JOE'S BAKERY

THIS EAST AUSTIN BORN-AND-BRED RESTAURANT IS BOTH A “UNICORN” AND A 2023 JAMES BEARD AWARD WINNER

WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH | PHOTOS BY RALPH YZNAGA

In the Local Legends series, we shine the spotlight on a restaurant that’s been serving the community for more than three decades. These iconic spots have become part of the fabric of our shared culture, with multiple generations of Central Texans able to fondly reflect upon memories made at these beloved eateries. In a rapidly growing and changing region, they’ve stood the test of time. Yet, they still need our support so that they can be enjoyed by future generations. It’s time to rediscover the restaurants that keep our communities authentic, vibrant and resilient.

For 61 years, Joe’s Bakery & Coffee Shop has been serving the East Austin community with passion and intention. When you step into Joe’s, you’re welcomed into the Avila family’s home, surrounded by the aroma of fresh tortillas, Mexican spices and baked goods, but also by that inviting and instantly familiar feeling of belonging.

Don’t be misled by the name — Joe’s Bakery is a women-led family business.

“People come in looking for Joe, or a man behind the business, but it’s the women who are steering the ship,” says Regina Estrada, general manager and director of operations.

Joe and Paula Avila opened Joe’s Bakery & Coffee Shop in 1962, but it’s now their daughters — Rose Ann and Carolina — and granddaughter — Regina — who manage the restaurant.

Joe’s started as a small neighborhood bakery anchored by family values, welcoming people of all backgrounds to pull up a chair and grab a delicious, traditional Mexican American style breakfast, lunch or afternoon treat. It wasn’t long before they were known for their tortillas, tacos, cookies and numerous other specialties and baked goods. Beyond the can’t-help-yourself-but-have-one-more food, they’re also known for their devotion to community service and for upholding authentic East Austin tradition. “When people walk in, it’s a little glimpse of what East Austin used to be,” says Estrada. “We’re a testament and a looking glass into what made people fall in love with East Austin.”

It's by staying true to their values, honoring their grandparents’ wishes and grandfather’s legacy and embracing a tight-knit, small family dynamic that Estrada credits for Joe’s long history as a well-loved community gathering place. “We stay true to our roots and there’s a lot of intent that goes into everything we do,” she says.

This summer, Joe’s Bakery will receive the prestigious America’s Classic Award from the James Beard Foundation, an honor bestowed upon just six locally-owned restaurants across the U.S. each year that are, according to the awards website, “… beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of the community.” The aforementioned approach to values-driven business has helped lead them here.

Although she refers to herself as director of operations, Estrada takes on a multitude of responsibilities from PR and community outreach to product orders, quality control and menu design. The way she approaches the business seems fairly organic — she lets her curiosity and passion drive her from one area of focus to the next.

Like her mother, aunt and grandparents, Estrada was born and raised in East Austin. She grew up around the restaurant, but didn’t necessarily have her sights set on running the family business. Estrada went to college at Texas State University, studying political science and minoring in business. After graduating, she moved back home from San Marcos to figure out what she wanted to do next. She started dabbling in the family business, designing the restaurant’s first website and t-shirt.

Estrada became more involved as she followed her creativity, “I was able to explore my ideas and move forward with them. It was ingrained in me to just get involved and start small, and it just kinda grew from there.” She’s been able to grow and evolve in her more than 20 years working at the restaurant, infusing some of her political science background into community engagement efforts such as Joe’s’ “Eat Tacos and Vote!” event. Estrada is passionate about voter registration, education and drives, which customers may notice as the restaurant sometimes serves as a venue for these initiatives. She’s also opened the restaurant as a platform for neighborhood church groups and Girl Scout troops. “One of the simplest things businesses can do,” she says, “is welcome the community and stay connected with community groups.”

While Estrada oversees much of the business side of the restaurant, her mom, Rose Ann, oversees all of the financials and numbers, and her aunt, Carolina, who has worked at the restaurant the longest, manages the kitchen. Estrada’s grandmother and Joe’s co-founder Paula has been retired for several years. In talking to Estrada, one gets a sense that they are all very close. “I put everything into my work — for my aunt, my mother and my grandmother,” she shares. “We find joy in each day.” Estrada has two daughters of her own, and also appreciates that working in a family business has provided her with the flexibility to put her daughters first.

What motivates them to continue opening their doors after 61 years? “It’s important to us to honor my grandparents. We know who we are and where we come from. We’re a Mexican American family and a Mexican American restaurant born and raised in Austin.” Estrada speaks with a contagious passion, “We’re a unicorn.” She says she feels it is a blessing to work with family and be part of a family business with such a longstanding history, and feels a responsibility to continue to represent East Austin heritage. One can’t help but think also of how the term “unicorn” is used to refer to native Austinites, or even the mythical creature. Like a unicorn, Joe’s is rare, magical and uniquely Austin.

Order Up!

Something Savory: If you want the tried-and-true customer favorites, Regina Estrada recommends the carne guisada tacos, migas, bean and egg tacos, menudo — beef tripe and hominy cooked in spices and served with flour and corn tortillas, lemon and onion — and really anything involving their house-made tortillas or bacon-infused beans. Breakfast is served all day.

Something Sweet: Don’t walk away before visiting the bakery to choose from a vibrant array of conchas, “pink cake” (yellow cake with pink icing), a customer favorite pumpkin empanada or classic yellow and red sugar cookies, packed with nostalgia in each bite. Joe’s spends each afternoon baking treats to serve fresh the next morning.

Visit Joe’s Bakery at 2305 E. 7th Street. Learn more about their history, and see their “Memory Gallery” featuring family photos through the years, at joesbakery.com.

Left Page, Top: The famous facade

Left Page, Bottom: Breakfast all day

Right Page, Top: Happy diners

Right Page, Bottom: Regina and Rose Ann

Stacey Ingram Kaleh is a native Texan and writer and editor for Edible publications When she’s not eating at local restaurants and drinking Texas wine, she’s spending time outdoors in the Hill Country with her husband and two young daughters and soaking up as much live music and art as possible.