Edible San Antonio Summer 2024

SAN ANTONIO

Welcome to the sizzling pages of our summer issue of Edible San Antonio! As the temperatures rise, so does our desire to bring you a delectable array of culinary treats that celebrate the spicy spirit of our beloved city.

Prepare your taste buds for yet another adventure as we dive into a plethora of tasty viands this season, including what our readers demanded — an article featuring a spectrum of luscious local dumplings. I leapt continents in our very own city to discover a tantalizing variety of dumplings — steamed to fried, Japanese to Russian — in all shapes and sizes. I must say, a dumpling treasure hunt should be on everybody’s to-do list for enjoying our city. I can’t wait for you to try them all.

Also in the spotlight this season is renowned, several-time James Beard award-nominated chef Steven McHugh and his cornerstone restaurant at the Historic Pearl — Cured. McHugh recently published his new cookbook, also named Cured, inviting fans and food lovers to dive into the exotic world of fermentation, pickles and preserves. The cookbook showcases thorough and thoughtful recipes, from preserved citrus ceviche to pickled “pimento” cheese, that should grace your summer dinner tables to ensure happily-fed guests.

But wait, there's more! Join us as we uncover the newly relocated hot spot, chef Pieter Sypesteyn's NOLA Brunch & Beignets, where every day is a celebration of brunch, New Orleans-style. That means with warmth, community and scrumptious dishes that make you smile with every bite. Whether you’re looking for a place to enjoy a leisurely meal with family and friends or simply grab a quick breakfast or lunch, this is the go-to spot for indulging in mouthwatering NOLA favorites, and that most certainly includes beignets!

And if you're craving a taste of something new and exciting, look no further than the recently opened Make Ready Market, just a few minutes south of the Pearl, off Broadway. With multiple delicious fast-casual concepts to choose from, San Antonians now have endless ways to indulge and discover new favorite eats.

Of course, no summer issue would be complete without a refreshing bowl of Mother Culture's yogurt from the Pearl Farmers Market, along with other yummy recommendations in "What's On Our Counter.” Here, you’ll discover the best way to stay satisfied with some fresh, light summer eats. Last but not least, don't miss out on the latest culinary tidbits in the "Notable Edibles" section, including titillating news from chef Stefan Bowers and the transition of Pumpers pop-ups into a brick and mortar, where you can smash those smash burgers any time you like! You’ll also find out what chef Jesse Kuykendall (aka Chef Kirk) of Ocho has been up to lately, and get a hot tip on one of the latest food trucks to turn brick-and-mortar, which is serving up tasty dishes straight from the Hawaiian Islands. Finally, make sure to mark your calendars for the upcoming annual Southern Family Farmers & Food Systems Conference, which takes place on August 5 and 6 and is a must for anyone who is passionate about growing and eating local food. So, grab a cocktail, find a cozy cafe corner (or your own couch or porch will do), and get ready to embark on a culinary journey through the flavors of a summer in San Antonio.

With warm regards and hearty appetites,

PUBLISHER

Monique Threadgill monique@atxpublications.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Ralph Yznaga ralph@atxpublications.com

EDITOR

Kimberly Suta kimberly@ediblesanantonio.com

COPY EDITORS

Claire Cella

Stacey Ingram Kaleh

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Olivier J. Bourgoin

Ashley Brown

Meredith Kay

Nathan Mattise

Francisco Ortiz

Pauline Stevens

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Pauline Stevens

ADVERTISING SALES

Grace McCormick grace@atxpublications.com

CONTACT US: 512-441-3971 info@ediblesanantonio.com ediblesanantonio.com 5524 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. J-4 Austin, TX 78746

A Different Type of Tap Room

Looking to try a new place, or a different type of beverage? How about both?

Fermenteria Tap Room at 2243 East Commerce Street is the brainchild of the University of Texas at Austin graduate, Jade C. Sheppard. Even though it’s a bonafide tap room, the brew that’s flowing from those taps is not beer. Instead, get ready to experience hard water kefir, a beverage brimming with beneficial probiotics. Sheppard says, “Our hard water kefir has a low five-percent alcohol content. It contains only a hundred calories per can, zero sugar or artificial sweeteners and is full of live probiotics! It is unadulterated and naturally fermented in small batches right here in San Antonio.”

Kefir is a cultured milk by-product with origins in central and eastern Europe. It’s made by inoculating milk with kefir grains, which are live probiotics shaped like clusters of tiny, soft white marshmallows. Water kefir is light, fizzy and healthy. It can be made with or without alcoholic fermentation. At Fermenteria, both versions are served.

Available flavors include orange elderflower, Thai lime coconut, strawberry rose, paloma, hibiscus sangria, pineapple lemongrass and brut as in dry sparkling wine. The non-alcoholic versions are pineapple coconut, butterfly blossom and strawberry lime tulsi. Growlers to-go can be purchased there, or you can bring your own. And if you get caffeine cravings, both espresso and nitro cold brew coffee are on the menu. fermenteria.com

Dips Born from Generations of Family Recipes

Pilar Gonzalez-Garza grew up learning her great aunt and grandmother’s recipes. The care of their memories is the foundation of her now-thriving, Mission, Texas-based gourmet dip business, DipIt by Pilar. Hard work, creativity and determination are its pillars. “Every tub of my product is infused with the spirit and the love of family,” she explains.

DipIt by Pilar gourmet dips are crafted from the highest quality, allnatural, fresh and nutritious ingredients, without preservatives or flavor additives. The dips have won taste and quality awards all along the way, including a top spot in H-E-B’s 2014 Quest for Texas Best contest. They are now available in more than 100 H-E-B stores across Texas.

This versatile product, which comes in a cream cheese or yogurt base, is more than a dip, it can be used to make homemade salad dressings, or to spruce up your own family recipes or dishes from chicken to seafood or pasta to burgers. A variety of flavors are available, including bacon, chipotle, cilantro, jalapeño, olives, red chili pepper, spinach, zesty avocado and more.

