Edible LA | No 15 by Edible LA

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Issue No. 15 Summer 2022

Sharing the Story of Local Food, Season by Season

What’s Next For Phenakite?

L.A. ICON CHEF MINH PHAN Member of Edible Communities

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N AT I O N W I D E S H I P P I N G

CONTENTS SUMMER

Features 14 NATURAL WINE 101 by Edan Lepucki 20 THE RADICAL ART OF THE PERFECT BITE: WHAT’S NEXT FOR PHENAKITE by Lisa Alexander 50 THE STATE OF THE DELI: OLD SCHOOL, NEW SCHOOL by Emma Kopelowicz

Departments 04

EDITOR’S NOTE

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

WHAT’S IN SEASON NOW

ON THE TOWN: AN EPIC L.A. TEQUILA CRAWL

EDIBLE EXPLORER: WILD OUTDOOR ADVENTURE IN UTAH

COOKING THE BOOKS WITH NOW SERVING LA

EDIBLE EXPLORER: A SANTORINI BOLT-HOLE

THE LAST BITE

ON THIS PAGE Minh Phan’s Forest Flora by Carolina Korman

ON THE COVER Minh Phan by Carolina Korman

EDITOR’S NOTE

Contributors Shauna Burke

@iamshaunaburke

Our art director and travel editor ditched the corporate office to become a classically trained chef and sommelier. She now spends her time writing, authoring plant-based cookbooks, and traveling with her family to experience the world through food.

Ken Concepcion @djgnocchi

Food for Thought

Ken is co-owner of Now Serving, a well-loved cookbook and culinary shop in Chinatown. Before becoming the co-owner with his wife and partner, Michelle Mungcal, he worked as a chef in the restaurant industry for nearly 20 years.

This is my first issue as Publisher and Editor-in-chief of Edible LA, and I couldn’t be more excited.

Carolina Korman

@carolinakormanphoto

I come from food-obsessed people. My father worked in chocolate, going all over the world buying cacao beans. My mom got bit by the Julia Child bug, cooking her way through Mastering the Art of French Cooking, with us as guinea pigs. Every summer, my father’s work took us to Europe, where my parents rented a little Citroën, and drove from Michelin restaurant to Michelin restaurant, with lots of getting lost in between. This was pre-GPS, the age of huge unintelligible maps, coffee-stained and unfurled in the front seat, and incomprehensibly cryptic road signs. Weirdly and amazingly, this gave me an appreciation and foundation in food, and somehow led me to this, helming a food magazine. And yes, I’m in love with the stories here. Take Minh Phan, our cover girl. With her restaurant, Porridge and Puffs, she showed up for us in the pandemic, leading a brigade of a team, mobilizing and pivoting and tapdancing to get us what we needed. Then she blew our minds with Phenakite where her food is smart, imaginative, delicious, comforting, and emblematic of our beautiful city, LA. And now, she’s doing it again with in incredibly exciting Chapter Three. Minh stands for a certain kind of female chef who’s balancing an artistic becoming that’s both fearless and challenging. Next the fantastic novelist Edan Lepucki dives into natural wines. With her inimitable New York Times bestselling voice, she sips and spits her way through a tasting at Kismet, and then attends a tipsy tasting class with Brooklyn sommelier and star-wine-mapmaker, James Sligh. And there’s more. Emma Kopelowicz examines where the deli is headed, new school versus old school. Shauna Burke explores fishing and deliciousness in the wilds of Utah. Ken Concepcion, of our favorite Now Serving LA bookstore, gives us a scrumptious roundup of cookbooks. And, for the last bite, a quest for the volcanic wines of Santorini, which leads us to a dinner on the edge of a caldera, the epicenter of Alfresco Summer itself. Happy reading, cooking and entertaining in the great Outdoors.

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Carolina’s PhD in Psychology and background in Fine Art translates into her images of local food. Born and raised in Buenos Aires, her work has also appeared in such publications as Angeleno, and she’s on the give-back team of LA’s most famous bake sale, And Gather for Good.

Edan Lepucki @edanlepucki

Edan is the New York Times bestselling author of the novels California and Woman No. 17 as well as the editor of Mothers Before: Stories and Portraits of Our Mothers as We Never Saw Them. Her nonfiction has appeared in such publications as the L.A. Times, the New York Times Magazine, Esquire, and The Cut.

Emma Kopelowicz @emmathejournalist

Emma, our social media manager and contributing writer, grew up in the test kitchen of her grandfather’s DTLA seafood restaurant, where she learned to appreciate intricate flavor combinations as well as to recognize the benefits of using fresh, local ingredients.

NO. 15

SUMMER 2022

Edible Communities James Beard Foundation 2011 Publication of the Year

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lisa Alexander ART DIRECTOR Shauna Burke DIRECTOR OF ADVERTISING Deborah Garcia deborah@ediblela.com SOCIAL MEDIA Emma Kopelowicz TRAVEL EDITOR Shauna Burke CONTRIBUTORS Lisa Alexander Shauna Burke Ken Concepcion Emma Kopelowicz Carolina Korman Edan Lepucki COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Carolina Korman

Edible LA© is published quarterly and distributed throughout Los Angeles County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

Thank you Los Angeles for your support! If you’d like your business to get in front of our L.A. audience, contact deborah@ediblela.com to secure a spot in our Fall 2022 issue which includes our popular Holiday Gift Guide!

Ways to support Edible LA Magazine: • Follow us on social media @EdibleLAMag • Subscribe to our e-newsletter at ediblela.com • Subscribe or give a gift of a print subscription • Advertise with us! @EdibleLAMag

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edibleLA’s

summer shopping guide SUMMER PRODUCE

YEAR-ROUND PRODUCE

SUMMER SEAFOOD

Apricots Artichokes Asparagus Avocados Basil Blackberries Blueberries Cabbage Celery Cherries Chiles Chives Cilantro Corn Cucumber Dill Eggplant Figs Grapefruit Grapes Green beans Green onions Lavender Limes Melons Mulberries Mustard greens Nectarines Peaches Plums and pluots Raspberries Strawberries Tomatillos Turnips Watermelon Yellow squash

Almonds Apples Arugula Bananas Beets Bell peppers Black-eyed peas Bok choy Broccoli Broccolini Carrots Cauliflower Chard Coconut Dandelion greens Edible flowers Garlic Kale Leeks Lemons Lettuce Mushrooms Onions Oranges Parsnips Pistachios Potatoes Radishes Snow peas Soft herbs Spinach Sprouts Walnuts Winter squash Yams

Halibut Rock fish King salmon Sardines Spot prawns Swordfish Albacore tuna White seabass Yellowtail

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YEAR-ROUND SEAFOOD Abalone Black cod Clams Oysters Rock crab Sanddabs Urchin

YEAR-ROUND GOODS Eggs Coffee Dairy Honey Olive oil Meats Potted herbs Preserves Pickles Grains

WHAT’S IN SEASON

Photo © Heather Gill

by Lisa Alexander

Nothing says summer and the outdoors like peaches, from its velvety skin, to that first bite of sweetness. To celebrate their arrival in our farmers’ markets, we asked two of L.A.’s keenest chefs what they make with this peach-y perfection. From two unusual salads to an irresistible shortcake, make these for a dinner under the stars with your favorite friends.

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WHAT’S IN SEASON

‘I am Local’ Grilled Peach and Asparagus Salad Café Gratitude’s Executive Chef Seizan Dreux Ellis In Café Gratitude’s Love is Served cookbook, Executive Chef Seizan Dreux Ellis gives us this gorgeous salad. “At the peak of Summer,” he says. “This makes for a beautiful entrée salad for lunch or a first course for dinner. It’s the ideal backdrop against which to showcase perfectly ripe peaches, but the grill will turn even a slightly green peach into a sweet, smoky nugget by caramelizing the sugars.” Serves 4

Ingredients Himalayan sea salt 4 large peaches 16 medium asparagus spears Extra-virgin olive oil for grilling 6 cups arugula 6 cups baby spinach 1 cup shaved fennel ¼ cup cashew mozzarella Spicy Pepitas for topping 1 cup Goji Chipotle Dressing 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds soaked for 4 hours overnight 1 tablespoon dried goji berries soaked for 4 hours overnight 1/3 cup fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 Medjool date, pitted ¾ teaspoon Himalayan sea salt ¼ teaspoon chipotle powder ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions Make the Dressing. 1.Drain and rinse the pumpkin seeds and goji berries 2.In a blender, combine the soaked pumpkin seeds and goji berries with the orange juice, lime juice, date, salt, and chipotle powder and blend until smooth. With the blender running on medium speed, slowly drizzle in the olive oil and blend until fully emulsified.

Café Gratitude Peach and Asparagus salad: photo from Café Gratitude

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Make the Salad. 1.In a medium pot over medium-high heat, bring 6 cups of lightly salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Once the water is at a rolling boil, blanch the asparagus for 3 minutes, until it’s bright green and tender but still crisp. Immediately transfer the asparagus to the ice water. Let the asparagus cool in the water for 1 minute before transferring it to a plate. Pat the asparagus dry with a paper towel and set aside.

2.Preheat an outdoor grill or stovetop grill pan to medium-high heat. 3.Cut the peaches into ¼ to ½ inch thick slices. Brush the peaches and asparagus with olive oil and arrange them on the grill. Cook until the peaches and asparagus have nice grill marks, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the peaches and asparagus from the grill and set aside. 4.In a large mixing bowl, toss together the arugula, spinach, and shaved fennel. Arrange the greens on a large serving plate and place the grilled peaches and asparagus on top. Add pieces of crumbled cashew mozzarella, a drizzle of the goji chipotle dressing, and a sprinkle of spicy pepitas.

WHAT’S IN SEASON Summer Fruit Salad with Peaches and Marcona Almonds by Suzanne Goin

Summer Fruit Salad with Peaches and Marcona Almonds This and the following recipes are excerpted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Excerpted by permission of Knopf, a division of Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. Serves 4

Ingredients 2 tablespoons finely diced shallot 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar 12 fresh figs, stems removed and cut in half 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 ripe nectarine 1 ripe peach 2 ripe plums 1/2 basket (about 1 cup) blackberries or Persian mulberries 8 ounces arugula, cleaned and dried 1/2 lemon, for juicing 2/3 cup Marcona almonds Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions Combine the shallot, vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl, and let sit 5 minutes. Using a mortar and pestle, pound three fig halves to a coarse purée. Transfer the fig purée to the shallot mixture, and whisk in the olive oil. Taste for balance and seasoning. Cut the nectarine, peach, and plums in half and remove the pits, and cut them into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Place the sliced fruit, remaining figs, and berries in a large bowl. Drizzle half of the vinaigrette over the fruit, and season with salt and pepper. Gently toss in the arugula, sprinkle in some more salt and pepper, and taste for seasoning, adding

more vinaigrette and a squeeze of lemon if needed. Arrange on a large chilled platter, and sprinkle the nuts on top

Cornmeal Shortcakes with Peaches, Mint and Soured Cream Ingredients 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 cup stone-ground cornmeal 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 cup granulated sugar 4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream Peaches and soured cream (see recipe)

Instructions Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and 3 heaping tablespoons sugar in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse about 10 times until the mixture is a coarse meal. With the machine running, quickly pour in 1 cup of cream. Stop the machine immediately when the dough starts to come together. (It is important not to... ...recipe continued on ediblela.com @EdibleLAMag

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ON THE TOWN

An Epic L.A.

