ยกviva la comida! the hispanic issue
letter from the editors /
staff & contributing writers
welcome! Dear Readers, Welcome to Edible’s first issue of the year! This winter, we decided to focus our attention on one of our favorite cuisines: Hispanic food. Besides the tacos and burritos that we all know and love, the cuisine is incredibly diverse, and each country has its own distinct twist and flavor to offer. In this issue we explore both the origins of these foods, such as the history of chocolate, and their place in our own world, with a review of one of the best Hispanic restaurants in the city. We know there are a lot more of you out there who love to cook, and even more of you who love to eat, so if you’re interested in writing, please let us know! We hope you enjoy this issue, and keep your eyes out for the next one in the spring. Thank you!
Your editors, Rachel Buissereth, Ben Kremnitzer, Noah Margulis, and Molly Wharton staff editors-in-chief: Rachel Buissereth Ben Kremnitzer Noah Margulis Molly Wharton layout: Nailah Hines faculty advisors: Adam Casdin Angelina Goater
contributing writers Abigail Greenbaum Anushka Gupta Catherine Engelmann Jennifer Heon Jillian Lowey Melanie Totenberg Mia Farinelli Sara Hirade Sophie Ditzengoff all photos are from flickr under the creative commons lisence.
edible
4 7 8 10
guacamole! food crawl the secret behind spices
the history of chocolate hot chocolate! food crawl
12
latin flavor!
15
rosa mexicano
16
espa単ol en america
17 18
bananas going extinct? vegetarian tapas
table of contents 3
edible’s food crawl 2011-2012
guacamole!
edible staffers Abigail Greenbaum (‘13) and Savannah Smith (‘13) try the best guacamole nyc has to offer.
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uacamole is certainly an acquired taste – it is an unusual texture, not quite comparable to anything else, and the avocado base is not something everyone enjoys. However, I’ve found that, among people who do like guacamole, it’s often one of their favorite foods. My friend Savannah and I decided, after noticing guacamole on the menu of nearly all our favorite restaurants, that it might be a fun endeavor to sample it from each place and compare the results. Of course, there are a lot of things to judge in a guacamole, as it can be made in a variety of different ways. The texture varies, anywhere from extremely smooth, like a store bought spread, to full of avocado chunks, which often feels a bit more fresh. Guacamoles can also have different supplementary ingredients, such as onions and lemon juice. We found as we were making our comparisons that I disliked guacamole made with too much cilantro, and Savannah disliked one made with too much tomato. Often, if the chips were too salty, that would ruin the taste. A fun challenge of this experiment was to find a guacamole that we both liked. We decided, after some debate, to sample both Mexican restaurants as well as more generic ones. Guacamole has become so popular that it is almost always a staple appetizer now.
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gu a c amole! fo o d c r aw l 2 0 1 1 -2 0 1 2
midtown:
upper west:
café lalo
dos caminos We thought the guacamole was very good, though perhaps not our favorite thing they had on the menu. The texture was not as creamy as some of the others. However, it tasted fresh, and the seasoning was just tangy enough to set it apart from other guacamole. Definitely recommended.
There was no reason to expect guacamole from Café Lalo, which is primarily known for its desserts, but we saw it on the menu and thought it would be fun to try. The chips were a bit salty, and the avocado chunks were almost too large, but the guacamole was far from bad.
373 Park Avenue South (between 26th and 27th Street) New York, NY 10016-8805 Price range: $$$
201 W 83rd St # 1 (between Broadway and Amsterdam) New York, NY Price range: $$
upper east:
lincoln center:
rosa mexicano
MXco
This one, the one we were eating as we came up with the idea, remains our favorite. It is the only guacamole to have the perfect blend of avocado and other spices, and the added attraction of the waiters preparing it in front of you is a nice touch. Additionally, the texture is just right; their guacamole consists of large, fresh chunks of avocado but remains not chunky.
We’ve eaten guacamole from MXco simply because it is a convenient location for us, and though the food is definitely good, it’s nothing special or outstanding. Their guacamole, of all of these, is the most standard. There is a lot of cilantro and tomatoes, and it is finely pureed, but it is not so different from what you might find at a supermarket.
