White Wine and Garlic Sauce for Mussels

Recipe courtesy Jessica Tunis

2 cups dry white wine 3 large shallots, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped ½ teaspoon sea salt ¼ teaspoon fresh ground pepper, plus more to taste 3 tablespoons fresh thyme, stems removed and minced ¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1/3 cup butter, cut into pieces

In a heavy bottomed pan over medium heat, combine the wine, shallots, garlic, salt and pepper, and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the herbs and butter. To enjoy on the beach, immediately pour into a thermos to keep the sauce warm. Pour over mussels or use as a dipping sauce. Serves 4–6.

SAFE FORAGING TIPS In our area, mussels should generally be harvested only from November–April; the rest of the season is off limits. That’s because of the seasonal nature of red tides that sometimes beset our coastal waters. Red tides get their name from a natural, cyclical overgrowth of a category of phytoplankton known as dinofl agellates, the microscopic masses of which, when in full bloom, can stain the seawater with a reddish hue that is not always visible to the naked eye.

Red tides can be caused by several diff erent species, and some (but not all) of these phytoplankton produce toxins that can be absorbed by fi lter feeders like shellfi sh. These toxins, if ingested, can cause serious illness, amnesia, paralysis and even death. The conditions that cause these blooms are carefully monitored and it is always a good idea, before harvesting mussels or any other seafood, to check the latest information regarding current seafood health advisories and quarantines.

The California Department of Public Health maintains a toll-free number that makes it easy to keep tabs on any current outbreaks of shellfi sh poisoning. As the climate warms, we may see more red tides in our future, so don’t assume that because of the calendar date, everything is good to go. Call 1-800-553-4133 to confi rm your safety before doing any coastal foraging.

Foraging at low tide near Pigeon Point.

CHARITIES ARE HURTING — THIS MAY BE THE YEAR TO HELP

In these challenging economic times, many worthwhile charitable organizations find themselves in a precarious financial position. Meanwhile, they are experiencing unprecedented demand, especially those charities that provide basic needs like food and shelter.

Thankfully, new, unique provisions in the tax code have been implemented in response to the COVID-19 crisis, creating more incentives for giving. You may be able to better leverage your donations with tax-smart strategies. So, if you’re able to extend your generosity during this time of increased need, it may be an opportune year to make contributions to charity.

Everyone can claim a deduction

In 2020, the standard deduction is $12,400 for a single tax filer or $24,800 for a married couple filing a joint return (even more for those age 65 or over). Your itemized deductions would need to exceed those levels to benefit from itemizing. Those who don’t typically itemize are not able to deduct charitable contributions from their taxes. However, on your 2020 tax return, you will be allowed to deduct up to $300 in cash contributions to qualified charities even if you choose the standard deduction.

A higher ceiling on tax-advantaged giving

If you do itemize deductions and plan on giving large gifts, you can now claim a deduction valued at up to 100 percent of your adjusted gross income (AGI) for charitable contributions, due to a unique provision for 2020. Previously, the tax rules prevented you from claiming a deduction that exceeded 60 percent of your AGI in a single year. If your financial circumstances put you in a position to make substantial gifts, this is the most favorable year, from a tax perspective, to do so.

A tax-efficient distribution strategy from your IRA

Another special provision for 2020 allows individuals subject to Required Minimum Distributions from IRAs and workplace retirement plans to forego those distributions. If you don’t need to draw from your IRA to meet your income needs for this year, you still have an opportunity to put the funds that would have been RMD dollars to use as a charitable contribution. The most tax-efficient way to do so is with a Qualified Charitable Distribution (QCD). In this way, you may contribute to charitable organizations up to $100,000 per year. With a QCD, if you are 70.5 years or older, funds are distributed directly to the charity from your IRA so you don’t have to claim the income before making the contribution. That is a tax-saving strategy you can use whether you itemize deductions or claim the standard deduction.

Put a giving strategy in place

Given the current economic challenges, your circumstances today and your financial future may require careful re-assessment. Your charitable giving strategy should be incorporated into a review of your comprehensive financial plan. Check with your financial advisor and tax professional as you consider your options for giving in 2020 and beyond.

Erik Cormier is a Financial Advisor with Cormier Financial Partners, a private wealth advisory practice with Ameriprise Financial Services, Inc. He specializes in feebased financial planning and asset management strategies and has 13 years of experience in the financial services industry. To contact him, email Erik.Cormier@ampf.com or call 408-472-0757. Registered office address is 522 Ramona St, Palo Alto, CA 94301.

Ameriprise Financial Services, Inc. and its affiliates do not offer tax or legal advice. Consumers should consult with their tax advisor or attorney regarding their specific situation.

Investment advisory products and services are made available through Ameriprise Financial Services, Inc., a registered investment adviser.

