LAST BITE

Bavarian Heritage with a Hoosier Heart OLDENBURG

BY JANE SIMON AMMESON

Oldenburg’s Pearl Street Pub.

With its soaring church steeples dominating the sky in the gently rolling hills of Southeastern Indiana, Oldenburg, known as the Village of Spires, is the perfect place for a taste of early-19th-century Bavarian hospitality, charm and cuisine.

“The majority of people who live here are German,” says Paul Selkirk, who—though he isn’t—has for the last 35 years been festival chair of Freudenfest: German for “festival of fun.” This celebration of all things German is held the third weekend of July and attracts about 12,000 people to this village of 600.

“All the food we sell at the festival is homemade. Townspeople just get together and start cooking.”

That cooking includes homemade pies, which are auctioned off at Freudenfest, ranging from $15 to $1,000. The proceeds from the auction, as well as all other sales, including the numerous German draught offerings in the biergarten, are used for the beautification, preservation and restoration of Oldenburg.

“We have people who have been entering pies since I began running the auction 20 years ago,” says Marla Nobbe. “And who knows how long they were donating pies for the auction before that. Because the festival is in the summer, we mostly have fruit pies, but there are cream pies too.”

In an interesting culinary twist that seems so Southern Indiana, the specialty of several long time restaurants isn’t just the German dishes found at the Freudenfest or featured on their menus.

“If you want Bavarian food, we have brats and metts, which are smoked sausages,” says Betsy McCray, the daytime bartender at Wagner’s Village Inn, which opened in 1959. “We serve it with homemade sauerkraut that a man in Oldenburg makes and that we keep in a big ceramic crock that came from Germany. But we’re also known for having the best fried chicken in Southern Indiana.”

Th eir chicken is dusted with coarse ground pepper, salt and fl our and then pan-fried in lard. But McCray says it’s not the recipe that makes it a winning dish, but the cooking method.

“We fry our chicken in the same cast-iron pan we’ve used for years,” she says. “It hasn’t been cleaned since 1988, just scraped and seasoned, the way a good iron skillet should be maintained. We also make pan gravy for our mashed potatoes in that skillet.”

Just a block away, Th e Brau Haus, which opened 94 years ago, features such lieblingsgeruchte (favorites) as fresh bratwurst with sauerkraut on rye with a side of German potato salad and vorspeisen (appetizers) like sauerkraut balls served with Dusseldorf mustard. Hand cut, tenderized and hand breaded schnitzel is also on the menu. But they too are also known for, you guessed it, fried chicken.

“I know it’s kind of strange since we’re a German-American restaurant,” says manager Jeff Batta, “but people love our chicken. We dip it in fl our and seasonings and deep fry it.”

Bavarian cuisine was part of Batta’s culinary heritage growing up on the family farm 15 miles outside of the village. His mom, who is from Oldenburg, cooked German dishes and he remembers watching his grandmother make sauerkraut.

“I’ve been to Bavaria four times,” Batta says, “and Oldenburg really resembles both Germany and Austria.”

Th at most likely was the idea back in 1837 when the village was founded by two German speculators who hailed from the province of Oldenburg in Northern Germany. In ways, little has changed. Homes and businesses are meticulously maintained, the gardens and window boxes fi lled with an abundance of fl owers and the streets, well … they’re spotless.

Eighty of Oldenburg’s 115 homes were built before the 20th century began and the entire village is on the National Register of Historic Places. Street names end with strasse (road) and the village’s businesses include Schwestern (sisters) Gallery, which features works by local artists; Carriage House Antiques, or Kutschenhaus, located in a former carriage house built in the late 1800s; and the Kessing Haus Café, known for its freshly made breads baked in a wood-burning oven.

Several walking tours provide more glimpses into Oldenburg’s history. “A Franciscan Adventure” winds its way among the complex of buildings belonging to the Sister of St. Francis of Oldenburg, who fi rst arrived there in 1851.

Th e grounds include a 300-acre farm (monasteries used to be selfsustaining with dairy cows, carpentry shops and crops); the Immaculate Conception Chapel, built in 1889 with a 161-foot tall tower and belfry and a stone grotto with hedges in front spelling the Latin word for peace; Our Lady of Fatima Shrine; and the Oldenburg Academy, which opened in 1852 as a boarding school for girls.

