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CONTENTS WINTER 2024 Regulars
Recipes
4 EDIBLE Epistles
10 Lapsang-Smoked Sea Bass
8 The SEASONAL Table Cooking with Tea
15 EDIBLE for Kids
12 French Toast with Orange Rooibos Syrup 14 Chocolate Matcha Green Tea Cupcakes 29 Pasta e Fagioli in Parm Broth 30 Strozzapreti with Honeynut Squash, Radicchio and Taleggio
38 Farmers’ Market Guide
Features
Cover
6 EDIBLE Notable
It would take multiple issues over multiple seasons to even scratch the surface of the world of tea. Join us as we share just a little (starting on page 8). Photo by Viktor Budnik
A Cut Above BY CYNDI BEMEL
16 TEA Culture Tradition by the Teacup
This Page How to brew the perfect cup? Check out page 24. Photo by Naomi Henry.
BY JENNIFER RICHARDSON
19 Herbal Tea Garden 22 Local Sips 24 Brewing the Perfect Cup
26 EDIBLE Endeavor Just Add Sauce BY VICTORIA THOMAS
32 EDIBLE Notable Four to Explore in Newhall BY SARENE WALLACE
36 A GENEROUS Helping Guided by Food Equity BY LISA RIZNIKOVE
40 EDIBLE Ink Masala Chai BY BAMBI EDLUND
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BEYOND THE BAGEL SMOKED SALMON ISN’T JUST FOR BREAKFAST ANYMORE!
Kvarøy Arctic Smoked Norwegian Salmon is the perfect way to add salmon to your dishes any day of the week. At Kvarøy Arctic, our smokehouse experts naturally smoke the salmon with extravagant care and technique, creating a luxurious mild flavor that will transport you to the great Norwegian outdoors.
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EDIBLE Epistles
edible
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t Edible San Fernando Valley magazine, our small team is committed to bringing you the best issue we can every season. One of the most important tasks for our editorial team is fact-checking. Wait, did you know we fact-check every article to make sure we get everything correct? It’s something we’re very proud of. Fact-checking takes time, sometimes time we don’t have, but we won’t budge. It’s just too important, for us and for you, our readers. Sharon Pember is our behind-the-scenes, detail-oriented whiz who we first started working with in 2016 at Edible Ventura County and continued with as we launched Edible San Fernando Valley in 2022. If you’ve been the subject of one of our articles, you’ve met Sharon by email. For all our other readers, let me introduce you. Sharon retired from a 35-year teaching career, where she taught lower elementary grade students in Delaware and California. A lifelong learner, she then trained to be a Braille transcriber, where she transcribed mainly college texts for 10 years. She also enjoys reading, being with friends and family, going to plays and traveling. She hates to admit that she likes playing games on her devices. No judgment. I asked Sharon what she likes about the gig—other than working with us, of course. She said it’s the flexibility she has to work on the articles, to find out about new restaurants and products and learn their background. Sharon feels fortunate that she and her husband have taken wonderful trips, where they’ve seen magnificent sights. This season, we hope you feel fortunate, too. For what you’ve done and for what you look forward to this year. All of us at Edible San Fernando Valley wish you a peaceful new year.
San Fernando Valley publisher, editor in chief
Tami Chu
managing editor
Sarene Wallace copy editor
Doug Adrianson design
Cheryl Angelina Koehler contributors
Will and Ani Bailey Cyndi Bemel • Adriel Chu Deborah Pappalau Jennifer Richardson Lisa Riznikove • Victoria Thomas Sarene Wallace photographers
Cyndi Bemel • Viktor Budnik Naomi Henry • Andrew Thomas illustrators
Ramiah Chu • Bambi Edlund sales
Mary DiCesare mary@edibleventuracounty.com subscriptions
EdibleSanFernandoValley.com info@ediblesfvalley.com
Sarene Wallace Managing Editor
contact us
Edible San Fernando Valley 2470 Stearns St. #142 Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-622-9355 info@ediblesfvalley.com
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anuary is National Tea Month. Did we know that when we planned out our tea issue? Well, no. But like so many things that happen with this publication, serendipity seems to rule the day. In fact, serendipity might just be the word for this new year. It’s hard to predict what could be coming down the pike, and even though we plan and prep, we have all seen how easily plans can be derailed. We continue to be inspired by the local folks who share their stories with us, and the local businesses who trust that you can help them make it through tough times. And we can’t wait to bring more of that inspiration to you this year. Thank you for sharing our journey. May serendipity find you often in the next several seasons. Happy New Year!
Tami Chu Publisher
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Edible San Fernando Valley is published seasonally, four times a year. We are an advertising- and subscriber-supported publication, locally and independently owned and operated and a member of Edible Communities, Inc. Distribution is throughout the San Fernando Valley, Santa Clarita Valley and Pasadena and by subscription for $29 per year. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2024. All rights reserved.
OUR MISSION: Currently in its second year, Edible San Fernando Valley was founded to document and bring to life the interest in farm-to-table, organic and natural foods, and to acknowledge the people and communities who feed and sustain us. We want to inspire readers to support and celebrate the growers, producers, chefs, food and beverage artisans and other food professionals in our community.
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All Good Things Come From Earth, Fire, and Water Whether from our kilns, our kitchen, or our organic garden, we specialize in producing small batch artisanal hot sauces and handmade ceramic kitchen food prep items.
Order today! creativefirekilnandkitchen.com EdibleSanFernandoValley.com
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EDIBLE Notable
A CUT ABOVE
A Meat Maestro and Coffee Hotshot are the Dynamic Duo behind Meat & Essentials WORDS BY CYNDI BEMEL | PHOTOS BY CYNDI BEMEL AND JIM STAUB
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eat & Essentials is more than just a butcher shop—it’s a culinary odyssey, curated by the dynamic duo of Mel Cain and Eagle Yu. Their story began over gluten-free vegan pastries and organic cuts of meat while working at the Melrose Place Farmers Market. It doesn’t exactly sound like the makings of a happily-ever-after-fairy-tale romance, but it laid the foundation for a successful love and business partnership. They embarked on this venture during the tumultuous early days of the COVID pandemic, relying solely on their own funds and unbridled passion. Since its grand opening in 2022, Meat & Essentials has become a haven for discerning food enthusiasts, drawing patrons from San Marino and the surrounding areas. “Eagle and I definitely wanted Meat & Essentials to be a neighborhood spot that people feel comfortable coming to and getting to know their local butcher,” says Cain. “Meat & Essentials is first and foremost a butcher shop and market,” though it does offer a limited menu of sandwiches and espresso drinks. (And Cain’s housemade Happy Cookie: a gluten-free, vegan “kitchen sink” of a cookie that is best described as a marriage between a chocolate chip cookie and a granola bar.) Yu was a computer programmer before making the 180-degree career change to butchery. To learn the craft, he apprenticed at the now-closed Fleishers Craft Butchery, a whole animal butchery in upstate New York. The experience helped him embrace
Mel Cain and Eagle Yu opened Meat & Essentials in 2022 to create a neighborhood hot spot for meat and market needs.
“I wanted to do something that would benefit people and keep them healthy, so organic foods, regenerative farming practices and the nose-to-tail approach made logical sense,” says Yu, who’s more of a meat maestro than a butcher. 6
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traditional farming and breeding methods that are still sustainable and more beneficial nutritionally as well as environmentally than typical commercial practices, he says. “I wanted to do something that would benefit people and keep them healthy, so organic foods, regenerative farming practices and the nose-to-tail approach made logical sense,” says Yu, who’s more of a meat maestro than a butcher. “I know meat,” he says humbly. The shop sells and promotes all cuts of meat—not just the sexy ones—because “in conjunction with minimizing waste, it’s to honor the animal and hard work that goes into raising livestock,” Yu says. So you’ll find a selection of beef, pork, lamb and chicken. They also offer organ meat, bones, bone stock and lard, suet and tallow. Turkey, duck and geese are available seasonally and upon request. For nonmeat eaters, they have frozen nut patties made in-house, as well as many other vegetarian and vegan products. Not sure what to pick? Yu’s extremely helpful in suggesting cuts of meat that best suit your meal plans, sharing recipes from all culinary regions, and offering cooking and marinating tips. But the sausages, oh, the sausages! Each bite is a flavor journey created by Yu, from the Thai-inspired Sai Oua and zesty Italian with toasted fennel (The Godfather) to the El Niño with garlic and fried shallots. Cain left her successful publishing career in Australia to emigrate to the States with her young daughter. Propelled by her love for coffee, she opened her first café about a year after she arrived here. This was before Cain and Yu opened Meat & Essentials, where the café area is an Australian-style espresso, wine and beer bar. The
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made-to-order drinks use Tectonic Coffee, a Los Angeles–based roaster that is environmentally conscious and sources beans that are ethically produced. Cain and Yu collaborate on the breakfast and lunch menu, showcasing their creativity and love for global flavors. The “It’s Not a Banh Mi” sandwich is a playful take on the Vietnamese banh mi and captures the essence of their culinary ingenuity. Signature Taiwanese dishes like lu ro (braised pork belly) pay homage to Yu’s heritage. “Lu ro is one of the things you need to eat before you die,” Yu strongly feels. There are also vegetarian sandwiches and other menu items. The couple focuses on cooking with seasonal ingredients and sources local and domestic products, and specialty imported items. “We stock the fridge and the shelves with the things that we personally use at the shop and at home,” Cain says. The community-driven ethos remains at the forefront, with Cain and Yu embracing slow and deliberate growth, allowing the culinary narrative to unfold organically. They have exciting plans, such as opening the back courtyard for dining, holding barbecues and even having visiting chefs share their recipes. If you haven’t experienced the magic of this gastronomic haven, consider this your invitation. Meat & Essentials isn’t just a shop, it’s where every visit is an exploration of food, flavors and community. Meat & Essentials 2004 Huntington Dr. San Marino MeatAndEssentials.com
Cyndi Bemel possesses a diverse repertoire of storytelling abilities in various mediums, including photography, written and audio content. Her work has been published and exhibited on a national and international scale. As a Master Gardener and Master Food Preserver, Bemel exhibits a penchant for gastronomy, outdoor exploration and adventure-seeking.