More info (as well as recipes) can be gleaned at dipitbypilar.com

Yummy Yogurt With High Standards

Michelle Allen is the brain and the brawn behind Mother Culture. When her daughter Emma was a young child, she was diagnosed with over 30 food allergies along with a slew of other ailments, which presented daily challenges for her and Allen. After researching allergies and implementing some diet adjustments, Emma’s condition improved dramatically. Allen was sold on the lifestyle changes but was unable to readily find the products she wanted for her daughter on grocery store shelves. So, she started making her own homemade, old-world-style yogurt. Her company spawned from there.

“Oftentimes, folks don’t realize that a product made in an ethical fashion just tastes better. My baby showed me the way to a sustainable biotic, nourishing diet,” Allen says. “I do not compromise on quality. We use only the highest quality milk that comes from grass-fed, cream-top, raw 100-percent organic, pesticide and GMO free milk.”

When they started 10 years ago, they were producing about 30 gallons per week. Today, they’re up to 800 gallons and producing two styles of yogurt: signature (or plain) and cheesecloth-strained Greekstyle. Some of the signature flavors available include plain, blueberry lemon, honey vanilla, maple ginger, lime + mint, and cherry berry and in the Greek-style: plain, luscious lemon, honey vanilla, maple pecan, triple berry and… (my favorite), dark chocolate. Mother Culture can be found at Whole Foods, Central Market and at area farmers markets, including the Pearl. motherculturesa.com

Gourmet Nuts Made With Love

Before Albert ‘Al’ Anaglia and his wife, Margaret Wilson-Anaglia bought their gourmet nuts business, Al’s Gourmet Nuts, from a retired chef, Wilson-Anaglia was a stay-at-home mom and wife of almost 25 years. Even with limited marketing experience and none in the food business, the couple has harnessed her passion and love for fresh and local food, made the old-fashioned way, to create a successful venture that’s been thriving for almost 25 years.

“Passion, dedication and love of what we do are what drives me,” says Wilson-Anaglia. Al’s Gourmet Nuts are grown by local growers, made only in small batches and include peanuts, pecans, almonds and, now, kettle corn. The nuts are vegetarian as well as gluten, soy and dairy-free. “We infuse them with lavender and Texas honey, and all the love that we pour into it the old-fashioned way,” she quips. alsgourmetnuts.com

WORDS BY OLIVIER J. BOURGOIN (AKA. OLIVIER THE WINE GUY)

Olivier J. Bourgoin has been a wine broker and consultant, as well as a freelance writer, who has been involved in these industries in and around the greater San Antonio area for more than 25 years. A native of France with family roots deep in the wine producting region of Burgundy, he is known as "Olivier the Wine Guy" and featured as such on a local weekly radio segment for 20 years.

Left Page

Top Left: Photo by Caswell

Bottom Left: Photo by DipIt by Pilar Right Page

Top Right: Photo by Mother Culture

Bottom Right: Photo by Al's Gourmet Nuts

MAUI MIKE’S OPENS NEW BRICK-AND-MORTAR LOCATION

Maui Mike’s, a food truck that has been serving up burgers, surf and turf and Hawaiian-inspired foods for more than a decade, now has a brick-and-mortar location. Situated at 1022 North Main Avenue between the Tobin Hill neighborhood and the edge of downtown, Maui Mike’s offers classic, quickcasual dishes such as burgers, fries, onion rings and milkshakes, as well as specialties like shrimp and fish tacos, poké bowls, malasadas (Hawaiian donuts) and loco moco, a Hawaiian staple consisting of white rice topped with a burger patty, brown gravy and a sunny-side-up fried egg. With a soft opening in March, Maui Mike’s started providing dinner service in early April. They also have their own app, free to download for Apple or Android. Diners can order a Hawaiian delight to-go or request delivery in the immediate area. Find out what else Maui Mike’s has in store by checking out its Facebook page.

PUMPERS LANDS A NEW

PERMANENT HOME

Local chef Stefan Bowers has been thrilling burger fans with his side project, Pumpers, for the past four years, aided by the irreverent marketing of Pumpers pop-ups at hot spots across the city. This summer, Pumpers opens a brick-and-mortar home at 1101 Broadway Street. According to reports, this property across from Maverick Park will be a new mixed-use redevelopment of a 1940s-era, 17,000-square-foot brick building,

enjoying beverages with bites. Chef Andreas Imhof, formerly of Restaurant Gwendolyn and Star Fish, and chef Teddy Liang have developed an island-inspired menu that includes jerk yakitori, green mango salad, razpacho — a local variation of raspa — and crudo. Conversa does have a dress code that ranges from smart casual on the lower level to more fashionable on the upper level. Check out Conversa at conversaelevated.com for more information and to make a reservation.

GUAC IT LIKE I TALK IT “STICKS” AROUND

and will house a blend of small retail and dining options, including Pumpers. Bowers says the brick-and-mortar version will offer Pumpers’ tidy five-burger selection that is familiar to fans of the pop-ups, as well as to a few new, non-smash burger surprises. Follow Pumpers on Instagram at @pumpers_world for more details.

CONVERSA ELEVATED OPENS ITS DOORS

Conversa Elevated, an upscale, dual-level bar, opened up in the Dominion area a few months ago. Conversa provides full-bar service on both levels, alongside a variety of spirits, wine and cigars as well as low-to-non-alcohol options. The first level is designed as a more casual area to snag a drink and have a great conversation with a companion or a group before ascending upstairs to a reservationonly dining space for an extended evening

A WAY TO THE HEART KEEPS DINERS GUESSING

When A Way to the Heart restaurant opened in The Yard retail center in Olmos Park in 2021, chef and co-owner Diego Gonzalez was committed to offering a variety of intriguing dining options throughout the year. “We do have a constant rotation of cuisines. Every three months, we go from continent to continent, exploring the local cuisine and agriculture, and then create dishes inspired by them,” says Gonzalez. To that end, Gonzalez shares that the menu this summer will focus on Caribbean and Latin American foods. The menu will feature traditional dishes from places such as Peru, Argentina and the Amazon delta. According to Gonzalez, visitors can always expect an elegant, curated exploration of cuisine, regardless of what’s on the menu. This past winter, diners enjoyed an African-focused menu, and Asian cuisine last summer. A Way to the Heart is located at 5251 McCullough Avenue. Follow them at awaytotheheart.com to see what thrilling dishes Gonzalez and his team come up with next.

