What’s in Season

LOCAL FOOD IN SEASON

December, January and February

Fruits: Apples • Asian Pears • Avocados Grapefruit • Grapes • Guavas • Kiwis • Kumquats Lemons • Limes • Mandarins • Oranges • Pears Persimmons • Pomegranates * • Pomelos

Vegetables: Artichokes * • Arugula • Asparagus ** Beets • Bok Choy • Broccoli • Broccoli Raab Brussels Sprouts • Burdock • Cabbage • Cardoons Carrots • Cauliflower • Celeriac • Celery • Chard Chicory • Collards • Cress • Dandelion • Endive Fava Greens • Fennel • Garlic • Horseradish • Kale Kohlrabi • Leeks • Mushrooms • Mustard Greens Nettles • Onions • Orach • Oranges • Parsnips Potatoes • Radishes • Rutabagas • Salsify * Shallots • Spinach • Sprouts • Winter Squash Sunchokes • Sweet Potatoes • Turnips

Fish: Abalone (farmed) • Dungeness Crab, Lingcod (Rod and Reel)# • Rock Cod (Rockfish, Rod and Reel, Purse Seine, Trap)# • Sablefish (Black Cod, Longline, Pots)# • Sanddabs (Pacific)# Sardines (Pacific) • Sole (Dover and Petrale, Longline, Rod and Reel)# • Spot Prawns# Squid (Market, Purse Seine)#

* December only ** February only # Rated “Good Alternative” by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch. All other seafood listed is rated “Best Choice.” See www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx for more information.

What’s in Season Persimmons

Demystifying a winter culinary jewel

By Jamie Collins Photography by Geneva Liimatta

It is very appropriate that I bite into my first Fuyu persimmon of the season as I sit down to write about them. I add some dry, aged goat cheese and oil-cured olives to the mix, and persimmon inspiration begins to bubble to the surface. What’s not to love about these versatile and tasty fruits that are available throughout the winter months?

History and Varieties

Persimmon trees like both mild summer months and mild winters, so our region is a perfect place for growing them. On Monterey Bay, many country properties with a little extra land are home to persimmon trees. Take Carmel Valley for instance; in the winter, you can drive through and see the unpicked, bright orange, acorn-shaped fruit hanging in an amazing display of color long after the leaves have fallen off. I like to fantasize that Carmel Valley cowboys made brandy out of them in the old days, to keep them warm on horseback during cold winter days.

Whether to pick the fruit or keep them on the tree can be a hard decision. I’m guilty of letting the fruit hang on the trees so that I can gaze through my bedroom window at the sight of them brightening a dark winter morning with their orange glow.

The botanical genus of an edible persimmon tree is Diospyros, meaning “divine fruit,” and botanically speaking, persimmon fruits are actually berries. The word persimmon comes from the American Indian word putchamin, which means “dried fruit,” probably due to the Algonquin tribe’s practice of drying them for sustenance in the winter.

The first European to mention trying the fruit was explorer Don Fernando de Soto in 1539 when he learned about it from Indians in Florida. However, the first descriptive diary entry came from Captain John Smith during the 17th century, and noted “if it not be ripe it will draw a man’s mouth awry with much torment, but when it is ripe, it is as delicious as an apricock.” (Apricock was the old name for apricot.)

Capt. Smith must have been talking about an astringent variety, such as the Japanese cultivar Hachiya, which is commonly available in our local markets.

Hachiya fruit ranges in size from six ounces to one pound and boasts a robust shape encased in a bright, pumpkin-orange skin. To avoid the astringency of unripe Hachiya, the variety needs to be in a pre-exploding state of ripeness—look for a very thin skin and insides that resemble thick jelly, sweet and slightly spicy with a substantial pulp. And by the time they are ripe, they need to be worked with quickly, as it is a fine line between perfectly edible and rotting persimmon fruit.

But the rewards are worth paying attention. Ripe Hachiya varieties can be eaten right out of the skins with a spoon, or by removing the calyx (the dry leaf-like part on the top of the fruit) and eating from the inside out. They are often baked into breads and cookies or cooked into seasonal puddings. Most common is a steamed pudding originating in the Midwest, which is topped with brandy butter and crème Anglaise—a sugar, egg yolk, cream and vanilla mixture. The consistency of this pudding is like pumpkin pie, but looks like a brownie and tastes like something in between the two. (More on cooking with persimmons later.)

