edible Baja Arizona - September/October 2014 by Edible Baja Arizona

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September/October 2014 • Issue No. 8 • GRATIS

edible BAJA ARIZONA

BAJA A RIZONA

Celebrating the foodways of Tucson and the borderlands.

COFFEE · TEA · TEPACHE No. 8 September/October 2014

HOTEL CONGRESS BREATHES HISTORY · HOWARD BUFFETT’S BIG IDEA A JOURNEY OF SEVEN CUPS · LOCALIZED COFFEE · TEPACHE & TESGUINO Barney Burns 1945-2014

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Contents

6 GRIST FOR THE MILL

7 IN MEMORIAM: BARNEY BURNS

September - October 2014

8 SUSTAINING WATER Water rationing for farmers will threaten our region’s food security.

12 VOICES What makes your Sonoran hot dog the best in town? 16 GLEANINGS Scraps on Scraps closes the circle; Home cooking from Bisbee’s Café Cornucopia; Dessert comes with a dose of nutrition at Cashew Cow. 33 PLATE That one thing they should never take off the menu. 35 KIDS’ MENU Mixing it up with Haile Thomas. 39 EDIBLE HOMESTEAD In the garden, modern meets classic; Grow food with graywater; Animal processing for homegrown meat. 52 IN THE BUSINESS Kira Dixon-Weinstein, the executive director of Mercado San Augustín, is working to create a sense of Tucson at the market. 56 TABLE At the Café at the YW, sandwiches and espresso are part of an enterprise intended to build more than just lunch. 64 POLICY By adopting water saving techniques, urban food producers can maximize our region’s increasingly scare water resources. Above: Will Seberger took this photograph, as well as the those accompanying the Café Justo article on page 92. Tucson lost a talented journalist and photographer when, on August 17, 2014, Will died unexpectedly. He was 33. On the cover: Illustration of tepache fermenting in a jar by Sara Zin.

70 FORAGE On the quest for the perfect wild mushroom, don’t forget to make sure it’s also edible. 76 PURVEYORS As concern about GMOs grows nationally, three Tucson businesses have decided to stop serving some genetically modified ingredients. 82 LA FRONTERA En Nogales, distintas generaciones juntas reviven tradiciones alimentarias de antaño.

Features 108 THE PRICE OF TEA IN CHINA At Seven Cups Tea House, owners Austin & Zhuping Hodge connect specialty tea growers in China directly with sippers in Tucson. 116 FEED THE WORLD On his Willcox test farm, philanthropist Howard Buffett is studying soil and conserving water, hoping to find a way to grow food better. 126 HOTEL CONGRESS BREATHES HISTORY Nearly a century after it opened—30 under the ownership of Richard and Shana Oseran—there’s a little bit of Hotel Congress for everyone.

88 HABITAT The pivotal role of southern Arizona foodscapes in bee and butterfly recovery. 92 DRINK Agua Prieta-based Café Justo partners with growers in Chiapas, Mexico, to sell coffee that’s just for all. 100 DRINK Can coffee be local? Exo Roast Co. is trying to bring a taste of the desert to our favorite far-flung beans. 140 SABORES DE SONORA Exploring the fermented beverages of Mexico. 148 BUZZ Discerning the language of taste. 162 INK 167 SOURCE GUIDE 178 LAST BITE Gary Patch’s story of the renegade in his back yard.

edible Baja Arizona

“TO SEE THINGS IN THE SEED, THAT IS GENIUS.” —LAO TZU

GRIST FOR THE MILL

edible BAJA ARIZONA

“I see that the life of this place is always emerging beyond expectation or prediction or typicality, that it is unique, given to the world minute by minute, only once, never to be repeated. And this is when I see that this life is a miracle, absolutely worth having, absolutely worth saving. We are alive within mystery, by miracle.” —Wendell Berry

between this issue and the previous involved the loss of several friends and colleagues, with two of them directly related to Edible Baja Arizona. Our dear friend Barney Burns, a co-founder of Native Seeds/SEARCH, died during the last few days of production of this issue, as did photojournalist Will Sebeger, who contributed photos to accompany the story about Café Justo. Take a moment to appreciate this “mystery, by miracle” that is this fleeting human existence. Food security is linked to many things, but first and foremost, it’s all about water. In an editorial, Gary Nabhan and Rafael de Grenade discuss this summer’s sobering news from water management experts about the impacts of the continued devastating drought in the West. As the editorial states, we are diminishing our own food production capacity to feed ourselves every time we permanently remove water from foodscapes to support growth in our urban hardscapes. As important as water is to agriculture, the role of bees and other flying pollinators is equally critical. Gary Nabhan reports that, here in Baja Arizona, scientists, farmers, vineyards, orchard keepers, and ranchers are helping lead the way to provide solutions to the global pollinator crisis. Megan Kimble pays a visit to philanthropist Howard Buffett’s test farm near Willcox, where the Midwestern farmer is studying soil and conserving water, hoping to find a way to grow food better. As Calexico’s Joey Burns remarks, Hotel Congress has become almost a shrine. We celebrate 30 years of creativity and serendipity at this nearly century-old Downtown landmark, which has flourished in so many amazing ways under the stewardship of Richard and Shana Oseran. We want Edible Baja Arizona to reflect the community we live in—one that speaks, eats, and thrives in both Spanish and English, so we’re pleased to publish Lourdes Medrano’s Spanishlanguage feature about a community convening around healthy food in Nogales, Arizona. You can find the English translation on our website. There is so much more in this issue: stories on coffee cooperative Café Justo and Tucson roaster Exo; the fascinating story of Seven Cups, a tea company based in Tucson; how to make the fabled fermented drinks tepache and tesguino; mushroom foraging; the best Sonoran hot dogs. A quick shout out to our advertising sales staff: Kenny Stewart (known to many as “Arizona’s only certified sommelier and working magician”) is our Cochise and Santa Cruz county representative. Paco Cantu is working here in Tucson. We say adios to our friends Becky Reyes and Stephanie Chace. As always, we are in awe of the support we receive from the business community. Please make it a point to let our advertisers know how much you appreciate their contribution to the local economy. They enable us to bring you this magazine every eight weeks. We’ll see you around the table. ¡Salud!

EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

Douglas Biggers

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Jared R. McKinley

MANAGING EDITOR

Megan Kimble

he InteRVAL

We want Edible Baja Arizona to reﬂect the community we live in—one that speaks, eats, and thrives in Spanish and English

—Douglas Biggers, editor and publisher 6 September - October 2014

ART DIRECTOR

Steve McMackin

SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Gary Paul Nabhan COPY EDITOR

Ford Burkhart

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Katy Gierlach

ADVERTISING CONSULTANTS

Paco Cantu, Kenny Stewart CONTRIBUTORS

Emily Gindlesparger, Haile Thomas, Merrill Eisenberg, Alicynn Fink, Lee Allen, Lourdes Medrano, Melissa Diane Smith, Kati Standefer, Fernanda Echavarri, Renee Downing, Lloyd Charles, Dave Mondy, Bill Steen, Erik Ryberg, Jeﬀ Sanders, Lisa Shipek PHOTOGRAPHERS & ARTISTS

Dominic Bonuccelli, Michael Falconer, Haile Thomas, Liora K, Tim Fuller, Robert J Long, Steven Meckler, Jeﬀ Smith, Bill Steen, Danny Martin, Molly Kiely, Austin Hodge, Will Seberger, Donna DeConcini, Sara Zin WE’D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU.

307 S. Convent Ave., Barrio Viejo Tucson, Arizona 85701 520.373.5196 info@edibleBajaArizona.com EdibleBajaArizona.com

Volume 2, Issue 2. Edible Baja Arizona (ISSN 2374-345X) is published six times annually by Coyote Talking, LLC. Subscriptions are available for $36 annually by phone or at EdibleBajaArizona.com. Copyright © 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without the express written permission of the publisher. Research and community outreach for Edible Baja Arizona is cosponsored and funded by the W.K. Kellogg program in Borderlands Food and Water Security at the University of Arizona.

IN MEMORIAM

Dr. Barney T. Burns Native Seeds/SEARCH co-founder passes on, leaving us a legacy of hope and humor. by Gary Paul Nabhan

n the second week of August, the Tucson community, the greater Southwest, indigenous peoples, and farmers everywhere lost a good friend, an extraordinary seed saver, and a historian of Southwest food and farming folkways. He was also a patron saint to the founders of Edible Baja Arizona. Dr. Barney T. Burns, 69, was far more than a co-founder of Native Seeds/SEARCH. He spent more than four decades linking native farmers and artisans to the communities, human rights support networks, and applied scholars that cared about them and their future. Trained as an archaeologist, dendrochronologist, climate scientist, and ethnohistorian, Barney knew more about northwest Mexico than anyone I have ever known, through both his firsthand experiences and his readings. He maintained one of the most extensive libraries of borderlands archives and rare books I have ever seen. But if this suggests that Barney was a stuffy scholar, nothing could be further from the truth. With a wry sense of humor, fun-loving trickery, and shaggy-dog storytelling, Barney amazed nearly every soul that ever traveled or dined with him. From the days when he was growing up in Carlsbad, New Mexico, in the ‘50s, to his very last days in the Tucson Mountains, Barney had a museum curator’s penchant for collecting and documenting the material cultures of our region. It was as if he were on some wild adventure to rediscover the Holy Grail. His work benefited far more people than most of us will ever know. He and his wife and traveling companion, Mahina Drees, kept hundreds of Tarahumara families alive during some of the worst droughts their land had ever witnessed. Rather than simply offering handouts of one-time food relief, Barney

and Mahina helped provide income through crafts sales, reintroducing lost seeds, sponsoring ecological restoration, and water-harvesting projects, and building a network of support for livable wages. They were also instrumental in efforts to stop World Bank-funded intrusions of highways, sawmills, and mines into the Sierra Tarahumara in the ‘90s, when no one thought that little Davids could ever scare away such a Goliath. As co-founders of Native Seeds/ SEARCH, Barney and Mahina assembled most of its original seed collections, and continued to serve on the board for more than another quarter century. As a compiler and co-author of the book The Other Southwest, and many journal articles, and chapters in anthologies, Barney made a unique contribution to ethnohistorical and ethnobotanical scholarship as well. Much of Barney’s work the last half of his life was done in tandem with his partner, Mahina, singer-songwriter, nonprofit activist, seed saver, and garden educator. Together they must have traveled more than a hundred thousand miles into remote villages on both sides of the border. No two people have worked harder to ensure an agriculturally diverse future for our region, and no one could have ever done it with as much adventurousness, hilarity, and joy as Barney and Mahina have done. Each of them deserves to be regarded as true keepers of the multicultural heritage of the borderlands, and Barney will be deeply and immediately missed by hundreds of his Raramuri, Yoreme, Mormon, Guarijio, Nde, O’odham, Mexican, and Yori friends. Adios, amigo. See you under the Sacred Tree on the other side of the Desert River. ✜

edible Baja Arizona

EDITORIAL

Sustaining Water Water rationing for farmers will threaten our region’s food security. By Gary Paul Nabhan and Rafael de Grenade

farming in southern Sonora. his summer , regional As a result, Yaqui women have water planners antaken to the streets, banging nounced a game-changcooking spoons against comales er for Arizona’s economy and to protest the loss of irrigation already-fragile food security water needed to irrigate crops status. As early as 2017, we are to feed their families. likely to see the rationing of rivTo the west, in drought-raver irrigation water available for aged California, irrigation Arizona agriculture as a result water prices have risen in less of the pervasive drought that than five years from $320 an has plagued the Colorado River acre foot to as much as $2,000 watershed for most of the last an acre foot. Last year, Cal15 years. Planners concede that ifornia farmers, orchardists, Arizona’s farms irrigated from and vintners lost $1.7 billion canals coming off the Colorado in reduced yields, resulting and its tributaries could lose in 15,000 jobs lost from their as much as 60 percent of their state’s agricultural sector. share of water over the next In New Mexico, pecan and decade. That’s not all. By 2026, chile farmers who historically mandatory water rationing may received enough river water constrain urban food production for eight to 10 annual crop in both Tucson and Phoenix, as Lake Mead’s “bathtub ring” is caused by water levels that have dropped irrigations are now receiving it has already done in nine other 145 feet below their peak of 1,225 in 1983. Water rationing is just one irrigation’s worth of Southwestern cities. triggered at 1,075 feet. water from Elephant Butte Despite this startling news, Reservoir. And so they have many Arizonans continue to see begun drilling hundreds of new wells, many of them with water few connections between climate change and water and food so salty that scientists are concerned about generating saline security in the state, since they assume that we will always be soil crusts and diminished yields. able to “outsource” our food from Mexico and California at afWith 38 percent of the lower 48 states suffering from fordable prices (98 percent of the food we eat in Arizona today drought, heat waves, and water shortages that point to accelcomes from other states). But we are soon likely to see skyrockerating climate change, there will soon be few places in North eting food prices for those “nutritional imports,” as farmers in America from which Arizonans can access fresh, affordable neighboring states are already facing the consequences of water food. Water and fossil fuel prices have increased farmers’ proscarcity. duction costs to the degree that climate change has become a To the south of us, Sonoran agriculture has been hit with droughts so devastating there is now a political war over urban Para leer este artículo en español, versus agricultural water allocation. Hermosillo has initiated visite EdibleBajaArizona.com. interbasin water transfers of river supplies formerly reserved for 8 September - October 2014

key factor in raising the prices of nutritious foodstuffs out of reach of the poor. As we remain woefully unprepared for the impacts of accelerated climate change on our food supply, we must realize that “food outsourcing” is becoming a less viable option than ever before. In Baja Arizona, much of our agricultural water goes toward growing cotton, livestock forages, and nuts for export rather than for food that remains in the state. As many of our farmers cling to producing crops that don’t directly feed us, groundwater levels in the Upper Santa Cruz River Basin have been dropping an average of two feet per year. At the same time, Lake Mead and Lake Powell are holding less than 45 percent of their historic volumes. Between 2007 and 2012, as urban and suburban growth usurp water formerly dedicated to crop production, Arizona lost 112,000 acres in irrigated farmlands. In the Green Valley farmscape, agricultural production is likely to forfeit roughly 10,000 acre feet over the next decade, while urban water consumption will rise by that same amount over the same period. We are diminishing our own food production capacity to feed ourselves every time we permanently remove water from foodscapes to support growth in our urban hardscapes. We are not suggesting that Baja Arizona’s farmers and gardeners be allowed to use as much water as they wish. On the contrary, they must be given financial incentives and technical guidance in adopting water saving strategies. As Cochise County farmer and philanthropist Howard Buffett recently told us, “I don’t believe there should be a single acre of flood irrigation [for row crops] in Arizona. If we fully adopt drip and center-pivot systems, it is realistic for Arizona farmers to cut their water waste in half.” While Buffett has already implemented water-saving technologies such as drip irrigation, modified center-pivot irrigation, laser leveling, and crop rotations as part of his suite of solutions, others are working to better use rainwater, graywater, and stormwater. Still others look to desert-adapted seedstocks, selected or bred by farmers themselves, as ways to forge lasting solutions. No single solution is enough to reduce the total amount of water “embedded” in every link in the food supply chain—to cut water waste and to grow lasting solutions. Isn’t it time that we face the water scarcity in our midst, and foster a culture that values water conservation and food security? Is it possible to better utilize our desert-adapted food biodiversity to alleviate the poverty and hunger that still plagues so many southern Arizonans? We need to challenge the economic and political forces that have led us to pretend we do not already have an unsustainable water supply, and to find ways to better grow, distribute, and utilize the foods of this place without excessive water waste. ✜ Gary Paul Nabhan is author of Growing Food in a Hotter, Drier Land. Rafael de Grenade is the author of Stilwater: Finding Wild Mercy in the Outback. They both work on water and food security issues at the University of Arizona, through the Southwest Center and the Udall Center for Studies in Public Policy, respectively.

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Baja Arizona 9

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VOICES

What makes your Sonoran hot dog the best in town? Interviews & Photography by Dominic AZ Bonucelli

12â&#x20AC;&#x192; September - October 2014

Karamelo King • 3752 E. Grant Road

Ruiz Hot Dogs • 22nd St. & Sixth Ave. Interview with Alejandro Maciel

e’ve been making Sonoran hot dogs since 2001. There was no one else on this side of the town, which is why we decided to put it here. We sell tacos and hot dogs. I think our hot dogs are special because of the quality of the food. The vegetables are good. We toast the bread and put cheese inside so it melts. Some people like it with two hot dogs inside the bun. Some people like mayo and mustard at the bottom of the bread. People like it all kinds of ways. We’ll make it the way you want it.

e’ve been here at Sixth and 22nd for five years. Here we give good service to our customers and always good presentation on our hot dogs. We put everything on it, because that’s what our customers like. What makes ours special is that we toast the bun, which not everyone does now. Other places are finally getting the hang of it and toasting it now. But the moment we started the cart, we toasted the buns. Butter and toast. We put the basics—beans, onion, tomato, the sauce, mustard, mayo, whatever makes it looks good. I come from a place where we eat a lot of tacos. Sonoran dogs come from Sonora, which is Mexico, but with the hot dog, you get something different. It’s not like we’re always eating the same thing over and over. It’s something different.

Interview with Rafael Gastelum

El caramelo means steak quesadilla in Spanish. I don’t know who called a quesadilla a caramelo but it’s a quesadilla with cheese and steak. We can put chicken or steak, or both. We have a lot of customers from the University of Arizona. Sometimes on Friday and Saturday night it gets crazy at 2 a.m. But it’s nice to have those customers.

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El Manantial Tacos y Hotdogs • Park Ave. & 36th St.

El Sinaloense #5 • 1526 N. Alvernon Way

e moved to Tucson from Oregon 11 years ago. I’ve been working here since I was 8 and now I’m almost 20. We have a lot of customers that we know by name because they like to come here all the time. A manantial is kind of like a hot spring. When we first moved here, there was a Mexican soap opera with the same name. I guess it just rang with my dad. When we make our hot dogs, we try to make sure that the ingredients we put in it are spread across the whole hot dog. I’ve gone to other hot dog stands, I won’t say any names, and let’s say one corner of the hot dog has the beans, and the other corner has the onion, so you don’t get the flavor all at the same time. We like to take our time and spread out everything. One of our signature things is the bacon-wrapped chiles. We put cheese and then we wrap in bacon and it comes free with every hot dog. People come here and get two hot dogs and a soda for $6 and they leave happy.

e’ve been selling hot dogs for five years. There’s also El Sinaloense #1 that’s been going for 10 years. There are five of us around town. Same name; different truck. Other people come and they say, “I like your hot dogs, they’re the best in town.” I tell them, “Well that’s my job.” You come in to my job, I’ll make you the best hot dogs, and you’re living happy, you know?

Interview with Alejandro Gonzalez

14 September - October 2014

Interview with Alberto Estrada

All the time people come here and they say, I tried this other place but I like it more here. I don’t know why. It’s the same hot dog and the same bun, because we buy it in the same store. But maybe here, we get everything fresh, every day. Tomato, onion, the wiener. Every day. I like my dogs with beans, fresh onions, tomato, mayo, mustard, jalapeño sauce. And the yellow pepper on the side. I toast the bread with butter. It’s very good. Maybe that’s why people like it here.

Aqui Con el Nene • Wetmore Road & Flowing Wells Road Interview with Walter Urebe

El Güero Canelo • 5201 S. 12th Ave.

e’ve been making Sonoran hot dogs for nine years. My cousin started the business. We have a lot of return customers. A lot of American customers and Mexicans, too. When people from Mexico come to shop, they stop by the mall, and buy some hot dogs. We had a little stand in Mexico, too. That’s where we came from. Our special hot dog is the chipilón style, which comes with toasted bread. We have good ingredients. We make a special sauce—we have something special in everything we make. We put beans, green onions, red onions, tomato, mayonnaise, mustard, jalapeño sauce. Yellow pepper on the side. All the hot dogs come wrapped in bacon. When you order chipilón style, we put cheese on the bread, put it on the grill to toast the bread, and melt the cheese, and then put on all the stuff after that. All my food is fresh. All day, we make it fresh.

e’ve been making hot dogs for 20 years—it’s a family restaurant. Sonoran hot dogs are how we got famous. They’re the best ones in town—they’re really good. What makes them different? The taste. The way we do it. Bread, bacon, beans, onions, tomatoes, mayonnaise, mustard, jalapeño sauce. That’s the way that it’s good. We give customers the option if they want to toast their bread. They can order it just the way they like it. We have a lot of Mexican customers. They like it because we’re Sonoran. There are a lot of people from Sonora here. People come here because they feel like they’re at home. They eat a hot dog and probably they’re transported back to Mexico. When I eat a Sonoran dog, I like to toast the bread and put some mayo, put the wiener, and then beans, onion, and a lot of mayo. No mustard, no jalapeño. I’m Mexican, but I don’t like chile.

Interview with Daniela Arballo

edible Baja Arizona

gleanings

Shannon Sartin, right, and her sister, Moira, provide customers with a Scraps on Scraps bucket to fill with compostable food scraps; every other week, they swing by to pick it up and drop off a clean one.

Food Scraps to Foodways Scraps on Scraps closes the circle. By Emily Gindlesparger | Photography by Steve McMackin

S hannon S artin can point to a specific moment when she realized she wanted to start a business from scraps. A year ago, when she had just relocated from eco-friendly Seattle, “I had this epiphany moment standing over a garbage can and a recycling bin with a banana peel [in hand] going, ‘Where does it go?’” In most cities, it goes in the landfill—and it adds up. According to the EPA, the average person throws out 1,500 pounds of waste per year, an estimated 950 pounds of which is compostable. So Shannon and her sister, Moira Sartin, decided to create an alternative option in Tucson. “Can you take something that would have otherwise been considered waste and turn it into a reusable byproduct?” Shannon says. “If you can utilize it to do something else then you’re closing that circle.” Banana ucsonan

16 September - October 2014

peels into Tucson gardens. Thus, Scraps on Scraps was born. The idea is simple: provide customers with a bucket and a smell-tight lid to keep under the kitchen sink. The Sartin sisters come by every two weeks to pick up full buckets and drop off clean ones. At $13 a month (or $7 if you meet them at the farmers’ market), it’s a convenient option to make composting accessible. “So many people wanted to make a difference, but they didn’t know where to start or didn’t have the space or the time,” Moira says. “I am in that middle-of-the-line demographic,” Shannon adds. “I’m too busy—I work full time and I’m a mom, and I have a business. I don’t have time go out and turn my compost pile and worry about what it’s doing, but at the same time I want to make that choice to be green, and I want to make that choice to

g do right for my daughter and for future generations. I think it’s important to make sure there’s someone catering to that.” After picking up buckets, the sisters take the scraps—25 pounds per bucket, roughly 650 pounds from each customer per year—to be composted. Originally they sent the scraps to Compost Cats, but they’re working on an independent option to expand their reach to apartment complexes and businesses. The sisters are focused on making their mission even bigger by distributing compost to communities with food insecurity through the Community Food Bank’s farm, Las Milpitas de Cottonwood, and others. Customers can even drop off cans of food for donation with their scraps. “We started initially with ‘Oh, we’re just going to keep stuff out of the landfill,’” Shannon says. “But it just kept coming back to this food security issue, and this thing we could do through essentially taking that compost and making sure it’s doing good. We live in Arizona; we don’t need more lawns, we need more gardens.” She hopes Scraps on Scraps will begin a dialogue about urban composting and sustainability. She’s getting her wish: when Shannon’s daughter, Chloe, saw her grandmother throwing something out, she stopped her in her tracks with “Grandma, that’s compostable.” “You realize that for a kid, when it’s just there, it’s this intrinsic knowledge,” Shannon says. “Chloe is always going to be like, ‘That’s compostable.’ That’s a huge thing for us. We’re making sure that when those kids are 35, everything underneath us is not a landfill.” One bucket at a time. ScrapsOnScraps.com

Frozen Happiness Dessert comes with a dose of nutrition at Cashew Cow.

“I

ce cr eam needs to be a bang,” Jeremy Shockley says. “Override your cerebral cortex and go straight to the limbic and reptilian systems and say, ‘You need to consume this.’” And miraculously, after three and a half years of experimentation, Shockley has figured out how to do this with a bucket of cashews. Along with business partner Jennifer Newman, he created Cashew Cow from the idea that although ice cream is an “emotional product,” something we all turn to for indulgence, it doesn’t have to be bad for you. That’s where the cashews come in. In the Cashew Cow parlor, newly opened in Broadway Village, they’re stoneground, mixed with a plant-based low-glycemic sweetener and mineralized water, homogenized and whipped in an industrial ice cream machine. Then the ice cream is put in a recycled sugar-cane-pulp cup and topped with a wooden spoon. “Here,” Shockley might say when he hands it to you. “I froze some happiness for you.”

18 September - October 2014

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Frozen happiness: Two scoops of cashew-based chocolate ice cream will have you screaming for more.

Newman admits that she knew the idea was a great one when she wanted to eat Shockley’s concoction instead of Häagen-Dazs. It’s exactly what Shockley had been going for. “We still hold super creamy dairy ice cream up as the gold standard,” he says, “and our idea is to capture that same spirit and not try to be different, but compatible.” Shockley can rattle off a laundry list of benefits of his handmade cashew-based cream. From the nut base to the raw ingredients that add flavor, “We make sure every component has a nutritive value,” he says. Also, as opposed to the conventional on-site pasteurization of dairy ice creams, their process doesn’t use high heat, which would break down the antioxidants in their ingredients. The resulting dessert contains heart-healthy fats, minerals, and fiber, and a nice dose of calcium along with niacin and tryptophan to boost seratonin. Newman translates: “What we’re trying to say is, eat our product all day long.” Shockley laughs and adds, “You may be immobile, but happy.” Cashew Cow. 520.344.2269. CashewCow.com.

Main Street Comfort Home cooking from Bisbee’s Café Cornucopia.

he nar row stor efront of Café Cornucopia elbows its way into the Main Street of Bisbee by the Copper Queen Library. Similarly, the pies, brownies and lemon bars crowd the counter inside. The patrons nudge

20 September - October 2014

Patty Fishlock says she loves the pace of Bisbee and the size of Café Cornucopia, where she can do all the cooking herself.

each other to get to them first in this cozy cafe that seats 25. It’s the perfect size, owner Patty Fishlock explains, to know everybody. With its classic boom-town architecture and home-style menu, Café Cornucopia fits perfectly in its little niche of Bisbee. The menu is simple and comforting: green chile quiche, meatloaf, fresh baked bread, and stews join at least one vegan special that Fishlock makes daily. Dishes make the rounds on the menu according to what she finds available in the markets of Tucson. (“If I see fresh corn in season, I can’t resist,” she says.) This is how the menu swings from lemon meringue pie to chicken tortilla soup on the hunch of what sounds good. If her regular customers have hankerings, they need only ask. That’s how Fishlock ended up making potato leek soup on a July afternoon after we spoke; some regular ladies who lunch at the cafe from their courthouse jobs had put in a special request. “If you just ask me,” Fishlock says, “I’ll make it. Unless I made it yesterday. It’s easy that way.” As Fishlock sees it, she’s keeping up the 20-year tradition of Café Cornucopia, a tradition established long before she bought it three years ago. “You don’t want to mess with a good business too much,” she says. Instead, she amended it, adding salads, pies, and cakes to the Bisbee fixture. It’s hard to resist the photos of freshly chilled cheesecake, or carrot cake dripping with orange glaze that she posts on the café’s Facebook page. But the best perk of Café Cornucopia’s compact size is that Fishlock can do all the cooking herself. When she and her husband stumbled into Bisbee on New Year’s Eve back in 2000, they fell in love with the relaxed atmosphere and perfect weather. They bought a piece of property “supposedly to retire,” Fishlock says, although they ended up permanently moving to Bisbee well before retirement. Now, Patty says, “I have the nicest bunch of customers. The people are rather laid back, which is refreshing after living in the city. It’s a nice little tight community.” It’s also a lovely vintage space to crowd into for a slice of cheesecake. ✜ Café Cornucopia. 14 Main St., Bisbee. 520.432.4820. 22 September - October 2014

Supplying Organic, Arizona Grown Apples, Citrus & Vegetables

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Producing Fresh, Local Juices & Cider

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24 September - October 2014

New ways to ﬁll your belly in the Old Pueblo tart saV inG your calories: Tucson Meet Yourself will once again fill downtown with local and international culture this Oct. 10 – 12. Known for presenting a wide variety of traditions to Tucson, the weekend-long festival has earned the unoﬃcial title of Tucson Eat Yourself for the variety and plethora of edible options offered. Indeed, this year 47 food vendors will fill the courtyard behind the historic courthouse on Church and Alameda. 47 Scott’s Travis Reese and Nicole Flowers have relaunched Saint House Rum Bar as Saint House Island Bistro & Rum Bar with a new happy hour, new menu, and an interior makeover. New menu item highlights include ceviche, street tacos, catfish and shrimp, citrus-cured conch chowder, seared ahi tuna salad, and passion fruit chicken. About the change, Reese said, “We wanted to create something a little more exotic and a lot more fun.” 245 E. Congress St. Metzger Family Restaurants, the restaurant group behind Gio Taco, Poppy Kitchen, the former Jax Kitchen, and The Abbey (of which ownership was recently transferred) will open Jackson Tavern in the fall. Located in the former Red Sky Cafe at 2900 N. Swan Road, in the recently renovated Plaza Palomino (just across the parking lot from Vero Amore), Jackson Tavern will feature New England-inspired cuisine consisting of classic tavern fare and modern interpretations. Metzger Family Restaurants also plans to open an outdoor Thrifty ice cream station called JT Shack adjacent to the restaurant. Goodness Juice Bar & Fresh Food has added an array of new menu items, including the standout Pink Dragon smoothie with dragonfruit, mango, banana, pineapple, coconut milk, kiwi, almonds, apricots, dates, coconut, mint, and agave. They’re also planning to open a second location on the ground floor of the new high rise student complex on Tyndall Avenue, just south of Mama’s Hawaiian BBQ. 2502 N. Campbell Ave. Tucson’s beloved Greek Festival will return after a fire at St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church scrapped last year’s

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A Tucson Chinese Cultural Center History Project

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Baja Arizona 25

plans. Classic Greek dishes such as souvlaki, spanakopita, baklava, and many more will be available along with music, dancing, and other festivities. Check out TucsonGreekFest. com for more information. Poco & Mom’s, the beloved New Mexico-style Mexican restaurant on S. Kolb Road will open a second location in early September inside the Santa Fe Square at 7000 E. Tanque Verde Road. If you’ve ever paid a visit to the Kolb Road location, the new Poco & Mom’s will be quite an improvement with a full bar, private banquet room, and spacious patio. While no menu changes are planned for location number two, business hours will be extended to 10 p.m. The paper backed windows stamped Proper Meatery on Congress Street next door to Proper will come down as Proper owner Paul Moir (and also of Flagstaff ’s Criollo and Brix) opens the doors to Proper Meats + Provisions in the fall. Fresh artisan meats, charcuterie, local cheeses, soups, and sandwiches will be available from the new butcher shop that promises, “a return to the artfulness of butchery and carefully curated products not commonly found on big-box grocery store shelves.” Northside tamale lovers, unite. Tucson Tamale will open a third location—their second location opened earlier this year—at 7286 N. Oracle near Ina in the former Jax Kitchen. Guests can watch tamale magic being made through a window opening the kitchen to the dining room. Tucson food truck Cheesy Rider will set up a permanent location at the Tucson Mall inside the food court. With plans to open on Sept. 8, the new location will add soups, salads, and Sonoran hot dogs. 4500 N. Oracle Road. ✜ Since 2009, Adam Lehrman as Tucson Foodie has provided options and information on a wide variety of topics pertaining to food in Tucson. Find him on the web at TucsonFoodie.com. 26 September - October 2014

Bisbee,Arizona Explore, Eat, Drink, S t a y, a n d B e H a p p y i n

THIN GS

Second Saturdays, 5-8pm – Bisbee After 5 ArtWalk - Discover Bisbee’s Vibrant Art Scene. Over 35 galleries and shops open • Every Saturday, 9am-1pm – Bisbee Farmers Market in Warren’s Vista Park • Wednesdays, 4-7pm – Midweek Organic Market the Gulch in Old Bisbee. Buy Local, eat organic and keep our community aLIVE • Sept. 12th-14th – 10th Annual Bisbee Blues Festival • Sept. 20th – Bazaar at St Patrick's parking lot in Old Bisbee • Sept. 20th, 9am-Noon – Bisbee 1000 Ironman Ice Competition • Oct. 3rd-12th, Fri. & Sat. 7:30 pm, Sundays 3 pm – Agnes of God Bisbee's Obscure Productions, Central School Project • Oct. 4th, 6:30pm – The Old Bisbee Ghost Hunt • Oct. 5th, 2-5pm – The

THIS

FALL

1st Annual Bisbee Music Hall of Fame at St. Elmos • Oct 9th, 5-9pm – The Pit Fire at Cochise College Douglas Campus • Oct. 10th, 9am (Museum members only) & 1 pm & Oct. 11th, 9am – The Hunt for Turquoise: A Rockhound’s Adventure • Oct 11th, 11am – Bisbee Rolling Arts Transport Society (B.R.A.T.S.)! "Watch art go down hill." • Oct. 11th – Beast Brewing Company 1 year anniversary celebration featuring beer, live music and food. Celebration will be all day with music acts at 2, 4 & 6 pm • Oct. 11th, 4-7pm – Vintage Bisbee hosted by the Bisbee Rotary Club. A wine and dining experience • Oct. 18th – The 24th Annual Bisbee 1000 Stair Climb & Craft Beer Festival • Oct. 25th, 9am-1pm – Bisbee Farmers Market

E X P L ORE

B ISB EE

Milling – Vista Park, Baja Arizona Sustainable Agriculture (BASA) • Oct. 25th – Halloween Street Dance at Copper Queen Hotel • Oct. 25th – Harvest Festival at Echoing Hope Ranch in Hereford AZ. Music, food, & vendors to support our work with helping people with autism and other disabilities • Oct. 31st – Halloween Paranormal Weekend • Nov. 1st – Community Montessori along with the Huachuca Astronomy Club, is hosting an Astrology Night - open to all the community! • Nov. 1-16th – Central School Project presents Dia De Los Muertos Show • Nov. 5-9th – Bisbee Film Festival: One People One Planet

BIS B E E

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E X P L ORE

BIS B E E

E X P L O RE

BIS B E E

s t a y

bis b e e

e a t & drink in bis b e e

e a t & d rink in bis b e e

KITCHEN DESIGN WITH COOKING IN MIND Stop in and see this working kitchen in our showroom

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Visit our Showroom M-F 8 to 5 Sat 10 to 4 2425 E. Ft. Lowell Rd. Tucson AZ 85719 520|325|6050 www.arizonadesigns.net

The Plate Plate the

That one thing they should never take oﬀ the menu.

1234 Photography by Michael Falconer

Seared Fig Tartine The Coronet

There’s something about cheese on toast that comforts. Comfort gets classy when it comes with seared figs, aged goat cheese, bacon, and house-made red onion jam. $10.50. 402 E. Ninth St.

Moqueca de Peixe Contigo Comida Latina

This traditional seafood stew from Brazil’s Bahia region comes with a blend of Old and New World flavors. Tomatoes, sweet potatoes, cilantro, coconut milk, peppers, seafood, and rice come stewed and simmered into the perfect union. $18. 1745 E. River Road

Charcuterie Plate Proper Tucson

The proper plate for nibbles—changes seasonally. Brandy poached apricots, black mission figs, smoked loin and coppa from the University of Arizona, Saucisson Sec sausage, Black Mesa Ranch “dutchess” aged goat cheese, black pepper, and parmesan lavosh. $15. 300 E. Congress St.

Chicken Tacos The B Line

We’re in a taco town, and everyone has their favorite joint. Consider a ride on the B Line for your next fix. Grilled chicken, chopped tomato, and jack cheese on soft flour tortillas topped with chimichurri sauce. Served with rice and beans. $9.95. 621 N. Fourth Ave.