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© 2020 Ameriprise Financial, Inc. All rights reserved.

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BEHIND THE BOTTLE AMARO AMBASSADOR

Bartender Francis Verrall showcases the bittersweet Italian digestivo at Pacific Grove’s Mezzaluna

BY RAÚL NAVA PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARGAUX GIBBONS

Watching the regulars at Pacific Grove’s Mezzaluna Pasteria & Mozzarella Bar reveals a ritual.

After enjoying chef-owner Soerke Peters’ menu of Italian-inspired charcuterie and pastas, diners enlist the services of head bartender Francis Verrall. After speaking together in hushed tones, Verrall returns to the bar and pensively peruses the shelves. He unscrews the cap of one bottle, takes a whiff and returns it to the shelf. He inspects another and another, but puts them both back. Finally, his eyes perk up. He brings a bottle to the bar and pours its sepia solution into a delicate tulipshaped glass.

A bouquet of aromas begins to blossom. One sip tantalizes the palate. A smack of sugar and bright floral notes lands first, then builds to bitter orange peel and licorice. Luscious cola and molasses linger at the finish.

The beautiful Back to Black cocktail combines bitter and smoky flavors. On the next page, Francis Verrall, who was born in England, tended bar in Brooklyn and Manhattan for 10 years before moving to Pacific Grove.

What is this mysterious elixir? Amaro.

Amaro (or amari, plural) is a class of Italian bittersweet herbal liqueurs, the origin of which dates back more than 200 years. It starts with a neutral base (either a spirit or wine) infused with a variety of botanicals—herbs and flowers, citrus and bark, seeds and spices. Every amaro recipe is distinct, a proprietary secret passed down through generations of distillers, its flavors reflective of the terroir of the region where it’s crafted. In southern Italy, where citrus groves are abundant, amari tend toward the sweeter side. In the north, amari carry fragrant, herbaceous notes from the flora growing in the shadow of the Alps.

Amaro was first created for medicinal purposes, and—like many spirits—owes its origin to medieval monks. Tending the garden, they had an intimate knowledge of local botany, which proved instrumental in crafting restorative tonics. The earliest amari served as digestive aids to settle the stomach after a meal. (At the time, poor preservation of food led to many ailments and natural herbs brought soothing relief.)

Growing demand in the 19th century pivoted production of amaro from the church to commercial operations, giving rise to the amaro we know today. Sugar became an integral part of the recipe to soften the bitter herbs, making it more palatable—and popular—as an after-dinner drink, or digestivo. With their medicinal applications, many amari remained legal during Prohibition, often with a doctor’s prescription. After World War II, amaro shed its reputation as a solely curative concoction and became something to sip and savor simply for pleasure.

APPRECIATING AMARO

Amaro surged in popularity over the past decade. The obligatory bottle or two used to sit obscured behind more popular spirits, but now bars in major cities proudly spotlight their bitter boozes for eager customers. Verrall recognizes bartenders helped foster this newfound appreciation for amaro in the United States. “Diners ask, ‘Oh, what do you like?’ and we answer, ‘Amaro.’” On their recommendation, Americans are discovering the bitter Italian favorite.

“I think people are more adventurous these days,” observes Verrall. “People’s tastes are changing, especially with bitter things.” He cites diners’ appetite for bitter chocolate, bitter greens, bitter beer and bitter cocktails.

Verrall takes pride in his role as amaro ambassador and steward for the storied history of the bitter beverage. He’s not just awakening palates to new bittersweet flavors, he’s often helping diners rediscover family traditions. “With the connection Monterey has to Italy, I’ve seen a lot of younger people interested in amaro because their grandparents drank it,” he says. “They want to try it because it’s part of their heritage.”

Verrall stocks what’s likely the largest selection of amari in Monterey County. Mezzaluna’s bar boasts 35 amaro options and Verrall aspires to grow the collection even further to 50. “You find something you love and really go for it. I’d like to be known for having a crazy selection of amaro.”

He’s quick to remind that amaro isn’t a singular spirit, but a spectrum of styles. “Amari come in so many different flavors.”

Light amari—Meletti, Nonino and Montenegro—are citrus forward and make for easy sipping, while others—Averna and Lucano—have a bit more body to them with darker color and more alcohol. Herbs dominate Bràulio and other Alpine amari, while vegetables lend bitter notes to Cynar, made from artichokes.

Others may be smoky, like rabarbaros made with dried Chinese rhubarb, and evoke comparisons to mezcal or Scotch. Fernets are brawny versions with higher proof and bold notes. This style enjoys celebrity status now thanks to the Fernet-Branca brand, a bartender favorite (see sidebar page 46).