1491 2nd Ave (between 77th & 78th Street) New York 10075 Price range: $$$
61 Columbus Ave at 62nd Street New York 10023 Price range: $$$ 5
gu a c amol e! fo o d c r aw l 2 0 1 1 - 2 0 1 2
final thoughts:
There are many, many other restaurants in New York we didn’t get to try, though from these we concluded that Rosa Mexicano was the best. The Mexican restaurants did have better guacamole overall, which is as it should be. Still, I am very glad that restaurants have adopted it onto their menus, because it is a fun dish to share with friends and always enjoyable.
try it at home :
got a taste for some guac? try out these recipes courtesy of Guac Off! mango guacamole makes about 2 1/2 cups
ingredients: 2 large avocados, diced (about 2 cups) 1 large mango, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch cubes (about ½ cup) Juice of 2 limes (about ¼ cup) ½ cup chopped red bell pepper 2 teaspoons finely chopped cilantro ½ teaspoon ground cumin Salt Pepper directions: In a medium bowl, combine the avocados, mango, and lime juice with a large fork. Mash together to form a chunky mixture. Stir in the bell pepper, cilantro, and cumin. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately with tortilla chips.
southwestern guacamole makes about 2 1/2 cups
ingredients: 2 large avocados, diced (about 2 cups) Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons canned corn, drained (or freshly cooked) 2 tablespoons canned black beans, drained 2 tablespoons chopped black olives 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro 1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion 1 clove garlic, minced Salt Pepper directions: In a medium bowl, combine the avocados and lime juice with a large fork. Mash together to form a chunky mixture. Fold in the corn, black beans, olives, cilantro, red onion, and garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper and fold again lightly to form a vibrant guacamole. Serve immediately with tortilla chips.
simple guacamole makes about 2 cups
ingredients: 2 large avocados, diced (about 2 cups) Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons) Salt
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directions: In a medium bowl, combine the avocados and lime juice with a large fork. Mash together to form a chunky mixture. Season to taste with salt. Serve immediately with tortilla chips.
c u ltu re
the secret behind spices add some spice to your life! Sara Hirade (‘15)
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hat makes Hispanic food so delicious? One of the secrets is its use of spices. This food is characterized by deep, often intense flavors and strong visual appeal. Three common spices and flavorings—pepper, cumin, and annatto—are used throughout the regions.
Pepper is a very common spice in Latin American cuisine. It is
native to the Americas and was most likely first grown in Mexico. The plant is in the genus Capsicum in which there are many types of pepper. For instance, the Tabasco pepper is a member of the Capsicum frutescens and the chili pepper is in Capsicum annuum. There are many different shapes, sizes, and colors of the chili pepper. The size and origin of the pepper affect its spiciness. Most small peppers are spicy, while large peppers are typically milder. The color of the pepper indicates the maturity and age. The intensity of peppers is measured on the Scoville scale, which starts at zero Scoville Heat Units (SHU) with the mildest pepper, the sweet bell pepper, and finishes with the Naga Viper pepper at 1,382,118 SHU. To give a sense of scale, jalapeño peppers measure between 2,500 and 8,000 SHU. Although annatto, also known as achiote and achiotl, is not technically a spice, it is a popular flavoring. The plant is native to the Americas and can grow up to five meters high. Annatto oil is a natural food coloring that can give traditional Spanish rice its yellow color and distinctive flavor. The color comes from the outside layer of the seed from the annatto tree, which is also known as Bixa Orellana L. The main pigment in the annatto is carotenoid, which surrounds the seed. Each seed is covered in an orange-red substance that is used to make the food coloring. Heating the seeds in cooking oil and then dividing the oil from the seeds makes the annatto oil that is used in cooking. In many Latin American recipes, annatto oil is used to color soups, rice, and tortillas. Another popular spice in Hispanic food is cumin. Cumin is native to the Mediterranean and Egypt and was brought to the New World by the Spanish colonists. The spice has a warm, curry flavor and is most common in Mexican dishes, especially chili. Cumin is the dried seed of the cumin plant, Cuminum cynimum, which is a member of the parsley family. The average cumin plant grows to be about 25 cm with thin blue-green leaves and pink or white flowers. The seeds are ready to be cut and dried when they turn brown. The cumin seeds can be sold either dried or ground up into a greenbrown powder. They also have a strong aroma that can be altered when the seeds are cooked.
