Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in Southern Wisconsin
artistry
“The creative mind plays with the objects it loves.”
―CARL JUNG
Above: Lamb and Herb-Stuffed Roasted Squash with Lebanese Garlic-Tahini Tarator Sauce (recipe on page 6) are ready to be served. Photo by Sunny Frantz.
Cover: Chef Andrew Jack's stunning plating of radish nukazuke and cultured mint butter lies beautifully at the intersection of food and art. Whole red radishes are made like traditional nukazuke, a Japanese style of preserving foods by fermenting vegetables in rice bran, until their texture resembles dough. Photo by Andrew Jack.
If you have ever uttered the words, “It’s almost too beautiful to eat,” then this issue is for you. This winter we’re showcasing the stories, recipes, photography and illustrations that lie at the deeply delicious and intriguing intersection of food and art.
I have been fortunate to be seated at many dining tables, marveling at the artistry of a dish—at Fairchild in Madison where paper-thin slices of radish encircle a tall octopus tentacle or at a once-in-a-lifetime dinner at Alinea in Chicago where chef Grant Achatz literally paints a modern work of dessert art across the table in front of you with chocolates and freeze dried sorbets.
Most recently, however, I was treated to an unexpected thrill of the senses during Savor the Summer Feast hosted by Savor the River Valley and Edible Madison at the stunning Hilltop in Spring Green. Salads popped with the colorful fruits of the season, a sphere of polenta was brightened by the orange-red of a nasturtium, but it was Briarwood Flowers' additions of edibles in the floral arrangements that truly caught my eye. The curl of a pea tendril and vine of nearly micro cherry tomatoes were elegantly paired with multicolored zinnias. It reminded me how captivating even the simplest of foods can be if you take the time to truly look.
Even in the depths of winter when bright berries are months away and deep green fields are blankets of snow, there is still so much artistry in our food system. Creating this issue was an eye-opener for me—pun very much intended—as I dove headfirst into the worlds of food depicted in art, food as art, and the vibrant communities and culture at the intersection of both.
Food and art are everywhere in our local food system, from the undeniable creativity of the Cook at Home winter recipes (page 30) to wildly inspiring art installations across Sauk County as part of the Farm/Art DTour (page 38). We hope this winter offers you an opportunity to take in the wonders of our food system with every sense. Smell, taste, see, and take in the edible art surrounding us.
Cheers,
Be sure to check out ediblemadison.com for exclusive online content, like Local UpStarts, a quarterly digital column that celebrates local entrepreneurs who have participated in the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation’s UpStart program, a free entrepreneurship program for women and people of color. This winter, we profile Eder Valle of Artesan Fruit
Cabbage, Phillip Herschberger, La Farge, WI La Crosse:
MARISSA DEGROOT
Marissa feels fortunate to be a part of our local food system as the managing editor of Edible Madison as well as working at Vitruvian Farms, her husband Tommy's organic vegetable and mushroom farm. She loves raising their daughter, Ollie, and their team of fur babies on the farm in McFarland.
SUNNY FRANTZ
Sunny is an editorial and commercial photographer with a studio on the west side of Madison where she lives with her husband, their two kids and a tiny dog. She specializes in food and product photography and loves the opportunity it gives her to connect with the many wonderful businesses and entrepreneurs in Madison.
NICK GARCIA
Nick is a portrait and editorial photographer living in Cottage Grove. Most often he can be found with a coffee in hand, spending time with family, watching soccer, listening to the latest indie music to hit the charts, and exploring new cities and spaces around the Midwest.
ERICA KRUG
Erica is a freelance writer from Madison. In addition to writing and helping to run youth writing summer camps, she also works for Rooted, a local nonprofit, where she supports statewide farm-to-school efforts. Erica loves gardening, swimming in cold lakes and playing Yahtzee.
MANAGING EDITOR
Marissa DeGroot
PUBLISHER
Christy McKenzie
BUSINESS DIRECTOR
Christy McKenzie
SALES DIRECTOR
Lauren Rudersdorf
LAYOUT & PRODUCTION
Nicole Welch
COPY EDITOR
Andrea Debbink
CULINARY ADVISOR
Christy McKenzie
SOCIAL & DIGITAL PRODUCER
Lauren Rudersdorf
ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIPS
Lauren Rudersdorf laurenr@ediblemadison.com
DRIFTLESS REGIONAL SALES MANAGER
Kristen Wagner kristen@ediblemadison.com
LAURA POE MATHES
Laura is a registered dietitian focused on using real foods and herbs to help heal the gut. She is the creator of the Rest, Digest and Heal online course and community, and teaches traditional cooking and fermentation classes around the region. Laura lives in the Driftless area with her husband and kiddos where they homestead and play in the river as much as possible. Originally from Missouri, she now understands why cheese curds are a thing.
CHRISTY MCKENZIE
Christy is the owner of Pasture and Plenty—a specialty market and deli, demonstration kitchen, and meal kit pick-up and delivery service. P&P gives the community access to healthy, locally sourced meals and foods that make eating well and eating local easier every day. She works to create and connect community around issues of food equity, access and agency. She is the publisher of Edible Madison and a sometimes writer.
CRICKET REDMAN
Cricket is an avid gardener, artist and designer, and messy cook. By day she runs Cricket Design Works and was creative director and partner of Edible Madison from the beginning of the pandemic through 2023. In 1993, she moved to Madison for grad school at UW–Madison and fell in love with the snowy winters, the Driftless landscape and her nowhusband and business partner, Phil.
LAUREN RUDERSDORF
Lauren is a grant writer, recipe developer, and freelance marketing consultant who advocates for local producers and cooking with the seasons. Her love of good food began in Madison at the Dane County Farmers Market and deepened on the organic CSA vegetable farm she ran with her husband for nearly a decade. Now, life looks different with a big garden and two sweet kiddos to care for instead of the farm, but it's no less delicious.
CONTACT US
Edible Madison 4313 Somerset Lane Madison, WI 53711 hello@ediblemadison.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
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Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
VISIT US ONLINE AT EDIBLEMADISON.COM
MEGHAN SILBERNAGEL
Meghan is a local graphic designer and illustrator. She finds that her mind wanders and is most creative when she is out for a run or on her bike. She's a flower-holding, tomato-eating, sun-soaking Midwesterner, which may seem summer-biased; but Meghan finds each season to have its own wonderful bits to look forward to.
NICOLE WELCH
Nicole is a graphic designer, photographer and artist from Madison. Her favorite things include off-trail hiking with her husband, Tyler, binging NYT Cooking videos and being a home chef, reading plenty of books and playing Dungeons and Dragons with her stepsons. She is also a cofounder of New Fashioned Sobriety, an alcohol-free community based in Madison which hosts monthly meetups and events. She aspires to someday photograph and design a cookbook for someone.
HANNAH WENTE
Hannah grew up as a 4-H kid on the shores of Lake Michigan. She is a freelance writer and graphic designer based in Madison. In her previous role as communications director for REAP Food Group, she helped launch the new statewide Farm Fresh Atlas project and supported farmto-school and farm-to-business efforts. When she’s not gardening, cooking or baking, you can find her playing ultimate frisbee or paddling the nearest lake.
by Marissa DeGroot and Recipe by Christy McKenzie
In Season: Winter Squash
We truly feel the change of the season when the last of the fall tomatoes are replaced by the colorful bouquet of winter squash. Winter squash can be vastly different in size, shape and color but differ from their summer squash cousins due to their staying power. Harvested in autumn, these ripe but thick-skinned squash are hardy enough to be stored and enjoyed throughout the cold winter months. Though there are differences in taste and texture between winter squash varieties, many can be swapped out in recipes.
Some of our favorite winter squash are the red kuri and kabocha, both because they are more unique varieties and also because their skin becomes soft and edible when cooked, eliminating the need to peel.
