anyone who has seen him on “Chef’s Table” or “Mind of a Chef” might feel otherwise. Can that level of fussy artistry be classified merely as his quirky panache? With Mallmann, I can’t help but want to set the record straight, and something tells me his ego can handle it. I guess it could be my deep hatred of any soupçon of elitism. Is it his fun outfits, fully equipped with French berets and capes, that make him seem like an Argentine superhero? Or is it his unabashed ego that somehow flaunts a silver spoon, which is never becoming. I mean ponchos are still cool, and he’s not appropriating them. The beret? Maybe. Fans or critics of the menus I design and execute are definitely aware that, although I sometimes enjoy complexity, my true nature leans toward the simple. When I cook for myself with no agenda and nothing to prove, it’s usually a simple protein with some veggies and aromatics, smoked low and slow, or cooked minimally on relatively high heat in butter or animal fat. Open-fire cooking for me is a special occasion. In Seven Fires, Mallmann writes that he grew “tired of making fancy French food for wealthy customers in Buenos Aires” and decided to research and return to his fiery Argentinian roots. This led him to an even more exclusive way of life that allows him to charge exorbitant fees to fly around the world cooking for celebrities like Bono. For $44,000 you and three friends can get some open-fire cooking lessons from him in Patagonia. It’s a reminder that in this day and age someone with a novel marketing campaign can sell an old idea. I liken it to the first person to market butter as gluten-free. I don’t question that Mallmann’s food is delicious. He is classically trained and has worked with high-caliber chefs in France at Michelin-starred restaurants. I love so many things that he loves; I just don’t seem to like him very much. Still, at the very least, I can thank Mallmann for reminding me to tell you how unfussy outdoor and open-fire cooking should be. Maybe he and I truly share these common threads from my childhood that inspired us to enjoy this style of cooking so intensely. Or perhaps we both find our ancestral roots inescapably imbedded in our psyches despite our very different upbringings. Maybe I could even be nice to him over a glass of wine, or three. Just remember that you don’t need a beret or a cape or $44,000—no style of cooking is more simple or enjoyable. Make sure that you cook on an open fire at least once this summer. Go fishing. Go camping. Go foraging. Start a garden. Make a fire. Put a whole fish or a steak right on the searing-hot coals with your veggies. Yes, RIGHT ON THE COALS. Use a pan for finishing it off with some butter, herbs, onions and garlic. Do it with some friends and loved ones. You won’t regret it. Jason Michael Thomas owns Urban Awareness Gardens in the heart of downtown Indianapolis, where he elegantly prepares 100% locally farmed and foraged dinners in a private setting. He uses his regular television appearances and social media influence to educate others about the crucial importance of the sustainable food movement, and promotes a healthy lifestyle by teaching others why they should seek out the most natural and delicious local foods. JasonMichaelThomas.com.
8
edible INDY
Summer 2019
These old traditions are carved into the essence of who we are and remind us of our history of feasting around a fire, cooking and sharing the bounty of what we hunted and gathered with our trusted friends and family.