After the COVID-19 outbreak prompted the cancellation of Fiesta 2020, Milli Guzman was inspired to keep the spirit of a beloved Fiesta food — chicken on a stick — alive by creatively experimenting with it in her kitchen. Four years later, Guzman and her unique pop-up venture, Guac It Like I Talk It, is still cooking. Guzman’s chicken on a stick variations, such as a heart-shaped chicken for Valentine’s season, Doritos Nacho Cheese, and Hot Cheetos, have grown more popular with locals at markets and events. Most recently, Guzman popped up at Guayabera Fest and a Lunar New Year block party. But don’t worry, you don’t need to wait for Guac It Like I Talk It to feed the masses at special events, as Guzman also accepts direct message orders on the business’ Instagram for curbside pickup or delivery. She currently offers 10 varieties of chicken on a stick and they’re all finger-licking-good! Find Guzman on Instagram at @guacitlikeitalkit_ to order and for more details.

HAPPEA VEGANS LAUNCHES NEW WEBSITE

HapPea Vegans, a self-proclaimed vegan butcher, launched a new website in March — happeavegans.com — where anyone can find a variety of vegan “meats” and dishes. HapPea’s online menu runs the gamut, from vegan corned beef — coined Corny Not Horny Beef — and vegan pot pies to jalapeño smoked sausage rings, NoBull

Brisket, and Phoxy No Oxtails. Leah Drones founded HapPea Vegans with Javier Balderas in 2018, creating plant-based meats that became a quick hit at pop-ups, and went from operating a food truck to offering a widening selection of vegan meats across San Antonio and Austin. Despite the usual business ups and downs over the years, HapPea Vegans continues to come up with innovative ways to offer tasty faux meats at events and local businesses, such as Sodamigo.

In an Instagram post announcing the new HapPea Vegans website, Drones shared that putting the wholesale food service online is a milestone. "We’re bringing Texan barbecue a new face — cruelty-free and handcrafted, made with so much damn love for you, the animals, and the health of our loved ones,” he says. Follow HapPea Vegans on Instagram @happeavegans.

A native San Antonian, Francisco Ortiz has been a local journalist for more than 25 years, having worked full time or freelanced for several area news publications. Ortiz studied mass communications at San Antonio College and Texas State University. When he's not writing or editing, he enjoys hiking, reading, and watching or playing basketball.

Ocho chef Jesse Kuykendall’s second culinary concept, Milpa, recently found a new permanent home on San Antonio’s near Eastside. Kuykendall — also known as Chef Kirk — and partner chef Anthony Hernandez began operating Milpa out of a small, renovated former ice house next to The Dakota East Side Ice House. Milpa has developed a significant following, thanks in large part to an incredible menu that focuses on scratchmade Mexican street food. Dishes include empanadas, pozole and tacos arabes, which feature pieces of pork marinated with spices that Middle Eastern immigrants first brought to Mexico. Kuykendall said Milpa maintains a focus on Mexican fusion using classic techniques. The crew makes their own corn tortillas and plans to roast their own coffee beans soon. They also plan to add carnitas and barbacoa by the pound to their offerings, as well as brunch dishes all day. Currently, you can order from the Milpa menu at The Dakota, until the new spot is finished. The long-term goal is to offer reservation-only, multi-course dinners. Find Milpa at milpasatx.com

SAVE THE DATE FOR LOCAL FOODS

CONFERENCE

The Southern Family Farmers and Food Systems Conference is, indeed, a mouthful, but it’s one worth savoring. The annual conference takes place this year on August 5–6 at Texas State University, and, although it’s largely geared toward Texas’ food producers, the conference is for anyone who is passionate about growing and eating local food. This is a chance to get educated on a variety of topics regarding food sustainability and resilience, and meet the farmers, ranchers and leaders in our state that affect your own personal food system. The event is hosted by the Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance, Small Producers Initiative at Texas State University and the Council for Healthy Food Systems. To grab your tickets, visit: southernfamilyfarmersconference.org.

Top Left: Photo by Guac It like I Talk It

Top Right: Photo by Milpa

Bottom Right: Photo by Happea Vegans

Top Left: Photo by Maui Mike's Top Right: Photo by A Way to the Heart Bottom: Photo by Pumper's

Culinary Mosaic with a Community Focus

MAKE READY MARKET

It’s no secret that the heart of San Antonio is expanding. The downtown area has seen staggering growth over the past several years, and the trend won’t be slowing anytime soon. Downtown has seen many multi-use developments become destinations for locals as well as tourists from around the world. Nestled within this bustling urban landscape, Make Ready Market is one of these locations. Situated in the repurposed and reimagined building of the former Cavender Cadillac dealership on Broadway, Make Ready Market is now ready to welcome culinary enthusiasts and those seeking an inclusive and diverse community gathering space.

Make Ready Market currently features eight retail partners, each specializing in their own unique foods, beverages and gifts. Food is the common language spoken here with several, locally-owned restaurant stalls serving everything from Thai fried chicken, Mexican seafood specialties, authentic Venezuelan fare to hearty American burgers and fries. Visitors can also cool off at Casa Morgana Gelatos, an all-natural concept that originated in Mexico. Casa Morgana sources their ingredients and flavors from local farms and vendors to create the purest and most delicious gelatos.

The eclectic collection of food purveyors at Make Ready Market creates a unique culinary tapestry offering something for everyone. The food hall offers plenty of seating inside at long communal tables, as well as a spacious outdoor area perfect for group outings and celebratory gatherings. The market also plans to host events, including live music and karaoke nights, community events and educational speaker panels.

Zach Garza serves as the general manager, and is also an operating partner of Garaje Cantina, the onsite icehouse featuring craft beers, wine and raspa-inspired frozen cocktails. Garza wants visitors to

know that Make Ready Market isn’t just about the food, it’s about the experience.