Red Kuri
These bright, orange-red squash are hard to miss if you’re lucky enough to find one at your local market or grocery store. Also known as the Hokkaido pumpkin, red kuri squash are not as common as delicata squash (which can be similar in flavor and texture) so we recommend grabbing a few for the winter when you can. If kept in a cool spot away from sunlight, red kuri squash can keep for several months. Their mild, sweet and nutty flavor lend it well to being roasted, used in stews or curries, or being pureed into a soup. Kabocha
Known also as a Japanese pumpkin, the kabocha squash is a delicious pantry staple due to its remarkably sweet flavor, even sweeter than a butternut squash. They come in both red and green varieties, though regardless of their exterior color, both are bright yelloworange inside. Kabocha are used in savory and sweet dishes, whether roasted with a miso glaze or turned into a kabocha pumpkin pie. When choosing a squash, pick one that feels heavy for its size and is free of soft spots—a tip that can apply when choosing any winter squash variety.
Lamb and Herb-Stuffed Roasted Squash with Lebanese Garlic-Tahini Tarator Sauce
Serves 4
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS
For Roasted Squash:
1 red kuri or kabocha squash (3 to 4 lbs), seeded and quartered
Olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
For Lamb and Herb Filling:
1 pound ground lamb
1 yellow onion, grated
2 medium carrots, grated
1 bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped or 3 tablespoons dried
¼ cup chopped fresh mint or 1 tablespoon dried
¼ cup fresh oregano, chopped or 1 tablespoon dried
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste (optional)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon cracked pepper
¾ cup water (if using dried herbs)
For Lebanese Garlic-Tahini Tarator Sauce:
½ cup garlic cloves (1 large head or 2 small heads), peeled and trimmed
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup neutral oil, like sunflower or canola, divided
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup prepared tahini
DIRECTIONS
1. To make the roasted squash, preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Prepare a sheet pan with parchment or rub with oil.
2. Rub the squash quarters with oil and place them on the sheet pan, one cut side down. Roast for 15 minutes.
3. Flip the squash to the other cut side. Continue to roast until the squash is tender and browning on the edges, about 10 minutes. If the squash is done before the filling and sauce, turn off the oven and hold warm.
4. While the squash is roasting, prepare the filling and sauce. In a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat, stir and cook the lamb with the grated onion and carrot until the meat is cooked through.
5. Add the herbs and remove from heat, cover to keep warm. If using dried herbs, add water and simmer on low until the water is reduced, about 5 minutes, before removing from heat.
6. To prepare the sauce, place the garlic and salt in the bowl of a food processor or blender. Process until finely minced. Scrape the sides and blend again to make sure the garlic is a consistently fine texture.
7. While the processor is running, slowly drizzle in 1 tablespoon of oil until the garlic is emulsified. Then, slowly drizzle in the cider vinegar. After the vinegar, slowly drizzle in the remaining oil and the tahini. If the sauce seizes a little, just keep blending, it will soften.
8. Spoon the warm filling into the prepared squash and drizzle with the sauce.
Check out more recipes available online!
EDIBLEMADISON.COM/RECIPES
Illustration by Cricket Redman
Red kuri and kabocha squash on the vine, ready to be harvested and enjoyed all winter.
Creative Kitchen
By Marissa DeGroot
They say we eat with our eyes, but for most home cooks, presentation often falls third in line behind taste and “just getting dinner served before everyone gets hangry.” But if you’re searching for a few ideas this winter for how you can elevate your plates, these culinary creatives are sharing their favorite ways to wow everyone around the table without having to break out the tweezers or edible gold leaf.
by Sunny Frantz
Photo
LAUREN MONTELBANO
The Vibrant Veg
Top your dish with microgreens to add a pop of color and nutrients. In particular, Montelbano loves citrusy sorrel (pictured above), deep red amaranth, bright cilantro, and peppery radish microgreens.
ITARU NAGANO
Fairchild
“A wise person once told me, the difference between fine dining and everything else is a couple of purées on a plate.” It was told to him in jest, but Nagano still suggests arming yourself with a plastic squeeze bottle and getting creative with the blender.
ANDREW JACK
Private Chef & Food Consultant
Jack’s secret ingredient is time. “Move the food around [on the plate] and try all kinds of different compositions, eventually you’ll notice a pattern of what looks good and what doesn’t.”
COLTON SCHARA Cadre
If you’re looking to get creative with your cocktails, Schara’s favorite tools for garnishes are his craft scissors and small cookie molds. He can quickly shape seasonal produce or citrus peels into elegant eye-catchers.
Unforgettable Serve
Aged even more Aged
Made with care
Crafted in Spain
THE EXCELLENCE OF EUROPEAN D.O. CAVA AND JAMÓN CONSORCIOSERRANO
Crafted in Spain, perfected by time
In a world that often prioritizes speed over substance, there remains proof that good things, and excellent taste, take time. D.O. Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are two such treasures, each representing a unique blend of Spanish tradition and taste created with time and perfected over centuries.
Cava has earned its place among the world’s finest sparkling wines, yet it remains wonderfully versatile. Whether paired with a simple salad, a casual meal or a celebratory toast, Cava brings a touch of elegance to every occasion. What makes Cava de Guarda Superior unique is that it is produced using the traditional method where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.
This meticulous process, lasting a minimum of 18 months, is carefully overseen by the D.O. Cava regulatory body, ensuring that each bottle upholds the highest standards of quality and authenticity. Made from organic vineyards that are over 10 years old, Cava de Guarda Superior reveals its craftsmanship with every pour. As the delicate, harmonious bubbles rise to the surface, you can truly appreciate the time and care it took to perfect them!
Similarly, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is more than just a drycured ham. This exquisite product is made using traditional curing
methods which takes a minimum of 12 months to deliver a delicate and rich flavor. Each production is upheld to the rigorous standards of the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español, which ensures that every piece of Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bearing the seal is of exceptional quality. Like Cava, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is not merely an accompaniment to festive tables; it is a versatile delight that can elevate everyday meals with its complex flavors and delicate texture.
Both Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are perfect examples of how time-honored craftsmanship, underpinned by the European Union’s commitment to quality and tradition, creates products that are unmatched in their category. They are not just crafted in Spain; they are perfected by time, offering a taste of excellence that is both accessible and extraordinary. Whether enjoyed on a special occasion or as part of your daily life, Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bring the best of Europe to your table.
Learn more on our website
THE GUIDE TO Giving Local
Edible Madison is here to help you find unique gifts for everyone on your list. When you shop locally this holiday season, you are not just bringing joy to your loved ones. You are making a difference for the food artisans, small shop owners and skilled makers in our community.
Local Libations
For the beverage lover in your life there’s nowhere better than Wisconsin to discover something new and interesting. From locally roasted coffees to cocktail kits, these beverage-themed options are worth a “cheers!”
OLD SUGAR DISTILLERY GIFT BOXES
Old Sugar Distillery’s world class and locally made products come perfectly matched in gift boxes that will please every palate. Their popular Brandy Old Fashioned Set (which includes Old Sugar’s Brandy Station, homemade cocktail cherries, Angostura bitters and their cocktail book) and Bourbon & Bourbon Spiced Pecans Set make a great gift for the mixologists in your life and are just $50. Gift boxes and more can be found at their distillery tasting room on East Main Street in Madison.
Old Sugar Distillery oldsugardistillery.com • $$$
SIREN SHRUB SAMPLER FOR CURIOUS PALATES
If you want to share a love of shrub, this sampler pack from Siren Shrub, featuring four of their flavors in pocket sizes, is just what you’re looking for! “These minis are perfect for the shrub curious and destined to be your best friend’s new favorite thing,” says co-founder Layne Cozzolino. The pack includes 4-oz. bottles of the Tart Cherry, Basil, Jalapeno Lime, and their seasonal limited release shrub, available through their online store. Siren Shrub Company LLC sirenshrubs.com • $$
JBC COFFEE ROASTERS COFFEE
Whether shopping for a coffee connoisseur or casual caffeinator, JBC Coffee Roasters will have a high quality and unique specialty coffee just for them. This highly decorated coffee roaster is a five-time Good Food Award winner and was named one of the best coffee roasters in the nation by Forbes and Gear Patrol. Grab a bag of their Twisted V.9 Espresso, Kolla Bolcha #6 Ethiopia, or Wilton Benitez Java Colombia from their website to give the gift of sustainable, quality-driven coffee this season.
