 16 | From Edible Communities

ON THE COVER Fresh, seasonal asparagus Photo by Dakota Jacobi

SPRING 2022

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The Mug Coffee themugfresno.com

Heirloom www.heirloom-eats.com

Nines Salon ninessalon.com

The Foundry thefoundrycollective.myshopify.com

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NINAS BAKERY l a h m a j o o n k i tc h e n

Nina’s Bakery - Fresno (559) 449-9999

VISIT THESE PLACES FOR YOUR EXTRA COPIES OF EDIBLE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY

Saint Joaquin saintjoaquin.com

SPRING 2022 Springtime is splendid, when our garden beds are a fresh canvas for us to nurture our favorite vegetables, fruits and herbs. If you haven’t the time or a green-enough thumb to do it yourself, never fear – the San Joaquin Valley is replete with farmers markets, run by those who are happy to do it for you. In this issue, we’ll introduce you to more of the people who inspire local flavors here. Asparagus and blueberries are just a few of the springtime ingredients we just can’t get enough of, and we’re sharing some of our favorite recipes where they’re the stars of the show. If you’re looking for a new cocktail, our Floral Sangria recipe showcases edible blooms in a beautiful, light cocktail that’s perfect for a leisurely brunch. Also in this issue, learn more about Fresno Street Eats, which positions food trucks in the places where people live and work – it’s a win for vendors and patrons alike. We’ll also introduce you to the remarkable women behind The Revue in Fresno, a lovely spot to enjoy a carefully crafted cup of coffee. They delight in creating beautiful drinks for their guests. “The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to feed not just the body, but the soul.” – Alfred Austin

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SAN JOAQUIN VALLE Y

YVONNE MAZZOTTA publisher MICHELLE ADAMS publisher MONICA FATICA editor in chief KERRI REGAN copy editor BRENNA DAVID advertising sales representative www.ediblesjv.com 1475 Placer Street, Suites C & D Redding, CA 96001 530.246.4687 office 530.246.2434 fax Email General/Sales and Advertising information: info@ediblesanjoaquin.com

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freelance writers. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If an error is found, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us of the mistake. The businesses,

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Photo by Salina Marroquin SPRING 2022

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FARMERS MARKETS —a quick look—

OLD TOWN CLOVIS FARMERS MARKETS Saturdays 9-11:30am year round Located at Pollasky between 5th & Bullard Seasonal Market, Fridays 5:30pm to 8:30pm April 29 – October 28

HARLAN RANCH FRESH MARKET Wednesdays (year round) 5-9pm 1620 N. Leonard Ave., Clovis VISALIA FARMERS MARKETS Saturdays 8-11:30am year round Located at Caldwell and Shady St. Kaweah Health Market Wednesdays 8:00am – 11:30am Corner of Akers & Tulare

DOWNTOWN VISALIA’S CERTIFIED FARMERS MARKET Thursdays 4-7pm (after daylight savings) Church & Main RIVER PARK FARMERS MARKET Tuesdays 5-9pm / Saturdays 10am-3pm River Park Shopping Center, Nees and Blackstone 220 E Paseo del Centro, Fresno FORT WASHINGTON FARMERS MARKET Year round Sundays 9am-2pm / Wednesdays 5-9pm Riverview Shopping Center at Fort Washington and Friant Roads, across the street from the east entrance of Woodward Park, Fresno VINEYARD FARMERS MARKET Year round Wednesdays 2-5pm / Saturdays 7am-noon Rain or shine 100 West Shaw Ave., Fresno TESORO VIEJO FARMERS MARKET February 20-End of November Weekly, Sunday 9am-noon In Tesoro Viejo Town Center Hwy 41 and Avenue 15/ Tesoro Viejo Blvd. 4150 Town Center Blvd., Madera Contact us to have your Farmers Market added to this list: info@ediblesanjoaquin.com

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Melissa Mendonca is a graduate of San Francisco State and Tulane universities. She’s a lover of airports and road trips and believes in mentoring and service to create communities everyone can enjoy. Her favorite words are rebar, wanderlust and change.

Dakota Jacobi has been capturing love stories for three years, photographing families, seniors and couples. She aims to document the candid, organic and “unposed” moments of life. Her mission is to not just take great pictures, but to build relationships and create experiences for her clients. When she’s not adventuring around California or editing in her favorite coffee shop, she spends her days at home with her two kids. www.dakotalynnphoto.com

Salina Marroquin is a trusted insurance agent who picked up a camera to document her son’s athletic events and achievements only to discover her passion for photography. Her free time is spent behind the camera capturing treasured images on film. She loves CrossFit, the month of October, pumpkin everything, and her mini daschund, Ellie-Jo. She has a big heart for small valley towns and businesses.

Monica Fatica is queen of the juggle. From editing community magazines to dabbling in the farming industry, there aren’t many tasks Monica won’t try. When she isn’t running from job to job, the married mother of three is catching up with family and loving all over her fur babies. Her passion for helping others and the love for her community inspire her to contribute to spreading all the good happening in the valley.