The other variety grown locally is the Fuyu persimmon, which is not astringent and is different from the Hachiya in other ways. Smaller in size, squat like a little pumpkin and resembling an orange heirloom tomato, Fuyu persimmons can be eaten right off the tree in a crunchy state once the fruit is completely orange. They are sweet and mild, and eaten as you would an apple. Other crisp varieties similar to Fuyu are Gosho, Imoto, Izu, Jiro, Maekawa Jiro and Suruga. (The prevalence of Japanese names reflects that Japan—along with China and Korea—are the world’s largest producers of persimmons.)

There is also a black variety of persimmons, native to Mexico, making a rare appearance at farmers’ markets. It is known as chocolate or coffee cake persimmon in the States and is sometimes called black sapote (although there is no relation to the true tropical sapote fruit). The black persimmon looks like a cross between the Hachiya and the Fuyu in shape, but needs to be fully ripe like the Hachiya to be edible.

Not all persimmon trees bear fruit. A member of the same botanic family, Ebenaceae, as ebony, they are sometimes used for their wood, most often in making percussion instruments like drumsticks and wooden flutes, or, more recently, long bows for archery.

Ways to Prepare Persimmon Fruit

Not only are persimmons beautiful, they are also delicious, and there are many different ways to prepare them. The Hachiya and the Fuyu lend themselves best to very different culinary adventures, however.

Fuyus add color to your holiday spread, and are great accompaniments to cheese platters, complementing the strong flavors with their slightly sweet and crisp flesh. They are a tasty and crunchy accent to sandwiches of all kinds, my favorite being an addition to a

soft herbed goat cheese and roasted pork loin panini. Fuyus are also the persimmons that are sliced to go into salads and garnish desserts. Persimmon, fennel, kale and quinoa salad never disappoints.

Hachiyas are good for anything dessert-oriented. Start by preparing a naturally gelatinous, sweet base from the Hachiyas by cooking down the pulp of eight Hachiyas for 12 hours in a crock pot, stirring occasionally and then adding some vanilla, agave syrup or honey, cinnamon, and the juice and zest of two lemons. This base, or persimmon “cook-down,” can be baked into breads and puddings, used to cook meats such as pork roasts and goat, or simply spread on toast as persimmon butter. The pulp can also be a base for seasonal beer making or left to ferment into probiotic fruit vinegar.

Last season I was turned on to traditionally dried Hachiya persimmons, a labor-intensive technique practiced by Japanese farmers and offered by Hamada Farms, a family farm that sells at the Old Monterey Market Place on Alvarado Street Tuesday afternoons. Cliff Hamada was kind enough to explain the process of drying whole persimmons in the old-world Japanese style that the Hamadas have been practicing for more than 100 years and three generations.

“First you start with Hachiya persimmons that are just breaking color and are rock-hard,” he explained. “When you harvest from the tree, be sure to cut the stem in a ‘T’—this is how the fruit will hang on the string to dry. Take a potato peeler, peel off the first layer of skin. Hang the persimmons on a string, in the sun or in a warm kitchen, ensuring that they don’t touch and air can circulate. Massage each persimmon to break up the fibers at least twice a week for 2–3 weeks until they are dry. Store in a cool place once they are dried.”

I soon found myself getting addicted to the massaged, dried Hachiya, which I dipped whole in some quality black coffee for a sweet breakfast treat.

Chef Cal Stamenov, executive chef at Marinus and Wickets at Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley, shared with me his favorite way to eat a Hachiya persimmon—and it is also one of the easiest preparations you’ll find.

“Harvest them with the stem attached after they are fully ripe and are like a water balloon, and put them in the freezer overnight,”

Health Benefits

Persimmons contain high levels of fiber, and significant amounts of essential minerals and antioxidants. They are also rich in vitamin C, potassium and beta-carotene. Research shows that eating persimmons regulates how the body deals with fat, and may help prevent heart disease. In Chinese medicine, they are known to regulate chi, or energy.