JBC Coffee Roasters jbccoffeeroasters.com • $$
WONDERSTATE COFFEE’S ORGANIC DRIFTLESS BLEND
Recently awarded Roaster of the Year by Roast Magazine, Wonderstate Coffee’s Organic Driftless Blend is your everyday cup of coffee elevated with smooth, deep flavors of plum, toffee and warming cocoa. It is both satisfyingly dark yet light enough to taste all the flavors of this unique coffee from one of their favorite producers in Peru. Pick up their best-selling brew online, at local grocers or at their Wonderstate cafes in Madison, Viroqua and Bayfield.
Wonderstate Coffee wonderstate.com • $
TELSAAN TEA CAST IRON TEAPOTS
West of Madison in Mount Horeb, you’ll find a shop made for your favorite tea lover. Telsaan Tea is a local, independent loose leaf tea store showcasing a variety of tea and tea wares including stunning cast iron teapots. They come in several colors, styles and sizes but all have stainless steel mesh tea infusers and enamel interiors, making them easy to clean. “It’s something most tea lovers do not already own but they’ve wanted for a long time,” says owner Erin Ulrich.
Telsaan Tea telsaan.com • $$$
SPONSORED CONTENT
Shops to Love
HEDGE MEADOW HERBS + APOTHECARY
Sometimes you don’t know exactly what you want and you need a great local shop to help you find a little inspiration. These spots are sure to provide something for everyone on your list.
BRANCH + DAUGHTER
QUALITY MEATS AND MARKET
This small, woman-owned business in Mazomanie is more than simply an herb shop. Step inside Hedge Meadow Herbs + Apothecary and you’ll be transported to a stunning world of hand-blended loose leaf teas, herbal remedies, bulk herbs, small-batch botanical skincare items, herbal books, gifts, local art and much more. “Our handcrafted teas are beautiful to behold and a delight to drink,” says owner Clare Kritter. Visit the storefront just 30 minutes from Madison or shop online for truly impactful presents.
Readers rejoice at the wide variety yet carefully curated selection of new and used books at downtown Madison’s indie bookstore, Lake City Books. Here you’ll find books and gifts for all ages, including a large selection of children’s books, puzzles, candles, and other gifts by local artists. Dive into their displays featuring local authors and artists or search their real-time online inventory if you have a specific publication in mind. Visit the Lake City Books storefront Tuesday through Sunday just off Madison’s capitol square.
Lake City Books lakecitybooks.com • $
Step into this Windsor meat counter and eatery and you’ll be surrounded by all things local, sustainable and delicious. Whether you’re looking to stun with an impressive cut of 100% Black Angus or Wagyu Beef, or nab some local handcrafted cheeses, jams, honey, wines and gifts as stocking stuffers, the Branch + Daughter storefront has it all. Shop online for their bountiful Charcuterie Queens Boards and gift boxes filled with artisan meat, cheese and small-batch goods.
Branch + Daughter, Quality Meats and Market branchanddaughter.com • $$
CEREMONY GOODS
OLIVE OIL & BALSAMIC VINEGAR
Head to Main Street in historic Downtown La Crosse to find a cozy shop filling your low-waste living needs. In person, and at their online store, you’ll discover Ceremony Goods olive oil and balsamic vinegar that help elevate everyday moments into extraordinary celebrations. Their sustainably-sourced oils and vinegars serve as impressive yet pragmatic gifts for the home chef or perennial host. “By choosing Ceremony Goods… you’re joining a community dedicated to supporting local artisans and celebrating the art of food,” say owners Josh and Mary Larson.
Larson’s General ceremonygoods.com • $$
SPONSORED CONTENT
Giftable Goodies
LANDMARK CREAMERY GIFT BOXES
If you’re looking to impress your foodie friends, Landmark Creamery has carefully curated gift boxes filled with locally-crafted and unique bites. Their best-selling Midwest Classic Gift Collection boasts a collection of Wisconsin cheeses along with preserves and crackers to fill a holiday cheese board. Or choose their Taste of Landmark Creamery box for a variety of Landmark’s high-quality, handcrafted sheep milk cheeses. Shop online and ship anywhere in the country or visit their storefront and aging caves in Paoli.
Landmark Creamery landmarkcreamery.com • $$$
ISTHMUS EATS MEAL KIT GIFT CERTIFICATES
Isthmus Eats makes it easy if you’re shopping for someone who loves to cook and eat great food. Their gift certificates for locally-crafted meal kits means your loved ones can explore new recipes without all the meal planning and shopping. With new meal selections every week and free delivery in Dane County, Isthmus Eats’ meal kits are a great way to give not only a delicious meal but also a fun culinary experience.
Isthmus Eats
IsthmusEats.com • $$$
These local growers and makers are taking practical holiday presents to a new level. Food and personal care gifts are made even more special when they have been locally grown and handcrafted right in your own community.
PASTURE AND PLENTY MEAL KIT SUBSCRIPTION
Give the gift of easy, delicious meals that will help ease your loved ones into the New Year. Pasture and Plenty’s meal kit subscriptions include three chef-prepared meals each week—one cook kit, one farm-to-freezer, and one ready to heat-and-eat meal—all delivered to your door or available for pick-up at their Madison shop. Local, seasonal products shine in their weekly rotating menu. Subscribe online or grab a gift card for the perfect stocking stuffer.
Pasture and Plenty pastureandplenty.com • $$$$
BARE BOTANICS
COCONUT VANILLA SALT
SCRUB
Give the gift of silky smooth skin this cold, winter season. Handcrafted in Middleton, Bare Botanicals’ salt scrub is loaded with all natural moisturizers and sea salt which gently exfoliates and moisturizes without that dreaded greasy feeling. Their best-selling coconut vanilla salt scrub comes in a 24 oz jar which will bring divine smells and silky skin for months. Shop for this and much more at their online store or through Amazon.
Bare Botanics barebotanics.co • $$
DOUDLAH FARMS ORGANICS GIFT BOXES
Fill your loved ones’ pantries this holiday season with organic, nutrient-dense and delicious beans, popcorn and more. Doudlah Farms’ Coolbeans Gift Boxes come packed with recipe cards and four varieties of their dried beans grown right on their regenerative organic farm in Evansville. Or for the baker in your life, check out their Baker’s Basket filled with their milled products, sunflower kernels and honey varieties. Shop online and give the gift of healthy, local food this winter season. Doudlah Farms Organics doudlahfarms.com • $$$
GARDEN RAINBOW FUSILLI
Dalla Terra Pasta in Italian means "pasta from the land" and their Garden Rainbow Fusilli is truly just that. Made with Midwest-grown organic durum wheat and flavored with whole vegetables, herbs and spices sourced from Wisconsin farms when possible, their Garden Rainbow Fusilli is handcrafted by husband-wife team Liam and Kithara Connolly, second-generation pasta makers. Their wide variety of dried pasta and more can be found through their online store, at specialty stores across Wisconsin, or visit them at their shop in Appleton.
Dalla Terra Pasta dallaterrapasta.com • $
You already eat farm-to-table. Why not imbibe locally too? Try these Wisconsin beverage makers for some of the most creative refreshments around.
Balanced Rock Winery
Family-owned boutique winery located on the doorstep of Devil’s Lake State Park. Stop in for wine, food, beer and music.
Stop in to the Grumpy Troll in Mount Horeb to try one of their 12 rotating, handcrafted microbrews made onsite. Their taproom is the perfect place to gather with friends and family or host any event! Be sure to try one of their delicious smokehouse offerings from their award-winning pitmaster.
Since 1994, Madison’s Original Brewpub has served up awardwinning craft beers alongside local and global pub fare. They feature a rotation of classic European varieties, modern styles, and cask-conditioned ales. Find six-packs of your favorite Dane recipes at local retailers and all pub locations.