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c u lture
the history of chocolate: the origins of the classic treat Mia Farinelli (‘13)
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n modern society, chocolate has become a comfort food for people of all ages. We dip everything in melted chocolate, unwrap chocolate bars when we need a quick fix, profess our love with a box of chocolates on Valentine’s day, and curl up with a steaming cup of hot cocoa on winter nights. The sweet treat has been in abundance for so long that most people don’t wonder where or when the chocolate craze started. In fact, chocolate has been around for at least four thousand years. To explore the beginnings of one of America’s favorite treats, we go down south to the home of the Mayans, circa 1400 B.C.
sidered symbols of life and fertility; many images of cocoa pods appear in Mayan temples and palaces. T h e Aztecs also consumed a bitter drink, which they called choco- a cacao pod, a latl. They besign of fertility in lieved their god, Quet- mayan culture zalcoatl, descended from heaven carrying a cacao tree stolen from paradise. From then on, chocolate was associated with another deity, Xochiquetzal, the goddess of fertility; chocolatl was often used as a sacred offering. It was thought that chocolatl had several beneficial properties. It was energizing and granting wisdom and power to those who drank it. In fact, chocolatl was held to be so healthful that Montezuma drank up to fifty cups of it per day, in golden goblets that were thrown away after one use. Cacao beans became so valuable that they were used as currency, and any territory that the Aztecs had conquered was required to submit tribute in cacao beans.
early beginnings:
Archaeologists have found evidence at a site in Puerto Escondido, Honduras that suggests that cacao cultivation began between 1100 and 1400 B.C. Evidence has further illustrated chocolate’s main form at the time to be a frothy, bitter beverage, made by fermenting, roasting, and grounding cacao beans into a paste that was mixed with water, chili peppers, and cornmeal. The remnants of the cacao bean, a white pulp, was used as a source of sugar for an alcoholic drink. The use of cacao was so prevalent that Mayans even grew cacao trees in their backyards, using chocolate for ceremonial purposes as well as for more commonplace events. Cocoa pods were given much esteem in Mayan culture, and were con-
bitter water:
cacao beans, which would eventually be ground into a paste 8
The word chocolate is derived from the Nahuatl word “xocolātl,” meaning “bitter water.” This bitter water actually constitutes 90% of chocolate’s history; chocolate did not take its contemporary, solid form until well after it arrived in Europe, during the Industrial Revolution. Europe’s first interaction with this treasured drink occurred through the exploration by Christopher Columbus in 1502, Columbus saw the value of cacao beans but had no idea that the dark brown bean had the potential to take the world by
c u ltu re storm.
chocolate reaches europe:
It was only a few years later, when Hernando Cortez conquered part of Mexico, that the value of cacao beans was taken advantage of. He established a cacao plantation in the name of Spain and realized that he had birthed what would become an extremely profitable business. Finally, in 1528, chocolate was brought back to Spain, and it became an instant hit. In order to make it sweeter, Spaniards added sugar, vanilla, and spices, like nutmeg, cloves, allspice, and cinnamon. The result captured the country’s heart, and Spain managed to keep chocolate a secret from the rest of the world for almost a hundred years. While the chocolate we know today was brought about by European innovations, it’s interesting to note that this sweet treat actually was not so sweet for most of its history. The Mayans and the Aztecs were the founders of the original chocolate; hints of its ancient history are apparent in some of the chocolate consumed today through the use of spices that were used by Mayans and Aztecs. Chocolate has, and always will be, an “American” creation.
the final stage of the chocolate process: our delicious sweets!
try this at home :
add a spin to the traditional tasty drink with some spanish spices!
spiced hot chocolate difficulty- medium makes six mugs
ingredients: 6 cups whole milk 3/4 teaspoon whole coriander seeds 3/4 cup (packed) dark brown sugar 3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 15 whole cardamom pods, crushed 1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper 12 whole cloves 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 2 cinnamon sticks, broken in half 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 whole star anise directions: Bring first 9 ingredients to simmer in heavy large saucepan, stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, cover, and let steep 20 minutes. Add cocoa powder and vanilla. Bring to simmer, whisking until blended. Strain hot chocolate into 8-cup measuring cup; discard spices. Divide hot chocolate among 6 mugs. courtesy of Bon Appetit, March 2004
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edible’s food crawl 2011-2012
hot chocolate! edible staffers Cathrine Engelmann (‘14) and Sophie Dizengoff (‘14) travel around nyc to find the best hot chocolate.