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a tradition of inspiring excellence

f OR OVER 30 YEARS, The Gregory School has provided an unparalleled educational experience that goes beyond strong academics. The school creates a supportive community where pursuing individual passion is encouraged and a love for learning is fostered. Our students graduate with the confidence to succeed in college and beyond. OPEN HOUSE SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5 Please join us for an Upper School Open House (grades 9-12) on Sunday, Oct 5 at 1:00 pm. For more information: 520-327-6395.

Formerly St. Gregory College Preparatory School 3231 N. Craycroft Road, Tucson, Arizona www.GregorySchool.org

34 September - October 2014

KIDS’ MENU

Mixing It Up with Haile Thomas

comes rapidly to an end, I’m reflecting on the past two months of travel, swimming, rest and relaxation, family fun, cooking adventures, and lots of kids cooking classes. The recipe that was the hit of the summer—the one that was enjoyed the most by mini foodies (and even so-called “picky eaters”)—was my Zushi recipe. “Zushi” was born out of my love for sushi, for meals that are wrapped or rolled, and my desire to mix stuff up. So with the bounty of summer squash on hand, this super simple and flavor Photo by Steven Meckler

s my summer br eak

Haile Thomas is an eighth grader at St. Gregory College Preparatory School, a motivational speaker, and a young chef recently featured on the Food Network’s Rachael vs. Guy: Kids Cook-Off. Haile is the founder of the HAPPY Organization, which partners with the YWCA to offer kids cooking classes, fun physical activities, and nutrition education.

packed snack was created, tested, and approved by at least 50 kids and just as many adults. So what exactly is Zushi? It’s zucchini strips rolled up with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, and fresh thyme. I’m talking crisp, creamy, tangy, sweet and savory, all in one yummy bite! But don’t take my word for it. If you’ve got a few minutes to spare, you can make this whole recipe! Let me know what you think at KidFoodie.tumblr.com.

Zushi Ingredients: 1 yellow zucchini 1 green zucchini 2 tablespoons sun-dried tomatoes, minced 1 4 ounce pack goat cheese 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme Salt & pepper, to taste

Directions: Thinly slice zucchini and spread goat cheese onto one side. Add sun-dried tomatoes, and sprinkle with thyme, salt and pepper. Roll up and enjoy!

edible Baja Arizona

4th Avenue The Crazy Heart of Tucson SHOPPING • DRINKS • VINTAGE • FASHION • FOOD

[E DIBLE H OMESTEAD ]

In the Garden, Modern Meets Classic By Jared R. McKinley | Illustrations by Danny Martin

LTHOUGH I HAVE ALWAYS loved plants, growing up I used to think of common bedding plants like pansies and Johnny jump-ups, a miniature-ﬂowered pansy; petunias; and alyssum as old-fashioned and pedestrian. I was always more attracted to growing structurally exotic plants like cacti and succulents. (I came to Arizona to study those very same “exotic” plants, which happen to be native here, and have never left). Despite my enthusiasm for botany, when considering what plants were worth the expense of water (a very precious resource here), I decided that they should be edible. I am older now. Having spent many years working in plant nurseries and gardens, I would be a liar if I didn’t admit that when I go through the local nursery in September and smell the rich honey scent of alyssum, it does that thing—it hits me right in the gut. It’s fall, and I love it. I realize that I’ve missed those goofy little Johnny jump-ups. I remember how lovely snapdragons and stock

can be with their Impressionist spikes of uncool pastel colors. I even love seeing what new varieties are coming out each year. I also no longer think of those bedding plants as a waste of water, or as old fashioned or pedestrian. At least, when they are used intelligently. They serve as a reminder, along with all that’s happening out in the desert, that fall is here. And heck, the pansies are edible and the alyssum is great for pollinators, attracting lots of beneﬁcial insects. They partner well with the edible plants I am about to plant. And they’re pretty. And that has value. I am not forgetting about water. These sorts of plants, in my yard, are kept to the edible vegetable and herb garden, or in pots. And I apply the same water-saving methods (mulching, deeper watering, organic feeding) that I apply to the edible plants. I still plant native annuals and perennials over exotic bedding plants. But now I also indulge in the plants of my personal history.

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[E.H.] JACK FROST SENDS A POSTCARD

INALLY, FINALLY, FINALLY, we get a break in September and October. We get crisp-aired mornings. However hot it might remain at noon, winter sometimes reaches its arms into the fall, and with more than just cooler temperatures. Winter might just throttle your garden with a cold snap, so be prepared with your winter frost strategy. Have cloth coverings ready for plants you cannot move inside or to a safer spot in the yard, which will insulate the plants from frost. Plastic only works if the surface is not touching the plant through the use of a frame. Taking advantage of microclimates is another good frost-protection strategy. South-facing walls that receive sun all day create helpful microclimates for your more tender plants because, in the evening, they release heat that has been collecting all day. East-facing walls that aren’t shaded by a tree or another structure also work as they’re the ﬁrst to receive the sun in the morning. And it is also helpful to know that the most extreme part of a frosty night in a dry climate is just before the sun peeks over the horizon. That is when the most damage happens. But hey, this may be only a night or two in the next few months, maybe a few more in the higher elevations of our region. The fall is the second most gorgeous time in the garden (the most gorgeous goes to the spring). Most years, gardens look reinvigorated by fall. They lush up. And gardens get more attention because you want to be there. Spend your weekend in the yard. Get your grill out and grill up the last of the peppers and squash and eggplant before you yank those plants up to make room for cool-season crops.

D ISCERNMENT

F A CROP is still giving you something you really want, keep it. You might have a tomato that just keeps giving you delicious tomatoes until the frost knocks it out. But that squash plant might start to slow down its production. Or maybe you (and everyone you know) are totally tired of Armenian cucumbers. Pull those plants up and freshen up those beds with some manure and compost (either from your own compost pile or purchased at the nursery). Let’s face it: You were probably waiting to pull some of those plants out until it cooled oﬀ. It’s beautiful outside right now, especially in the morning. Get your butt out into the garden and start working that soil.

40 September - October 2014

BROWSE AND DREAM

HE BEST WAY to know what there is to grow is to do your homework. Of course, this is the sort of homework that is a pleasure. Order catalogs and familiarize yourself with the varieties available, new and old. Go to reputable nurseries regularly and walk the aisles. Grab the attention of a nursery employee and have them show you around. Often, they love to gab about plants and show you the gems. There are too many things to grow to list in a print magazine or even a book. Go explore.

W HERE DO I GET MY SEEDS & STARTS ?

ISIT ANY ONE of our local nurseries for plants, as they are most sensitive to what is in season and good for our area. In Tucson there are several excellent local nurseries (they’re worth a trip even if you don’t live here): Mesquite Valley Growers, Rillito Nursery, Civano Nursery, Silverbell Nursery, Magic Garden, Harlow Gardens, Green Things, and Desert Survivors. Diamond JK Nursery in Sonoita is ﬁrst-class too. Many vendors sell starts at farmers’ markets (you can ﬁnd some real gems there).

S EED COMPANIES

E HAVE TWO local seed companies in Tucson. You can visit them online or in town. Native Seeds/ SEARCH has a retail shop on Campbell. Westwind Seeds can be found at various farmers’ markets, such as the Heirloom Farmers’ Market on Sunday at Rillito Park. Other nonlocal companies oﬀer quality seed: Seed Savers Exchange, Baker’s Creek, Kitazawa Seed Company, Seeds from Italy, Southern Exposure, Terroir Seeds, The Cook’s Garden.

W ITHOUT A YARD

OT EVERYONE has a yard to garden in. This doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy gardening. If you have a patio with sunlight, you can grow most plants in a container. The bigger the container, the better your plants will grow. You can also join a local community garden. Visit Community Gardens of Tucson to ﬁnd out if there is one near you at CommunityGardensof Tucson. org. Consider volunteering at Mission Gardens, a living agricultural museum of Sonoran Desert-adapted heritage fruit trees, traditional local heirloom crops, and edible native plants.

[E.H.]

Plant Now In most areas of Baja Arizona you can plant through most of the winter, although in the cooler regions of our area, frost is harder on some crops. When it gets really cold, some seeds may take longer to germinate. But even in the coldest parts of our area, there is always something you can grow. ROOT VEGETABLES: Most root vegetables don’t need rich soil, but they do like it loose and well-drained. Some come up quickly and in abundance others take time to develop but are worth the trouble. Don’t forget many root crops make tasty greens too: carrots, beets, radishes, parsnips, turnips, root chicory, burdock, parsley root, celeriac, chicory root, salsify, scorzonera, and rutabagas.

local plant nursery: onions, shallots, garlic, elephant garlic, leeks, Egyptian walking onion, chives, Chinese chives (a diﬀerent species from regular chives), rakkyo onions, bunching onions. LEGUMES: Many beans are summer growers but a few love the cool season. All encourage healthy biology in the soil. Avoid planting next to root crops (the increase in nitrogen that legumes encourage discourages root development in root crops): garbanzo, fava, lentil, peas. Peas are also available in varieties that are used as greens. That is, you snip oﬀ the tips of shoots to eat raw or cooked. Delicious!

GREENS: Plant a diversity of greens. Plant them thickly and thin out as they develop into full heads. Save the seedlings you thin as microgreens for your daily salad: lettuce, arugula, mache, orach, cress (there are many types), miner’s lettuce, nasturtiums, spinach, chard, the leaf chicories (radicchio, escarole, endive, puntarelle, frisée), Asian greens (bok choy, Chinese mustard, stem lettuce, tatsoi, napa cabbage, mizuna and mibuna, garland greens), sorrel, celery. COLE CROPS: You might not know that most cole crops all belong to the same species, Brassica oleracea. But the diversity in ﬂavor and texture is amazing. Most of these plants need room to develop, so give them space: cabbage, broccoli and rapini, cauliﬂower, kale, Brussels sprouts, collards, kohlrabi. ALLIUMS: No household should be without some sort of onion or garlic. And there is such a variety to grow. With most alliums you can get sets (dried bulbs) or starts (small green bulbs usually sold in wrapped bunches). Some types of multiplier (spreading) or perennial alliums may be found potted and need a more permanent spot in your garden. You can start some from seed in late July or August for planting in September. All are available online or at your

successions as they ﬂower: parsley, dill, cilantro, chervil, fennel, borage, salad burnet, caraway, anise, lovage. Perennial herbs grow year round. Planting them in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before next summer. Give them room and know that where you put them is permanent. Spreading herbs like mint and oregano are best in pots because they can take over the whole garden bed. Some may slow down during the coolest part of winter: mint, oregano and marjoram, thyme, rosemary, sage, savory, rue, santolina. LARGER CROPS: Start plants that will be in a permanent spot in the fall to give the root system a chance to develop before the stress of summer. FRUIT TREES: Citrus of all types are good to plant right now. Most will need frost protection when the temperatures dip below 30 degrees. Be very careful not to let the root ball (the matrix of roots and soil that is in the container) fall apart when planting. Citrus do not like to have their roots disturbed.

OTHER VEGETABLES: Artichokes and cardoon can be planted now (leaves may be damaged from frost, but if you cover them, they will be fine for a nice spring yield). Asparagus is generally available now as crowns. Give them a permanent spot and wait at least a year and a half before you take any spears that arise in spring. They need their own bed. COOL-SEASON & PERENNIAL HERBS: Herbs are pungent in scent and flavor. And our strongest memories are tied to the sense of smell. Bring the best flavors into the garden with your herbs. Annual herbs will grow until they bolt (go to flower or seed). Plant new

OTHER FRUIT AND NUT CROPS: You can plant desert-adapted varieties of apple, peach, apricot, plum, almond, pecan, pluot, fig, quince, grapes, and more. Pay attention to how many chill hours some of these trees may need. There should be a label on the tree; the best nurseries have staff that can tell you what kinds of trees are best for your area as well as the advantages of some varieties over others. NATIVE CROPS: Don’t forget, especially if you have room, that there are lots of edible shrubs and trees native to Baja Arizona. And like the non-natives, they love to be planted in fall. Mesquite, ironwood, palo verde, jojoba, cholla, prickly pear, native oaks—attend any of the many workshops on native plants use offered this time of year to learn how to prepare our native crops. See page 50 for a list of classes.

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[E.H.]

Crop Favorites I’ITOI ’S O NION: THE B AJA A RIZONA SHALLOT

ASY TO GROW, this multiplier onion can be planted now in most parts of Baja Arizona and left to multiply and spread. Plants respond to moisture in both the warm and cool season and have more of a perennial habit than larger, bulb-forming onions. They also are proliﬁc; once they get going, you will have all you need. Be sure to lift

M IBUNA AND M IZUNA

IZUNA HAS BECOME a very popular plant. Finely textured and delicate but peppery, plants have feathery leaves up to 10 inches long; the rosettes (heads) can grow to about 18 to 20 inches wide. Mibuna is lesser known, with a slightly stronger flavor and rounded leaves. Plants grow to about one foot high, producing tight clusters of long, narrow leaves. It is very easy to grow and can be cut four or five times; the new growth is more resistant to frost and cold. Both plants can be enjoyed raw in salads or lightly cooked and seasoned. The leaves are also excellent for pickling. Mizuna and mibuna love the winter in most of Baja Arizona. Grow in an open, sunny position. If subjected to dry conditions, growth may appear stunted and plants will bolt prematurely. Soil should be moist—improve with well-rotted organic matter before sowing and planting. Water well, before the onset of drought. There is a risk of bolting in very hot dry conditions (when summer approaches). Plant in successions: as your first planting starts to mature, plant a new row to take its place so you have a steady supply of fresh plants.

HARVEST TIME plants every once in a while, divide, and harvest. Save some for replanting and eat the rest. They grow in full sun with few problems but can also take part shade. Plants may go dormant for a short spell in summer, or in the coldest part of the winter in the colder parts of our region. Individual bulbs will not get much larger than a shallot. Use the foliage, like chives, which are best harvested while plants are actively growing.

42 September - October 2014

T’S TIME to get creative. Frost is upon us. We aren’t always sure when. Sometimes it comes early and sometimes it comes late— whenever it arrives, it’s time to harvest the abundance your garden has produced. You can learn how to preserve your food through canning, drying, freezing, pickling, or storing—or you can just share your bounty with family, friends, or coworkers.

[E.H.]

PESTO

ASIL is such an easy crop to grow. If you have been diligent about pinching off the flowers and steadily watering and feeding, you may have more basil than it seems can be used. One method of preserving basil is making a ton of pesto and freezing it in several small plastic bags. Pesto is good on almost any food. Use it slathered on baked salmon; add for flavoring in your spaghetti sauce; or spread it on bread and make tomato sandwiches with fresh mozzarella. There are many recipes and permutations, but pesto is generally made of some ratio of macerated basil leaves, olive oil, some kind of nut, salt, some kind of dry cheese like Parmesan and garlic. While the traditional way to make pesto was with a mortar and pestle (hence, the name), you can also use a food processor or blender. The nuts can vary: pine nuts, hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds, and pecans. You will have to experiment to discover what ratio is best for you. Many like a heavy garlic flavor while others prefer a more dominant basil flavor. Some prefer a lot of salt, others less. Search online or in your favorite cookbooks for a recipe. Pesto stores for about a year if sealed well.

C HILE ROASTING

OTHING SAYS FALL like the smell of roasting chiles. Roasting brings out the sweet and savory ﬂavors of chiles while muting the bitter overtones. Once roasted, you can store them in the freezer to use whenever needed. Add roasted chiles to any Mexican dish instead of the canned chiles usually called for in recipes. Select the long, horn-shaped varieties like Anaheim, Hatch, poblano, New Mexico, or chilaca. You can roast them in the oven (use the broil setting) or on a settled but hot grill. Roast until the skins are blackened and blistered on both sides and immediately put into a closed paper bag (this steams and loosens the skin). When cool enough to handle, the skins should be easy to peel and discard. Store by freezing in small plastic bags. They can store for about a year in the freezer. A few precautions: some chiles are hotter than others, but you should always be mindful of what you do with your hands after handling chiles. Wear gloves while preparing them, or just wash your hands thoroughly and immediately after handling. Be aware that roasting chiles can sometimes cause coughing, as the capsicum in the air can irritate the throat and lungs. Open the windows when roasting inside, and if roasting outside, don’t hover over them. ✜ Jared McKinley is the associate publisher of Edible Baja Arizona.

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[E.H.]

Grow Food with Greywater Three Simple Systems for $50 or Less By Lisa Shipek

HEN YOU USE GREYWATER, you can turn the drudgery of household chores into gardening. My husband and I joke about doing dishes: “Whose turn is it to water the pomegranate?” I love hearing the sound of dishwater draining and knowing it’s going outside to our garden. We wash our dirty laundry in batches in the morning or evening hours—the best time to irrigate our fruit grove ﬁlled with Kino Heritage ﬁgs and pomegranates, peaches, and grapes. In the winter when some of the trees are dormant, the greywater grows gorgeous Sonoran wheat. Summer showers are my favorite—I bathe in my outdoor shower while enjoying the beauty of a huge Meyer lemon tree that is soaking up all my bath water. Added bonus—this outdoor shower doesn’t need to be scrubbed clean. By harvesting greywater to grow food, I am conserving our most precious resource and saving money on my water bill. You can start using greywater in your garden today. Here are three simple ways to begin using materials around your house or simple parts from a hardware store—all for less than $50.

BUCKET AND CHUCK I T

SE WASH BASINS that ﬁt in your sink for washing and rinsing dishes. Put a bucket in the shower to catch the extra water. Then carry the basin or bucket outside to water fruit trees, native edibles like wolfberries, or veggies where edible parts don’t touch the soil (or greywater). For best results, apply greywater to areas with organic mulch. It will absorb more quickly and reduce evaporation.

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HE EASIEST WAY to harvest greywater from your shower is to move your shower outside. All you need is a hose and a hose attachment with a shower head. Start by throwing the hose over a tree branch, fence, or trellis. Locate your shower near a fruit tree or native food-bearing plant like mesquite. Get creative with a privacy

44 September - October 2014

structure using recycled materials around your home. Again, organic mulch is essential—make sure to put down plenty around your outdoor shower and tree. No need for plumbing. The water will soak into the soil, and the roots of the nearby tree will tap into this new irrigation source.

AC AND EVAPORATIVE COOLER BLEED -O FF

HOUGH NOT technically greywater, both air conditioners and evaporative coolers produce water as a waste product that is safe to use in your garden. You can hook up a simple hose or PVC pipe and run the line to your garden. Direct the water to a basin with mulch to support any food-growing plants that need regular water throughout the hot season.

ONE OF THESE SYSTEMS require a permit, and most of the more complex residential greywater systems require only that you follow the best practices outlined by the Arizona Department of Environmental Quality. Learn more at harvestingrainwater.com/greywater-harvesting. Before you turn that wash water into garden irrigation, pay attention to your cleaning products. The right soap products can become a fertilizer instead of a problem. First, make sure your soap doesn’t have any sodium-based ingredients—we don’t want salt to accumulate in our soil. Then make sure it is biodegradable and doesn’t contain harsh ingredients like bleach or borax. If you want to upgrade to automated systems, you can get help from contractors and educational classes. Watershed Management Group oﬀers a wide variety of greywater workshops and helps people install laundry, bathroom, and kitchen greywater systems. Visit watershedmg. org. Your water utility may also oﬀer a rebate. For example, Tucson Water rebates its customers up to $1,000 on greywater systems. Visit tucsonaz. gov/water/gray-water. ✜ Lisa Shipek is the executive director of Watershed Management Group, an educational organization helping people make small changes in their lives to collectively improve community health.

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Animal Processing For Homegrown Meat By Jeff Sanders

ATING HOMEGROWN FOODS invokes images of luscious tomatoes grown on the vine, of gardens brimming with lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, onions, potatoes, peas and beans. Homegrown foods are fresh and loaded with the macronutrients—proteins, fats and carbohydrates—and micronutrients—vitamins and minerals—that our bodies need to function properly. But what this idyllic backyard image often lacks is protein. Where’s the meat? The meat component of homegrown food is often intimidating, not only because animal husbandry seems more complex than growing a garden but also because slaughtering and butchering an animal is more physically and emotionally challenging than picking a red-ripe tomato from the vine and sinking your teeth into a flavor-packed, juice-filled fruit. But gardening has its own challenges that often require years of practice to overcome. Yet you continue because you know the culinary, health, and environmental benefits are worth the effort. The same is true for processing your own meat. Adding meat to your array of homegrown food has wonderful benefits. As with homegrown produce, many find homegrown meat to have much more flavor. When you process animals at home, you’ll obtain the ingredients to make excellent soup stock. Years ago, it was common to find a large stockpot on the kitchen stove, containing bones, cartilage, connective tissue, and any other meat or vegetable trimmings.

46 September - October 2014

These ingredients were slowly cooked to create a flavorful stock rich in calcium, from the bones, and collagen, from the cartilage and connective tissue—two micronutrients that are important for the good health of our bones and joints. Another component of the animal that is more readily available when you process animals at home is the organ meats, which are full of vitamins, minerals, and other micronutrients. When we eat only the prime cuts from an animal, we miss out on the prime parts—bones, cartilage, connective tissues, organs—that have more far reaching benefits than the meat alone provides. To start processing your meat at home, gear up—the investment in equipment is surprisingly small. The primary piece of equipment you’ll need to for processing a medium sized animal is simply a good quality knife. A good quality knife with a 4½- to 5-inch blade will perform quite satisfactorily for the entire process, slaughtering, skinning, eviscerating, quartering, and butchering. A rope and gambrel-stick are helpful to hang the carcass for processing. A few buckets will be used to keep the meat, organs and bones clean and to transport them to the kitchen for butchering. And of course you will need a clean work space, which is often satisfied by a basic home kitchen. The next step is to obtain an animal. You don’t necessarily have to raise the animal yourself, especially if your city’s zoning ordinance prohibits it. Fortunately, plenty of local small farms are raising healthy meat. And the more we support these

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farms the more these farms will be available. In supporting a farm, first take a look around the farm and ask yourself a few questions. Does the farmer care for the animals? Is the drinking water clean, fresh, and adequate? Is the feed healthy and stored well? Do the animals have pasture for grazing and a corral for the night? Basically, are the animals living a healthy and happy life? If they look unhappy and miserable, find another farm. The next step of obtaining a locally raised animal for your meat is to select the animal. Often the farmer will have reasons for culling an animal. Ask for these reasons. Observe the animal the farmer has selected. Is it active and alert or is it lethargic and dull? Healthy animals are active and alert, without limps, without sores, and without fluids coming from the eyes, nose, mouth, or ears. A good farmer has nothing to hide and will not intentionally sell you an unhealthy animal; doing so is just bad business. So, ask the farmer to help you with an inspection. Now that you have an animal selected, what do you do? Treat the animal with respect and compassion. A large and secure dog crate is often strong enough to transport a sheep or goat. These crates are so much better for the animal than hog-tying it and transporting in the back of a pickup. If you put a bit of straw in the bottom of the crate it will make the animal more comfortable. The biggest challenge in putting homegrown meat on the table is the acquisition of the skills necessary to slaughter and butcher the animal. Although there are many books that can guide you through this process, the best way to learn this skill is to work with someone who has done it before. Find a mentor. Back when many people processed their own meat, fathers, mothers, aunts, or uncles passed this skill down to children. Today, many adults do not possess animal-processing skills. When processing an animal, there is only one critical event that you really want to get correct. This event is the actual slaughter. You want the slaughter to be humane, quick, and clean. Done properly, the slaughter is a calm passage of life. After the slaughter is complete, what exists is a carcass. If something is cut improperly, it will not be a critical error; it will be a learning opportunity. Learning to process an animal is a life-long journey. Once you have processed your first animal under mentorship, it will be beneficial to process another animal with less guidance from your mentor. And then do it again without guidance. As with most new skills, with practice, you will improve and be able to process an animal with efficiency and fluidity. Soon you will have friends asking you to mentor them in the process, and you will join the ranks of those who are preserving and passing on the valuable skill of processing homegrown meat. ✜ Join Jeff Sanders at Bean Tree Farm this January and February for a weekend-long animal processing workshop. Visit BeanTreeFarm.com for dates and registration.

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Fall Classes

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF CLASSES , VISIT EDIBLEBAJAARIZONA.COM. WATERSHED M ANAGEMENT G ROUP RAINWATER HARVESTING CLASS — October 9, 5:30 – 8:30 p.m. City of Tucson Ward 3 Council Oﬃce, 1510 E. Grant Road This hands-on class includes a tour and design process for your home; WMG experts will walk you through the application process for Tucson Water’s rainwater harvesting rebate. GREYWATER HARVESTING CLASS — September 24, 3 – 5 p.m. and October 22, 5:30 – 7:30 p.m. Learn about greywater harvesting and qualify for Tucson Water’s greywater rebate through this hands-on class—up to $1,000 rebate for greywater systems. WMG’s Living Lab & Learning Center, 1137 N. Dodge Blvd ————

C OMMUNITY FOOD BANK OF S OUTHERN A RIZONA . For a complete list of classes, contact Melissa Mundt at mmundt@communityfoodbank.com, or go to CommunityFoodBank.com/GardenWorkshops. All classes 9 – 11 a.m. unless otherwise noted. CLASSES AT COMMUNITY FOOD BANK GARDEN 3003 S. Country Club Sustainable Design — September 27 and October 24. Soil and Compost — October 4 and October 31. Planting a Healthy Garden — October 11 and November 7. Gardening in Small Spaces: Containers and Raised Beds — September 25 Home Canning, Freezing and Drying — September 18 and November 20 Rainwater Harvesting — October 9 Wormania! — October 8 and November 15 CLASSES AT LAS MILPITAS FARM 2405 Cottonwood Road Seed Saving — September 23 Backyard Chickens — October 11, 1 – 3 p.m.

50 September - October 2014

BEAN TREE FARM DESERT RETREAT — October 13 – 17, 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Attend this week-long retreat to deepen your experience of native plants, desert foods, integrated design, natural building technologies, and creative potential. For more information and registration, visit BeanTreeFarm.com. HARVEST AND CREATE — October 18, 9 a.m. – 12 p.m. A workshop for living, cooking and building your life with artistic expression. $30-45 sliding scale. ————

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Every Saturday at the Garden Kitchen, cooking and gardening classes are free and open to the public. Classes start at 9:15 a.m., and include a walking tour of the garden and surrounding neighborhoods, as well as a food demonstration. Visit thegardenkitchen.org for more information for a complete list of upcoming classes. Hands-on Knife Skills October 3 and November 7, 5:30 – 8:30 p.m. Participants will receive three hours of hands-on instruction and practice with beginning knife handling to improve eﬃciency and safety in the kitchen. $40 includes a meal and knife sharpening. For more information and registration, email gardenkitchentucson@gmail.com.

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IN THE BUSINESS

A Sense of Place Kira Dixon-Weinstein, the executive director of the Mercado San Agustín, is working to create a sense of Tucson at the open-air public market. Interview by Megan Kimble | Photography by Liora K

Why did you start the Mercado?

How did you build your mix of businesses?

Something you see in most great cities around the globe are these central market districts or public markets. We spent a lot of time in a town in Mexico that has a wonderful market in this giant, gorgeous shed building. There are probably 50 little businesses in these teeny little stalls that sell almost everything—anything that comes from the region. When we created the Mercado, the idea was to create a sense of place. A place that you could go, that you felt like you knew where you were. It felt good to be here because it was beautiful and vibrant, because it was local. I think people intuitively can feel it. Maybe they don’t recognize all the reasons it feels good to be in one place instead of another, but it doesn’t feel good to be in a place that feels fake. We love this building because people always assume it’s really old and that we renovated it. The city had all this vacant land, right next to downtown, which is pretty rare. My dad and my brother saw the RFP [request for proposals] that the city put out to develop this land. We felt pretty dedicated to the idea that we could create a place that was worthy of Tucson that represented the style of the old barrio that had been torn down. Growing up in Phoenix, we really had no connection to Mexico, other than eating in Mexican restaurants. But you come walk in Barrio Viejo, you can feel—oh right, we’re next to Mexico. We wanted to bring some of that beauty here.

We held a number of community charrettes. We asked our neighbors, “What do you guys want in your neighborhood?” They said, “We want entertainment. We want a nice place to go with our families.” What I was hearing from that was that they wanted a sense of place. We decided that the mission of the Mercado was to support small businesses, entrepreneurs, with a focus on local food and local food producers. I heard repeatedly from local food producers of the need for a commercial kitchen. Seven years ago, there was essentially not any viable commercial kitchen in Tucson. So, we said, we want to have a kitchen. We want a bakery. We want to have a really great taqueria. Taqueria El Pueblito was the original taqueria here. Starting a restaurant business is really difficult and a lot of restaurants fail because of the cost. Taqueria el Pueblito was able to open with a minimal staff and grow their business with minimal risk. And now they have their own stand-alone restaurant. They were able to use the Mercado as a stepping stone. La Estrella Bakery found us. They have a very successful bakery on the south side, but had grown up in Menlo Park and were looking to get back into their own neighborhood.

52 September - October 2014

Kira Dixon-Weinstein worked in the film business in New York for a decade before returning to Arizona. “I was fresh off the boat, and I was like, sure, I’ll dive right into creating [the Mercado].”

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What is a commercial kitchen? The purpose of a commercial kitchen is to make your food business legitimate with the health department. But kitchens are very expensive to build. We were able to build ours with New Market Tax Credit financing [from the federal government], but they’re not enormously profitable entities. Thirty businesses use the kitchen and everything is on a case-bycase basis, from your rate to your lease. We charge $5 to $20 an hour, depending on your usage. Everybody pays a base hourly fee and then a base storage fee. Essentially, the kitchen pays for itself. If I could go back in time, I’d make the kitchen twice as big. The demand for it is huge. We want a diverse kitchen, so we pick and choose our users. We want people who are making jams and pies and selling them at farmers’ markets. We have chocolate makers, soup makers, salsa makers. The Southern Arizona AIDS Foundation runs a Meals on Wheels program out of the kitchen. We have five food trucks. We have a kombucha maker.

When did the Santa Cruz River Farmers’ Market move to the Mercado?

Know your cheesemonger.*

The Community Food Bank [which runs the farmers’ market] was a really important partnership for us. I pursued them for four years before I got them to agree to move the market over here in June of 2012. When there is a sense of place, people come and they hang out. They come for multiple reasons. They come because they want to be around people and activity and then they might also buy some vegetables.

What are some of the challenges you face? Summer is hard for the businesses here. We’re just west of downtown, so it took a long time for people to think of us in their downtown loop. But I think they’ve really found us, because they can come and they can stay for hours. I watched some ladies the other day get here for breakfast, and then I saw them leaving at like 5 o’clock. They had breakfast and lunch and then some wine before they left. We try to keep a diverse atmosphere, which is challenging. It’s challenging to have something that appeals to everyone and that everyone is comfortable sharing.

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The Mercado is in a really good place. Different stages of it have continued to open over the past three years, but we’re now fully open. We had a lot of incentives for our businesses to grow, but everybody is fully cemented and planted now. We’ll continue to support the businesses like the ones we hand-picked here into what hopefully will become a larger market district. One day we hope to do a grand-scale, beautiful building, 50 little booths—a great public market. ✜ Megan Kimble is the managing editor of Edible Baja Arizona. Follow her @megankimble.

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Designing Women At the Café at the YW, sandwiches and espresso are part of an enterprise intended to build more than just lunch. By Alicynn Fink | Photography by Liora K

In February, the YWCA he lunch rush is Tucson celebrated the over but there is grand opening of a café one more sandin its building on Bonita wich to make. Yolanda AnAvenue. Open Monday ton, a part-time employee through Friday from 7:30 at the YWCA Tucson, is a.m. to 2:30 p.m., the café carefully assembling the dishes up salads and sandlast to-go order, a sandwich wiches, and also provides made with avocado, fresh off-site catering. But the local chèvre, tomato, and Café at the YW offers house-made sriracha mayo. more than a quick stop for Anton smiles, “You have a beloved cup of Joe—it to come in with a good offers job training for atattitude and make your risk females. In an industry sandwich with love. It will when 60 percent of new taste better.” (Right) Liane Hernandez, who spearheaded the YW’s culinary program, has worked start-ups fail, the café’s goal Around her the women in an array of kitchens across town, always carrying with her a question: How do you do is deeper than profit; it’s are busy. One is brewing more than just make lunch? (Above) The lunch that’s more than lunch—a goat cheese about community. tea, another prepping a sandwich, complete with house-pickled vegetables and citrus honeydew agua fresca. The recession in 2008 fruit tray; one is reviewing hit many nonprofits hard. the upcoming catering Government grant money and corporate support dried up, order. Laughter fills the kitchen as they share stories. It’s hard forcing many organizations to take a deeper look at diversifying to tell that these women have only worked together for a few their income. For some, social enterprise proved the solution. months. Social enterprise is simply a business that provides income Founded in 1917, for almost 100 years the YWCA Tucson for a nonprofit organization—think Girl Scout cookies. has strived to improve the lives of females in our community Not only do the cookies help troops raise money, by selling and provide them a “place to convene and network, think and cookies the girls are sharpening their entrepreneurial spirit plan and act together.” The programs it offers include a fourand learning persistence and the value of hard work. Selling day employability skills workshop, GED classes, and leadership development. It even has a closet full of professional clothing available free to those preparing for a first interview or job. All Para leer este artículo en español, of these cumulate in one goal: to empower women. Recently visite EdibleBajaArizona.com. they added another tool toward empowerment, a café. 56 September - October 2014

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(Above) Vanessa Ramos, a part-time employee at the YW, makes espresso and serves sandwiches as part of the Café’s job training program. (Right) Employees and volunteers learn basic food preparation—like making tasty sandwiches on the quick for hungry lunch patrons.

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cookies reinforces the organization’s mission to build “girls of courage, confidence, and character.” Kelly Fryer, the executive director at the YWCA, is a former Girl Scout—and top cookie seller—herself. When she joined the organization in 2012 the board was ready to look deeper at its financial stability matrix, and Fryer championed social enterprise as a way to strengthen both the organization’s bottom line and its programs. More than 25,000 people come through the YWCA building every year, both to participate in YWCA programs and for community events. Fryer sat in the lobby one day watching tray after tray of food being brought in for these meetings and thought, “Well, that looks like a business opportunity.” They had a kitchen; they had individuals who wanted to learn job skills; and they had people who needed meals. The only thing Fryer needed was someone as passionate as she was to spearhead the project. Liane Hernandez had experience in the culinary world. She started out as a dishwasher at Bentley’s House of Coffee & Tea, worked as a banquet chef at Lowes Ventana Canyon, and was working as sous chef at Proper before she came to the YW. Through all of her jobs, she’s carried around a question: “How do you do more than just make lunch?” For Hernandez, the mission wasn’t just the meal; it extended to the person cooking the meal. “I was meeting Debbie Rich, the CEO of the Girl Scouts,

at Proper for a glass of wine and Liane comes darting across the restaurant to me. Plops herself down, and says, ‘I have to tell you what I have been dreaming about,’” Fryer says. While the two had met many times before, this was the first time that they had the chance to share visions. The timing could not have been more perfect. Within eight weeks of this brief encounter, Hernandez was on Fryer’s staff and the Café at YW was born. The next six months were a whirlwind. Finding the food cart itself was the easy part—the difficult part was getting it to Tucson and getting it licensed. Health Department applications, grease receptors, and water waste management started to occupy Hernandez’s time. There were hours spent researching other YWCA’s and their successes and pitfalls with similar enterprises. And then there was the menu. The kitchen at the YWCA has no ovens or stoves, which meant that all the food items they could serve would have to be cold. Both Hernandez and Fryer were committed to local, fresh products from the get-go. The Café sources its coffee from Bisbee Coffee Company, the tea from Maya Tea Company, organic produce from McClendon’s Select, and bread from Small Planet Bakery. By combining local products, focusing on cold preparations and quality ingredients, the Café at YW is working to provide value-priced wholesome dining—a sandwich with side costs as little as $4.50. “We have been getting a lot of great support. This feels like such an organic process,” Hernandez says. The vision for the Café doesn’t end with coffee and sandwiches. Later this fall, the YWCA hopes to add a job training program to the Café. Focusing on young woman between 18 and 24 years

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old that are aging out of the foster system, the café hopes to be a stepping stone for them to real-world employment. Hernandez and her team hope to employ 10 interns for 20 hours a week. Combining the internship with Y-Works Skills for Successful Employment workshops and partnering with outside programs such as the Caridad Community Kitchen at the Community Food Bank, Fryer and Hernandez hope to empower participating women with a comprehensive career development package. The Café has two part-time staff members, one full-time, and a volunteer, Flo Meador, who has been volunteering with the YWCA for more than four years and has seen the transformation the café has provided. “The first few years I was here the [lobby] echoed” Meador said. Now the lobby is full of laughter and conversation. Among other volunteer tasks, Meador helps with kitchen prep, cutting fruit, preparing trays, and whatever else is needed. She is excited at the potential job-training program. “We are looking into me going through the Caridad Community Kitchen program,” she says. “I studied to be a Home Ec teacher and drugs took me away from there. It is time I got it back.”