GREATDANEPUB.COM @greatdanepub /greatdanedowntown
Featuring Black Earth Vanilla Porter
THE WINTER TABLE
A GATHERING OF LOCAL GOODS AND LUXURIES
HOSTED BY ANAWAY PLACE
A hidden gem of Southwest Wisconsin, Anaway Place is a collection of elegantly designed cabins thoughtfully arranged over 110 acres of the stunning Driftless region. Whether you’re seeking a romantic getaway, soulful retreat with friends, or gathering place for family, Anaway Place offers beautiful spaces for all seasons, from the Meadow House with room for two and 360-degree views of woods and prairie to The Barn, an ideal space for family and friends to stay together. Pause the agenda, cozy up by a slow-burning campfire, and let this restorative setting help you take time for what’s most important.
21558 Candlewood Ln, Richland Center | anaway.com
Photo by Nick Garcia
1. Venison Picante Salami | A nitrate-free salami crafted with venison and humanely raised pork. Driftless Provisions | driftlessprovisions.com
2. The Hangout Platter | A perfectly balanced, beautiful and delicious charcuterie and cheese platter. | Tricky Foods | 121 E. Lakeside St., Madison NotSoTrickyFoods.com
3. 5-Piece Chocolate Boxes | Delicious handcrafted 5-piece confection boxes. | Madison Chocolate Company | 5521 Odana Road, Madison madisonchocolatecompany.com
4. Oak Ridge Red | Semi-dry red wine made with estate-grown Marechal Foch grapes. | Wild Hills Winery | 30940 Oak Ridge Dr., Muscoda wildhillswinery.com
5. Coconut Vanilla Sea Salt Scrub | An all-natural scrub hand poured with love from Middleton! Bare Botanics | barebotanics.co
6. Santa Lovey | The perfect first Christmas gift wrapped in organic cotton. | My Wild Child Boutique | 210 S. Main St. A, Viroqua mywildchildboutique.com
7. Straight Bourbon Whiskey | A Straight Bourbon Whiskey blended from select Wisconsin Bourbon barrels. Round River Distilling | roundriverdistilling.com
8. Wisconsin Supper Club, Artisan Dark, Driftless Indulgence Collections | Themed fine chocolate collections featuring Wisconsin shared experiences. Driftless Chocolates | 209 E. Main St. #E, Mount Horeb | driftlesschocolates.com
NOURISH LAURA POE MATHES
Healthy and Beautiful School Lunches
The school year can feel long for parents (and probably kiddos, too), with daily tasks adding up that can start to feel a bit mundane, including making lunch each day. These rhythms are important but can certainly get old. It can be easy to rely on ultra processed, pre-made foods when you are in a lunch-making rut, but these foods don’t give kids what they need for focus, energy and learning throughout their day. One way to combat this is to add more beauty to the humdrum, and a perfect place to start is in a healthy, eye-catching homemade lunch.
Here are some ways to make your homemade lunches more balanced and beautiful:
Mix it up, but with a plan: Meal planning for school lunches can streamline the process and take out extra decisionmaking in the morning. This also helps to avoid lunch burnout for kiddos. Planning by the week or even month is a great way to ensure kids are getting necessary food groups and nutrients each day, in the right quantities and frequencies. For example, make a plan to have fish once per week or aim for ten different vegetables per month.
Emphasize protein: Many kids' lunches are seriously lacking in protein, something they need to grow, learn and thrive. While peanut butter and jelly sandwiches are great, they don’t actually offer that much protein and can displace higherprotein options. I am not suggesting that PB&Js are bad, but this is better as a once or twice a week choice to make room for more nutrient-dense options. Nuts and seeds are great for snacks or condiments, but really cannot replace the nutrition found in animal products that kids need for growth and development.
Meat, eggs and dairy are the most nutritious sources of protein—this could be all-natural lunch meat, tuna or salmon, hard-boiled eggs, egg salad, Greek yogurt, cottage cheese, summer sausage or meat sticks. These options could go on a sandwich or wrap, pair with whole-grain crackers or stand alone with a bit of mayo or mustard.
Artful fruits and veggies: Besides adding beauty and novelty to the day, an artfully made meal can make trying new (or not so favorite) foods more exciting and appealing to kids. One place we see
this often is with produce. When veggies are cut into easy-to-eat sticks or fun shapes, especially if paired with a yummy dip like hummus or homemade ranch dressing, kids are more likely to eat them. This works great with fruit, too, though it is often much easier to get kids to eat fruits than vegetables! Chopped salads or coleslaw that stand up to waiting until lunchtime without getting soggy, as well as seaweed snacks or nori used as a wrap instead of a tortilla (think homemade sushi, but easier!), are all tasty ways to get more veggies in at lunch. The more colorful the produce, the better, both for nutrition and eye appeal. Don’t be afraid of adding plenty of dips, sauces and dressings to make vegetables more palatable for kiddos, too! If made with the right ingredients, these condiments add healthy fats kid brains need to thrive.
Dairy daily: Kids need lots of calciumrich dairy foods each day to support growing bodies. If you are packing their lunch, chances are that they are not getting a carton of milk. To be sure they are getting their calcium needs met here are a few ideas: simply pack insulated bottle of whole milk (be sure it is a leak-proof vessel), or get
Left and center: photos by Marissa DeGroot. Bottom right: photo by Sunny Frantz
creative and send smoothies, homemade chocolate milk, string cheese or cheese cubes, cottage cheese, or yogurt with or without added goodies like
It’s no secret that kids want something sweet with their school lunch, but there are ways to make even this part of the meal nutrient-dense. Fresh fruit is an easy choice, but if you want to mix it up, a fruit and yogurt parfait, low-sugar granola/ protein bar, a homemade cookie or other treats are fine to add in small quantities. Avoid regularly adding candy or supersweet items made with food colorings and artificial ingredients, opting for sweet treats with more nutrition in them instead.
Make it beautiful: Japanese culture has embraced this need for meals, even to-go ones, to be nutritionally complete and aesthetically pleasing. The practice and art of bento achieves this, by ensuring that each component of the lunch is pleasing to the eye and balanced to meet childrens’ needs. There are many variations on bento, ranging from simple ingredients placed in separate compartments to elaborate items made to look like characters or animals.
You can add pizzazz to the containers, not just the food itself. Whether it is a classic bento box or several smaller, separate containers, find stainless steel jars with
colors your kid loves, as well as a lunch box that they help pick out with a design they are excited about. The package can be beautiful with the homemade meal as a gift inside each day. Don’t forget the sweet note if you have an extra minute in the morning!
I know how chaotic school mornings can be, so set realistic expectations on the time and effort you have to put into making your kiddo’s lunches. You don’t have to attempt making school lunches fit the “bento” aesthetic or put hours in each day if that does not work for your family. To save time, you can also always rely on leftovers to toss in a school lunch! If your child loved dinner the night before, that is a great way to prevent food waste and give them a nutritious lunch, plus save you time. Most leftovers are great served cold, but heating them up in the morning and putting them in an insulated container works well, too.
By using a variety of colors and textures and packaging the food neatly you can start to beautify a simple lunch. Even for adults, meals presented in a careful way that’s pleasing to the eye makes eating healthfully more appealing, so apply these principles for your lunch as well. Add some fun and cooperation by having the kiddos help make their lunch, doing what you can the night before. When children help prepare meals, they are more likely to try new foods and get excited about food and cooking. With a bit of planning, you can make each school day’s lunch a feast for the senses, ensuring your kiddo gets the nutrition they need and adding a bit of beauty to each day.
Simple, Beautiful School Lunch Ideas
Here are three ideas to get you started. To switch it up, follow this template and go with what you have and what your family loves: protein + whole grain/complex carbohydrate + vegetable + fruit + dairy + and a little extra thrown in for a snack if you need it, being sure to include plenty of healthy fats in the lunch
Nitrate-free ham and cheddar cheese on whole grain sandwich bread
Coleslaw
Yogurt with berries
Low sugar granola/protein bar
Tuna salad and brown rice crackers
Carrot and celery sticks with homemade ranch (find the recipe at ediblemadison.com)
String cheese or cheese cubes
Piece of fresh fruit
Sourdough bread and butter
Cucumber slices
Gelatin fruit jigglers (see recipe on next page)
Beef snack stick
Leftover soup (Chili, chicken noodle, etc.)