“We want Make Ready Market to be the place where you come to do your thing, whatever that ‘thing’ is. All of our partners are local businesses where the proprietors are actually working onsite to ensure that visitors get the best possible service. It’s a place for locals, created by locals,” he says.

While Make Ready Market still has space to add two or three additional eateries, the current vendors create a full sensory feast of sights, sounds and smells inside the food hall. Thai Bird welcomes chef David Gilbert (of the former Tuk Tuk Taproom) back to San Antonio. His flavorful Thai street food will have you craving the sweet spicy Thai chicken tenders paired with satisfying jasmine-scented rice. Equally enticing there is the red curry corn, served steaming hot and spiced with Thai chiles for just the right amount of heat. It pairs perfectly with an ice cold beer.

Across the culinary world (and actually just across the food hall), empanadas and arepas are on the menu at Four Brothers Venezuelan Kitchen. A true family endeavor, the Barrientos family welcomes you to experience their culture through delicious food such as crispy arepas stuffed with tender, slow-stewed pork or chicken, savory black beans and Venezuelan cheese, complemented by sweet fried plantains and

avocado sauce. Their empanadas and rice bowls are equally enticing, transporting your taste buds to South America.

Focusing on fresh seafood, Pescado Bravo serves Mexican-inspired tacos, burritos and tostadas, along with fresh ceviche and agua chile. At the helm of Pescado Bravo is Orlando Aguirre, who also owns Chilaquil at The Pearl. Aguirre brings his successful Mexican specialty concept to Make Ready Market with a passion for transforming Mexican flavors of Mexico into delicious and approachable dishes.

For all-American comfort food, diners will want to head over to the counter at EET-UP, the sister restaurant to Orderup in Lincoln Heights. Here, you can enjoy perfectly seasoned, char-grilled burgers and sandwiches along with their famous handcut French fries and house-made chips and queso. For those with a sweet tooth, their huge, chocolate chip-laden CH2 Cookies will satisfy any craving.

Rounding out this stellar line-up of Make Ready Market vendors is BūJē Beverage Co. serving up their refreshing fresh-squeezed lemonades, smoothies, acai bowls and wellness shots, as well as The Fair Goods, an artisan gift boutique featuring an eclectic assortment of gifts from Texas artisans and artists.

Make Ready Market is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. at 203 West 8th St. and online at makereadymarket.com.

Meredith Kay has called San Antonio home for over 30 years and is an incurable foodie with an insatiable case of wanderlust. Meredith is constantly looking for her next adventure, and easily makes friends with everyone she meets.

WORDS BY MEREDITH KAY

Photo by Make Ready Market

What's In Season

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

This Summer

Summer may be sweltering hot but delicious sun-kissed fruits and colorful vegetables are begging to be bagged at your local farmers market even at the height of the heat. Summer is for different varieties of eggplant, not to mention okra and, of course, bountiful hot, hot peppers.

Fig Peach

Watermelon

Cantaloupe & Other Melons

Corn

Eggplant

Okra Hot Peppers

From the Gulf Brown Shrimp (from mid-July)

For more information on farmers markets, seasonal recipes and what’s in season, visit ediblesanantonio.com

Fig, Balsamic and Feta Pizza

Recipe and photos by Pauline Stevens

PIZZA DOUGH

1 T. dry yeast

1/4 t. caster sugar

3/4 c lukewarm water

11/2 c. flour

1 t. sea salt flakes

PREPARATION

Place yeast, sugar and water in a bowl and set aside for 5 minutes. Place flour and salt in a separate bowl and make a well in the center. Add yeast mixture, and with well-floured hands, form a dough.

On a floured surface, knead the mixture for 4 minutes until smooth and elastic.

Place in a lightly greased bowl and cover with a damp cloth. Set aside in a warm place for 30 minutes, until the dough has doubled in size.

FIG, BALSAMIC AND FETA PIZZA

10 medium size figs cut in half

1 T. olive oil

3 garlic cloves mashed into a paste

2/3 c. crumbled feta

1/4 c. coarsely chopped walnuts

2 T. balsamic vinegar

1/2 c. arugula

PREPARATION

Preheat the oven to 475°. Cut dough in two. Using your hands make two round disks that are about 8 inches in diameter. Add olive oil and garlic paste to taste. Add sliced figs, 4 to 5 depending on the size. Add crumbled feta and chopped walnuts. Bake pizza at 475° for 10 to 15 minutes. Add arugula and drizzle with balsamic vinegar.

Beside her passion for photography, Pauline Stevens enjoys traveling and baking. She also visits every possible farmers market, even between frequent visits to NYC where her quadruplet sons live. Follow her store on IG @redbirdshouse.

Peach Galette

Serves 4

2 c. frozen sliced peaches or 3 medium ripe peaches, sliced

3 T. brown sugar

1/2 t. cinnamon

3 thyme sprigs

1/2 c. soft cream cheese

1 pie crust dough

1 beaten egg, for a wash

1 t. coarse crystal sugar

Powdered sugar (optional)

PREPARATION

Preheat the oven to 350°. If using frozen, place frozen peaches in a bowl until defrosted. Add to defrosted or fresh peaches brown sugar, cinnamon and leaves of two sprigs of thyme, and let stand for 5 minutes. Roll the pie crust into the shape of a rectangle, about 9 inches by 12 inches. Place on a baking sheet, then spread the cream cheese over most of the rectangle, leaving a 2-inch space around the edges. Arrange peaches on top of the cream cheese layer. Fold the edges of the pastry around the peaches, leaving an opening in the middle. Brush pastry edges with egg wash. Add the final sprig of thyme and coarse sugar crystals to the top of the galette. Bake at 350° for 40-45 minutes or until the crust is golden. Serve warm and with a sprinkle of powdered sugar for decoration.

SAN ANTONIO'S STEAMY LOVE AFFAIR GROWS AND GROWS

Dumpling Diaries

Dumplings … they’re such delightful, pillowy pockets filled with heavenly goodness, it’s no wonder these bite-sized treasures have grown in popularity. And the further you delve into the fascinating world of dumplings, the more varieties you discover. In fact, almost every culture around the globe has a traditional dumpling in its culinary heritage. They may come in different shapes, with different doughs, different fillings, herbs and preparations, but each are quintessentially a dumpling, and we can’t get enough of them!