I NDIANA BREWERS’ CUP

I NDIANA STATE FAIR CRAFT BEER COMPETITI ON

Home Brewers and Breweries compete July 10 & 11 – Awards Reception on July 11th open to the public this year!

Back for its second year in the Grand Hall during the Fair! Great showcase for Indiana vintners and brewers…and good times for the guests!

Buy local during the Fair. Stop by the Hoosier Market in its new location – the Purdue Extension Ag/Hort Building.

A tour of the village highlights such details as the stained glass windows at the Convent Chapel and the tin façade of the 1861 Hackman-Munchel Store—the largest secular building in town. Other architectural touches to look for include the engraved sun and moon and initials I.H.E.H. on the Huegel House’s stone lintel. Th ose are the initials of the original owners who built the house in 1845. Th e moon and sun indicate the tavern and inn, open day and night.

As for the spires, there are the Victorian Romanesque and Baroque-style Franciscan chapels and churches topped with a variety of peaks, a rare Zwiebelturum, or onion dome, and a Gothic peak among others.

Less historical, but so much fun, brightly painted fi re hydrants show the faces of the original owners whose homes they front. And, no matter how full you are, one other must stop is the Pearl Street Tavern, which has been a popular place for drinks and food in Oldenburg since the 1850s.

For more information, please visit Freudenfest.com or FranklinCountyIN.com.

Jane Simon Ammeson is a freelance writer and photographer who specializes in travel, food and personalities. A member of the Indiana Foodways Alliance, Jane is a James Beard Foundation judge for the Great Lakes Region and a member of Society of American Travel Writers and Midwest Travel Writers Association. Read her blog at NWITimes.com/niche/shore/blogs/will-travel-for-food; Twitter @ HPAmmeson.

Hoosier Market

To participate as a competitor or vendor in any of the activities, visit the 2015 Indiana State Fair website.

INDIANASTATEFAIR.COM

Master Food Preserver Joyce L. Moore keeps family traditions alive Life Preserver

BY AMY LYNCH, PHOTOGRAPHY BY CASSIE TAM

“We mostly use things people can grow in their own gardens at home,” she says. “Tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, jellies, jams, conserves— whatever someone wants to preserve, we can do it.”

Joyce L. Moore isn’t just preserving food. She’s preserving her family’s history.

Growing up, the Edwards-Moore family kept chickens and ducks and gardened. Th ey turned to preserving as a way to augment their income and to enjoy the fruits of their labors year round. From age 10, Moore pitched in to help.

“I love to garden, and preserving is just something I’ve always done,” she says. “My grandmother used to do it, and had a grapevine that she used to make jelly. I can still remember harvesting the grapes, and the good smells in the kitchen.” Now owner of her own real estate company, Moore also happily shares her gardening and preserving knowledge with new generations through her role as director and programs manager of Urban Patch. Founded in December 2011, the family owned and operated enterprise seeks to improve inner city culture by turning vacant properties into useable neighborhoodfocused growing spaces that provide fresh, healthy food and ecological benefi ts.

Moore’s son, Justin, an urban designer and city planner in New York City, hit upon the idea to create Urban Patch after researching his father’s family history through the Indiana Historical Society and Indianapolis Recorder.

“He recognized that the concepts of teaching people how to be self-suffi cient and addressing the whole person were things we should be bringing back and implementing in our communities today,” Moore says. “He wrote a paper called ‘Past Forward,’ and people were really engaged in it.”

Th e development of Urban Patch was modeled after what Moore’s own father-in-law, an agriculturalist during the Great Migration, was able to achieve working with Indianapolis’

Spicy Green Tomato Salsa

Courtesy of Joyce L. Moore Makes about 6 (8-ounce) half pints

7 cups green tomatoes, peeled, cored and chopped 5–10 jalapeño, habanero or Scotch bonnet peppers, seeded and fi nely chopped* 2 cups chopped red onion 2 cloves garlic, fi nely chopped ½ cup lime juice ½ cup loosely packed cilantro, fi nely chopped 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoons dried oregano 1 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 6 (8-ounce) half pint glass preserving jars with lids and bands Prepare boiling water canner. Heat jars and lids in simmering water until ready for use. Do not boil. Set bands aside.

Combine tomatoes, peppers, onion, garlic and lime juice in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil. Stir in cilantro, cumin, oregano, salt and pepper. Reduce heat. Simmer 5 minutes.