Gelatin Fruit Jigglers
A super nutritious twist on a classic from my childhood: Jell-O! You get your sweet fix but pack in lots of fruit and collagen for a nutritional bonus. Use any juice or combination of juices you like, and cut it into shapes to add a bit of whimsy to the lunch box.
Serves 6–8
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cooling time: 8 hours to set
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin powder
2 tablespoons water
4 cups fruit juice and/or vegetable juice, any kind will work
1 cup fruit, fresh or frozen, cut into small pieces (small berries like blueberries can be left whole)
2 tablespoons honey (optional)
DIRECTIONS
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the gelatin powder and water. Set aside.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat the juice over medium heat and bring to a boil.
3. Remove the juice from the heat and stir in the gelatin mixture, stirring to dissolve.
4. Stir in the fruit and honey.
5. Pour the mixture into a 9 x 13-inch glass baking dish. Cover and refrigerate overnight, or about eight hours, until set.
6. When the gelatin has set, use cookie cutters to cut it into fun shapes or simply cut into squares.
7. Store in airtight containers in the fridge until ready to serve. Can be served as is, but these can also be extra special topped with a bit of homemade whipped cream!
Visit ediblemadison.com to find Laura’s recipe for Homemade Ranch with Yogurt to add even more delicious food to the lunch box.
by Sunny
Photo
Frantz
Fairchild
By Marissa DeGroot |
Photos by Nick Garcia
“I always wanted to have a creative outlet,” says Itaru Nagano. “As humans we need that.”
Over the past four years that outlet has been Fairchild where Nagano, along with fellow chef and co-owner Andrew Kroeger, curate an ever-evolving menu featuring some of the most inventive and deeply delicious dishes in the state.
Their cozy restaurant on Madison’s Monroe Street offers upscale yet approachable fare, centered on local and seasonal ingredients. What is abundant and seasonally at its peak will likely find its way onto the Fairchild menu, which often changes daily. Up to four or five dishes can rotate each week depending on the time of year, with more changes happening as Wisconsin transitions from one season to the next.
“I always wanted to have a creative outlet. As humans we need that.”
The secret to their seemingly endless pool of creativity is quite simple according to the two soft- spoken and humble chefs. “For me, I usually just buy a bunch of stuff and then come up with something,” says Kroeger. Nagano finds his culinary inspiration in much the same way. “I go to the market and see what they have and then go from there,” he echos.
Local habanada peppers (heatless habaneros) and sugar cube cantaloupe bring bright pops of color and flavor to a hiramasa snack, and Dreamfarm’s fresh chèvre shines alongside blistered cherry tomatoes and sofrito braised kale as the summer season comes to a close. But as Wisconsin trades autumn leaves for blankets of snow, even these James Beard Award-winning chefs find themselves challenged by the limited local produce.
Left: Nehmer Family Farm delicata squash takes center stage in this appetizer along with apple cider, moody blue and sage.
Right Top: Itaru Nagano preps for a Sunday night dinner service.
Middle: Nagano delicately plates a seasonal appetizer.
Right
Right Bottom: Peterson beef short rib ravioli are beautifully crafted.
“It forces you to be a little more creative with things,” says Kroeger. Winter often finds a menu with more meat-forward, comforting dishes and the chefs continually finding ways to keep winter squash, potatoes and cabbage intriguing palates.
Pinpointing the source of their culinary ingenuity is a struggle for Kroeger and Nagano because, for them, the creative process has no beginning or end. “We’re always working on something,” says Nagano. “I’m always thinking about food.”
The pair, who met while working together at Madison’s L’Etoile, share both the operational and creative responsibilities of Fairchild. Kroeger oversees the pasta and wine programs while Nagano develops most of the entrees. They typically split development of the snacks, appetizers, sides and desserts.
Nagano’s dishes in particular bring with them an aesthetic influenced by his classical training in French culinary techniques and early years of making sushi and Japanese food. “I always liked that kind of style,” says Nagano of his plating style that embraces the artistry of Japanese cuisine.
Dishes are balanced, beautiful in their minimalism and exude a deep respect for the ingredients. In that way, a meal at Fairchild is a delight for all senses and a true celebration of what each season brings.
So while frigid February often has Nagano and Kroeger dreaming of summer tomatoes and crisp fall apples, perhaps it is the fierce rolling of Wisconsin’s seasons that keeps their creative energy flowing—bringing novel dishes to Fairchild at a dizzying yet inspiring pace.
Top Left: Nagano opened Fairchild along with co-owner Andrew Kroeger in 2020 on Madison's Monroe Street.
Top Right: Happy Valley beets are surrounded by the vibrant color and flavors of butternut squash and angostura bitters, fenugreek and Dreamfarm chèvre.
Bottom: Kroeger oversees both the pasta and wine program at Fairchild.
Experience Peak Flavor with In-Season Produce
Stock your fridge through Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)
BY TESS ROMANSKI, FAIRSHARE CSA COALITION
Although winter feels like it just arrived, farmers are already getting ready for another busy growing season! Colder weather is often when farmers take a break from the physically demanding peak-season harvest grind, but now is also the time when farmers are purchasing seeds, organizing crop plans, and getting ready for the year ahead.
One of the simplest (and most delicious) ways to support your local farmers is through Community Supported Agriculture, or CSA. Similar to a subscription box, members purchase a “share” at the beginning of the growing season and in return, receive a weekly or bi-weekly box of farm-fresh foods—carefully grown, harvested, and packed by the farmer—all season long.
CSA lets you buy food directly from a grower near you—stocking your fridge with the season’s freshest produce while supporting a local farmer. Signing up in advance of the growing season helps farmers plan for the season ahead and cover the initial annual costs of farm operation. And these colder winter months are when shares start filling up!
Along with amazing varieties and stellar flavors from farm-fresh food, other benefits of CSA typically include:
· Farm newsletters with each delivery, including notes about what’s happening on the farm, what produce you’re receiving that week, cooking tips, recipes, and more.
Opportunities to visit the farm and attend farm events.
· A personal connection to the hands that grow your food. You know exactly where your food is coming from, who grew it, and can rest assured that it was picked within days of getting to your table.
A variety of options to get your produce, including: extended season shares (spring, fall, winter), customizable shares (pick what goes in your box each week), market shares (pick what you want directly at the farmers’ market), and various share sizes to fit your household’s needs.
· Payment plans to spread the share cost across the season.
Financial support for eligible households through Partner Shares, a program that provides cost assistance to purchase CSA shares (visit csacoalition.org/partnershares).
Knowing your farmer uses sustainable and organic farming practices.
Sign up for a weekly farm box to explore local flavor, build healthy habits and never run out of produce. Learn more about CSA and start planning your 2025 veggie season at csacoalition.org/about-csa
Not just for veggies!
While the CSA model started with members signing up to receive shares of vegetables, many farms now offer add-on shares of other farm products in addition to produce. By adding on farm products like apples, bread, coffee, eggs, meat, flowers and more, CSA members are able to check off items from their grocery list all in one stop from a farmer they know!
By Hannah Wente
Table escapes
In January 2022, Nikki Hageman and Kaitlin Sherman launched Don’t Cook for Cowboys, their collaborative dinner party side hustle. They started by hosting gatherings for friends and quickly expanded to restaurant pop-ups and private events where they partnered with chefs to throw dinner parties, complete with the perfect place-settings.
Photos courtesy of Don't Cook for Cowboys
Photos courtesy of Don't Cook for Cowboys
“Setting tables is this ongoing evolution,” says Sherman. “It’s been around for hundreds of years. It’s a timeless way to create and connect.”
One of their favorite events was when they co-hosted a rodeo disco diner-themed brunch with a nod to Dolly Parton at Weary Traveler with chefs from Maybe Lately’s of Viroqua.
“We do not cook,” says Hageman. “[So] restaurants and individuals reach out to us or we reach out to them. It’s a very collaborative way of creating an event.”
Chefs love being able to create a once-in-a-lifetime menu centered around the party’s theme. Hageman and Sherman lean into the event space and individual words to find inspiration for a theme.
When setting up an event, they bring it all to the table—literally.