“I never thought I would be back here serving individual plates and serving people food. It is amazing what you can discover about yourself.” Working alongside Meador, is Yolanda Anton. In 2011, Anton was laid off from a job where she prepared school lunches for a private middle school. “I felt like the rug had been pulled out from under me,” she says. “I didn’t know where to go.” With three kids to feed, she turned to ResCare, a temporary staffing agency. They placed her as a front desk receptionist at the YWCA, which quickly brought her on as part-time staff. “I never thought I would be back here serving individual plates and serving people food,” she says. “It is amazing what you can discover about yourself.” “I have learned so much about myself through working in kitchens and restaurants,” Hernandez says. “The kitchen is full of learning opportunities,” she says—and it’s precisely those opportunities the YW hopes to provide for a group of interns. “There is a certain level of forgiveness that we can afford to have here. When you are doing three meals a day [for] 350 people there is a certain level of ‘Let’s go.’ Even if I want to teach you and take you along in this journey, you need to pick it up [on your own].” In the kitchen at the YW, “We have an opportunity to get people up to speed and teach them the questions to ask and have them think about the questions to ask. Part of what we do, part 60 September - October 2014

Thyme hangs to dry from a rack in the YWCA kitchen.

of our mission is to empower women, so I think that having the ability to ask questions and to wonder is really important here.” In order to launch their job training program, the Café needs enough business to support 10 paid interns. With that in mind, Hernandez is focused on developing the catering program, which offers sandwiches and salads for large in-house events and small gatherings in the community. They also offer boxed lunches, which have proved popular with businesses nearby. For Hernandez, food creates community. Fryer agrees. “The YWCA building was clearly built as a community center. It is a place where people can hang out, share food, and share stories,” says Fryer. “The Café at the YWCA is fulfilling that original vision.” Anton agrees that the Café will be fulfilling the YWCA’s mission: “If [interns] come in with a lack of confidence and we are able to build them back up, by showing them, ‘I can do this, look at this piece of art I just built.’ If they can see people eating what they made and enjoying it, this will help the women to empower themselves and help them join the workforce and be a part of everything else.” ✜ Café at the YW. 525 N. Bonita Ave. 520.884.7810. YWCATucson.org. Alicynn Fink is a recent graduate from the University of Gastronomic Sciences and a food geek who devotes most of her time to learning about food systems.

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POLICY

More Crop per Drop By adopting water saving techniques, urban food producers can maximize our region’s increasingly scarce water resources to grow more food. By Merrill Eisenberg | Photography by Tim Fuller

Tucsonans are known for being oly moly ! I got my wafrugal water users. We use about 102 ter bill and saw that my gallons per capita per day in our homes, usage went up almost compared with 123 in Phoenix and 249 100 percent last month. It got me in Scottsdale. According to Tucson thinking. Tucson policy makers Water, we use the same amount of waare responding to the widespread ter today as we did 25 years ago even interest in local food production though the population has grown by 40 by revising the zoning rules to percent. Nevertheless, the water table support small-scale agricultural is dropping in many areas, requiring activity within city limits. This deeper and deeper wells. Central Arizowill likely lead to more households na Project (CAP) water from the Cologrowing food in the near future. rado River has been used to maintain or But will we have enough water to support small-scale local food Urban food producers—like those who maintain plots in even increase water table levels in some production, and if so, at what cost? community gardens—are not large water users. At Pio areas, but our current water situation No need to mention that we Decimo Community Garden, a community garden on South is not sustainable, with or without an live in a desert where water is Seventh Avenue in Barrio Santa Rosa, 9-year-old Griffin increase in urban food production. Surprisingly, urban food producers scarce and where climate change is Foster lends a hand fixing an irrigation pipe. are not large water users. Tucson Water expected to make it even scarcer in rates are tiered, so that the price per gallon goes up as your usthe future. The western United States is experiencing historic age increases. An informal survey of backyard gardeners shows droughts—Baja Arizona is not alone in facing a water crisis. that water bills increase about $20 to $50 per month during the As a result, changes in water policy are surely on the horiseasons when they are growing, and many never exceed the first zon. Jean McLain, the associate director of the University of billing tier. According to Leona Davis at the Community Food Arizona Water Resources Research Center, says that strateBank, the cost of water for 80 family plots at Las Milpitas, the gies like desalination and direct potable re-use, also known as Food Bank’s urban community farm, is about $6 per month per “toilet to tap,” are currently being considered for stretching family. scarce water supplies. Brad Lancaster, an expert in the field of Local food producers report that they keep their water use water management and co-founder of Desert Harvesters, sees low by using alternative water sources such as harvested rainan immediate need for policy change. “We already know the water and graywater, and by altering their farming practices to situation will be severe in the future. We need to change now.” 64 September - October 2014

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maximize “crop per drop.” To produce food without depleting the water supply, gardeners turn to techniques such as dense planting, use of mulch, planting in basins, and infrequent deep soaking, as well as selecting climate-appropriate crops. Aquaponics, a new technique that produces both fish and organic vegetables in a dynamic pond-type ecosystem, is another very promising farming adaptation to a low water environment, as it typically uses far less water than irrigated agriculture. Local policies that promote water conservation have contributed to our relative efficiency in recent years. In 1989, the Tucson Plumbing Code was amended to require water-efficient fixtures in all new residential and commercial construction; in 1991, the City Code was revised to require the use of drought-tolerant plants and limit non-drought-tolerant vegetation to small “oasis” areas in new multifamily, commercial, and industrial developments. Tucson Water offers rebate and incentive programs for water harvesting and graywater installations. Lancaster suggests that other local policies we might consider include expanding the drought-tolerant vegetation requirement to front yards of residential properties, and requiring that we “plant the water,” by installing rainwater harvesting or a graywater system, “before planting the tree.” Some new local water policies that support urban food production are already underway. Last year the Pima County Regional Wastewater Reclamation Department—the folks who manage our sewer system—made water for food production more affordable by making it possible to remove sewer charges—which account for about half of your water bill—for the water used in community gardens, since that water does not enter the sewer system. In addition, recommendations for a new sustainable zoning code in Tucson relax the rules for the placement of cisterns on residential property, giving residents more options for harvesting rainwater. These are small scale but important efforts that, when combined with efficient water use in the garden, will contribute to the utility and financial viability of local urban food production. But looking forward, they are not enough. We will need more comprehensive policies that guide how we allocate all

of our water resources—groundwater, CAP water, stormwater, graywater, and even blackwater (sewage). And these policies will have to reflect our community values and priorities. According to Tucson Water, 45 percent of the groundwater currently pumped through the municipal water system is used for outdoor irrigation of mostly nonedible plants. Whether we have enough water to support urban agriculture in the future will depend on how much we value food production versus other outdoor uses such as ornamental gardens, lawns, swimming pools, and golf courses. According to Tres English, the director of Sustainable Tucson’s Feeding Tucson project and a local food system visionary, about 60 percent of the rainwater that falls on the streets of the Old Pueblo—139,000 acre-feet per year—never makes it to the water table because it is lost to evaporation. That equates to more than 45 million gallons that can be captured and used to grow food without depleting the water table or relying on the Colorado River. English believes that a combination of water harvesting and graywater use, coupled with innovative growing techniques can provide enough water to make Baja Arizona a “food oasis in the desert.” But this will happen only if we face up to the challenges and are willing to create the policies and make the public investments that can make it so. Turns out my enormous water bill had nothing to do with the garden. I contacted Tucson Water and asked them to check my meter and they sent out an inspector the next day, who determined that the culprit was the innards of my toilet. An easy and inexpensive fix was in order. I wonder how many pounds of vegetables could be produced with the water that is being wasted by toilets in the homes of other unsuspecting residents of Baja Arizona? ✜ Visit TucsonAz.Gov/Water to find out about rebates. For more resources about wise water use, visit Watershedmg.org. Merrill Eisenberg is an applied anthropologist who is retired from the University of Arizona Zuckerman College of Public Health. Her interest in food policy comes from her commitment to community empowerment and participation in policy development.

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FORAGE

Foraging for Forest Fungi On the quest for the perfect wild mushroom, don’t forget to make sure it’s also edible. By Lee Allen | Illustrations by Molly Kiely

among the brave souls who consume wild mushrooms: There are old mushroom pickers and there are bold mushroom pickers, but there are no old and bold mushroom pickers. So Mom was right when she lectured you as a kid—know what it is before you put it in your mouth. It’s especially sound advice when foraging for wild mushrooms, as many of the edible variety can have poisonous look-alikes. Experienced foragers from the Arizona Mushroom Club advise an edibility test—which is “good for anything you’re not familiar with, whether it’s a mushroom, berries, or any plant,” says the club president, Chester Leathers, a microbiology professor emeritus at Arizona State University. “Even if you know someone is an expert and has eaten the mushroom before, it’s still a smart idea to use this test.” When seasonal rains arrive and spores start sprouting, mycologists start planning field trips. Leathers advises, “Find a mushroom that looks good and smells acceptable and start with a teaspoon of it prepared the way you intend to cook the entire batch—sautéed, boiled, or fried. Other than that experimental bite, eat only known foods for the next eight hours. If you experience a queasy feeling in your stomach, watery eyes, diarrhea, or heart palpitations, cease and desist. If no symptoms appear, try another sample a bit larger and again wait for any reaction. t ’ s a legend

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If the tests keep coming up negative, you can be reasonably confident the mushrooms in question are safe to eat.” Arizona isn’t typically associated with these mysterious mycological marvels because they generally grow in wetter climates and are associated with coniferous and deciduous forests, but “blue skies, spectacular sunsets, scorching deserts, and torrential thundershowers can combine into an environmental setting in which various forms of fungi are found,” writes Jack States in Mushrooms and Truﬄes of the Southwest. Andrew Weil, the founder and director of the Arizona Center for Integrative Medicine at the University of Arizona, is a fan of foraging. “I’m a lifelong mushroom lover who enjoys the thrill of the hunt, the process of identification, the cooking and savoring of their deep, complex flavors. Add to this fact that many mushrooms have potent medicinal and tonic properties and you can understand my enduring mycophilia,” he says. Arizona mushrooms provide an edible smorgasbord found in a range of varying habitats. Mixed conifer vegetation zones, characterized by pines, fir, spruce, and aspen, give up tasty morsels like the iconic lobster mushroom, Caesar’s amanita, On the hunt: Retired Arizona Game and Fish biologist Jim Warnecke blazes trails as he forages for fungi.

Barrows’ bolete, and oyster mushrooms. There are a lot of options to choose from; the Arizona Mycota Project estimates that 23,400 fungal species occur in the state. Project participants say that thousands of species of fungi might remain to be discovered in Arizona. “Success at collecting edible mushrooms in the arid Southwest depends on local rains in the summer monsoon season—it’s not nearly as assured as foraging in the forests of the Pacific Northwest in fall,” says Weil. “Still, in the right place at the right time, you can find numerous edible species in the region, occasionally in abundance.” Mushroom clubs and special events are conduits for adventure where the joy of first discovery can turn into a lifelong addiction. It continues to be a source of excitement as well as edibles for retired Arizona Game and Fish biologist Jim Warnecke of Phoenix, a long-time mushroom club member who insists that forest-fresh fungi beats store-bought stuff. “I’ve hit some bumper crops that have yielded nearly 250 specimens over a weekend. Last year in the White Mountains, lobster mushrooms were prevalent near the Sunrise ski area. We hit one hillside where we filled three grocery bags and then went out and did it again the following week.” When foraging, concentrate on areas around trees and logs where discoveries include chanterelles, golden-orange mushrooms with wavy caps and distinctive ridges underneath. Considered a delicacy, “They’re great in omelets and sauces,” says long-time Scottsdale club member Chantel Pascale, who

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learned about the joys of mushrooming while growing up in France. “My mission is to educate and inspire folks to go out and enjoy the fungi in the woods,” says Warnecke, who is working on a film to that very effect, titled Arizona’s 11 Most Edible Mushrooms. Warnecke has a preference for the moist high country on Mount Graham during the early spring or the fall rainy season when morels await discovery. “There are definitely two seasons that are environmentally defined. In springtime, April to May, morels like the black morel or fire mushroom represent about 90 percent of the find. The summer season that follows the monsoon rains and goes through September produces a flush of several varieties that can be dehydrated and vacuum-packed. You can take a fresh four-by-four-inch bolete, chop it up, and eat a couple of them in a meal, but if you dehydrate them, you can get half a dozen in a jar that make great sauce, mushroom soup, or stroganoff.” “There are some fungi that grow in desert washes after rains, but for diversity, abundance, and deliciousness, I head for one of the Southwestern Sky Islands, like Mount Lemmon in the Santa Catalina Mountains,” says Katja Schulz of the Tree of Life Web Project. “Some years you’ll only find a few here and there. At other times the hills go crazy with mushrooms in all colors of the rainbow. Some of the edibles found at high elevations include the oyster mushroom, the hedgehog, and the white king bolete.”

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ager to try my oW n lucK at foraging, Warnecke and I laced up our boots for a high country hike in White Mountain country outside Show Low-Pinetop. Walking down old skid trail logging roads, dodging puddles from an earlier rain, Warnecke was like a bloodhound on scent. “You can actually smell mushrooms,” he said. “They have an earthy smell unlike the ones you find in grocery stores.” We poked through wet leaf forest litter, hoping to find bright spots like the tops of king bolete, easy to spot because they resemble a peach cut in half. “The stalks are bulbous and you want to get down and wiggle them, then trim off the mud, and put them in a net bag,” said Warnecke. Looking uphill from previous logging areas, we locate some easy-to-spot gourmet yellow chanterelles. “You can spot these from a distance because of their bright color as they grow along a root line. They need lots of moisture and don’t come up every year, but they’re a prize when they do,” said Warnecke. Another of Warnecke’s favorites is finding a flush of lobster mushrooms pushing up through pine litter. “I call them my 50-mile-an-hour mushroom because you can spot them while driving by.” Farther down the track and right next to the roadway we discover what look like little rockets. These are shaggy manes, grayish-white in color, that grow in groups in disturbed soil and old fire areas. “If you get lucky, sometimes at the base of an old stump, you’ll find a big convoluted thing that looks like a brain or a cauliflower the size of a small basketball growing there,” said Warnecke. “These are unique, like nothing you’ve seen before. Cut into sections, the cauliflower mushroom can be good for three to four meals.” On most mushroom forays, seekers will do many pass overs, ignoring a number of species before finding the right one to harvest. “When in doubt, throw it out,” Warnecke said. If trekking in the trees doesn’t appeal to you and you want your shrooms picked and packed, Andrew Carhuff, chef and owner of Old Pueblo Mushroom Growers, the only commercial cultivator in Tucson, says, “Our goal is to create a mushroom source for Tucson and southern Arizona and to contribute to the local food movement.” Old Pueblo Mushroom Growers specializes in gourmet oyster mushrooms, some 50 pounds a week, grown in organic grain and straw logs and sold to local restaurants and at farmers’ markets. Moving soon to a five-acre spread in Aravaipa Canyon, Carhuff plans to add cultivation of shitakes. The chef’s advice? “Sauté them with butter or garlic, mix in greens like kale, and enjoy the freshness.” ✜

Lee Allen is a life-long forager in search of education & edibles. 74 September - October 2014

T HE

HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOOD AT THE BASE OF

“A” MOUNTAIN

PURVEYORS

Opting Out As concern about GMOs grows nationally, three Tucson businesses have decided to stop serving some genetically modified ingredients. By Melissa Diane Smith | Photography by Steven Meckler

2012, shortly befor e The Loft Cinema was scheduled to screen Genetic Roulette, a documentary about the health risks of eating foods that contain laboratory-created genetically modified organisms (GMOs), it began selling organic popcorn popped in non-genetically modified canola oil. “We wanted to offer the healthiest possible popcorn that we could,” said Zach Breneman, the deputy director of The Loft. “I think it tastes better, too.” At about the same time in 2012, sisters Sigret and Keanne Thompson, co-owners of the Tasteful Kitchen, viewed the same movie and began sourcing many non-GMO ingredients to use in their kitchen. At greater expense and with more effort, they began to purchase and learn to work with frozen organic corn tortillas instead of fresh, locally made ones, and switched to using olive oil, sesame oil, and coconut oil instead of canola oil when cooking. To avoid other sources of genetically modified (GM) foods such as soy, zucchini, yellow squash, and beet sugar, they decided to use only organic soy miso, organic zucchini, or Mexican gray squash, and non-GMO sweeteners such as dates, pure cane sugar, agave nectar, and coconut sugar. “We don’t want to eat them, so why should we serve them to our customers? Serving non-GMO foods is the right thing to do,” said Chef Sigret. Todd and Sherry Martin, co-owners of The Tucson Tamale Company, took a slightly different journey. They learned about GMOs close to 15 years ago from Todd’s father, Bob, a former farmer who had many concerns about their impact on agriculture. When the Martins opened their first Tucson Tamale restaurant in November 2008, they wanted to offer non-GMO n

76 September - October 2014

tamales but lacked financial and logistic resources, including not being able to find local sources of non-GMO corn. “When we first opened, we checked with all the local suppliers and nobody had any non-GMO product,” Todd Martin said. “When things began to roll along with our business, we started to search for non-GMO corn masa again, and we knew we were going to have to go outside of Tucson to find it.” They eventually found it from a California manufacturer in 2010. “The first bag of organic blue corn masa we bought, including the freight and everything, was about five times more expensive. Now, because we are able to buy in quantity and reduce our shipping costs, we’re down to just about 20 percent more expensive.” They cut out more sources of GMOs last July when they switched the oil they were using from canola oil, a common genetically modified food, to non-genetically modified sunflower oil. They’re now looking for a local producer of non-GMO zucchini and yellow squash and have plans to make their own non-GMO corn tortilla chips. Whether you’ve realized it or not, these local businesses and restaurants have been making changes in what they offer, responding—just as some national food companies are starting to do—to the underground, yet incredibly fast-growing movement by consumers to avoid GMOs. Genetically modified organisms—usually plants—are created by inserting genes A classic snack, now with classic ingredients: Zach Breneman, the deputy director of The Loft, says he thinks their popcorn tastes better since they switched to GMO-free canola oil.

countries and that have risks associated with them has promptfrom one kind of living thing—say, bacteria—into the DNA ed them to speak up en masse to companies, leading several naof another—say, a type of corn—to confer new traits, such as tional food purveyors to source non-GMO ingredients. There herbicide tolerance, in a crop. also has been a huge surge in sales of verified, voluntarily laThere are partial or total bans on GM foods in 26 countries beled non-GMO food products—from $0 in 2010 to over $3.5 and GM foods are labeled in more than 60 other countries billion in 2013. It’s estimated that by 2017 non-GMO products around the world. But they aren’t labeled in the United States. will make up around 30 percent of total food and beverage sales, Because of U.S. agricultural policy, GM foods entered the U.S. with a value of about $264 billion. food supply more than two decades ago without congressional Cindy Bruwer and Anne Kessell are two Pima County oversight. residents who are part of Contrary to what most the growing non-GMO people believe, no studies movement. They are conhave been conducted by cerned about the health, the FDA to determine environmental, and agrihow GM foods affect hucultural effects of GMOs, man health. “The Food and they go out of their and Drug Administration way to regularly support makes no conclusion about businesses and food growthe safety of GM food, but ers that offer non-GMO says it is up to the compafood. nies to determine the safety “Every time I go out, of any GM food,” said I’m conscious that I want Michael Hansen, a senior to avoid genetically modiscientist at the Consumers fied food,” said Bruwer. Union, who has testified “To think I can go at many hearings on the somewhere [like The Loft] topic. and have popcorn that is A growing number of not genetically engineered consumers are concerned is seventh heaven,” said about several issues preBruwer. She won’t eat sented by GM crops. Most popcorn in other theaters genetically modified crops even though popcorn is on the market are sprayed non-GMO everywhere; with large amounts of the Loft’s policy on using chemical herbicide like non-GMO oil matters to Roundup weed killer. her. “It’s great to be able Chemical companies have to relax and eat something been purchasing more and without worrying about more of the world’s seeds, it.” genetically modifying Kessell likes talking to them, and patenting them, local businesses knowlso a handful of companies edgeable about the subject. control our seed and food “I want to give my body supply, and farmers can the best food possible for no longer save and pass Sigret Thompson of The Tasteful Kitchen says, “We don’t want to eat [GMOs], my health and it’s importdown those patented seeds. so why would we serve them to our customers?” ant to me that some local What’s more, GM seed restaurants and vendors at companies sometimes sue farmers’ markets are avoiding GMOs,” she said. “I really apprefarmers if patented GM crops start growing in farmers’ fields ciate the extra efforts they’re making.” when wind drift carries GMO seeds or pollen into those fields, Surprisingly, The Loft, The Tasteful Kitchen, and the Tuceven if the farmers had no intention of wanting to grow the son Tamale Company didn’t revamp their ingredients to cater GM crops. to customers or to increase business. They chose to provide Many other people are worried about the health effects: more non-GMO offerings because of what they learned about Animal research points to possible health risks from eating GM GMOs. foods, including infertility, immune system problems, gastroin“There are so many reasons to be non-GMO,” Martin said. testinal problems, accelerated aging, dysfunction of regulation Though many more people are seeking out non-GMO food, of cholesterol and insulin, changes in organs, and tumors. “Even if nobody cared about it, we were always going to go The fact that more American consumers are realizing they non-GMO.” are eating untested GM foods that aren’t eaten in many other 78 September - October 2014

Keanne Thompson of The Tasteful Kitchen said she doesn’t mind if many customers don’t yet understand the importance of eating non-GMO foods. She and her sister feel great about the decision to offer non-GMO, local, and organic food, and “We’re going to keep doing what we’re doing,” she said. ✜ The Loft Cinema. 3233 E. Speedway Blvd. 520.795.7777. LoftCinema.com

Todd Martin at the Tucson Tamale Company is all smiles as he whips up a batch of their GMO-free corn masa. The Tasteful Kitchen. 722 N. Stone Ave. 520.250.9600. TheTastefulKitchen.com Tucson Tamale Company. 2545 E. Broadway Blvd. 520.305.4760; 7159 E. Tanque Verde Road. 520.298.8404. TucsonTamale.com Holistic nutritionist and health journalist Melissa Diane Smith is a non-GMO speaker and the author of the forthcoming Going Against GMOs: The Fast-Growing Movement to Avoid Unnatural Genetically Modified “Foods” to Take Back Our Food and Health. Visit MelissaDianeSmith.com.

How to Say No to GMOs

foods do not have to be labeled in the United States, you can avoid genetically modified foods right now by learning how to be a savvy non-GMO consumer. In my book, Going Against GMOs, I offer shopping tips, recipes, and the Eat GMO-Free Challenge, a series of tips to follow day by day for 31 days. The most important strategy is to get the nine currently commercialized GM food crops firmly in your mind. Unless they are labeled with the USDA Organic or Non-GMO Project Verified seals or unless a farmer assures you that they are non-GMO or organic, avoid foods that contain the following GM ingredients: ven though

•

Corn (as in corn oil, cornmeal, cornstarch, corn syrup, hominy, polenta, and other cornbased ingredients)

•

Canola (as in canola oil)

•

Cottonseed (as in cottonseed oil)

•

Sugar Beets (as in “sugar” in an ingredient, which almost certainly is a combination of sugar from both sugar cane and GM sugar beets)

•

Soybeans (as in soybean oil, soy protein, soy lecithin, soy milk, tofu, and other soy-based ingredients)

•

Alfalfa, which is fed to livestock

•

Papaya from Hawaii and China

•

Yellow Squash and Zucchini (look for those labeled organic or grown from non-GMO or heirloom seed)

If you shop mostly at farmers’ markets, the main produce items to be leery of are zucchini, yellow crookneck squash, and fresh corn on the cob. If you see these items at a vendor’s table, you won’t be able to tell the difference between non-GMO and GMO simply by looking at them, so you have to ask the grower. You might ask: Are this zucchini and yellow squash grown from non-GMO, organic, or heirloom seed? Also, remember that GMOs are not found in certified organic foods, unless drift occurs. Also be sure to vet vendors that sell animal protein sources, such as beef, lamb, pork, chicken, and eggs. Always find out from farmers and ranchers exactly what the animals they raise are fed. You’ll discover the challenges that some farmers face trying to avoid GMOs and the extra lengths they put forth to provide non-GMO food.

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80â&#x20AC;&#x192; September - October 2014

PRESENTED BY THE UA COLLEGE OF SOCIAL AND BEHAVIORAL SCIENCES

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Baja Arizona 81

LA FRONTERA

Una Tradición de Salud En Nogales, distintas generaciones juntas reviven tradiciones alimentarias de antaño. Por Lourdes Medrano | fotografía por Bill Steen

Why is this story in Spanish? Simply put, because we want the pages of Edible Baja Arizona to reflect the community we live in—one that speaks, eats, and thrives in both Spanish and English. Here, Lourdes Medrano writes about a community convening around healthy food in Nogales, Arizona. Read this story in English at EdibleBajaArizona.com. —The Editors

S onor a , Esperanza Martinez comenzó a trabajar en el campo a temprana edad, pizcando elotes con frecuencia en tiempo de cosecha para su familia y amistades. Cuando llegaba la época de sembrar trigo ayudaba a su padre a esparcir las semillas en la tierra y, meses después, con sus padres y hermanos se unía con los otros ejidatarios para rendirle homenaje al santo católico del que todos dependían para un cultivo robusto cada temporada. “Cada mayo le cantábamos a San Isidro Labrador para que lloviera”, dice Martinez, recordando aquellos tiempos. Hoy en su sexta década de vida, Martinez reside al norte de la frontera en Nogales, Arizona, donde sigue cultivando una variedad de frutas y verduras en un pequeño terreno en su hogar. Un día su jardín llamó la atención de Santos Yescas, un coordinador local de alimentos, y Martinez pronto se encontró cantando la canción tan familiar de su niñez en un encuentro intergeneracional que se centró en las prácticas alimentarias culturales. r iada en los ejidos de

Señor San Isidro Señor Labrador Mándanos la lluvia Para sembrador

82 September - October 2014

Martinez fue una de varias personas de la tercera edad que participaron en un reciente diálogo con jóvenes como parte de esfuerzos que se realizan para crear conciencia acerca de las opciones de alimentos saludables y “como se relacionan con nuestras tradiciones y cultura”, explica Yescas, el director de programas en Nogales Community Development Corp. En cooperación con socios de la región, la organización no lucrativa hace posible el acceso a una serie de oportunidades que ayudan a residentes de la zona fronteriza a adquirir la experiencia necesaria para crear su propio jardín, aprender sobre una alimentación saludable y participar en notables proyectos comunitarios relacionados con comida. El Nogales Mercado, ubicado en el centro de la ciudad, se ha convertido en un escaparate para los vendedores que ofrecen sus productos agrícolas y otros alimentos producidos en la localidad. El mercado, que abrió el año pasado, también permite a los que se interesan en comida saludable la oportunidad de socializar. Muchos de ellos han tomado talleres juntos sobre jardinería y alimentación. El veinteañero Sergio Murrieta estuvo presente en el diálogo donde Martinez compartió historias de su juventud. Todos probaron el pozole de trigo, el caldo de verduras y carne que proporcionaba sustento durante las fiestas de mayo que ella recordó. “Yo no sabia que ésto existía”, Murrieta dice sobre el platillo que hoy en día es raro. “Es delicioso”.

Esperanza Martinez cultiva una variedad de frutas y verduras en un pequeño terreno en su hogar.

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Vendedores del Mercado de Nogales (desde la izquierda arriba): Marina Octavio y Cerefran Octavio Callejo, Tony Martinez, Erik Korchmaros, Conor Fitzgerald y Jamie Sullivan de Mariposa Community Health, Julieta Bustamante, y Magdalena Ortiz y Juana Gonzales.

El conversar con personas mayores hizo a Murrieta darse cuenta de la pérdida de viejas tradiciones alimentarias y despertó en él el deseo de prestar más atención al tipo de comida que alimenta su cuerpo. Pensó en reducir el número de jugosas hamburguesas que le gusta devorar. “Después de este programa he intentado limitar mis alimentos de cadenas de comida rápida”, dice. “Incluso he plantado mis propios árboles para fruta, manzanas y granadas”. Murrieta también es voluntario con Nogales Community Development y a menudo va de compras al mercado que abre cada viernes de las 4 – 7 p.m. Durante esas tres horas, la música en español resuena por las bocinas mientras que los vendedores se paran detrás de mesas llenas de cultivos de la temporada y una gran variedad de comestibles como productos de panadería, mermelada y miel. Cesar 84 September - October 2014

Martinez generalmente se encuentra allí con las pilas de quesos frescos que hace mucho produce en su rancho de Nogales. “Esta ha sido una buena experiencia porque conozco mucha gente y gano un poco de dinero”, dice Martinez. Julieta Bustamante llegó al mercado a principios del verano por medio de Yescas, quien la invitó a que participara. Ella se mantiene de un ingreso fijo, así que lo que gana vendiendo sus empanadas de calabaza y otros panecitos le viene muy bien. Dar apoyo a pequeños empresarios es parte de los recursos que ofrece la organización no lucrativa que fue el resultado del antiguo Historic Nogales Main Street, un grupo cuyos esfuerzos se enfocaron en reactivar el centro. “Nos vamos adaptando a las necesidades de la comunidad”, dice Yescas. El Nogales Mercado abrió en abril de 2013 después de que

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la organización se unió con otros grupos locales, incluyendo a Mariposa Community Health Center que se especializa en la educación alimentaria mientras que Nogales Community Development aporta su visión para los negocios. El mercado, dice Yescas, ha atraído el tipo de atención que se necesita sobre como incorporar frutas y verduras saludables en la dieta para reducir el riesgo de enfermedades como el diabetes, que afecta desproporcionadamente a los latinos en el sur de Arizona y el resto del país. En Nogales, la gran mayoría de los residentes son hispanos. “Invertir en comida saludable puede mantener bajo el costo de medicinas”, agrega Yescas. En el centro de aprendizaje de Mariposa, donde trabaja Amaury Gama, los programas de prevención se enfocan en ofrecer a las personas las herramientas necesarias para mantenerse en forma. “Los buenos hábitos de alimentación son clave para gozar de un estilo de vida saludable y evitar problemas de salud”, dice Gama. Para los latinos que crecieron comiendo abundantes comidas mexicanas que frecuentemente incluyen carne puede ser difícil romper viejas constumbres alimenticias, agrega. “El desayuno enorme con huevos, tocino, chorizo, tortillas de harina grandes y café es parte de nuestra cultura”, dice Gama. “Desafortunadamente, ese tipo de comida está causando que nuestra gente experimente serios problemas de salud.” Aunque una mala dieta no es exclusiva de los latinos, “vemos en las estadísticas que somos de los primeros cuando se trata de la hipertensión y la diabetes”, enfatiza Gama. “A nosotros nos corresponde buscar educarnos y romper estos malos hábitos alimentarios”. Daniel Dabdoub, que reside en Nogales, dice que su participación en los talleres locales ha sido esencial para aumentar su conocimiento sobre los alimentos que ingiere y el impacto que tienen en su bienestar. Después de que un infarto hace algunos años lo dejó en un precario estado de salud, cambió su dieta a una repleta de frutas y verduras, pollo y pescado. En un pequeño jardín cultiva verdolagas, tomates, chiles, cebollas y ajos. Ya no come carne de res ni de puerco y su consumo de comida rápida es inexistente. “Me vine convenciendo que tenía que abandonar la dieta de comida rápida”, dice Dabdoub. “Es un estilo de vida que me funciona de maravilla”. Con un nuevo proyecto en curso—un jardín comunitario en Nogales—es casi un hecho que Dabdoub estará presente para plantar las primeras semillas. Y Esperanza Martinez estará más que dispuesta a cantar la canción de su santo. ✜ Nogales Mercado, 163 N. Morley Ave., Nogales, Arizona. Viernes, 4 - 7 p.m. Radicada en Tucson, la periodista Lourdes Medrano comparte historias de ambos lados de la frontera. Síguela en Twitter: @_lourdesmedrano. Read this article in English at EdibleBajaArizona.com.

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HABITAT

Honey, Don’t Forget the Pollinators The pivotal role of Baja Arizona foodscapes in bee and butterfly recovery. By Gary Paul Nabhan | Illustrations by Robert J. Long

in any Whole Foods, AJ’s, or Sprouts in the Tucson area, and at least 237 of the 453 fruits and vegetables found there were brought to you by a now-imperiled fleet of flying pollinators. While scientists and farmers in Baja Arizona were among the first in the country to sound the alarm about pollinator declines, they are also leading the way in on-farm pollinator recovery that may ultimately ensure our own food security. We can thank the local pollination ecologist Gerald Loper for much of what we know about the causes and consequences of honeybee declines in our region. In 1988, Loper began hiking down Camp Grant Wash near Oracle Road, searching for feral colonies of honeybees—those stashes of hives found in rock crevices, caves, and hollow trunks made famous by Winnie the Pooh. Over the next five years, he located 245 nest sites for honeybees, 100 of which he revisited twice a year through 2009. Loper, now 89 years old and still active, recalls that he soon began seeing significant changes in the number of sites that the bees were occupying from year to year: “I got pretty good at guessing which ones would be occupied or abandoned. Once in a while, I would even record one being reinhabited.” But he couldn’t have fathomed in 1988 the severity of changes wrought by drought, parasitic mites, and Africanized bees to the feral honey bee populations of the Sonoran Desert. In 1989, just a year after his survey began, a tracheal mite parasitic on honeybees was recorded in Arizona for the first o to the produce section

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time. In 1992, varroa mites, another form of deadly parasite, arrived in the Tucson Basin. Then, in 1994, Africanized bees that first had escaped into Brazil were seen in the Rincon Mountains, and along Santa Cruz River tributaries. Suddenly, the pollinator landscape of Baja Arizona was irrevocably changed. By 1996, only eight of the 208 colonies Loper recorded at nest sites near Oracle in June of 1993 remained alive. As he broadened his survey to include rangelands near Sierra Vista and Mammoth, Loper determined that only about 15 percent of the bee colonies known at the start of the 1990s had survived into the next millennium. Today, the honeybee colonies in Baja Arizona have rebounded to a third to four-fifths of what they were when Loper began his surveys, but we know now that at least 24 other countries worldwide have also suffered significant honeybee and bumblebee declines. There may be fewer bees left on this planet than at any point in our lifetimes, prompting Loper’s former colleague Steve Buchmann to declare that we are facing a global crisis in pollinator availability. “We have noted disrupted relations between plants and pollinators, diminished numbers of seeds per fruit among rare plants as well as commercial crops, and declining populations of animal pollinators,” he said. “In our studies along the Mexican border with the United States, only 27 percent of cereus cactuses were pollinated. In one area sprayed with pesticides, only five percent produced fruit. In areas free of agrichemicals, between 60 and 100 per-

cent of the plants would have been pollinated, and between 75 and 100 percent would have borne fruit. Those findings have been echoed the world over, in habitats as dissimilar as the tallgrass prairies of Iowa and the dry Chaco Serrano scrublands of Argentina.” Honeybee pollination services to agriculture in the United States alone are now valued at around $30 billion a year, but honeybees are but one of many species of pollinators whose populations have plummeted over the last quarter century. Bumblebee and monarch butterfly populations have also reached all-time lows. These declines have prompted recent outcries from everyone from farmers and beekeepers to President Obama and Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack. Baja Arizona’s prevailing drought over the last 15 years has not helped honeybees nor their keepers. Jaime de Zubeldia of ReZoNation Farms is both a natural beekeeper and a grower of vegetables and fruits, and said that the drought has many impacts on his managed bees and nearby swarms: “We started tracking bloom times relative to colony buildup since 2010 or 2011. This year, warmer weather [earlier in winter and spring] resulted in earlier bloom times by about three weeks. So far, our notes from year to year show a gradual warming extending earlier into the year as time goes on. This means longer summers that we need to adjust to.” De Zubeldia added that drought and heat can also trigger abandonment of former nest sites, swarming, and colonization of new areas by bees. “This year we recorded just over 50 swarms as a result of much earlier than expected warmer weather. If it had been a normal year, hive expansion would have taken place well in advance, avoiding swarming activity that affects the total honey yield and profits.” Remarkably, the hive survival rate at ReZoNation Farms has held at around 95 to 97 percent as measured by those colonies that over-winter successfully. Many beekeepers across the Southwest are now suffering losses of 25 to 30 percent, which make their beekeeping operations unsustainable. There is much to be learned from Jaime and Kara’s successes; twice a year, they hold a natural beekeeping school at their farm in Marana, including an upcoming course this October. Among their time-tried strategies for success are: •

•

Keeping the immune defenses and digestive tracts of their bees in top condition by shielding them from exposure to neonicotinoid pesticides. Growing bee forages or locating colonies in habitats with abundant native flowering plants rather than offering supplemental feeds such as sugar syrups or soy protein patties. Breeding queens from regionally adapted, disease resistant stock from their own best hives and discouraging drone production from poorly producing hives.