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A SEASONAL Table
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COOKING WITH TEA BY DEBORAH PAPPALAU PHOTOS BY NAOMI HENRY
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ost people are aware of tea’s power to energize, to soothe, to heal and to comfort with its aroma, taste and well-documented medicinal qualities. From the fruity, sweet teas of South Africa to soothing herbal brews, a cup of tea can stimulate mood, energy level, overall well-being—not to mention your taste buds—in endless ways that have been well-known for hundreds of years. Less well-known are the ways it can be used in cooking to enhance and infuse aroma and flavor throughout a meal, from salad dressings to desserts. And while half of the art of a good cup of tea comes from teasing out the layers of bold, spicy, sweet flavors, cooking with tea is an exercise in subtlety. Even strong, bold teas can be easily overpowered by other ingredients, so finding ways to bring out the essence of a particular tea requires an understanding of how to work with it to create layers of flavor. Some years ago, I visited some local teahouses to see what I could learn about cooking and baking with tea. My first stop, The Healing Tree in Thousand Oaks, was an oasis of serenity and calm from the moment I walked in and heard the little bell jingling on the door. Large wooden cabinets lined the tiny apothecary and tea bar with rows and rows of heavy glass jars filled with countless varieties of loose-leaf teas. Moe Lam, the store’s herbalist and partner, said that tea had been used as a garnish and in soups before it was drunk as a beverage, and that some restaurants in China cook with tea. Employee Alicia Bondio excitedly shared lots of tips and suggestions for using tea in dry rubs and brines, and we sampled a variety of Lapsang Souchong teas that could be used for those purposes. These Chinese black teas have a smoky flavor because the leaves are roasted over pinewood, and I knew that she was right—the strong woodsy aroma of this tea could be used to give a piece of meat a lovely smoky flavor. “If you live in an apartment and don’t have access to an outdoor barbecue, brining meat all night in a tea like Lapsang before baking or grilling in the oven, gives a
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smoky flavor while keeping food moist,” Bondio said. “This is how I baked my turkey this year and it was wonderful.” I took home a few ounces of Lapsang to try in the Indian-inspired smoked seabass recipe you will find on page 10. My next stop was All Things Tea in Camarillo, a European-style tearoom owned by Donna Kashola, who was initially inspired by teas that friends had brought back from other countries. She decided to source the tea herself and began selling online. In 2009, she opened the tearoom and still operates the online store. Kashola carries 135 varieties of tea and is a Certified Tea Specialist by the Specialty Tea Institute. She compares teas by cupping them sideby-side and evaluating for their sensory characteristics including aroma, flavor and color. She also taps into tea’s healing properties by working with health practitioners to develop special blends for their clients. The charming tearoom serves tea by the pot, along with pastries like scones, macarons and truffles as well as sandwiches and salads. Kashola also offers a traditional English tea service of scones, jams, sandwiches and, of course, tea. “We like to use tea as an ingredient, like a liqueur, to give essence to foods,” Kashola said, adding that she is always on the lookout for ways to incorporate tea into the menu. They steep various teas—like apple spice or mint—in cream to make their chocolate truffles, and chai, raspberry or lavender tea in cream to make scones. I tried a house-made French macaron with culinary matcha green tea and a filling of dark chocolate ganache that was beautiful to look at, slightly fragrant and not too sweet. Kashola’s advice for using tea in cooking is, “Like wine, don’t use tea in food that you wouldn’t drink.” With this advice I picked up a couple of ounces of a lovely lemon rooibos tea and headed home with thoughts of a silky panna cotta steeped in this fragrant, citrusy tea.
Deborah Pappalau is a Ventura County–based freelance writer and avid home cook. She is the former editor of the online publication My Daily Find Conejo Valley and was one of the winners in the 2012 Los Angeles Times Battle of the Burgers and the 2016 Los Angeles Times Holiday Cookie Bake-Off.
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Steeped In Information Here are some ideas for cooking with tea. Steeping: Just like brewing a cup of tea, you can steep your tea leaves in milk, cream, broth or alcohol then add to recipes as usual. For example, steep Earl Grey leaves in cream for an Earl Grey crème brûlée. A delicate white tea would steep well with a Sauvignon Blanc and herbs to go with a mild fish, says Kashola. Grinding: The leaves can be ground and combined with other ingredients and used as a rub for meats. They can also be ground with sugar to add a layer of flavor to desserts. Use an orange blossom oolong with spices to make a rub for a roasted pork tenderloin, suggests Kashola. You can also use an herb grinder to make tea sugars, such as Earl Grey and lavender, to top shortbreads or scones, she says. Smoking: Use in place of wood chips when smoking meats or vegetables. Like wood chips, tea releases aromatic smoke that contributes flavor to foods. A mild smoky tea, like a Japanese green variety such as hojicha, would pair well with chicken or fish, she says.
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La p sa n g-S m ok ed-Sea Bass WITH TAMARIND GARAM MASALA GLAZE This recipe comes courtesy of Deborah Pappalau. “Lapsang is a tea from China that has a strong woodsy aroma from being roasted over pinewood. It reminds me of a favorite Indian tandoori sea bass from a restaurant in Santa Monica that we used to go to. The fish is firm but very moist with a slightly smoky flavor. In this recipe, I used Lapsang Souchong to create smoke and as an ingredient in the rub mixture. A stovetop smoker or wok is ideal but you can also make this dish in your oven or on an outdoor grill by placing the smoking spices in a smoker box,” she notes. Serves 3-4 1 pound sea bass or other firm white fish, such as halibut 1 tablespoon Lapsang Souchong loose-leaf tea 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 tablespoon uncooked rice
SPICE RUB 1 teaspoon garam masala 1 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds 1 teaspoon Lapsang Souchong loose-leaf tea 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon brown sugar
GLAZE 4 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons tamarind chutney* 1 tablespoon minced ginger 1 teaspoon spice rub mixture Using a mortar and pestle or small food processor, grind all spice rub ingredients to a coarse powder. Reserve 1 teaspoon rub for the glaze. Coat sea bass filets with rub mixture and refrigerate uncovered for 2 hours. Preheat oven to 400°. Line a roasting pan with foil. Sprinkle tea, brown sugar and rice mixture on shallow roasting pan. Spray a wire rack with vegetable oil cooking spray and place over the roasting pan. Place in oven. When tea begins to smoke, about 5 minutes, place sea bass filets on rack and cover completely with foil. Bake about 15 minutes. In the meantime, combine glaze ingredients in a small saucepan, stirring occasionally, and simmer until glaze thickens. Remove foil from fish and brush with glaze. Bake for an additional 5 to 7 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through. Brush with additional glaze and serve with basmati rice and steamed asparagus or vegetable of your choice. * Tamarind chutney can be found at Indian or specialty grocers. Hoisin sauce can be substituted. 10
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French Toast with Orange Rooibos Syrup This recipe comes courtesy of Donna Kashola, owner of All Things Tea in Camarillo, and is adapted from A Touch of Rooibos (Rooibos Ltd., 2009). Rooibos tea has notes of honey and spice, which make it an ideal pairing with orange. The syrup also works well on pancakes and waffles. Serves 4 ⅔ cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1 teaspoon orange zest 1 cup Orange Rooibos Syrup (recipe below) 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon vanilla Pinch of salt 4–5 thick slices of day-old bread (white or wheat) 4 large eggs ½ cup buttermilk
Add orange juice, orange zest and Orange Rooibos Syrup to a small, heavybottom saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally until it thickens, about 20 minutes. Stir in butter, vanilla and salt. Set aside and keep warm. Whisk together eggs and buttermilk, and put in a shallow pan (a rectangular baking dish works well). Add bread and turn to coat both sides with the egg mixture. Leave bread to soak for a few minutes to absorb mixture. Heat a pan over medium heat, lightly coat with cooking oil spray. Fry bread until it’s golden brown on each side. To serve, top French toast with Orange Rooibos Syrup and a sprinkling of chopped walnuts.
½ cup chopped walnuts
ORANGE ROOIBOS SYRUP 5 cups water 5 tablespoons rooibos tea ¼ cup orange blossom honey ¾ cup sugar 1 (1-inch by 3-inch) piece orange peel Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan. Over medium-high heat, stir until sugar and honey are dissolved. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, keeping the syrup at a boil. Stir occasionally until the syrup is reduced to 1½ cups, 45–60 minutes. Strain syrup with a wiremesh strainer. It’s OK if some tea leaves remain in the syrup. The syrup can be made a day ahead.