“seTTing Tables is This ongoing evoluTion, iT's been around for hundreds of years. iT's a Timeless way To creaTe and connecT.“
-KaiTlin sherman
“It takes a lot of time for us—it’s a lot of shifting, moving things around, playing with different elements, heights and textures,” says Sherman.
The two have very different aesthetic preferences, which benefits them by not having the design pulled too far in one direction.
“We go off of feels,” says Hageman. “We’ll show up with everything and then it’s the two of us bouncing things around on the table until it feels right. We have an eclectic, chaotic style.”
Both love adding tiny details and surprises throughout a table landscape.
“We excel in the intimate details,” says Sherman. “Guests say, ‘Oh my gosh, there’s a box and there’s something in it.’ It’s the unique details that we think about.”
Most of the table settings are created from thrift store or antique shop finds.
“I never felt like a creative person until I started doing table setting,” says Sherman. “I was in awe and shock that I could push the envelope of creativity. I find a lot of meaning and purpose in it.”
Their goal is to create spaces where people feel included, special and like they’re having a novel experience.
“Both of us were coming out of relationships when we started this,” says Hageman. “I had moved back from Milwaukee. It was tough to make new friends in our 30s.”
Many people attend their events solo because they just moved to Madison or are looking to meet new people—a spirit Sherman and Hageman love. The phrase “Don’t Cook for Cowboys” means don’t put all your time and energy into your partner and neglect other relationships and your community.
“At the end of the day, I want people to come out of it with new friends and genuinely meet people,” Hageman says.
seTTing
an
holiday Table
Hageman and Sherman offer tips for creating inviting, holiday spaces.
1. Use lots of tapered candles—it makes a space feel comfy and cozy. Grab a mix of colors and heights. Crystal candleholders help add flair. Hageman and Sherman find theirs at thrift stores.
2. Swap out flower centerpieces in favor of winter vegetables. Kale and cabbage are seasonal produce that can be every bit as beautiful as a bouquet.
3. Layer napkins between small plates and dinner plates rather than placing them beside the plates.
4. Use cordial glasses instead of typical glassware.
5. Use large silver platters for serving.
6. Have little snacks on the table. Bread, crackers and cheeses are something people can pick apart to keep them from getting too hungry while you’re in the kitchen getting ready.
7. Always have a fully stocked pantry—pickled anything pairs well with cheese. Have fancy mustard and sardines on hand for the holidays.
8. Mix and match plates to add interest by playing with patterns and textures.
9. Tie bows around silverware, candlesticks and other items.
Top left: Pears adorned with pearls steal the show on this cozy holiday table.
Top right: An assortment of snacks, from olives to tinned fish, keep guests from getting too hungry before dinner.
Bottom right: Don't Cook for Cowboys' last dinner party of 2023 sparkled with tiny disco balls and silver candleholders.
Photos by Sunny Frantz
Feast Your Eyes
A good cook knows eating begins well before we actually take that first bite of food. The aromas that flow out of the kitchen prepare our bodies for what’s coming next and the presentation of a dish invites us in further. Plates, bowls and serving platters provide a blank canvas, an opportunity to build a dish that is interesting, appetizing and at times even playful. These six chefs take an artistic approach to dining that is reflected in all of their recipes. Their creativity not only honors the ingredients, it also brings a little more beauty and fun to our winter tables.
Ants-On-A-Log Soup
Nook has always taken a fun, creative and playful approach to their food. Plates frequently bring together colors, textures and ingredients in ways that leave you wondering,“Wait, what did I just eat?” Here, Julie and Noah Przybylski combine some of their favorite winter vegetables (celery and celeriac!) with the flavors of the classic 90s kid snack “Ants on a Log.” The soup is finished with unseasoned, unsweetened whipped cream to add a rich textural element, and garnished with none other than a peanut buttery piece of celery that can be enjoyed between bites of soup.
Serves 8
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 1-2 hours
INGREDIENTS
For Soup:
3 large garlic cloves, peeled
1 small onion, roughly chopped
1 cup roughly chopped celery
1 large celeriac (celery root), washed, root end removed, and roughly chopped
⅓ cup creamy peanut butter
2 ounces golden raisins
4 teaspoons sugar
4 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme
1 teaspoon celery seeds
¾ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
¾ teaspoon red pepper flakes
4 cups heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
For Garnish:
4 celery stalks, cut into 8 (4-inch)
¼ cup creamy peanut butter
1 tablespoon honey roasted peanuts, chopped
1 tablespoon raisins
1 cup heavy whipping cream
DIRECTIONS
1. Combine the garlic, onion, celery, celeriac, peanut butter, raisins, sugar, salt, thyme, celery seeds, peppercorns, red pepper flakes, and cream in a large stockpot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the contents are tender, about 30 minutes. Stir every 10 minutes.
2. While the soup cooks, make the ants-on-a-log garnish: Spread peanut butter over the celery sticks and dot with honey roasted peanuts and raisins. Set aside.
3. In a mixing bowl fitted with a whisk attachment, whisk the heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Chill in the fridge until ready to serve.
4. Blend the soup using a high-powered blender or immersion blender until smooth. Strain soup through a fine mesh strainer and add the lemon juice. Serve warm with a generous dollop of whipped cream and the ants-on-a-log garnish.
Recipe by Julie & Noah Przybylski of Nook
Honey & Cumin Glazed Carrots
Ethan Kaercher created this recipe with a pretty firm vision in mind: “a deconstruction of a carrot that is in turn reconstructed from the ‘ground up’ to loosely resemble a carrot patch sprouting from the plate.” The plating is definitely enough to get you excited to devour this dish, and the three different preparations of carrots (pickled, pureed, and glazed) will have you thinking in new ways about everyone’s favorite winter root crop.
Serves 4-6
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS
2 bunches of carrots with green tops (if available), rinsed and peeled
½ cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup water
1 teaspoon salt, divided ½ cup honey, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil
¾ teaspoon pepper, divided
8 tablespoons salted butter, divided ½ cup vegetable stock
1 cup panko
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
½ teaspoon ground cumin
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat the oven to 350° F.
For Pickled Carrots:
2. Use a mandoline or sharp knife to thinly slice two carrots into coins. Place these in a medium bowl.
3. Combine the vinegar, water, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ cup honey in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat and stir until the salt and honey are dissolved. Pour the mixture over the carrots coins, ensuring they are fully submerged. Set aside.
4. Cut the remaining carrots into 2-inch sections.
For Carrot Puree:
5. Place half of the cut carrots on a parchment-lined baking sheet and toss with olive oil and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Roast in the preheated oven until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove the carrots from the oven.
6. While the carrots are roasting, heat 6 tablespoons of butter in a large pan over medium high heat until bubbly and browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly, then strain the browned butter into a small bowl; strain and reserve the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
7. Place the cooled roasted carrots in a blender with 2 tablespoons of browned butter and the vegetable stock. Blend until smooth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Set aside.
8. In the same pan used to brown the butter, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium low heat. Add the panko and stir until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Place the panko in a small bowl and toss with reserved browned butter bits, cilantro and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper to taste. Set aside.
For Glazed Carrots:
9. In the same pan, combine remaining 2 tablespoons brown butter, ¼ cup honey and ¼ teaspoon salt over mediumhigh heat, stirring until smooth. Add the remaining carrots and toss to coat. Cover and reduce the heat to medium. Reduce heat and simmer until the carrots are tender and glazed, about 15 minutes. Season with cumin.
10. To plate, scoop a large spoonful of the carrot puree in the middle of a plate. Arrange the glazed carrots on top of the puree. Place the pickled carrots on top of the glazed carrots and garnish with carrot top greens and toasted panko.
Recipe by Ethan Kaercher of Mad City Chefs
Brown-Butter Celebration Cabbage
Growing up, cabbage was a big wintertime staple at Chance Spivey’s house. Most of the time it was fried in a pan with a little butter, salt and pepper. It was very simple and yet, very delicious. This recipe builds on that same simple concept, but with a little more flair. For Spivey, that's what makes cooking fun. He loves to take the things he grew up eating, and dress them up like he’s going to a dinner party. He believes a beautiful local cabbage deserves to be dressed up for at least one night and put in the center of the table.