Rachel Trigueiro, wife, mom of four and writer, spends her days homeschooling, cooking and re-heating her coffee. As a child she dreamed of being a talk-show host and today sees others ‘stories as a gift to be shared. When she’s not writing or dabbling in a creative venture, she loves spending time with her family.

Michelle Adams is a publisher, designer, photo-retoucher, accountant, wife and mother who puts the M in multitasking. Michelle brings the calm and steady to an often chaotic environment and is a force of great wisdom with a gift for color choice. She loves bringing the great stories to life within the pages of multiple publications through beautiful design. But her favorite thing to do is spending time with her husband and daughter.

Yvonne Mazzotta is inspired by the need. A publisher, content creator, graphic designer and mother of three, she brings beauty to all that she does. Marketing manager for a queen bee operation, Yvonne is grateful for beekeepers and farmers who bring the foods we highlight to the family tables. Whether it’s feeding her curiosity or finding the right balance in a brand campaign you can guarantee, she’s on it!

SPRING 2022

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LOCAL & IN SEASON

Eat this Now FRUITS Grapefruit Lemons Navel Oranges Mandarins VEGETABLES Asparagus Beets Broccoli Carrots Cabbage Cauliflower Celery Chard Cilantro Fennel Leeks Lettuce Parsley Radish Spinach

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Plant this Now FRUITS Cantaloupes/other melons Tomatoes Watermelon VEGETABLES Artichoke Cucumbers Eggplant Peppers Sweet Corn Peppers Sweet Potatoes Pumpkins Squash Zucchini

SPRING 2022

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NEW & NOTABLE

Beyond the Wine

Frosted Cakery

www.linktr.ee/beyondthewinenorth

www.frostedcakery.com Located in the Tower District, the Frosted Cakery is a must-stop when in the area – or it’s worth making a special trip. You’ll find freshly baked cookies, pies, cakes by the slice, mini cakes, cronut ice cream sandwiches and a wide variety of signature cupcakes. They even have pupcakes for your furry friend. Some of the unique cupcake flavors they’ve offered are Lemon Drop, French Toast, Pink Champagne, Lucky Charms, Bailey’s and Cream and Salted Caramel, to name a few. We hear their Hoho cake and cake shakes are a must try!

You won’t find the typical wine bar at Beyond the Wine. Aside from a good wine selection, you’ll find a relaxing atmosphere, friendly staff, live music and small bites. Many locals celebrate special events or enjoy date nights at this north Fresno wine bar, especially on weekend nights when throwback music from the 1980s and ‘90s are enjoyed. They also offer cocktails and beer if wine isn’t your thing, and we hear the customers are just as friendly as the staff.

Crow & Wolf Brewing Co.

Kristina’s Organic Market

www.cawbrewing.com

www.kristinasranchmarket.com

Located off the Clovis bike trail, Crow & Wolf Brewing Co. offers a variety of sours, ciders, seltzers and traditional beers. They source ingredients from local farms, which is a perk of operating in the Central Valley where there’s direct access. The atmosphere is family friendly with plenty of seating, a patio, cornhole and rotating food trucks. They host themed bingo nights, live music and offer activities such as their High Fitness and Hops event to help you burn off those extra calories. This spring is the perfect time to enjoy the weather while enjoying a brew.

Kristina’s Natural Ranch Market has been in operation for more than 40 years. They have been the go-to source for fresh, organic groceries, natural health products, vitamins, supplements and natural beauty products since long before it became mainstream. Their efforts to source food from local farms make them a supporter of the “shop local” mentality and building a strong local economy. We love their giving heart, which is evident from their regular food donations to local shelters, offering a discount program for Fresno State students and their turkey giveaways during Thanksgiving.

Red Apple Cafe

Jugo Salad & Juice Bar

www.red-apple-cafe.cafe-inspector.com/

www.jugoeats.com/

We hear this is one of Fresno’s best kept secrets for breakfast, brunch or lunch. Their portions are generous and the quality of every dish looks and tastes just as good as the next. Some menu items consist of Chilaquiles, Hawaiian French Toast, Calamari Steak and Eggs, and Crab Cake Benedict. You’ll also step back in time with the attentive service, friendly staff and your coffee never running low. We hear the homestyle potatoes and mimosas are worth the wait for a table, too.

This health food restaurant prides itself in being a fast, casual, chef-inspired salad and juice bar. They serve signature salads, custom salads, cold pressed juices, acai bowls and smoothies. We are intrigued by their menu items such as Monkey Biz, which is made with almond milk, bananas, cacao nibs, coconut, almond butter, dates, cacao powder and agave. We hear this is a great place to get the after workout fuel by treating yourself to avocado toast and a smoothie.