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It’s always tea time in the garden. RARE
SEEDS
Save the date THE NATIONAL HEIRLOOM EXPO Sept. 10-12, 2024 | Ventura Co. Fairgrounds
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Chocolate-Matcha Green Tea Cupcakes Chocolate and matcha green tea are a natural pairing in these light-brown cupcakes, whose texture is a cupcake-muffin cross. Our tastetesters liked the cupcakes even without frosting and said they could eat them for breakfast. The recipe comes courtesy of Donna Kashola, owner of All Things Tea in Camarillo. Makes 12 cupcakes
CUPCAKES
MATCHA BUTTERCREAM FROSTING
2 cups cake flour (less 1 tablespoon)
1 stick butter, room temperature
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon matcha green tea
¼ teaspoon baking soda
3 cups powdered sugar, sifted
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons half-and-half
1 tablespoon matcha green tea 3 tablespoons cocoa powder ½ cup unsalted butter, melted 1 cup granulated sugar ¼ cup plain yogurt, room temperature ¾ cup whole milk 2 eggs, separated 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate, melted
Mix powdered sugar, matcha and butter on low speed in a stand mixer or use a hand-held eletric mixer in medium bowl until blended. Add vanilla and 1 tablespoon half-andhalf. Gradually add just enough remaining half-and-half to make frosting smooth. Add a few drops of half-and-half if frosting is too thick. If it’s too thin, beat in a small amount of powdered sugar.
Place an oven rack in the center position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a cupcake tin with cupcake liners. In a medium bowl whisk together the cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and matcha. Set aside. In another medium bowl, whisk together butter, sugar, yogurt, milk, egg yolks and vanilla extract. Whisk the dry mix into the wet ingredients and mix just until combined and no lumps remain. Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or hand-held mixer), beat the egg whites until they form medium peaks. Fold the egg white mixture into the batter until fully incorporated. Pour batter evenly into prepared cupcake pan, and bake for about 15 minutes, until a toothpick comes out crumb-free. Remove from oven and let cool completely on a wire rack before frosting.
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TEA Culture
TRADITION BY THE TEACUP Many cultures toast special events with tea WORDS BY JENNIFER RICHARDSON
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round the world, tea is a significant part of many cultures, second only to water in its popularity as a beverage. Its importance extends far beyond quenching thirst; tea also supplies opportunities for reflection, hospitality and the expression of gratitude, to name just a few of its roles. Most tea is produced in China, India, Sri Lanka and Kenya, and it all originates from the Camellia sinensis plant. The level of oxidation is one key factor that decides the type of tea. For example, green tea is not oxidized; oolong tea is partially oxidized; and black tea, such as English breakfast tea, is oxidized for up to four hours. So the more the oxidation, the stronger the flavor. Sip a cup of your favorite tea as we explore tea traditions from six countries, encompassing different varietals, as well as etiquette, philosophy and, occasionally, snacks.
CHINESE WEDDING CEREMONIES China was the original producer of tea, and its history and culture go back thousands of years. Tea “carried 5,000 years of civilization,” says Chinese tea maker Lin Zhou Chong. No pressure, then, to describe it here in a couple of paragraphs! Tea culture spread across China starting in the Tang Dynasty (618– 906) and flourished during the Song Dynasty (960–1279). As Bret Hinch notes in his book The Rise of Tea Culture in China: The Invention of the Individual, the Song Dynasty equivalent of a Renaissance man was one who has mastered the game Go (weiqi), the zither, calligraphy, painting, shi and qu poetry, and tea. By the Ming Dynasty (1368– 1644), tea preparation resembled the same methods we use today. One still-common example of a Chinese tea ceremony takes place during a traditional Chinese marriage ceremony. Its roots may go as far back as the Tang Dynasty, when an early record of tea ceremonies records Tang Princess Wencheng’s marriage to Tibetan Emperor Songtsen Gampo. On their wedding day, the bride and groom serve tea to both their families, including parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles. It is an opportunity for an intimate, reflective moment before the larger ceremony, and allows the people getting married to express their gratitude and respect to their families. It also symbolizes the union of the two families.
JAPANESE TEA RITUAL Chado, the way of tea, is a formalized ritual for drinking tea in Japan steeped in Zen Buddhism. Central to the ceremony is the 37-step preparation and serving of tea, as well as the environment, including gardens outside the tearoom—the intimate, tatami-mat-lined room where the tea is served amid such decorations as calligraphy and flower arrangements. Guests kneel on the tatami mats while the host, who has likely trained for many years, conducts the ceremony, which lasts anywhere EdibleSanFernandoValley.com
from 45 minutes to several hours. While some ceremonies may include a meal, at a minimum wagashi (a traditional Japanese sweet that often has an intricate design) and matcha (powdered green tea) are served. True to its Buddhist roots, the goal is to be present in all aspects of the experience. Three Buddhist monks had an outsized influence on chado. Murata Shukō (1423–1502) advocated for the simple, spare aesthetic that still characterizes the ceremony. Takeno Jōō (1502–1555) brought wabi, the concept of “pure and rustic beauty” to tea drinking. His disciple, Sen no Rikyū (1522–1591) codified still-used guidelines for the ceremony, as well as for architecture and landscaping. Notably, he lowered the entrance to the tea hut so that all who entered had to bow, symbolizing equality among participants regardless of social class. However, it would take until the late 19th century before women were included in the ceremony. Today women are central to preserving chado, making up the majority of tea ceremony teachers and students.
RUSSIAN TEA SAMOVARS The literature of the Russian greats is littered with references to samovars, decorative metal urns used to boil water for tea. The samovar was invented in the Siberian town of Tula during the mid-1700s and is the center of the tea culture that took hold in Russia in the late 19th century as tea drinking spread across all classes. Taking tea is an informal, leisurely affair known as chainichat (passing time over tea), often taking place in private homes with friends and family. In Leo Tolstoy’s War and Peace, samovars supply refreshments at a society ball, merriment to soldiers during an otherwise miserably inclement night during the War of 1812 and anguish for a family that must leave their heirloom samovar behind during the evacuation of Moscow. Tea, zavarka, is poured from a pot into glasses with decorative metal holders, and guests may dilute it to their tastes with water from the samovar. A jam of syrup and whole berries is used to sweeten the tea, either by adding it directly to the cup or taking sips of tea and syrup in succession. Alternatively, it is entirely polite for guests to hold a cube of sugar between their teeth and sip their tea, an approach that sounds fun to execute even if the mechanics seemingly present a high risk of faux pas.
ENGLISH AFTERNOON TEA English afternoon tea of the American imagination—think tiered trays of dainty crustless sandwiches, scones, cakes, tea and maybe even a glass of champagne—dates back to the early 19th century. The Duchess of Bedford, Anna Maria Russell—friend to Queen Victoria—decided she needed something to tide her over between lunch (generally served at noon) and dinner, served no earlier than 7:30pm. The habit stuck, and the Duchess soon began inviting friends to join her. WINTER 2024 17
Afternoon tea is served around 3pm or 4pm and is an elegant affair. There is usually an elaborate menu of teas to choose from, akin to a wine list, followed by a succession of savory and sweet treats. Traditional fillings for those crustless sandwiches include egg and cress, smoked salmon, and cucumber, though more contemporary afternoon teas may include plant-based options. You’ll be hard-pressed to find afternoon tea happening outside of the fancy hotels and restaurants of England, but the daily ritual of “elevens” is alive and well in workplaces and homes around Britain and in parts of Latin America. It is, as the name implies, a break at 11am for a cup of tea and a snack.
MOROCCAN MINT TEA In Morocco, mint tea, known as touareg, is part of daily hospitality as well as celebrations of births, weddings, deaths and religious holidays. The ceremony is deeply ingrained in Moroccan culture and refusing an invitation to tea is a cause for great offense. While the origin of tea in Morocco is uncertain, the use of spearmint is sometimes attributed to the indigenous Berber people. Other key ingredients in touareg are strong green tea (known as gunpowder) and sugar. The ritual includes three rounds of tea served from an ornate teapot known as a berrad. The tea is poured theatrically from a height of at least a foot into glass cups, a method that expresses respect to guests and aerates the tea. In return, guests slurp rather than sip as an expression of appreciation.
AMERICAN ICED TEA Tea in colonial America got off to a shaky start—think Boston Tea Party. Still, drinking hot tea was popular, and that only began to change with the commercial availability of ice in the 19th century. Early incarnations of iced tea were often boozy punches diluted with tea. The first nonalcoholic iced tea recipes were published in the late 1800s, and the drink really took off after it was served at the sweltering 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis. Prohibition, from 1920–1933, and the rising popularity of refrigerators and freezers in the home around the same time sealed iced tea’s place in America’s beverage canon. (This wasn’t the first time temperance influenced the popularity of drinking tea: Buddhist monks in China promoted tea for the same reasons.) Today, according to the Tea Association of the US.A, approximately 75–80% of tea drunk in America is iced, which differentiates American tea consumption from other countries around the world. While most of this is black tea, that wasn’t always the case. Until World War II, Americans drank both green and black tea. Green tea was primarily supplied from China and Japan, and trade with those countries stopped during the war. Americans switched to drinking black teas from India supplied by Britain, and the habit stuck. Despite its popularity, America doesn’t have tea ceremonies akin to those described in the above countries. However, an invitation for a glass of sweet tea on a front porch is arguably a time-honored tradition of Southern hospitality.
