EDIBLE ENDEAVORS

Cheesemaker Fons Smits demonstrates how to make mozzarella Dairy King

BY AMY LYNCH PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY MAE HINKLE

Though he happens to be a native Dutchman, Zionsville-based cheesemaker Fons Smits definitely knows what he’s doing when it comes to fresh Italian mozzarella.

An international dairy consultant with past full-time positions at Traders Point Creamery and Ludwig Farmstead Creamery on his resume, Smits opened his own Tulip Tree Creamery in Indianapolis earlier this year. Here, he produces around 100 pounds of fresh mozzarella each week as part of a product lineup that includes cultured butter; fromage frais, or fresh cheese; Trillium, a triple-cream mold-ripened cheese; Foxglove, a doublecream washed-rind cheese; and Nettle, an herb-coated fresh cheese similar to chèvre.

“For us, the mozzarella is mainly a farmers’ market product, but we are getting it to some retailers and hope to get some chefs to work with it as well,” Smits says.

The mozzarella production process follows the same steps as other types of cheese, right up until the final stage, which requires stretching the curds to create a pliable texture.

“Mozzarella is a very simple cheese, but its success depends on one point in the process — the pH [acidity] of the curd,” Smits explains. “If the pH is too low, the curd won’t stretch; it falls apart or becomes almost liquid. When the pH is too high, the curd is too tough. When you hit it right and the stretch is perfect, it feels like a victory.”

How to best enjoy the finished product is a matter of personal taste, but Smits prefers fresh mozzarella in simple preparations that let the flavor of the cheese shine.

“A great mozzarella doesn’t need a lot—a pizza with a great sauce, or a tomato with a few herbs makes a great snack,” he says. “My daughter, Dana, puts mozzarella on almost everything; it’s ideal to mix into any pasta dish. And she loves to cut it into small cubes to melt into tomato basil soup.”

Tulip Tree Creamery’s fresh brine-packed mozzarella is available at local farmers’ markets and through specialty gourmet retailers like Goose the Market, Artisano’s and Rail Epicurean; units typically sell for $5 to $8, depending on size.

Want to try making your own fresh mozzarella at home? DIY kits that include everything but the milk are available through online retailers like Amazon and the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company. Here, Smits offers a step-by-step tutorial: Fresh milk (Smits recommends using whole non-homogenized milk for the best flavor, and as fresh as possible.) Citric acid or vinegar (about 1½ teaspoons of citric acid for 1 gallon of whole milk equals about 8 grams of cheese) Rennet Cheesecloth for draining the curds Hot water Salt

Follow the instructions on the kits for measurements and amounts, adjusting slightly as needed. Smits says making fresh mozzarella is often a trialand-error process that requires practice to become perfect.

Step 1

Step 2 Step 3

TULIP TREE IS AVAILABLE AT

Goose the Market 2503 N. Delaware St. Indianapolis

Pogue’s Run Grocer 2828 E. 10th St. Indianapolis

Rail Epicurean 211 Park St. Westfield

For a full listing of locations or to find out about cheesemaking classes visit:

Tulip Tree Creamery TulipTreeCreamery.com 317.331.5469

Amy Lynch is an Indianapolisbased freelance writer and editor. She enjoys cooking, local beer, travel, gardening and yoga. Step 1: Heat milk to between 90° and 100°F.

Step 2: While maintaining the temperature and stirring constantly, add the citric acid or vinegar a little at a time until the pH measures between 5.2 and 5.3. Many home kits include papers to measure the pH, but a pH meter will provide the most accurate readings. This step takes about 5 minutes.

Step 3: Remove from heat, add the rennet and allow the mixture to set at room temperature for about 20 to 30 minutes.

Step 4: Cut the curds into large pieces, let them rest for a few minutes and stir gently. Wrap the curds in cheesecloth and let drain over a strainer until fairly dry and crumbly (anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours).

Step 5: Place the drained curd into a large bowl, add salt and cover with hot water that’s been heated to just under boiling. Wearing protective gloves, stretch the curd for a few minutes until soft and pliable. Squeeze the curd into balls of any size.

Step 6: The mozzarella is ready to eat immediately, or place the balls into a brine solution that measures 5.2 pH. The mozzarella will keep in the refrigerator in a closed container for up to two weeks.

* At Tulip Tree, Smits uses culture in place of the citric acid or vinegar most home kits recommend, which alters the timing of the process, the flavor and the appearance of the finished product somewhat.