By Emma Kopelowicz

Photo: the Frogtown favorite, Salazar; provided by White Oak Communications

Here are our favorite places when you want that tequila fix.

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ON THE TOWN

Tequila Crawl Bar Amá

Bar Flores

Chef-restauranteur Josef Centeno is the man responsible for turning Downtown’s unassuming Historic Core into one of the buzziest culinary hotspots in the city, and Bar Amá might just be his most personal venture to date. Inspired by the Tex-Mex cooking chef Centeno grew up on, this tiny cantina serves updated takes on casual bar fare alongside excellent tequila-infused cocktails. The mountainous “Super Nachos” piled with layers of salsa, gooey queso, and chopped jalapeños are a favorite. True regulars know that the off-menu made-to-order puffy tacos are the best companion for Bar Amá’s lasciviously spicy chili-lime “Nacho Vidal” cocktail, named after Spain’s most infamous porn star.

Stepping into Bar Flores’ bougainvillea covered back patio feels like entering a neighborhood hideout in Mexico City. Mismatched chairs, eclectic umbrellas, glowing orb-shaped lanterns and live music set the mood at this vibrant Echo Park hangout. Started as a pop-up, it now has a permanent home above the recently opened Lowboy and Adamae. While you might have to sift your way through a crowd of Silverlake residents to reach the stunning bar, you will be rewarded with fragrant citrus margaritas and Earl Grey-infused tequila tonics tasty (and strong) enough to convince you to order a full pitcher.

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ON THE TOWN

Bar Flores, Photo: Kevin Vu Kim

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Madre! While this Oaxacan restaurant offers a dazzling assortment of margaritas mixed with everything from sweet prickly pear liqueur to the slightly bitter house-made blue curaçao, you’re here for their staggering collection of mezcals. The bartenders have an encyclopedic knowledge of the nearly 400 bottles lining the bar’s shelves, so even if you do not consider yourself an expert, you won’t be led astray. Once you tell the bartender what you like, they’ll zip behind the bar to grab a handful of bottles for you to smell. After you’ve made your selection, the bartender will pour your pick into a traditional clay mug with a side of grapefruit and yes, dried crickets.

Gracias Madre Since opening its bright and airy doors back in 2014, this modern Mexican restaurant in the heart of West Hollywood has been a champion for sustainability and plant-based food. Gracias Madre’s eco-consciousness also extends to every single bottle displayed behind the bar. When it comes to curating their agave spirits, Gracias Madre is decidedly old school. While most brands rely on modern diffuser technology to efficiently produce their tequila, Gracias Madre only highlights independent producers and small-batch distillers. These use ancestral methods that go easy on Mother Nature and lose the chemicals. Maxwell Reis, the beverage director of GM’s WeHo location, has created a signature cocktail menu which showcases the craftsmanship of these ethically produced tequilas, from a Oaxacanstyle Old Fashioned to a zesty Paloma.

Salazar Whether you come to Salazar’s open-air patio for a casual after-work drink or a boozy Saturday evening dinner, this Sonoran-style joint in Frogtown hits the spot. Their desert-like outdoor space complete with cacti and colorful seating offers a sweet oasis from the Eastside’s elbow-to-elbow bars. Salazar’s extensive tequila list is impressive on its own, but if you prefer your libations mixed, Salazar’s no-frills margaritas will do the trick. Add a few tacos and a plate of Salazar’s grilled jumbo shrimp drizzled with smoky pico de gallo for the full boozy delicious effect. ■

Gifts that Give Back narrativefood.com @EdibleLAMag

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NATURAL HABITAT The Pleasures of Drinking Raw Wine BY EDAN LEPUCKI llustration by James Sligh

first fell in love with natural wine when I drank a glass of Grenache Gris by Berkeley-based Broc Cellars. During quarantine, I expanded my palate with the wine club selections from Tabula Rasa, a bar in Little Armenia. I liked the silty, unpredictable quality of these natural wines, sometimes smoky and challenging, and sometime refreshing and fun, pure pleasure machines. I may not be an educated wine drinker, but I’d like to be. I do know enough to know that the program at Kismet, a restaurant in Los Feliz, is spoken of with admiration, even reverence by those who are serious about wine. So one Friday afternoon, I went to speak with Kelsey Gray, Kismet’s wine director and assistant general manager, to see what I could learn. Kismet is a jewel box of a restaurant with blonde wood banquettes, handmade clay light fixtures, and a Middle Easterninspired menu glittering with California’s influence. Its food— 14

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Kismet photo credit: Joshua White

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rabbit for two, or the flaky lemon and pine nut pie—is filling yet light, ethereal yet grounded, the kind of place that serves vegetables nearly as fresh as the sunlight that fattened them. I’ve dined at Kismet on my birthday, and when I want to impress someone, and when I’ve had the kind of day that only labneh, crusty bread, and a glass of wine can cure. So to walk through the narrow door before they opened felt like stepping backstage at a concert hall. The lights were low, the patio tables and chairs stacked at the entrance, the cooks singing softly to themselves as they prepped that evening’s service. Here was a magic trick unfolding in slow motion, and I delighted in the access. Despite the debates swirling around the term, at its core, natural wine is simply wine that is produced with minimal intervention. Whereas conventional wine utilizes technology to insure stability and consistency of taste, natural winemakers allow native yeast to ferment their wines, and they don’t add enzymes, or filter out impurities. Natural wines introduce little to no sulfur at the bottling process. In the best case scenarios, these wines feel vibrant and alive, their flavors and textures nuanced and surprising, even revelatory; worst case, the wine is trendy despite—or because of—its vinegary funk. As we settled into a back booth at Kismet, bottles between us for tasting, Kelsey put it like this: “Natural wine can mean so many things. In many ways it means nothing. In many ways it’s a buzz word. Natural wine is a trend, for sure, but more importantly it points to ethics.” At Kismet, chefs Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson are concerned with the people behind the products they serve. They want to offer food and wine that are ethically and sustainably produced, not only environmentally speaking, but also in terms of the labor and the people involved. “When you buy from a small scale producer,” Kelsey said, “you have a narrowed lens that gets to the heart of the craft. It’s simple, and beautiful, and also more human.” Throughout our time together, Kelsey emphasized how important it was to Kismet that they acknowledge the people who grow the food and make the wine that ends up on their tables. Wine making, in particular, is especially challenging, and producing it with minimal intervention takes such hard work, knowledge, passion, and luck. Kelsey described the wild boars that recently destroyed a Californian winemaker’s vines, and the shipping and tariff heartaches for a winemaker in the country of Georgia. The droughts. The blights. “Natural wine is fragile and susceptible,” Kelsey said. “It should be approached with reverence.” At Kismet, wine is a pleasure, and the restaurant offers a breadth of offerings, from the esoteric to the people-pleasing, and at various price points. Kelsey is new to the position and she’s excited to find unknown wines to keep the list feeling, as she says, “electric.” I felt this electricity with our first tasting: a Deviner and Traminer blend from a winery in Slovakia called Slobodné Vinárstvo, run by two sisters who left their urban lives in Bratislava to make wine on their family estate. The wine had a little bit of skin contact, and it carried the tell-take funk of an orange wine—that little zing. As we tasted, Kelsey called it “fairylike” with a “core of intention” and “confident in itself.” I tasted the floral and lemony notes, but I was also struck by the wine’s volatile acidity. I decided it was a little too funky for me, though I was sure

that my husband, who loves all things bitter, from radicchio to IPAs, would go nuts for it. I asked Kelsey what she wanted people to feel from the wines at Kismet, and she said she likes to think about how wine can bring a certain mood or energy to the table. Maybe you’re after a vivacious, flirty feeling, or perhaps a wine that tastes more austere will bring a coy or restrained tone to the table. Merlot, for instance, has the potential to inspire “fun depravity’; the grape makes Kelsey think of being draped in fur robes by candlelight. I loved this image of romance, comfort, and decadence; more than that, I loved the idea that wine asks us to be poets, to use metaphor and simile, and to gesture toward fantasy. Sometimes, a wine lover’s flair for tasting notes—wet cement, say, or lemon frosting—can be a bit mystifying, maybe even alienating if you don’t taste anything of the sort. But free associating with Kelsey on the wine we shared was fun and exploratory; it felt personal, too, like there weren’t right or wrong answers, only perspectives and preferences. For Kelsey, wine isn’t merely a drink, it’s an experience, and she urges diners to lean into how a wine will make them feel. It’s a conversation. “Wines are charged,” Kelsey said. Another bottle we tasted was from La Clarine Farm in the Sierra Nevada Foothills, and this one was definitely speaking to me. La Clarine doesn’t plow, use herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers. This was a Viognier, a white wine that Kelsey explained is often used as a blending grape but is now being made as a single varietal, especially in California. Often Viognier can taste unctuous or waxy, but Kelsey said that it also has more body and thus helps with food pairing. Winemakers Hank Beckmeyer and Caroline Hoël age their Viognier “on the lees,” which means they don’t remove the dead yeast cells that remain in a wine after it’s fermented. This gives the wine a honeyed, nutty quality, imparting it with, as Kelsey described, “a savory streak of saline.” I tasted exactly that. I rarely drink white wine and, here I was, enamored with this Viognier, a word I’m still not confident pronouncing aloud. I imagined ordering a bottle to share with whomever was lucky enough to join me. I left Kismet longing to return once the lights were up and the music crooned from the speakers, a cloth napkin slung across my lap. When my glass of wine arrived, I would learn where it had come from, and I would acknowledge how much effort and love it took to get it to me. I would revel in the pleasure it provided, how it altered my evening. As Kelsey said, “Just knowing that one person poured so much care and time into bringing this wine to our table in Los Angeles—what a gift.” And, yet, in this age, there’s also a case to be made for staying in. With his remote tastings centered around a particular theme, sommelier and educator James Sligh of The Children’s Atlas of Wines provides a compelling reason to put on your sweats and uncork a few bottles from the comfort of your own home. I signed up for his class called New Americans, featuring three bottles by young producers from Baja, Mexico, Wisconsin, and the Sierra Foothills, respectively. For his classes, Sligh draws wine maps and creates a playlist of songs inspired by the class’s theme. (This one included songs by David Bowie and Lizzo, among others, which I’m still playing in my car.) He also includes pairing suggestions, @EdibleLAMag