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Photos sourced from Instagram and Facebook

Fresno Wine Academy upcoming Classes Classes at Fig & Honey Sunday, March 6 Tasting Like a Professional 10:30am-12:30pm Saturday, March 12 Bubbles Intensive (Champagne, Sparkling Wine, Cava & Prosecco) 5:30pm to 8:00pm Saturday March 26 Wine & Food Pairing Class 5:30pm-8:00pm Saturday, April 16, Spanish Night (Tapas, Paella & Spanish Wines) 5:30pm-10:00pm

Classes at Toca Madera Winery Wednesday, March 16 Tasting Like a Professional 6:30pm- 9:00pm Wednesday, March 30 Wine & Food Pairing Fundamentals 6:30pm- 9:00pm

www.fresnowineacademy.com (831) 233-2286 info@fresnowineacademy.com SPRING 2022

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EDIBLE ENTREPRENEUR

KEEP ON TRUCKIN’ Get in Line with Fresno Street Eats Story by Rachel Trigueiro

HAT STARTED AS a collaborative effort with other organizations to launch large monthly events in the Fresno area morphed into more of a local popup shop, hosting 15 to 20 events a week. “COVID changed how we do everything,” says Fresno Street Eats founder Mike Osegueda. “I look at it as a Fresno Street Eats 1.0 that began in 2019 and then a 2.0 version starting in 2020.” Before the pandemic, Fresno Street Eats was doing one or two large scale events a month with 2,000 to 3,000 people. Today, they’re doing smaller neighborhood type events 15 to 20 times a week.

“I THOUGHT OF THOSE I WAS WORKING WITH WHOSE LIVELIHOOD WAS IN THEIR FOOD TRUCK AND I KNEW WE NEEDED TO HELP THEM. WE WERE JUST TRYING TO MAKE SURE THEY HAD PLACES TO GO AND STAY OPEN.”

Photos provided by Fresno Street Eats

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Though Osegueda was never looking to do smaller events, he rerouted when he saw the way COVID was affecting local food truck owners. “I thought of those I was working with whose livelihood was in their food truck and I knew we needed to help them,” he says. “We were just trying to make sure they had places to go and stay open.” After two years, the idea remains the same, making sure food trucks have places to go. Fresno Street Eats, a team of nearly 10 people, watched as they strategically positioned food trucks in places where people live and work, and saw that it was helping the community in multiple ways. “The food trucks are really well accepted by families, communities and businesses. People are reaching out asking if they can come to their area.”

While the trucks are constantly changing locations, Tioga-Sequoia Brewing Co. is a big partner with Fresno Street Eats, offering a weekly spot at their brewery. Another consistent location is the Sierra Vista Mall. Up to 15 trucks can be found any given Saturday at Sierra Vista Mall for a family friendly event with games, music, vendors and a lot of good food. In addition to the reoccurring pop-ups and breweries, the food trucks are going places no other food trucks have gone before, bringing trucks to people where there aren’t many options. “The goal is to spread out around town,” Osegueda says. “We currently have four or five different lunch locations daily.” 4 continued on page 14

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L-R it’s Jerry Medrano (DJ/venue manager), Mike Osegueda (founder/ president) and Tony Heredia (partnership manager). Photo by Cat Eye View Photography / Catalino Alvarez Jr.

“I’LL REMEMBER A NIGHT THAT ONE OF MY FOOD TRUCKS HIT THEIR FIRST $1,000 IN SALES AND HEARING THEM CELEBRATE, MUCH MORE THAN I’LL REMEMBER AN EVENT WITH 15,000 PEOPLE.”

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On March 26, Fresno Street Eats is joining Tioga-Sequoia Brewing Co. for the annual FresYes Fest 2022. Known as the biggest block party in downtown Fresno and expected to be bigger and better than ever, the festival will take over Fulton Street with food trucks, vendors, pop-up venues and live music. Organizational wins are where Osegueda finds success. It’s not about numbers of eventgoers. “I’m really proud of this past year’s Taco Truck Throwdown,” he says. “We came back really strong after the pandemic and got the event back to where it was pre-pandemic.” The events he remembers most, however, are when the food trucks find success. “I’ll remember a night that one of my food trucks hit their first $1,000 in sales and hearing them celebrate, much more than I’ll remember an event with 15,000 people.” In many ways, COVID changed the way the world gathers. Large events are becoming part of society again, but easy, accessible, outdoor options are still the preference of many. Fresno Street Eats does many catering events, which (no pun intended) caters to those looking to make people comfortable, while still offering amazing food. Last winter, the food trucks catered an Amazon Christmas party with 12 food trucks onsite offering people their choice of cuisine. A new way of gathering might take more navigating, but it also equals more (better) options for the customer. To find where Fresno Street Eats is located each day, follow their Instagram page..•

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The trademarks and certification marks displayed are the property of their respective owners and are displayed herein for demonstration and informational purposes. Edible Communities and these entities are not affiliated.

IN LABELS WE TRUST

How food certification labels, seals and standards can help eaters make better choices

STO RY

E L E N A

S E E L E Y,

FO O D

TA N K

CO N T E N T

D I R E C TO R

Danielle Nierenberg, Food Tank president, contributed to this article.