I nterestingly, the first known dumpling recipe appeared in a Roman cookbook, but most experts believe that dumplings were originally invented in China by medicine practitioner Zhang Zhongjing, during the second imperial dynasty more than 2,000 years ago. Those steamed dumplings served a medicinal purpose — as a way to offset the winter chill while also filling people’s bellies with healthful herbs and proteins.

Now, of course, we don’t typically eat dumplings for their health benefits, as much as for pure enjoyment, but it’s certainly an added bonus while exploring San Antonio’s dumpling scene. To that end, here are some delicious places to check out.

L et’s start with one of the most ubiquitous dumplings to be found in the Alamo City — gyoza! My most recent sampling was at Yozora Sake & Wine Listening Bar in the Dominion area, an izakaya-style eatery akin to a tapas bar. Yozora offers a more upscale experience with a speakeasy vibe with low lighting and an eclectic selection of music via record player.

T he exceptional menu ranges from mouthwatering crudos made with the freshest seafood to yakitori and other meats grilled over charcoal imported from Japan. Besides their divinely creamy miso soup drizzled with truffle oil, one of the most scrumptious dishes is their Hot Line Crispy (pork) Gyoza, which is pan-fried, then deep-fried, to make them extra crispy before glazing with a sweet chili sauce, sprinkling with Parmigiano Reggiano and serving with their addictive 911 sauce for dipping.

You can find more traditional yet equally flavorful gyoza all over town, including Kimura, Ming’s Thing, The Nest Boba Cafe, Hanzo and Suck It: The Restaurant. In fact, Suck It just opened a sister restaurant next to their downtown location, called Suck It Izakaya & Sushi, where they actually make dumplings live and serve top-shelf Japanese whiskey.

For something out of the box, I recommend the Impossible potstickers, which have been on the menu at Best Quality Daughter since day one. Modeled after traditional Chinese pork dumplings, owner and James Beard Award semifinalist chef Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin uses vegan “meat” and wraps instead, along with fresh garlic, ginger, green onion, sesame, shiitake powder, white pepper and vegetarian oyster sauce to create a tasty vegan dumpling that happily shocks most guests. Dobbertin also serves up mindblowing brunch dumplings on Sundays, made with pork chorizo, egg and cheese. These, you’ve got to try.

Moving on, the broader dumpling craze has lately honed in on soup dumplings, which are a little harder to find in San Antonio. My most enjoyable soup dumpling experience was at, not surprisingly, DASHI Sichuan Kitchen + Bar. Owner and chef Kristina Zhao never disappoints with her exquisite cuisine, including delicate, steamed dumplings, made with either chicken, pork, or pork and crab.

If you’re unfamiliar with soup dumplings, they are typically made using juicy meat and a rich, seasoned broth that, when steamed, transforms the dumplings into little packets of hot soup and meat. Eat with caution, so that you don’t lose any of that yummy broth when you take a bite.

Kung Fu Noodle on Huebner Road is another Chinese dumpling restaurant that is getting a lot of love, so research demanded that I sample these as well. I was very pleased with their combo special that includes a 10-piece order of amorphous-shaped dumplings and a bowl of handmade noodles with lamb, served in a broth with a five-spiced egg. I ordered the top seller — the steamed dumplings stuffed with pork and chives, which you can drizzle with a sesame chili oil, soy sauce and/or an unusual black vinegar, which I quite liked.

Next, I discovered Momo House on De Zavala, an unassuming space situated in a gas station convenience store, which makes it all the more startling, when you bite into the little pockets of joy offered there. Momos are Nepali-style dumplings, which are defined by their round shape and the unique spices and chilis used to make them. Momo House serves chicken, pork and veggie dumplings in a variety of permutations, but my all-time favorite is the spicy Chili Momo dish, which comes with 10 fried momos tossed in a scintillating house chili paste, along with sautéed veggies. All momos are served with Nepalistyle tomato dipping sauce known as atchar. Thankfully, you can now buy frozen momos here, too, so you can cook and eat them at home any time. Truth be told, they’re perfect for a late-night snack!

Still on the search for more and different dumplings, I heard of a Russian variety being served at a chill neighborhood bar in Beacon Hill called Web House. Not unlike the Chinese-style dumplings, Russian dumplings are steamed and come in two shapes. One is called pelmeni and are shaped like large tortellini and filled with either beef, chicken, lamb, or pork and beef. Owner and chef Mischka Timofeyev says these are called Siberian dumplings and can be found at pelmeni cafeterias all over Russia. The second kind are called vareniki; these half moon-shaped dumplings are filled with fun ingredients, such as potato, onion, mushrooms, cheese and a mild sauerkraut. Unusually, both types are served with sour cream and fresh dill, making these dumplings a satisfyingly decadent snack. And don’t forget about Matzoh balls! Locally, Max and Louie’s New York Diner serves up a hearty bowl of this popular Jewish soul food with scratch-made broth and Long Island-style egg noodles, along with tons of chicken, as well as veggies and two ginormous matzo balls. Which dumplings are next on your list to try? Let’s keep exploring!

Left Page

Left: Chef Ceasar Zepeda

Top: Thai Taco Salad

Bottom: Crispy Chicken Benedicts

Kimberly A. Suta is editor of Edible San Antonio, a filmmaker, food writer, event planner, culinary tour guide and has a media company called Homegrown Chef. She loves nothing more than sharing the phenomenal food, chefs and restaurants that San Antonio and Texas have to offer.

Left Page

Best Quality Daughter photo by Ben Yanto

Right Page

Top: Photo by Max and Louie's

Top: Photo by Kimberly Suta

Bottom: Yozora photo by Kimberly Suta

Bottom Right: Suck It photo by Kimberly Suta

The Curated Chef

STEVE MCHUGH'S COOKBOOK, CURED, IS AS DELECTABLE AS HIS RESTAURANT

WORDS BY NATHAN MATTISE

Cured, the new cookbook from chef Steve McHugh and Austinbased veteran food writer Paula Forbes, is not a typical cookbook. Readers won’t simply find a biography of a restaurant or chef with recipes sprinkled throughout.