Serves 3-4
Prep time: 1 hour
Cook time: 20 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 small head of cabbage, stem removed and halved
5 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
6 teaspoons sugar, divided
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup water
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
3 garlic cloves, smashed
3 tablespoons butter
2 cups vegetable stock
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
3 tablespoons toasted breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon capers, drained
2 tablespoons fresh dill, optional
DIRECTIONS
1. Place the cabbage halves cut-side up on a baking sheet and season with 4 teaspoons of salt and 2 teaspoons of sugar, working to get in between the leaves and also ensuring some salt and sugar coats the outside of the cabbage. Set the cabbage aside for an hour.
2. Place the shallot slices in a small bowl. Combine the vinegar, water, the remaining teaspoon of salt, and the remaining 4 teaspoons of sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly until the salt and sugar dissolves. Pour the mixture over the shallots and let sit until you are ready to serve.
3. Once the cabbage is finished resting, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
4. Heat a large skillet or cast-iron skillet on medium high heat until it’s searing hot. Add the oil and then place the cabbage cut-side down in the pan. Carefully sear the cabbage for 3 to 4 minutes until the cabbage gets a golden brown crust—it's OK if the cabbage gets a little charred—and then flip it over in the pan. Add the smashed garlic and butter. Continue cooking over medium high heat, basting the cabbage, until the butter has started to brown. Add the stock and mustard, allowing it to simmer momentarily on the burner.
5. Place the pan in the preheated oven and cook until the liquid mixture reduces by half and the cabbage is fork tender, about 10 to 15 minutes.
6. Place the cabbage halves, cut-side up, on a serving platter or big plate with a rim. Pour the pan sauce slowly over the cabbage so that it fills in between the leaves. Top with the pickled shallots, breadcrumbs, capers and dill.
Recipe by Chance Spivey of Reunion
Juniper and Coffee-Roasted Chicken with Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve Jus
At his restaurant in Viroqua, Luke Zahm has always let the flavors of local ingredients, his mood and the weather guide his cooking. These elements inform the artistry of the dishes on its ever-changing seasonal menu. To Zahm, there is nothing more beautiful or enticing in winter than a whole roasted chicken—a meal that deepens our understanding of simple, rustic yet beautiful food. While best results are achieved by seasoning this bird ahead of time, doing so just before cooking will also be delicious.
2 ounces Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve (or Gruyère)
DIRECTIONS
1. Grind coffee and juniper berries until they are relatively fine.
2. Two to three days before serving, pat the chicken very dry. Loosen the skin on each of the breasts and the thickest sections of the thighs, making little pockets. Push a thyme and rosemary sprig into each of the four pockets.
3. Season the chicken liberally with salt, pepper, and ground juniper and coffee. Sprinkle a little salt just inside the cavity. Twist and tuck the wing tips behind the shoulders. Cover loosely and refrigerate for two to three days.
4. When you’re ready to cook the chicken, bring the chicken out of the refrigerator and allow to temper for 30 minutes to 1 hour at room temperature.
5. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees F.
6. Heat a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet or shallow flameproof roasting pan over medium heat. Set the chicken breast-side up in the pan and place the pan in the center of the oven. Roast for 20 minutes. At this time it should start sizzling and browning; if it doesn’t, raise the temperature by 25 degrees. The skin should blister, but if the chicken begins to char, or the fat is smoking, reduce the temperature by 25 degrees.
7. Roast 10 more minutes, then turn the bird over. Place the lemons cut-side down in the pan to caramelize the citrus and then add butter evenly around the chicken. Roast until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees, 10 to 20 minutes depending on the size of the bird. Then flip back over to re-crisp the breast skin, about 5 minutes.
8. Remove the chicken from the roasting pan and set it on a plate. Remove the lemons from the pan and reserve. Pour the clear fat from the pan and discard, leaving the drippings. Add about a tablespoon of water to the hot pan and swirl.
9. Slash the stretched skin between the thighs and breasts of the chicken, then tilt the bird and plate over the roasting pan to drain the juice into the drippings. As the chicken rests, tilt the roasting pan and skim the last of the fat.
10. Place the roasting pan over medium-low heat, add any juice that has collected under the chicken, and bring to a simmer. Grate the Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese into the jus. Stir and scrape.
11. Cut the chicken into pieces and pour the pan drippings over the chicken. Add a sprinkle of sea salt to the cut bird and squeeze the roasted lemon over the top.
Luke Zahm of Driftless Cafe and Wisconsin Foodie
Berry Almond Cake
A descendant of Martha Stewart’s fresh strawberry cake, Rachel Robey’s cake adapts those peak summer flavors into a recipe that delights even in the depths of a zone five Wisconsin winter. Under a thin crackling coat of sugar, thawed frozen raspberries melt into the batter for a bright, jammy center. Almond flour, Meyer lemon zest, and buttermilk yield a perfectly tender and tangy crumb that keeps well for a few days, making this an ideal recipe for both special occasions and casual snacking. Serve the cake simply with a dollop of whipped cream or dress it up with candied herbs and flowers—either way, it’s a welcome reminder that summer warmth isn’t so far away.
Serves 8
Prep time: 15 hours
Cook time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS
For Cake:
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, separated
Zest of 1 Meyer lemon
8 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon almond flour
¾ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup buttermilk, at room temperature
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
12 ounces frozen raspberries, thawed in a colander or mesh sieve
For Whipped Cream Topping:
¾ cup heavy whipping cream, cold
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
Herbs, candied or dried fruit, and/or flowers for garnish
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter and line the bottom and sides of a 9-inch round springform pan.
2. Combine 1 cup of granulated sugar and the lemon zest in a large mixing bowl. Using your fingers, rub the zest into the sugar until it becomes fragrant and feels like damp sand. Add the butter and, using a hand or stand mixer, cream together with the sugar on medium-high speed for three minutes until light and fluffy.
3. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.
4. In a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the buttermilk, eggs and vanilla. Turn the mixer to low and slowly stream in buttermilk mixture, combining thoroughly to encourage it to emulsify. This should take a minute or two. Don’t worry if it looks curdled or split. Add the flour mixture in two additions, incorporating each addition on low speed before proceeding. Once the flour is mostly incorporated, switch to a rubber spatula and fold along the edges and bottom to ensure all ingredients are well-mixed.
5. Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan. Pat the raspberries dry and dot the surface of the batter with them. Sprinkle the remaining two tablespoons of sugar evenly across the top.
6. Set the cake pan on the center rack in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Lower the heat to 325 degrees F and bake until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool for 30 minutes, then remove the cake from the pan and transfer it to a cake plate.
7. In a chilled bowl, whip the cream with powdered sugar until soft peaks form.
8. Once the cake is cooled to room temperature, spread whipped cream on top and adorn it with herbs, fruit, berries and/or flowers. (In the photo below, we grated freeze-dried raspberries through a sieve over the whipped cream and garnished the cake with sage.)
Recipe by Rachel Robey
Photo by Sunny Frantz
FE S TIVE P LATE
Brighten your holiday table with this vibrant winter salad that combines seasonal greens with pops of Roth Buttermilk Blue®.
WINTER GREEN S ALAD WITH ROTH B UTTERMILK BLUE®
Recipe by Jack Huibregtse of Pasture and Plenty
Serves: 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
INGREDIENTS
For Dressing:
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1½ tablespoons finely diced shallot
6 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For Salad:
½ cup dried cherries
¼ cup orange juice
1 Belgian endive, root end trimmed and leaves separated
1 small head radicchio, root end trimmed and leaves sliced into thin ribbons
1 head frisée, root end trimmed, leaves separated and bitter dark green leaf ends trimmed
1 watermelon radish, ends trimmed, peeled and thinly sliced
2 small multicolored carrots, thinly sliced on a bias
4 ounces Roth Buttermilk Blue®, crumbled
DIRECTIONS
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the Champagne vinegar, Dijon mustard and shallots. Slowly add the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
2. In a saucepan, bring the cherries and orange juice to a simmer. Cook until the cherries are plump, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat.