Even before the pandemic, choosing what to eat was difficult.

PROT E CT ING WO RK E RS

What’s healthy? What’s not? Do workers get a fair wage? What’s

In 2020, the World Economic Forum/Ipsos found that 86

better for the planet? For eaters looking to purchase products that

percent of people want a significant change towards a more equi-

are fairly traded or BIPOC owned, it can feel exhausting to find

table and sustainable world post-pandemic.

delicious foods from producers they believe in.

Standards from the food sector are working to eliminate

Certification labels and standards can be useful and neces-

forced and child labor, improve workers’ conditions, promote

sary ways to help consumers, but they’re often confusing. “Un-

gender equity and ensure better pay. Many fair-trade companies

fortunately, the burden is always on the consumer in terms of

are helping growers shift to environmentally sustainable practices.

evaluating the veracity of the label, doing the research to see

“While not a silver bullet, the Rainforest Alliance certification

whether the information on these labels is properly supported

is designed to provide methods and a shared standard for creat-

and accurate,” Brian Ronholm, director of food policy at Con-

ing a more transparent, data-driven, risk-based supply chain…to

sumer Reports, says.

make responsible business the new normal,” says Alex Morgan

Focusing on one issue helps, says Jerusha Klemperer of FoodPrint, an organization that educates consumers about food production practices. Decide which issue you’re most passionate

from the Rainforest Alliance. For foods from the United States, it’s more difficult to find companies upholding fair working conditions.

about and look for a label that upholds those standards. Labels

“Farm employees are still not equally protected under the Fair

can help increase transparency and provide insight into how food

Labor Standards Act and do not have a federally protected right

was produced. They can help eaters vote with their wallets for

to a weekly day of rest, overtime pay, sick time, collective bar-

food choices that support the environment, climate solutions,

gaining rights or even the right to a federal minimum wage on

animal welfare, workers’ rights, and healthy and sustainable diets.

small farms,” says Leah Penniman of Soul Fire Farm, an Afro-

But even conscientious eaters can get overwhelmed by the num-

Indigenous centered community farm in New York.

ber of choices they face.

Rosalinda Guillen, founder of Community to Community,

Choosing certified labels is a way to avoid empty claims, Klem-

says the Food Justice Certified label by the Agricultural Justice

perer says. But not all certification processes are created equal.

Project (AJP) is the most comprehensive label for protecting

Klemperer advises consumers to “do the research before you get

workers. “We call it the gold standard,” says Guillen, who has

to the store.”

provided input on AJP’s certification since 2000. Her BIPOC-

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led organization fights for better farm working conditions. She trusts the

mals suffer unnecessarily,” says Ben Goldsmith of Farm Forward, a non-

label because farm workers were deeply involved in setting the standards

profit striving to improve farm animal welfare. It can be easy for us to

from the beginning.

imagine ideal scenarios—healthy animals that are free to roam in open

Soul Fire is one of just six farms using Food Justice Certified. And it's advocating for the Fairness for Farm Workers Act. “The exploitation of farm labor is so deeply entrenched in the DNA of this nation that it can feel daunting to confront it, and yet we must,” says Penniman.

pastures—but unfortunately, Goldsmith explains, few animals are raised this way. According to the nongovernmental organization, Food and Water Watch, 1.6 billion farm animals live on 25,000 factory farms, or concentrated animal feeding operations, in the U.S. These animals face over-

IS AL L N AT URA L ME ANI N GL E SS?

crowded and stressful conditions and are regularly subject to physical

One of the most familiar labels is all natural. It sounds good—even healthy—but it’s an empty marketing tool.

alterations like tail docking and beak clipping. To avoid meats from animals subject to inhumane practices, look for

Klemperer says, “Ignore it.” Look for labels like USDA Certified

the Certified Animal Welfare Approved (AWA) label. Farmers and ranch-

Organic, which is two decades old. According to the Economic Re-

ers qualifying for certification cannot use cages, must provide access to

search Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, organic foods can

pastures and must ensure animals are treated humanely when they are

be found in almost three out of every four conventional supermarkets.

bred, transported and slaughtered. Producers may also add a Certified

To meet USDA standards, foods must be grown in soils that have

Grass-fed label to this certification, meaning animals were fed a 100 per-

not been treated with artificial fertilizers and pesticides for at least three

cent grass and forage diet. Goldsmith says he appreciates the AWA label

years. And organic farmers cannot plant genetically modified organisms

because it helps to “support and encourage small producers.”

(GMOs).

Another label is Certified Humane from Humane Farm Animal Care.

Newer labels, like the Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) label,

Minimum space allowances and environmental enrichment must be pro-

encourage farmers to further improve animal welfare, fairness for farm

vided for animals raised under Certified Humane standards. That encom-

workers and soil health. The label’s three-tiered system allows producers

passes the treatment of breeding animals, animals during transport and

to earn bronze, silver or gold certification to incentivize action.

animals at slaughter.

