NOTABLE EDIBLES

Local Cheese for Winter Gatherings by Emma Waldinger

Pine River Port Wine Cold Pack Cheese

According to Liz Fitzsimmons from Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin, “Nothing says the holidays like port wine spread.” Pine River packs together Wisconsin Grade A aged cheddar and sweet, fruity port wine in a spreadable topping. Pair it with a big plate of whole wheat crackers (you’ll want to eat the whole tub), toasted walnuts, dry hard cheeses and local cured meats.

^ Uplands Rush Creek Reserve A coveted Wisconsin

winter specialty, Uplands Cheese’s Rush Creek Reserve embodies the local landscape. Produced only in the fall, as Uplands’ cows are weaned from summer pasture to winter’s dry hay, Rush Creek is a rich cheese with a “savory custard” texture and a “subtle woodsy flavor.” Wrapped in spruce bark, this cheese is the perfect centerpiece for a special meal—get your hands on it before it sells out!

Carr Valley Cranberry Chipotle Cheddar This

award-winning cheese balances tart cranberries with smoky chipotle in a smooth white cheddar. Celebrate Wisconsin’s state fruit, and an iconic winter flavor, in this fun twist on a classic cheese. Make a spread of Carr Valley’s Cranberry Chipotle Cheddar by plating it with dark chocolate, orange slices and root vegetable chips.

Roth Cranberry Cinnamon Chèvre

Cut the rich flavor of fresh goat cheese with a sweet and spicy cranberry cinnamon combination. Roth Cheese’s Cranberry Cinnamon Chèvre is a new favorite that creates kinship between divergent flavors. Pair it with spiced nuts, cured meats and hearty seasonal beverages like ciders and barrel-aged beers.

^ Landmark Creamery Fondue A New Year’s staple

and the essence of any fun winter gathering, come together around Landmark Creamery’s Sheep Milk Fondue. This cheese blends Landmark Creamery’s Anabasque and Pipit cheeses for notes of fruit, funk and nuttiness. Assemble a spread of your favorite fondue toppings and make a party of it, or mix into macaroni and cheese, pizza, scalloped potatoes or grilled cheese.

Holland’s Family Cheese Foenegreek Gouda

Holland’s Family Cheese’s signature Foenegreek Gouda marries the freshest Wisconsin cow’s milk with authentic Dutch craftsmanship. Marieke Penterman brings her award-winning talent for cheesemaking to this syrupy and nutty cheese, using herbs, seeds and spices gathered from the Netherlands and milk fresh from her family farm’s raw cow’s milk. The expert cheesemongers at Fromagination on the square recommend pairing it with Potter’s Winter Wheat Crackers, maple syrup, toasted almonds, dark rum or amber beer.

Celebrate with Local Chocolate by Hannah Wente

Candinas has been selling its signature boxes of chocolates on the Capitol Square since 1994. Founder Markus Candinas learned the craft as an apprentice in Switzerland. Favorites like champagne, ginger and hazelnut truffles ship throughout the U.S. in days. CocoVaa Chocolatier founder, Syovata Edari, is a criminal defense lawyer turned international award-winning chocolatier. While operating a small business has its challenges, Edari says that ”being a micro business has allowed me to build direct relationships with the ingredient providers in our value chain.” She takes a trip to Sassy Cow Creamery in Sun Prairie each week to get her cream and gets her 83%-fat European butter from Grasslands Dairy in Greenwood, owned by the Wüthruch family. She often incorporates J. Henry & Sons bourbon in her recipes and sources other spirits from Yahara Bay Distillery. She also sources herbs from local farmers. CocoVaa Chocolatier is located at 1815 East Washington in Madison.

^ Gail Ambrosius left behind a career in cartography to become a full-time chocolatier and we are so glad she did. Her travels to South American cacao farms inspire chocolate flavors and techniques that preserve and honor the star ingredient. Her new location on Atwood Avenue (across from her former location) showcases ancient chocolate-making artifacts. ^ Madison Chocolate Company on Monroe Street

is a treasure trove of gluten-free treats and innovative truffles. The London Chew features housemade caramel between gluten-free graham crackers and toasted coconut white chocolate curry. The Wall of Chocolates features international holiday delights as well as the best pure chocolate bars from countries like Vietnam and Brazil. Roots Chocolates owner and fourth-generation farmer Lisa Nelson crafts single-origin chocolates from fruits and herbs of the farmscape surrounding Wisconsin Dells. Award-winning chocolates include her chocolate mint basil and quince truffles. Find Roots at the Dane County Farmers’ Market.

^ WM. Chocolate is Madison’s go-to for dark chocolate bar lovers. Founder William Marx is committed to sourcing organic, whole-food ingredients from as close to Madison as possible. Find Dark + Salt with sea salt crystals harvested in the U.S. and Extra Dark bars at retailers like Good Day Shop.

by Michael Brandt

A look inside The Shoppe (top). Bob serving up a fresh handmade pizza (right). Photos courtesy of The Shoppe.

In the midst of the farms and wooded hills which define the Wisconsin River Valley, a celebration is taking shape. Emerging through the autumnal twilight, guests are drawn to this particular half-acre not just by the promise of good food, good wine and good music, but to honor the extraordinary couple who have imbued it with a magic all its own. The Shoppe at Herbs, Spices & More is a familiar landmark to those traveling Highway 14, west of Madison. Yet the charming, unassuming red-and-white storefront offers barely a hint of its remarkable story. When Bob and Kate McQuade acquired the former gift store in 1989, the plan was simple. They would cultivate a variety of herbs which Bob would wholesale to area restaurants. It was a market he knew well. Having first apprenticed at age 15, Bob’s career followed the sporadic, often manic path familiar to all successful chefs. In his native environment, i.e., greater New York, competition was fierce. Yet each new opportunity advanced not only his culinary skills but his overall knowledge of the restaurant business. The McQuades came to the Midwest to raise a family. Bob continued through a long succession of prominent positions, including Executive Chef at the iconic Spring Green Restaurant (today’s Riverview Terrace). Originally, The Shoppe was intended to be a retirement project. Once open the business was soon running at full throttle. Each week, Bob was delivering not only herbs, but spices, mushrooms and even edible flowers to dozens of Madison restaurants. It wasn’t until 2000 that he decided to retire “for good.” Three years later, the McQuades reopened The Shoppe as the retail operation it is today. Fresh bread and other baked goods became standard. The offer of coffee to neighbors who came to chat morphed into a Sunday morning institution known as “Church of the Sweet Roll.”

Dozens of handmade pizzas are made in the outdoor brick oven every Tuesday during the warmer months. Once again, there is laughter and song under strings of tiny lights. Having recently marked his 90th birthday, “Papa Bob” is still contemplating retirement. Closing the retail business, for sure. Maybe serving only the occasional formal dinner. For just a few patrons. And of course, it would be ungracious to refuse any request to serve as a “guest” chef…