Ladle hot salsa into hot jars leaving ½ inch headspace. Stir jars gently to remove air bubbles. Wipe rim. Center hot lid on jar. Apply band and adjust until fi t is fi ngertip tight.

Process fi lled jars in a boiling water canner for 20 minutes, adjusting for altitude. Remove jars and cool. Check lids for seal after 24 hours. Lids should not fl ex up and down when center is pressed. * Use 5 to 10 hot peppers to reach the level of heat you desire. When cutting or seeding hot peppers, wear rubber gloves to prevent hands from being burned.

The Loft Restaurant & Dairy Bar

BRUNCH LUNCH DINNER ----------------------The Roost

Private Event Room ----------------------Farm Store Tours Cow Milking Parlor

Dinner on the Deck & Farmers Market

Friday nights June-August

9101 Moore Rd, Zionsville traderspointcreamery.com 317-733-1700

Courtesy of Joyce L. Moore Makes about 40 servings

1½ pounds banana peppers or mixed colored peppers, cut into strips 1 pound jalapeño peppers, cut into strips ¼ pound Serrano peppers, cut into 1-inch pieces 6 cups white vinegar 2 cups water 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 medium onion, chopped

Place peppers into a large pot. Add vinegar, water, garlic and onion. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, simmer for 5 minutes.

Ladle pepper mixture into canning jars, leaving ¼ inch of headspace. Stir jars gently to remove air bubbles. Place 2-piece lids on jars and twist until finger-tight.

Place jars in the rack of a large canning pan. Fill with enough water to cover jars completely. Bring water to a boil. Boil for 10 to 15 minutes. Carefully remove jars and let cool. Refrigerate after opening.

Peppers will keep unopened for a year. Once opened, peppers in the fridge are good for about two weeks.

Serve peppers in salads or with meat. To reduce the amount of heat, remove seeds from peppers before boiling.

(Flanner House in the 1940s and ’50s. Flanner House is located just north of downtown Indianapolis and assists community members with an eye towards self-sufficiency.) Urban Patch used 100 acres of inner city vacant land to educate program participants about how to grow and cook their own food.

“Part of that project was a cannery built by veterans, and they taught people about cooking, nutrition, farming and food preservation,” Moore says. “We wanted to bring that sense of community back and start teaching people how to do all this for themselves, so they don’t have to be so consumer-based.”

Thanks to Urban Patch, Indy’s local inner city communities have access to a range of healthy, locally grown fruits and vegetables including tomatoes, herbs, strawberries, cherries—even lavender.

Having earned her status as a Master Food Preserver through a Purdue Extension program (she’s also a Purdue Master Gardener), Moore teaches seasonal preserving classes through Urban Patch at Indy’s Kitchen on the near northside.

“We mostly use things people can grow in their own gardens at home,” she says. “Tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, jellies, jams, conserves — whatever someone wants to preserve, we can do it.”

Moore also points out that preserving isn’t just about hot-water-bath canning and jarring, but includes freezing, drying and fermenting as well.

“Preserving isn’t difficult to do, but some people are afraid of it or intimidated by it,” she says. “Our classes offer safety tips and allow participants to experience the preserving process firsthand and understand what to look for.”

Moore credits the current surge of renewed interest in preserving to several factors.

“Mostly, it’s a nostalgic process,” she says. “But also, people these days like to know where their food is coming from and how it’s grown. And, by preserving, you can eat from your garden all year long.”

For more information about Urban Patch and Moore’s seasonal preserving classes, visit UrbanPatch.org.

Amy Lynch is an Indianapolis-based freelance writer and editor. She enjoys cooking, local beer, travel, gardening and yoga.

Eating Local Simplifi ed

Getting Hoosier-grown goodness on your plate doesn’t have to involve hours in the kitchen. These fi ne establishments proudly serve up the freshest locally sourced cuisine.

The farm-to-table movement begins with Central Indiana farms and dedicated producers who care about bringing only the best to market, which is a very good thing for locally owned restaurants that search out the best dairy, meat, produce and beverages for their patrons.

Farm-to-table is gaining momentum not only with bornand-bred Hoosiers, but the many visitors to Central Indiana. Edible Indy connects growers, producers and food artisans with their community.