This label is also designed to be adaptable. “As science and culture

These labels are better for animals—and farmers can find them more

morph and change, we can incorporate that into a flexible or dynamic stan-

rewarding. “You get to see animals exhibit natural behaviors,” says Ron

dard that can adjust at that level,” explains Jeff Moyer, CEO of the Rodale

Mardesen, a livestock farmer for Niman Ranch, a beef, pork and lamb

Institute, a nonprofit group dedicated to growing the organic movement.

company with Certified Humane products. For products like eggs, terms like humane raised, free range and hor-

NON- G M O L A BEL S DE MYST I F I E D

mone free sound good, but lack a clear definition. The U.S. prohibits the

Many growers avoid GMOs without using USDA Certified Organic practices. GMO products are derived from plants and animals, the genetic makeup of which has been altered, often to create resistance to pesticides, herbicides and pests.

use of hormones in all poultry, veal, eggs, bison and pork production, so claims of hormone free don’t mean much. AWA, Certified Humane and USDA Certified Organic labeling standards prohibit the use of antibiotics and synthetic hormones in animal

Consumers can look for the Non-GMO Project Verified label, which indicates that produce or products containing fruits and vegetables are not

production. Consumers looking to buy meat products raised without these inputs should buy certified labels.

produced with GMOs. For meat and dairy products, this label means that S O ME T H ING FIS H Y

animals were fed a non-GMO diet. In 2022, products containing GMOs must use a new Bio-Engineered

The seafood sector is rife with labor exploitation, overfishing, eco-

label from the USDA. But some non-GMO advocates argue this label

system damage, fraud and intentional mislabeling. Mark Kaplan, of the

doesn’t go far enough. Many products derived from new modification

company Envisible, calls the challenges in the industry “appalling.”

techniques, including those having undergone CRISPR gene editing and crops meant for animal feed, will be exempt from the label.

Envisible works to make supply chains more transparent and equitable. Using blockchain, the company can trace a product from a fishing vessel all the way to the supermarket. Data entered at every point along

H UMA N E L A BEL I N G

the supply chain cannot be changed, helping eliminate fraud.

“I think everybody cares about animals and nobody wants to see ani-

Kaplan recommends consumers look for the Global Seafood continued

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M A RK E T PL AC E

Communities

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Alliance’s Best Aquaculture Practices label, a third-party certification that

Numi prefers this approach. She believes that allowing companies to la-

addresses environmental health, social wellbeing, food safety and animal

bel individual products as carbon neutral “can give a green halo to that

welfare along the aquaculture supply chain.

company without necessarily committing to or investing in enterprise

The Fair-Trade Certified seal, a label given to various species of fish

level change.”

that meet certification requirements, is also helpful. Certification focuses

Numi plans to print on each tea box the precise estimate of green-

on supporting economies, improving working conditions and protecting

house gas emissions associated with it—something Oatly and Quorn are

ecosystems.

currently also doing with their packaging.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch is a tool to help guide more sustainable choices on a case-by-case basis. Its website allows users

U NWRAPPING LAB E LS

to search by species to understand the best options and alternatives, and

Emily Moose, executive director of the nonprofit A Greener World,

which species to avoid.

argues that it’s important for consumers to continually ask for sustainable

CARBO N L A BE L I NG

whelming, it might not matter.’ But that’s really not true,” says Moose.

products. “It can be easy to just say, ‘Oh, there’s too much, it’s too overAccording to Nature Food, more than one-third of greenhouse gas emissions can be traced to the food system. Many eaters are seeing this

“That only benefits an opaque food system and practices that will never improve.”

connection between global agriculture and the climate crisis, and they

If you care about workers, speak with store managers about carrying

want to purchase more climate-friendly food. Some businesses are seeing

products with AJP’s label. For environmental concerns, email store buy-

labels as part of the solution.

ers to let them know you’re happy they purchase organic or local products

Numi Organic Tea has Climate Neutral Certification. It helps com-

but wish they had more.

panies measure, offset and reduce their carbon emissions to reach carbon

And eaters don’t always need labels to do the right thing. BIPOC

neutrality—a balance between the amount of carbon emitted into and

and women-owned businesses have been disproportionately impacted by

absorbed by the atmosphere. Climate Neutral also tries to account for the

the pandemic. Consumers can look to local farmers’ markets or Yelp and

entirety of the supply chain—emissions caused by on-site facilities, pur-

Google for businesses with a Black-owned or women-led badge.

chased electricity, employee transit, shipping and transporting materials.

Ultimately, labels and certifications are helpful tools, but don’t tell us

Instead of specific products, Climate Neutral certifies entire brands

everything about how food is produced. As eaters, though, we have the op-

once they achieve zero net carbon emissions for one year and requires

portunity, every time we pick up a fork, chopsticks or a spoon, to choose

them to commit to emission reduction targets annually. Jane Franch of

more economically, socially and environmentally just food systems.