Fans of McHugh’s beloved historic Pearl District institution of the same name shouldn’t fret, though — the techniques and ideas in the book were definitely inspired by what happens at Cured, the restaurant. McHugh says he has over 300 cookbooks in his personal collection but often finds himself only using bits and pieces from each. When it came to his own cookbook, he wanted it to be something different. He and Forbes only discovered what that would be after Forbes started observing the kitchen at the James Beard Awardnominated establishment.

“People love Cured because they come in and it’s always different. We replan every day based on what we have — Friday, I had some very beautiful baby carrots on the steak but today we’re using snow peas a farmer dropped off,” McHugh says. “So Cured is always, ‘What do we have and what will we do?’ It challenges my chefs, because you can get stuck in a rut otherwise.”

“ The book started as more of a preservation book — focused on pickling, curing — but as Paula spent more time with my chefs and partners, she started to see this evolutional thing we do every day,” McHugh continues. “We would take granola we made and make a bread pudding, or we’d turn pickles we made from unused vegetables into a smoky pickle remoulade. She said, ‘This is what we have to do.’”

Available since late March, Cured does still include directions for those who want to pickle, ferment, dry age and cure like their favorite San Antonio culinary destination. But McHugh and Forbes’ work goes beyond that — it’s less how to preserve foods and more why. They ultimately put together over 150 recipes that focus on everyday ingredients, how to build upon what you have and encourage creative tinkering.

For example, there’s a recipe for mustard, of course, but then Cured has ideas for several variations, such as sambal mustard, sweet potato mustard or cherry mustard. And once the mustard has been created, the book takes readers to the next logical steps with ideas like adding mustard to macaroni and cheese or offering recipes for mustard-centric dishes such as bacon potato salad or split pea soup.

“ There’s a million chef books out there, I get it, but that’s not what I wanted to create. I was adamant about a book that was purposeful and not necessarily about me,” McHugh says. “I wanted a holistic book that’s put together in a way the everyday reader could enjoy, not just some young line cook or an aspiring chef. So with a lot of these ingredients, a lot of people already have them in their refrigerators or pantries. And they sit there. In our brains, we think granola only goes on yogurt, or mustard goes on a hot dog. But we’re trying to get people to think about these things — you

can really use this mustard to brighten up a soup or things like that. We want to give people license to get outside common restraints.”

McHugh has been living with Cured for a while. He started his book proposal in 2019, devoted a ton of time to the project during the early days of the pandemic, and worked with Forbes for five years to generate recipes, write and revise. McHugh even surprised himself with some of the ideas he and Forbes ended up including.

“The one that surprises most people is the granola pie,” he says. “It was the simplest, dumbest aha moment. Once you make granola, what do you do with it — do you just toss it on some yogurt with berries and be good with it? I remember thinking, ‘Well, what if instead of a pecan pie, we just used granola? Well, that might work. I don’t know if I’ve seen it anywhere or read it in a book, but I’m sure someone’s done it.’ So I took the pecan pie recipe I developed years ago for the restaurant and swapped ingredients. Texturally it makes so much sense — I love pecan pie for the texture, the sweet, the crunch, the salt. So this really works and I’ve been geeking out about it recently.”

For anyone visiting McHugh’s restaurant in 2024, the cookbook has a clear presence. Not only can you buy it (and McHugh says he’s been signing copies if he’s around when customers ask), but recipes from Cured the book have become recipes for Cured the restaurant — like the granola pie. McHugh now creates the pie in mini-form as a check presenter “because everyone just loves it,” he notes. There may be no immediate plans to do another launch event at the restaurant, but you can find some of the other new recipes on the menu.

“Recipes from the book have been creeping onto the restaurant menu,” McHugh says. “The pickled shrimp is now on the menu, we’re doing the granola pie, and we’re getting back into our mustard game — things like that where we say, ‘Hey this is a great recipe’ or, ‘Let’s put this on to showcase the book.’ So now if people come in and say, ‘What’s in the book?’

‘Well, how did you enjoy that pickled shrimp or how was the dressing you had?’ Offering these things showcases the book’s versatility. That pickled shrimp you had? That’s easy to make.”

You can purchase signed copies of the book at Cured or (unsigned copies) can be found at the Twig bookstore or online at Amazon.com.

Left: Chef Ceasar Zepeda

Bottom: Crispy Chicken Benedicts

Top: Steve McHugh photo by Josh Huskin Bottom Left: Photo by Kimberly Suta Bottom Center: Photo by Scott Martin Bottom Right: Gumbo photo courtesy of Cured

Nathan Mattise (@nathanmattise) is always working to perfect his sourdough bagels. He also enjoys bocce, amaro, road trips, and a good playlist.

MARDI GRACIAS

NOLA BRUNCH & BEIGNETS SERVES BIG EASY IN THE ALAMO CITY

WORDS BY KIMBERLY SUTA

In San Antonio, chef Pieter Sypesteyn of NOLA Brunch & Beignets is synonymous with New Orleans-style cuisine. That’s because he grew up there and spent his childhood in his parents’ restaurants.

“That’s where I got my first glimpse into running an independent restaurant. In my home, food was always a big thing, as well as entertainment and hospitality. It was a way of life,” says Pieter. But, where this chef truly fell in love with cooking was at the Art Institute in Orange County. “At that point in my life I needed some structure, and I was able to express myself as an artist through food,” recalls Pieter of his time there.

It was also in California where he met his wife and business partner, Susan Sypesteyn, and they now have a thriving family with four kids — three boys and one girl. After working at the Los Angeles Country Club in Beverly Hills, the couple moved to San Antonio and Pieter continued to learn about the art of fine dining and operations by working at a few now-shuttered yet once renowned restaurants, such as The Grill, Le Reve and Il Sogno.

At that time, food trucks were also gaining notoriety across Texas. In Austin, chef Bryce Gilmore had opened Odd Duck, building a big following out of a trailer producing restaurant-quality food, for instance. “I thought maybe I could do that,” says Pieter, “and show people real New Orleans food out of a truck and see what the response would be.”