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from a snack idea, such as braesola or tapenade, to full meal ideas, to a “bodega pairing”—he’s based in Brooklyn, after all. That’s how, on a cool Saturday evening in spring, my husband and I left my mother in charge of our kids and headed downstairs to our shared office with bags of sour cream potato chips and a slab of oozy cheese, ready to try some wine with strangers on Zoom. Like Kismet, the Children’s Atlas of Wine program is interested in small winemakers and telling their stories. Sligh is especially interested in shining a light on underrepresented regions, advocating for winemakers who might have been previously left out of the winemaking tradition. When we discussed Mexican wine, for instance, he explained that wine had been made in Baja for centuries, but when gold was discovered up north, the money and mainstream wine industry went with it, leaving this region underrepresented in the narrative about west coast wine. As with my conversation at Kismet, learning the story about each bottle was as revelatory as tasting it. Sligh started our class by saying that while a glass of wine won’t save the world, “it can be a window into the things we care about and all that can save it.” He ended our meeting by saying that wine shouldn’t be aspirational or obligatory. The evening was inspiring and tipsy. The fifteen or so other participants hailed from across the country, and as a group we admired and discussed the color of the wines, smelled them, and tasted, focusing on texture and acidity. Sligh is an enthusiastic and gregarious teacher, who informed as much as entertained. I laughed when he said, “It’s the tiny smell of death that makes a wine delicious,” and had to agree He never intimidated, even as he provided a history/agriculture lesson on why hybrid wines are so maligned in Europe. He described the grenache from Bichi winery in Mexico as having a “chewing” quality, and pointed out that for some, the zero-sulfur red might be “too spiky.” Not for me; I loved its slightly barnyardy depth.

SIP ON THIS

On this and previous page, scenes from the Raw Wine fair, founded by Isabelle Legeron, bottom left. Photos by Carolina Korman

The St. Pepin by American Wine Project, produced in the Driftless Area, a midwestern region that includes southwestern Wisconsin, provided an opportunity to talk about climate change. As the planet heats up and unpredictable weather events make growing grapes as challenging as ever, relatively new hybrids, like St. Pepin, which was developed in the eighties in Minnesota, are often heartier, and thrive in the landscapes they were created for. James explained how many new winemakers, like Erin Rasmussen of American Wine Project, are figuring out what’s unique to their regions, and making wine that wants to grow in that place, without additives. Rather than bend the earth to their will, these winemakers are working in harmony with the planet. It occurred to me that making natural wine was about listening to the land and the grapes, and paying close attention to every element. By tasting wine in this way, I was in turn doing my own

paying attention, a kind of deep noticing, a recognition of the sacred. Like Kelsey Gray at Kismet, James Sligh reminded us how “a thousand tiny decisions go into winemaking,” and that any of these bottles surviving, and tasting as great as they did, was miraculous. That evening, my husband and I sipped from our glasses, and compared our responses, and ate our chips down to dust. We absorbed history lessons, culture lessons, chemistry lessons. And we had fun. I remain an unseasoned wine drinker, but after these two tastings, I feel emboldened to try more bottles, and figure out what I like, and why. To sit with a wine, and acknowledge where it came from—an entire history in a glass—and revel in its charged, even magical, atmosphere. In this way, each sip feels alive. ■ @EdibleLAMag

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The Radical Art of the Perfect Bite L.A. Icon Minh Phan Redefines Fine Dining and Tells Us What’s Next BY LISA ALEXANDER PHOTOS BY CAROLINA KORMAN

inh Phan thinks of her life in chapters. First, she and her staff surrendered to service with her restaurant, Porridge and Puffs, pivoting, tap dancing, and performing feats of magic to feed us through the pandemic. “It was our job,” she says. “And it was what the community demanded of us…you could sit it out, but I wasn’t going to.” Phenakite, her Michelin-starred restaurant experience at the Second Home co-working space in Hollywood, was Chapter Two. It treated us to food that was intentional, missionaware and cerebral, as well as tasty and delicious, without which, the others won’t fly. It was also named LA Times 2021 Restaurant of the Year. Now that the Phenakite residency at Second Home is closed, we’ve all been wondering what’s next for Minh Phan. When I learned I could meet and talk to her—elusive as one our mountain lions but, just the same, very there—I couldn’t have

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been more excited. Forget that she’s an LA icon, the woman intrigued me, and besides, she’s an immensely talented and imaginative chef. On a recent Sunday morning—sun shining, parrots wheeling—I find myself in front of Minh, unadorned, who cocks her head as she listens, and quite literally leans in. Right away you can tell she likes to think out of the box. She takes my questions and turns them around, observing from every angle, before she holds them up to the light. She’s always been in search, she tells me, of the perfect bite. When she was just a baby, she discovered the beauty of dipping her grilled cheese into tomato soup. Then she figured out how to make tomato soup creamier by adding her glass of milk. She also had an incredible mom. “I’ve asked her,” Minh says. “And she goes, ‘you’re just like you. There’s nothing anyone can tell you what to do. You’ll just do it anyway…It’s not like you murdered or hurt anyone. You just did insanely crazy things.” And then Minh smiles, which she does a lot. Speaking to her, you get the sense that she’s smart, determined, generous, brilliant and possessed of a five-star unbelievably magical palate, though she protests, “With that, I just take my time.” I learn there are other inimitable things about Minh. When she goes out to eat, her plate is always clean. Coming from war-time parents, she hates waste more than anything. Notes on her menu say, “this stem jam was made from the trimmings of fruits and herbs we used throughout this meal.” At Phenakite, she’s actively questioning every single element of fine dining. Though revolution takes elbow grease. She doesn’t understand how anyone would want anything less than perfection. It’s art. Ephemeral but, yes, food is art. It’s selfexpression. It’s communication. It needs to be right. Though, to be fair, it’s still all a little abstract. Take her website, with no reservation button, only a mailing list and a mission statement on one economical page: “A rare mineral that forms into gems under extreme pressure and conditions, our namesake Phenakite reminds us that food is beyond animal and plants, taking into account terroir, minerals, and the exchange of energy between earth and atmosphere as well as eons and epochs of stories. Our tasting menu takes a journey of the land, sea, and air, juxtaposing introspection, expression and transformation.” “For a seed to become a plant,” Minh says. “Something edible, it’s taken a very long journey to get here. At its most basic, someone saved the seed. It could have been transported in someone’s pocket. (At Phenakite), we’re anthropologically looking at how something got here. The earth has been here for a really long time, and what has been grown (close to something else) really affects the flavor. If you’re tasting something grown next to the sea, there’s epochs and eons of salt. Its minerality can be very different than if you grew something in a place with olive groves, or a place that has been growing dates…I think people think about terroir for wine, but not food.” She cares deeply about transformation too—that moment solid turns to liquid or even gas—when she decides what goes onto a plate.

“The biomimicry of how plants work,” she says. “That metaphor works for human beings too.” So everything on the plate is symbolic and, metaphorical as well as seasonal and seasonally delicious. She hyper-focuses on relationships between ingredients, adding context and nuance. She gives us seared swordfish, baby lotus, jicama-apricot, watermelon rind+ passionfruit pickles, chrysanthemum smoked eucalyptus and pink peppercorn leaves. She pairs satsuma potatoes with rose geranium pickles and jujube and cranberry braised short ribs. But perhaps her most radical move yet is to separate hospitality from art. With hospitality, the customer is always right. At Phenakite, it’s all about the dialogue. The hospitality is still there, and generously so, but it’s an invitation into an experiential space that’s wholly hers. Our culture seems more and more defined by the need to personalize everything. You can think of it as the Starbucks Effect. There, you cannot only have fancy coffee just like in Europe (before that coffee came in exactly two flavors, decaf or black), but you can have it exactly as you want—extra hot, extra sugar, half caf, and on and on in a cup with your name on it, even though it’s misspelled. This obsession has rippled out to every single thing in our lives; now almost everything in our culture is customizable. But Minh’s restaurant is not that. At Phenakite, you can’t say ‘hold the salt.’ Because if fine dining is indeed art, why would you change it? Would you go to a museum and tell the security guard to put a little more red on that Basquiat? Payment and the transactional nature of the whole business matters here too. Minh wants to collapse the space between art and commerce, another radical idea. She removes the option of tipping, so it’s no longer the customer’s responsibility to reward the staff. It’s up to the restaurant to take care of its own by charging a fair price relative to the work, ingredients and skill. “I think, from the diner’s point of view, food is so transactional,” she says. “If you don’t like something, I don’t give you your money back.” There’s no set menu either. ““We’re here to bring you into this experience and transport you, to have you understand a little bit of what we do, and for you to have this amazing experience.” Which doesn’t mean there are no parameters, like people have babysitters and allergies. She understands it’s a process. All this puts her in the position of balancing two wildly different things, being an artist and running a business, which she does well, though it can bring with it mountains of stress. Minh relies on the process, the revising, the editing, the trial and error. It can be frustrating, and that’s why everyone she works with on her team has to a mature thinker, which they are. She also still feels a responsibility to teach, to channel all the young jazzy energy that shows up at her kitchens, to give them tools, show them the way. And she worries about her community. She doesn’t want her art to be exclusive, and yet she knows parts of it are. She’ll tackle that soon. For now, Minh is a proud Gen X-er, feeling strong and joyously challenged, eager for the next step. She’s in that bridge

“We’re here to bring you into this experience and transport you”

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period, full of anticipation and jitters, before her top-secret mind-blowing next chapter. After Porridge and Puffs, which was all about service, and the first Phenakite, which was about rethinking fine dining and letting her imagination run wild on the plate, in Chapter Three, Chef Minh Phan is leaning into her art. It’s exciting and deeply cool. The new Phenakite will be in Ace Mission Studios, a 28,000 foot space in Boyle Heights, and part of an immersive art show called A Forest For the Trees. Chef Minh Phan’s official name for her dining experience is Phenakite’s Summer Season in the Forest, and—in my favorite Narnia-like bit—it will be an ephemeral immersive art experience reachable only through a secret portal. According to Minh, the experience will include an exclusive tour of artist Glenn Kaino’s mind-expanding, visual and sound landscapes. Her Summer Season in the Forest will consist of edible art installations using natural culinary materials, her approach feminine and intimate, “expressing ephemerality and urgency through touch, taste, smell and dialogue.” Minh sees LA as not only the modern city we know, but a land “long stewarded by the people of Tovaangar, built on the backs of diasporic immigrants in recent times, and occupied by colonizers, settlers and natives.” She uses native ingredients, like toyon berries and morel mushrooms, and collaborating with first peoples will be an important part of the work. The new Phenakite debuts this month, in July. In addition to Summer in the Forest, the total experience, Minh’s more casual take on a tea house will be offered for those who visit A Forest For the Trees. From Wednesday through Friday, one show a night, Minh Phan will be adding every color, tasting every taste, thinking deeply about sociology and anthropology and terroir, her every faculty zeroed in on that perfect next bite. ■

Tickets for Phenakite’s Summer Season in the Forest will be available via Tock. Check out their Instagram for further details. Tickets for only the show are available at aforestla.com.