Closing Thoughts From Our Founder Thank you for joining us on these pages, the fourth in a series of thought leadership pieces from Edible Communities. We would like to send a special thanks to our partners for this issue, Elena Seeley, Danielle Nierenberg and the team at Food Tank, who made this story possible. Exploring, investigating and changing our food system have been guiding principles of Edible Communities since we first began. And while I know our work has impact and is valued, there is still a lot more to do! In the case of labeling, for instance, it would be so easy if there were one label, one certification, one set of guidelines, one choice to make when it comes to our food, but alas, only one option would allow a broken food system to stay broken. Therefore, we hope you find this thought-provoking and thorough coverage on the topic informative and useful. As you are reading this, Edible Communities is fully into our 20th anniversary year as a media company. We are approaching 100 titles throughout North America and reach over 20 million readers each year. Those are statistics we don’t take lightly. We are grateful for you, dear readers, who help guide and sustain us. And if you’re an Edible reader, we feel you will enjoy being a Food Tank reader as well. Part of its mission statement says: “We aim to educate, inspire, advocate and create change,” and it certainly does that. I encourage you to visit foodtank.com, to listen, learn, join and be part of the conversation. Tracey Ryder, Co-Founder & CEO Edible Communities

edible Communities |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C T I O N

WINTER | For 2021 more on www.EdibleSJV.com this story, visit ediblecommunities.com

FEATURED RECIPES

Get Your Greens

Roasted Asparagus, Bacon and Cheese Tart Recipe and photo by Edible Staff

1 1 1 1 10 1 2

INGREDIENTS large bunch of medium-sized asparagus, with rough ends snapped off T olive oil Zest of 1 lemon Coarse salt and pepper 2 sheets of puff pastry, thawed according to package instructions package of Boursin cheese (herb and garlic) cup grated Asiago or Gouda cheese pieces of cooked bacon, chopped egg, beaten with a little water T torn mint leaves

Makes 2 tarts

DIRECTIONS STEP 1: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss together in a bowl asparagus, olive oil, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Set aside. STEP 2: Unroll sheets of puff pastry (or roll out to roughly 10x15 inches) and place on parchment lined baking sheets. You’ll need two sheets. STEP 3: Use a paring knife to score a line around the perimeter of the pastry, about 1 inch from the edge. With a fork, poke holes all over pastry within the border, so this part remains flat during baking while the border puffs up. STEP 4: Crumble half a package of Boursin cheese on each piece of puff pastry. Scatter each with Asiago or Gouda and bacon. Top with marinated asparagus. STEP 5: Use a pastry brush and spread the egg wash along the border. Place in the oven and bake for 20-22 minutes, until golden. STEP 6: Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 16 wedges.

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MEET THE FARMER

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a b e autif u l bounty A Labor of Love for Blueberries at Thor Farms Story by Melissa Mendonca

PRIL AND MAY are special months at area farmers markets, at least for fans of local blueberries. They are the few months when the snow chaser, prima donnas, and spring high varieties of southern low bush blueberries come into season at Thor Farms in Hanford, and Wendy Thorbus sets out to share her bounty with enthusiasts. “I love going to farmers markets because you get to interact with all of the customers,” she says. “Usually they are very excited, especially when we first arrive.” Those in the know have good reason to be excited. Blueberries aren’t the easiest crop to grow. “They are a very time consuming crop,” says Thorbus. “Very labor-intensive. In California they’re a little harder to grow because of the heat. When you’re harvesting blueberries, they don’t all come in at once. And they won’t ripen once off the vine.” By the time they arrive in their 6-, 12- and 18-oz. cartons at the farmers markets, a labor of love has occurred to get them there. A single bush may undergo six to eight sweepings during harvest to glean ripe fruit. If lucky, each bush can yield up to five pounds per season. Yields often have to do with the temperature during the growing season. Blueberries need a certain number of chill hours when temperatures are 38 degrees or lower. “You won’t get as good a crop if you don’t get the required chill time,” says Thorbus. 4 continued on page 33

I LOVE GOING TO THE FARMERS MARKETS...

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“We just had always liked blueberries, had always been interested in them.”

Thor Farms grows on two and a half acres of land in Hanford and its first crop was harvested in 2008. It’s a project Thorbus works around her full-time job as a cardiovascular ultrasound technician throughout the valley, but one that keeps her connected to her agricultural Minnesota roots. She grew up in a grain-growing family and wanted to stay connected to agriculture upon her move to the San Joaquin Valley in 1993. “We didn’t know anything about farming out here,” she admits. “We just had always liked blueberries, had always been interested in them. There’s a lot of antioxidants in them.” The three varieties Thorbus grows were selected for their taste and ability to cross pollinate and thrive in the San Joaquin Valley. Each has a distinct flavor profile and shape that she can determine by sight. “To me, each variety tastes different,” she says. She’s particularly fond of the snow chaser, which she says tastes more like a wild blueberry. Prior to the COVID pandemic, she enjoyed helping customers determine their favorites through samples at the markets. “Certain people like ones that taste a little sweeter. People will come back and tell me exactly what they want,” she says. Sometimes she creates mixed packages of blueberries, but most of the time they are packaged by variety. Thor Farms has developed a following not only at the Vineyard, Visalia and Hanford farmers markets, but are popular at farmers markets in San Francisco and St. Helena. A dedicated crew of friends and family gather around Thorbus to get