While beekeepers like Kara and Jaime de Zubeldia are doing their part for pollinator recovery by promoting bee health, others are restoring flowering plant diversity to migratory pollinator corridors running across Baja Arizona’s farms and ranches. In collaboration with the University of Arizona’s Sustainable Food Systems Program, Borderlands Restoration has 90 September - October 2014

been helping farmers, orchard keepers, vineyard managers, and ranchers with pollinator habitat restoration on private lands since 2012. At least 10 farms, ranches, and community gardens have recently been certified as Pollinator-Friendly Habitats or Monarch Waystations in Baja Arizona for their efforts to provide both nectar sources and larval host plants for monarchs and other butterflies, squash and gourd bees, carpenter bees, blue orchard bees, hummingbirds, and nectar-feeding bats. The native plants that do best at attracting and sustaining migratory pollinator populations are being featured for sale at the Borderlands Restoration nursery in Patagonia, a town that recently declared itself the Pollinator Capitol of the United States. The city boasts that within just a few miles of the Pollinator Gardens on its village green, naturalists have documented more than 600 species of native bees, 16 species of hummingbirds, 150 or more butterflies, and two nectar-feeding bats. Nearby, Southwest Monarch Study’s Gail Morris and others have been tagging monarchs in the Canelo Hills and learning that that butterflies from this area migrate both to the California coast and to the mountains of Michoacan, Mexico. It is likely that the presence in Santa Cruz County of 19 different kinds of milkweeds—perhaps more than in any other county in the country—have much to do with making the Canelo Hills a butterfly mecca. Back in Tucson, a new coalition of pollinator researchers, conservationists, educators, and habitat restorations have come together, calling themselves the Southern Arizona Community of Practice for Pollinator Habitat Recovery. The goals of this group include the design and implementation of recovery plans for most groups of imperiled pollinators residing in or migrating through Baja Arizona. The University of Arizona’s Laura López-Hoffman is also helping guide a transborder monarch butterfly recovery plan mandated by an agreement between President Obama, Canadian Prime Minister Stephen Harper, and Mexican President Enrique Peña Nieto at their historic “post-NAFTA” summit in Toluca, Mexico, this last February. Since then, Arizonans have participated in a White House Pollinator Summit in Washington, D.C., and a Trilateral Meeting on Endangered Species and Ecosystems in Queretaro, Mexico. In the late 1960s, Arizona farmers themselves successfully lobbied for a state ban on the use of DDT in farmlands to protect pollinators from excessive spraying that had caused millions of dollars of crop losses in melons and other crops. Their efforts preceded by several years the national initiative, in honor of Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring legacy, to ban DDT on American croplands and to establish the Environmental Protection Agency. Wouldn’t it be fitting if Arizonans again assumed national leadership in protecting our pollinators not only from toxins, but also from habitat loss, climate change, pests, and diseases? With such tireless innovators in our ranks, Baja Arizona is positioned to offer some of the solutions required to deal with the global pollinator crisis. ✜ ReZoNationFarm.com. Gary Paul Nabhan is based at the University of Arizona Southwest Center, where he facilitates pollinator recovery alliances. Learn more at makewayformonarchs.org. He is the co-author of Stitching the West Back Together (University of Chicago Press, 2014).

If we don’t take care of the carpenter bees, they might just take care of us.

edible Baja Arizona

DRINK

A Just Drink Agua Prieta-based Café Justo partners with growers in Chiapas, Mexico, to sell coffee that’s just for all. By Fernanda Echavarri | Photography by Will Seberger

achete in hand , Genaro Meza Mendez walks through the dense jungle in Chiapas, Mexico, to care for his family’s coffee fields where he grows organic arabica and robusta coffee. He harvests each coffee bean by hand and places it in a basket he has tied around his waist. If Genaro didn’t have the opportunity to sell coffee through a cooperative, making enough to feed his family of eight, he might have to immigrate to the United States illegally as his two younger brothers did. Genaro lives in Chiapas and is part of a cooperative that sells his coffee beans, grown near Mexico’s southern border with Guatemala, across the northern border with the United States. Café Justo, or Just Coffee, began 10 years ago as a response to what one of its founders Arthur Bassett III calls “an immigration crisis.” The number of migrants crossing the border illegally began to rise in the early 2000s. As border enforcement increased, migrants crossed through more remote areas of the desert, also causing the number of deaths to increase. The primary reason for immigration is because people can’t make a living, Bassett said. “It could be because of war, it could

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be because of a natural disaster, it could be because of … even love. People move to try to better their situation.” Traveling back and forth from Douglas to Agua Prieta, Sonora, Bassett saw an increase of migrants from Chiapas trying to cross illegally into Arizona. For a while, he put water out for migrants in the desert; he helped feed those about to cross into the U.S. and helped translate at the border, “but it becomes apparent that’s not enough,” said Bassett, who goes by Tommy. “There’s a big economic disparity, living down here on the border. It’s very easy to witness this, seeing people coming looking for work, trying to cross a border both legally and not legally,” he said, adding that he sees economic development as the key to preventing dangerous and illegal immigration. (Above) All of Café Justo’s coffee is roasted in their commercial roasting facility in Agua Prieta, Sonora, before it’s shipped directly to consumers. (Right) Lebestain Lopez Perez of Agustin de Iturbide stands atop a mountain overlooking coffee parcelas, or lots. Perez is one of 30 coffee farmers working with the Café Justo coffee cooperative.

(Above) Lebastain Lopez Perez displays red coffee berries harvested from his parcela near Augustin de Iturbide. (Below) Tommy Basset III, one of the co-founders of Café Justo, says that beans grown in the highlands of Chiapas provide economic opportunity to local farmers, good pay and benefits to production works, and an economic reason for would-be migrants and deportees to take on meaningful work in Mexico.

Bassett, together with Agua Prieta resident Adrián Gonzales and Reverend Mark Adams from the Frontera de Cristo Church set out to create a vertically integrated coffee business where growers could roast, package, and export their own coffee. They received a $20,000 grant from the Presbyterian Church (U.S.A.) and set up a commercial roaster and shipping facility in Sonora, a processing facility in Chiapas, and a sales network in Arizona and beyond. The cooperative has about 30 members in the mountains of Mexico’s southern most state, including Genaro’s family. The campesinos plant, grow, and harvest the coffee cherries by hand when the fruit is red, glossy, and firm. They peel the cherries and leave them out to dry at a processing facility in Salvador Urbina, a small town in southern Chiapas. After a week, when the beans are dry, Café Justo employees pack sacks full of coffee beans and ship them to Agua Prieta, where days later a handful of employees roast the coffee and pack it into individual one-pound bags. Those bags are shipped across the United States border to Douglas and sold throughout southern Arizona and through Café Justo’s online store. “A lot of people nowadays are interested in knowing who grew their food, that direct relationship with the provider,” Bassett said. “I don’t mind paying a couple more dollars to the person who grows the corn in my community when I know their kids will be playing with my kids and it built their family allowing them to stay in their house.” The same is becoming true of coffee. 94 September - October 2014

While coffee is not an especially high-value cash crop in Mexico, it is a valuable commodity in the United States and Europe. It is difficult, however, for individual farmers to grow enough to meet market demand and to cover the cost and logistics of international sales. Café Justo’s nonprofit cooperative model allows individual farmers to pool their coffee crops and share distribution costs. The coffee farmers in Café Justo’s cooperative do not use fertilizers, instead adding natural organic matter, mostly old plant leaves, to help the soil retain nutrients. “The coffee is good. It’s remarkable and very low in acid,” Bassett said. “This makes it really unique. It’s truly a drink-allday coffee.” These coffee beans also work as an anchor that keeps families together by giving people like Genaro an opportunity to make a living from the family coffee crops and prevent them from leaving the village to look for work elsewhere. “What could be worse than being a parent and never hearing from your child again?” Bassett said. Stories of the dangers of crossing the U.S. border filter down to Mexico’s border with Guatemala. The problems are familiar even to village elders, some of whom have never left the small town of Salvador Urbina. A mother of seven, Lucia Mendez Sicara, 73, knows first-hand how separation of families negatively affects life in villages such as Salvador Urbina. If her oldest son, Genaro, had immigrated to the U.S., she would have had to sell the family’s coffee planta-

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(Left) Genaro Meza Mendez cultivates coffee seedlings in his backyard in Salvador Urbina. (Right) A coffee plant sheds summer rains. The red berries are ripe for the picking, while the green will stay on the plant.

tion—and only source of income—because her aging husband can’t work the fields anymore, she said. Luckily, Genaro remains in Chiapas to care for the family’s coffee plantation. Her other sons crossed the Arizona desert into the United States illegally 15 years ago when coffee prices were low and economic opportunities few. They’ve found jobs in North Carolina—although Mendez says things haven’t been easy for them, and they have not returned. On a Sunday morning last fall, Genaro, a 51-year-old campesino, planted coffee seedlings in small black plastic bags with the help of his two young sons, Miguelito and Jael. It will be about three years before these seedlings grow into shrubs or small trees that can produce coffee beans. “Papi! Papi! Toma esto,” says 2-yearold Jael, eager to get his father’s attention while he hands him a clump of soil. The single father of three has a family lot, or parcela, where most of his coffee grows. His parcela is a 30-minute walk from his home and Genaro climbs the mountain every day to check on the crops that he sells through Café Justo. Genaro, like other coffee farmers in the cooperative, cares for his land by picking up fallen leaves and gathering

them to create organic fertilizer for the coffee plants. The once dark green glossy leaves help retain moisture when piled up at the base of each coffee tree. He also checks for insects that may harm the plants and makes sure thieves have not dug up newly planted shrubs, something he says has become a problem in recent years. He also has about a dozen coffee plants in the backyard of a home he shares with his aging parents, his sister, his niece, and his three children. “My children are young but they’re there when I work. Miguelito already knows what I do and he’s paying attention,” Genaro said. “He goes with me to our coffee plantation and I tell him, ‘Mijo, one day you’re going to be taking care of this land, and you’re going to teach your brother.’ I want to teach my kids the best about these fields.” By keeping the family coffee plantation, Genaro said, he hopes to prevent another generation from risking their lives trying to cross the U.S.-Mexico border illegally. ✜

“[My son] goes with me to our coffee plantation and I tell him, ‘Mijo, one day you’re going to be taking care of this land and you’re going to teach your brother.’”

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Café Justo. 520.364.3532. CafeJusto.com. Fernanda Echavarri is a multimedia reporter for Arizona Public Media.

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dmundo B allinas S antiago , a founding member of Café Justo, took over his parcela from his father who died two decades ago.“I get great satisfaction knowing that people in the U.S. are drinking the coffee I planted and harvested,” he said. “I tell my daughters that they must maintain the land and work it like I do to keep sending coffee north.”

eli x V entur a G omez cares for the machinery at the facility. For him, Café Justo was the reason to avoid a perilous trek north. “We don’t make a lot but, enough for us to live. I thought about going up there, not so much to work but instead to feel what it’s like to cross the desert, but thank god Café Justo came up,” he said. He has a friend who crossed into the U.S., but only after getting lost in the desert, and running out of water because a smuggler abandoned the group. Knowing a chance for success exists in Urbina is enough to keep him from risking his life crossing the desert into Arizona.

“M

used to tell me, ‘Don’t be embarrassed to get your knees dirty when you’re planting seeds. Love this land the way God loves us because when you love it and work it, you strengthen the ecosystem, you strengthen your family’s economy, and you strengthen your soul,” said Lebastain Lopez Perez. He joined Café Justo almost two years ago after having sold his coffee at a lesser price through coyotes or middle-men. Caring for the coffee fields takes countless hours of cleaning, shading, and hand picking each coffee bean off the plants. Lopez Perez’s coffee field is about six acres. “Sometimes people who live in urban areas forget about the farmers and the countryside, but if it were not for the country and what we do here, what would urban cities look like?” y mother and father

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DRINK

A Perfect Canvas Can coffee be local? Exo Roast Co. is trying to bring a taste of the desert to our favorite far-flung beans. By Kati Standefer | Photography by Liora K

in early July, Amy Smith, the manager of Exo Roast Co., raises her hoe into a mesquite tree and shakes it. “I want that bunch right there,” she says, knocking into a group of long, blanched-looking mesquite pods, which cling stubbornly to the branch. Underneath the tree, she has spread a thin red quilt over the dirt, to make sure we harvest only those dried pods that fall with gentle encouragement. It’s one of those humid mornings where the mountains are slightly gauzy with haze. Cicadas hum. On a nearby farm, peacocks shriek, sounding like furious 6-year-olds. Rio Vista Natural Resource Park is empty except for the occasional jogger huffing through. The scene—Smith, in a giant white cowboy hat and a denim button-down shirt, tapping branches with her “harvesting cane,” an industrial-sized bucket of mesquite pods by her side— doesn’t exactly scream “Coffee.” But we’re harvesting mesquite this morning to supply the downtown Tucson coffee company with the pods it needs for one of its popular “regionally inspired drinks”—the mesquite Toddy. n a sultry mor ning

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coffee, one might say, is “regionally inspired.” Coffee connoisseurs praise the “single-origin,” beans that hold the distinct flavor of a particular place at a particular time, while eschewing cheap, mass-produced commodity coffees, with their mixed-location beans and consistent flavors. But in Baja Arizona, the region inspiring coffee beans is not ours—they just don’t grow here. Coffee is one of those few products that even the most ardent locavores have to make peace with; it comes in sacks from the Virunga Hills of Rwanda, from Sumatra, from Peru, rather than from Cochise or Patagonia. To love coffee, in Arizona, is to start one’s mornings appreciating the terroir of another place. Except perhaps at Exo Roast Co. Inside the cool brick storefront at the corner of Sixth Avenue and Seventh Street, a chalkboard advertises ll gour met

(Left) Like cream for coffee—a pour of half and half mellows and coheres the flavors in a mesquite toddy. (Right) The makings of the desert drink: dried mesquite pods, roasted coffee beans, and dried chiltepin peppers.

Exo’s local concoctions. There’s the mesquite Toddy, of course: sweet, earthy, and malty, layering cream over cold-brewed coffee (known as Toddy), mesquite extract, and ice. But the other regional drinks are just as delicious. There’s the Ice Pinole Latte, a gritty-sweet mixture that combines mole, espresso, milk, and ice with traditional parched corn from Ramona Farms in Sacaton. Those with a spicier palate might try the chiltepin Toddy, which blends chocolate, cream, and hand-crushed chiltepin pepper (direct-sourced from harvesters in Mexico) with ice and Toddy. If you prefer your drink warm, you can add mole from Tucson’s Mano y Metate to your hot chocolate or latte. “We will not adulterate certain coffees,” says Exo co-owner Christopher Byrne. “The dynamism found in some espressos and pourovers, we wouldn’t want to interfere with.” But, he says, “Toddy is the perfect canvas. It’s a lovely coincidence.” The process of brewing Toddy—in which coarse-ground beans are soaked for half a day or more in cold water—changes the flavor profile of the coffee. “It’s a more even-toned flavor,” Byrne says. “It lowers the acids, smooths the taste.” This, he says, it what makes it possible to play with local flavors like mesquite, which ordinarily could clash with a coffee’s taste profile. “We’re starting to source from really local traditional farmers or wildcrafters,” says co-owner Doug Smith. “I’m maybe more excited about that than geeking out over coffee. You can get the latest gadget for roasting, but that’s less exciting to me than doing cool things that are local.” He says this isn’t the end of Exo’s experimentations; they’re exploring what they might do with Yuma dates, as well as considering how to replicate some traditional Latin American recipes—champurrado and atole, for instance— Tucson-style.

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(Above) Amy Smith harvests mesquite early on a summer morning. (Below) To extract the mesquite’s flavor, she soaks the pods in a crockpot, where warmth and water slowly turn into Toddy.

he local emphasis comes naturally. Like the sweet, red-flecked mesquite pods behind their regional Toddy recipe, Exo Roast Co. grew up out of these dry soils. In the late ’80s, Byrne and Smith—from Tucson and Phoenix, respectively—met as undergraduates at the University of Arizona. They spent long afternoons at Bentley’s, then one of just a few coffee shops in town, dreaming about opening their own. “It was a powerful time,” says Byrne. They conceived of a coffee shop that would also serve as a community center of sorts, providing a space for music, conversation, and exploration. The two eventually fell out touch, but reconnected in Portland, Oregon, where they began to play music together. “The songs we were writing were nostalgia songs about this place,” Smith says. The old dream—and the desert—tugged at them. “We began to have conversations about, what can we do to get back home?” Byrne says. “Are we spending our lives the way we really want?” One weekend, on a trip to New Mexico, Doug Smith and Byrne made a vow to make it happen. With the support of Tucson restaurateur Peter Wilke, who became the third partner in the business, “We roasted in a little metal shack along Time Market for three years before opening the store,” says Smith. Byrne often roasted from 7 p.m. to midnight, while Smith—still working as a professor in Oregon—would fly in on the weekends. “It’s hard to get this place out of you,” Smith says. “Eventually I think we just realized we didn’t want to live anywhere else. We’ve come back to stay, I think. It’s hard to leave the desert.” This love for the Sonoran desert underpins everything Exo does, Byrne says. “In the desert, everything runs through your blood. It’s painful, beautiful, intense, exquisite. It’s given me all I have, so why can’t I give it all I have?”

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Doug and Amy Smith harvest mesquite together with the help of the newest addition to the Exo family.

into mesquite began in the spring of 2013, when Doug Smith told then-employee Cate Maxon that he wanted to offer a drink using regional ingredients. “Mesquite was her idea,” he says. Maxon began experimenting with mesquite extractions and got in touch with Brad Lancaster at Desert Harvesters for help. “She was worried about the quality,” says Lancaster. “Luckily she was holding back from using it in the store. We tasted it and immediately knew this was bad pod. You have to taste a pod from the tree before you pick. If you start off with a bad pod, you’re going to have a bad product.” What makes a bad pod? According to Desert Harvesters, any chalkiness, bitterness, or a drying or burning sensation in the mouth or throat is a bad sign. “If it has any of those four to any degree, our advice is: that’s a bad tree,” says Lancaster. Pods xo ’ s for ay

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should also be fully dry when picked—no longer green—and should be gathered before the beginning of monsoon in order to avoid a dangerous mold called aflatoxin that often grows on pods once the rains fall. All this means that serving mesquite products requires a commitment to learning how to harvest in the Sonoran Desert. This year, both Amy Smith and Maxon attended several harvesting workshops, where Exo provided mesquite Toddies as refreshment for the thirsty volunteers. The shop also helped host Desert Harvesters’ annual milling party. And Smith has been busy checking out her neighborhood mesquite trees, visiting parks, and looking for local gleaners to sell the shop delicious pods. “The first year is always the hardest, because you don’t know where to go,” Lancaster says. Desert Harvesters recommends

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mapping out the trees you like, and sure enough, Smith has already returned to several as more of their pods ripen. In this sense, she tells me, coffee and mesquite are alike: Each tree has a different flavor profile. Smith’s hard-won, Sharpied ziplock bags of mesquite pods are indeed “single origin.” If all goes as planned, the mesquite Toddy, chiltepin Toddy, and a basic cold brew will also be available around town in bottled form within the next few months. Does an emphasis on the local mean a de-emphasis on the global origins of coffee? Not exactly. “Coffee is the world’s second most-traded commodity,” Doug Smith tells me on a moody afternoon at the shop, when everyone is watching out the front windows for monsoon to break. A former anthropology professor, Smith wrote his dissertation on coffee production in Mexico’s state of Pueblo, in the Sierra Norte. “I know three people who died going into the desert because they couldn’t stay on their land in Mexico, because coffee prices were so low.” Smith gestures to a series of 50-pound jute sacks on the floor of the shop near the roaster, which look small beside the 100-pound burlap bags. These he purchases from a company called Coffeeshrub, which negotiates directly with farmers, paying them one-and-a-half to two times Fair Trade wages and verifying that the payments are making it to the people actually responsible for quality, organically grown coffee beans. Like all coffee, these jute sacks still fly across the world to reach us. And yet there’s something about the level of care and intention involved on the other side of the supply chain that makes the beans feel, well, rather akin to the bucket of mesquite pods. “There’s no getting the blood out of it entirely, but this is as bloodless as possible,” Smith says. Or, as Byrne puts it, “A balanced approach might be not just to love your place, but to love all places.”

ack at the harvest, Amy Smith and I stare up at a couple of mesquite trees outside an attorney’s office at 8 a.m. “I wonder about the terroir of Campbell and Kleindale,” Smith says, plucking a pod from the tree and chewing it thoughtfully. She nods. “I do like to have permission, though,” she says, so we march around to the entrance of the office. “We probably look like crazy people!” Smith laughs, hoe in one hand, bucket swinging in the other, big hat perched on head. I have the harvest blanket balled in my arms. But it’s too early; no one’s in the office yet. Smith notes the location of the trees, and we pile the gear back into the truck and set off. She is apologetic that we’re not finding much, but I’m in awe that this neighborhood is so harvestable. That I’d never noticed before. That perhaps I’ve already tasted some of these normal-looking trees, on a hot morning at the shop, when I pulled up on my bike and an icy mesquite Toddy sounded like the best thing around. ✜

Exo Roast Co. 403 N. Sixth Ave. 520.777.4709. ExoCoffee.com. Kati Standefer is an MFA candidate at the University of Arizona, where she teaches creative writing and composition.

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The Price of Tea in China

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At Seven Cups tea house, owners Austin and Zhuping Hodge connect specialty tea growers in China directly with sippers in Tucson.

By Renée Downing Photography by Jeff Smith

t ucson Boulevard on Sixth Street, tucked into the solid row of small shops facing Rincon Market, is the closest thing in Tucson to the Harry Potter novels’ Diagon Alley—a gateway into a vast, dramatic reality hidden in plain sight. This unlikely door to another dimension is Seven Cups Tea House, serving fine Chinese tea and snacks and selling bulk tea and teaware since 2004. For everyone who’s driven by and noticed it but never stopped, the persistent green awning in a strip where businesses regularly come and go presents a mystery: How could so rarified an enterprise have survived 10 years? Through a brutal recession? In Tucson? Anyone who’s been through the door has glimpsed a significant part of the answer. Not for nothing has Seven Cups won a double Best of Tucson—Best Tea Service and Best Bulk Tea Selection—every year since it opened. Further afield, it’s garnered a slew of national and international honors, including being named one of the best places to drink tea in America by Travel+Leisure. (The other shops cited in the 2012 list are in Boulder, New York City, San Francisco, Portland, and Washington, D.C.) Of course, Seven Cups is lovely—it’s simply the nicest place in town to meet a friend and talk or sit and read. (Some of your fellow Tucsonans visit Seven Cups every day.) But there are larger answers to the question of its success, all of which open up onto the great world behind it. To begin with, according to Austin Hodge—who along with his wife, Zhuping Hodge, and manager Andrew McNeill, runs Seven Cups—you must understand a bit about tea, the world’s most popular beverage. ust east of

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(Above) Until Seven Cups owners Austin and Zhuping Hodge opened shop, no fine quality Chinese tea could be purchased in the United States. (Below) Below, puer cakes—which are used to make puer tea—commissioned by Seven Cups in 2008. These cakes are collectable—only 1,000 were produced, and 750 were purchased by Chinese collectors.

“T

ea ” comes from the Chinese cha and refers specifically to an infusion made from the leaves of Camillia sinensis, a shrub native to Yunnan in southwestern China. It’s a hardy plant that flourishes in any warm, welldrained, acidic soil, but until the 19th century grew only in the Far East, and almost exclusively within China, where it has been cultivated for thousands of years. In the mid-1800s, the British, who’d developed a serious tea habit and the trade imbalance to go with it, smuggled plants and a few workers out of the country, and began establishing large plantations and aggressively marketing the broken black leaf they produced. Brewed strong and made palatable and marginally nourishing by the addition of sugar and milk, plantation tea became the primary fuel of British workers. Today, it’s grown and mass-processed in areas around the world where the climate’s suitable and labor is cheap. (Most of Lipton’s U.S. tea supply, for example, comes from Argentina.) Plantation methods produce an inexpensive staple with no variation from one batch to the next. Its price—around a couple of dollars a pound wholesale—is set at auction by commodity brokers. Sweetened, flavored, spiced, cut with milk, served hot or iced, plantation

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tea is what most of us know as tea, and it accounts for the lion’s share of the $40 billion global trade. That’s one tea universe. It has essentially nothing to do with the other, which is what the trade calls “specialty” or fine Chinese tea. This is what Seven Cups sources, brokers, sells onsite and online—and, of course, pours. The shop’s multipage menu of more than 100 traditionally grown and produced Chinese teas from 42 producers in 10 provinces reflects the dizzying breadth and intricacy of Chinese tea culture. Fine-quality Chinese tea comes in six categories—white, yellow, green, black, oolong, and puer—and in countless poetically named styles produced by four to six million farmers and 300,000 to a half-million artisans working under the supervision of local tea masters using methods refined over centuries. The final product depends upon the tea cultivar, age of the plant, climate, and soil, and the number and age of the leaves hand-picked from each stem, as well as by virtually endless variations in how the leaves are prepared—steps may include withering, flattening, rolling, steaming, frying, compression, oxidation, and even fermentation—resulting in a different fragrance and flavor profile for each tea. The goal of

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In order to source the finest quality tea, the Hodges have formed closed relationships with tea growers and processors in China, saying, “You can’t do business in China without relationships.” Photo by Austin Hodge

Chinese producers is quality, which requires finicky hand-processing at every stage. Prices for famous teas can reach thousands of dollars a pound and are set by an insatiable, newly wealthy internal market. The best way for Westerners to understand what tea means in China is to think of the culture and appreciation of wine: A traditional Chinese saying is that even if you study tea all your life, you can never know the names of all the teas. Until Seven Cups came on the scene, no fine quality Chinese tea could be purchased in the United States, unless you happened to know one of a handful of obscure West Coast dealers. And this is where the story of Austin Hodge—Tucsonan by way of San Francisco, mental health therapist turned self-taught coder, software engineer, and computer consultant—intersects that of Camillia sinensis. “In 1991, I was writing code when a friend at the UA introduced me to a green tea that his father sent him from China,” he explains. “I was blown away and tried to find out where I could 112 September - October 2014

buy some. It was not available. Period. Since China had been open for a while, that seemed to violate every law of economics. “I’m a problem-oriented person—I found this intriguing. And I really wanted the tea. So I decided to learn basic Chinese, develop a network of friends there, and just go.” He went, found his tea, and returned again and again, traveling the country, drinking tea, and making connections. As “a big white guy fascinated by tea,” he stood out wherever he went, and was welcomed. “The Chinese market was, and still is, very fragmented, very local. I quickly learned that you can’t go through middlemen—they keep their sources secret, so you never know what you’re getting. The other thing I realized is that you can’t do business in China without relationships. The closer the relationship, the better the product and the more reasonable the price. I made friends with all sorts of people who touched tea in some way—actual producers were only the tip of the iceberg.”

In the Seven Cups shop in Tucson, Zhuping shows how to prepare a pot of tea for brewing.

At the same time Hodge was spending his free time in China, he was coming to loathe the increasingly corrupt government procurement practices of the IT consulting industry. Wanting out, he started to think about using his China connections to make a living in the tea business. He envisioned Seven Cups as the first company dealing in Chinese tea with a completely transparent supply chain. “Everyone thought it was an absolutely terrible idea. The fine tea trade had always been run on secrecy and proprietary sourcing. And my Chinese friends were certain that Americans were incapable of appreciating good tea, and would never pay for it.” Nonetheless, he quit his job and started working on the company in 2001, incorporating in 2002. “My goal was to assemble the finest possible collection of Chinese tea, and to promote the people who produce it. I knew

how and where to get the tea. The part that took ingenuity was selling it.” In the meantime, he’d met Zhuping, a native of the central Chinese city of Chongqing who’d also given up a lucrative career in a corrupt business—in her case, commercial real estate development—to devote herself to tea, spending several years studying to become a certified tea culture instructor. They married in 2003, and opened the shop in 2004, making it the first traditional Chinese tea house in the Southwest. Seven Cups began with online sales— Hodge designed the website, which, 12 years later, is both a store and a vast, ever-expanding compendium of tea lore—and at St. Philip’s Plaza Farmers’ Market, where the Hodges gave out tastes and sold tea each Sunday. (Seven Cups continues its outreach, offering tastings every day, “tours” of the shop’s offerings, plus a variety of classes and special events, including an annual two-week tea tour in China.)

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Andrew McNeill, the Hodges’ “right-hand man,” moved to Tucson to work for Seven Cups; thanks to his extensive tea scholarship—and a year and a half in Taiwan—he’s now fluent in Mandarin.

“So when we opened the shop we already had local customers, as well as buyers who’d found us online.” Today, Seven Cups ships to retail and wholesale customers in more than 90 countries, including China. Zhuping is the company’s negotiating and logistics muscle. She spends three months a year in in her native country, traveling, researching, sourcing tea, and visiting family and “teafriends.” Her sister runs the company’s office in China, and oversees staff there. When she’s in Tucson, Zhuping gives classes, hires and trains the shop’s sweet, knowledgeable staff, and spends time on the phone at night, doing business with China. Along with Tiffany Mercer, a Tucson pastry chef, she makes a number of the traditional tea snacks offered on the menu. “I don’t worry about someone else competing,” Zhuping says. “What we do is hard. We never relax. But we are happy because it is all for tea.” Andrew McNeill, the Hodges’ right-hand man, is similarly dedicated. He worked for a while in a tea shop in his native Florida before moving to Tucson in 2007 to work for Seven Cups, drawn by the fact that it was the Florida shop’s only transparent wholesaler. McNeill has since become fluent in Mandarin, thanks to 18 months’ study in Taiwan, and is deep into tea scholarship and research. “No one owned this market before Austin and Zhuping started because no one wanted it. So it’s ours and we’re playing a long game, growing it through education and experience, one customer at a time. It’s slow but it’s lasting. It’s also fun,” he says. “The shop has funded the rest of the business,” explains Hodge, when asked about how the various parts of the oper114 September - October 2014

ation fit together. “Most of the income from the shop goes to rent, payroll, and buying stock. We’ve grown every year. “We run it very attentively. If you’re going to make a go of a small business in this town, given the low-wage economy, the reluctance of the local bankers to invest, and the onerousness of the city’s—and especially the county’s—rules, you must focus on quality and be on top of every detail. There’s never any dust in here, for example. Every order ships the same day we receive it. We know everything about our teas, down to what our producers give their workers for lunch. We know because we’ve eaten with them.” Is Seven Cups worried about Starbucks’ recent acquisition of the 300-shop strong Teavana chain, and its plans to open a thousand more shops over the next few years? “On the contrary,” Hodge smiles. “Starbucks is great at what they do. They’re going to help us by introducing millions of consumers to the idea of something better. Inevitably, some of those people will get bored with flavored tea drinks and mediocre product and become curious about what tea really is. And we’ll be right here. “Tucson has proved to the rest of the country that average Americans can appreciate the best Chinese teas, and as long as Seven Cups’ doors stay open, will pay for them.” ✜ Seven Cups Fine Chinese Tea. 2516 E. Sixth St. 866.997.2877. SevenCups.com. Renée Downing has been eating and writing in Tucson for nearly 40 years.

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FEED

WOR WO R 116 September - October 2014

On his Willcox test farm, philanthropist Howard Buffett is studying soil and conserving water, hoping to ďŹ nd a way to grow food better. By Megan Kimble | Photography by Jeff Smith

THE T HE

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“The first thing I’ve learned in Africa, which would apply here, is that if you don’t take care of your soil, you will not be able to use your land. If you don’t take the right precautions for water conservation, you’ll run out of water,” says Buffett. “That means you won’t be able to have a viable food system to support this country.”

B uffet t owns the largest roller-crimper in the world. Howard Buffett wears a red Nebraska T-shirt tucked into navy cargo pants and drinks Coca-Cola at 8 a.m. Howard Buffett, son of Warren, is the future CEO of Berkshire Hathaway, the fifth largest company in the world. Howard Buffett doesn’t flood irrigate; he doesn’t think anyone else should, either. Howard Buffett hasn’t used a pesticide in his life—but he doesn’t believe organic agriculture will feed the world. And above all, Howard Buffett wants to feed the world. This mission has taken him to more than 130 countries. It’s taken him to South Africa, where the Howard G. Buffett Foundation owns a 9,300-acre test farm; to Mozambique and Kenya; El Salvador and Guatemala; and back home to his farm in Decatur, Illinois, where he lives most of the year. In 2011, it brought him to Willcox, to a 1,400-acre test farm where he hopes to learn how to how farm better crops, with more efficient yields, on drought-stressed land. In Arizona, Buffett says, “You don’t buy land. You buy water.” When, in 2006, Warren Buffett announced he was leaving most of his fortune to philanthropy, he tasked his middle son with the challenge of spending $3 billion dollars to “accomplish something great in the world.” Howard Buffett chose an issue that had troubled him for years—how to feed the nearly billion people across the food who don’t have access to safe, healthy food. “You can get into details about what you like and don’t like about our food system,” he says. “As far as I’m concerned, agriculture is just as important as defense. You go to countries where they can’t feed themselves—they don’t care about guns, they care about food. They’ll give up the bullets so they can eat.” owar d

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he B uffet t a r izona test far m is a sweep of green in a dusty plain south of Willcox. Ed Curry breeds chiles for most of New Mexico at his farm a mile down the road. Farther south, Dennis and Deb Moroney raise Criollo cattle on the 25,000 acres of 47 Ranch. To the east, the Chiricahua Mountains border an arid, grass-covered rectangle known as the Sulfur Springs Valley. The soil here is alkaline, low in organic matter, suited more for wild grass than corn. In 1913, the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension bought 160 acres of this hardscrabble land and established the Sulfur Springs Valley Dry Farm. As the 1916 annual report of the Agricultural Experiment Station reported, area farmers needed information with “immediate, practicable application.” The farm filled with fields of alfalfa and sorghum. They tested tillage on 60 kinds of corn; planted seeds at different depths, on different dates; measured yields of three dozen varieties of beans. Farmers studied an extraordinary diversity of crops, including an array of soil-holding legumes; in 1916, the annual report of the Arizona Experiment Station reported, “In the light of experience to date, the most successful dry-farming rotation for the Sulphur Springs Valley is one consisting of grain sorghums, corn, Sudan grasses and beans.” Today, Howard Buffett is working nearly the same land (seemingly unaware, it is worth mentioning, of its historic precedent). He’s growing corn, pinto beans, and soybeans, with other grains and legumes in rotation, and comparing yields across fields amended with synthetic inputs like nitrogen. He’s watering test plots by drip irrigation, flood irrigation, and center pivot. He’s modifying John Deere planters to accommodate the narrow rows on small African farms—and testing the pulling capacity of the farm’s two oxen, Ike and Earl.