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Photo: A summer harvest dinner at the farm; provided by The Lodge at Blue Sky, Auberge Resorts Collection.

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Out of a Clear

Blue Sky BY SHAUNA BURKE

A summer road trip to The Lodge at Blue Sky, Auberge Resorts Collection, in Park City, Utah opened up a world of outdoor activities that immersed our whole family in the stunning surrounding nature—and offered a much-needed unplugging from L.A. life.

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lexander Creek burbles through the property and into the woods just behind the charming creek houses, and I come to a handful of hiking trails where I pause to whip out my trusty trail map and attempt to make a small choice that will prescribe my daily exploration. I keep trying to catch a glimpse of the moose family that supposedly hangs around the property, but no such luck yet, and, with my husband and infant son relaxing back at the lodge, I’m finally able to just turn off my mind. In L.A., the trails are often crowded, littered with the noise of friends chatting, music blaring from a backpack, or traffic in the distance. Here, it’s nothing but the sounds of nature. And it’s more meditative than any sound bath, hot yoga class, or day at the beach back home—here, it’s a return to the true outdoors. Park City, Utah, known as a world-class ski resort town and home to the annual Sundance Film Festival, is a wildly popular winter getaway for many west coasters, but heli-hiking, clay shooting, fly-fishing, trail rides, axe throwing, mountaintop yurt private dining, High West Distillery whiskey tastings, and complimentary morning yoga in the mountains are just a small part of my argument for preferring the warm-weather months at The Lodge at Blue Sky, Auberge Resorts Collection. The winding drive up to the lodge took us through an unassuming neighborhood in Wanship, which I later learn is home to Gracie’s Farm and Saving Gracie Equine Healing Foundation—where you’ll go for organic farm school, the property’s sumptuous summer harvest dinners, and visit the many rescue horses and other animals—and up and up past the distillery, and over to the lodge, which felt a world away from the typical resort town vibe. I didn’t immediately realize the awe and wonder we’d experience at Blue Sky until we woke up to the stunning mountain views the morning after our arrival—then, I knew, we were in a magical, catch-you-by-surprise kind of place. The switch next to the bed automatically opened up the curtains covering our floor-to-ceiling windows, without any unnecessary early-morning exertion for us. When we were ready, it was off to the nearly endless adventure on offer—a huge list of experiences to choose from, for both children and adults, in a stellar program curated by Henry Hudson, who oversees all things adventure at Blue Sky. I first wandered the property with Jessica Cook, director of sales and marketing, who tells me about the beautiful history of the property. Mike and Barb Phillips kept the 3,500 acre ranch as a weekend retreat for years, and eventually partnered with Auberge Resorts to create what is now The Lodge at Blue Sky and share it with the rest of the world, as a sort of love letter to the surrounding nature, a place for adventure, and a true retreat. Barb’s real passion project, Saving Gracie Equine Healing Foundation, named after her first rescue horse, is now home to rescue cows, chickens, goats, dogs, and cats as well, which guests are welcome to 28

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Left (top) and below (right): Learn the tricks of organic farming from head farmer Lynsey Gammon during classes, tours, and the many harvest dinners on offer this season; Below (left): James Beard Award-winning executive chef Galen Zamarra at The Lodge at Blue Sky.

“I didn’t immediately realize the awe and wonder we’d experience at Blue Sky until we woke up to the stunning mountain views the morning after our arrival—then, I knew, we were in a magical, catchyou-by-surprise kind of place.”

visit, along with the many educational opportunities at neighboring Gracie’s Farm. The scent of sage keeps wafting under my nose as I meander the property—the same wild sage that Joe Ogdie, general manager, forages for every year and is turned into an essential oil that ends up in all their in-room bath products. This is a place where there is a sense of meaningful connection with the earth and Blue Sky’s environmental initiatives really are a step above the rest: no single-use plastics, their mineralrich bath salts are sourced from the Great Salt Lake, they have their own wastewater treatment facility, they source much of their produce from their regenerative farm, and all of the stone in the rooms, building construction, and landscaping are sourced from a quarry twelve miles down the road. The rooms and suites are all built into the natural contours of the land, even the spa and earth suites have living roofs that feature native grasses and wildflowers. Everywhere I go here, it’s a “one with nature” philosophy. Later, I meet with James Beard Award-winning executive chef Galen Zamarra of YUTA, the signature restaurant at Blue Sky, to chat about how he keeps his menu interesting. He tells me it’s “hard to move totally away from [Rocky Mountain lodge] cuisine”—bison, venison, and the like—and I nod and laugh because all my husband could talk about was needing to try the bison NY strip steak on YUTA’s dinner menu. Zamarra tells me that, since the resort is still so new, he’s “still building the culinary program” and nurturing @EdibleLAMag

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Private fly fishing, in waters ranging from Blue Ribbon Rivers, challenging mountain streams, remote alpine lakes, and stocked ponds; Below: Saddle up for a true equestrian journey through the mountains, meadows, valleys and creeks at Blue Sky with one of the many equine adventures available.

a sense of place. He’d like to incorporate “more native and indigenous foods,” he says, and passionately tells me about the prehistoric Four Corners potato—taking its name from the Four Corners region where Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico meet— which indigenous farmers helped to protect and cultivate again. The Native American-led non-profit Utah Diné Bikéyah does significant work to protect indigenous communities and their food cultures. They run a Traditional Foods Program (visit utahdinebikeyah.org/traditional-foods-program to learn more) which, according to their website, aims to preserve the natural resources of ancient Native American lands and promote indigenous food preservation among Tribes living adjacent to the Bears Ears National Monument. Re-learning about indigenous ingredients, like the Four Corners potato, is a huge step in shining a spotlight on these ancient foods and, hopefully, finding them on more local menus. The food at YUTA is far removed from typical hotel food—it’s thoughtful, playful, and earnestly inspired by its surroundings. I started with the signature cocktail—because how could I not?— which is lovingly dubbed The Horse Thief (find the recipe on page 33), inspired by owner Barb Phillips, and pairs tequila with a kick of ginger, fresh blackberries, and lime juice. There were many standouts from our dinners, but chef ’s signature dish, the ahi tuna with brown butter and crispy shallots (recipe on opposite page), is popular for very good reason—and we ordered this more than once. Don’t miss the tender chivecrusted short rib, paired with a glass of Chappellet’s Mountain Cuvée, or the bass crudo atop Gracie’s Farm watermelon radishes. 30

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EDIBLE EXPLORER

Tuna l’Occidental The award-winning Tuna l’Occidental by executive chef Galen Zamarra of YUTA—the signature restaurant of The Lodge at Blue Sky—is inspired by his time cooking at the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Japan, where he learned the art of sushi. He’s created his own style by flash cooking the tuna with a mix of brown butter and presenting it with fried shallots and a citrus marinade. Serves 4

Ingredients

1 pound #1 grade yellowfin tuna, center cut ½ pound unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes 4 shallots, peeled 2 cups micro-green mix fleur de Sel chive oil citrus marinade (recipe on ediblela.com)

6. 7. 8. 9.

process. It must reach a high temperature to sear the tuna. When the butter is hot and brown, slowly pour it over the entire surface of the tuna. It should turn gray on contact. Do not let any of the solids get on the tuna. Dump off any excess butter when done. Dress the plate with a small cordon of chive oil. Place the tuna on the center of the plate, be sure it is not dripping with butter. Sauce the tuna with citrus marinade. Season with a pinch of fleur de sel. Garnish with microgreens and shallots.

Method 1. 2. 3. 4.

Remove any skin, bloodline or any fibrous sections of the tuna. Slice tuna into ¼-inch slices. Refrigerate until needed. Slice the shallots into thin rings. Gently fry them until golden brown and crispy. Drain on a towel and season with salt. To serve: Portion one layer of tuna into a circle about 6 inches in diameter on a metal tray. Season each piece with salt and pepper. Heat a small amount of butter, about 2 cups, until noisette. Stirring constantly. IMPORTANT: the butter must remain hot, do not pull the butter back during the

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Top left: Creek House accommodations at The Lodge at Blue Sky; Bottom right: An educational whiskey tasting at High West Distillery at The Lodge at Blue Sky. Tour the distillery to learn the history of whiskey in the West.

Blue Sky’s Upcoming Summer Harvest Dinners Shoots & Greens | Tuesday, July 14 Featuring baby lettuces, peppery arugula, tender herbs, and of course, snap peas and pea shoots Garlic | Tuesday, July 26 Featuring scapes, uncured raw green garlic, cured and stored garlic and fermented garlic Summer Tomatoes | Tuesday, August 23 Featuring short season tomatoes grown at high altitude Baby Roots | Tuesday, September 6 Featuring several varieties of hearty and healthy root vegetables like radishes, carrots and more

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Gracie’s Farm is the property’s female-led regenerative farm, about a ten minute drive down the mountain, and is continuing to expand their operation so they can provide more produce to the lodge—eventually maybe even chicken eggs and honey too. For now, the farm is home to the summer harvest dinners, surrounded by the beauty of the animals and nature, each featuring a different ingredient and chef. They run a farm stand too, during summer months, and I was lucky enough to meet the hens and grab some eggs to take home with me and sneak a taste of their radishes and greens like arugula, mizuna, and baby kale. Desperately seeking one last adventure before getting the car loaded for our road trip back to L.A., we were able to cram in a private fly-fishing experience on Provo River with one of their talented guides. It was picture perfect in every way, with waders and a cute canine companion to boot. If that isn’t enough solitude, guests also have the option of taking a private helicopter over the Uintas mountain range to fish in remote alpine lakes, rivers, and streams, complete with a lakeside picnic. I look around and know I won’t experience peace like this for a while, and try to take in one last breath of mountaintop air before closing the car door for good. I’m actually glad we drove—I realize I need the time to ease back into city life. I wonder when I’ll be back, or where else I might feel so luxuriated in the middle of such a stunning natural landscape. ■

The Horse Thief

EDIBLE EXPLORER

Blue Sky’s Signature Cocktail Recipe Inspired by owner Barb Phillips, this intensely refreshing summer cocktail is perfect for al fresco dinner parties, watching the waves crash on the beach, or just an excuse for an early-evening tipple after a long day outdoors.

Ingredients 1 1/2 ounces tequila reposado 1/2 oz High West Campfire whiskey 1/2 oz green Chartreuse 1/2 oz ginger syrup 1/2 oz fresh lime juice 3-5 fresh blackberries Tajin, for the rim

Instructions Tip half the rim of a rocks glass into a bit of lime juice or ginger syrup, then into Tajin. Set aside. In a shaker, muddle the blackberries with ginger syrup. Add remaining ingredients and fill with ice. Shake until cold. Strain into a Tajin-rimmed rocks glass over a big ice cube.

to savor the extraordinary.