Photos provided by Thor Farms Blueberries

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Advice from a —Blueberry— Be well-rounded Soak up the sun Find beauty in small things Live a fruitful life Be a good pick It’s ok to be a little blue Make sweet memories

to all the markets during harvest season. That is after the bees and hummingbirds have done their work helping the blueberry bushes cross pollinate. “We have a lot of hummingbirds and they make the bees look super slow,” Thorbus says with a laugh, noting that she’s counted up to 20 hummingbirds at a time at the bushes. Fresh blueberries are delicious by the handful, but Thorbus and her customers find a wide range of uses for them, from pies to jams and smoothies. “We use them a lot on our oatmeal and breakfast cereal,” she says, as well as fresh blueberry muffins. She’s also developed a special honey jam using fresh blueberries and orange honey. She enjoys sharing recipes with customers. Core to the farm’s philosophy is a commitment to not use fungicides or pesticides, which she says matters to her customers, as well. “We’re not certified organic, but we try to go that way as much as possible,” she says. In a good year, the blueberry season may extend into June, and for that Thorbus and customers are grateful. The few extra weeks of goodness make the short season all the more sweet. It’s a bit of extra time for Thorbus and her crew to mingle with customers. “We care about quality,” she says. “We enjoy going to the markets and meeting people.” • Thor Farms Blueberries 14th and Lacey, Hanford Find Thor Farms on Facebook, Instagram and at the Vineyard Farmers Market

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L-R: Owner: Katie Truax Manager/Barista: Abigail Harrison

Q&A WITH THE REVUE FRESNO Photos by Salina Marroquin

Edible: What was the inspiration behind launching a coffee shop? Abigail: Maintaining a locally owned coffee spot in the Tower District that delivered quality, local ingredients to the community was the pillar of the shop as a whole. Coffee is one of the oldest human experiences, and it unifies cultures and people. We wanted to give Fresno a space to collaborate, drink coffee and spend time. Edible: What is unique about working at The Revue? Abigail: We offer a lot of really unique aspects to the community. We took over this space after a long history of coffee shops, so being a cornerstone in the Tower District is important to us. There are regulars who have been coming to this building for several decades, so being the place where they spend time and giving them a product they love is an everyday honor. I think the fact that I know the names of most of the customers I serve every day is such a pleasure, but also providing the best customer service we can to our new guests. Edible: Who roasts your coffee? Abigail: Our roaster is Component Coffee out of Visalia. They have been a crucial addition to our store over the last year, and we love working with them. They make our espresso roast, as well as our drip coffee, and we carry a variety of their whole bean roasts to purchase for home. We also have a rotating menu of pour-over options. We feature Component Coffee, but we also host guest roasters every couple of months and highlight some of California’s best and most unique coffees. Some of those shops include Mother Tongue from Oakland, Camellia Coffee from Sacramento and Chromatic Coffee out of San Jose. 4 continued on page 28

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IN REVUE

EDIBLE ENDEAVORS

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We train baristas scrupulously and strive for a consistent and quality product for every guest we serve.

We also strive to source almost every part of our product locally.

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We have a passion for beautiful drinks as well, and latte art is something we love creating for each guest. It’s a genuine pleasure to make a piece of art for someone that is just as temporary as

it is delicious.

Edible: Is there a unique creation special to The Revue? Abigail: Our sauces and syrups are made by Ampersand Ice Cream, who is our sister shop. All of our flavors and sauces are made by them. Our most popular drinks are the Whiskey Caramel Latte and the Mexican Mocha. The Whiskey Caramel features a rich caramel sauce cooked with bourbon whiskey (all the alcohol content is cooked out), and our Mexican Mocha is a blend of chocolate, almond and cinnamon flavors. We also have a lot of fun ice cream options, due to our partnership with Ampersand, so in the summer we make a lot of cold brew milkshakes and floats – it’s a combination of the best of the Central Valley and the results are so delicious. Edible: What do you do at The Revue to ensure that the coffee is the best? Abigail: We really work hard to maintain a dedication to meeting customers where they are at. Craft coffee can often be a little intimidating, even unattainable, and we work really hard to make it accessible and welcoming. We love questions, and we love giving out drinks people will enjoy. We have a passion for beautiful drinks as well, and latte art is something we love creating for each guest. It’s a genuine pleasure to make a piece of art for someone that is just as temporary as it is delicious. We train baristas scrupulously and strive for a consistent and quality product for every guest we serve. Edible: What has been the most memorable thing to happen while working at The Revue? Abigail: Recently, one of our shift-leads was engaged at the shop. She met her fiancé as a customer several years ago, and he had a surprise after-hours proposal planned out for her. We all pitched in to decorate the shop with flowers and it was really lovely to see and experience. It’s a nice little love story, all with the backdrop of coffee. Edible: What would someone be surprised to learn about The Revue? Abigail: The building was originally an ironworks factory. There are still some details around the shop, like our fence and our front window shelves, so it’s nice to carry a little bit of Fresno history in our walls. We also strive to source almost every part of our product locally. • The Revue Coffee Bar 620 E. Olive Ave., Fresno (559) 981-2021 therevuefresno.com Find them on Facebook and Instagram