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Jennifer Richardson is the author of Americashire: A Field Guide to a Marriage, an Indie Reader Discovery Award winner for travel writing. She and her British husband consider themselves lucky to call both Ventura and a village in the English Cotswolds home. To learn more, visit JenniferRichardson.net.
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TEA Culture
From Trellis to Teacup Good choices to plant in your herbal garden—and why to plant them
Thyme
BY TAMI CHU | ILLUSTRATIONS BY RAMIAH CHU
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f you are as obsessed with tea as my daughter is, you might consider growing some of your own herbs to build up your tea stash. Here is a list of several plants that are both pollinator friendly and medicinal that we are experimenting with in our garden.
Roses aren’t just beautiful fragrant flowers; rose petals and rose hips both make a great tea. Both the petals and the hips have antioxidants and antimicrobial properties and can be beneficial in reducing inflammation. Rose tea can also be helpful for skin health. Rose petals can be added to a black or green tea as a flavoring, or brewed alone with a slightly longer steep time.
Calendula
An essential culinary herb, thyme is good for more than simply seasoning your favorite soup or pasta. It can be brewed from fresh or dried leaves, using boiling water and a 5- to 8-minute steep. Thyme has antibacterial and antispasmodic properties and has been shown to improve internal microbial flora, support digestion and aid in liver detoxification. Calendula is another flowering plant from which tea is made by steeping the dried flowers in boiling water. While the tea is slightly bitter, the benefits make it worth drinking. In studies, calendula has been shown to reduce inflammation and oxidative stress. It also may have antimicrobial, antifungal and other antioxidant properties. Mullein has been used for centuries as a respiratory aid. Tea made from the leaves of this flowering plant has a soft, sweet flavor similar to peppermint. To brew, steep dried leaves in hot water for 10–15 minutes. Strain and enjoy.
Bergamot
Mullein
Bergamot (aka bee balm) is wonderful for pollinators, and all of the above-ground parts of the plant are edible. Earl Grey is made with black tea and bergamot, but the citrusy flower can also be made into a simple herbal tea. The plant is said to have anxiety-reducing properties and provide digestive, respiratory and cardiovascular support. Flowers or leaves can be used to create either hot or cold brew and make a beautiful blooming tea. Lemon balm has been used for centuries as a medicinal tea, historically used to treat infections and illnesses. In the modern day it has been shown to calm the nervous system, improve mood and aid in digestion. Take a cup at night as a sleep aid or combine with your own selection of herbs for a morning brew. Lemon balm
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Passionflower Passionflower is a popular butterflyattracting plant. Used in tea, the dried flowers provide antioxidants, methylated phenols and flavonoids which, according to some studies, could increase gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) in the brain that can calm the nervous system. Passionflower tea is known to have a rich, deep floral flavor with a sweet aftertaste. If you enjoy the fragrance of lavender in the late spring, you may rather appreciate the floral flavor in a tea as well. Dried lavender is quite strong, so it is often blended with a black tea or other herbs like chamomile, calendula and roses. Benefits can include easing anxiety, inviting sleep, boosting the immune system, easing menstrual pain and potentially reducing pain of headaches and migraine. Unlike the chamomile, echinacea tea is made from the dried root of this lovely flower. While this tea can have great anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, it has strong chemical compounds and should be consumed with some caution. People with autoimmune disorders, HIV or who are pregnant or nursing should avoid this tea.
Fennel tea is made by brewing the crushed seeds of the fennel plant. It’s packed full of antioxidants, amino acids and vitamins and has been shown to have numerous health benefits, including aiding digestion, assisting in rebuilding damaged tissue in the stomach and potentially treating respiratory issues such as coughs. It has also been shown to help alleviate menstrual cramps and can be used as an immune booster. One note of caution: If one has allergies to carrots, there may also be a reaction to fennel.
Mint tea is easy and delicious. Simply steep some leaves in hot water for Mint 6–8 minutes. It should come as no surprise that mint has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties and may help ease tension headaches, aid digestion and improve mood.
Did you know that ginger can be grown in Southern California? Ginger is an easy tea additive and has many health benefits, including immune and digestive support. Ginger may also support folks with Type 2 diabetes and help prevent cardiovascular issues. Simply add to your favorite tea, or steep alone for a fresh mildly spicy herbal tea.
Tulsi tea, made from fresh or dried leaves of the holy basil plant steeped in boiling water, is commonly used in Ayurvedic practices as a powerful adaptogen with many uses. According to studies, tulsi contains compounds that include camphene and camphor that can help open airways, and high levels of vitamin K, A and C that are beneficial to brain health and digestion.
Stinging nettle was used in many ancient cultures as food and medicine. It is very high in minerals and vitamins, including A and D. It is best to pick young leaves and use caution to avoid their stinging properties. To make the tea, use about 1 cup of leaves to 2 cups of boiling water and steep. Strain into a cup, making sure none of the nettles get through.
Rosemary
Echinacea
Lavender 20
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If you like rosemary in your food, it might be time to try it as a fresh, pine-flavored tea. Like many other herbs, rosemary has been used medicinally for centuries to aid digestion, increase blood circulation, improve immune health and boost cardiovascular health.
Stinging nettle Edible San Fernando Valley
A bitter and unpleasant-smelling member of the mint family, motherwort is a prickly bush with purple or pink furry flowers. To make the tea, steep the dried flowering tops in a covered container for 20 minutes. Take only 1–3 ounces per day as a wellness practice. Well-known as a calming and soothing tea, dried chamomile flowers have been used medicinally since ancient times. Its benefits are extensive due to its anti-inflammatory, anticoagulant and antibacterial properties. Pair your tea with a little honey for a nice floral nightcap.
Chamomile
If you are a DIYer, meadowsweet is a plant that belongs in your garden. Historically used as a diuretic, the light and earthy tea is made from the clustering white flowers. The flowers have also been used to flavor mead, so that might be worth adding to the list! A few more herbs worth consideration: stevia, hibiscus, lemon verbena, dandelion
Motherwort
Many of the herbs mentioned here are from plants that can be allergens in some people. If you have specific ragweed or pollen allergies, use herbal teas with some caution.
Holy basil
Tips for growing teas Most herbs have some sort of healing properties so you can create a garden that is perfectly suited to your own sensibilities. Spend a little time researching your favorite herbs before planting. When harvesting your herbs, try to cut them in the morning when they are at peak freshness and flavor. Throughout the growing season, harvest and dry your herbs and store them in sealed jars to brew fresh teas all year long. For brewing, use boiling water and watch the steeping times. Oversteeping can lead to more bitterness with herbs. (See “Brewing the Perfect Cup” on page XX)
Meadowsweet
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Don’t have space? No problem! Try growing vertically indoors or out. Herbs do very well in pots, too, so a small area can be perfect for your tea garden.
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TEA Culture
Sip on These WORDS BY ADRIEL CHU | PHOTO BY NAOMI HENRY
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here are many places in the greater San Fernando Valley where you can buy teas, no argument there. Here are a few local, artisan standouts we’re sipping now.
California Tea House California Tea House’s story started with Ani Bailey’s wedding. The day she and Will tied the knot, they gave guests blooming teas as wedding favors. As the couple’s love had bloomed, so, too, would the teas, as well as the idea for a business venture. In 2009, Ani Bailey was selling her teas at local farmers’ markets. This helped the business in two ways: getting the word out and supporting them as the California Tea House website was developed. Soon, Bailey started making custom in-house tea blends. As the tea company’s popularity grew, more and more customers asked for tea recommendations. In response, the couple formulated a short and fun online quizlet that asks your preferences and recommends a tea blend based on your answers. The selections don’t stop at the quiz results, far from it. Their website offers seven organic varieties of tea: Black, white, green—you name it, they’ve probably got it. Each variety has its own subset of teas, blends like White Monkey Paw and White Peony. The Darjeeling tea is organic and fair-trade. One of their herbal tea offerings is the Fruity Dream, a beautiful blend filled with dried fruits and florals. It’s vitamin-rich, caffeine-free and sweet, with a colorful flavor burst that’s sure to make you smile. The Tarzana-based company’s teas are available online at CaliforniaTeaHouse.com.