In Monterey County, some experiences are best enjoyed at a slower pace. It’s easy to get lost in a stunning vista, the creativity of a dish, or a good conversation with great friends. So, come explore the flavor of this place. At your own speed.

SeeMonterey.com/Now @EdibleLAMag

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IS PLASTIC WASTE THE COST OF EATING? STO RY

E M I LY

PAY N E

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DA N I E LLE

N I E R E N B E R G

About a year ago, a comedian—not a scientist or environmentalist—enlightened consumers about a product they use every day that is harmful to the planet. “A lot less plastic winds up getting recycled than you might think,” John Oliver said on that particular episode of Last Week

recycling bins or items that are not clean—the most common culprit is food residue.

Tonight, which has now been viewed more than 4 million times.

Further, recycling facilities are often underfunded and over-

In the United States and Canada, less than 9 percent of plastics

whelmed. In 2018, China stopped importing most plastic waste

is recycled. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection

from both the U.S. and Canada. That ban upended recycling

Agency (EPA), packaging comprises the largest percent of U.S.

systems that relied on exports, and neither country has been

plastic waste. Since the pandemic disrupted curbside pickup

successful in building a domestic recycling market.

and put more emphasis on single-use products, especially in food service, these numbers have only worsened. Consumers often see plastic food packaging as the cost of eating: tubs of salad greens; clear clamshells for berries; and even, pre-wrapped cucumbers and other produce. And while many plastics are recyclable, they still end up in landfills, oceans and, ultimately, in our bodies. Now, however, in an exciting wave of innovation, businesses and entrepreneurs are rethinking how to package food.

For example, Stamford, Connecticut made $95,000 selling recyclables in 2017; after 2018, it paid $700,000 for removal. And Bakersfield, California, earned $65 per ton from recyclables; it now pays $25 a ton to get rid of them. The recycling system is also wrought with environmental injustice. “Recycling facilities are predominantly built in marginalized communities, in part due to the traditional invisibility of and bias against low-income communities of color and Indigenous peoples,” says Nilda Mesa, director of urban sustainability and equity planning at Columbia University’s Center for

RE A L LY RE CYC L E D? “Much food packaging is made from plastic, and most plastics

Sustainable Urban Development. Amid pressure to transform the recycling system, experts are

are never recycled—though the plastics industry has long worked

advocating for circularity in food packaging. Circular systems pre-

to convince us otherwise,” says Dianna Cohen, co-founder and

vent waste from reaching recycling facilities by implementing strat-

CEO of the Plastic Pollution Coalition.

egies to reuse and repurpose plastics already created. A shift in this

One-quarter of packaging reaching recycling facilities is

direction requires the food industry to rethink packaging materials

contaminated and, thus, sent to landfills, the EPA estimates.

and to consider what the reuse and disposal of plastics (eventually)

Contamination can occur from contact with non-recyclables in

would look like, especially for packaging that is compostable.

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“The real game changer will be when people buy less plastic, reuse what they have and minimize what goes in the trash and into recycling,”

CO M P OSTA BL E I S CO MP L I C AT E D Unilever and PepsiCo include compostable packaging as part of their strategies to reduce waste. Chipotle and Sweetgreen use

“Along with the innovation in more sustainable packaging, pricing has come down dramatically, and it’s only a small premium to conventional or fossil fuel-based packaging now,” Gailmor says. Ecovative’s technology upcycles farming and forestry byproducts

compostable material for take-out meals. Compostables are made of plant-based materials—corn, starch or sugarcane—unlike plastics derived from petroleum. Compostable packaging isn’t always sustainable, though. Without the right infrastructure, pricing and awareness, compostables can contribute to the food packaging waste problem.

through mycelium to create plastic-free and home-compostable products for the food, leather, beauty, foam and packaging industries. Gailmor is hopeful that more options can be available at large scale as consumer demand rises. “If you’d asked me two years ago, I wouldn’t have been as enthu-

“Compostable is often referring to packaging that must be

siastic,” says Gailmor, “but I am very confident now.” Consumer

transported to an industrial composting facility—which it often

demand drives innovation, lower prices and more sustainable op-

isn’t, and just ends up in a landfill versus recycled,” says Emily

tions for small businesses like Brass Roots, but the onus can’t be only

Stucker, vice president of menu innovation and product integrity

on eaters.

at Farmer’s Fridge. This is, in part, because composting facilities are not available nationally. Mixing compostables into curbside bins can contaminate recycling streams. Throwing compostables in the trash gets them sent to landfills, where they emit methane. When proper infrastructure and education are in place, processing compost can be sustainable, especially given that munici-

T H E POWE R O F PRO CU RE ME NT One powerful solution is for government and institutional procurement practices to help reduce or eliminate plastic packaging. “We can do this on an individual level and also need to support systems shifts, from our schools to our workplaces to policy and legislation,” says Cohen. San Francisco, California, was one of the first cities to make a

palities pay for waste processing by weight. “A municipality that can figure out how to minimize its organic

zero-waste commitment in 2003—it diverts 80 percent of its waste

waste stream will be saving funds over the long run, as well as cutting

from landfills. Vendors use either compostable or recyclable contain-

greenhouse gas emissions and producing material that will enrich

ers, and every event must offer recycling and composting. The city

soils… It’s a win all over,” says Mesa. But only if they can afford it.

also requires individuals and businesses to separate waste into recy-

“We would have loved to be in all compostable packaging from

clable, compostable and trash bins.

the beginning, but for a small company starting out, pricing for

“Moving away from single-serve meals and snacks is probably the

small runs and guaranteed shelf life for new products with un-

most impactful way to reduce packaging waste in an institutional

known velocity can be prohibitive,” says Logan Farley, chief operat-

setting,” says the Center for Good Food Purchasing, a nonprofit that

ing officer at Brass Roots, a plant-based snack company based in

aims to use procurement to build a more equitable food system. According to the Center, buying bulk items can help institu-

New Orleans, Louisiana.

tions reduce both packaging waste and food waste—a win for tight IF T HE P RI C E I S R I GH T

budgets, too.

Food businesses consider pricing, shelf life and quality of pre-

For example, many elementary school districts are required to

sentation for packaging, and it’s been cheaper to choose plastic

serve milk which is distributed in single-serve cartons. Students take

packaging. Brass Roots Founder Aaron Gailmor believes the tide

a carton, drink some or none of it and throw it in the trash. But

is turning, however.

when the Austin Independent School District in Texas transitioned

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to bulk milk, they reduced so much waste that it was able to transi-

NatureSeal coating combines vitamins, salts and minerals to extend

tion to all organic milk for the same cost of single-serve cartons.

the shelf life of sliced fruits for up to 28 days.

Other institutions are increasing demand for sustainable food

Meanwhile, Notpla aims to eliminate the need for single-use

services—within the Center’s partner institutions, there has been a

plastic bottles. Its condiments and water sachets are made from

more than 30 percent increase in environmentally sustainable pur-

seaweed, which can be composted or actually eaten. And Sway’s

chasing over the last few years.

seaweed packaging integrates seamlessly with existing machinery, eliminating the costs for manufacturers.

LEA D I N G T H E WAY

Gupta-Fonner’s waste-free delivery service aims to do the fun-

Meanwhile, some of the largest industry players are tackling packaging and plastic waste internally.

damental work of building a circular supply chain from the ground up. For her, waste is an issue of design. “Linear supply chains are not

In 2021, Driscoll’s diverted more than 10 million pounds of

designed for this,” says Gupta-Fonner.

packaging from landfills. The company’s circular clamshell initiative

Designing the infrastructure for circularity—a system that in-

requires packaging suppliers to incorporate recycled clamshells back

herently limits waste—can create an easy and affordable choice for

into new clamshells.

all eaters.

Clover Sonoma released the first fully plant-based milk carton in 2022. Meanwhile, Danone aims to make every piece of packaging reusable, recyclable or compostable by 2025.

PACKAG E LE SS E AT ING There’s no silver bullet to solving the food packaging crisis. It’s

This focus on waste reduction can drive investment in better sorting infrastructure, reducing widespread contamination and making recycling easier for all.

complex and requires both top-down solutions and bottom-up changes by consumers and businesses. “The real game changer will be when people buy less plastic, reuse

“Private industry has the opportunity to create the demand to kickstart or revive strong and stable recycling end markets for the

what they have and minimize what goes in the trash and into recycling,” says Mesa.

circular economy, and we hope more brands and manufacturers will

Cohen recommends prioritizing unpackaged food. Whole

step up to the design and sourcing challenge,” says Camille Herrera,

Foods, Sprouts and co-ops allow customers to purchase bulk food

packaging development and sustainability manager at Driscoll’s.

in reusable containers, while zero-waste shops are becoming more

More than 70 brands have committed to the One Step Closer to Zero Waste Packaging campaign, which launched in January 2022. It aims to improve infrastructure, labeling and the responsibility of producers.

common across the country. And farmers’ markets offer a way to avoid plastics in grocery. Kroger partnered with TerraCycle to test a reusable packaging program in 25 Fred Meyer stores. Customers will be able to pur-

The campaign also supports the Break Free from Plastic Pollu-

chase products from brands like Arbor Teas, Nature’s Heart and Na-

tion Act. It mandates reduced production of a variety of materials,

ture’s Path in reusable containers that they can return to be cleaned

including plastic, and requires producers of packaging, containers

and reused.

and food service products to boost recycling and composting efforts.

If unpackaged foods or reusable containers aren’t available, Co-

Companies that fundamentally change the way they think about

hen says to choose easily recyclable materials like paper, glass and

packaging, rather than simply swapping plastics for another single-

metal. Consumers can also look for products with instructions on

use material, can build true circularity.

how to dispose of their packaging.

“To make any kind of single-use packaging including composta-

“If you want true systemic change, it means taking a stand against

bles, you’re using precise raw materials, energy and water,” says

things that derail the broader conversation, just like you take a stand

Anukampa Freedom Gupta-Fonner, co-founder and CEO of Spr-

for the organizations that are actually solving the problem,” says Gup-

ingEats.com, an online grocery store achieving zero-waste delivery

ta-Fonner.

from farm to table.

There also is the need for a cultural shift. “When you acknowledge that there are resources, natural elements and actually pieces

Z ERO PAC KAGI N G

of real life and habitats that went into making this packaging,” says

The best way to reduce packaging waste, though, is by using no

Gupta-Fonner, “then reuse is compassion.”

packaging at all. Apeel makes plant-derived coatings that growers, suppliers and retailers use to keep produce fresh two to three times longer. And

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Emily Payne is Food Tank’s copy editor, and Danielle Nierenberg is the president and co-founder of Food Tank.