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FEATURED RECIPES

be true to blue

Blueberry Galette with Chamomile Whipped Cream

GALETTE INGREDIENTS Pie crust 1 pint fresh blueberries ¾ cup sugar 2 T cornstarch Juice of one lemon Whisked egg for brushing Chamomile whipped cream (see instructions on this page; let set a minimum of 4 hours prior to baking) CHAMOMILE WHIPPED CREAM INGREDIENTS 2 chamomile tea bags 8 oz. heavy whipping cream ¼ cup honey ¼ cup powdered sugar (plus more for dusting)

GALETTE INSTRUCTIONS STEP 1: Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Complete the first step at least 4 hours prior to baking.

STEP 2: Place thawed or refrigerated dough on a lightly floured surface. Let rest while you make the blueberry filling.

CHAMOMILE WHIPPED CREAM INSTRUCTIONS STEP 1: Cut open chamomile tea bags and pour them into a small bowl. Cover with 8 oz. heavy cream. Cover tightly and place in refrigerator for 4 hours or overnight. (This mixture can steep up to 5 days. The longer you leave it, the more potent the flavor.)

STEP 3: In a large bowl, add blueberries, sugar and lemon juice. Toss until sugar is a thick liquid and blueberries are coated. Dust with cornstarch and toss again until it is completely incorporated and not visible. Set aside. STEP 4: Roll out pie dough to about 12–14-inch round. STEP 5: Place onto baking sheet lined with parchment. STEP 6: Dump blueberry mixture into the center of dough, leaving about a 1½- to 2-inch border all the way around. STEP 7: Gently fold the pie dough edges, slightly overlapping the blueberries. Brush the dough edges with egg. STEP 8: Bake until crust is golden and blueberries are bubbling, approximately 40-50 minutes. STEP 9:While galette is baking, make whipped cream.

Serves 6-8

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STEP 2: In a large bowl, strain the heavy whipping cream through a fine mesh sieve to remove most of the chamomile tea. STEP 3: With a hand mixer, whip on high to stiff peaks. Add honey and powdered sugar. Whip again on high until totally incorporated, 30 seconds to 1 minute. STEP 4: Remove galette from oven, let cool 10 minutes and set. Dollop with whipped cream. Brush with powdered sugar.

EDIBLE DRINKS

flowers, always Floral Sangria

750 1 ¼ 10 ½ 1 1

INGREDIENTS:

DIRECTIONS:

ml sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio cup St. Germain (elderflower liqueur) cup Cointreau (orange-flavoured triple sec) strawberries, sliced pint raspberries orange, sliced lemon, sliced Edible flowers

STEP 1: Wash all the fruit, then slice and cut into small pieces. STEP 2: Add the white wine, elderflower liqueur, fruit and Cointreau to a large pitcher. STEP 3: Place the sangria in the refrigerator to infuse the flavors for anywhere from an hour to overnight, depending on how much time you have and how fruity you want the flavor. STEP 4: Add the edible flowers and ice cubes before serving. Can be stored in the refrigerator up to 3 days. TIP: Make floral ice cubes to add more beauty to this drink.

SPRING 2022

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For Organic Use • OMRI.org

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Bolles Nursery

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12090 Fernwood Drive Madera, CA 93636 (559) 645-7677

Frantz Wholesale Nursery 12161 Delaware Road Hickman, CA 95323 (209) 874-1459

Gazebo Gardens

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Hofmans Nursery 12491 W Lacey Blvd. Hanford, CA 93230 (559) 582-1805

Jensen & Pilegard

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Luis’ Nursery

139 S Mariposa Avenue Visalia, CA 93292 (559) 747-5015

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Robby’s Nursery & Landscape 4002 Terracotta Court Bakersfield, CA 93314 (661) 588-0859

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1007 Tahoe Street Merced, CA 95348 (209) 384-0513

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Three Rivers Mercantile

1837 Patterson Rdoad Riverbank, CA 95367 (209) 527-5553

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Thompson Building Materials & Nursery

460 South Stockton Avenue Ripon, CA 95366 (209) 599-4543

Westurf Nursery 1612 Claus Rdoad Modesto, CA 95355 (209) 576-1111

White Forest Nursery 300 Morning Drive Bakersfield, CA 93306 (661) 366-6291

Willow Gardens Nursery 10428 N Willow Avenue Clovis, CA 93619 (559) 299-5402