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Buffett is a man that likes his machines, as evidenced by an open-air shed holding two-dozen assorted tractors, trailers, crimpers, and planters.

After a decade working with both small and commercial growers in Africa, Buffett shifted his focus to Arizona. Southern Arizona’s low organic soils appealed to him, as did the droughtstressed landscape. He wanted a farm that would mimic conditions in Africa but would be easier to manipulate and control. (And, as he told the Arizona Farm Bureau, “flying to South Africa takes a while.”) “We really want to stress the productivity of different crops,” he says. With so little rain, “you can really control the impact of water here.” The farm’s 4,200-foot elevation creates a slightly shorter growing season than he’d like—but it mirrors his South Africa farm’s 4,000-foot elevation. In Willcox, Buffett says, “We’re doing some things we think about in Africa, some things we think about in the U.S., and some things we think we could apply to both.”

owar d B uffet t waves like a Midwesterner. As we drive around the farm, he toots his horn and offers a friendly nod to everyone we pass. Tractors rumble along dirt roads. Field workers return to the shade of a corrugated-tin shed for lunch. Graduate students haul buckets full of root samples into air-conditioned labs. It’s a bustling landscape, a little Buffettopia. We pull alongside a furrowed field of corn. Invisible to us, drip irrigation lines run six inches below the soil. This is one of three test plots testing how irrigation affects crop yields. The

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corn irrigated by center pivot is noticeably shorter than this drip-irrigated field—a nice finding, as drip irrigation requires significantly less water than center pivot. “We had something mind blowing happen here,” Buffett says, switching gears from water added to nitrogen withheld. “The plot we planted with zero nitrogen yielded only 10 bushels of corn less than the plot that had 50 pounds of nitrogen.” This is a significant achievement. If Buffett can acquire data that shows no-till farming and use of cover crops doesn’t negatively affect yields, he might be able to persuade both large farmers in the corn belt of America and struggling, small farmers in Africa to ease up on fertilizers and invest in cover crops instead. Cover crops like alfalfa or clover—which fix nitrogen into the soil, prevent erosion, increase organic matter, and retain soil moisture—are the reason to have a roller-crimper, which is basically a large, heavy rolling pin with a raised pattern surface. Pulled behind a planter or two oxen, a roller-crimper flattens and kills cover crops, mulching the plant back into the soil just before planting a new season’s crop. “A few years ago, I had a meeting with U.S. AID. This guy was telling me, all you need is fertilizer,” he says. “It’s like, OK, you do need fertilizer. But if all you do is give synthetic fertilizer to a small farmer in Africa, who really can’t afford it, it’s like hooking someone on heroin. Because they will get productivity, under most all circumstances. But you’re setting up a system

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Jimmy Burridge, a graduate student from Penn State, studies root architecture on harvested bean plants to determine which breeds grow well under drought conditions.

that isn’t the system they need.” Buffett’s system is one of minimum inputs and zero tillage. No-till farming leaves soil undistributed and unturned from one planting season to another. Although long entrenched in farming doctrine, the unfortunate side effect of turning soil is that it dries it out, killing microorganisms that have latched on to existing root structures, and releasing into the atmosphere elements, like carbon and nitrogen, that should be in the soil. We drive past wavering green stalks, stark against the blue Arizona sky. Past tractors adorned with $2,000 wheels and John Deere planters fitted with custom-made roller-crimpers, stopping at a bright white shed full of gleaming stainless steel tables. Researchers from Penn State and Purdue University are housed here, their operations relocated from the South Africa test farm when Buffett invested in Arizona. In the shade of a corrugated tin shed, Jimmy Burridge, a graduate student from Penn States, cuts and catalogues roots (and sometimes listens to The Roots while he works). “We’re trying to figure out what root traits are best for drought,” he says. “We’re looking at root architecture and ability

to acquire water.” Five or six clear plastic Tupperware containers contain bushy bundles of flat green leaves—common beans, he says, but they also work with tepary beans. A student to his left bundles and tags the roots. Later, genotypes grown under well-watered conditions will be compared to genotypes grown under drought conditions. “We’re working with a [seed] breeding program. We tell breeders, this trait is good, this trait is not good,” says Buffett. Although Buffett disagrees with groups like Alliance for a Green Revolution for Africa (AGRA) on how to treat soil—“I call the emphasis on soil health the Brown Revolution approach,” he says—he’s aligned with them on seed. To help poor farmers increase yields, he believes they should grow seeds genetically modified for specific growing conditions. This stance has drawn him some criticism. “By dismissing the indigenous knowledge of seeds and soil gained after thousands of years of small farming in Africa, there’s a risk for his good intentions to be undermined,” says Carol Thompson, a professor at Northern Arizona University who has worked

“We’re going to run out of water and soil before we run out of oil. And we’re going to run out of labor before we run out of any of those things.”

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Ike the oxen—or is it Earl?—keeps busy on the Buffett test farm, pulling modified John Deere planters and roller crimpers.

extensively with small farmers in Africa. But because Buffett is a Buffett—independently financed and generally unconcerned by outside opinion—he’s inimitably able to shake things up. To question norms long established in big agriculture and dryland farming. He can say things that other people can’t—can declare that “there shouldn’t be a flood-irrigated acre in this country,” that “migrant labor and immigration issues should be managed under the USDA by people who actually understand agriculture.” And in the midst of rambling anecdotes come sharply insightful comments about the future of food and agriculture in the United States. “We’re going to run out of water and soil before we run out of oil,” he says. “And we’re going to run out of labor before we run out of any of those things.” He believes we should stop subsidizing crop production and instead incentivize innovative farming practices that conserve soil and water. “If you want to understand agriculture,” he says, “follow the money.” Today, as budgets are cut and land grant institutions avoid investing in innovation, Buffett is the money to follow. “You have to be able to try and fail,” he says. “Most of what we’re doing here won’t work. But we can afford to try things that no body else can try.” And he can afford to finance projects that others can’t. In early 2014, the Howard G. Buffett Foundation donated $1.2 million to the Community Food Bank of Southern Arizona, 124 September - October 2014

via its parent organization, Feeding America, to build a food distribution center in Willcox. “This facility will give us a way to capture some of the produce that’s coming out of Mexico into southern Arizona,” says Michael McDonald, the CEO of the Community Food Bank of Southern Arizona. The center is scheduled to open next spring; in the meantime, Buffett continues to donate most of the farm’s harvested pinto beans to the Community Food Bank. “Howard really invests in what he considers are his communities, and he has decided to invest in this community,” says McDonald. “We know he cares about sustainable agriculture and food security, not just hunger—and these are things we care about, too.” And Buffett is happy to keep investing. “I always say, if a farmer here, in this community, wants to try something new but they can’t because they have a family to support and can’t afford to risk the loss, tell us and we’ll try it,” he says. “The more options a society has, the better off you are. [But] success is when people don’t need us anymore.” ✜ Read 40 Chances: Finding Hope in a Hungry World (Simon & Schuster, 2013) for more information about Buffett’s efforts to ﬁght hunger, or visit thehowardgbuffettfoundation.org. Megan Kimble is the managing editor of Edible Baja Arizona. Follow her on Twitter @megankimble.

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Nearly a hundred years after it opened, —30 under the ownership of Richard and Shana Oseran— there’s a little bit of Hotel Congress for everyone. s unday mor ning at Hotel Congress: The Cup Café is full of hungry diners looking to start a new day with a hearty breakfast or shake off a hangover from last night’s overindulgence. Options abound, from the Gunpowder, a bowl filled with turkey chorizo, potatoes, and eggs, to the hearty Braveheart, a plate piled with house-smoked beef brisket atop toast and covered with sautéed spinach, Gruyère cheese, and two poached eggs. A line has formed at the lobby bar, where thirsty patrons are customizing their Bloody Marys with exotic ingredients—avocado, goat cheese, artichokes. The chatter echoing around the cavernous space mixes with bouncy jazz numbers from The Hot Club of Tucson. As lively as it feels now, the lobby was even more charged less than 12 hours ago as the Saturday night crowd ate, drank, and otherwise made merry. Indie band Steff and The Articles were onstage in Club Congress, while the parking lot had been transformed into a plaza for Latin Tropical Block Party. Hundreds of people rolled through the doors looking for a good time. The weekend’s shows brought guests to the hotel for an overnight stay. Richard Oseran is quizzing a young woman who is checking out. Where you from? Queen Creek. Oh yeah? What brought you down to Tucson? The concert. Did you have a good time? Oh, it was awesome. You enjoy your stay here? Everything was great. It’s just the kind of thing Richard likes to hear. “This keeps me alive,” he says. t ’ s a bustling

(Clockwise, from left) Harold Garland has worked as a server at the Cup CafĂŠ for more than 15 years. The popular cafĂŠ, adorned with work by local artists, is often bustling on weekend mornings. Rooms at the Hotel Congress go for $69 in the summer to up to $149 in the winter high season. In lieu of TVs, rooms come equipped with radios.

From brunch to bar: Late on a Saturday night, the lobby of Hotel Congress echoes with music, chatter, and drinks shaken not stirred.

h otel c ongr ess with his wife, Shana Oseran, for nearly three decades. Over that time, the hotel has become renown around the world as a music venue, culinary destination, and historic landmark. The New York Times noted that live bands in Club Congress “often have crowds of dancers spilling out into the lobby”; Esquire magazine observed that “oddballs and rebels and holy drunks from all over the Southwest flock to the Hotel Congress”; and The Washington Post called the hotel the “crown jewel” of Congress Street. Originally built to serve tourists, businessmen, and other travelers, the venerable Hotel Congress has anchored the east end of downtown’s Congress Street for nearly a century. Since its 1919 opening, the hotel has had plenty of ups and downs, including a fire in 1934 that destroyed the hotel’s third-floor rooms and led, in a roundabout way, to a brief capture of John Dillinger, then one of the nation’s most-wanted gangsters. (The hotel celebrates an annual Dillinger’s Days weekend, though even that has not been without a brush with the law; a few years back, a descendant of the Dillinger clan tried to sue the Oserans, claiming he held all rights to the use of Dillinger’s name. The case was settled out of court and the annual historic festival continues.) ichar d has ow ned

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These days, Hotel Congress is a little bit of everything: A restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A nightclub featuring live music and DJs seven days a week. A banquet room available for weddings, political fundraisers, and other events. And, of course, 40 charming, retro rooms for guests. (The accommodations, which range from $69 in the summer to $149 in the winter, don’t have TVs or minibars, but they do have old-time radios and one-of-a-kind paintings on the walls, mostly from local artists.) Joey Burns of the Tucson band Calexico says he’s never seen a place like Hotel Congress in his tours around the United States, Europe, and elsewhere. “There’s no other place on this scale and this sense of style,” says Burns, who remembers playing his first Congress gig some 25 years ago, when he was still with Giant Sand. “All of the staff who have worked there over the years helped influence the direction. And Richard and Shana had an instinct to take the ball and keep running with it, but it was not an easy task. There’s been a lot of time and energy and cost dedicated to this shrine. And that’s what it is, really—it has the glowing aspect of a shrine.”

“I don’t know if we ever had a plan. It all just sort of evolved.”

ichar d and s hana never set out to get into the hospitality business. Their purchase of the hotel was almost accidental. A Phoenix native, Richard had become a criminal-defense lawyer in Tucson—he successfully argued a civil-rights case in the front of the U.S. Supreme Court in the late ’70s—while Shana had moved out west from New York and spent a few years living on Mount Lemmon before getting a degree at the University of Arizona and landing a gig working to get drug addicts into treatment. They met on a blind date. When Ronald Reagan was elected president in 1980, the couple decided it was time to leave the country for a while. With a 2-year-old daughter and a second kid on the way, they struck out to see what the other side of the globe had to offer and landed in New Zealand. It turned out that it didn’t offer enough. By 1984, the Oserans were back in Tucson. Richard went back to practicing law, but in the mid-’80s, many people were getting rich off the real-estate boom. A few friends approached him about teaming

up to buy the Hotel Congress. He recalls visiting the property and noting a group of elderly residents sitting in the lobby, watching an old console TV. “It impressed me as a clean place,” Richard remembers. “It wasn’t seedy. Maybe a little tired.” Before the deal was consummated in 1985, his fellow investors found themselves in a financial jam, so Richard ended up buying the place himself. And then he had to figure out what to do with it. “I don’t know if we ever had a plan,” Richard says. “It all just sort of evolved.” Downtown Tucson was a much different place 30 years ago. Retail stores had been leaving downtown behind for decades, and bars like the Manhattan and the Esquire catered to a seedier clientele. “When we came down here they were finding bodies in the alcove of the [then-shuttered] Rialto,” Richard remembers. Shana remembers chasing drug dealers away from the sidewalks around the hotel. “I went out there and said that if anyone’s going to be doing any business on this corner, it’s going to be me,” she says.

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Mayor Jonathan Rothschild, who has presided over a blossoming of downtown in recent years, credits the Oserans for sticking it out through tough times. “The Oserans were pioneers and spent time developing downtown when it was not fashionable,” says Rothschild. “Hotel Congress is a wonderful eatery, it is a wonderful entertainment venue, it is a center of community activity, and it is one of our prized historic properties.” History is a big deal to the Oserans. Richard has always had an affinity for older buildings. “I was born in 1945,” he says. “All the buildings that I grew up in are basically turn-of-the-century buildings and 1930s buildings. So I’m kind of caught in that era.” The hotel breathes history. Two wooden phone booths remain in the lobby, although a phone company tried to pull them out a few years ago. The hotel’s switchboard is still operational; another switchboard from downtown’s legendary Pioneer Hotel stands nearby. When the chance came to salvage a gorgeous wooden bar from another Congress Street establishment— known over the years as Talk of the Town and Jack’s Pub—the Oserans bought it at auction and then had it installed in Club Congress. “I paid $100 for it,” Richard says. “And then it cost me $20,000 to retrofit it.” For all the historic touches, there are plenty of behind-thescenes efforts to modernize the hotel as well. They’ve installed air conditioning—much to Shana’s relief—as well as solar hot-water heaters, so guests now longer have to depend on 132 September - October 2014

Although Richard and Shana Oseran didn’t set out to own a hotel, they’ve transformed the space into an anchor in the Tucson community.

an aging basement boiler. Much of the electrical system was replaced in recent years and aging pipes often need repair. The brick walls need frequent reinforcement. “We’re always doing something,” Richard says. While they still celebrate the artists who passed through the hotel in the past—the Tap Room is decorated with the work of cowboy artist Pete Martinez, who enjoyed drinking at the bar in the ’30s and ’40s—they’ve put some of Tucson’s best modern artists to work. Painter Joe Pagac has done murals in the club and on a second-floor patio; Daniel Martin Diaz created the elaborate ironwork that frames the club’s stage. The colorful, elaborate symbols that cover the lobby walls were painted by Larry Boyce, a Bay-area artist who would ride his bicycle down to Tucson in the spring and break out his paint once he arrived. Boyce died in 1992; a tribute to him hangs at the front desk. While downtown is booming today, keeping the hotel in business hasn’t always been easy. The last decade has brought a seemingly endless succession of construction projects, including the rebuilding of the Fourth Avenue underpass, the complete rehabilitation of Congress Street for the construction of the recently launched modern streetcar, and the construction of a new MLK housing project across Fifth Avenue. “We’ve survived 12 years of construction on all sides of us,” Richard says.

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s w ith so much of the hotel , Club Congress came about almost by accident. Designer Gary Patch and some of his friends wanted to create a cool club whose theme would change every week, and Richard figured: Why not? Within a few weeks, Shana remembers, lines for the Counter Club were stretching out the door of the hotel. “I thought, what is going on here?” she remembers. As the club’s popularity continued to grow, the Oserans knocked out walls until Club Congress took over the entire southeast corner of the hotel. The list of musicians who have played inside the club or outside on a stage set up in the parking lot is so long that when you ask Dave Slutes, the hotel’s entertainment director, about his favorite shows, he draws a blank. “That’s too much,” he says. “From the Lazy Cowgirls and the Feelies in the early ’80s to the—there have been a million shows. I’m actually paralyzed thinking about it, because there have been so many great shows. There are too many. My social

life has revolved around this place. I fell for my wife when she performed onstage here.” Slutes, a musician whose local bands have included the Sand Rubies, Silverfox, and the Zsas-Zsas, says that “in some ways, I think I have the best job in town—for me, at least, as a musician working in a popular venue where we bring in all sorts of artists, music and otherwise. It’s always busy, always challenging but always fun. There’s no other place like it that I can imagine. All these little parts make up something much bigger.” Southern Arizona Congressman Ron Barber has done getout-the-vote concerts as well as benefits for the Fund for Civility, Respect and Understanding, a nonprofit group that he formed in the wake of the Jan. 8, 2011, mass shooting in Tucson. “The Oserans have done a lot to welcome community groups and political groups to use the venue,” Barber said. “I have nothing but the highest praise for them and what they’ve done to create a really strong attraction there. I think they have a big vision and have done a lot to bring it into reality.”

The latticework surrounding the Club Congress stage— which has hosted an extensive and varied roster of bands— was designed by local artist Daniel Martin Díaz.

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(Above) Bill Roberts crafted many of the recipes for the deserts that fill the ever-rotating display case at Cup Café, all of which are made in house. (Top right) The Maynards’ happy hour is “the Oserans’s gift to Tucson,” says MOCA director Anne-Marie Russell. (Bottom right) Every night before dinner service, the wait staﬀ at Maynards’ inspects and cleans the glassware on every table.

t ’ s a similar story with the Cup Café. The Oserans never really wanted to run a restaurant, so they originally leased the space out to Anne Bowen and Jefferson Bailey, who opened Bowen & Bailey Café in what is now the first room in the Cup. When Bowen & Bailey moved to a larger space in 1990, the Oserans decided it was time to take over the restaurant themselves. There wasn’t much to work with: a convection oven, two hot plates and a three-compartment stove. Over the years, the Cup has undergone numerous remodels and expansions and now fills the northwest corner of the building, with additional seating on the patio outside. Still, there’s often a wait to get a table on busy nights or weekend mornings. The Cup is open almost every day a year—Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s Day. “There are a lot of people with no place to go,” Shana says. “They have no family or they’re away from their family and they come here to be with somebody.” It only closes for a few days in the summer so the staff can give the kitchen a thorough cleaning and shine up the Cup’s penny floor. Richard says he wants the Cup to be “exactly what it is.” “It’s hard to describe,” he explains. “I guess you have to say it’s a comfortable, eclectic café that serves great food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.” The menu is indeed eclectic. Breakfast— served until 4 p.m. for late risers—features the usual eggs, omelets, and pancakes, but you’ll also find crêpes filled with seasonal berries, a tofu scramble with fresh herbs and vegan sausage, and a dish of eggs, leeks, and Gruyère cheese baked in cream and delivered in a small cast-iron skillet. Lunch is a wide selection of soups, salads, and sandwiches, including the house-made brisket— the aroma of barbecue often drifts across the parking lot from the smoker—topped with chimichurri, Jack cheese, pepper slaw, chipotle mayo, and pickled onions; a thick, Angus beef burger; and the legendary Queer Steer veggie burger, crafted from quinoa and oats. Dinner ranges from jambalaya to rainbow trout to a pork tenderloin brined in cider and served alongside cranberry beans, spinach, butternut squash, and roasted fennel ragoût, with a touch of sweetness provided by a currant chutney and pears poached in white wine. One of Richard’s favorite dishes is a chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms and

goat cheese, served with butternut gnocchi in a Madeira wine sauce. “I swear to God, I could pick up that plate and lick it afterwards,” he says. While the menu has plenty of temptations, the most alluring might be the Cup’s dessert carousel, filled with pies, cakes, and other sumptuous treats baked on the property. The desserts were created Bill Roberts, who says the recipes were just something he came up with: “Some I steal, some I combine, some I make up … You might say I’ve put lots of fat on people over the years.” Roberts worked in the kitchen for many years—once, in a flash of anger after dropping a freshly made pie on the floor, he threw a plate across the room and through one of the hotel’s plate-glass windows; he paid for the repair and for several years the Oserans were none the wiser—but eventually he wanted to try his hand at accounting. The Oserans put him to work on the hotel’s books, a job he still holds today. Roberts says there’s a reason people love the hotel: “Everybody thinks they own a little part of it and it means something to everybody.”

our years ago , the Oserans decided to take a risk and asked the city for the chance to manage the restaurant space across the street in the historic train depot after a rival restaurant failed. Richard says—only half-jokingly—that the main motivation was to get more parking spaces for his hotel’s guests because the city kept eliminating spots that his customers used. (We won’t get into the long battles they fought with city planners, attorneys, and city council members.) So was born Maynards Market + Kitchen, a spot that has gone through its own share of fits and starts. Most recently, the market space was trimmed back to make more room for a coffee counter, but they still carry a number of wares from local merchants, including Lusby’s Honey, Isabella’s Ice Cream, Tucson Tamale Company, and Caffe Luce Coffee. The Oserans plan to start offering chef’s dinners—entire meals that you can take home and heat up in your own kitchen—and hope to bring back a weekend farmers’ market. The restaurant celebrates locomotive culture, which is entirely appropriate, given that Union Pacific trains roll past the restaurant’s spacious back patio dozens of times each day. Train

rails serve as decoration; the front door features a steampunk latch with visible gears; the long, narrow dining room, with its crisp white tablecloths, evokes a train’s dining car. It’s not unusual to see waiters taking extra care to polish the glasses and silverware ahead of each day’s opening. “We believe it’s the little details that are going to set us apart,” says Jared Scott, who took over as executive chef earlier this year after working about four years in the kitchen. “Everyone who works here takes a lot of pride in what they do.” Scott plans to mix up the dinner menu a bit this fall but intends to keep the general style of a French bistro, serving dry-aged steaks, a seasonal salmon dish, confit duck leg salad, and the like. Scott is especially partial to the lamb shank, which he braised in a German Riesling instead of the traditional red wine. “It takes a lot of the heaviness associated with lamb out of the dish,” he says. “It’s a bit lighter, it’s just fun for me right now.” While Maynards is not focused on a farm-to-table ethos, Scott does try to use local ingredients when he can: produce from Sleeping Frogs Farm, fresh eggs from ReZoNation farm, bread from downtown’s Small Planet Bakery. “We do our best we can to utilize local and small businesses,” Scott says. Maynards hosts a wine tasting every week and once a month, Scott assembles a special dinner to accompany the tasting. The August dinner featured Australian wines paired with a rack of lamb, short ribs pot pie, and a dessert of lamington, “which is similar to sponge cake and has chocolate and coconut and a lot of fun things,” Scott says. While the restaurant isn’t yet performing as well as the Oserans would like, it has its loyal fans. Anne-Marie Russell, the executive director of Tucson’s Museum of Contemporary Art, calls the happy hour menu—which includes pizzas, salads, a generous burger and fries, and other dishes for just $7—“the Oserans’ gift to Tucson.” At 310 E. Congress, the front doors are always open. 138 September - October 2014

n the late ’90 s , the Oserans decided to take a more handson approach to managing the hotel. Shana quit her job to focus on the hotel while Richard eased back on his legal work. Later, they brought in their sonin-law, Todd Hanley, to become the general manager. As a result, it’s become a family business. And in some cases, longtime employees have started to feel like family. Just last year, the hotel’s bar was renamed Tiger’s Tap Room after Tom “Tiger” Ziegler, the longtime bartender who started serving drinks in 1959. Tiger is now healing from injuries suffered in a car accident, but when he’s ready to return, there will be a job waiting for the 81-year-old bartender. And there are always more stories—about the original residents who were living in the hotel when the Oserans purchased it; about the ghosts that some people— though not Richard and Shana— have seen walking the halls; about the time the SWAT team did a drill next door, complete with gunfire and explosives, without warning the Congress staff. But ultimately, it comes down to taking care of Hotel Congress. “Our philosophy is to preserve and perpetuate the hotel as a community asset,” Richard says. Richard is proud of the fact that the wooden doors—original, historic doors—on the hotel’s south entrance don’t have locks because the hotel never really closes. As he puts it, “I like to think that when you push those doors open, it’s your door and your place. And it is. It really is. Without people who come here, it wouldn’t exist.“ ✜

Hotel Congress. 311 E. Congress St. 520.622.8848. HotelCongress.com. Lloyd Charles is a Tucson-based reporter.

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SABORES DE SONORA

Tepache & Tesguino Exploring the fermented beverages of Mexico. Text and photography by Bill Steen

food and drink are “in” again. Sauerkraut is back from obscurity. Korean kimchee, made from vegetables like Napa cabbage, green onions, and radish, has found its way into foods never before imagined, like kimchee quesadillas. Kombucha, a lightly fermented beverage originally from China and made from black tea, can now be found on tap at trendy health-oriented restaurants. Less noted but closer to home are a pair of lightly fermented drinks, tepache and tesguino, that have their roots in this part of the world. To find them, one need look no further than south of the border. In addition to beer, Mexico has a long tradition of fermenting alcoholic beverages, such as pulque, tepache, and tesguino (sometimes spelled teswino, teswin, or tiswin). Pulque, which requires a mature agave plant, is a complex process and not something that is easily undertaken except by dedicated and true aficionados of the beverage. On the other hand, tepache (tay-paw-chay) and tesguino (tes-ween-o) are relatively easy to make. er mented

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Tepache, which is commonly made from the skins of pineapples (and sometimes other fruits), is the easier of the two to prepare. Tesguino, made from corn, is more involved. Fermented corn beverages are made and have been made historically by ethnic cultures in Mexico, and in Central and South America, as well as the southwestern United States. The Tarahumara Indians of the Sierra Madre in Mexico still regard tesguino as sacred, and it remains an integral part of their everyday lives. For a deeper look into these beverages, I traveled to the Rio Sonora valley of northern Mexico, to the tiny town of La Estancia de Aconchi to spend some time in the home of Armida Elena Contreras. Armida is my go-to person when it comes to traditional Sonoran recipes of all kinds. She’s a great cook, in no small part because much of what she makes, including these drinks, are what she ate and drank growing up. (Above) Raise a glass of tepache for a refreshing treat on a hot summer’s day. (Right) All you need to make tepache is a ripe watermelon, piloncillo sugar, and a dash of spices.

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Tepache

he lightly fer mented drink called tepache involves little more than combining pineapple rind with Mexican brown sugar, called piloncillo, and a few spices, and letting it sit for two or three days. Longer fermentation will result in very nice mild pineapple vinegar. Either way, it’s a great way to use up pineapple scraps that would go into the compost. Tepache has low alcohol content, less than beer, and is typically consumed by all ages. It’s sort of like an effervescent, somewhat probiotic, soft drink. If you want more alcohol, add beer to your tepache to give it a little more punch. Unpasteurized beer can also be added to supplement the fermentation. In Mexico, tepache is hard to find outside of people’s homes. If you find a street vendor selling it, take advantage of the opportunity—it’ll likely be delicious. Tepache has also started showing up north of the border in Mexican neighborhoods, often where licuados are served. In Tucson, try your own glass of ready-made tepache at Penca Restaurant, either straight up or in a cocktail, like their Bourbon and Tepache cocktail, featured in Bon Appétit. When making tepache, some cooks add other fruit besides pineapple, or the skins of those fruits, like apple and quince skins. For that matter, what is called tepache can be made with any type of fruit, although in Mexico, it is predominantly made with pineapple. Like so many things in Mexico, there is no exact recipe for the drink, only general guidelines. It’s pretty much up to the whims of whoever is making it. Feel free to try varying combinations. The nice thing about visiting Armida is that I always know where to find the tepache. During the summer months, the best time for tepache, there is always a pitcher on her kitchen table ready to accompany any meal or to be enjoyed by itself.

Tepache from the kitchen of Armida Elena Contreras The skin of 1 pineapple and the core, finely chopped 2 piloncillo cones 2 cloves 1 stick of Mexican cinnamon ½ teaspoon of anise seed Water to cover all ingredients, typically 3 to 4 quarts

Combine all ingredients in a large ceramic, glass, or food-grade bucket. Cover with a cloth and let sit for 2 days. After 2 or 3 days, strain the solids and let the liquid sit for another day. It’s a good idea to check the taste daily. Often the consistency of the tepache can be a little thick, so water can be added to achieve the desired consistency. At home we often add carbonated water. Typically tepache is served with ice. Sweetener can be added, as well as beer—or tequila—for more alcohol; consider finishing your drink with a squeeze of lime and a touch of chile. In Mexico, tepache is sometimes served with heavier food because of the enzymes it contains. 142 September - October 2014

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Tesguino

versions of this beverage. The first is from the Rio Sonora region in northern Mexico, while the other follows the general guidelines used by the Tarahumara Indians of the Sierra Madre. The Rio Sonora version is much simpler and uses dry toasted corn kernels, while the Tarahumara version relies upon corn that has been germinated and is cooked for a longer period of time. There is also a difference of importance between the two versions. The Sonoran version was more common before beer became accessible, made often for fiestas and special occasions, as well as for a casual drink. Today, I find it next to impossible to imagine tesguino being substituted for Tecate at a town fiesta. On the other hand, for the Tarahumara, tesguino has great social and cultural importance and is used in everything from healing

ceremonies to work parties, sporting events, meetings, settling of disputes, fiestas, and more. Tesguino is a very different drink from tepache. Tesguino is typically thicker, somewhat resembling a thin porridge. It hovers in the realm between food and beverage. (Although, of course, it can be diluted with water.) Of the two types, the Rio Sonoran version is the lighter of the two. As with tepache it is commonly served to children when diluted with water. Field corn is different from sweet corn. It contains more starch and typically is grown for feed and milling. Unfortunately, much of the field corn grown in the United States is genetically modified and avoiding it is a good idea. Sources for organic or non-GMO corn include health food stores, co-ops, or growers in Mexico where genetically modified corn has been banned.

Corn tesguino from the kitchen of Armida Elena Contreras

Tesguino from sprouted corn

have included two

5 ½ 2 3 10 1 ½ 5-6 2 1 1

quarts of water cups of lightly toasted dry corn kernels (not browned or golden) stems (chicatas de mazorea) from the base of the corn cob whole cloves tablespoon yeast cup flour sticks of Mexican cinnamon tablespoons anise seeds pound of piloncillo or brown sugar dried orange peel

Mix yeast and flour and enough water to shape it into a small ball. Wrap in a cotton cloth and let it sit to double its volume. Put all the ingredients into a glass or ceramic container, cover with a cloth and allow for sit for four to five days without stirring. The fermentation rate will depend upon the time of year. Warmer temperatures equal faster fermentation. Strain the liquid and add sweetener and water, if desired. Leave some liquid and solids in the original container. Adjust with additional water and sugar.

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For this adaptation of methods used by the Tarahumara Indians, use 1 pound of sprouted, dry field corn instead of the lightly toasted dry corn kernels. Yield is approximately 2 quarts. You can sprout the corn in a number of ways. Traditionally the corn was soaked, wrapped in a cotton cloth, and buried in damp ground for several days until the corn sprouted. However, any method that is used for sprouting grains and beans will work. One way is to soak the corn in a gallon jar for approximately 24 hours and drain well. Place the soaked corn in another container and put it in a dark space or cover to protect from the light. Rinse several times a day. When the sprouts reach a length of about one inch, the corn is ready. (This can take up to about a week.) The sprouted corn can either be mashed or ground. If you don’t have a hand mill, a food processor will work well. To cook the corn paste, add water and cook on a low flame for 12 hours or more. This slow cooking develops the sugar of the corn and transforms it into a sweeter syrup-like consistency. Dilute with more water, strain, and let cool. To culture the cooked corn paste, the Tarahumara place the cooked paste mixture in a clay jar or olla called a tesguino that is dedicated to this use. Since these vessels are never washed, the yeast needed for fermentation is already established. Chances are you will not own one of these pots, so you will need to introduce a yeast or starter. You have many options here, ranging from a simple packet of yeast to starters used for bread. Contact a beer- or wine-making store for supplies. Keep the fermenting corn in a location that is free from a lot of temperature fluctuation. You’ll know it’s ready after the mixture starts bubbly vigorously. When the bubbling slows down, usually within about a week, drink up or refrigerate for later.

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BUZZ

What We Talk About When We Talk About Wine Discerning the language of taste. By Dave Mondy | Photomicrographs by Donna DeConcini

r i v ulet of r ed runs down the neck. It hangs a moment on the lip before the wine splashes into the inverted bell of Riedel stemware. See it? See the wine settling into the center of the glass? No sooner has it settled before some unseen hand swirls the stem, sending the wine sample racing around the inside of the glass like a motorcycle stuntman racing round the interior of the metal-mesh globe at a sideshow. And then descends The Nose. We all know This Nose. We’ve all been at some point, at some dinner, where The Nose descends. For example, the owner of The Nose, after taking a long sniff, might declare: “Soft and sensuous—quite an improvement over the ’67s, which were unstylish and flabby.” Or perhaps the owner of The Nose says, “It’s a naïve domestic Burgundy, without any breeding, but I think you’ll be amused by its pretension.”

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James Thurber wrote that last one in a 1936 cartoon—even then, the way we talk about wine was a source of humor. And still we have all met, in some form, The Nose. But we are all not Adrienne Lehrer. Lehrer happens to be a lauded linguist and professor emerita at the University of Arizona who has spent a fine part of her professional career studying just how we talk about wine. She first stumbled onto this path back in the ’60s when, as she describes in the opening of her book Wine & Conversation, she’d be at a dinner party where “some person, usually a man, would hold up a glass of wine to let the candlelight shine through, swirl it around, and make some pronouncement” as in the quote above: soft and sensuous; unstylish and flabby. After she was offered a linguistics position in California, several friends asked what she might research. “I was just joking,” she told me, “but I told them: I’ll study wine language.” And this is, eventually, exactly what she did. She learned what we talk about when we talk about wine.

These are photographs of wine as seen under a microscope. The solids isolated in the images are yeast particles that are crystalizing sugar, eventually dissolving over the life of a wine. Wines that are beautiful on the palate are also beautiful to the eye. Form and taste are hand-in-hand. Sugar is smooth; lemon is jagged. This specimen is a 1984 Johannesburg Riesling that was two years old when photographed. It is similar to chardonnay, but is a bit more aggressive in both form and taste.

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These four photomicrographs of a drop of wine show the progression of a California Chardonnay over its lifespan. The top scan is from a young one-year-old wine, to three years, six years, and 14 years, when it’s considered oxidized and past its prime. The yeast is still visible and closed in the young wine. As it ages, the wine forms a bull’s-eye shaped crystal, until eventually it dissolves into the background.