For more on this story, visit ediblecommunities.com

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COOKING THE BOOKS

SOME OF THIS SEASON'S

MOST DELICIOUS READS curated by Ken Concepcion, co-owner of DTLA’s

he best of this Spring’s new cookbooks effortlessly transport, rekindle kitchen aspirations, declare identity and preserve family treasures. With a bumper crop of new titles focused on food and cooking, it was a real challenge to select some of our favorites at the shop. Here are several that should find a home on your shelves and in your kitchen. In her cinematic yet intimate On the Himalayan Trail, British-Indian celebrated chef and food writer, Romy Gill, whisks us away to the breathtaking vistas and astonishing flavors of the otherworldly regions of Kashmir and Ladakh. In a banner season for books on regional Indian cooking, Gill over-achieves in these pages, fostering the delicate balance of cataloging the elegance of the cuisine while providing peak culinary travelogue material. Simply prepared, but with a technician’s eye for execution, Gill guides us thoughtfully through a heady Muslim variation of rogan josh, an aromatic lamb dish electrified by turmeric, shallots, and cockscomb flowers. Yes, momos, the beloved steamed dumplings of Ladakh, are also here— plumped with a juicy stuffing of vegetables and coriander, bundled in chapati flour and brightened with chili sauce at the table. But, as with

so much of Indian cookery, Gill’s ingenuity shines brightest with her love of vegetables. The Tamatar Te Wangun (eggplants cooked with tomatoes; recipe on page 45) may deceive with its one-pot ease and brief method, but it’s a clinic in technique and spice. Rife with ginger, cumin, and asafoetida powder, it elevates the powerful umami of the fried eggplant with deeply-flavored tomatoes. Among the yabba-dabba-doo-inducing sights of beef short ribs, bark-burnished legs of lamb, glistening racks of spareribs, and supple pork shoulders—there’s even oxtails offered up two ways: curried or smoked birria!—in the celebratory Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook, it may be agonizing to decide what to look at, let alone prepare and cook. Authored by pit-master, restaurateur, and Compton-born Kevin Bludso with partner Noah Galuten, their first book together chronicles Bludso’s storied journey. It’s at once a moving family portrait, a fascinating first-person POV into barbecue culture, and a proud tribute to the diversity and flavors of Los Angeles. Even their chicken wings recipe (on page 46) is shot through with winking humor, streetwise panache, and a chef ’s attention to detail. Mustardsmeared, smoked over pecan and oak and sprayed with apple juice, @EdibleLAMag

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they offer up a Proustian gateway into hot summers and backyard parties, no matter the month. Within minutes of cracking open Eric Kim’s Korean American: Food That Tastes Like Home, you sense that this is no ordinary cookbook, let alone a Korean one at that. Steadied with a voice that is both personal and personable, Kim’s debut work reads as half memoir and half cookbook. Jean, his beloved mother, and the American South (specifically Atlanta) play constellations as he guides us into his kitchen. While certainly not the only New York Times bestseller that centers around diaspora and identity through food, Kim eschews any fussiness or trendiness in favor of the emotional intelligence and tension that has made his food what it is—both Korean and American, but also neither. Yes, there are chapters entitled “Kimchi Is A Verb” and “Rice Cuisine,” but Kim also kicks off the book with “TV Dinners: Fast Foods to Eat On The Couch.” There are cultural touchstones, such as Budae Jjigae, the fortifying army stew of spam and hot dogs, but there is also something deliriously called Cheesy Corn and Ranch Pizza with Black-Pepper Honey. The beguiling yet comforting Gochugaru Shrimp and Roasted-Seaweed Grits (recipe on ediblela.com) is a masterwork of Korean sensibility and Southern pride, with flavor and world-weary history built into every bite. Rick Martinez’s triumphant Mi Cocina: Recipes and Rapture from My Kitchen in Mexico dazzles as a de facto travelogue as well as a love letter to regional Mexican cooking. In 2020, Martinez walked away from his job at Condé Nast Entertainment when they refused to pay him a fair and equitable contract relative to what his co-workers were making. Without a plan or safety net, he fearlessly moved permanently to Mexico after falling in love with Mazatlán, a beach town. It was there that he wrote Mi Cocina on his own terms, and in a voice completely unburdened by discussions of authenticity or veiled by the cliché to be “simple” or “modern” for the American mass market. Instead, Martinez examines dishes that celebrate the mosaic of states that is Mexico. Not interested in rehashing the familiar warhorses of what we know as Mexican cuisine, Martinez seeks out the interesting, the delicious and the under-represented. His take on Fideo Seco (recipe on ediblela.com) is a riot of heat and texture, of tender-chewy pasta and fiery chiles, that both comforts and steadies when eaten right out of the skillet. With international travel being something of a pipe dream these last few years, the impressive number of books from faraway lands has been both astonishing and restorative as our collective wanderlust has swept us away. We crave the jolt of the unknown and miss the buzz of heady discovery, and food is no different than any other bucket-list vista or getaway destination. For those looking across the Atlantic and to the Old World, the impressive Portugal: The Cookbook by chef Leandro Carreira and historical contributor Miguel Andrade, rewards with its nearly 450 pages and brow-raising 550 recipes. The north-star ingredients of Portuguese food, fish, seafood, beans, potatoes, and pork—not to mention a breathtaking devotion to eggs—are used and adored here in hundreds of ways. This book rightfully showcases this cuisine, and the remarkable global impact of millennia of trading and colonialism, while also arguing that it should no longer be sidestepped in favor of any of its neighboring countries’ more well-known gastronomic feats and exploits. Take the emblematic Bacalhau a Brae (Salt Cod with Eggs, Onions, and Potatoes; recipe on ediblela.com). Carreira speaks of how it’s a universally loved dish featuring humble ingredients, the briny salt cod, supple onions and creamy eggs all mixed with crispy matchstick potatoes coming together like a tone poem for thousands of Portuguese families. Bay Area chef, Reem Assil, has always been concerned with representation. Before cutting her teeth in bakeries and then restaurants, Assil—who is of Palestinian and Syrian descent— connected and built her own Arab community through activism, organizing groups for marches, rallies, and non-profits. But it was through her work in food that Assil envisioned social change, 44

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ownership, and amplifying voices that were often left out of the food conversation. With her acclaimed Oakland restaurant, Reem’s California, and her new book, Arabiyya: Recipes from the Life of An Arab in Diaspora, Assil lets us into an amazing concept that has always been there—literally for centuries—but is seldom acknowledged in Western culture or media: bottomless Arab hospitality. Her chapter “How To Host Like An Arab” is not just a guide to entertaining but illustrates how feeding and hosting others can be a lifeline to one’s own people and traditions. The bread and baking sections in this book are a true revelation—from savory flatbreads and flaky turnovers to syrup-kissed cakes and sticky buns. Assil’s mastery of bread also comes into play with her Fattet Lahme Wa Hummus (Savory Bread Pudding with Short Ribs and Chickpeas; recipe on page 46), a riot of flavors and textures with succulent short ribs and rich chickpeas adorning crispy shards of pita, all soused with yogurt, crunchy seeds and hot browned butter. At the shop, we refrain using the terms easy or simple when describing a book (or a dish for that matter) because that implies that anything that requires effort is to be looked down upon; but the truer tenet in cooking is that simple ain’t easy. With something as elemental as a salad, there is nothing to hide behind, no smoke and mirrors. In the brilliantly titled Salad Freak: Recipes to Feed A Healthy Obsession, author and stylist, Jess Damuck, asks us to put all our energy into the sourcing of seasonally appropriate produce, raising the ceiling of quality of what we put into our bodies. For her, flavor is always paramount and, once your components are ready—be they salmon or burrata or peas—don’t get in their way or do too much to them. There are a few notable dressings here, but mostly the salads are dressed with oil or fat and acid and seasoned with detail. Damuck’s summer recipe for Honeydew, Feta, Jalapenos, and Lime (recipe on page 48) is crave-able, quenching, salty, spicy, and juicy. After selecting the best melon from the market you can find, and crushing all the ice in your freezer to keep it crunchy and cold at poolside, it comes together without much effort. In Snacks For Dinner: Small Bites, Full Plates, Can’t Lose, Lukas Volger ushers out our collective obsession with snacking to center stage. Not unlike the tapas-influenced small plates craze of the early Aughts, Americans definitely have embraced snacking as a thing. Volger has so much fun here from crispy-crunchy goodness like brussels sprouts chips to an updated take on Chex mix; to pickles and pâté to a myriad different dips to heartier tarts and galettes—there’s something here for when people are coming over, or when you don’t want anyone to come over at all. Take Volger’s ingenious take on the classic cheese puff, which he whisks out of France and turns into an homage to Kentucky beer cheese with sharp cheddar and brown ale. Coming out of the oven, these Beer Cheese Gougeres (recipe on ediblela.com) hit you with buttery, malty, bitter and salty goodness. Who knew snacking could be a revelation? Anto Cocagne’s and Aline Princet’s incandescent new book, Saka Saka: Adventures in African Cooking, South of the Sahara beams pure joy and pride in sharing the region’s amazing dishes, as well as the stories and traditions that have produced them. Recently there have been quite a few noteworthy cookbooks focusing on the African diaspora and its cuisines—54 sovereign states!—but, from a culinary perspective, the Sub-Saharan region deserves more recognition. Saka Saka allows you to deftly navigate an ingredient list of okra, cassava, tamarind, and habanero, while also highlighting native artists, creators, and makers of the region as well. Beloved street food gets its own chapter here, such as grilled sardines or the tiny croquettes called chinchins jumping on the page. Saka Saka’s Banana Fritters are made of the essential plantain (or banana), and easily devoured and served several ways. Either you can cover them in powdered sugar, or serve them hot, crispy and savory with a side of chili sauce, or even sopping up a spicy braised dish or stew.

Cooking the Books

COOKING THE BOOKS

Head to the kitchen with a few of our favorite recipes excerpted from this season’s cookbooks. Find more at ediblela.com. Aubergines Cooked With Tomatoes Recipe excerpted with permission from On the Himalayan Trail by Romy Gill, photography by Matt Russell, published by Hardie Grant London, May 2022

Serves 3 When visiting Kashmir and Jammu, I saw that thin, long aubergines (eggplant) were popular dishes among the Kashmiri Hindus. I am a big fan of aubergines and learning to cook and eat them in different ways is exciting. The sweet, sour tomatoes work well with the aubergines here. Ingredients 8 long thin aubergines (eggplant) (or 2 large ones), quartered lengthways, keeping the stem end intact so they are joined at the top 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 8 teaspoons mustard oil or sunflower oil 1 teaspoon brown cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon asafoetida powder 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) tomatoes, chopped 1 teaspoon ground ginger 2 teaspoons kashmiri chilli powder 100 ml (31/2 fl oz/scant 1/2 cup) water 2–3 green chillies, halved (don’t remove seeds) steamed rice, to serve Instructions 1. Place the aubergines into a large bowl and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and the turmeric. Mix and set aside for 15 minutes. 2. Heat 5 teaspoons of the oil in a large pan over a medium heat and fry the marinated aubergines until light brown. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on a plate lined with paper towels. 3. To the same pan, add the remaining 3 teaspoons of oil, then add the cumin seeds and asafoetida. When they start sizzling, add the chopped tomatoes and cook for 5–6 minutes until they are soft. 4. Add the ground ginger and chilli powder, along with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Add the water and cook for 2 minutes, then return the fried aubergines to the pan. Add the green chillies and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 5. Remove from the heat and leave to rest for 30 minutes before serving with steamed rice.