Kitefin Teas & Sundries In October 2022, Alisha Kloc started selling her teas in local farmers’ markets under the Kitefin Tea & Sundries company name. The name refers to kitefin sharks, which are “cute and whimsical,” according to the tea company’s website. Kloc has blended teas for years, and each of her “fun, funky and functional” loose-leaf blends (50 and counting) shows this expertise. Kloc is usually working on two to three blends at any given time, she says. If you’re looking for a “novel-tea,” Butterfly Magic loose-leaf tea is a great choice. It’s a lovely drink that changes color when you add lemon juice. To get you through winter, check out her chai tea, which is chock-full of warming spices. She also sells tea infusers with charms to steep your tea. Each flavor is available in caffeinated and non-caffeinated varieties in her online store, and you can taste Kitefin Tea & Sundries’ offerings by visiting the markets where she sells. The teas are available online at KitefinTeas.com and at the Woodland Hills Farmers’ Market, along with others in the Los Angeles area. She’s also pursuing “several other promising opportunities for other places,” she says. 22
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Talking Tea Terminology
SILK & JADE SILK & JADE first opened its doors as a boutique in Los Angeles in 2016, later expanding its services to include a tea room that allows guests to experience traditional tea ceremonies and more. The owners, couple Joe Chou and Nina Burke, are extremely passionate about their work, ensuring that their teas are the highest quality. They single-source each of their five oolong teas from different regions of Taiwan, which offer different flavor profiles based on minute variations like climate and soil composition, and oxidation levels. These leaves are selected by Joe’s mother Lily–a tea master who lives in Taiwan–and are approved by Nina. Joe Chou himself is also a tea master, well-versed in the teas and what makes their flavors unique. One such tea is their Amber Oolong. A rich and flavorful tea with notes of honey, fruit and clove, it can steep hot in minutes or if you prefer a cold brew tea, hours. It gets its unique sweetness from a leafhopper that feasts on the juices of the tea leaf before it’s harvested, releasing enzymes that give it its award-winning flavor. The company’s silky Formosa matcha is also a standout. In addition to teas, they offer a range of teaware and jade pieces. The teas are available online at SilkandJade.com and at the Montrose Harvest Market and Eagle Rock Farmers’ Market. Exciting news: A brickand-mortar location in Eagle Rock is under construction and expected to open this year.
Southern California artist and freelance writer Adriel Chu, 22, got her start illustrating for small online communities. She loves chickens and puns. EdibleSanFernandoValley.com
Tea has a lot of healthful attributes, way more than just tasting good and helping with hydration. The nonprofit Tea Association of the USA provides the inside scoop on tea, offering these definitions on its website. Antioxidant: It helps prevent or delay oxidative damage caused by reactive oxygen and/or reactive nitrogen species. Oxidative damage to the body, cells and tissues may contribute to diseases like cancer and heart disease. Phytochemicals: Naturally occurring plant compounds. Many phytochemicals are thought to play a role in decreasing the risk of cancer and heart disease and may boost the immune system. Some phytochemicals—such as tea flavonoids—are also antioxidants. Flavonoids: A class of polyphenolic phytochemicals that are effective antioxidants. Tea flavonoids and related bio-active compounds may play important roles in various areas of health and may operate through several different mechanisms still being explored. Flavonols: A group of flavonoids found in tea and many fruits and vegetables that are antioxidants and may contribute to some of the potential health benefits in these plant foods. These include rutin, quercetin and kaempferol. Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG): The principal catechin in green and black teas. EGCG is a strong antioxidant and reduces the formation of lung, esophageal and skin tumors in animal models of human cancer. Theanine: An amino acid that has psychoactive properties. It may reduce mental and physical stress, and may produce feelings of relaxation by increasing levels of gammaaminobutyric acid (GABA), serotonin, dopamine and alpha-wave activity. Source: Tea Association of the USA (Tea Facts 2021).
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TEA Culture
Tea to a T
How to brew the perfect cup of tea BY WILL AND ANI BAILEY
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here’s a certain satisfaction in forgoing a teabag and brewing loose-leaf tea. The process is zen-like and the result is to be savored. If you take some time to get to know the particular type of tea and its optimal brewing techniques, you will get a superior cup every time. Follow these general guidelines to maximize the flavor of your tea, whether it’s white, green, oolong, black or herbal. And remember: You are free to customize the process to satisfy your needs and taste preferences. Refer to the chart below for the ideal brewing process of each tea.
Allow enough time to brew tea correctly. Brewing and drinking tea has always been a social event, not something to be done in a rush. Ideally, allow 30 minutes to brew your tea. The process should be enjoyable, fun and calming.
Choose the right teaware. The teapot and cups you use might influence the flavor and color. In ideal circumstances,
you might want to use different teapots for different teas. If you want to use one teapot for all types, opt for a smaller one. Keep in mind that a 10-ounce teapot will not give you exactly 10 ounces of tea, but it will be enough for two people. The ideal teapot holds 6.8 ounces (200 ml).
Get a digital scale and thermometer. Both water temperature and the amount of leaves are crucial for a perfect cup. We recommend that you use a small digital scale for the first few months of brewing, as it will help you understand the amounts better. A kitchen thermometer comes in handy for checking that the water isn’t too hot or too cold. With time and practice, you will know how to determine them both.
because it’s too flat and flavorless for a decent cup of tea.
Boil the water and preheat the teaware. Always use freshly boiled water. Preheat the teapot by pouring hot water in and out of it before adding the loose-leaf tea. This step will make your teapot more brewing-friendly, intensify the scent of the leaves and provide an optimal starting temperature for brewing.
Have all utensils ready. Gather everything you need before boiling the water because you don’t want to be searching for a tea strainer when the loose-leaf tea is already steeping. To prepare, we recommend you have nearby a strainer for loose-leaf tea, tea tray, tea scoop, teapot and teacups.
Choose the right water.
Use enough leaves.
Bottled spring water is usually best for brewing tea. Tap water might be satisfactory for some teas, but avoid it when brewing gentle and delicate green or white teas. We also suggest that you avoid using distilled water
Using too few tea leaves will produce a weak, uninteresting infusion; adding too many could make the result bitter. If you are unsure, opt for fewer leaves. If brewing goes wrong, at least you won’t be wasting too much tea.
East vs. West The Eastern style of tea brewing (Gong Fu) combines more tea leaves with a shorter steeping time. With this style, the flavor is more pronounced and you can brew additional tea using the same leaves.
Tea Type
Tea Leaves Per 6.8-ounce cup: Western
Tea Leaves Per 6.8-ounce cup: Eastern
Water Temperature
Steeping Time: Western
Steeping Time: Eastern
White Tea
3–5 grams
3–7 grams
194°F
3–5 minutes
2–4 minutes
Green Tea
3–5 grams
3–7 grams
176°F
12 minutes
1-1½ minutes
Oolong Tea
3–5 grams
3–7 grams
176°F–194°F
3–5 minutes
few seconds
Black Tea
3–5 grams
3–7 grams
203°F
3–5 minutes
30–60 seconds
Herbal
3–5 grams
3–7 grams
212°F
4–5 minutes
4–5 minutes
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Brewing and drinking tea has always been a social event, not something to be done in a rush. Ideally, allow 30 minutes to brew your tea. The process should be enjoyable, fun and calming. Make sure the temperature is correct. No caffeinated tea should be brewed with boiling water (212°F). Lower temperatures will extract more sweetness; higher temperatures more astringency and bitterness. The reason lies in caffeine, catechins and tannins, which all require hot water for the best extraction. It’s better to brew a weaker cup first and then adjust the temperature if needed. For blends with orange and lemon peel, use slightly cooler water.
Check the time.
Best teas for practicing.
Avoid over-brewing your tea. It’s better to use a few short infusions than one long one.
Some teas are more forgiving of brewing mistakes. Semi-ball-shaped oolong teas like Buddha Hand or Iron Goddess of Mercy are easy and fun to brew and could be a good starting point for understanding tea-brewing better. Genmaicha and Sencha green teas offer great results with little time investment. Yunnan Golden Buds and Golden Monkey Paw black teas aren’t bitter even if they’re overbrewed. For the most forgiving and easy-tobrew herbal tea, choose rooibos; it will stay tasty even if you steep it 20 minutes.
Wash your utensils. Use clean and dry utensils. Clean the teapot right after brewing with water only and avoid using detergents as much as possible. If you are using only one teapot for all tea types, make sure there is no residue from a previous brewing. Flavored tea leaves might even leave a faint scent after washing, so pay extra attention when brewing delicate teas in the same teapot.