150 September - October 2014

ho car es w hat we talk about when we talk about wine? Well, I know one person: You! You care. You are reading a food magazine, and as Lehrer points out in her book, we now use wine-ish language to talk about beer, coffee, food, even music. It turns out that we use the rich, metaphorical language of wine words whenever we have “the problems of finding appropriate language for experience in other sensory domains.” Another person who cares what we talk about when we talk about wine? That’d be me. I stumbled across her book when I began writing about wine, beer, and liquor, and eventually I figured I’d better figure out what I was saying. I must admit, delving into Lehrer’s book feels alternately academic and revelatory; one wades through linguistics charts and then falls flush into unconsidered revelations. One revelation: Most of the time when we talk about taste, we aren’t really talking about taste. We’re actually talking about a combination of scent, mouthfeel, and taste. Here’s the thing: scent is the sense with all the complexity. A tongue only discerns four basic tastes: sweet, sour, bitter, and salty (and also, some think, a fifth, umami, which in Japanese means savory or pungent). The great Nose, however, can perceive “10,000 to 100,000 chemicals as having distinct odors, all of which are small volatile molecules,” writes Lehrer. Indeed, when you taste your favorite food, you’re really only tasting sweet, sour, bitter, salty, or savory, combined with many, far more subtle scents. If you love a particular steak, you really love the complexity of scent more than its taste, arguably. The Nose, alas, has a good reason for sniffing so ostentatiously. With food and drink, we’re far more beholden to scents than tastes. The next revelation hit me in the form of a classic philosophical question: “How do I know that what I see as ‘red’ is what you see as ‘red’?” Or, with wine: If what I always perceive as “bitter” is what you always perceive as “sweet” … how would we ever know? And though Lehrer says, “we don’t have to worry about this problem” (called the “inverted spectrum” in philosophy-talk), she does note that we can test what people actually taste in comparison to others. As it turns out, we have very different thresholds for taste—which means that there are “supertasters” out there. “Some people can taste things others cannot. And even where everyone can taste a stimulus, like sugar, individual thresholds vary,” says Lehrer. “The supertasters can perceive tastes at a much lower level of intensity.” The words we use in writing about food and wine are “interesting,” said Lehrer when I interviewed her in her home near the University of Arizona. “Because they’re not hopelessly complex like philosophy words, but not overly simple, like color words. “If you’re talking about two people’s experiences of a painting,” she said, gesturing at one of the many pieces of art on the walls, “you can at least point to line and form. ‘See that shadow,’ you can say. But when you’re talking about taste, there’s nothing to point to. All you can use are words.” And I thought of the famous quote, variously attributed, that seems as true for wine as song: “Writing about music is like dancing about architecture.” Though touched on in her first book, her fascination with culinary language stuck with her long after—until she’d ac-

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These photomicrographs show the progression of California Chardonnay. The first is a one-year-old wine, with the yeast in a cocoon state. The second image, aged three years, shows its crystals, as well as its flavor, starting to blossom. The fourth slide is about five years old, considered the wine’s peak. The fifth slide shows an eight-year-old chardonnay that is beginning to lose its flavor, which can happen as the crystals dissipate. 152 September - October 2014

cepted a professorship in Tucson. In the 1970s, with no real funding, she cobbled together her own studies on the fly. She got together 18 wine drinkers in Tucson—“one thing about this work,” she said “is that it’s always easy to find volunteers for studies”—and had them meet regularly to taste wine and talk about the wine and, crucially, to talk about how they talk about the wine. Today, many linguists have followed her lead, confirming her results with much larger sample sizes and expensive equipment. For her studies, instead of lab equipment she was “buying stuff at the drugstore,” like test strips for diabetics which she used to try to detect, say, sugar levels in a wine. Another question: When someone says a wine is “bold”… is it actually bold? The answer is: no. I mean: yes. I mean: it depends whom you talk to. If you are talking to a person with whom you’ve mutually tasted a lot of wine, you can sometimes determine what you two mean by your descriptions. But if someone came new to the group, it might not reflect their experience at all. Because much of what we say about wine has meaning to small, close-knit groups, but not necessarily to those outside those groups. Of course, that’s only for amateurs. Lehrer also analyzed the elect—experts and wine writers. It turns out the “experts”—many of whom are supertasters— can actually perform better than the rest of us at blind tests— but it’s unclear how much better, and even this success only occurs with wine types on which the experts are “well-trained.” “For example,” she said, “my suspicion would be that Wine Spectator writers could all identify qualities that they could all, accurately, find in the same wines.” Also, she notes that the best of these writers seem to have an extraordinary memory for taste; they can recall highly specific tastes from years ago. They’re highly attuned. “I occasionally play piano,” she said, “but I can’t tune a piano.” And yet, they may know less than they think they know—or at least still have a hard time communicating it. In her book, Lehrer mentions that, in one study, it took six months to a year to train a panel of expert tasters to use a vocabulary where “all panel members know the exact connotation of each descriptive term applied to the product under study.” Perhaps the only truly accurate wine language is that used by wine scientists—scientists who are now using technologies like gas chromatography and fMRI to figure out the compounds related to specific tastes. For example, a certain vegetative aroma found in a Sauvignon Blanc contained “a specific compound also found in bell peppers.” This both amazed and frightened me. “Do you think,” I asked, “we could ever get to the point where a scientist could test for certain compounds and tell us if a wine is actually ‘bold’?” She smiled. “Like reading a score for music? I wouldn’t worry. We’re not there yet.” With her wine words banging about my brain, I sought out the closest wine tasting I could find. I wanted to hear people talk about wine. Maynards Market, in downtown Tucson, was hosting a weekly around-the-world wine tour, and this week they were stopping in Germany. After I paid for my glass and

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sat down at the long wooden table in the market’s airy, moderne interior, Kathy and Ken sat down. Kathy, with white bob, introduced herself with a quick-draw laugh full of an odd blend of mischief and generosity. Ken, too, was a man more than happy to talk about wine talk, enjoying being part of Maynards’ wine club and laughing about wine clubs. And wine words: “Listen, I read Wine Spectator, but they use these words for wines. Like ‘approachable.’ What does that even mean? All wines are approachable. I approach them and drink them,” he said, as he stood to get a second tasting. And as he sat back down, he greeted three middle-aged women sitting down next to us; they’d all met previously at Maynards’ last wine dinner and greeted each other with the insta-conviviality these events seemed to confer. These women loved to talk about talking about wine. Though they didn’t want to be attributed directly, the conversation blossomed into a free-flowing dialogue cribbed from some unreleased episode of “Sex and the City.” “The nose on this one is generous,” one said. “I think it’s inviting,” said another. “How inviting?” “I think it’s a bit coquettish …” “So we do talk about wines like women.” “This one is smart for a blonde.” “The difference between a wine and a woman,” said Ken, “is that I’ve never had a wine slap me.” “I’ve woken up feeling like it has,” I said. “This one is bitter,” one of the women said. “Doesn’t have proper body.” “Are we talking about women again?”

A photomicrograph of a two-year-old Cabernet from Kendall-Jackson.

154 September - October 2014

“What’s the name of this Riesling?” “Dr. Loosen,” she said, emphasis on the “loose.” “Paging Dr. Loosen.” “I want an appointment with Dr. Loosen …” “See, talking about wine can be fun,” one said. “Talking about wine is part of the fun of wine.” One of the three, a librarian, was convinced she had a much worse palate than her friends and refrained from offering her opinion on any of the scents or tastes. Finally, when tasting our last Pinot Noir, her friends encouraged her to offer an opinion. “The nose is … difficult,” she said. “Not easy.” “See,” said her more palate-confident friend, “you’re getting it. Look what I wrote about this one. I didn’t like it.” “I didn’t say I didn’t like it,” replied the librarian, “I said it wasn’t easy. Some really worthwhile things are not easy.” We all considered that for a moment. Shambling on home, I replayed various conversations in my mind, and thought: This is another thing we talk about when we talk about wine; it’s part of what we like about wine tastings. Talk jumps from Taste to Truth, from Decantation to Deception, from Sweetness to Sex, all in the time it takes to swirl a Gewürztraminer. And we were making friends, too. Indeed, there’s a word for this: phatic communication. We use language to “test one’s experience of reality and to share an experience” and this often leads to phatic communication, which is “usually characterized as language used to establish social bonds,” writes Lehrer. A common example is “It’s a nice day” or, in Tucson, “It’s so hot.” We’re not trying to inform or learn—simply to bond, to agree. But Lehrer notes that phatic communication works best when we are trying to bond and actually can talk about something; where both the text and subtext mean something. As when tasting wine. But perhaps I’m muddying the waters. After all, Lehrer also noted that wine writers themselves shape a lot of how we talk about wine. “They get bored using the same words,” she said, “and make up metaphors to amuse readers.” After our conversation, she sent me an email with this anecdote: After she gave a presentation on Wine & Conversation, a young wine writer approached and admitted that sometimes “wine writers just make up descriptions.” He said he once described a wine as having “the aroma of quince. He suspected that no one reading the article had ever tasted quince. And, in fact, neither had he!” So if wine writers really do shape wine conversation itself, here’s my contribution: I’m intensely happy that neither scientists nor experts can, as of yet, tell us exactly what we’re tasting. I’m glad it’s still up to interpretation. It gives us all something to talk about in the moments after we raise our glasses and say, Cheers! ✜ Read Adrienne Lehrer’s Wine & Conversation (Oxford University Press, 2009) to learn more about the language of wine. Dave Mondy is a freelance writer/imbiber and a college instructor.

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Booze News By Megan Kimble

All the news that’s fit to drink

ocally br ewed cr af t beer fans will have another reason to rejoice when Pueblo Vida Brewing opens Aug. 29 at 115 E. Broadway Blvd. Starting with a Northwest IPA, a Bavarian Hefeweizen, and a Breakfast Stout, the new brewer, who has deep hospitality roots in Tucson—his great grandmother owned and built The Shelter—will eventually feature eight beers, two of which will rotate seasonally. In addition, BK Carne Asada & Hot Dogs will have a permanent stand in front of the brewery. Good news for Yuma: Beer has found its craft. As of August 29, Prison Hill Brewing Company will be refreshing this desert city at the confluence of Mexico, California, and Arizona with fresh, local brews. From the couple that started Yuma’s Pint House, the first bar with craft brews on tap, plus a University of Arizona alum as brewmaster, the brewery will honor its desert heritage—as well as the tradition of its namesake building, the old (now-shuttered) Territorial Prison. If local brew is bubbling, then local wine is positively brimming. Two new family-run wineries opened their doors this summer in Willcox: Sierra Bonita Vineyards and Bodega Pierce Winery & Tasting Room. The family behind Bodega Pierce has been making wine for two years, selling their bottles through Four Eight Winework’s tasting room in Clarkdale; they finally opened the doors of their Willcox tasting room this May. Father-and-son team Dan and Michael Pierce studied viticulture at University of California at Davis and Washington State, returning home to Arizona to grow their grapes. While Dan and his wife, Barbara, manage the vineyard, Michael will be stepping into the new role as director of the enology program at the Southwest Wine Center at Yavapai College in Clarkdale. (In case you’re wondering but didn’t want to ask, “enology” refers to the study of all aspects of winemaking except growing and harvesting grapes, which falls under the rubric of “viticulture.”) 4011 E. Robbs Road, Willcox. BodegaPierce.com. Sierra Bonita Vineyards owner Jeff Smith jokes that their winery is so family run, even their kids help out. And with an enologist sister working in Napa flying down to consult on their production, the family is poised to make some good wine. They’ve been at it since 1996, when they planted their first vines in Willcox, “but it was a sort of make-your-own wine situation,”

156 September - October 2014

WHEN YOU SAVE WATER YOU SAVE OUR RIVERS says Smith. “Eventually we got good enough that we decided we might be able to sell it.” Evidently, they weren’t the only ones who thought so—their 2009 Syrah took silver at last year’s Arizona Winegrowers Festival at the Farm. Visit their Tucson tasting room to try a sip (but not too soon, as it’s closed for harvest until October). 6720 E. Camino Principal, Suite 101. SierraBonitaVineyards.com. Farther down the road, New Zealand filmmaker-turned-winemaker Sam Pillsbury of Pillsbury Wine Company has started construction on its own crush facility on the 100-acre vineyard 13 miles south of Willcox. Although Pillsbury has been making 100 percent locally sourced wines since he first planted vines in Willcox in 2000, he’d been making wines under custom crush contracts with local wineries. No longer. “The new facility will give us the opportunity to complete the circle, and actually make and age the wine right here where the grapes are grown,” he said. Pillsbury Wine Company also grows its own organic fruits and vegetables, eggs, poultry, sheep, and goats, which it supplies to select area restaurants. 6540 S. Bennett Place. PillsburyWine.com. September can still be sweltering in Tucson; take the edge off the back-to-school blues with new go-cone drinks at Good Oak Bar. The Melo Yelo is made from a malvasia base, with canary, kincho, blueberry, honey, apple, citrus, and a zinfandel float; the Pink Panther starts with a rosé and zinfandel base and ends with strawberry, mango, jicama, pluot, citrus, and agave, with a Vienna lager float. Topped with a bouquet of fresh herbs—mint and basil, respectively—they’re bound to brighten your step. 316 E. Congress St. If you’re looking for a bounce in your step of the less alcoholic, more caffeinated variety, swing by Stella Java at the Mercado San Agustin, where they’ll soon be roasting their own beans under the name Presta Coffee Roasters. “We’re also going to be geeking out on new brewing equipment,” says owner Curtis Zimmerman. One such drink to emerge from their geekery: The nitrous cold brew, which, emerging from a nitrous tap, comes with a creamy head, much like a nitrous brew. It’s a delicious way to get another kind of buzz. 100 S. Avenida del Convento, Suite 180. 520.777.1496. StellaJava.com. ✜

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SONOITA/ELGIN & TOMBSTONE WINE MAP To Tuc s

on/Ph

Exit #281

oenix

To New M

exico

6.3 Mi. 1

Sonoita

1 km N

Lower Elgin Rd. Phoenix

m 15 nia ( o g a t to Pa

St.

t. th S

Elgin ford

St.

Note: Many roads have been omitted for clarity.

1 2

CHARRON VINEYARDS

18585 S. Sonoita Hwy, Vail 520-762-8585 CharronVineyards.com Fri–Sun: 10-6

AZ HOPS & VINES

3450 Hwy 82, Sonoita 520-955-4249 AZHopsAndVines.com Thurs: 11-4, Fri-Sun: 10-6

WILHELM FAMILY VINEYARDS

21 Mtn. Ranch Dr., Elgin 520-455-9291 WilhelmFamilyVineyards.com Oct–April: Daily 11-5 May–Sept: Fri – Sun 11-5 Mon-Thurs by Appointment

DOS CABEZAS WINEWORKS 3248 Hwy 82, Sonoita 520-455-5141 DosCabezasWinery.com Thurs–Sun: 10:30-4:30

6 7

RANCHO ROSSA VINEYARDS 32 Cattle Ranch Ln., Elgin 520-455-0700 RanchoRossa.com Fri–Sun: 10:30-3:30

N5 Saf

To Bi sbee (25 min. )

Elgin

t. N4

To Sierra Vista (30 min.)

th S

St.

rd S

st S

llen

Tombstone EA

45 min. to Sonoita via Hwy 82 75 min. to Tucson via I-10 3 hours to Phoenix via I-10

Elgin Rd.

Tucson

Sonoita/Elgin

Elgin Rd.

Tombstone

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Las Cienegas National Conservation Area

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CALLAGHAN VINEYARDS 336 Elgin Road, Elgin 520-455-5322 CallaghanVineyards.com Thurs–Sun: 11-4

FLYING LEAP VINEYARDS 342 Elgin Road, Elgin 520-954-2935 FlyingLeapVineyards.com Wed-Sun: 11-4 Mon-Tues: By Appointment

KIEF-JOSHUA VINEYARDS 370 Elgin Road, Elgin 520-455-5582 KiefJoshuaVineyards.com Daily: 11-5

VILLAGE

To Ft. Huachuca (50 min.) Sierra Vista (1 hr.)

ELGIN

471 Elgin Road, Elgin 520-455-9309 ElginWines.com Daily: 11-5

W W 12 T15 N 4th St, Tombstone OMBSTONE

V 10 S290 Elgin Canelo Rd., Elgin ONOITA

INEYARDS

520-455-5893 SonoitaVineyards.com Daily: 10-4

11 L2368 Hwy 83,RElgin IGHTNING

IDGE

CELLARS

520-455-5383 LightningRidgeCellars.com Fri-Sun: 11-4

INE

ORKS

520-261-1674 TombstoneWinery.com Daily: 12-6

W 13 S334 E AllenS St., Tombstone ILVER

TRIKE

INERY

520-678-8200 SilverStrikeWinery.com Daily: 12-6

14 H3989 State’HwyH 82, Elgin ANNAH S

ILL

(520) 456-9000 HannahsHill.com By Appointment Only

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WILLCOX AREA & BISBEE WINE MAP Fort G ra nt Rd .

From Exit #331 1 Hour to Tucson 1 hour to Sonoita 3 Hours to Phoenix

. Ave

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W. Rex Allen Dr.

186 4

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min

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Tucson

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3 From Bisbee

1 hour to Sonoita 2 Hours to Tucson

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St.

500’ 152m

7 8 9 10

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Note: Many roads have been omitted for clarity.

SAND-RECKONER 130 S. Haskell Avenue 303.931.8472 Sand-Reckoner.com By Appointment Only FLYING LEAP VINEYARDS: WILLCOX TASTING ROOM 100 N. Railroad Avenue 520.384.6030 FlyingLeapVineyards.com Wed-Sun: 12-6 KEELING SCHAEFER 154 N. Railroad Avenue 520.766.0600 KeelingSchaeferVineyards.com Wed-Sun: 11-5 CARLSON CREEK 115 Railroad Avenue 520.766.3000 CarlsonCreek.com Daily 11-5 ARIDUS TASTING ROOM 145 N Railview Ave 520.766.9463 AridusWineCo.com Sat-Sun: 11-5, Mon-Fri: Appt. Only ARIDUS CRUSH FACILITY 1126 N. Haskell Avenue 520.766.2926 Mon-Fri: 11-5, Sat-Sun: By Appt.

11 12 13 14 15 16

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336

Exit #318

(3 hrs. to Las Cruces

to New Mexico

Exit #

Exit #331

191

Business Loop

PASSION CELLARS AT SALVATORE VINEYARDS 3052 N. Fort Grant Road 602.750.7771 PassionCellars.com By Appointment Only CORONADO VINEYARDS 2909 E. Country Club Drive 520.384.2993 Mon-Sat: 9:30-5:30, Sun: 10-4 BODEGA PIERCE TASTING ROOM 4511 E. Robbs Road 602.320.1722 Sunday 11a-5p or by appt. PILLSBURY VINEYARD 6450 S. Bennett Place 520.384.3964 Pillsburywine.com Thurs-Sun: 11-5, Mon-Wed: By Appointment Only ZARPARA VINEYARDS 6777 S. Zarpara Lane 602.885.8903 Zarpara.com Fri-Sun: 11-5, Mon-Thurs: By Appt. KEELING SCHAEFER VINEYARD 10277 E. Rock Creek Lane 520.824.2500 Wine Club Events Only LAWRENCE DUNHAM VINEYARDS 13922 S. Kuykendall Cutoff Rd. 602.320.1485 LawrenceDunhamVineyards.com By Appointment Only GOLDEN RULE VINEYARDS 3649 N. Golden Rule Road 520.507.2400 GoldenRuleVineyards.com By Appointment Only FORT BOWIE VINEYARDS 156 N. Jefferson, Bowie AZ By appointment only 520.847.2593 FLYING LEAP VINEYARDS: BISBEE TASTING ROOM 67 Main St. Bisbee Wed, Thur & Sun, Noon to 6pm Friday & Saturday, Noon to 8pm 520.384.6030

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Sunny Sierra Vista

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INK Reviews by Erik Ryberg

ne Part baK er , one part inspirational speaker, and one part bread evangelist, Josey Baker wants you to bake great bread, and by God he’s going to show you how to do it if it kills him. Baker (yes, that’s his real name) starts off with the simplest and most straightforward of recipes; he’s careful not to scare anyone away with fancy talk about baker’s percentages, digital scales, or Josey Baker Bread a treatise on the botanical By Josey Baker history of wheat. Instead (Chronicle Books, 2014) we get a steady progression of lessons that lead us, one loaf at a time, from a simple pan loaf made with commercial yeast to a beautiful hearth loaf from sourdough starter lovingly created from scratch. It was a trial for me, sometimes, to endure Baker’s prose, which is amply supplied with pointless asides, cheery encouragement, and a tonal register most often associated with the “For Dummies” series of books. But I got over it. When baking his introductory, beginner’s recipe, I deliberately violated every contemporary baker’s first principle by using volume rather than weight measurements, just to see if his recipe really is as flexible as he promised. It seems it is. Baker insists that the fashionable, fussy insistence on perfect measurements is overrated and a barrier to baking good bread in your home, and his book subtly but persistently admonishes us to keep our focus on the good bread, not the perfect technique. After you reach “artisanal hearth sourdough” on Page 66, your seventh loaf of bread (at which point you will also have had a two-week delay while you await your starter to come alive), the book veers briefly into seed, cheese, and olive breads before heading into the world of kamut, spelt, and even (gasp!) a gluten-free “bread” that, dear reader, I did not attempt. Unusual grains seem to be a particular delight for Baker. I made his 100 percent rye loaf, which, thanks to the very low amount of gluten in rye flour, calls for unusual baking techniques I had never encountered. I’m glad I did—it’s richly flavorful and splendidly unlike any bread I have ever baked. He ends the book with sweets, desserts, and even a recipe for fermented oatmeal. If you don’t have any baking experience, or if you want a gentle introduction to baking with unusual heirloom grains, Baker’s book is a great choice.

162 September - October 2014

her e is

b aK er

one - thir D

e Va n G e L i s t , Tartine Bakery’s Chad Robertson is pure artist, and his high standards provide a stern counterpart to Baker’s enthusiasm. I learned to bake from Robertson’s first book, Tartine Bread, and although the process was sound and the results outstanding, at times it just felt like a Tartine Book No. 3 struggle. Instructions for By Chad Robertson the first loaf ran to 50 pag(Chronicle Books, 2013) es, and I was led astray by some frustratingly vague prose along with photographs without captions. His new book, Tartine Book No. 3, cuts the instructions for the basic loaf down to just eight pages of sparse text with excellent, informative photos, and I wonder if I might have been better served by this abridged version. From there, however, the book heads straight into the stratosphere of cutting-edge bread baking, with flours I’ve heard of but not baked with before, like buckwheat, kamut, spelt, and quinoa, to flours I haven’t heard of or been able to find locally, like einkorn and amazake rice. His recipes call for the home baker to hand sift many of these flours in order to remove bran and create “high extraction” flour—a process that he admits yields “variable” results—and many involve sprouting your own heirloom grains. One quickly gets the sense that this is a kind of baking that is hard to do if you don’t buy your grain by the pallet, know local farmers by name, and own a wildly popular bakery in San Francisco. In the end, the book served me better as a beautiful catalog of the celestial offerings at Tartine Bakery than as a baking manual. After the efforts I expended in getting his basic country loaf down, I’m hesitant to commit the time to master this world beyond, one that involves grains found only in a particular corner of Denmark. I also spotted several errors of the kind that frustrated me so many times in his first book—like text that exhorts you to bench rest the loaf seam-side down, under a photo and caption with the opposite instruction. I have, on more times than I care to admit, checked the price of airline tickets to San Francisco so I might get a croissant and a loaf of bread at Tartine Bakery. At Tartine Bakery, you can find a kind of Platonic ideal of bread and pastry, one that seems to be barely even possible—one that’s certainly not possible in my own humble kitchen down here on earth. We are very lucky to have Chad Robertson in this world, but his baking is from another one.

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Miss Saigon

r it ten by the ow ner of K en ’ s B ak ery in Portland, Oregon, Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast charts a middle ground between Baker’s enthusiastic “It’s all good” style and the purist, rarefied approach of Robertson. I’ve eaten at Ken’s Bakery, and I believe the croissant I had there was the finest croissant I have ever had the God-given good fortune to eat. I’ve also had his outstanding bread and pizza, so I was excited to get his book. Like Baker, he leads the reader through the baking process one loaf at a time, starting simply and adding new techniques one at a time. He does not share Baker’s disdain for digital scales—in fact he instructs his readers to order one immediately—and he strikes a much more serious tone than Baker does. And like Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast Robertson he spends By Ken Forkish many pages on tech(Ten Speed Press, 2012) nique; the first recipe doesn’t arrive until Page 81. It is a loaf that can be made in a day with commercial yeast, and features the hard crust and beautiful crumb that is achievable with the old technique of very wet dough and the surprisingly recent discovery of baking the loaf not on a baking stone or in a loaf pan but in a Dutch oven, which seals in moisture and creates a hard crust. I made this loaf and it turned out beautifully, but let the reader be warned: As soon as I sank my teeth into it, I realized—my beautiful loaf was bland! Because it was made with commercial yeast and had a quick rise, it did not have nearly the complexity of flavor of a traditional sourdough levain. I fear that if after 80 pages of study and toil I had made this bland loaf of bread, I would have given up on baking. To his credit, Forkish warns of this, and repeatedly reminds his readers that this first loaf is only a beginning of what is possible. And he’s right. He soon leads the reader through an overnight rise with commercial yeast, which yields a much more flavorful loaf, and from there to more and more complex baking traditions and processes. The book also includes excellent instructions for pizza dough, as well as tips for baking it in the kind of ovens most of us have at home; it also explores mixed commercial and sourdough techniques for breads that capture the better features of each. While beginners would do well to stick with Forkish or Baker, for a bread baker looking to update his or her technique, any one of these books will show you the way. There are fundamental differences between bread-baking books published just 10 years ago and those published today—home baking has changed and the bread is better for it. ✜

Erik Ryberg is an attorney, gardener, and bread enthusiast who lives in Tucson. 164 September - October 2014

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This SOURCE GUIDE is an annotated directory of our advertisers. Many of our advertisers are also distribution outlets where you can find a complimentary copy of the magazine. Our incredible advertisers are the reason we can provide this publication at no cost. Please make it a point to patronize them often and let them know how much you appreciate their support of Edible Baja Arizona and the local food and drink economy. Baja Arizona towns and cities are noted if the business is not located in Tucson.

Dining & Drink Guide Restaurants, Cafes & Bars in Baja Arizona CENTRAL BEYOND BREAD Locally-owned and operated since 1998, we offer a variety of hand-crafted breads, delicious sandwiches, house-made soups, fresh salads and decadent pastries all in a comfortable and friendly environment. We make just about everything from scratch, using only the finest ingredients. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. 3026 North Campbell Avenue 520.322.9965 BeyondBread.com GOODNESS Our goal is to create innovative and healthy food that tastes great. From fresh pressed juices to salads and wraps, something for everyone. 2502 North Campbell Avenue 520.777.4465 KINGFISHER An American bar and grill specializing in regional cuisine from across the U.S. serving several varieties of fin fish, shellfish, and oysters. Great intimate bar with happy hours and late night menus every day. 2564 East Grant Road 520.323.7739 KingfisherTucson.com PREP & PASTRY We are a modern American eatery. Serving breakfast, lunch, and brunch. All food and drinks are prepared with fresh ingredients, locally sourced. 3073 North Campbell Avenue 520.326.7737 PrepAndPastry.com DOWNTOWN, UNIVERSITY & THE SUNSHINE MILE 1702 A pizzeria, and craft beer extravaganza. On tap, 46 craft beers from all over the 50 states and world complements our fresh, hand-tossed pizza made with the best ingredients. 1702 E. Speedway Boulevard 520.325.1702 1702AZ.com 4TH AVENUE DELICATESSEN Proudly serving Boar’s Head meats and cheeses, as well as Vero’s Bakery bread (locally owned). Come for the sandwich, stay for the pickle! 425 North 4th Avenue 520.624.3354 4thAveDeli.com BOCA TACOS Tacos with attitude! Happy hour daily 3pm to 6pm. Come explore with us on Exotic Taco Wednesday. Catering servies available. 828 East Speedway Boulevard 520.777.8134 CAFE A LA C’ART Enjoy your breakfast, lunch or dinner in a casual atmosphere and surrounded by fine art. And try our famous desserts (with gluten free choices!). Join us at the historic Stevens House at the Museum of Art, or al fresco on the brick patio. Catering is also available. 150 North Main Avenue 520.628.8533 CafeALaCartTucson.com CAFE PASSÉ Dedicated to serving great coffee and coffee drinks, locally-sourced organic food whenever possible, craft cocktails and an eclectic beer menu. It is also home to Tucson’s best patio and biergarten with a patio bar. Live music and local art. 415 North 4th Avenue 520.624.4411 CafePasse.com

THE CORONET Brasserie-style restaurant, old world rustic cuisine, cute bar, quiet music, big patio with good shade, outstanding coffee. 402 East 9th Street 520.222.9889 CUP CAFE The signature Hotel Congress restaurant attracts every walk of life for its eclectic American fare served seven days a week in downtown Tucson. The Cup is an award-winning destination for locals and visitors alike, complete with a full bar, dining room and plaza seating. 311 East Congress Street 520.798.1618 DELECTABLES International selections in a casual atmosphere. Breakfast, lunch dinner & late night menus. Dog-friendly patio dining. Live music every Friday & Saturday. Full bar, excellent wine list and homemade desserts. Vegan & gluten-free menus. Catering. 533 North 4th Avenue 520.884.9289 DOWNTOWN KITCHEN & COCKTAILS Innovative farmto-table cooking with global influences & killer cocktails from James Beard Award winner Janos Wilder in an art-filled, urban setting with roomy outdoor patio. Dinner, happy hour, bar menu seven nights a week and late night Friday & Saturday. 135 S. 6th Avenue 520.623.7700 DowntownKitchen.com EXO ROAST COMPANY Exo seeks out the world’s fi nest coffees, craft roasts them in small batches, and distributes them in limited quantities to ensure unequaled quality. Roastery and café open MondaySaturday, 7am to 7pm, Sunday 7-3. Come by for free twice-weekly tastings. Custom wholesaling. 403 North Sixth Ave. 520.777.4709 ExoCoffee.com FALORA In the historic Joesler-built Broadway Village, Falora builds pizzas & salads anchored in tradition with a sharply creative angle. Ingredients are simple, fresh; imported from Italy or sourced from local farms. Lunch & dinner. Charming patio or cozy interior. 3000 East Broadway Boulevard 520.325.9988 Falora.com FOOD FOR ASCENSION CAFÉ A new paradigm of sustaining community by providing pure food through fair systems that interact together and support a vibrant life, community and self with the ultimate intention of reconnecting our body, mind, and soul. 330 East 7th Street 520.882.4736 FoodForAscension.org HUB RESTAURANT & CREAMERY Enjoy American comfort food, downtown made ice cream and over 20 craft beers on draft. Located on historic Congress Street in downtown Tucson, HUB is right in the middle of the heart of Tucson’s fastest-growing and most exciting area. Plenty of downtown parking and the SunLink streetcar route right outside our doors, a night on the town or dinner with the family is not only fun, but easy. 266 East Congress Street 520.207.8201 HubDowntown.com LA COCINA RESTAURANT, CANTINA & COFFEE BAR We care deeply for our community and strive to provide a gathering place for all. Tucson musicians take the stage most days of the week. Our cantina pours local beer and we support our local farmers and ranchers. 201 North Court Avenue 520.365.3053 LaCocinaTucson.com

LINDY’S ON 4TH AVENUE If punk rock, heavy metal,Sinatra,tatoos,hotrods,choppers,low riders,a lazy sunday afternoon, hot ladies, and the mans man were all put into a burger that was so good you’d slap your mama, thats what were servin up in this piece. 431 North 4th Avenue 520.207.6970 LO4th.com MARTIN’S COMIDA CHINGONA Nestled right on 4th Avenue, Martin’s is fun, casual and independent. Martin’s serves traditional Mexican food with awesome interpretations by chef/owner Martin Fontes. 557 North 4th Avenue 520.884.7909 MAYNARDS MARKET & KITCHEN We established the first downtown market and paired it with a charismatic restaurant & bar. Both are fueled by a passion for celebrating the best of place, product and service. 400 North Toole Avenue 520.545.0577 MaynardsMarket.com MISS SAIGON DOWNTOWN Each dish is recreated with the same recipes Grandma passed down. This is authentic Vietnamese home style cooking with a warm and inviting ambience. 47 North 6th Avenue 520.884.4778 MissSaigon-Tucson.com PASCO KITCHEN & LOUNGE Urban farm fare is how we describe traditional comfort food & drink, approached with an eye toward modern techniques and an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. Our menus is fused with the soul & passion that chef/owner Ramiro Scavo brings into the kitchen and lounge. Enjoy chef’s unique creations in our comfy neighborhood setting. 820 East University Boulevard 520.882.8013 PascoKitchen.com PENCA Mexico City cuisine and international bar located in the heart of downtown Tucson. December 2013, Food & Wine magazine named Penca “one of America’s best bars.” 50 East Broadway Boulevard 520.203.7681 PencaRestaurante.com PROPER A casual, urban dining establishment serving contemporary, farm to table cuisine. Brunch daily from 9am-3pm. Dinner nightly from 5pm-10pm. Happy hour Monday through Friday 3-6pm. Late night seven days a week, 10pm-midnight. 300 East Congress Street 520.396.3357 ProperTucson.com R BAR Join us for a drink at R Bar, the Rialto’s 7-nighta-week bar. Great drinks, great times, no unicorns. Because they don’t exist. 350 East Congress Street, Suite 110 520.305.3599 RBarTucson.com ROCCO’S LITTLE CHICAGO PIZZERIA Real Chicago Pizza, right around the corner! Since 1998 Rocco DiGrazia has been serving perennially award-winning pizzas, buffalo wings, and chocolate chip cookies on Broadway’s Sunshine Mile. Check out our gigantic beer selection too. You’ll agree it’s a HELLUVA pie! 2707 East Broadway Boulevard 520.321.1860 RoccosLittleChicago.com SIDECAR A neighborhood bar serving cocktails, craft beer, and wine.139 South Eastbourne 520.795.1819 BarSidecar.com

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SPARKROOT A cornerstone of a burgeoning downtown, Sparkroot serves up Blue Bottle Coffee & vegetarian fare with flare, in a striking atmosphere. Vibrant community flavor, morning through evening. Great meeting spot; you can even reserve our loft! Beer, wine & killer Irish coffee. 245 E. Congress at Fifth Avenue 520.623.4477 Sparkroot.com SURLY WENCH Established 2004. Late night kitchen featuring fresh, never frozen beef and homegrown herbs. Delicious burgers, tacos and more. Full bar. Black Cherry Burlesque, live music, DJs, billiards, air hockey, arcade, foosball, darts. Daily happy hour & nightly drink specials. 424 North 4th Avenue 520.882.0009 SurlyWench.com TASTEFUL KITCHEN Modern vegetarian cuisine creatively prepared, farm to table fresh. We showcase regional heritage foods infused with Southwestern sauces and flavorings. Everything from scratch using whole foods, local organic when available, and few processed ingredients. Dine in, take out, weekly meals to go, boutique catering, cooking classes, and a private function room. Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday 5pm-9pm. Free parking. Reservations recommended. 722 North Stone Avenue 520.250.9600 TheTastefulKitchen.com TIME MARKET A neighborhood market that includes a deli, pizza oven, cafe and bar. See our listing under markets too. 444 East University Boulevard 520.622.0761 TUCSON TAMALE COMPANY More than 30 different kinds of incredible tamales. Mild to spicy, meaty to vegan, savory to sweet, we have just about every kind of tamale you can think of and then some! 2545 East Broadway Boulevard 520.305.4760 TucsonTamale.com UNPLUGGED We’ve sourced the wine world to find a unique blend of varietals at prices that are right for all occasions. Come downtown for this exceptional experience. We also regularly feature live jazz. 118 East Congress St 520.884.1800 UnpluggedTucson.com WILKO A modern gastropub featuring inventive classic American comfort food in the Main Gate district at Park & University. Everything is prepared on site. We use local, organic ingredients whenever possible. More than 30 wines by the glass, 11 quality brews on tap and a craft cocktail bar. Check out our artisan cheeses and salume. 943 East University Boulevard 520.792.6684 BarWilko.com EAST BEYOND BREAD Locally-owned and operated since 1998, offering hand-crafted breads, delicious sandwiches, house-made soups, fresh salads and decadent pastries in a comfortable and friendly environment. We make just about everything from scratch, using only the finest ingredients. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. 6260 E. Speedway Boulevard 520.747.7477 BeyondBread.com LE BUZZ CAFFE A one-of-a-kind hangout popular with cyclists, climbers and locals with great in-house roasted coffee, full espresso bar, sublime baked goods, hearty breakfast, soups, salads, panini and quiches. The Le Buzz “house cookie” is worth the trip alone. 9121 East Tanque Verde Road 520.749.3903 LeBuzzCaffe.com PITA JUNGLE “The Art of Eating Healthy”. Mediterranean inspired dishes made from scratch daily with the freshest ingredients. The menu is based on offering a healthy and natural cuisine abounding with vegetarian and vegan options. Catering available. 5340 East Broadway Boulevard 520.207.6873 PitaJungle.com RENEE’S ORCANIC OVEN Serving creative and traditional pizzas and so much more. We offer a casual space for you to enjoy a menu filled with local and organic ingredients. Everything we do is made possible by our connection to great people and we would love to add you to our mix. Happy hour, dinein, take-out. Reservations encouraged, but walk-ins welcome. 7065 East Tanque Verde Road 520.886.0484 ReneesOrganicOven.com TUCSON TAMALE COMPANY More than 30 different kinds of incredible tamales. Mild to spicy, meaty to vegan, savory to sweet, we have just about every kind of tamale you can think of and then some! 7153 East Tanque Verde Road 520.238.8404 TucsonTamale.com