Aubergines Cooked With Tomatoes from On the Himalayan Trail; photo by Matt Russell

Smoked Chicken Wings Reprinted with permission from Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul. Copyright © 2022 by Kevin Bludso. Photography Copyright © 2022 by Eric Wolfinger. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.

Ingredients Large chicken wings Yellow mustard for rubbing Bludso’s Chicken Rub for seasoning (recipe below) Finely or coarsely ground black pepper Apple juice for spraying Wood: Oak, pecan, and apple (optional) Temperature: 250° to 260°F Rough Cook Time: About 21⁄2 hours Cooking Equipment: Smoker, spray bottle Instructions Seasoning Your Chicken Wings Dry off your wings with a paper or kitchen towel. Spread a thin, even layer of mustard all over each wing, rubbing it in well and making sure there are no clumps. Season the wings @EdibleLAMag

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liberally with rub and sprinkle with pepper.

COOKING THE BOOKS

Smoking Your Chicken Wings Follow the instructions in How to Light Your Pit, aiming for a temperature of 260°F. When the charcoal is ready, add 70 percent oak and 30 percent pecan. Let the wood burn off for 5 to 10 minutes. Now load the wings into your pit and then watch your temperature. Every time the temperature drops down to 250°F, add a little more wood and charcoal. On that first drop in temperature, you can add a little applewood if you like. When the rub has set on the wings—after about 1 hour—you can spray the wings with apple juice every time you open the pit to check on them or the fire. Continue smoking the wings until they have a little bit of give on the joint and are fully cooked through, about 2 ½ hours. Spray them with apple juice just before they come out of the pit and then serve. Leftovers wings will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 6 days.

Bludso’s Chicken Rub MAKES A GENEROUS 3 CUPS Ingredients 11⁄4 cups seasoning salt 1⁄3 cup granulated sugar 1⁄3 cup ground cumin 1⁄3 cup ground black pepper 1⁄4 cup granulated garlic 1⁄4 cup granulated onion 2 tablespoons dark chili powder 2 tablespoons smoked paprika 1 tablespoon ground oregano 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper 11⁄2 teaspoons ground turmeric Smoked Chicken Wings from Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul; photo by Eric Wolfinger

Instructions In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients and mix thoroughly. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Fattet Lahme Wa Hummus (Savory Bread Pudding With Short Ribs And Chickpeas) Reprinted with permission from Arabiyya: Recipes from the Life of an Arab in Diaspora by Reem Assil, copyright © 2022. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.

Makes 4 to 6 servings ONE OF MY favorite memories from visits to Beirut was listening to the sizzle of fried pine 46

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nuts in hot clarified butter hit the top of a fatteh at street corner stalls, where vendors were making this dish to order for hungry crowds.

COOKING THE BOOKS

It takes only one bite to understand the magic of fatteh, the ultimate breakfast and brunch mezze dish and a perfect cure for a hangover. Fattet simply means “a fatteh composed of . . . [fill in the blank].” That could include a layered dish of chickpeas and any other ingredients your heart desires, spooned atop a bed of crispy pita chips and blanketed by a rich yogurt-tahini sauce, then rounded out with herbs, toasted nuts, and the delicious tart notes of pomegranate. I’ve opted here for the addition of an aromatic short rib braise. Left to sit for a while, the fried bread soaks in the rich broth and yogurt to resemble a savory bread pudding. This recipe is also great for potlucks and can be doubled to create a larger casserole to share with friends or neighbors. It can be covered in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to a week and reheats nicely in the oven, right in the same baking dish. Ingredients 1½ pounds bone-in beef short ribs 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed 1½ teaspoons Seven-Spice Mix ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper or Chile-Spice Mix ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ¾ cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight, or one 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed Pinch of baking soda (for dried chickpeas only) 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola 1 yellow onion, cut into large wedges ½ fennel bulb, cut into large wedges 3 garlic cloves, halved ½ teaspoon fennel seeds 5 cardamom pods 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon ground cumin Sauce ¾ cup whole milk yogurt 1 tablespoon tahini 1 tablespoon lemon juice (about ½ lemon) 1 teaspoon minced or grated garlic (about 1 clove) ½ teaspoon kosher salt 4 cups store-bought pita chips or 2-inch pieces of pita bread, fried ¼ cup pine nuts 2 tablespoons Clarified Butter or extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses, and/or ¼ cup pomegranate seeds Instructions In a large bowl, rub the short ribs with the salt, spice mix, Aleppo pepper, and cardamom, then cover and refrigerate overnight or for at least 4 hours ahead of time. Set the ribs out at room temperature 90 minutes before cooking.

Savory Bread Pudding from Reem Assil’s Arabiyya: Recipes from the Life of an Arab in Diaspora.

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Tear the meat to your liking, into shreds or small chunks. To make the sauce: Combine the yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk until incorporated. When ready to assemble, spread the pita chips in a base layer of a serving bowl or a casserole dish. Spoon the warm shredded meat over the top, then ladle the broth and chickpeas over the meat and chips. Next, drizzle on an even layer of the yogurt sauce. When ready to serve, sauté the pine nuts in the butter over medium-low heat, stirring continuously until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Drizzle the sizzling butter and pine nuts over the dish. Top with the parsley and molasses.

Serves 6 to 8 as a snack If you took out the feta cheese, I’m certain that if blended, this would also make an incredible tequila-based cocktail.

If you are using dried chickpeas, place them in a small pot with a pinch of baking soda and cover the beans with about 6 inches of water. Bring to a boil, skim, discard the residue from the water’s surface, and decrease the heat to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, uncovered, until the beans soften, about 30 minutes. Test for doneness by squeezing a bean between your thumb and forefinger. If you are using canned chickpeas, skip this step. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Warm the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear the short ribs, cooking to a nice crusty brown before flipping, about 3 minutes per side. Remove and set aside. In the same pot, char the onion, fennel bulb, and garlic on medium-high heat. Return the meat to the Dutch oven and add about 3 cups hot water or just enough to barely cover the ribs. Add the fennel seeds, cardamom pods, and bay leaf. Cover and braise until the meat easily pulls away from the bone, 2½ to 3 hours. If you do not have a Dutch oven, sear the meat and vegetables in a cast-iron or heavy skillet and transfer to a roasting pan, add water and spices, and cover with aluminum foil before cooking. Set the meat aside and allow to cool slightly if time permits. Strain the braising liquid into a small saucepan. Discard the remaining braising vegetables and bones. Bring the liquid to a boil over medium heat and then decrease the heat to a simmer. Add the cumin and chickpeas and simmer until the chickpeas are tender but not mushy, about 10 minutes. Adjust the salt to taste. 48 ediblela.com @EdibleLAMag

PRODUCE 1 small, extremely ripe honeydew melon 1 small jalapeño or serrano chile 2 limes 1 cup fresh basil leaves (torn, if large; I recommend purple basil, if available) DAIRY 4 ounces (115 g) feta cheese (Valbreso or French) PANTRY Extra-virgin olive oil (the good stuff) Flaky salt PREP: Cut the ends of 1 honeydew melon so it has two flat surfaces. While it’s on one of its flat surfaces, cut the rind off the melon, trying to lose as little flesh as possible. Cut the melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Cut in half again and thinly slice. ASSEMBLE AND SERVE: Shingle the melon slices on a platter. Thinly slice 4 ounces (115 g) feta and add the thin shards to the platter with the melon. Thinly slice 1 jalapeño (I like to do it on a mandoline, and I keep the seeds in for a little extra kick) and scatter it on top of the melon and feta. Use a Microplane to zest 1 lime right over the platter, then squeeze its juice all over. Cut another lime into wedges and arrange around the platter. Drizzle the salad with oil and sprinkle with flaky salt. Add 1 cup basil to the platter. ■

COOKING THE BOOKS

Honeydew, Feta, Jalapeños, and Lime from Salad Freak: Recipes to Feed A Healthy Obsession by Jess Damuck.

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Canter’s Deli on Fairfax, LA, 2018. Photo by David George/ Alamy Stoch Photo

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Old School,

New School The New Face of Jewish Delis BY EMMA KOPELOWICZ

n Jewish American history, there are two main houses of worship: the synagogue and the delicatessen. Both establishments are community spaces where people gather to exchange ideas, find inspiration, and kibitz about how to cook the perfect brisket. Times have changed though, and the new delis that have replaced many of the old ones contain a matzoh ball soup of contradictions. Let’s start with the old. The Jewish deli has been immortalized in many a pop culture reference and, most recently, in an aptly named exhibit at the Skirball Center. “I’ll Have What She’s Having: The Jewish Deli” investigates the history of immigration and food through rare footage of early street peddlers fighting for space on the cobblestone streets of New York and display cases full of menus, matchbooks, and other memorabilia from fabled delis across the country, from Carnegie’s to Canter’s. There’s a lot to learn. According to the Skirball exhibit, before delis became the social, political, and cultural epicenters, they were spaces where Jewish immigrants could eat the beloved Central and Eastern European dishes they craved from home. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, an influx of primarily German Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants came to the East Coast and the Midwest seeking opportunities for growth and success. As many of these immigrants settled into their new American life, savvy self-starters began selling the taste of nostalgia on the streets of New York; peddling pickles, herring, knishes, and more tasty but not widely available goods to working-class European customers. These pushcart businesses eventually grew into brickand-mortar kosher appetizing stores which often transformed into restaurants or “delicatessens” — a German word which loosely translates to “a place to find delicious things to eat.” By 1930, there were a mindblowing 5,000 delicatessens in New York City — compare that to the 241 Starbucks locations that currently exist in NYC. @EdibleLAMag ediblela.com 51

Top: 2nd generation owner Abe Shapiro, Shapiro’s Delicatessen, Indianopolis c 1932, Courtesy of Shapiro’s Delicatessen; Bottom: Guns n Roses at Canter’s Deli, LA, CA, c1980s, Photo by Jack Lue