Growing Persimmons

Persimmon trees are planted 15 to 20 feet apart and prefer to be protected from wind and extreme temperatures. Wonderfully drought tolerant once established, persimmons are not susceptible to disease or pests unless the tree becomes weak from poor care. Persimmon trees start to produce fruit well after they are established—around their sixth year. Trees can grow to 25 feet, and pruning can keep the tree a manageable size and the yield consistent year to year.

This year, I’m contemplating not leaving the persimmons on the tree all winter for visual candy to be enjoyed out my bedroom window. Instead, I think I will harvest them early, bring them in from the cold and show them a little love—maybe even a few weekly massages.

RECIPES: See recipe for Persimmon Pudding Cake, opposite, and Dungeness Crab Salad with Persimmon Carpaccio and Yuzu Vinaigrette on p. 22. A recipe for Hachiya Persimmon Vinaigrette may be found under the “Recipes” tab on our website, www.ediblemontereybay.com.

Jamie Collins of Serendipity Farms has been growing organic row crops at the mouth of Carmel Valley for more than 10 years. She distributes her produce through a CSA, u-picks and farmers’ markets.

Courtesy Ben Spungin, pastry chef, Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley

Makes 1 cake

1½ cups raisins 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons brandy 2 cups persimmon pulp (from Hachiya persimmons) ½ cup sugar ¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons walnuts, chopped 1 pinch cloves 1 pinch nutmeg 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 cup milk 4 tablespoons egg whites 1 handful sugar

Brandy Sauce

1cup butter, melted 1 ½ cup brown sugar 1cup cream ½ cup brandy Pinch of salt In a small glass or ceramic bowl, combine the raisins with the brandy, making sure all raisins are submerged. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 3 hours or preferably overnight.

Heat oven to 325° F. Butter and lightly flour a bundt pan; set aside.

Purée the persimmon pulp in a blender, then strain into a large bowl, using the bottom of a sturdy ladle to force as much through a strainer as possible. Add the sugar, vanilla, cloves and nutmeg, stirring well until blended. Stir in the walnuts and the raisin-brandy mixture. Combine the baking soda and salt and gradually add the persimmon mixture, stirring until well mixed. Gradually add the milk, blending well, then set aside.

Pour the egg whites into a small mixing bowl. Place an electric mixer onto them and set the speed at low. Beat the eggs for about 30 seconds, increasing speed and adding sugar every 30 seconds until stiff peaks begin to form.

Lightly fold the egg white mixture into the persimmon mixture just until barely blended. Gently spoon the batter into the bundt pan. Leave in the oven for 1 hour to 1½ hours. Remove from oven and let cool to room temperature, for about an hour. While cake is cooling, make Brandy Sauce: Whisk brown sugar into butter, boil for 1 minute and turn off heat. Add brandy, salt and cream, whisking until smooth. Slice cake at 90 degrees, spoon brandy sauce onto the slice and then sprinkle nutmeg over the sauce. Serve immediately.

In this photograph, the Persimmon Pudding Cake is served with golden raisins, almond streusel, whipped crème fraîche, yogurt-huckleberry sorbet, red wood sorrel and sliced and puréed Fuyu persimmons.

Courtesy Cal Stamenov, chef and culinary director, Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley

Serves 6

Yuzu Vinaigrette Finely grated zest of 2 yuzu or limes 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, preferably Meyer 1 tablespoon yuzu or lime juice 3 tablespoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Make the vinaigrette first, so the acidity and flavors have time to mellow while you prepare the other components of the salad. Combine the zest, juices and a pinch of salt and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning. If you’re not using yuzu juice, increase the amount of lemon juice by 1 teaspoon to approximate the same acidity level, or add a teaspoon of tangerine juice. Set aside at room temperature.

Ginger Aioli 2 teaspoons fresh ginger, finely minced 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 large egg yolk ¾ cup canola oil Kosher salt and ground white pepper to taste

Combine the ginger, lime juice, soy and egg yolk in a blender or small food processor. With the machine running, slowly add the oil in a thin, steady stream until the sauce thickens. The aioli should be the consistency of a creamy salad dressing such as ranch or Caesar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The aioli is meant to have high acidity to balance the sweetness of the crab and persimmon. Keep refrigerated while you proceed with the recipe; the aioli can be made 1 day in advance.