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ZONA 78 Tucson’s premiere destination for artisan pizza, Italian specialties, and an eclectic selection of wine, beer & spirits. Zona 78 sources many ingredients locally and has an in-house charcuterie. 7301 East Tanque Verde Road 520.296.7878 Zona78.com NORTH, CATALINA FOOTHILLS

EL DORADO RESTAURANT Authentic Mexican cuisine in South Tucson. Where the locals go to eat. 1949 South 4th Avenue 520.622.9171 LOS PORTALES Our mission is to manage the satisfaction of our clients in a family environment where the art and the music merge to the flavor of the Mexican food. 2615 South 6th Avenue 520.889.1170 LosPortalesDeTucson.com

ACACIA Located in the Catalina foothills, Acacia offers an exquisite panoramic view of Tucson and features award-winning cuisine by chef Albert Hall. Fresh natural and local ingredients lovingly prepared in the friendliest and most comfortable setting in Tucson. Join us for lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch and happy hour daily. 3001 East Skyline Drive 520.232.0101 AcaciaTucson.com ARMITAGE WINE BAR & LOUNGE The setting changes character as the night lengthens, with its Old World ambiance and intimate conversation areas providing a relazing setting for lunch, dinner, weekend brunch or winding own after the workday. As the evening progresses, the lights dim and the music picks up tempo, transforming into an energized nightspot. 2905 East Skyline Drive 520.682.9740 ArmitageWine.com TAVOLINO RISTORANTE ITALIONO Specializing in simple, elegant food, Tavolino’s Northern Italian cuisine features fresh salas, homemade pastas, wood-fired pizzas, succulent rotisserie meats and luscious desserts. Lunch & dinner Monday through Saturday. Happy hour 3-6pm and 9-11pm. 2890 East Skyline Drive 520.531.1913 ZONA 78 Tucson’s premiere destination for artisan pizza, Italian specialties, and an eclectic selection of wine, beer & spirits. Zona 78 sources many ingredients locally and has an in-house charcuterie. 78 West River Road 520.888.7878 Zona78.com NORTHWEST TUCSON, ORO VALLEY, MARANA BEYOND BREAD Locally-owned and operated since 1998, we offer a variety of hand-crafted breads, delicious sandwiches, house-made soups, fresh salads and decadent pastries all in a comfortable and friendly environment. We make just about everything from scratch, using only the finest ingredients. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. 421 West Ina Road 520.461.1111 BeyondBread.com GOURMET GIRLS FLUTEN FREE BAKERY/BISTRO Everything is gluten free, from the seasonally-inspired menu to the outstanding selection of handcrafted baked goods. Enjoy house specialties all prepared in a dedicated kitchen with no cross-contamination. Breakfast, lunch and dinner by reservation. 5845 North Oracle Road 520.408.9000 GourmetGirlsGlutenFree.com THE PARISH A southern-fusion gastropub. It draws its inspiration from Louisiana, Texas and Arizona comfort, cuisine, hospitality and community. 6453 North Oracle Road 520.797.1233 TheParishTucson.com PITA JUNGLE “The Art of Eating Healthy”. Mediterranean inspired dishes made from scratch daily with only the freshest ingredients. The menu is based on offering a healthy and natural cuisine abounding with vegetarian and vegan options. Catering available. 7090 North Oracle Road 520.797.7482 PitaJungle.com SOUTH AND BARRIO VIEJO 5 POINTS MARKET & RESTAURANT Bridging South Tucson and downtown, we serve breakfast and lunch. We are also a crocery store and deli. 756 South Stone Avenue 520.623.3888 5PointsTucson.com CAFE DESTA Offering authentic Ethiopian cuisine, great food and great coffee in a relaxing environment. 758 South Stone Avenue 520.370.7000 CUSHING STREET BAR & RESTAURANT Uptown comfort food, garden patios, full bar and live jazz have made this 1860s historic landmark a local favorite for 40 years. Book an intimate party in a private dining room or a wedding for 100 guests. Famly-owned since 1972. 198 West Cusing Street 520.622.7984 CushingStreet.com

SONORAN SNO-CONES Highlights the traditional recipes for sweets made of fresh fruit and natural ingredients, instead of artificial sweeteners. 135 West Ajo Way, Suite A 520.889.0844 SonoranSnoCones.com WEST AGUSTIN KITCHEN Three-time Iron Chef winner Ryan Clark’s Agustin Kitchen is a twist on new American and classic French cuisine with an emphasis on local ingredients. 100 South Avenida del Convento 520.398.5382 AgustinKitchen.com COYOTE PAUSE CAFE Comfort food with a Southwestern twist! Local desert foods. Cheerful unique atmosphere. Breakfast & lunch daily 7:30am-2:30pm. Serving omelets, salads, sandwiches, vegetarian choices, beer, and wine. Located in west Tucson at Cat Mountain Station with shopping, buy-sell-trade fashion, art, antiques. 2740 South Kinney Road 520.883.7297 CoyotePauseCafe.com MOTHER HUBBARD’S CAFE Serving contemporary Native American comfort food. Breakfast & lunch only. At the Northwest corner of Grand & Stone--just minutes from downtown Tucson. Come taste the love! 7am-2pm, daily. 14 West Grant Road 520.623.7976 SONORAN SNO-CONES Highlights the traditional recipes for sweets made of fresh fruit and natural ingredients, instead of artificial sweeteners. 120 South Avenida del Convento Suite 120 520.344.8470 SonoranSnoCones.com BISBEE BISBEE BREAKFAST CLUB The best choice for breakfast in Bisbee, Arizona. Lunch also available. Open 7am3:05pm every day. 75A Erie Street, Bisbee 520.432.5885 BisbeeBreakfastClub.com CAFÉ CORNUCOPIA Made-from-scratch soups, sandwiches, quiche, and desserts, in the heart of historic Old Bisbee. Open Monday through Tuesday 11am-4pm, Friday through Sunday 11am-4pm. 14 Main Street CAFÉ ROKA Celebrating 20+ years of serving the Bisbee community and Baja Arizona. We create a wonderful dining experience for our guests, providing delicious food, beverages and warm hospitality. Reservations recommended. 35 Main Street, Bisbee 520.433.5153 CafeRoka.com CONTESSA’S CANTINA Featuring traditional Mexican food for lunch and dinner. Full bar and live music. 202 Tombstone Canyon Road 520.432.6711 ContessasCantina.com HIGH DESERT MARKET Gourmet food and gift market and cafe. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with indoor and outdoor seating. We do all our baking on premises, serve generous gourmet salads and sandwiches, quiches, pizzas, desserts and more. 520.432.6775 203 Tombstone Canyon, Bisbee, AZ 85603 HighDesertMarket.com JIMMY’S HOT DOG COMPANY Jimmy and his wife Pammy use genuine “Vienna Brand” Beef, Hot Dogs, Sausages, even condiments and buns as well as authentic Gonnella Italian Bread, flown in fresh from the northwest side of Chicago for your dining enjoyment. 938 West Highway 92, Bisbee 520.432.5911 SCREAMING BANSHEE PIZZA & WINE BAR A unique, eclectic restaurant housed in a renovated gas station. We take pride in our hand-crafted wood-fired pizza, salads, small plates, calzones and sandwiches. Featuring a full bar, signature cocktails, local beers, and unique wines. 200 Tombstone Canyon Road, Bisbee 520.432.1300 ScreamingBansheePizza.net

WHYLD ASS COFFEE SHOP An organic, plant-based, culture experience. We feature “more than fair trade” coffee. Our restaurant offers healthy, tasty, vegan alternatives that are made with only the finest organic ingredients, mainly locally sourced. Live music and poetry on weekends. 54 Brewery Avenue, Bisbee 520.353.4004 SONOITA, ELGIN, PATAGONIA OVERLAND TROUT Farm to table restaurant in Sonoita by celebrated chef Greg LaPrad. Dedicated to supporting local and producing quality meals. Lunch, dinner, cocktails. 3266 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.9316 OverlandTrout.com TIA NITA’S CANTINA Enjoy your favorite drinks in postmodern bordertown surroundings in Sonoita. Full bar opens at 2pm daily, serving Barrio Brewery beers on tap. Italian kitchen opens for dinner nightly, serving fresh, homemade pizza, wings, sandwhiches and more. Closed Tuesdays. 3119 South Highway 83, Sonoita 520.455.0500 NOGALES LA ROCA Enjoy authentic Sonoran cuisine with the freshest ingredients from Mexico. Take in the rich ambiance of the historic Casa Margot. Visit our unique shops below the restaurant to find local art, handcrafted home goods and beautiful clothing. Calle Elias # 94, Nogales (on the Sonora side) LaRocaRestaurant.com

CHEF’S KITCHEN & CATERING A family affair, owned, operated by husband and wife, Chris and Mary Cryderman and son Ivor. Chris and Ivor have a combined 50+ years experience as chefs involving a wide spectrum of upscale cuisines. They use this knowledge and love of making fresh, healthy food from scratch to provide excellent, fl avorful mobile dining and catering like one could expect in a high quality restaurant. 520.903.7004 ChefsKitchenCatering@yahoo.com

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THUY’S NOODLE SHOP Authentic, from scratch Vietnamese food, specializing in pho, a noodle soup-beef or vegan. 9 South Naco Road, Bisbee 520.366.4479

FOODIE FLEET A high class, high quality, low price mobile eatery in the Tucson area. We feature pressed sandwiches and waffl es. We also offer tantalizing sides, and our special homemade sauce, that will keep you coming back for more! We make a concerted effort to source all of our products locally and organically. It is an experience that you’ve never had before. Catering Available. 520.329.3663 FoodieFleet.com JOZARELLI’S FOOD TRUCK Mobile Gourmet Food Truck serving authentic Italian street fare on the streets of Tucson - follow us on Twitter (@jozarellis) to see where we’ll be serving. PLANET OF THE CREPES Bringing southern Arizona a modern twist to the French classic, PotC’s award winning crepes range from savory duck breast with fi g jam to the decadent fresh strawberry and French custard. Daily specials and rotating locations make this food truck a destination. 520.271.6083 PlanetOfTheCrepes.com ST. ANDREW’S CATERING Led by Deacon Jefferson Baily, this is a food program to assist those in the community who fi nd themselves unavle to prepare food for themselves. 545 S. 5th Avenue 520.622.8318

TUBAC/ TUMACOCORI

TUCSON FOOD TRUCK RALLY Formed of Tucson’s finest gourmet food trucks with a common cause to raise money for rescue animals. For information on our locations go to our website and follow us on facebook. 520.982.2645 TucsonFoodTruckRally.com

ELVIRA’S Established in 1927 in Nogales, Mexico, Elvira’s is now in Tubac, bringing you the best Mexican cuisine and award-winning dishes! 2221 East Frontage Road A101, Tubac 520.398.9421 ElvirasRestaurant.com

TWISTED TANDOOR A full service food truck serving tasty authentic Indian food.We do private & corporate caterings along with weddings or any events that you may have. 520.551.0368 email us: TheTwistedTandoor@gmail.com

GREEN START JUICE BAR This juice bar at La Entrada de Tubac is locally owned and features organic juices made from the freshest ingredients. We offer super-food smoothies, juices and salads. Gluten free, dairy free, sugar free, vegan. Try our juice or raw food challenge! 2221 Frontage Road, Suite N-101, Tubac 520.841.0001 SHELBY’S BISTRO A southern Arizona restaurant, located in the artistic, historic town of Tubac. We offer Mediterranean style cuisine. Lunch or dinner, it is a highly enjoyable experience! 19 Tubac Road, Tubac 520.398.8075 ShelbysBistro.com WISDOM’S CAFE Your neighborhood restaurant for seven decades. Let our family serve your family mouthwatering Mexican food that is lovingly prepared and steeped in tradition. Owned and operated by four generations of the Wisdom family. 1931 East Frontage Road, Tumacocori 520.398.2397 WisdomsCafe.com WISDOM’S DOS! Street tacos, Sonoran dogs, sliders, nachos, burritos, hummus, soup, salads, cheese crisps and homemade ice cream await you when you want a quick, delicious lunch or want to stop in for drinks and appetizers before dinner. 4 Plaza Road, Suite 102, Tubac 520.216.7664 WisdomsCafe.com/Dos FOOD TRUCKS, CATERING & PERSONAL CHEFS BUDDHA’S BOWL PERSONAL CHEF SERVICE Offering customized ready to serve meals to compliment your healthy lifestyle. Specializing in Vegan, Paleo, Low Carb, Gluten Free and Omnivore diets, Affordable, convenient, and delicious. Free consultation. 520.668.9010 BudBwl.com CHEESY RIDER Serving both savory and sweet gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches. Available for catering and special events. HAVE CHEESE WILL TRAVEL 520.471.1859 CheesyRider.com

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Food & Drink for Home Grocery Resources in Baja Arizona

ARTISAN PURVEYORS & DEALERS ALEJANDROS TORTILLA FACTORY Corn and flour tortillas, bread & chips. Look out for our new natural tortillas as well as our chiltepin and other flavored tortillas. Find us at many markets and grocery stores throughout Baja Arizona. 5330 South 12th Avenue, South Tucson 520.889.2279 AlejandroTortilla.com ALFONSO OLIVE OIL A world of flavor, locally owned. We invite you to a unique tasting experience of the freshest, first cold pressed, extra virgin olive oils and flavored olive oils from around the world, and all natural traditional aged balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy! “Taste first…buy when the excitement becomes overwhelming.” Central location: 4320 N Campbell Avenue, Oro Valley location: 7854 N. Oracle Road 520.441.9081 AlfonsoOliveOil.com BISBEE OLIVE OIL Come visit us in Bisbee and experience everything the town has to offer. We are located in a 111-year-old renovated building and carry 180 different items for sale. With 45 different olive oils and balsamics there is a flavor for everyone. We also offer free tastings! 8 Brewery Avenue, Bisbee 520.432.4645 BLU—A WINE & CHEESE SHOP There’s a new cheesemonger in town! Tana Fryer of Blu has been crowned “cheesemonger in chief” by Tucson foodies. Also sold in Alfonso Olive Oil locations. 100 S. Avenida Del Convento 520.314.8262 BluArizona.com CHILTTEPICA SALSA Fresh, artisanal Chiltepin Salsa RED or VERDE, fresh and local ingredients, find it at Santa Cruz Farmers Market at Mercado San Agustin, Food Conspiracy Co-op on 4th Avenue. Inquiries at info@ chilttepica.com 520.977.3043 Chilttepica.com DURAZO’S POCO LOCO SPECIALTY SALSAS Fresh fruit salsas with peaches, pineapple and mangos at three different levels: Mild, Hot and Stupid Hot. Pico De Gallo, Salsa Ranchera (our more traditional), Guacamole, Ceviche with crab, shrimp and baby clams and Crab and Shrimp Dip. Seasonal items are watermelon, cucumber and jicama salad during the summer months only. Find at Heirloom Farmers’ Markets. 520.884.7178 FERMENTED TEA COMPANY Family run and operated microbrewery of Kombucha which takes love, effort, and a desire to make the best batch, fermented with tea, every time. 520.286.6887 FermentedTeaCompany.com GRAMMY’S JAMS Grammy offers artisan jams, jellies, chutneys, mustards, and pickles. Habanero Dills, Dilly Beans, Rolling Thunder and Habanero Jams are favorites. Backyards, our trees, local farms and orchards provide fruits for Grammy’s special products! Find Grammy’s at Heirloom Farmers’ Markets. 520.559.1698 Facebook.com/Grammys.AZ HAYDEN FLOUR MILLS A family business working to revive heritage and ancient grains in the desert. We have revived the tradition that started in Tempe, Arizona more than 125 years ago by Charles Hayden and his Hayden Flour Mills. While not milled at the iconic Hayden Flour Mills’ building, our fresh flour harkens back to a time when flour still was full of nutrients and flavor. 4404 N Central Ave., Phoenix. 480.557.0031 HaydenFlourMills.com QUEEN CREEK OLIVE OIL MILL Oils & olives. A familyowned local business that produces Arizona’s only extra virgin olive oil. Their olives are Arizona grown and pressed at their mill in Queen Creek, Arizona with four stores and tasting rooms in the state. At La Encantada 2905 East Skyline, Suite 167, 520.395.0563 QueenCreekOliveMill.com

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SANTA CRUZ CHILI & SPICE CO. Both manufacturer and retailer of fine chili products. At our Spice Center in Tumacacori we sell, along with Santa Cruz Products, a wide variety of gourmet southwestern foods, cookbooks and more. 1868 E Frontage Road, Tumacacori 520.398.2591 SantaCruzChili.com SKYE ISLAND OLIVE AND GRAPES We carry’s over 30 different flavors of olive oils and balsamics! Come in and sample in our tasting room! Browse our gift shop for locally made items! Open Wednesday through Sunday 10am to 5pm. 3244 Hwy 82 Sonoita 520.455.4627 SkyeIslandOliveAndGrapes.com TORTILLA AREVALO We offer tortillas, cookies and pancake mix, all made with the natural goodness of sweet-tasting Mesquite pod flour. Our products are traditionally made and delivered fresh to the Tucson area. Find us at Heirloom Farmers’ Markets. 520.822.0952 BAKERIES BARRIO BREAD Tucson’s first Community Supported Baker. Don Guerra’s artisan breads, prepared with wild yeast cultures, long fermentation and hearth baking create a truly inspired loaf. Crafting top quality bread and supporting local foods in Tucson since 2009. BarrioBread.com BAVIER’S BAKERY Tucson’s premier provider of locally sourced, artisan, organic wedding cakes. Our pastries, cakes, and breads are enjoyed by thousands of Tucsonans every year. Trust us to create the perfect, unique cake for your wedding. 520.220.0791 LA ESTRELLA BAKERY At the Mercado: A Tucson staple with yummy traditional Mexican pastries and pan dulce you won’t find anywhere else in town. Monday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-6 p.m., Sunday, 7 a.m.-2 p.m., 100 S. Avenida del Convento 520.393.3320 LaEstrellaBakeryIncAZ.com SMALL PLANET BAKERY We started baking bread in February of 1975. At that point, we were a collective of six, only one of whom had any baking experience. We now service many stores and do custom baking for eight restaurants and participate in many farmers’ markets. 411 N. 7th Avenue 520.884.9313 SmallPlanetBakery.com BEER, WINE, & DISTILLED LIBATIONS ARIDUS WINE COMPANY Family-owned Aridus Wine Company opened custom crush cellar doors in August 2012. Tasting Room open 11-5 daily. 145 N Railview Avenue, Willcox 520.766.9463 AridusWineCo.com ARIZONA HOPS & VINES We’re a small winery that’s awesome! One of many great Sonoita-area wineries in Southern Arizona, our family farm is a fun, warm place for families and wine aficionados alike. Come in and enjoy our patio, tell some stories, and explore the wonders of a winery that has free Cheetos. 888.569.1642 AZHopsAndVines.com BEAST BREWING COMPANY Arizona’s first and wildest craft beer. Our mission is to inspire a renewed passion for flavor, one pint at a time. 1326 W. Highway 92 #8, Bisbee 520.284.5251 BeastBrewingCompany.com BODEGA PIERCE Our wines are made exclusively from 17 varieties of mature vines encompassing Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Spanish and Italian grapes grown at the family’s estate vineyard south of Willcox, AZ. The wines are designed to express the high desert terroir of the Willcox Bench and have been found to be unsurpassed in producing spectacular world-class wines. 602.320.1722 BodegaPierce.com

CALLAGHAN VINEYARDS Located in the rolling, oakdotted hills of southeastern Arizona, at an elevation of 4800 feet, we produce rich, complex red and white wines from a 25 acre vineyard. Mediterranean and Spanish varietals—Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Petit Verdot, Petite Syrah and Grenache—are the basic building blocks for our red blends, while Viognier and Riesling are blended for our estate white wine. 520.455.5322 CallaghanVineyards.com CARLSON CREEK VINEYARDS A cozy, comfortable tasting experience, with plush seating and charming staff. Carlson Creek’s cottage tasting room allows you to relax and enjoy our wines in a stress free atmosphere. 115 Railview Avenue, Willcox 520.766.3000 CarlsonCreek.com CHARRON VINEYARDS & WINERY Less than 30 minutes from downtown Tucson is a small vineyard producing quality hand crafted Arizona wines. Visit one of the oldest wineries in Arizona where you can sample an array of award-winning wines in the glass enclosed tasting room or on the wine deck surrounded by mature vineyards and breathtaking mountain views. 520.762.8585 CharronVineyards.com DOS CABEZAS WINEWORKS Planted, harvested and fermented in Arizona! Come try a glass! Our winery tasting room is open Friday-Sunday 10:30-4:30. Tasting fee of $15 includes a souvenir glass. 3248 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.5141 DosCabezasWineWorks.com FLYING LEAP VINEYARD With developed acreage in both Sonoita AVA and Cochise County, Flying Leap offers a diverse portfolio of ultra-premium, carefully crafted wines. Visit the tasting rooms at estate vineyards in Willcox and Sonoita, and tasting rooms in Bisbee and Tucson. 520.954.2935 FlyingLeapVineyards.com HAMILTON DISTILLERS Whiskey del Bac is handmade by Hamilton Distillers in small batches using a copper pot-still and house-malted, mesquite-smoked barley. Three desert single-malt whiskeys made in Tucson. Contact: Stephen Paul: info@hamiltondistillers.com IRON JOHN’S BREWING COMPANY A rotating selection of small batch craft beers all bottled by hand. We produce all our beer at our brewery and have a small retail bottle shop on site. We invite you to stop by and purchase some of the beer you like. 245 S Plumer Avenue 205.737.4766 IronJohnsBrewing.com KIEF JOSHUA VINEYARDS A small family business with 20 acres in beautiful Elgin and 40 acres in Willcox Wine Country. Our Elgin tasting room is open daily and is situated right in the middle of what is know as “winery row.” The Sonoita Arizona Wine Tour boasts ten different tasting rooms and was selected by USA Today as one of the top ten wine trails in the United States. 520.455.5582 KiefJoshuaVineyards.com OLD BISBEE BREWING COMPANY Come and visit lively, historical Bisbee and taste the premium beer at Old Bisbee Brewing Company in the heart of Brewery Gulch! 200 Review Alley, Bisbee 520.432.2739 OldBisbeeBrewingCompany.com PILLSBURY WINE CO. Winemaker Sam Pillsbury is dedicated to crafting fine wines that celebrate Arizona’s high desert terroir. His sustainable Rhone vineyard in Willcox’s Kansas Settlement produces award-winning wines that are crisp, clean, and dry— created to complement the foods you love. 928.639.0646 PillsburyWine.com PLAZA LIQUORS A family-owned and independent store, Plaza has been around under the ownership of Mark Thomson for 35 years now. Plaza specializes in familyowned wineries, breweries and distilleries from around the world. The service and selection speaks for itself. 2642 N. Campbell Ave. 520.327.0542

TAP & BOTTLE A craft beer and wine tasting room in Downtown Tucson featuring hundreds of beverage options to enjoy on site or carry out. Look forward to beer flights, events and merchandise. 403 N. 6th Avenue 520.344.8999 TheTapAndBottle.com UNPLUGGED We’ve sourced the wine world to find a unique blend of varietals at prices that are right for all occasions. Come downtown for this exceptional experience. We also regularly feature live jazz. 118 E. Congress St 520.884.1800 UnpluggedTucson.com COFFEE & TEA CAFE JUSTO Our mission is to deliver the highest quality, organic, environmentally conscious, fresh roasted coffee to our customers at a price that is fair and just. 826 East 11th Street, Douglas 520.727.0014 JustCoffee.org EXO ROAST COMPANY Exo seeks out the world’s finest coffees, craft roasts them in small batches, and distributes them in limited quantities to ensure unequaled quality. Roastery and café open MondaySaturday, 7am to 7pm, Sunday 7-3. Come by for free twice-weekly tastings. Custom wholesaling for area cafes and restaurants. 403 N. Sixth Ave. 520.777.4709 ExoCoffee.com SAVAYA COFFEE Our goal is to offer superior quality coffees available around the corner from where you brew at home, so the fresh flavors of the Americas, Africa and Asia are right here for you to enjoy. Three locations in Baja Arizona: 5350 E. Broadway, 2905 E. Skyline and 12120 N. Dove Mountain Boulevard, Marana SavayaCoffee.com SEVEN CUPS An American tea company based in Tucson. We source traditional, handmade Chinese teas directly from the growers and tea masters who make them, and we bring those teas back from China to share with people everywhere. Seven Cups is the only American tea company with our own Chinese trading license, so we are in complete control of our supply chain from tea maker to consumer. 2516 E. Sixth Street 520.628.2952 SevenCups.com STELLA JAVA Enjoy delicious espresso drinks made from locally roasted coffee beans at this unique family-owned Tucson café. Mon-Sun 8am-2pm 100 S Avenida del Convento 520.777.1496 StellaJava.com FARMS, RANCHES, PRODUCE COMPANIES APPLE ANNIE’S U-PICK FARM A fruit and vegetable U-Pick farm for the whole family. Go to website for information on seasons for various crops. AppleAnnies.com AVALON ORGANIC GARDENS & ECOVILLAGE Avalon Gardens practices traditional permaculture principles and time-honored techniques of organic gardening, as well as new sustainable technologies; they also promote seed-saving and the cultivation of heritage varieties of produce provided to our local area through a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program. Tours available by appointment. 2074 Pendleton Dr., Tumacácori 520.603.9932, AvalonGardens.org BKW FARMS Owned by the Wong family, has long experience farming in southern Arizona, and recently decided to become part of the expanding market for organically grown heritage grains. The Wongs chose White Sonora Wheat, a grain brought to southern Arizona by missionaries in the 1600-1700’s, as the crop they wanted to begin with. BKWAZGrown.com

CHIRICAHUA PASTURE RAISED MEATS Home of “Josh’s Foraging Fowls” pasture raised poultry (chicken, eggs, and holiday turkeys). Also high quality grass-finished beef and lamb. All of our livestock are raised on our irrigated pastures near Willlcox, AZ. Visit us online or call to order. 520.507.3436 CPRMeats.com CHIVA RISA We make artisanal, all natural, Europeanstyle cheese on an off-grid, sustainable site situated in the upper San Pedro Valley near the Mexican Border. We treat our animals, land, and cheese with the utmost care and respect. Sharing nature’s bounty with our community through finely-crafted cheese is Chiva Risa’s primary goal. 520.901.0429 ChivaRisa.com DOUBLE CHECK RANCH We are a family business that raises, processes (on-farm), and directly sells hearty, wholesome pasture-raised meats in ways that would be familiar to our grandfathers. For eighteen years we have been reinventing local, small-scale agriculture in a way that respects land, animals, and people. Find at various farmers’ markets. 520.357.6515 DoubleCheckRanch.com FIORE DI CAPRA Raw Goat Milk, Yogurt, Kefir, Artisanal Farmstead Goat Cheese and Confections. Healthy, happy goats fed grass, alfalfa and local browse. Awardwinning products can be sampled and purchased at the Heirloom Farmers’ Market, Sundays. 520.586.2081 GoatMilkAndCheese.com HARRIS HERITAGE GROWERS Pick it your self veggies right out of the field. Also a small shop filled with paintings, handcrafted wood items, crafts, handmade jewelry and much more. 27811 South Sonoita Highway (Highway 83), Sonoita 520.455.9272 HIGH ENERGY AGRICULTURE Based out of Marana, AZ. Family owned and operated, High Energy bring the freshest possible produce for maximum nutrient value picked each morning of the market. Find on Facebook LARRY’S VEGETABLES We grow according to the seasons and the garden dictates when each crop is ready to go to market. All produce is picked within 24-48 hours prior to market. Larry and Eunice are “getting fresh with your veggies.” 520.250.2655 LarrysVeggies.net PATAGONIA ORCHARDS An organic grower, packer and shipper based in Rio Rico, Arizona. We ship premium organic fruits grown in Arizona and Mexico to wholesalers and retailers throughout the U.S. and Canada. We partner with more than 15 organic growers. 520.761.8970 PatagoniaOrchardsLLC.com REZONATION FARMS A family-scale farm serving two restaurants, the Food Conspiracy Coop, farmer’s markets, and others. We produce eggs, honey, and vegetables and hold natural beekeeping workshops twice a year. 4526 North Anway Rd, Marana ReZoNationFarm.com SAN XAVIER CO-OP FARM The San Xavier Cooperative Association envisions a farm committed to sustainable farming practices that support economic development in the community. Visit our farm store. 8100 South Oidak Wog 520.449.3154 SanXavierCoOp.org SKY ISLAND BRAND From conception to consumption, you’ve got a friend on the land, SKY ISLAND BRAND!Find us at the Sierra Vista Farmers Market (Thurs), Bisbee Farmers Market (Sat), Sierra Vista Food Co-op and in Tucson at Food Conspiracy Co-op. 520.642.9368. SLEEPING FROG FARMS Sleeping Frog Farms is an intensive 75-acre farm nestled in the Cascabel corridor of the San Pedro River Valley in Southern Arizona. Our mission is to improve the health of our land and community by growing high quality fruits and vegetables without the use of chemicals. 520.212.3764 SleepingFrogFarm.com SUNIZONA We are a family-owned, certified organic farm in Willcox, Arizona growing fruits and vegetables with sustainable, veganic practices and greenhouse technology. CSAs available all over Baja Arizona. 5655 East Gaskill Road Willcox 520.824.3160 SunizonaFamilyFarms.com VAN HAREN MEAT COMPANY Local lamb & goat meat raised locally in San Manuel. Find at the Heirloom Farmers’ Market on Sunday at Rillito Park. 520.909.0744 email: TSVanHaren@msn.com

WALKING J FARM A polyculture farm specializing in grass fed, pasture-raised beef, poultry and pork, and organically grown vegetables. At Santa Cruz River Farmers’ Market on Thurs, Nogales Farmers’ Market on Fridays, and Heirloom Farmers’ Market on Sun (St. Philip’s Plaza). 520.398.9050 WalkingJFarm.com GROCERS, FARMERS’ MARKETS & CSAS APPLE ANNIE’S COUNTRY STORE Open year-round offering our famous pies, apple bread, fudge, jarred good, gifts and other Apple Annie’s goodies that you love! Visit our U-Pick farm in season. 1510 N Circle I Rd, Willcox 520.766.2084 AppleAnnies.com BISBEE FARMERS’ MARKET Vibrant village market appears magically at Vista Park in the Warren district in Bisbee every Saturday morning. We feature local musicians while you enjoy shopping for healthy local foods and artisan crafts. Choices for Sustainable Living booth features workshops for healthy lifestyle changes. 9am-1pm, Saturdays, BisbeeFarmersMarket.org BISBEE FOOD COOP Community owned.Natural & Organic.Open for everyone.Serving Bisbee and Cochise County for over 35 years. 72 Erie Street, Bisbee 520.432.4011 BisbeeCOOP.com HEIRLOOM FARMERS’ MARKETS Four local farmers markets that support our region’s farms by: connecting consumers directly to local food producers, strengthening urban-rural agriculture and small food businesses. Heirloom Farmers’ Markets dedicated to the benefits of local food. 520.882.2157 HeirloomFM.com HIGH DESERT MARKET Gourmet food and gift market and cafe. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with indoor and outdoor seating. We do all our baking on premises, serve generous gourmet salads and sandwiches, quiches, pizzas, desserts and more. 520.432.6775 203 Tombstone Canyon, Bisbee, AZ 85603 HighDesertMarket.com NATIVE SEEDS/SEARCH RETAIL SHOP In addition to the seed shop find a mouthwatering variety of Southwestern foods, including native chile powders, savory mole sauces, locally grown beans, and much more. 3061 North Campbell Avenue 520.622.5561 NOGALES MERCADO Enjoy the border experience at our all-local farmers’ market in the heart of downtown Nogales with Santa Cruz County produce, meat, baked goods, jams/jellies and much more every Friday afternoon. The Nogales Mercado is part of Cosechando Bienestar, an initiative in Nogales to renew food traditions so that locally-grown food is enjoyed by all for better health. 520.375.6050 Facebook.com/NogalesMercado RINCON VALLEY FARMERS & ARTISANS MARKET Enjoy the beautiful scenery and discover a one-of-akind shopping experience featuring fruit, produce, eggs and meat from local Arizona farmers, local raw honey, artisan breads, beautiful artwork, crafts, furniture, aprons and more handcrafted by our Artisans. We are open EVERY Saturday year round from 8am to 1pm. 520.591.2276 RVFM.org RIVER ROAD GARDENS We are a small urban farm, using Biodynamic principles, located on the grounds of the Tucson Waldorf School. CSAs available. 3605 E. River Road 520.780.9125 RiverRoadGardens.com SANTA CRUZ RIVER FARMERS’ MARKET Fresh, sustainably grown foods from local farmers. Arizona fruits and vegetables, free-range meat, eggs, honey, baked goods, and natural plant products! Live music, cooking demonstrations, children’s activities and free workshops. A great place to get to know your community! West Congress Street, just west of I-10 at Mercado San Augustín 520.882.3313 CommunityFoodBank.org SHOPORGANIC.COM An online retailer of carefully selected Organic and Non-GMO products. Local Tucson customers can shop online and pick up at our facility. We offer shelf stable groceries, bulk foods, personal care, household items, gluten free, raw, and more. 520.792.0804 ShopOrganic.com

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SOURCE GUIDE

SAND-RECKONER VINEYARDS Located on the Willcox Bench at 4,300 feet in elevation, Rob and Sarah Hammelman tend to the vineyards. Our name, SandReckoner, means ‘sand-calculator,’ and references Archimedes’ revolutionary and thought provoking third century B.C. writing. In this text, Archimedes calculates the size of the universe by figuring the number of grains of sand that will fill it. The name alludes to our sandy loam soils, our connection to the cosmos, and the infinite calculations required to create a wine that expresses the very sand into which our vines’ roots grow deep. 303.931.8472 Sand-Reckoner.com

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SIERRA VISTA FOOD CO-OP Our store has a full natural & organic grocery selection as well as frozen, dairy, bulk foods, organic and local produce, specialty & organic cheeses, olives, cruelty-free cosmetics, premium supplements, and more! 96 South Carmichael, Sierra Vista 520.335.6676 SierraVistaMarket.com SIERRA VISTA FARMERS’ MARKET Open Thursdays at Veterans’ Memorial Park in Sierra Vista, AZ. Meet local growers, ranchers, beekeepers and bakers. Take home some of the bounty of southern Arizona! Grass-fed meats, desert heritage foods and plants. Contact sierravistafarmersmarket@cox.net SierraVistafarmersMarket.com

esoteric fine wine, wood-fired pizza, espresso, and artisan handcrafted organic natural yeast breads. We sell organic produce and use it for our restaurant in sandwiches, salads and pizzas. We are committed to honest communication about sourcing, and enjoy featuring local farms in our menu. 444 East University Boulevard 520.622.0761 TUCSON CSA Offering weekly boxes of local, organically-grown produce since 2004. We also offer pasture-raised eggs and chickens, grass-fed meats, cheese, and bread (from Barrio Bread). Pickups are Tuesdays or Wednesdays, 4:00-7:00 pm, The Historic Y, 300 East University Boulevard TucsonCSA.org

TIME MARKET A neighborhood market since 1919, we bring specialty goods to the table: craft beers,

Local Products & Services Non-Food in Baja Arizona AUTOMOTIVE BLUE + WHITE SPECIALISTS Indulge in the best for you and your baby - we offer Tucson’s most accommodating BMW and MINI service plus expert maintenance, precision repair and concierge amenities. Independent, locally-owned and proud to exceed our customers’ expectations every time. 5728 E 22nd Street 520.300.4220 BlueandWhiteBMW.com DENTAL