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lthough, spring is right around the corner, you can always enjoy a nice cup of hot cocoa on a gray and foggy day to bring a smile to your face. We had always known that there were many excellent hot chocolate venues throughout the city, but we were curious to find out which was the absolute best. We decided to take a tour around our neighborhoods to find our top four favorite places for hot chocolate. We have proven that you don’t have to brave the wind and the cold too long before finding the perfect cup, as these are all just around the corner.
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hot cho col ate ! fo o d c r aw l 2 0 1 1 -2 0 1 2 vosges haute chocolate
serendipity 3
This store, easily recognized by its purple awning, has only two branches in the City, meaning it may not be convenient for everyone, but it is definitely worth a trip. More than just your average chocolate store, Vosges specializes in a variety of creative chocolate bars and truffles including one bar that has bacon and chocolate in it. Their hot chocolate is similarly exotic. They carry three types of “drinking chocolate”: Aztec Elixir cocoa (a dark hot chocolate that contains Chile pepper), La Parisienne cocoa (a classic, bittersweet hot cocoa) and Bianca cocoa (a white hot chocolate). We were surprised to find that the spicy hot chocolate added just the right amount of kick to the simplicity of the classic hot chocolate. The white hot chocolate is a must-try for non-chocolate lovers as it is light and flowery and is an unusual find in the City. Vosges was definitely the most exotic store that we came across. The texture of their drinks was also much lighter than any of the other places that we tried.
Serendipity 3 is world famous for it’s deserts particularly it’s Frrrozen Hot Chocolate. This store is often packed with celebrities and tourists who might have seen the store in films. However, the hot chocolate will not disappoint the native New Yorker. This Frrrozen Hot Chocolate was not “hot,” but more like a milkshake with the same creamy thickness as hot chocolate: perfect for any weather. Although the recipe for the Frrrozen Hot was originally kept a secret, it was eventually released in 2001, and can now be found in the store’s recipe booklet. Serendipity 3 is the perfect place for chocolate and dessert lovers to hang out, eat, and enjoy. The store also has a wide selection of desserts that are all equally delicious. The main thing we did not like about Serendipity was the crowd of tourists who flock to it. The extravagant desserts receive more hype than deserve.
little brown
jacques torres
This bakery recently founded by Max Brenner, founder of Chocolate by the Bald Man, was bound to be good. And sure enough, it lived up to our expectations. They serve many varieties of thick, creamy, and sweet hot chocolate; including a decadent Nutella hot chocolate, my personal favorite. This store also offers a “spicy chili” hot chocolate, which seems to be en vogue nowadays. Be sure to ask for a homemade marshmallow on top. In case you are hungry, this seemingly small store carries also carries delicious pastries and sandwiches along with its hot chocolate and coffee. However, be sure not to miss the Nutella and the Sea Salt Caramel hot chocolates because although they are sickeningly sweet, they are an amazing treat.
Jacques Torres, also known as Mr. Chocolate, has a store that is the chocolate lovers dream, with a special line just for those purchasing hot coco. For those daring hot chocolate drinkers the “Wicked” is hot chocolate with a hint of chili pepper, chipotle, and cinnamon, which adds a kick to rich flavor of this delicious drink. The “Classic” is just as good with an overall thick, powerful, and rich taste. All chocolates are homemade by Torres himself, giving every dessert the warm texture we all love. The store is great for all ages and offers a variety of chocolates and deserts to go, as well as highly recommended homemade cookies.