Will and Ani Bailey are the founders of California Tea House, a family-owned online tea store based in Tarzana. Started in 2009, the company custom blends its teas using local ingredients as much as possible. To learn more, visit CaliforniaTeaHouse.com. EdibleSanFernandoValley.com
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EDIBLE Endeavor
JUST ADD SAUCE Lots of pasta-bilities for artisan pasta in Pasadena
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WORDS BY VICTORIA THOMAS | PHOTOS BY ANDREW THOMAS
arbs get a bad rap these days because they’re often just bland vehicles for protein, fat and flavor. But Leah Ferrazzani, founder and owner of Pasadena’s Semolina Artisanal Pasta, has a better idea. “Most people eat [industrially made] pasta as a sauce delivery system,” she says. “But I take a lot of pride in the fact that our pasta tastes like something all by itself.” The difference lies in her choice of using certified organic semolina milled from durum wheat, and it’s the key to anything deserving of the descriptor al dente. Most of Ferrazzani’s semolina is grown by farmers in North Dakota and Montana, then processed in St. Louis by Italgrani USA, North America’s largest durum and semolina miller. There are only three or four mills left in the country that mill certified organic true semolina, she tells me. Ferrazzani is originally from Long Island, NY, and comes by her hospitable and nurturing vibe—the quintessence of pasta—naturally. “I come from a family of teachers and caregivers, and I think the way that expressed itself in me from a really young age was through food. … I took cake decorating classes in middle school, and I made all of my friends’ birthday cakes. I was always inviting people home to eat and, once I could, cooking for them all through college and grad school.” Her family moved to Southern California when she was 9½ years old. She went to college in Northern California and returned again in her late 20s. An avid home cook, she’s passionate about seasonality and eating locally. Ferrazzani attributes this mindset to her college years in Sonoma County. She worked in restaurants—managing Pizzeria Mozza when it first opened—and as a food and wine writer. While on maternity leave, she became frustrated at not being able to find locally made dried pasta. “So one day I came downstairs and looked at my husband and told him that I wanted to start a dried pasta company. He laughed and asked if I knew how to make dried pasta. I told him ‘No,’ and he said, ‘You should do that.’ So I did.’” She has now been in business for nine years and at her Lincoln Avenue location for five. “I taught myself how to make and dry pasta—piecing together information from scholarly articles, reaching out to cereal scientists and through lots of trial and error,” she says. “I traveled to Italy [to learn], and recorded data in the pastaficio [pasta factory] where I worked,” she says, explaining that she did so because the staff wasn’t able to tell her what was happening inside the dryer. “And then I built my business starting with a homemade pasta dryer I built in my laundry room,” says Ferrazzani. For this DIY pasta dryer, she tiled the walls, ceiling and floor. A space heater was part of the system and box fans circulated the air. “I hooked up an egg incubator hygrostat to a Vick’s vaporizer and a CPU fan mounted in the window. The vaporizer came on if the humidity got too low, and the fan came on if the humidity got too high.” With the small-batch pasta, the dough is adjusted by hand throughout the day due to changes in the environment and the semolina. “Our slow production methodology focuses on flavor and texture. Industrial pasta is dried quickly at high temperatures, which destroys the volatile organic compounds that give the pasta its aroma and flavor. We dry slowly and at low temperatures,” she says. The super-refined nature of modern all-purpose flour is
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“Our slow production methodology focuses on flavor and texture. Industrial pasta is dried quickly at high temperatures, which destroys the volatile organic compounds that give the pasta its aroma and flavor. We dry slowly and at low temperatures.” —Leah Ferrazzani
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Leah Ferrazzani, owner and pasta maker at Semolina Artisanal Pasta, uses an extruder fitted with bronze dies that keep the surface of the pasta a bit more rough and rustic and better suited to hold on to sauces.
the result of an effort to end world hunger. American agricultural researcher Norman Borlaug, dubbed the “Father of the Green Revolution,” won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1970 for his genetic manipulation of wheat and other food crops for disease resistance and greater productivity. Ferrazzani optimizes the rustic nature of semolina by using an extruder fitted with bronze dies; these contribute to the rough surface texture of the pasta, which holds the sauce better. Four days a week, the extruder yields a selection of fresh and dried pastas that are the mainstay of her storefront. Some of the dried pasta offerings include rigatoni, conchiglie (shells), conchiglie pastina (little shells), ditalini, strozzapreti and reginetti. The fresh pasta selection rotates, but there are some perennials like spaghetti and linguine, among others. Rigatoni, strozzapreti and fusilli are among her best-sellers, finding their way to Los Angeles–area restaurants including HiPPO, Yang’s Kitchen, Little Beast, Wife and the Somm, Elf Cafe, The Cloverfield, Planta, the Fig Tree and Wax Paper, among others. At her store, she keeps a curated selection of items to complete a meal—like heirloom beans, polline di finocchio (fennel pollen) and California olive oils)—and house-made sauces including salsa di noci (walnuts, red wine vinegar), salsa verde (arugula, anchovies, capers) and pesto Genovese (basil, pecorino Toscano, pine nuts). 28
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If you’re hungry, get a savory made-to-order sandwich with cured meats or one of the vegetarian options. Also available are classic Italian ices, including the flavor “Blue” (raspberry-blueberry), just as it’s called in New York’s boroughs. Bada-bing! Ferrazzani is considering expanding her line in 2024 to include egg-based pastas, which would require purchasing different equipment, and she decided to stop selling wholesale so she could “focus on the direct relationship between semolina and the people we feed.” The pasta will no longer be found at retail stores, but it’s available at the shop and online. “I was looking to right-size the business for my values,” she says. “I didn’t want to be a national brand, which really was the next step, because making 1.5 million pounds of pasta a year isn’t an artisanal business, and that was the trajectory.” The shop may have evolved a great deal over the last five years, but what hasn’t changed is the store’s warm and inviting personality. “At its core, it’s still a place where my life as a home cook, my love for Italian food and stories, and my desire to connect with people over cooking all come together.” Semolina Artisanal Pasta 1976–1978 Lincoln Ave. Pasadena SemolinaPasta.com Edible San Fernando Valley
Pasta e Fagioli in Parm Broth By Leah Ferrazzani, Semolina Artisanal Pasta | Photo by Viktor Budnik My grandmother grew up in the Depression, and the idea of wasting anything—especially an expensive ingredient like Parmigiano-Reggiano— would have made her head explode. This soup uses the rinds I’ve accumulated and frozen until I’m ready to make it. It uses small pasta shapes like ditalini or conchiglie pastina that will float on your spoon. Plan ahead since the dried cannellini or cranberry beans need to soak for 8 hours before adding to the soup. Serves 4
1 cup dried cannellini or cranberry beans 1 small onion, peeled and halved 3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 4–6 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rinds 2 sprigs fresh thyme 5 cups water, for soup 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste Extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 cups ditalini or conchiglie pastina Semolina Artisanal Pasta (or other artisan brand) Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving Soak beans in water for 8 hours or overnight; drain. Put onion, garlic, cheese rinds and thyme in a piece of cheesecloth and tie the top to create a pouch. Add it to a large pot with the 5 cups of water, beans, salt, pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. Cook over mediumlow heat until the beans are tender, 1–2 hours; test them, as some beans may take longer to cook. (If you’ve forgotten to soak the beans, you can cook them in a pressure cooker with all ingredients for 1 hour.) Remove the cheesecloth pouch and taste the broth; adjust the seasoning as needed. The soup should taste saltier than you want the final dish to be because you are seasoning the pasta as it cooks in the broth. Bring soup to a simmer and add pasta and cook until al dente, about 7 minutes. (Taste your pasta to ensure it’s al dente because cook times for true artisan pasta vary batch to batch.) Ladle into bowls and drizzle with plenty of olive oil and sprinkle with ParmigianoReggiano cheese and additional pepper.
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Strozzapreti with Honeynut Squash, Radicchio and Taleggio Recipe and photo by Leah Ferrazzani, Semolina Artisanal Pasta This satisfying winter dish hits every pleasure point: lush colors of deep orange-golds and purple-reds, mild and fruity cheese and the hearty, elongated form of strozzapreti. It can be served warm or at room temperature as a pasta salad. Ferrazzani says that this recipe was written especially for her dried strozzapreti, but it could be prepared with a shorter pasta like her fresh cavatelli. If using fresh pasta, start it after you’ve cooked the garlic because the cooking time will be shorter. Serves about 6
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1½ pounds Honeynut (or butternut) squash ½ cup extra virgin olive oil, divided use Pinch of kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 pound dry strozzapreti Semolina Artisanal Pasta (or other artisan pasta) 1 large clove garlic, sliced 1 head radicchio (about 12 ounces), cored and chopped into bite-size pieces 1 lemon, juice (about ¼–⅓ cup) and zest 4 ounces taleggio cheese, cut into ¾-inch cubes Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Peel the squash and cut it into 1-inch cubes. Add squash cubes to a bowl, drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss to combine. Spread squash evenly over the lined baking sheet and roast in the preheated oven until squash is tender and starting to caramelize, about 30–35 minutes. Set aside. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until just shy of al dente, about 5 minutes. While the pasta is cooking, heat a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, and heat until oil shimmers. Add garlic and a pinch of salt and stir frequently until garlic softens and becomes translucent. Add radicchio
Edible San Fernando Valley
and a pinch of kosher salt and stir. Cook until radicchio has softened and wilted; this step goes quickly. Remove from heat. Drain pasta (reserving 1 cup of pasta water for the sauce) and add to sauté pan with garlic and radicchio, along with reserved pasta water, lemon juice and lemon zest. Turn heat to medium, and stir mixture until pasta is coated with lemon mixture and the starch in the pasta water has emulsified into a glossy sauce, about 30 seconds to a minute. Add cubed squash to warm it back up and stir. Remove from heat and stir in taleggio. Drizzle with remaining ¼ cup olive oil and serve. Note: If you don’t have a traditional sauté pan, use a 12–inch skillet. Instead of adding the pasta to the skillet with the sauce, add the pasta to a large bowl and pour the sauce over it. Add squash and toss to incorporate. Add cheese and toss to combine the ingredients. Drizzle with remaining ¼ cup olive oil and serve.
EdibleSanFernandoValley.com
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EDIBLE Notable
FOUR TO EXPLORE Old Town Newhall Lassos Tasty Finds WORDS BY SARENE WALLACE
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Eat Real on Main’s menu begged us to come back for more. Look for grass-fed and wild-caught proteins and organic veggies and drinks. Looking for more guilty pleasures? Check out the Smokehouse on Main for slow cooked BBQ and Southern Comfort goodies.