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Soon most Jewish delicatessens shed their kosher coatings and became as ubiquitously American as apple pie. Aside from serving bagels, babka, and latkes, Jewish delis began expanding their menus to include non-kosher meat and dairy items like pastrami Reubens topped with Swiss cheese and even cheeseburgers. Of course, there was also the famously popular addition of densely decadent New York-style cheesecake on a crumbly, barely-there graham cracker crust. The clientele diversified as much as the menu. In LA, blue collar workers and immigrant families were dining alongside big shot Hollywood producers and celebrities like Marilyn Monroe (who enjoyed the now-closed Greenblatt’s hot pastrami with their signature mustardbrushed rye bread). The deli was officially a mainstream social gathering space where members of the Jewish community could get their chicken liver on toast with a side of local gossip and gentiles could enjoy some of the best sandwiches in the city. While the bright neon signage and realistic replicas of corned beef and kugel at the Skirball’s exhibit will most likely inspire a spontaneous trip to your closest deli (it did for me), it’s hard to ignore the reality that many of the storied leather booth, cream-soda-slinging restaurants showcased in the gallery are no longer with us. Even more sobering is the idea that the way we used to gather and socialize in these spaces is also now a long-lost relic. Shockwaves swept Santa Monica when Zucky’s Deli suddenly closed in 1993 after 39 years in business. The reason? County health inspectors ordered the owners to make several expensive renovations that would have sunk Zucky’s owners in debt. Even though Zucky’s wasn’t great shakes for their food, it still hurts to see a community focal point fall at the hands of rising food costs and gentrification. The Jonathan Gold-approved Billy’s in Glendale served its last pastrami sandwiches on June 4, 2015 after 67 years in the business. Then went Solley’s. And Jerry’s in Woodland Hills due to rising rent costs. The pandemic was the final blow that toppled some of the most storied and beloved Jewish delis in the country, most notably the 95-year-old Greenblatt’s in West Hollywood. Though all is not lost. Canter’s celebrated its 90th birthday last year. Langer’s continues to hold the reigning title for the world’s best pastrami sandwich. Nate and Al’s was saved from its demise by the same restaurant group that purchased Pico’s favorite hole-in-the-wall burger joint, The Apple Pan. While the laminate counters, mile-high pastrami sandwiches, and waitresses trained in the art of precariously balancing three bowls of matzo ball soup and four cream sodas are hallmarks of the quintessential deli image, a new crop of “modern delicatessens” are attempting to breathe new life into nostalgic Jewish cooking with menus that prioritize seasonal ingredients and sustainability. Take Mort and Betty’s, for example. Chef Megan Tucker creates her signature “vegan deli” provisions out of a 95-year-old incubator-style commercial kitchen in the Arts District. Her carrot lox and corned beet Reuben tacos are eclectic takes on quintessential flavors that also pay homage to LA’s diverse food landscape. Trisha Langer of the legendary Langer’s Delicatessen dynasty decided to open up her own sandwich shop in West Hollywood, importing some of the deli’s greatest hits as well as slightly more contemporary noshes like farmer’s cheese stuffed blintzes and glutenfree bagels. Back in 2017, Freedman’s took a chef-driven crack at bringing classic Jewish comfort foods to the modern age. Torontonian Jonah Freedman and acclaimed chef Liz Johnson (who put New York’s Mimi on the map) teamed up to open an unassuming strip mall joint that served bubbe-approved tableside brisket and matzo ball soup out of vintage Pyrex containers. It was an instant hit with the Silver Lake crowd and many a food critic, though the restaurant didn’t make it through the pandemic. On a brighter note, famed San Francisco deli chain Wise Sons opened up in Culver City last year only a few months after the great NYC vs LA bagel debate, bringing their house-baked chewy bagels and

kimchi Reubens along with them. On any given Thursday, a snake of hungry patrons wraps around the block outside of Courage Bagels, one of the shops that convinced New York Times food critic Tejal Rao that the West Coast is now the reigning capital of great bagels. Culinary couple Arielle Skye and Chris Moss’s fermented Montreal/California-inspired bagels play out like a perfectly baked French baguette. The crispy, browned-to-thepoint-of-almost-charred exterior of their everything bagel adds a smoky crunch to each bite of their “Run it Through the Garden” sandwich piled with cucumbers, capers, a fat tomato slice, and sprigs of fresh dill. Skye and Moss started Courage as a passion project back in 2016, but soon found themselves unearthing parts of their shared Jewish heritage in the process of developing their signature bagel recipe. “When we first started making bagels together, we were so fascinated by what is realistically in our blood,” Moss said. “It’s like we’re relearning something: what was lost, what’s new.” Unlike Moss, who spent most of his life immersed in New York’s deli scene, Michigan-native Skye did not grow up knowing about her family’s Jewish ancestry or eating Jewish cuisine. In fact, she didn’t think much about bagels until she came across a blogger’s recipe for the Montreal-style variety — then she was hooked. After spending months pouring over countless recipes, articles, and books dedicated to the art of bagel-making, she eventually developed her first recipe inspired by Montreal’s distinctive thinner, sweeter tasting bagel. “I started selling bagels off of my bike,” Skye said. “Which is illegal, so it felt very similar to what I was reading about Eastern Europeans selling bagels on the street. I felt like this lost artist who didn’t have any money or know what I was going to do with life and just needed to survive.”

Moss’ culinary journey began long before Courage. His stints across various kitchens in Los Angeles along with the lucky opportunity to connect with Nancy Silverton in her La Brea Bakery days led Moss to some early experiments with wild fermentation. “It’s a little bit more work than using a yeast that’s prepared, but the flavors can be really wonderful,” Moss said. “We thought this is how bagels would have been made long ago, so we’re going beyond what people are doing in the modern world, and we’re looking to the origins of this delicious food.” After reading extensively about Montreal’s wood-fired bagels, Moss and Skye decided that they needed to make all their bagels by hand and produce them continuously throughout the day so customers could enjoy peak freshness until closing time. Sitting outside of the packed Virgil Village shop, after devouring every last crumb of the bagel I waited over half an hour to receive, I couldn’t help but think about the plucky Eastern European Jews wheeling around their pushcarts full of pickled meats and bagels around the streets of New York. They hustled and scraped by to bring their culinary traditions from home to fellow immigrants who missed the flavors and tastes of their roots. They became successful storefront business owners who forged community through food — much like Skye and Moss. “We’re listening to the unspoken voices of Russ & Daughters, Canters, [and] all those existing places that have managed to survive throughout time with simple integrity,” Moss said. “I think that is the secret sauce, if there is one, of Courage Bagels: we try to deliver the same experience of food prepared with care by family to everyone — I think that’s really a hallmark of deli food.” ■

MARKET & SHOP | LOS ANGELES OPENING SUMMER 2022 FROM EDIBLE GARDENS LA BRICK + MORTAR

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On the Edge of the Caldera A Santorini Bolt-hole with Fantastic Food BY LISA ALEXANDER

’ve long been intrigued by the volcanic wines of Santorini. Take a tour of the wine blogs, and you’ll hear about their complexity, with tastes of citrus, flintstone, jasmine, honey and toast. You’ve also heard, most likely, that that Santorini is a place of two things: the young, carousing in the hip bars in Oia and Fira, and the old, day-trippers who flood the streets, buying trinkets and never straying too far from the shuttle back to their cruise ship. Last month, I decided to find out myself and lucked into Grace Hotel. One of the Auberge Resorts Collection, it has that Cyclades spill of structures built into the cliff and, yes, it’s spang in front of that priceless view. What surprises most is how otherworldly it is, possibly one of the most beautiful places you’ll ever see. Right in front is the volcano, its center submerged, with just the tips of its rock walls jutting out as islands in the endless blue. Legend even has it that this was once Atlantis which, somehow, doesn’t seem that hard to believe. The staff says no two days are the same. Shreds of mist drift by in the morning. When I’m there with my partner, wind scuttles white caps in the bay. In our suite, the casements bang, and the plunge 54

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Photos courtesy of Grace Hotel, Auberge Resorts Collection

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pool sloshes. Our room is down the hill, next to a hiking trail up Skaros Rock, an imposing promontory once used as a fortress. A very Greeklooking chapel is outside, white with blue windows to keep out the evil spirts, and a weathered locked door. In this Age of Instagram, the round roof proves irresistible to a bride, trailing her photographer, as she and her guy clamber up, only to have her hair fluffed by the wind and the hem of her dress blown over her face as her new husband leans in for a kiss. One afternoon we go to Pyrgos, a little town slightly inland, that seems closer than tourist-thronged Oia and Fira to the real Greece. We walk the steep path between white houses up to the church and castle, and see lots of fluffy inquisitive cats. The Greeks love their felines, as we learn; with almost every turn, we see a little bowl of water and food laid out for a snack. On the way up, the famous grapevines crowd every single backyard. We ask the taxi driver, and he tells us some are leased by the wineries, and others are for homemade wine. The vines here not staked; because of the wind, they grow in a sinuous circle and close to the ground. We brave Fira that night, having a stellar moussaka at a place called Argo, and perhaps too much ouzo. After dinner, we weave all the way back to Grace on a winding sea path, the yellow moon hanging above us, and the white cave houses glowing in its light. The next morning we hole up at Grace because, well, the breakfast is spectacular, a multicourse parade of Greek yogurt—way different than the kind you find here, just better—a round ratatouille omelet, lemon tarts and bowls of hot coffee—next to the infinity pool. The whole hotel is a fantastic place to talk and think. You can pretend you’re a lighthouse keeper with all the sea at your feet. Grace Hotel is pretty much built for mountain goats with precipitous flights that seem almost vertical, but that’s part of its charm. The staff are full of welcome; they seem prepared for everything, the bellmen lifting your fifty pound bag on their shoulders, Sherpa-like, and scampering ahead like it’s nothing at all. That night we try Varoulko, the white hotel restaurant. Lefteris Lazarou, the executive chef, is not in, but we’re in good hands with the head chef, who apprenticed with Lefteris when he was just thirteen. This head chef is shy, we’re told, and speaks through his food. The menu is uber-local and all about the “previously snubbed fish and crustaceans” which Lefteris Lazarou, the first Greek chef to receive a Michelin star, has famously incorporated into fine dining. There’s a succulent red shrimp tartare, curled in on itself over a slice of spinach pie. There’s another version with red mullet, black current and bottarga. My favorite thing is the sea bream with a slice of toast replacing its skin. There’s something about that change in texture from the crackle you’d expect, to the soft flesh of the fish against the even crunch of the toast that is positively addictive. I also love the long black-ish baguettes, which turn out to be made with carob and are an island specialty. They are paired with the “best Kalamata olives in Greece” and a surprisingly delicious tomato paste subtly flavored with—wait for it—vanilla. The dessert is a shiny dome that cracks into a mousse and a sorbet that tastes startlingly of fresh pears. My partner has a lemon cream with ginger and tonka ice cream. Served throughout are those volcanic wines of the island, Gramina and Argyros. When you drink them, you have a sense of those wind-swept stones and the swirled vines on the hill. ■

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