83rd and madison
60th and lexington
85th and lexington
73rd and amsterdam
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12
latin flavor!
re cip e s
coconut flan
fresh tomatillo salsa
from Gourmet, December 2007 ingredients: for caramel: 1 cup sugar 1/4 cup water for flan: 3 1/2 cups whole milk, divided 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk 3 large eggs 1/4 cup sweetened flaked coconut 3 tablespoons dark rum directions: For caramel: Bring sugar and water to a boil in a small heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring until sugar has dissolved, then wash down any sugar crystals from side of pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water. Boil, without stirring, swirling pan occasionally so caramel colors evenly, until dark amber. Immediately pour into ramekins and swirl so caramel coats bottom of each, then put ramekins in a large roasting pan. For flan: Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. Blend 2 cups milk with remaining flan ingredients in a blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl and stir in remaining 1 1/2 cups milk, then divide among ramekins. Bake flan in a water bath until just set but still wobbly in center, 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Remove ramekins from water bath and cool slightly on a rack, at least 15 minutes (flan will continue to set as it cools). Just before serving, run a thin knife around each flan, then invert onto plates. cooks’ note: Flan can be made 2 days ahead. Chill in ramekins, uncovered, until cool, then covered. Let stand at room temperature about 1 hour before serving.
from Gourmet, September 2007
ingredients: 1/2 pound small fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed 1 large garlic clove 1 tablespoon chopped fresh serrano chile with seeds, or to taste 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons water directions: Coarsely chop tomatillos, then purée with remaining salsa ingredients and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a blender until smooth.
cinnamon sugar churros from Bon Appétit, March 2004
ingredients: for cinnamon sugar: 1 cup sugar 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt for churro batter: 1 cup whole milk 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter 2 teaspoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt 1 cup all purpose flour 4 large eggs 3 cups canola oil (for frying) directions: For cinnamon sugar: Whisk all ingredients in medium bowl to blend. For churro batter: Bring first 4 ingredients to boil in heavy medium saucepan, stirring until sugar dissolves and butter melts. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add flour; stir vigorously with wooden spoon until
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shiny dough mass forms, about 1 minute. Transfer to large bowl; cool 5 minutes. Using electric mixer, beat in eggs, 1 at a time; continue beating until smooth, shiny, sticky paste forms. (Can be made 2 hours ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.) Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat to 350°F. Working in batches, spoon batter into pastry bag fitted with large star tip. Pipe batter into hot oil in 3 1/2- to 4-inch-long ribbons (use knife if necessary to cut batter at end of star tip) and allow batter to slide into oil. Fry churros until brown and cooked through in center, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels. Cool 5 minutes, then toss in cinnamon sugar to coat. Serve warm with hot chocolate.
re cip es
cheese enchiladas with green sauces from Bon Appétit, February 1995
ingredients:
for sauce: 1/2 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon all purpose flour 1 cup whipping cream 1 cup milk 6 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro 3 green onions, minced 1/2 4-ounce can diced green chilies, drained 1 3/4 teaspoons ground cumin 1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander 1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper for enchiladas: 1/2 cup vegetable oil 12 6-inch corn tortillas 3 cups grated mild cheddar cheese 1 1/2 cups grated Monterey Jack cheese 1/2 cup finely chopped onion 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro 1/2 cup sour cream
directions:
For sauce: Cook spinach according to package instructions. Drain well. Set aside. Melt butter in heavy medium skillet over medium heat. Add flour and stir mixture 2 minutes; do not brown. Gradually whisk in whip-
ping cream and milk. Simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in spinach, cilantro, green onion, chilies, cumin, coriander and red pepper. Puree in batches in processor until almost smooth. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.) For enchiladas: Heat oil in heavy small skillet over medium-high heat. Using tongs, briefly dip each tortilla in oil to soften, about 15 seconds per side. Transfer to paper towels and drain. Combine cheeses in large bowl; set aside 1 1/2 cups for topping. Combine onion and cilantro in small bowl. Place 1/4 cup cheese mixture in center of 1 tortilla. Spoon 2 teaspoons onion mixture over. Roll up tortilla. Place seam side down in large glass baking dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas, cheese and onion, using 1/4 cup cheese for each. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.) Preheat oven to 375°F. Stir sour cream into sauce; pour over enchiladas. Sprinkle with reserved 1 1/2 cups cheese. Bake until cheese melts and enchiladas are heated through, about 25 minutes.
virgin frozen margaritas from CPKitchen
ingredients: 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1/2 lime, cut into 4 wedges 1 can (6 ounce size) frozen limeade concentrate, thawed 1/4 cup orange juice 4 cups ice cubes directions: Place the salt in a shallow dish. Rub the rim of individual margarita glasses with a lime wedge and dip the rims into the salt; set the lime wedges aside. In a blender, blend the limeade, orange juice, and ice cubes on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, or until well blended and the ice cubes are crushed. Pour evenly into the glasses and garnish with the lime wedges. Serve immediately.
