LAST CALL

For a second, Anthony Vitacca seems like he can’t believe what he’s feeling.

“Look! I have goosebumps just thinking about this,” he says. “This is my thing! Creating, like a chef!”

He’s diving into how he designed his latest cocktail menu, how he’s planning an ice program and how much he’s enjoying reinventing Bar Napoli, formerly Vino, next to Little Napoli in Carmel.

“I can do this! I want to impress people!” he says. “No one is doing this in this town, and they’re definitely not doing it for happy hour.”

He’s all kinds of fired up— “Maybe I’m boasting, but I’m proud of what I do!”—but at the same time he appears more relaxed and happier than I can ever remember seeing him.

He agrees with the diagnosis and attributes his vibe to a range of things. He nods to the “system and structure” he learned from Downtown Dining group, working nearly two decades at Montrio Bistro. It’s a structure he is now applying to Bar Napoli, Little Napoli, Carmel Bakery, Vesuvio and its rooftop Star Bar. He acknowledges the benefits of working smarter (hello, batch cocktails) and not harder (less time making drinks so he can focus on big picture improvements). He talks about the foundation owners Rich and Sandra Pèpe have created, and their willingness to invest in infrastructure, tools and technology, at one point whipping out an imported Flavour Blaster Pro cocktail gun that makes giant bubbles of flavored vapor.

“We’re going to add some shelving,” he says, “so I can have more toys.”

Bar Napoli has had its liquor license for three years, but never identified as or presented as a bar, partly because it started as one of the city’s first wine tasting rooms, and still sells many retail bottles.

“A lot of people don’t know!” Pèpe says.

Vitacca’s leadership will change that. The 4–6pm Wednesday–Sunday happy hour, with $5.50 draft beers and well drinks, $6 wines and $7.50 craft cocktails, will draw plenty of attention too.

The happy hour drink menu pops with interesting ingredients and alchemy. I tried three new creations and each impressed, particularly the Miracles in Pairs (see recipe) and the bright, balanced and fresh Nonno Pèpe with Lunazul tequila, strawberry-infused PèpeCello,

smoked chili bitters and orange and lime juices. Even the one that didn’t do it for me flavor-wise, the Carmel Cola, was remarkable in its composition. I mean, who summons an RC Cola profile from amaro, ginger beer and cherry bark bitters? The happy hour food, meanwhile, leverages what Little Napoli does well. Items like saffron-risotto arancini, meatball lollipops and Tuscan white bean soup run $6, and pizzas like the white truffle are $13. LAST CALL Vitacca comes as part of a transition that passes the Pèpe BAR NAPOLI torch to Rich’s sons Christian and Gian, whom Vitacca will help mentor. Gian, who over-

Barman Anthony Vitacca shakes up sees much of the day-to-day opCarmel’s cocktail culture eration, provides perspective on what Vitacca brings. STORY AND PHOTO BY MARK C. ANDERSON “People say he’s probably the best bartender on the Monterey Peninsula, but in addition to the bar skills, he’s provided a lot of leadership,” Gian says. “He’s a bit of a perfectionist, with high standards that are elevating our management team. “We like him because he’s Italian too.” Miracles in Pairs Vitacca’s creation nods to a pair of twins who work for the family company, and the abiding spiritual belief that magic happens in tandem. 1½ ounces Absolut pear vodka ¾ ounce lavender-infused PèpeCello (limoncello) ¼ ounce Lillet 2–3 dashes ginger bitters 1 ounce pineapple purée ½ ounce fresh lemon juice Pour all ingredients into a cocktail shaker. Add ice. Shake, shake, shake. Double strain into martini glass. Garnish with dehydrated lemon slice. Makes 1 cocktail.

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