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y hiking buddy and I were Hungry. Hungry with a capital H. We’d come off the Towsley Canyon Loop Trail in Newhall, and we needed food. Pronto. But not just sustenance; we wanted a restaurant with a local vibe and an interesting menu of deliciousness. We headed to Main Street in Old Town Newhall and found exactly what we were looking for. Here are just a few of our finds as we strolled along the Walk of Western Stars, which honors film, television and radio personalities. (Picture a Western version of the Hollywood Walk of Fame).
EAT REAL ON MAIN The highest praise I can give a restaurant is that it’s too hard to pick only one menu item—there are so many I want. This was the case with Eat Real on Main. From breakfast through dessert, the bright, airy restaurant’s menu is filled with a large selection of seasonal, healthful options with lots of organic ingredients, veggies and plant proteins. Meat eaters will be happy to know they can get their fix with grass-fed Angus beef, wild-caught salmon, shrimp and chicken. There are also plenty of options for diners who are vegan or gluten-free. If you want a quick sweet snack, stop by the bakery case. The breakfast menu is served through EdibleSanFernandoValley.com
lunchtime, so if you’re craving a Breakfast Bowl with organic scrambled eggs, garlic hash browns, organic kale, tomato, onion, red pepper pesto and organic chicken sausage well after waking up, they got you. Lunch is served all day, so you can order sandwiches, wraps, bowls and salads for dinner, or opt for traditional dinner entrees. An extensive organic drink menu offers up coffees, matcha, wellness lattes, smoothies, juices and “mylkshakes.” The Moon Lavender Latte—Super Real Moon Superfood (a blend of acai, maqui, lacuma, lavender and blue spirulina), lavender, vanilla and milk— is pretty and tasty. If you’re in the mood for an adult beverage, look to the natural wines (made with organic or biodynamic grapes), wine cocktails, beers and ciders. Looking to take something home? Head to the alcove inside the restaurant where you’ll find natural wines, teas, coffees and some home goods. 24450 Main St. #110 EatRealCafe.com
SMOKEHOUSE ON MAIN If you miss the name of the restaurant when you walk in, you’ll know immediately as the mouthwatering smoky aroma greets you at the door. Every day, the red-brick-walled restaurant uses red oak to smoke aged, certified Angus beef brisket and tri-tip, pulled
pork, ribs, Texas hot links and Mary’s organic free-range chicken for its extensive menu. “The brisket and the pulled pork are smoked for 12 to 14 hours overnight,” says owner Cherie McGraham. If you’re not in the mood for meat, pick from among the seafood options and maincourse salads. The Southern Comfort Entrees come with two sides, ranging from grilled asparagus to the five-cheese mac and cheese (available with or without meat). You’ll find what I call “guilty pleasures,” the items that taste amazing but aren’t exactly diet friendly. These include Frito Pie, which buries corn chips under chili, cheddar cheese, sour cream and scallions. Or the PB&J, an eight-ounce brisket patty with applewood-smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato, blackberry jam and peanut butter. If you want to wet your whistle, the restaurant has a wall of liquors to display its full bar and 24 craft beers on tap. Aside from smoked meats, the restaurant is known for its homemade chili and barbecue sauces. The sauces range from a traditional sweet barbecue sauce (California) to the sweet and spicy Hot Peach Habanero barbecue sauce. After you’ve licked your fingers clean, you can purchase the sauces and smoked meats to go. 24255 Main St. SmokehouseOnMain.com WINTER 2024 33
NEWHALL REFINERY Promoted as “Newhall’s first gastropub, est. 2013,” the Newhall Refinery takes its food and drinks seriously. You can watch the chefs cooking in the kitchen behind the polished woodtopped bar that can accommodate a crowd, and marvel at beer tap handles hanging like stalactites from the ceiling. Want more clues? Look at the menu. The popular eight-ounce hamburgers are made with a proprietary blend from Premier Meat Co. in Vernon, which focuses on animals raised humanely on natural, sustainable farms. Other popular items include the Fish N’ Chips—made with beer-battered cod and served with white slaw and charred lemon—and Hanger Steak with Crispy Fries. If you want a nosh with your drinks, check out the starters, like Charcuterie Board and Crispy Brussels. “We have seasonal items and change things like fruits in our salads, depending on the season,” says Christine Muñoz, who’s an operating partner along with Ralph Gonzalez. “We do specials on weekends, mostly, where we can source some local ingredients, depending on the dish and time of year.” Turn the menu over to see libations for the over-21 crowd. There are about 20 beers on tap, which favor Southern California breweries. You’ll find lots of white and red wines; a majority are from California. Cocktails are developed in-house by the bartenders—who compete to outdo each other, I’m told. The Cucumber Jalapeño Cilantro Margarita muddles these three ingredients to mix with Arette Blanco tequila, Cointreau, lime and lemon juice and agave. Sip to taste the lime and Tajin seasoning rimming the glass. The Strawberry Martini uses housemade strawberry-infused vodka and features a rim of green basil sugar crystals. 24258 Main St. NewhallRefinery.com
With a focus on seasonal and natural ingredients, Newhall Refinery gives pub food an upgrade.
OLD TOWN NEWHALL FARMERS MARKET Had we been here early on a Saturday, we would have pulled out our reusable bags and headed to the Old Town Newhall Library parking lot, location of the Old Town Newhall Farmers Market. Started in 2015, it’s a bustling, certified market decorated with a riot of colorful, seasonal produce from small family farms, beans ground-to-order for on-site lattes, freshly made baguettes like you’d find in Paris, coconut-based beverages, and hearty made-to-order meatball subs and to-go lasagna. We also missed out on keto treats, pistachio butter, jams, wild-ferment sourdough, bacon, grass-fed beef, sushi-grade fish, local honey and so much more. When you go to the market, you’ll likely see Market Manager Larry McClements (pictured at right in the white shirt). He’s the charismatic market evangelist whose enthusiasm instantly converts shoppers into ardent fans. As he strolls through the market, he stops to talk with customers and vendors alike, tossing off compliments and cooking tips. He also shops for ingredients to bring home for his meals. At a display of produce, McClements will likely stop and sweep his arm over it, calling attention to it. You cannot fake fresh like this, he’ll say. And you can’t. 24500 Main St. oldtownnewhallfm@gmail.com
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WINTER 2024 35
A GENEROUS Helping
GUIDED BY FOOD EQUITY Two San Fernando Valley Moms on a Mission to Change the Way We Eat WORDS BY LISA RIZNIKOVE
M
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Photo courtesy of Foodocracy
y friend Deep Silver and I first crossed paths through the delightful chaos of playdates with our kids at Children’s Circle Nursery School in the San Fernando Valley. Little did we know that our shared love for food, sustainability and farmers’ markets would blossom into a transformative mission. Our journey began with discussions fueled by our passion, evolving into a commitment to create the kind of world we want our girls to grow up in. We attended events by Slow Food USA, which served as the catalyst for our ambitious endeavor. In 2019, the spark that fueled our mission ignited amid the bustle of food companies presenting at the Fancy Food Show. Our aim to explore culinary collaborations took a turn when we noticed a significant absence of representation from women and people of color, predominantly overshadowed by large industrial food companies. This revelation gave birth to The Foodocracy, a grassroots nonprofit in Sherman Oaks with a mission to champion a more sustainable and independent food system. Our organization also supports the good-food movement, a democracy for our food system that embraces everyone involved, from the growers to the consumers. Our belief in the power of an independent food system extends beyond the realms of culinary innovation. We recognize its pivotal role in environmental, health and social change, challenging the current reliance on a handful of corporations for our entire food chain. The profound economic impact on rural communities underscores the urgent need to fortify independent systems that empower farmers and local producers. Current global-scale food production, characterized by mass-produced ingredients without consideration for nutrient density or environmental impact, further compounds the issue. Edible San Fernando Valley
Astonishingly, nearly 75% of the world’s food
originates from just 12 plants and five animal species, contributing to the alarming disappearance of plant
species. The ripple effects of declining biodiversity extend beyond ecological concerns, echoing the
impact of climate change and air pollution.