edible’s agrios de los dios
ingredients: 1 part orange juice 1 part seltzer water orange rind grenadine to taste 1 cup of ice squirt of lemon juice (optional)
directions: In a blender, blend the orange juice, seltzer water, and ice on high speed for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Pour evenly into your fanciest glass and add grenadine. If desired, use a squirt of lemon juice for addional citrus flavor. Place the orange rind on the rim of the glass and serve immediately. 14
re st au r ant re v i e ws
rosa mexicano
lincoln center, nyc Jillian Lowey (‘15)
M
ost people go to Lincoln Center to enjoy cultural music and arts, but I went for the cultural cuisine of Rosa Mexicano. The minute I stepped through the restaurant’s double doors, I was surrounded by a sea of noisy customers in the dimly lit bar and lobby. Past the people was a deepblue tiled wall, with water trickling down it, and covered with hundreds of small white figures of diving. Even though I arrived just in time for my reservation, seeing the large crowd lead me to believe I would be waiting for hours before being seated. To my surprise, I was lead upstairs to the dining area within the minute. The noise had faded by the time I reached the dining room on the upper level. My friend and I were seated at my table for two, in the warm, inviting atmosphere. Even before I was handed the menu, I knew to get Rosa Mexicano’s famous Guacamole en Molcajete (molcajete is the stone bowl the guacamole’s made in) as it was suggested by multiple friends who have been to the restaurant before. The authentic menu listed the names of the Mexican dishes in Spanish, with a translation in English of what they consisted of. The menu also rated each dish on how spicy it is (0-3 peppers) which came in handy, since I’m not a fan of spicy foods. After reading through the menu multiple times, I decided to have the Ensalada del Marcado (garden salad) and the Alambre de Camarones (Shrimp Brochette) while my friend chose the Salmón en Manchemanteles (Salmon fillet with tropical fruit mole) and of course the guacamole! Soon after we ordered, a waiter brought over a cart with bowls of avocadoes, tomatoes, onions, and many spices to our table. He mixed and mashed the fresh produce in a bowl, and poured in the spices (we asked him to not make it too hot). The guacamole was placed on our table and served with corn chips, tortillas, and Mexican salsas too spicy for me to even touch. I have never tasted a guacamole as fresh and smooth with pieces of tomato and onion mixed in. It was hard to not fill up on. By the time our main courses came (not too much later) the bowl of guacamole was empty. The flavors were rich and tangy. The salad was light, and a great way to start the meal. The shrimp was perfect; flavorful and fresh. It was served with rice, which was just as good, tangy, and citrusy. We ended up with too much food to finish, but we got to try many different dishes. The dessert was just as good as the meal. We couldn’t
resist the churros and chocolate, caramel, and raspberry sauce. In addition to that, we ordered some of the best ice cream I’ve ever had: rich and creamy Mexican chocolate, coffee-Kahlua, and prickly pear with blueberries. Once we were done, we received the check, and were shocked by the high prices, but it was worth it. After we paid, we walked home completely satisfied.
the interior of rosa mexicano
what others are saying :
“The best guacamole place in the city!”
