WHAT’S IN SEASON

WHAT’S IN SEASON UNEXPECTED APPLES

A favorite autumn fruit falls far from the tree

STORY, RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMBER TURPIN AND JESSICA TUNIS

Autumn is the time of apples in their greatest profusion, variety and freshness. Like so many foods, they have been commoditized to the point where we expect access to them year round, but truly fall is their time to shine, in all their green and red and yellow and russet crispness. Each variety embodies a particular flavor and texture, which of course influences the role they play in cookery. The following recipes are meant to highlight and celebrate this commonest of fruits in uncommon ways.

Olliebollen

This is a riff on an old Dutch recipe that Jess’ mother used to make for a special after-school treat. The word olliebollen translates literally to “oil ball” (the apple dough is fried in hot oil) and has been described as a precursor to the doughnut. In Holland, olliebollen are a seasonal sweet, enjoyed in the new year, but when the Dutch came to these shores, they became more of a year-round goodie. We’ve further adapted them to this land by replacing the traditional raisins and currants with dried cranberries. We think the tart pop of the native cranberry suits the recipe better than the sweetness of raisins, but use your discretion, or experiment with what seems best to you.

For the dough ½ cup milk ¼ cup butter ¼ cup sugar 1 package active dry yeast ¼ cup warm water 2¼ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 eggs 1 cup tart apple, peeled and chopped ½ teaspoon grated lemon peel, or use a small citrus zester to make longer strips of lemon peel from 1 medium lemon 2/3 cup dried cranberries, chopped Sunflower or avocado oil, for frying

For the topping ¼ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup powdered sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Scald the milk in a small saucepan. Remove from heat and add the butter and ¼ cup sugar. Stir until the butter is melted and set aside to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast on the surface of the warm water and let it stand for 5 minutes to rehydrate and awaken the yeast. Whisk the cooled milk mixture into the yeast slurry.

In another bowl, combine the flour with the salt, cinnamon and lemon peel. Add ½ of the flour mixture to the liquid yeast mixture, beating until well-blended.

Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the remaining flour mixture and blend well. Stir in the apples and cranberries.

Cover the bowl and set in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 1¼ hours. Dough should be spongy and moist.

When the dough has risen, pour 2 inches of oil into a heavy-bottomed saucepan, and heat to 350° F.

Lower heaping tablespoonfuls of the spongy dough into the boiling oil, 3 or 4 at a time. Cook the blobs, turning once, until a rich golden brown color develops.

Remove the olliebollen from the hot oil with a slotted spoon and allow to drain on paper towels for a brief moment, while you get the next few balls into the fryer. While the dough is still warm but no longer draining oil, roll the fried dough shapes in the topping mixture, composed of both powdered and granulated sugar, and cinnamon.

These are loveliest when still warm from the oil, but they can also be eaten cold for breakfast or frozen and reheated for 10 minutes in a 400° F oven. Makes 12-15 olliebollen.

Savory Apple Chips

Are you one of those people who are always on the hunt for the perfect sweet to savory to salty ratio in your snacking sessions? These apple chips, dehydrated or baked, are a healthy alternative to processed grain snacks, and play with the concept of sweet with savory components. The main ingredient is just apples! You’ll want to use about one apple per dehydrator tray, depending on the size of the trays. It is best to avoid really juicy apple varieties when dehydrating, but sweeter varieties are nice to counterbalance the savory seasonings. We recommend using fuji, gala, pink lady, honeycrisp, or golden delicious apples. If you prefer tart flavors, use varieties like granny smith, pippin, McIntosh or jonagold. The flavors will concentrate as they dry.

Seasoning options 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning 1 teaspoon curry powder and pinch kosher salt “Cheezy Flavor” 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast and pinch kosher salt

Wash and dry the apples. Using a very sharp knife or mandoline, thinly slice the apple into 1/8-inch rounds. You can remove the core and seeds if desired, but it is not necessary. It is important to keep the thickness of the cut apples even for consistency in drying time. To prevent browning, soak the apple slices in lemon water.

Layer the slices on your dehydrator trays evenly, avoiding any overlapping, and sprinkle with desired seasonings.

Dehydrate at 125º F or 52º C for 4–6 hours for chewy dried apples OR up to 8–10 hours for crispy chips. (Remember, they will crisp up even more as they dry and cool.)

Rotate the trays once halfway through the drying time, and check them once every hour or so to make sure they are not overcooking.

Note: If you don’t have a dehydrator, you can also make these in the oven. Set the temperature to 180° F. Spread the sliced apples on parchment-lined baking trays (single layer, no overlapping) and bake for 2–3 hours, flipping the slices every half an hour.

Tip: After cooling, or over time, if your apple chips are not as crisp as you prefer, you can reheat them in a low oven for a couple of minutes. Just be sure to watch them closely to prevent overcooking and burning.

White Bean Apple Chili

This classic stew is perhaps best suited for fall, when the air gets a bit crisp and you crave a cozy bowl of something hearty. This version incorporates apples and leeks, while omitting the traditional tomato and chili powder elements we associate with chili. But don’t worry, you won’t miss them.

3 tablespoons neutral oil 1 large leek or 2 small leeks, cleaned and sliced 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds ½ teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon fresh thyme 1 large bay leaf 2 tart green apples (granny smith, etc.), cored, seeded and cut into small chunks 2 15-ounce cans white beans, rinsed and drained (or 4–5 cups cooked white beans) 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth

Heat oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the chopped leeks and sauté until softened and slightly caramelized. Add the salt, cumin seeds, coriander, black pepper, thyme and bay leaf and stir to combine well. Add the chopped apple and stir, cooking another couple of minutes to soften.

Add the beans and the broth, mixing well, and simmer on low for about 20 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings if desired.

Serve topped with grated cheese, sour cream or crispy bits of bacon. Makes 6–8 servings.

Contributors Amber Turpin and Jessica Tunis live in the Santa Cruz Mountains and have been friends for a long time. They share a love of food and writing, adventure and good company.