Dungeness Crab Salad with Persimmon Carpaccio 4 cooked Dungeness crabs, about 1½ pounds each 4 Kaffir lime leaves 4 strips candied yuzu, optional 3 ripe Hachiya persimmons ¼ cup microgreens or radish sprouts (garnish) 4 fresh chives (garnish)

Remove the 2 claws and the 4 largest (front) legs from each crab. For an artful presentation, the crabmeat should be in large pieces, so save the remaining, smaller crab legs and the meat from the bodies for another use (combine with unused Ginger Aioli, for instance). Cut off the small knuckles at the joint where they attach to the main claw; save these small pieces for another use. Using a wooden mallet or small hammer, very lightly tap the shells of the crab claws until they crack in several places, taking care not to smash the meat in the process. Bend each small pincer claw away from its larger counterpart until it snaps. Then, very gently twist it in order to release the tiny piece of crab inside the shell. Carefully extract the claw meat from the broken shells, hopefully with the pincer claws still attached. This can be tricky, so don’t worry if the tiny pincer meat does not release from the shell or breaks in the process.

Crab legs have many small sections and removing the meat in neat pieces can be difficult. Use only the largest segments, those closest to the body. Cut off the lower, smaller pieces at the first joint and save for another use. Tap the shells in the same manner as for the claws and carefully extract the fingers of meat. Each salad should have 6 whole pieces of crab.

Slice the Kaffir leaves into a very thin chiffonade, then cut the strips crosswise into a dice so finely that it resembles particles of salt (this step can’t be accomplished successfully in a food processor). Set aside.

If using the candied yuzu, cut each strip into a very tiny dice; set aside.

Place the crab in a medium bowl and sprinkle with a pinch of salt and pepper. Whisk the vinaigrette to re-emulsify it, then pour it over the crab. Add half of the Kaffir leaves and all of the candied yuzu to the bowl. Very gently blend the ingredients with a rubber spatula, taking care not to break the crab pieces.

Cut off and discard the top, stem end of the persimmons. Remove the skin from the fruit with a small, sharp knife or a vegetable peeler. Cut the persimmons crosswise into thin slices, 1⁄8- to ¼-inch thick. With Hachiya persimmons, the variety I recommend for this salad, it is best to slice them by hand as they are extremely soft when ripe. If you use Fuyu persimmons, you can slice them on a mandoline, if you wish, because this variety is firm when ripe. In any case, the slices should be no thinner than 1⁄8 inch or they will stick to the plate.

Use large, flat white or black dinner plates for the presentation to highlight the dramatic color of the persimmons. Place a dollop of Ginger Aioli in the center of each plate. Using the back of a spoon, spread the sauce into a 3-inch circle. Arrange 5 slices of persimmon on top of the sauce, overlapping each piece slightly to create a circle of fruit. The aioli will be covered, except for a small circle in the center. Keep the circle of fruit at least an inch away from the edge of the plate for the best effect. A band of empty plate centers and showcases your presentation.

Place 3 pieces of crab on top of the Persimmon Carpaccio in the center of the circle. Use any less than perfect pieces on the bottom. Top with 3 more fingers of crab, setting these at a 90-degree angle to the pieces on the bottom. Sprinkle just the crab meat with the remaining Kaffir leaves (you don’t want to spoil the pristine perfection of the persimmon slices). Top with a sprinkling of microgreens.

If you wish to further garnish the dish, cut a 3-inch length from the center section of a firm, medium-size chive. Hold the chive in the air, grasping the bottom half-inch of the stem. With a small, very sharp knife, cut the chive in half lengthwise, starting from the point above your fingers and moving up the stem. Turn the chive 90-degrees and slit again, so that chive falls into 4 thin ribbons, still attached at the bottom. Alternately, place the chive on a cutting board and carefully slit the stem in half lengthwise, leaving the bottom half-inch intact. Rotate the chive 90 degrees, and make a second lengthwise cut, so the stem is now slit into 4 thin lengths. Drape the chive over the top of the salad.

Know your persimmons: Fuyu is at left and Hachiya at right.