“The atmosphere was relaxing and the service was efficient.” “A Mexican restaurant with high quality food.” “Great Mexican food for a lot of money!” “It puts a contemporary twist on traditonal Mexican flavors.” 15
c u r rent e vents
español en america
the growth of spanish influence Melanie Totenberg (‘14)
I
n the past few years there has been a growing trend in the influence of Spanish cuisine in America. The trend range includes modern molecular gastronomy, more archaic tapas bars and tapas style small plate restaurants, as well as to the increasing demand for imported Spanish goods. Molecular gastronomy was originally fathered by the French chef Hervé This, but was popularized by the Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, owner of restaurant El Bullí located in Catalonia of Spain El Bullí was proclaimed the “World’s Best Restaurant” in 2006 by Restaurant magazine. Adrià was famed for his technique of transforming regular foods into foams, now a common technique used by chefs who do modern takes on food. Molecular gastronomy emphasizes deconstruction of common foods, such as turning carrots into a geleé and mushrooms into foam. The popular restaurant Alinea in Chicago makes use of such techniques. Another molecular gastronomy in America would be The Bazaar whose head chef is José Andrés. Molecular gastronomy cuisine seeks to dazzle and test the palette. Science is used to create flavors and textures that one would not think possible of say an average carrot. The presentation of the dishes is usually something modern that leaves the food in shapes, changing the way one would see that food. At the Bazaar classic dishes are interpreted into modern playful ways. José Andrés reinterprets the Spanish classic tortilla Española by taking an egg (still in shell) and boiling it at 63 degrees, filling it with potato foam, and finally topping it with caramelized onions. Molecular gastronomy has pushed the boundaries of
how chefs can create and present food. It does not necessarily have to be tasty, but must be creative. In America, tapas bars and tapas-styled small plate restaurants have certainly become more popular. A large majority of fine dining restaurants serve small portions, allowing the diner to try more things. An example of this would be Danny Meyer’s restaurant Tabla in New York City where its tasting menu was replaced with a menu featuring smaller portioned plates. Consumers tend to not think so much of adding up the costs of the small plates, and also order more in comparison to regular menus. Chefs can also be more inventive as huge amounts of ingredients are not needed per dish. Among the best in New York City would be Boquería, Degustation, and Txitito to name a few. Even renowned chef Mario Batalli owns a tapas-style restaurant. The popularity of small plates and tapas bars can be attributed to the fact that these smaller portions enable diners to order a couple or more dishes and share, thus enforcing the sense of communal dining. Over the years, the demand for Spanish artisanal imported goods and imported goods in general has, without a doubt, increased as a result of an increasing food consciousness and a growing number of foodie consumers who want the best of the best. Probably the most popular imported Spanish goods include Serrano and Iberico hams, sardines, olives, Marcona almonds, spicy chorizo (dried Spanish sausage), as well as saffron. Food trends constantly change, but for now Spanish food is in.
so how popular is hispanic food in new york city really? a few facts about the hispanic culture influence
27.5% of nyc is hispanic and latino
567
mexican restaurants in nyc 16
most tapa bars in nyc are in downtown manhattan
128
latino restaurants in nyc
c u r re nt e ve nts
bananas going extinct?
the future of the popular fruit Jennifer Heon (‘14)
W
hether you live in New York, New Jersey, Westchester, or Connecticut, finding a banana is a relatively simple task. Just walk or drive to the nearest supermarket, and you are guaranteed to find a shelf brimming with bananas. We never have to worry about a shortage of bananas, so it must seem pretty silly to think about bananas becoming extinct. However, if we look beyond the seemingly never-ending supply of bananas at the supermarket, we see that the production of bananas is being threatened. There are thousands of types of bananas, but today we almost exclusively eat the Cavendish. Before the Cavendish, we ate a more palatable banana called the Gros Michel, being thought to be larger and tastier. In the early 1900’s a fungus called the Panama disease attacked and killed the Gros Michel bananas all over the world. The fungus was so devastating that it resulted in the Gros Michel reaching near extinction and the banana industry being on the verge of bankruptcy. In order to save the banana industry, plantations began to grow the Cavendish banana, which was immune to the Panama disease. Although this banana was less enjoyable, it sufficed as a suitable replacement and the banana industry flourished again. Until recently the solution of introducing the Caven-
dish banana has worked nicely, but a new strain of the Panama disease is threatening the banana industry once again. This time, the Cavendish banana is not immune to the Panama disease. The disease has not yet reached Latin America, the main source of bananas for the world, but it is projected that the disease will reach Latin America in five to ten years. When the disease hits Latin America it is likely to drive the Cavendish to near or complete extinction, just as it did with the Gros Michel bananas. Maybe the banana industry will be able to find a new type of banana that is immune to the Panama disease, but the funding to find a new type of banana has been slow to materialize. If the banana industry does not gain sufficient resources to either find a new type of banana or a cure for the fungus, the banana may become extinct within the next couple decades. Of course, this is only a potential scenario, and it is possible that we will find a new type of banana or a cure to the Panama disease. Still, it is important to be aware of the deleterious effects of the Panama disease on the banana population. So the next time that you casually place a bunch of bananas in your shopping cart, consider that soon those beautiful yellow bananas may disappear from the supermarket shelf.