Thus, Pieter embarked on his first foray as an entrepreneur and opened Where Y’at food truck in 2012, creating New Orleans-style dishes from the heart and soul and eventually finding a regular home at Alamo Street Eat Bar in Southtown.

“It’s where the world discovered Where Y’at and barbecue shrimp,” he laughs. “It was wild. I learned so much. The food truck was always meant to be a part of our path to get a restaurant. Let’s run it for two years, save money and open a brick and mortar.”

And two years later, to the day, the Sypesteyns signed a lease for a building adjacent to the St. Mary’s Strip and opened The Cookhouse, which featured Pieter’s exceptional take on New Orleans-style fare, including that fingerlicking-good barbecue shrimp and one of my all-time favorite dishes of his, grillades and grits.

Next for the Sypesteyns, just five years after that, came NOLA Brunch & Beignets, which was originally around the corner in a cozy space, but eventually moved into The Cookhouse’s building for more room. It’s fair to say that Pieter kicked off San Antonio’s brunch restaurant trend.

“At the time, there was nowhere that was really a committed brunch spot,” he explains. “So, for NOLA, we wanted to offer a menu that people wouldn’t or couldn’t create at home — an assortment of curated brunch dishes that are just as thoughtful and creative as what we had been doing for dinner. And, of course, there’s beignets.”

Besides the restaurant’s hugely popular dishes like Pieter’s playful take on oysters Rockefeller called Green Eggs and Ham, his fried chicken (glazed with Steen’s Pure Cane Syrup) and beignets, plus a fantastic muffaletta, NOLA also

serves beignets filled with seasonal flavors and a perennial lemon curd.

But, it only gets better! NOLA Brunch & Beignets is thrilled to have just opened at a new location along the Broadway corridor, just south of the Historic Pearl. The new restaurant is more expansive with double the space, and features an outdoor patio, private room for special events and free parking. According to Susan, the new restaurant, which just opened, already feels like home.

The new space captures the essence of New Orleans’ Garden District with an old-world feel and a touch of urban style. It’s welcoming, comforting and fun. It’s a space with a heartbeat. You can see it everywhere you look, from the curated artwork (some made by Pieter, some made by his dad) to the artful dishes.

“I’m excited about everything that this new space will allow us to do. It reopens some creativity and different ways to serve people better,” shares Pieter. “We hope to create a real hub in our community.”

Susan adds, “The culture is so crucial for us, and it’s one of the things we love about this new neighborhood. It’s a very vibrant part of the city that’s very walkable, and we’re really close to the river, the park and other restaurants … these are some of the things we fell in love with and also what we love about New Orleans. It gives our customers a better glimpse of what San Antonio has to offer and speaks to the growth of our brand.”

With the new space next to Woof Gang, too, NOLA is more dog-friendly than ever. The walk-up window makes it easy for dog walkers and other passersby to order some heavily powdered-sugar-dusted beignets and a cup of coffee to go. Plan accordingly, because as Pieter once told me, “You aren’t doing it right if you don’t end up covered in powdered sugar.”

The walk-up window, which will showcase an abridged menu, is also ideal for grabbing a couple of mouthwatering Po’ boys for a quick bite, but you can certainly order from the main menu via their website and have it delivered, too.

Finally, keep an eye out for announcements on specials and themed events taking place throughout the year. Since NOLA now has access to the nearby park, the Sypesteyns are looking forward to reactivating their El Mardi Gras fundraising event to support their nonprofit, Third Coast Charities, which primarily helps constituents in District 1 that need assistance.

Hopefully, downtown residents are a little happier now that we have a taste of authentic New Orleans in the neighborhood! If you see me walking around with errant powdered sugar on my clothes, you’ll know why.

Estate Winery & Vineyard Tasting Room

Fredericksburg Main Street Tasting Room

Wine Tastings & Tours / Elevated Visitor Experiences

Private & Public Events / Chef’s Table Luncheon

beckervineyards.com

Top Left: Susan and Pieter photo by NOLA

Bottom Right: Beignets photo by NOLA

EDIBLE VARIETALS

ATEXAS oussanne

THIS VERSATILE VARIETAL CAPTIVATES WINE LOVERS ACROSS THE STATE

re you adventurous? Do you seek the complex and layered over the straightforward and familiar? If so, roussanne might be a wine with the qualities to romance you. It’s a radiant goldenwhite wine with both aromatic intensity and textural richness that offers a lot to explore for the wine drinker and the winemaker. Here in Texas, roussanne still seems like a less familiar varietal. Yet it’s one that is attracting the attention of local winemakers who aren’t afraid to introduce us to this dynamic varietal and add it to their menus. In several Texas tasting rooms, roussanne has been described to me as a red-wine-lover’s white wine. So, Texas red lovers, rejoice! This is a wine that can be chilled and remains refreshing in the scorching summer months, while still offering a robust mouthfeel.

R oussanne can delight with aromas of ripe stone fruits such as pear and apricot and floral notes like honeysuckle and jasmine on the nose, and then indulge you with notes like honey, almond, apple, brioche, black tea and thyme on the palate. It typically has a medium weight and balanced acidity that allows for freshness and lift — aka easy drinking — and has great potential for aging.

Roussanne comes from the northern part of the Rhône Valley in France. It’s a centuries-old grape that’s one of the key varieties used in the production of white wines coming from Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph AOCs (designated geographic regions of origin with controlled and certified quality standards), and is often blended with marsanne, another white grape variety native to the region. In the southern Rhône, roussanne is a primary component in the white wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While relatively rare outside of France, roussanne is now grown in regions across the world, from Tuscany to Texas — and Texas may be poised to become one of the largest producers of the varietal outside of France, according to some of the Hill Country-based winemakers I spoke with. Since roussanne shines on its own, plays well with other white varietals in blends and is delicious aged in oak barrels, steel tanks or a combination of the two, numerous expressions can be found at Texas wineries. All three winemakers I interviewed for this story —

Jon Leahy at Becker Vineyards in Fredericksburg, Claire Richardson from Uplift Vineyards in Burnet and Benjamin Calais of French Connection Wines in Hye — highlighted this versatility as a quality that makes roussanne appealing to work with.