BAMBOO RANCH

DR. KRIZMAN INTEGRATIVE DENTISTRY We are an integrative dental clinic that combines the best aspects of general and biological dentistry, and determines the healthiest restorative dental solution for each patient. 1601 North Tucson Boulevard #27 520.326.0082 KrizmanDental.com DESIGNERS & BUILDING SUPPLIES ARIZONA DESIGNS KITCHENS & BATHS, LLC

Desert Grown Bamboo Plants for Shade & Screen Non-Invasive Clumping & Cold Hardy Types Expert Advice

Your home should be an extension of things in life you enjoy and value. Our designers have more than 100 years total experience designing kitchens and baths in homes throughout Southern Arizona. Come see us! 2425 E. Fort Lowell Rd. 520.325.6050 ArizonaDesigns.ne CARLY QUINN DESIGNS Custom and one-of-a-kind hand glazed tile murals, trivets, coasters, house numbers and more. We hand glaze all of our tiles right in our showroom in downtown Tucson. Great for indoor and outdoor use. Located in The Old Market Inn Tile Shop. 403 N. 6th ave. #119, 520.624.4117 CarlyQuinnDesigns.com ORIGINATE NATURAL BUILDING MATERIALS SHOWROOM Specializing in environmentally-friendly building materials made from natural, renewable & recycled resources. We offer innovative and unique materials that rival the aesthetics and performance of more traditional interior finishes. Flooring, countertops, cabinetry, paints, plasters, alternative plywoods, fireplaces, and architectural salvage. 526 N. Ninth Avenue 520.792.4207 OriginateNBM.com

BambooRanch@juno.com|520-743-9879 BambooRanch.net 172 September - October 2014

RED BARK DESIGN, LLC Landscape Design + Consultation. RedBark Design offers regionally and ecologically appropriate landscape design services for residential, commercial and consulting projects. P.O. Box 44128 Tucson, Arizona 85733, 520.247.2456 RedBarkDesign.com

WALLS 2.0 Real walls that hold water! Water Harvesting, Thermal mass, passive heating and cooling etc. Look out for our kickstarter in October 2014. 520.940.3177 RethinkTheWall.com HOUSEWARE & HARDWARE ACE HARDWARE Locally-owned and managed, we are an affiliate of the Ace Hardware co-operative. Five locations across Tucson, from Downtown on the West to the far Southeast side. We look forward to helping with your next project, no matter how small or large. Our locations listed at 135Hardware.com BUFFALO GALS Three-quarters hardware store, onequarter gift shop. 3149 HWY 83, Sonoita 520. 455.5523 BuffaloGalsOfSonoita.com HF COORS Lead free, microwave, oven, broiler, freezer and dishwasher safe. All our scrap and waste is inert or recycled. Our 200 foot long primary kiln is one of the most energy efficient in the world. 1600 S Cherrybell Stravenue 520.903.1010 HFCoors.com TABLE TALK Tucson’s Premier Home Specialty Store! Our goal has always been to help you and all of our shoppers make your home as comfortable, functional and fun as possible. Furniture, cookware, decorative home accessories 7876 N. Oracle Rd., Oro Valley 877.828.8255 TableTalk.com TUMACOOKERY 45 minutes south of Tucson, in Tubac, this well-stocked kitchen shop is a foodie destination for gadgets, appliances, cutlery, gourmet food and more. Great local products, and knowledgeable, friendly staff, make Tumacookery a regional favorite. Worth the drive to Tubac all by itself! 2221 S. Frontage Road, Tubac, 520.398.9497 Tumacookery.com HERBAL MEDICINE DESERT TORTOISE BOTANICALS We provide handcrafted herbal products from herbs wildharvested and organically grown within the Sonoran desert bioregion. Owner John Slattery conducts the Sonoran Herbalist Apprenticeship Program, wild foods class, private plant walks, and individual wellness consultation services. 4802 E Montecito Street DeserTortoiseBotanicals.com TUCSON HERB STORE Located in the Heart of Downtown since 2003. Dedicated to serving a variety of ethically wild-crafted and botanical products of the southwest desert. We carry: bulk herbs, teas, herbal tinctures, beauty care products, soaps, books, incense, and much more! 408 N. 4th Ave., 520.903-0038 TucsonHerbstore.com

INNS AND B&BS BLUE AGAVE BED & BREAKFAST Dramatically situated on one of Tucson Mountainʼs lush cactus covered hilltops the Blue Agave Bed and Breakfast is perfect for those seeking an elegant yet relaxed Arizona desert experience. With four lovely casitas, The Blue Agave is a great B&B! 455 North Camino de Oeste 520.250.2202 BlueAgave.com CAT MOUNTAIN LODGE CAT MOUNTAIN LODGE a bed & breakfast in the desert! Featuring eco-friendly accommodations in a vintage ranch setting with five unique spacious rooms. Providing Southwestern comfort—mixed with modern conveniences. Enjoy free full breakfast at Coyote Pause Cafe. Reserve on-site Star Tours at Spencer’s Observatory. 2720 South Kinney Road 520.578.6085 CatMountainLodge.com COPPER CITY INN A truly delightful inn in the heart of Old Bisbee, with beautiful rooms, excellent queen beds, abundant lighting, spacious bathrooms, balconies, free wi-fi, complimentary bottle of wine, organic coffee, parking, free off-site continental breakfast, DVDs, electronic locks. View website video: WYSIWYG. Bisbee is cool! 99 Main, Old Bisbee 520.432.1418 CopperCityInn.com ELDORADO SUITES HOTEL Offering an excellent downtown Bisbee location, expansive outdoor balconies, beautiful views, spacious suites, and many modern amenities. 55 OK St, Bisbee 520.432.6679 EldoradoSuitesBisbee.com JAILHOUSE INN Once the Bisbee Police Station, the historic Jailhouse Inn offers five clean, quiet rooms with full modern baths, Cable TV, wi-fi, refrigerator. Perfect downtown location, parking available. Walking distance to restaurants, bars, galleries, shops and Old Bisbee attractions. 8 Naco Road, Bisbee 520.432.8065 JailhouseInnAZ.com LA POSADA DEL RIO SONORA La Posada del Rio Sonora is a boutique hotel and restaurant on the Plaza Principal of Banámichi. Our 250 year old adobe has 10 rooms and suites and two apartments. This is the heart of “La Ruta Rio Sonora” with nearby hot springs. 70 Calle Pesqueira, Banámichi, Sonora, Mexico, MexicoEcoResort.com TUBAC POSTON HOUSE INN Located in the historic location of the Tubac village, the Poston House Inn has been occupied since the 1850s. Our Bed & Breakfast Inn has 5 pools, beautiful rooms, a homemade breakfast. Premier lodging in Tubac. 20 Calle Iglesia, Tubac 520.398.3193 TubacPostonHouseInn.com LANDSCAPING & PERMACULTURE AHIMSA LANDSCAPING Ahimsa Landscaping is an ethically-focused, small design + build business specializing in creating sustainable landscapes through the integration of permaculture design principles and water harvesting techniques for the desert environment. Inquiries at info@ahimsalandscaping.com 520.345.1906 AhimsaLandscaping.com PRIMAVERA WATER HARVESTING + SUSTAINABLE LANDSCAPING Design and installation of earth works, cisterns, or greywater systems for food producing plants or gardens. Free estimates on all projects. 520.882.9668 Primavera.org/WaterHarvesting WATERSHED MANAGEMENT GROUP Helping you with water harvesting, soil building, edible and native gardens, and watershed restoration. We’re a Tucsonbased non-profit serving the community by sharing our technical expertise and offering hands-on workshops, training programs, custom property consultations, site plans, and project implementation. 520.396.3266 WatershedMG.org

LAWYERS LAW OFFICES OF NICOLE J. FRAMCO, PLC Do you need a social security disability attorney? If you suffer from a serious medical condition preventing you from working we can help. All consultations are free. 5111 North Scottsdale Road #160, Scottsdale 888.945.0144 NicoleFrancoDisability.com LITERATURE ANTIGONE BOOKS Zany, independent (and 100% solarpowered) bookstore. Books for all ages plus large selection of unusual gifts and cards. Regional books on cooking, gardening, sustainability, green living and more. Voted Tucson’s best independent bookstore. Located in Tucson’s unique Fourth Avenue shopping district. 411 N. 4th Avenue 520.792.3715 AntigoneBooks.com BOOK STOP A Tucson institution for decades (since 1967!), the Book Stop stocks thousands of quality used and out-of-print titles. Monday-Thursday: 10am-7pm, Friday-Saturday: 10am-10pm, Sunday: noon-5pm. 213 N. 4th Avenue, 520.326.6661 BookStopTucson.com MASSAGE, SPAS & SALONS COYOTE WORE SIDEBURNS A high quality progressive hair salon. Our stylists are well-trained and current. If you would like to speak to a stylist about your hair service prior to making a commitment, consultation appointments are available. New location: 2855 E. Grant Road 520.623.7341 DR. FEELGOOD’S SPA & SALON A full service salon in Bisbee offers women’s and men’s hair styling, nail service, facials, waxing and more. We also offer a variety of relaxing massages and the only private sauna and hot tub in Bisbee, Arizona. 8 Naco Road, Bisbee 520.432.8065 DrFeelgoodsAZ.com GLOW SKIN CARE & LASHES Melinda M. Spreng’s philosophy is ‘beauty from within.’ She uses all natural products and methods to make you look and feel your best! 3101 N Swan Rd. 520.261.4635 GlowSkinCare-N-Lashes.SkinCareTherapy.net ROOTED THERAPEUTIC MASSAGE & BODYWORK

surly wench pub full bar | Fresh kitchen burlesque | live music billiards | air hockey | arcade 520-882-0009 www.SurlyWenchPub.com 424 n. 4th avenue tucson, arizona

SILKSCREEN PRINTING STICKERS HATS SHIRTS PATCHES POSTERS «««««« 520.907.9309

TanlinePrinting.com

Grow With Us,

Naturally!

A small, locally owned clinic staffed by independent massage therapists located in the heart of Tucson, minutes from downtown and the University of Arizona. Rooted offers a wide range of modalities, including therapeutic, sports, Thai, prenatal massage, Chi Nei Tsang & Skincare.. 1600 North Tucson Boulevard Suite 120, 520.326.8300 RootedMassageTucson.com

Your Local Source From Seed to Table Since 1979.

SPA DAZE TUCSON Providing quality pain management, stress relief & athletic therapy. Therapeutic & Medical Massage, Shiatsu, Ashiatsu, Thai Massage, & More! 6812 North Oracle Road, Suite 100 520.334.1919 SpaDazeTucson.com

• Beneficial Insects & Organisms • Seed Care & Propagation • Fertilizers & Amendments • Easy-To-Use Tools • Weed, Disease & Critter Control

ORGANIZATIONS AMERIND MUSEUM A nonprofit museum and research center dedicated to Native American cultures and histories. Located in Arizona’s spectacular Texas Canyon. 2100 North Amerind Road, Dragoon 520.586.3666 Amerind.org ARIZONA CRAFT BREWERS Looking for Arizona Craft Beer? Craft Beer events? Breweries in Arizona? This is the place to find it. 602.341.5724 CraftBeerAZ.com BISBEE FILM FESTIVAL One People:One Planet is a project of the City of Bisbee Arts Commission in partnership with the UA Hanson Film Institute. BZBFilmFest.com BISBEE HUB Are you traveling to Bisbee soon? Find out what’s in store before you travel by visiting BisbeeHub. com and checking out the events calendar. We are also working on a business directory so come back again and again and see why Bisbee is so special! BisbeeHub.com

Visit Our Store Today! 10831 N. Mavinee Dr. Suite185 Oro Valley, AZ 85737

520-825-9785 • 1-800-827-2857 • www.arbico-organics.com

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YARD WOMAN An old-fashioned natural remedy shop specializing in herbs and herbalsin the Western Herbal Tradition. Custom blending, essential oils, homeopathics, handmade soaps and lotions, books, tarot cards and yard art. All natural. Servicing Baja Arizona since 2004. 6 Camino Otero, Tubac 520.398.9565 YardWoman.com

SOURCE GUIDE

COSECHANDO BIENESTAR An initiative to renew food traditions in Nogales so that locally-grown food is enjoyed by all for better health. We do this by improving access, building residents’ capacity to grow food, supporting sound policy and promoting local business. 520.375.6050 Facebook.com/NogalesMercado

TUCSON MUSEUM OF ART Western, Latin, modern and contemporary, and Asian art fills our historic city block in downtown Tucson for an everlasting experience while traveling exhibits keep the paint and clay fresh for each visit. 140 North Main Avenue, 520.624.2333 TucsonMuseumOfArt.org

ETHERTON GALLERY Founded in 1981, Etherton Gallery specializes in 19th, 20th century and contemporary fine photography, and features top local and regional artists working in all media. We also manage the Temple Gallery at the Temple of Music and Art. 135 S. 6th Avenue 520.624.7370 EthertonGallery.com

TUCSON ORIGINALS Since 1999, The Tucson Originals have been the driving force in promoting the value of Tucson’s independent restaurants and supporting Tucson’s culinary diversity. Visit our website for information on restaurant membership, events and special offers. 520.477.7950 TucsonOriginals.com

FOOD FOR HORSES An organization that helps to feed rescued animals and helping families before they’re forced to give up their horses; or worse, abandon them. Food for Horses raises money along with Food Trucks With A Cause/Tucson Food Truck Rally. These food trucks donate 15 percent of their sales to Food for Horses. For more info: 520.982.2645

YWCA TUCSON The Cafe at the YWCA: Setting the Table for Change. The Galleria Art and Gifts: Gifts with Purpose. Social Enterprises of the YWCA Tucson. Our Mission: Eliminating racism, empowering women and promoting peace, justice, freedom and dignity for all. 525 N. Bonita Ave. 520.884.7810 YWCATucson.com

HEALTHY YOU NETWORK The mission of Healthy You Network, Inc. is to promote the lifelong health benefits of a whole, plant-based lifestyle to residents of Arizona. 3913 East Pima Street 520.207.7503 HealthyYouNetwork.org

R ED B A RK DESIGN

l a n d s cap e d es ign | c on su lt in g p ro j e c t management | n a t ive ga rden s Darbi Davis, MLA, ASLA darbi@redbarkdesign.com | 520 247 2456 redbarkdesign.com

let your love for nourishing, local, and sustainable ingredients grow to include your entire home . . . X consulting X project management X offering Tucson a full menu X design

of ingredients for a healthy, beautiful home for 10 years

520.792.4207 www.originateNBM.com 526 north 9th avenue

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KXCI COMMUNITY RADIO Connecting the communities of Tucson and Southern Arizona to each other and to the world with informative, engaging and creative community-based radio programming.Tune in at 91.3 KXCI Tucson, or listen on-line at KXCI.org. MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART The MOCA inspires new ways of thinking through the cultivation, interpretation and exhibition of cutting-edge art of our time. 265 S. Church Avenue 520.624.5019 Moca-Tucson.org NATIONAL CENTER FOR INTERPRETATION A research and outreach unit at the University of Arizona charged with social justice for language minorities through cutting-edge research, training, and testing for interpreters and translators while advancing professionalism. 800 E University Blvd Suite 200 520.621.3615 NCI.Arizona.edu PIMA ASSOCIATION OF GOVERNMENTS A nonprofit metropolitan planning organization with Transportation Planning, Environmental Planning, Energy Planning and Technical Services divisions. 1 East Broadway Blvd, Suite 401 520.792.1093 PAGRegion.com SANTA CRUZ VALLEY HERITAGE ALLIANCE We connect people to the unique heritage resources of the Santa Cruz River Valley in southern Arizona. 520.882.4405 SantaCruzHeritage.org SONORAN INSTITUTE Founded in 1990, the Sonoran Institute informs and enables community decisions and public policies that respect the land and people of western North America. 44 E Broadway Blvd, Suite 350 520.290.0828 SonoranInstitute.org SOUTHERN ARIZONA ARTS & CULTURAL ALLIANCE A not-for-profit organization that exists to ensure that, through engagement in arts and culture, our communities produce strong, inspired citizens. 520.797.3959 SAACA.org TOHONO CHUL PARK One of the “World’s Ten Great Botanical Gardens” according to Travel + Leisure magazine, and the place in Tucson where nature, art and culture connect. 7366 N Paseo Del Norte 520.742.6455 TohonoChul.org TUCSON CLEAN & BEAUTIFUL A non-profit organization with the intent to preserve and improve our environment, conserve natural resources, and enhance the quality of life in the City of Tucson and eastern Pima County. These goals are achieved through initiating educational and participatory programs implemented with broad-citizen, multicultural support. 520.791.3109 TucsonCleanAndBeautiful.org TUCSON MEET YOURSELF Celebrates the authentic cultural foods and living traditional arts of ArizonaSonora’s folk and ethnic communities. 520.621.4046 TucsonMeetYourself.org

WATER RESOURCES RESEARCH CENTER The WRRC is committed to assisting communities in water management and policy, educating teachers, students and the public about water, and encouraging scientific research on state and regional water issues. 350 N Campbell Avenue 520.621.2526 WRRC.Arizona.edu PLANTS, SEEDS & GARDEN SUPPLY ARBICO ORGANICS Arbico Organics has been providing organic solutions for homeowners, gardeners, farmers and pet, horse and livestock owners since 1979. Products include beneficial insects and organisms, natural fertilizers, amendments, composting supplies, weed and disease controls, critter control and more. 800.827.2847 Arbico-Organics.com ARID LANDS GREENHOUSES We sell the most unusual plants: cacti, succulents, pachycaul trees, pachyforms, terrestrial bromeliads and orchids, and bulbs. Order online or to visit and browse, call ahead. 520.883.8874 AridLands.com B&B CACTUS FARM A cactus and succulent grower in Tucson, Arizona, B&B has both seasoned landscape specimens and plants for the collector. 11550 East Speedway 520.721.4687, BandBCactus.com BAMBOO RANCH Providing Desert Grown Bamboo since 1986. Specializing in non-invasive clumping bamboo suited to harsh conditions. Providing plants, poles and expert advice on species, growing and care, for privacy screening and shade. 520.743.9879 BambooRanch@juno. com, BambooRanch.net CIVANO NURSERY We carry a large variety of plants for our unique climate, pottery from around the world in various styles, colors and sizes. Wind chimes that sparkles and herbs and vegetables for your kitchen garden. Fruit trees and shade trees, and flowers for butterflies and bees.5301 South Houghton Road 520.546.9200 CivanoNursery.com ECOGRO A recognized resource for aquaponics, sustainable growing methods, unusual and rare plants, education, equipment and supplies so that plant and garden enthusiasts can acquire the tools and knowledge to achieve their goals of growing healthy food, minimizing environmental impacts, enjoying healthy plants and experiencing the pride of achievement. 657 W. St. Mary’s Road 520.777.8307 EcoGroHydro.com MESQUITE VALLEY GROWERS NURSERY A destination garden center with 24 acres of plants grown onsite, including desert natives, shade trees, fruit and nut trees, shrubs, roses, cacti and succulents. Also featuring fountains, statuary and garden accessories. Knowledgable staff on hand for planning, learning & diagnosis. 8005 East Speedway Boulevard 520.721.8600 NATIVE SEEDS/SEARCH Revered Tucson nonprofit and world-class seed bank saving and sharing the seeds of the desert Southwest since 1983. Classes, tours, seeds, native crafts and more! 3061 N. Campbell Avenue (store) and 3584 E. River Rd. (Center). 520.622.0830 NativeSeeds.org

ROMEO TREE SERVICE Certified arborist and tree worker, Angelo Romero is the author of the DVD Mesquites & Palo Verdes, A Home Owner’s Guide. 520.603.0143 RomerTreeService.com SILVERBELL NURSERY & COUNTRY STORE We sell bedding, garden and landscape plants, water harvesting supplies and now even pet food. “Our success is yours.” We believe that if we sell you a plant and tell you how to plant it, feed it, water it, harvest it and prune it, and you and the plant are successful, you will be back. 2730 N. Silverbell Road 520.622.3894 TANK’S GREEN STUFF Our mission is to create value added products from stuff that was once considered waste. To create jobs and great products that can be used to build a sustainable local economy. Our compost is a naturally made soil amendment, containing no fertilizers or chemical products. 520.290.9313 TanksGreenStuff.biz REAL ESTATE & PROPERTY MANAGEMENT BARRIO VIEJO RENTALS Become part of downtown’s historic district. Apartments rent from $650-$900 a month. Offices range from 400 to 6,000 square feet, and leases include off-street parking. Let us welcome you to the neighborhood. 520.623.4091 BarrioViejo.com HERBERT RESIDENTIAL Offering modern, urban living in downtown Tucson! Come see our newly remodeled studio and one bedroom apartments with breathtaking city views. 520-777-5771 HerbertLiving.com JILL RICH REALTOR I am dedicated to our Long Realty mission: To create an exceptional real estate services experience that builds long-lasting relationships. “It’s like having your grandma in the real estate business.” 520.349.0174 JillRich.LongRealty.com RETAIL SHOPS & PLAZAS ANGEL WINGS THRIFT & GIFT SHOP Offering a “boutique” shopping experience with an ever changing and wide variety of inventory. All proceeds go to Our Lady of the Angels Mission Catholic Church, newly built, in Sonoita. 22 Los Encinos Road. BUFFALO EXCHANGE We buy, sell, and trade designer wear, basics, vintage, and one-of-a-kind items. You can receive cash or trade for clothing on the spot! We’re a family operated company that works to sustain the environment by recycling clothing. 2001 E. Speedway Blvd. (Campus) 520.795.0508 & 6212 E. Speedway Blvd. (East Side) 520.885.8392 BuffaloExchange.com COPENHAGEN IMPORTS Committed to providing the highest quality service to our customers. Come in and experience our comfortable showroom with exciting displays and sales consultants who are truly interested in your furniture needs. 3660 E. Fort Lowell 520-795-0316 COWGIRL FLAIR Sonoita’s local “Gussy’d Up Outfitters” providing locals and tourists a variety of contemporary western wear, boots, jewelry, and home décor with a unique style at 3244 HWY 82 #5 in Sonoita, Arizona Wednesday through Sunday 11am to 5pm. 3244 HWY 82, Sonoita CowGirlFlairSonoita.com DESERT LEGACY GALLERY Offering Southwestern gifts and accessories. We also have a frame shop and an interior design service. If you like beautiful Native American and contemporary Southwest jewelry, saddle up your horse and ride on in! 3266 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.0555 DESERT VINTAGE We’ve come to be known as a great source for excellent, one-of-a-kind vintage pieces of quality and flair. We buy men’s and women’s vintage clothing and accessories seven days a week. Come by and check us out! 636 N. 4th Avenue 520.620.1570 ShopDesertVintage.com

HEART OF GOLD Offers true antiques(over 100 yrs old) and consignments from local estates. The owner is a certified appraiser and can help with consignment services, an estate sale, or appraisals of your treasures. P O Box 1273 Sonoita 520-394-0199 or cell 520-240-4490 HOW SWEET IT WAS Locally-owned since 1974, we specialize in vintage fashion from the 1880s-1980s. We also buy vintage everyday. No appointment necessary. 419 North 4th Avenue 520.623.9854

Grammy’s

ARTISAN JAMS, JELLIES, PICKLES AND MUSTARDS, HEIRLOOM TOMATOES located in Cochise Arizona

MAGNETIC THREADS Original Designs then constructed into handmade clothing by Meggen Connolley. 2 Copper Queen Plaza, Bisbee 917.660.4681 Magnetic-Threads.com MAST TUCSON A local lifestyle boutique. Specializing in handmade jewelry, leather goods, accessories, home goods & select furnishings. The three co-owners create the lion’s share of the stock, artfully curating an enticing selection from fellow designers and artisans. At Mercado San Agustin, 100 South Avenida Del Convento 520.495.5920 ILoveMast.com MERCADO SAN AGUSTIN Tucson’s first and only Public Market hosting to several locally-owned shops, eateries and incredible experiences. Our courtyard is home to the Santa Cruz River Farmers’ Market and many other special events. Open seven days a week with Farmers’ Market on Thursdays from 4-7 p.m. 100 S. Avenida del Convento 520.461.1110 MercadoSanAgustin.com PICÁNTE A treasure trove of traditional handmade crafts from Mexico, Guatemala and Latin America. Artisan works include colorful ceramics, tin objects, carved wood santos, and fine silver jewelry. There is an incredible collection of textiles, huipils, fabric by the yard, hand-embroidered blouses and dresses, and oilcloth. 2932 East Broadway Boulevard 520.320.5699 PicanteTucson.com POP-CYCLE A gift shop devoted to handmade items produced from recycled, reclaimed and sustainable materials. The products are fun and whimsical, with a little something for everyone. Many items are produced locally, some by the store owners. 422 North 4th Avenue 520.622.3297 PopCycleShop.com

Grammys.AZ Always a great place to find Briggs and Eggers organic fruit. BRING YOUR KIDS BY FOR A FREE APPLE!

Find us at all Heirloom Farmers’ Markets and the Sierra Vista Farmers’ Market

RUSTIC CANDLE COMPANY Locally-owned and operated.Our candles are hand poured on site. All styles, sizes & fragrances. Enjoy a fabulous selection of home decor, gift, incense, soap & much more! 324 North 4th Avenue 520.623.2880 RusticCandle.net SAN AGUSTIN TRADING COMPANY In addition to handmade moccasins from artisan Jesse Aguiar, this shop showcases fascinating Native American crafts and jewelry. 120 South Avenida del Convento 520.628.1800 SanAgustinTradingCompany.com STAGECOACH BAGS Handmade, one of a kind, cowboy boot purses made from authentic cowboy boots. Custom orders available. Unique styles for all that love the look of bling and western flair. Located in Cowgirl Country. PO Box 393, Sonoita 480.265.5312 StageCoachBags.com SWEET POPPY A one of a kind along with a unique selection of furniture, accessories, and much more. Located in the Mercado de Baca in Tubac next to Shelby’s Bistro. 19 Tubac Rd, Tubac (520) 398-2805 SweetPoppy.webs.com SWEET RIDE GIFTS & ACCESSORIES We carry a variety of Sonoita tees for men women and kids. Old guys Rule Tees, Hats and gift Items, Beautiful Bling Belts by Nocona and Jewelry for ladies. Also motorcycle related gift items for our biker enthusiasts. Stop in and see Valorie, she will be glad you did. 3244 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.4717 TUCSON THRIFT SHOP Tucson’s unique vintage and costume-wear resource for the fun side of life! Established in 1979, we have evolved with the 4th Avenue community into a blend of old and new. A marketplace for street-wear and theme party needs. Hours: M-Th: 10-8, F-Sat: 10-9, Sun: 12-6. 319 N. 4th Avenue 520.623.8736

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RILLITO NURSERY & GARDEN CENTER An independent family-owned business that has provided our customers with a diverse inventory of quality plants and products since 1994. Our goal is to provide quality products and excellent service at a fair price. 6303 N. La Cholla Boulevard 520.575.0995 RillitoNursery.com

TUMACACORI MESQUITE SAWMILL A leader in raw and finished mesquite materials. From lumber, slabs, posts, to exotic burls and burl slabs, The Sawmill has an ever changing selection. 2007 E. Frontage Road 520.398.9356 Tumacacori MesquiteDesign.com WILDFLOWER JEWELRY & ART We offer affordable and fun arts and crafts classes and has a wide selection of jewelry, drawings, quilts, plants, and more. Find us on Etsy. 27 Subway #4, Bisbee 520.234.5528 YIKES TOYS! A cornucopia for the curious! Enchanting books, wacky wonders and old-school novelties. Brainbuilding science, kooky kitsch and fantastic fun. We offer amazing toys and gifts for all ages. Specializing in Pop Culture & Quirky Fun. 2930 East Broadway Boulevard 520.320.5669 YikesToys.com SCHOOLS GREEN FIELDS COUNTRY DAY SCHOOL Challenge. Inquiry. Balance. The foundations of a Green Fields education. From Kindergarten to Commencement, students are encouraged to develop their interests in Academics, Fine Arts, Sports, and more. Class sizes are small and students receive individual attention. 6000 N. Camino de la Tierra 520.297.2288 GreenFields.org KINO SCHOOL Where students are given the responsibility and freedom that are the essence of a democratic society. Students of all abilities succeed where learning, creativity, respect for others, and community thrives. 6625 N. First Avenue 520.297.7278 KinoSchool.org SKY ISLAND HIGH SCHOOL A tuition FREE Public High School Now Enrolling Grades 9-12. Our integrated curriculum is guided by layers of this regional ecosystem - its history, cultures, arts, archeologies, & natural patterns - and linked to the larger world. 6000 E 14th Street 520.382.9210 SkyIslands.org ST. GREGORY COLLEGE PREPARATORY SCHOOL Inspired learning—Beyond strong academics. St. Gregory develops inspired students who are encouraged to pursue their individual passion and develop a love for learning. Our students are well prepared to excel in college and go on to create impactful and fulfilling lives. 3231 N. Craycroft Road, 520.327.6395 StGregorySchool.org TUCSON WALDORF SCHOOL Tucson Waldorf School is located in the scenic Binghampton Rural Historic Landscape and is home to the River Road Gardens CSA farm. Children from Parent-Child Classes through 8th Grade experience an engaging education which cultivates joy and excellence in learning. The arts are integrated throughout a classical curriculum and handson work. Weekly tours available.520.529.1032 Tucson Waldorf.org SERVICES DNA PERSONAL TRAINING/CROSSFIT ScienceBased Fitness and Nutrition - CrossFit - Kettlebells. Wise training for wise people. 930 North Stone Avenue and 3305 North Swan Road 520.327.0600 DNAPersonalTraining.com

SOURCE GUIDE

ORDINARY BIKE SHOP Servicing bikes of all sorts and selling new and used bikes and parts. “Life is like riding a bicycle—in order to keep your balance, you must keep moving.” ~Albert Einstein. 311 E 7th Street 520.622.6488 OrdinaryBikeShop.com SOLAR ENERGY SERVICES & PRODUCTS SOUTHWEST SOLAR Providing the highest quality evaporative cooling products, customer service, and passive heating/cooling techniques; while being a model business for environmentally conscious and safe business practices and ethics through our use of renewable and sustainable energy sources and green building technology. 5085 S. Melpomene Way 520.885.7925 Southwest-Solar.com

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TECHNICIANS FOR SUSTAINABILITY A Tucson based, locally-owned, mission-driven company specializing in renewable energy and sustainable technologies for residential and commercial settings, including solar electric (PV) and solar hot water. 520.740.0736 TFSSolar.com TRAVEL & TOURISM SILVER CITY Be here for lunch—a three hour drive from Tucson. Nationally recognized cuisine, historic downtown district, arts, Gila National Forest, WNMU University, fresh air, clear skies, mild climate, great festivals, a top-ten destination, quaint and quirky! 575.538.5555 SilverCityTourism.org VENUES, THEATRES & ENTERTAINMENT BISBEE ROYALE A cultural events venue screening new, classic and foreign films & hosting wine tastings, poetry, flamenco concerts & more! 94 Main Street, Bisbee BisbeeRoyale.com D&D PINBALL A great place to enjoy the Art and Sport of Pinball in Tucson Arizona. Open Thursday through Sunday. 331 East 7th Street 520.777.4969 DandDPinball.com RIALTO THEATRE Recognized by the Tucson Weekly as the Best Indoor Venue for 9 year running, the nonprofit Rialto Theatre is the best place to see live music in Tucson, bar none. 318 E Congress Street 520.740.1000 RialtoTheatre.com LOFT CINEMA A local nonprofit cinema dedicated to creating community through film, honoring the vision of filmmakers, promoting the appreciation and understanding of the art of film. Check out the Loft Cinema Farmers’ Market on Saturdays from 8 a.m.12 noon on the patio. 3233 East Speedway Boulevard 520.795.7777 LoftCinema.com THE MINI TIME MACHINE MUSEUM OF MINIATURES Displaying more than 275 antique and contemporary miniatures in a state-of-the-art building sure to entertain and educate visitors of all ages. 4455 East Camp Lowell Drive 520.881.0606 TheMiniTimeMachine.org WELLNESS CONSULTANTS BOBCAT CONSULTING We are Bob Harris & Catriona O’Curry.We bring 20-30 years experience working with Couples, Adults & Kids; Masters degrees in Psychology; Reiki Masters; 4 Year Diplomas in Energy Healing; Mentoring Groups for Women & Men; Classes & Cranial Sacral Therapy. 520.822.4982 BobCatIntegrativeConsulting.com

SOURCE GUIDE edible Baja Arizona

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LAST BITE

The Renegade by Gary Patch

Like nearly every morning over the past few months, I hear the beating of wings accompanied by a series of loud, staccato clucks as she descends from her hideaway in the chinaberry trees. Our little renegade. She follows me from the house as I walk into the yard and scoop a handful of feed from the bag of scratch, stooping and holding out my palm. She flicks her head from right to left, eyeing the grain, finally darting in to begin her meal for the day. After hearing the rustle of the bag of scratch, the six hens in the coop cluster together in the corner of the pen, poking their heads through the chain-link toward the food—and the bantam. Our friend Amy had found this lovely bantam hen abandoned and half dead near her ranchito on the Santa Cruz River. She took her in, nursed her back to health and, knowing we were “chicken people,” delivered her to our house last fall. Chickens can be a finicky lot. Much like people, once they have settled into their order they don’t like the established rules to be upset. They don’t take a fancy to the outsider, the unknown, or a change in routine. So when Amy’s pretty little bantam was introduced to our flock of six, they fanned out along the edges of the pen and chicken-patrolled back and forth as the newcomer stood stockstill in the center of the coop. After several minutes, at some unseen, secret chicken signal, they rushed the bantam. The bantam took a few pecks to the head and then began to scramble, squawking wildly about as the others chased her down with murder in their reptilian eyes. I dove into the coop and grabbed her, saving her from the clutches of an early chicken lynching. We put her back in a cardboard box and re-strategized. Our barrio roost is made of a couple of old two-by-fours set at four feet or so under a tin-roofed, ramshackle shelter, all held together with baling wire. It’s an ignoble structure that serves a higher purpose. We call it the Kate Moss Coop because the famous supermodel once squatted inside while an equally famous photographer shot pictures of her holding our chickens for an even more famous international magazine. We thought all this fame would go to their little hen heads, but their egg laying stayed the same as ever. They say chickens, like supermodels, aren’t the brightest of birds, though over the years of living with them (chickens, not supermodels) I beg to differ. There is great a . M . shar P .

generosity in what they have offered up over the 20-odd years we have kept them in our barrio yard, and though I can’t have a philosophical debate with them, I can’t lay an egg. We decided to place the bantam back in the coop at nighttime, after everyone had roosted and settled in. In theory they would all wake up with the sun, assume the stranger had been there all along, and peck their way toward a new, harmonious brown and blue egg-hued future ... all sunny-side up. At 10 p.m., I plucked the bantam from her cardboard box and carried her to the Kate Moss Coop. Bantam in one hand, flashlight in the other, we silently approached the roost where all the ladies were lined up. Disturbed, the chickens stared broodingly down at the light. I shifted the bantam around to where her rear was pointed away from me and then scooted her gently between an Araucana and a Barred Rock. Her feet latched the two-by-four and I pulled my hands away. I backed out of the shed but before I was out, one of the hens next to the bantam began a nervous clucking, one that got louder and louder. Her rally cry alerted the others and soon they were all a flutter-cluck of chicken indignation. In fear, the bantam leapt from the roost and shot past my head. I hadn’t yet clipped the bantam’s wings and rather than take any more abuse from the others—or me—she simply flew up and landed on the top rail of the six-foot chain-link fence. I could barely see her in the dark, but I could hear her as she flew up and hopped higher, branch by branch, into the chinaberry trees and starlight above. Sometimes I don’t see or hear from her for days at a time, but she has been living wild and free for almost a year now. At times I even forget that she is in the neighborhood, and then, unexpectedly, I hear the beating of her wings and her familiar clucking announcing her expectant arrival at our back door. ✜ Gary Patch is a long time Barrio Viejo resident and designer. Concerned with the global homogenization of design and loss of historic aesthetics, Gary, along with his partner Darren Clark, strives to incorporate the local vernacular in a true-to-place, modern way. Some of their public works include the Cup Cafe, the Portrait Project in the Fourth Avenue Underpass, and the Rialto Theatre’s new R Bar.