Astonishingly, nearly 75% of the world’s food originates from just 12 plants and five animal species, contributing to the alarming disappearance of plant species. The ripple effects of declining biodiversity extend beyond ecological concerns, echoing the impact of climate change and air pollution. The year 2020 presented an unexpected challenge: a pandemic that laid bare the fragility of our supply chain. Responding wholeheartedly, Foodocracy initiated free webinars for struggling farmers and family-owned businesses, offering a platform to navigate the rapidly changing landscape. Our online community became a haven for sharing information and fostering connections, a lifeline in a world grappling with uncertainty. Understanding the need for an alternative marketplace, we established Shop Foodocracy—an online platform designed to preserve the independence of small farmers and artisans. Teaming up with organizations like Slow Food USA, we raised both awareness and funds to sustain the independent food system during these challenging times. Since its inception, Foodocracy has been a lifeline for over 100 small farmers and independent makers in the United States. In 2021, our focus shifted to supporting BIPOC farmers through targeted programs, ensuring they could continue their vital work of educating and nourishing local communities. In 2023, the generosity of donations and proceeds from our online store empowered us to fund a pilot educational program for Indigenous communities, marking a significant step toward inclusivity and equity in the food system. We also launched the Heirloom Bean and Grain Project, which holds a special place in our hearts. It’s about more than just strengthening local food systems, promoting biodiversity or providing EdibleSanFernandoValley.com
sustainable income to family-owned farms; it’s about changing the way we eat from plow to plate. Our Heirloom Bean and Grain Project supports small, independent farms across the United States. The cornerstone of the project? An Heirloom Bean and Grain Subscription Box, delivering the delectable benefits of supporting local farms directly to eager consumers. By sourcing directly from small, family-owned farms and paying more than double what they would get from distributors, we’ve created an economically viable solution for small-scale bean farming. Plus, because beans are a vital part of regenerative agriculture, we’re also nurturing soil health and supporting the well-being of our entire planet. As we navigate the ever-evolving landscape of sustainable food practices, Foodocracy remains steadfast in our dedication to fostering positive change. Our journey from the Fancy Food Show in 2019 to where we are today is a testament to the collective power of individuals committed to reshaping our food systems for a healthier, more equitable future. You can be a part of this change: Support small, independent farms and makers. Together, let’s make independent and sustainable food practices the reigning champions. You can support Foodocracy through ShopFoodocracy.com or TheFoodocracy.org.
Lisa Riznikove is the cofounder of Foodocracy. WINTER 2024 37
FARMERS’ MARKET GUIDE TUESDAY
THURSDAY
1 Glendale Gateway Certified Farmers’ Market
11 South Pasadena Farmers’ Market
Tuesday 10am–2pm 801 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale SupportingArms.org/events.html
Thursday 4–8pm 920 Meridian Ave., South Pasadena SouthPasadenaFarmersMarket.org
2 Hidden Hills Farmers’ Market (Exclusive Community Market) Tuesday 2–6pm @ccfminc
12 Woodland Hills Kaiser Farmers’ Market Thursday 9am–2pm In Kaiser Medical Center 5601 De Soto Ave., Woodland Hills 310-383-3708
3 Sherman Oaks Farmers’ Market
Tuesday 2–6pm 14006 Riverside Dr., Sherman Oaks RawInspiration.org
This list was updated January 2024 but as details do change, please contact the markets for the latest information. If you know of another farmers’ market that is not listed, please let us know at info@ediblesfvalley.com.
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FRIDAY 13 Altadena Neighborhood Farmers Market Friday 4–8pm 578 W. Palm St., Altadena @ccfminc
4 CSUN Farmers’ Market
Tuesday 10am–2pm 18111 Nordhoff, Northridge RawInspiration.org 5 Pasadena Certified Farmers’ Market Tuesday 8am–noon Villa Parke Center, 363 E. Villa St., Pasadena PasadenaFarmersMarket.org
WEDNESDAY 6 Canyon Country Farmers’ Market Wednesday 4–8pm 18410 Sierra Hwy., Santa Clarita CanyonCountryFarmersMarket.com 7 The Oaks Farmers’ Market (Exclusive Community Market) Wednesday 2–7pm (closed Oct. 28–Mar) 25464 Prado De Las Flores, Calabasas @ccfminc
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14 Monrovia Street Fair & Farmers’ Market Friday 5–9pm 700 S. Myrtle Ave., Monrovia MonroviaStreetFairMarket.com
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15 Olive View Medical Center Certified Farmers’ Market Friday 9am–2pm 14445 Olive View Dr., Sylmar SupportingArms.org/events.html
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16 Reseda Farmers’ Market
Friday 4–8pm 8500 Reseda Blvd., Reseda @ccfminc 17 Topanga Farmers’ Market Fridays 9am–1pm 1440 N. Topanga Canyon Blvd., Topanga TopangaFarmersMarket.com
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8 Northridge Farmers’ Market and Family Festival COMING MARCH 1 Wednesday 5–9pm (closed Oct. 28–Mar) Northridge Fashion Center Mall 9301 Tampa Ave., Northridge Northridge-Farmers-Market-and-Family-Festival.business.site
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RE-OPENING IN MARCH
9 Panorama City Kaiser Farmers’ Market Wednesday 9am–1:30pm Kaiser Medical Center, 13652 Cantara St., Panorama City 310-383-3708
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10 Warner Center Farmers’ Market
Wednesday 10am–2pm 5820 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills
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Illustrations by Ramiah Chu
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FOR SAN FERNANDO VALLEY, SANTA CLARITA AND PASADENA SATURDAY
SUNDAY
18 Agoura Hills Farmers’ Market
29 Atwater Village Farmers’ Market
23 La Cañada Flintridge
at Whizin Market Square Saturday 10am–3pm 28914 Roadside Dr., Agoura Hills RawInspiration.org
Farmers’ Market Saturday 9am–1pm 1346 Foothill Blvd., La Cañada Flintridge RawInspiration.org
19 Burbank Farmers’ Market
24 NoHo Farmers’ Market
Saturday 9am–2pm 3528 Larga Ave., Atwater Village SeeLA.org/markets-atwater-village
34 Studio City Farmers’ Market Sunday 8am–1pm Ventura Pl., Studio City StudioCityFarmersMarket.com
30 Glendale Artsakh Farmers’ Market Glendale Central Library Park Sunday 10am–3pm 222 E. Harvard St., Glendale @glendaleartsakhfarmersmarket
35 Toluca Lake Farmers’ Market Sunday 9:30am–2:30pm Wells Fargo Lot 10225 Riverside Dr., North Hollywood TolucaLakeFarmersMarket.org 36 Westlake Village Farmers’ Market Sunday 10am–2pm 2797 Agoura Rd., Westlake Village Rawinspiration.org
Saturday 8am–noon 101 N. Glenoaks Blvd., Burbank BurbankFarmersMarket.org
Saturday 9:30am–2:30pm 5000 Colfax, North Hollywood FarmersMarketNorthHollywood.com
20 El Nido Farmers Market Saturday 1am–2pm Pacoima Family Source Center 11243 Glenoaks Blvd., Pacoima mkaplan@elnidofamilycenters.org
25 Old Town Calabasas
Farmers’ Market Saturday 8am–1pm 23504 Calabasas Rd., Calabasas CCFM.com
31 Encino Farmers’ Market Sunday 8am–1pm 17400 Victory Blvd., Van Nuys Sepulveda Basin OneGeneration.org/farmers-market
26 Old Town Newhall Farmers’ Market Saturday 8:30am–1pm 24500 Main St., Santa Clarita NewhallFarmersMarket.com
32 Montrose Farmers’ Market Sunday 8am–1pm 2300-2314 Honolulu Ave., Glendale ShopMontrose.com/harvest-market-andmarketplace
27 Pasadena Victory Park
33 Santa Clarita Certified Farmers’ Market Sunday 8am–noon College of the Canyons Parking Lot 5 Valencia Blvd. & Rockwell Canyon Rd. Santa Clarita Vccfm.org
21 Heart of The Canyons Farmers’ Market Saturday 8am–noon (STARTING MARCH 6: WEDNESDAYS 4–8pm)
9666 Foothill Blvd., Sunland @hotcfarmersmarket 22 Main Street Canoga Park
Farmers’ Market Saturday 9am–1:30pm 7248 Owensmouth Ave., Canoga Park CoastalPacificMarkets.com
Farmers’ Market Saturday 8am–12:30pm 2925 E. Sierra Madre Blvd., Pasadena PasadenaFarmersMarket.org 28 Woodland Hills Farmers’ Market
Saturday 8am–1pm 5650 Shoup Ave., Woodland Hills 818-300-3023
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CSAs, Farm Stands & Special Markets 37 Forneris Farms
15200 Rinaldi St., Mission Hills FornerisFarms.com CLOSED JAN. AND FEB.
38 Sanchez Produce 16230 Sierra Hwy., Santa Clarita @Sanchezproduce Cash only 39 Tapia Bros. Farm Stand 5251 Havenhurst Ave., Encino @tapiabrosfarm
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South Central Farmers CSA Various pickup and delivery options SCFCoop.SouthCentralFarmers.com
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EDIBLE INK by Bambi Edlund
The process for making chai at home is surprisingly simple: To make 1 cup, combine 3/4 cup water and your spices (see suggested amounts, then adjust to taste) in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for a few minutes until fragrant. Add 3/4 cup milk and 2 teaspoons tea leaves (or 2 tea bags) and simmer for another minute, then remove from heat. Steep for 2 minutes, then pour through a sieve into your cup. Add honey or sugar to taste. In India, chai is prepared by a tea vendor, called a chai wallah. The drink is served in small glasses. The word masala means a mixture of spices, and the word chai means tea.
Sugar is often used to sweeten chai, but honey can provide more depth of flavor.
Chai is made with milk in India, but any type of milk will work.
Loose black tea is best, but tea bags can be used in a pinch. Assam or Ceylon tea is the most common. An Indian beverage made from black tea, milk and spices, chai is a fantastic way to get cozy on a chilly day. There are as many chai recipes as there are curry recipes—the spices are mixed according to taste, and can vary from day to day. Masala chai can be made with any combination of spices, but green cardamom pods and fresh ginger provide the base notes. 40
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Edible San Fernando Valley
EdibleSanFernandoValley.com
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