Here is a select list of some of those chefs and owners who take great pride in celebrating Hoosier-grown goodness.

*This is a paid advertisement. Bloomingfoods, a Bloomington staple since 1972, is one of the nation’s largest co-ops, featuring the freshest hot bar with ingredients from over 50 local farms. Hot bar available at Third Street, Sixth Street and Kirkwood Avenue locations. Bloomingfoods.coop 3220 E. Third St., Daily 8am–10pm, 812.336,5400 316 W. Sixth St., M–Sa 7am–10pm, Su 8am–9pm, 812.333.7312 419 E. Kirkwood Ave., M–Sa 8am–9pm, Su 10am–5pm, 812.336.5300

We’re proud to keep it local at Harry & Izzy’s! Three restaurants sourcing locally from 10 regional farms, four breweries and seven locally owned purveyors or producers leads to one great meal. All open M–Th 11am–11pm, F–Sa 11am–midnight, Su noon–9pm. HarryAndIzzys.com Downtown: 153 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis, 317.635.9594 Northside: 4050 E. 82nd St., Indianapolis, 317.915.8045 Airport: 7800 Col. Weir Cook Memorial Dr., Indianapolis, 317.241.0533

Milktooth is a neighborhood brunch destination, serving up Indy’s fi rst Mod Bar coff ee program along with upscale breakfast and lunch. Focusing on seasonal, local ingredients—everything is made in house. 317.986.5131, MilktoothIndy.com 534 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis, W–M 7am–3pm Featured as one of Gayot’s top 10 new restaurants of 2013, Cerulean off ers contemporary American cuisine with an emphasis on Hoosier hospitality in a casual fi ne-dining environment. CeruleanRestaurant.com/ indianapolis 339 S. Delaware St., Indianapolis, Lunch: M–F 11am–2pm, Dinner: M–Sa 5:30–10pm, 317.870.1320

The District Tap is Indianapolis’s newest tap house featuring more than 60 beers including over 30 local craft beers on tap and a menu of unique food options they call damn good food. TheDistrictIndy.com 3720 E. 82nd St., Indianapolis, F–Sa 11am–1am, Su noon–midnight, 317.577.7800

The Loft Restaurant and Dairy Bar at Traders Point Creamery is a true farm-to-table restaurant, located in a historic barn on an organic dairy farm, serving farm-raised, local and organic fare. Open for lunch, candlelit dinners and Sunday brunch. 317.733.1700, TraderspointCreamery.com 9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, Lunch: M–Sat 11am–2:30pm, Dinner: Tu–Th, Su 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm, Sunday Brunch: 9:30am–2:30pm

Housed in a former rockabilly nightclub from the 50s/60s, Thunderbird is one of the shining stars in Indiana’s gastronomic revolution. An attentive cocktail list complements the 80-seat dining area dedicated to all things Southern. Fuel up on perfect portions of biscuits and gravy, cornbread with maple syrup and hushpuppies or order from one of the most extensive bourbon menus in Indiana. 317.974.9580, ThunderbirdIndy.com 1127 Shelby St., Indianapolis, Tu–Th 4pm–midnight, F–Sa 4pm–2am, Su 4–10pm

Tina’s Traditional Old English Kitchen off ers a Slice of Britain on a plate with authentic British lunches and all day High Tea in a tearoom. Traditional British recipes made in-house from local ingredients or genuine imports. Theme nights, parties and group catering. TinasTraditional.com 30 N. Rangeline Rd, Carmel, T–Su 11am–4pm, 317.565.9716 The Propylaeum: 1410 N. Delaware, Indianapolis , M–F 11am–3pm, 317.638.7881

A locally owned, quaint cafe featuring clean scratch made food. They use pasture raised meats and nonGMO fed dairy supporting local farmers throughout the year. Vendors include Traders Point Creamery, Tyner Pond Farm’s sausage, local farm fresh eggs, Corner Stone Bakery bread, Smoking Goose Meats, blood sausage from Chicago and locally roasted organic Harvest Café coff ee. 9840 N. Michigan Rd., Carmel, M–Sa 8am–2pm, Su Brunch 9am–2pm, 317.283.2776, jacquies.net Inspired by authentic local ingredients, this modern sophisticated restaurant puts a modern per-spective on the classics. From the fi rst sip to the last bit experience one-of-a-kind dishes that will ignite any appetite. 123 S.Illinois St., Indianapolis, Breakfast daily: 7am–10:30am, Lunch daily: 10:30am–2pm, Dinner: M–Th 5:30pm–10pm, F–Sa 5pm–10pm, 317.737.1616, SpokeAndSteele.com