Amaro translates to “bitter” in Italian, but don’t confuse amari with bitters. Bitters—like Angostura or Peychaud’s—are intense tinctures of alcohol and botanicals that accent a beverage, but amari are milder (and, unlike bitters, potable) thanks to lower alcohol by volume and the addition of sugar.

There’s a whole world of bitter liqueurs beyond amaro too. Herbaceous German Jägermeister and Underberg appear similar in taste and appearance, but fall under their own classification. On bar shelves, amari often sit alongside Italian aperitivo spirits—Aperol, Campari and such— but Italian traditions do distinguish the two.

There’s no strict rule, but aperitivi tilt toward tart citrus to awaken the palate before a meal while amari slant sweeter as the meal’s final flourish. However, many aperitivi share the same bitter ingredients as amari and many low-alcohol amari are increasingly popular in pre-dinner spritz cocktails. A more reliable distinction? Aperitivo spirits are usually lighter in both color and alcohol content and they’re usually served mixed (not neat).

NEW WORLD AMARO

Unlike Champagne or Prosecco, amaro production doesn’t enjoy protected status. The growing popularity of amari has inspired many domestic interpretations from distilleries across the U.S. Verrall notes many new and inventive options from distilleries coast to coast. “Italian amaro? Those guys have been making amaro for hundreds of years from an old family recipe. American amari are still so young and people are trying different stuff.”

Pineapple Amaro from Minnesota’s Heirloom Liqueurs spins a tropical twist with sweet pineapple that softens the bitter blow. Falcon Spirits’ Fernet Francisco is a homegrown take on the city’s beloved Fernet-Branca—the other San Francisco treat. Amaro Angeleno from Ventura Spirits in southern California celebrates citrus in a spirit it cheekily calls a “Caliamaro.” Don Ciccio & Figli of Washington, D.C. transports family liqueur traditions from the Amalfi Coast to America with its C3 Carciofo that riffs on the classic Cynar.

When choosing selections for Mezzaluna, Verrall prioritizes quality over quantity. He’s careful to sample and scrutinize each prospective addition. He has curated the list purposefully to assemble a diverse assortment. “I’ve got a selection of fernet styles, more Alpine styles, lighter and medium-bodied amari, more citrus-driven amari—I have something for everybody.”

Asked to select an amaro for a diner, Verrall is methodical, much like a sommelier recommending a bottle of wine. He asks questions to gauge a diner’s palate before offering a suggestion.

For novices, Verrall recommends Meletti, which is Mezzaluna’s top-selling amaro. “It’s really approachable, a lighter style amaro,” he explains. Notes of violet, saffron and caramel balance its gentle bitterness.

Amaro enthusiasts will recognize many of the storied brands from Italy at Mezzaluna. “When I started out, I had the ones that I knew that many people were familiar with. As time has gone on, I’m trying to find more small-distribution amari you can’t necessarily find in your local liquor store.”

What’s his personal pick? “I like something that’s balanced. I tend to go for more Alpine amari.” Bràulio—made with 13 fresh herbs including gentian, juniper, peppermint, star anise, wormwood and yarrow—is his favorite. But Verrall emphasizes there’s room for all amari, of course. “That’s what I like personally, but I appreciate all amaro flavors, really.”

Raúl Nava is a freelance writer covering dining and restaurants across the Central Coast. His favorite amaro is Cynar. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram: @offthemenu831.

Where to Buy Amaro Want to try a taste of amaro? These local restaurants and bars have standout selections to enjoy neat or served in cocktails.

515 Kitchen & Cocktails 515 Cedar St., Santa Cruz 831-425-5051, 515santacruz.com

Mentone 174 Aptos Village Way, Aptos 831-708-4040, mentonerestaurant.com (Full bottles also available for retail purchase) Mezzaluna Pasteria & Mozzarella Bar 1188 Forest Ave., Pacifi c Grove 831-372-5325, mezzalunapasteria.com Pearl Hour 214 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey 831-657-9447, pearlhour.com (Full bottles also available for retail purchase and delivery)

Looking to stock some amaro for your home bar? Try one of these local liquor stores. Deer Park Wine & Spirits 783 Rio Del Mar Blvd., Ste. 27, Aptos 831-688-1228, deerparkwines.com 41st Avenue Liquor 2155 41st Ave., Capitola 831-475-5117

Pacifi c Grove Bottle Shop 1112 Forest Ave., Ste. 5105, Pacifi c Grove 831-372-6091

Shopper’s Corner 622 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz 831-423-1398, shopperscorner.com Bitters & Bottles in South San Francisco also off ers a diverse selection of amari for shipping within California. Order online at bittersandbottles.com.

Please fi nd our Dine Local Guide online this winter

ediblemontereybay.com