3. In a large bowl, gently toss all the greens and sliced vegetables with the dressing. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Top salad with Roth Buttermilk Blue® crumbles and cherries.
By Erica Krug
W O RMFARM INSTITUTE: F O STERING ART AND AGRICULTURE
Wormfarm Institute co-founder and Chicago transplant Jay Salinas doesn’t hesitate when asked how he landed on a 40-acre farm near Reedsburg, a rural farming community with a population hovering around 10,000. “Serendipity,” Salinas says. “Becoming smitten, becoming passionate, then falling in love with the Driftless region, and now we are cheeseheads.” It was the mid1990s when Salinas and his wife, Donna Neuwirth, first left the city to relocate to Reedsburg, located about an hour northwest of Madison. Both artists, they had no previous farming experience. “We were completely ignorant of how to do that sort of thing,” Salinas says. Within a couple of years Neuwirth and Salinas had taught themselves how to grow vegetables and even started a farm CSA, which stands for community supported agriculture,
a model where people buy shares of a farm's harvest in advance to receive regular deliveries of produce throughout the season. With their customers consisting mostly of family and friends back in Chicago, Neuwirth and Salinas had to come up with a creative solution to transport their vegetables the more than three-hour drive back to Illinois. “The only efficient way to get the vegetables back to Chicago was to have the shareholders themselves get them,” Salinas says. Conveniently their new digs, a large farmhouse, had a separate three-bedroom apartment upstairs. “Our CSA came with a stipulation that you had to visit the farm at one point during the 20-week season and load your minivan up with vegetables and take them back to Chicago to two or three drop-off sites,” Salinas says.
Photos by Katrin Talbot
Cloud by Charlie Brouwer, 2020 Farm/Art DTour.
What they initially lacked in farming experience Neuwirth and Salinas made up for with their resourcefulness. “Owning 40 acres is constant work if you are doing it right,” Salinas says. “People are welcome to visit but if you hang out more than 24 hours, you are put to work.” It wasn’t long before they also leaned into their background as artists—Neuwirth trained in theater and Salinas in sculpture—to begin to intertwine their love of art with their newfound love of agriculture and their need for farm labor.
In 2000, Wormfarm Institute became a nonprofit organization with the mission of integrating culture and agriculture. Wormfarm’s farm-based artist residency program, which continues today, became the organization’s foundational program. Throughout the growing season, the program invites three artists and writers to engage in life on a working CSA farm, contributing 15 hours a week of labor in exchange for “time and space and facilities to create their own work,” Salinas says. Since 2000 the program has supported over 200 artists from around the world. In addition to the residency program, when Wormfarm became a nonprofit organization they also bought and restored a historic building in downtown Reedsburg. “So instead of being ‘these weirdos from Chicago living five miles outside of town—who knows what they were doing’—now we were literally invested in Main Street in Reedsburg,” Salinas says. The building became the homebase for arts-based programs within Reedsburg that included gallery shows, mural creations and maybe most popular, puppet festivals. “People loved them,” Salinas says.
“Our mission is to draw people closer, not only to the land, but also to each other. To use arts and culture to pique their curiosity and get them to have conversations with one another.”
— PHILIP MATTHEWS
A pivotal moment in the organization’s history came in 2010 when Wormfarm hosted a traveling Smithsonian exhibit entitled “Key Ingredients: America by Food.” As Salinas and the other event planners thought about the region's eating habits and culinary practices, they decided to propose a celebration of fermented foods, including sauerkraut. Hitting the timing right as “the fermentation boon was beginning to crest,” the event was very successful, Salinas says. Although the traveling exhibit moved on, Wormfarm wanted to keep the momentum going in 2011 and Fermentation Fest, a multi-day celebration of all-things fermented, featuring classes and demonstrations, was born. In order to give the event more “heft,” Neuwirth and
Top: Step Right Up by Erika Nelson, 2020 Farm/Art DTour.
Bottom: Garden of Water & Wind by Sarah Kavage, 2022 Farm/Art DTour.
Salinas decided to add a farm-based fall art tour. “The idea of installing temporary artwork in fields is not a new idea but to create a tour around it is what we decided to do,” Salinas says. “We handpicked some artists we thought would understand the challenge and then we started talking to farmers who said, ‘Sure, you can put something in my hayfield in October; I’m done with it.’” Calling it the Farm/Art DTour, the event drew 4000 people in its first year. “First stop, first day, there were 20 cars parked along the side of the road and people were out in the farmer’s field engaging with this work,” Salinas says. “It’s grown from there. We have cultivated a lot of collaborations, both within and outside of our community.”
Now a biennial event (occurring every other year), the self-guided DTour takes place over ten days in October and covers a 50-mile route through Sauk County. This year 156 artists from around the world applied to participate—the most to date—and the event draws over 20,000 visitors from both rural and urban areas, says
“We really think of our work as not only bridging culture and agriculture and reintegrating those two fields, but also bridging rural places and urban places… discovering what [people] have in common and the ways in which they are interconnected.”
Philip Matthews, Wormfarm’s director of programs. Matthews, who first came to Reedsburg to participate in the artist residency program, says the DTour reflects the idea of rural urban connectivity, which is rooted in the organization’s founders' story of Neuwirth and Salinas encouraging their Chicago friends to spend time with them in rural Wisconsin. “We really think of our work as not only bridging culture and agriculture and reintegrating those two fields, but also bridging rural places and urban places… discovering what [people] have in common and the ways in which they are interconnected.” During increasingly volatile election seasons, there has been a lot of national attention on Wisconsin and Sauk County—a county reflective of the divisions between Democrats and Republicans and national voting patterns—in particular. While Wormfarm is not a political organization, “we know that our work to bridge culture and agriculture is happening in a politically charged environment,” Matthews says. “Our mission is to draw people closer, not only to the land, but also to
Photos by Katrin Talbot
Left: Sarah Butler dances at Catherine Schwalbe’s artwork, 2022 Pasture Performance
Middle: Field Sketch by Sarah FitzSimons, 2018 Farm/Art DTour
Above: Curious Erratic of the Driftless by W. Scott Trimble, 2022 Farm/Art DTour
each other. To use arts and culture to pique their curiosity and get them to have conversations with one another.”
Salinas is proud of the work that Wormfarm has been able to do to bring artists from around the world to rural Wisconsin to “do things that are outside of their wheelhouse” and the opportunity to highlight the work of local farmers. The event is also “a huge economic engine,” bringing awareness to local businesses. While misconceptions can remain between people from rural and urban areas, Salinas says that the event has real benefits for the people who live year-round in Sauk County who understand the DTour’s impact on their community. “If people are spending money at the Schellter Bar in Leland, then they are going to stay open. If [local people] want to go there in February, they will probably be open because Connie and LeRoy had an awesome October when all those folks in the Subarus and Priuses came by and had a fish fry.”
Matthews notes that in 2020, during the Covid pandemic, the event helped both artists and entrepreneurs make ends meet. “A new farm stand said [the DTour] was the best marketing they could have done that year and a tea shop along the route reported that they did 10 times the number of sales that they normally would have done in that 10-day period.” Matthews is proud of this powerful economic story and Wormfarm’s work to bring more attention to rural areas. “I feel like the predominant narrative is often one of ‘brain drain,’ of resources being pulled out of rural downtowns,” Matthews says. “Of course, those stories are based in some reality, but I also think there is this other emerging narrative that is equally and maybe more based in reality, of very intelligent, community-minded, passionate, creative people, deciding to stay or move to rural places and reinvest in them and help transform them and evolve them into 21st century prosperous communities.”
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Miller High Life may be known as the “champagne of beers,” but Wisconsin’s true sparkling gems are found in its local wineries. Wisconsin grapes naturally create wines that are high in acidity and low in tannins—perfect for sparkling wines that resemble the best the Champagne region has to offer. Nick Smith of NSmith Wines was inspired to make his Mad Rebel sparkling white wine while on a trip to France.
Sparkling wine has long been reserved for celebration—the anniversary, holiday, graduation—but Smith thinks people need to celebrate more. “It’s a very hands-on product to make. Every bottle in itself should be a celebration.”
