GRIST FOR THE MILL

“It seems to me that our three basic needs, for food and security and love, are so mixed and mingled and entwined that we cannot straightly think of one without the others. So it happens that when I write of hunger, I am really writing about love and the hunger for it, and warmth and the love of it and the hunger for it. And then the warmth and richness and fine reality of hunger satisfied…and it is all one.”

—M.F.K. Fisher, from e Gastronomical Me

As we write this note, the United States is reeling from its latest school shooting, which, at the time of this writing, was in Parkland, Fla. You may wonder, “But what does that have to do with food? Edible Monterey Bay is a food magazine!” is is indeed a food magazine. But as M.F.K. Fisher so artfully expresses in the above passage, food, security and love are all connected. And knowing this, it’s our profound hope that in the near future we all can come together to demand badly needed, common-sense gun regulation, just as we have rallied around safe and healthy food. Our children depend upon both.

But back to this issue, Fisher’s comment comes from a beautiful story by our writer, Anina Marcus, about her long correspondence with the legendary author and what she learned from it. Indeed, you’ll find much throughout the magazine to help you celebrate and provide the food, love—and even the security—of which Fisher writes.

John Cox’s piece tells the fascinating story of so-called trash fish—the undervalued, less familiar and yet abundant and delicious species that are so important to the livelihood of our local fishermen and the revival of our local fisheries. We also include an illustrated guide to local “trash fish” and Cox’s professional tips for preparing them.

Kathryn McKenzie writes about the struggles our region’s vibrant CSAs are having as they face increasing competition from big box stores, conventional grocers and prepared meal companies, and her story may make you decide to provide a little more security to a farmer—and a little more super-fresh food for you table—with a CSA membership. Our CSA guide will help you choose the right one for your household.

Rosie Parker takes you foraging with the founder of Big Sur Salts, who has been bringing a lot of love to the kitchens of local chefs and home cooks alike with sea salts and sea salt blends like the one on our cover.

Other stories that you’ll not want to miss include Jordan Champagne’s instruction in making your own chèvre and Jamie Collins’ piece (with recipes from Tim Wood) on that quintessential harbinger of spring, asparagus. In something of a sequel to our story last year about how marijuana legalization was affecting the region’s agricultural community, Wallace Baine checks in on local pioneers of the cannabis edibles business. And finally, Lily Stoicheff explores the latest collaborations of our refreshingly collegial brewery community.

But whatever you do, be sure to read Marcus’ story about Fisher. It will stay with you for a long time to come, like the memory of a delicious meal shared with someone you love.

Cheers to a happy and healthy spring,

Sarah Wood and Rob Fisher

Publishers

edible

MONTEREY BAY

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR Sarah Wood Sarah@ediblemontereybay.com 831.298.7117 or 831.238.1217

CO–PUBLISHER AND

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Rob Fisher

DEPUTY AND

DIGITAL EDITOR Deborah Luhrman COPY EDITOR Doresa Banning LAYOUT DESIGN Melissa Petersen

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT AND EVENTS

MANAGER Rosie Parker

AD DESIGN Dina Clark Bigfish Smallpond Design • Jane Bolling Design Zephyr Pfotenhauer • Marilet Pretorius Melissa oeny Designs

CONTRIBUTORS Wallace Baine • Brock Bill Crystal Birns • Julie Cahill • Jordan Champagne Jamie Collins • John Cox • Bambi Edlund Paul Fusco • Larry Gerbrandt Margaux Gibbons • Rebecca Gourevitch Ted Holladay • Michelle Magdalena Anina Marcus • Kathryn McKenzie Rosie Parker • Zephyr Pfotenhauer Lily Stoicheff • Jake omas • Carole Topalian Patrick Tregenza • Amber Turpin • Patrice Ward

ADVERTISING SALES

ads@ediblemontereybay.com • 831.238.1217 Shelby Lambert shelby@ediblemontereybay.com Kate Robbins kate@ediblemontereybay.com Sarah Wood sarah@ediblemontereybay.com

DISTRIBUTION

Mick Freeman • 831.419.2875

CONTACT US: Edible Monterey Bay P.O. Box 228 Carmel Valley, CA 93924 www.ediblemontereybay.com 831.298.7117 or 831.238.1217 info@ediblemontereybay.com

Edible Monterey Bay is published quarterly. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. Subscriptions are $28 per year at www.ediblemontereybay.com. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and notify us. We also welcome letters to the above address. ank you.