St. Elmo gives a big thank you to our local partners! As a locally owned business for over 110 years we take great pride in our local business relationships. Cheers to independent businesses! 317.635.0636, StElmos.com 127 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis, M–F 4–11pm, Sa 3–11pm, Su 4–10pm Founded in 2009, Chef JJ’s Back Yard is a unique, personal and hands-on culinary experience with a focus on the Big Green Egg®, corporate team building, private events and grilling classes. 317.602.3828, ChefJJs.com Downtown: 42 W. South St., Indianapolis, opening Spring 2015 1040 Broad Ripple Ave., Indianapolis, M–F 11am–6pm, Sa 10am–5pm.

Local Roots, California Wines (and vibes)! If you love tasting great Napa Valley wine in a fun, eclectic, groovy atmosphere, then Peace Water Winery is your place! Best yet, 50% of our profi ts are donated to charities. So come in for a tasting, buy a glass, take home a bottle or join our wine club and learn how “One Bottle Does a World of Good!”. 317.810.1330, PeaceWaterWinery.com 37 W. Main St., Carmel, T–Th 2–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm, Su noon–5pm

Upland off ers a brewpub, beer bar, tap house and tasting room, all serving up Indiana’s fi nest craft brews,gourmet burgers to beet and pesto pizza. The Carmel Tap House and the Brew Pub have full service lunch and dinner menus. For a full listing of locations visit UplandBeer.com Bloomington BrewPub: 350 W. 11th St., Bloomington, M–Th 11am–12am, F–Sa 11am–1am, Su 12pm— 12am, 812.336.2337 Carmel Tap House: 820 E. 116th St., Carmel, M–Th 11am–12am, F–Sa 11am–1am, Su 12pm–12am, 317.564.3400 The Garden Table is a local eatery and fresh juicery in the heart of the Broad Ripple Village. We serve seasonally infl uenced and locally sourced food and cold pressed juice. We believe in simple dishes, made from natural ingredients, grown and harvested by local farmers. 317.737.2531. TheGardenTable.com 908 E. Westfi eld Blvd., Indianapolis, Tu–Sa 8am–3pm , Su 9am–3pm.

Playing a winning hand with the local food movement Voices of a Generation

Julia Chilcote, 22 Graphic Design Student, Ball State University, Muncie Favorite Food: Cheese

“Farm-to-table is something I have heard over the past couple of years. The fact it seems so new is alarming and we should know more. I would like to be an advocate of the farm-to-table movement, as the movement has so many benef its and

I have recently read community gardens e help race relations

BY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN, PHOTOGRAPH BY AUDRA STERNBERG Edible Indy recently hosted an open conversation with Millenials to discuss their thoughts, philosophies and experiences with the Hoosier food movement. Their voices are strong, opinionated and passionate about all things food. During the next few issues, Edible Indy will be sharing their voice, along with the voices of other generations.

Alyssa Servies, 24 Graduate and Law School Student, Indianapolis If you were a food, what would you be?: Granola “Our generation is realizing the old food model of processed food is creating problems. I love the idea of renting a portable hicken coop to have farm fresh eggs when I have my own home.”

Melanie Eich, 24 Law School Student, Indianapolis Roller Derby Nickname: Hitter Up Style ““My roommates and I tend to meal prep for the week to help save time. Organic fresh produce and convenience is so my budget to order Green BEAN Delivery and have it delivered to my home.” Rachel Fulkerson, 23 Sudent and Coach, Brownsburg Favorite Food: Anything from the lake or ocean “Transferring down from generation to generation, I feel the energy and time isn’t being spent in the kitchen any longer. Meals need to be quicker and faster, and it really bothers me when I see a family out to dinner with the kids on their iPads versus having social communication.” Austin Jameson, 22 Student, Ball State University, Muncie Favorite Place to eat in Central Indiana: Pizzology “My roommates look at me sideways because I am always cooking up eggs and eating bananas. In fact, one of my roommates lives on dino nuggets because they are 32 cents cheaper than other chicken [nuggets].”