banana bread difficulty- medium makes 2 loaves
ingredients: 1 cup butter, softened 2 cups sugar 7 large ripe bananas, mashed 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract 4 eggs, slightly beaten 3 cups flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking soda 17
directions: 1. Cream the butter and sugar. Blend in the bananas, vanilla and eggs. 2. Whisk together the dry ingredients. 3. Add to the bread mixture and mix until just combined. Pour into two greased 9x5 inch loaf pans. 4. Bake at 350F. Check on the bread after 35 minutes (it may take up to 60 minutes). Banana bread is done when a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Cool the banana bread in the pan for 10 minutes then cool completely on a wire rack. courtesy of www.momswhothink.com
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vegetarian tapas:
little dishes for the health conscious Anushka Gupta (‘14)
T
apas are small, savory dishes commonly served in Spanish cuisine. They invite an opportunity to be able to try dishes of small portion sizes, and to experiment with new kinds of foods and flavors. In addition to being served both cold and hot, it can also fulfill the appetite of meat-eaters and vegetarians. Because serving sizes of tapas are very small, tapas consist of small-portioned fried protein. Therefore, vegetarian tapas are much healthier than meat tapas, and can be just as delicious if not more! Rather than making a protein, such as beef or chicken, the main component of a tapas dish, one can impart the same amount of flavor in a vegetable- such as mushrooms or peppers! Modern day tapas bars have even put a twist on the classics, and turned them into tapas meals, including onion rings and baked potatoes. What makes tapas so special is that simple ingredients can be presented with so much aroma and savor that they’re hardly recognizable as those same simple ingredients! Putting the garlic, and olive oil into a jar alone with cut pieces of cheese can supply the light flavor of olive oil and pungent aroma of garlic into the soft cheese. “Pan con tomate,” or “Bread with tomatoes” is an extremely famous Spanish tapas meal and can be made very
ingredients: for potatoes: 4 cups (1-inch) cubed peeled baking potato (about 1 1/2 pounds) 1 tablespoon butter 2 teaspoons olive oil 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper 2 garlic cloves, minced for sauce: 1 teaspoon olive oil 1 cup diced onion 1 cup diced green bell pepper 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce Parsley sprigs (optional)
easily at home. Combining the very manageable ingredients- baguette bread, tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil- a simplistic dish can be made. Put the tomatoes and garlic in a food processor while the baguette toasts, and then scoop the tomato mixture onto the toasted bread. This recipe reflects the traditional breakfast meal of just toast, but adding tomatoes and garlic makes it the perfect tapas or appetizer for any get-together and can make for a very tasty, light, and healthy snack! The benefits of vegetarian tapas are very similar to those of plain vegetarian food. The most visible reason to become vegetarian is that in their lives, vegetarians tend to eat about 25% less fat than meat-eaters, because eliminating meat gets rid of all the fat that comes with eating different cuts of meat. The main benefit of eating vegetarian tapas in particular is that because meat has been eliminated from the meal, most ingredients within the dish are more organic, and generally are not fried unlike meat tapas- and is therefore much healthier than tapas with some sort of protein in it. Vegetarian tapas can help you if you’re watching your weight, or just looking for something delicious to eat.
directions: To prepare potatoes, place potato in a medium saucepan; cover with water. Bring to a boil. Cook 1 minute or until crisp-tender; drain well. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add butter and 2 teaspoons oil to pan, swirling to coat bottom of pan; heat 30 seconds or until foam subsides. Add potato to pan; sauté 8 minutes or until browned. Stir in salt, red pepper, and garlic; sauté 1 minute. Remove potato mixture from pan; keep warm. To prepare sauce, heat pan over medium-high heat. Add oil to pan, 18
patatas bravas
difficulty: easy makes 6 servings
swirling to coat; heat 15 seconds. Add onion and bell pepper; sauté 5 minutes or until tender, stirring frequently. Add salt, red pepper, and tomato sauce; bring to a simmer. Cook 1 minute. Pour onion mixture into a blender. Blend until smooth. Serve sauce with potato mixture. Garnish with parsley sprigs, if desired.
look foward to our next issue...
spices!
19
edible March 2012