“ Roussanne, I absolutely love. It does extremely well here … We make three different roussannes. They all taste like roussanne but they are three completely different roussannes,” says Leahy, who was recruited by Becker Vineyards in 2012 to make their wines after working in Napa and Sonoma counties in California. He feels he’s found a great home in the Texas Hill Country and is excited about the possibilities for Texas wine. “The fruit is just wonderful here, the grapes and the people, everything,” he says. “And I love, beyond anything, that Texans love to support Texans … People will support you if you make a great product.”

L eahy aims to make high quality wines with high quality Texas fruit. “You can make really bad wine from great fruit, but you can never make great wine from bad fruit, and there’s very little bad fruit in this state,” he says.

B ecker Vineyards currently offers three roussannes — two with grapes sourced from the High Plains and one from the Hill Country — and an award-winning and super refreshing “RVM” roussanneviognier-marsanne blend. They also have plans to plant roussanne on the Becker estate.

L eahy’s approach to roussanne requires intention and patience. He ages the wine in oak barrels for at least 24 months to capture the flavor of the grapes. Some roussannes are also aged in steel tanks as part of their development. The team at Becker leaves the wine on its lees for the entirety of its life, which gives it antioxidant protection. That creates a “reductive atmosphere” without oxygen, which preserves

roussanne’s floral notes and positions the wine for long-term preservation

in the bottle. You can store it for 10 or more years and still enjoy its innate qualities.

Becker is in the process of expanding its 66-acre Fredericksburg vineyard through a six-year planting initiative. While they already have an extensive and highly regarded portfolio of 44 different wines, they’re committed to doing what works well while continuing to challenge the status quo. “Life would be so boring if you didn’t keep experimenting. You never know where the next ‘Aha!’ moment is going to come from,” Leahy says. This planting initiative puts Becker Vineyards on track to become the largest producer of estate wines in Texas.

“Wine is not a spectator sport or an individual sport,” Leahy emphasizes as he talks about the dedication of Becker’s partners and large team, from the assistant winemaker to the cellar master, from outreach staff to the farmers around the state. Leahy recalls an article he read that estimated it takes an average of 33 people to deliver a glass of wine to you. It’s a statistic that has stuck with him. He emphasizes that when you support Texas wine, you support Texas farmers and their families, and a lot of other neighbors, too.

Rhône variety-focused French Connection Wines in Hye is another winery that champions Texas farmers and grapes. Winemaker and co-owner Benjamin Calais, who also owns Calais Wines, began making roussanne in the early 2000s. He prefers sourcing roussanne made from Tablas Creek clones (Tablas Creek Vineyards in Paso Robles, California brought high-quality roussanne clones to the U.S.) grown in highelevation (3,200 feet-plus) vineyards like those in West Texas mountains, High Plains and Dell City. The climate in those regions contributes to slower maturation of the grapes, which helps preserve their acid and makes for a delightfully complex palate.

This complexity is part of what makes roussanne so versatile and allows it to really showcase a winemaker’s mark. “It’s an interesting variety to work with. It’s a tricky variety. And it’s a blank canvas for winemakers,” Calais explains. His roussanne at French Connection is distinct from Leahy’s at Becker, especially when it comes to mouthfeel.

“We’re going to try to keep as much texture as possible,” says Calais. French Connection Wines has been making roussanne for 15 years and makes a roussanne Reserve every five years or so. They currently offer a 2020 roussanne Reserve and use the varietal as the lead in their signature La Connection white blend. Calais prefers a heavier-style roussanne, closer to what he calls its “home style,” and ages roussanne on its lees for 12 to 18 months in neutral French oak barrels. The Reserve roussanne sits in French oak for about three years. “We don’t always make roussanne the same way, because we understand there’s a lot of different ways we can execute,” says Calais, who believes in adapting his winemaking approach to the grape and its particular yield. Calais, who moved from France to the U.S. for a job in computer engineering, refers to his winemaking journey as a “weekend project that got out of hand.” But now he is in it for the long-haul and envisions building wineries that make some of the best wines around. “We make wines we like to drink and that are age-worthy. And we take our time doing it,” he shares. Unfettered by many of the obstacles wine makers

and growers face and unafraid of the time-consuming winemaking processes, he’s focused on a “practice-makes-perfect” approach. “It’s very important to make wine every year … If you want to get better at it and make the best wine you can, you have to make it every year,” Calais explains. His team will hone in on a varietal and fosters long-term relationships with growers. That laser-focus allows them to work with a grape again and again until they “get it perfect,” making roussanne a varietal that is ideal for Calais and his team. It is reliable, with vines consistently producing great grapes. It allows them a “shot at making the wine every year,” which is part of its appeal. It’s a variety that Calais believes will be produced and enjoyed in Texas for years.

Claire Richardson, winemaker at Uplift Vineyards in Burnet, part of the William Chris Vineyards family of brands, also appreciates roussanne’s reliability. She says that roussanne thrives in our heat and abundance of sunshine. “Climate and weather patterns are two of the biggest challenges of growing grapes in Texas, so to have a grape that can flourish in the conditions we have is a win-win for growers and drinkers,” she says.

According to Richardson, the team at Uplift take a unique approach to growing roussanne. Half of the acreage she works with is situated on a hillside and the other half is on flat ground at the bottom of the hill. The two sections are usually harvested at different times. “The hillside fruit ripens faster and will often be harvested at a higher Brix level [which is a measure of sugar content],” she explains. “The finished wine is characterized by the riper roussanne aromatics of honeycomb and brioche and has a more viscous mouthfeel. Contrary to that, the flat portion of the block produces fruit that is more nuanced, with slightly higher acidity and more delicate aromatics.”

Richardson likes the opportunities for personal expression that this approach provides. “The beauty of harvesting this block in two sections is that I end up having multiple components to work with … The two sections of the block are harvested, fermented, and aged separately until it comes time for blending,” she shares.

Photo courtesy of Uplift Vineyards

WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH

Claire Richardson photo by Dave Capote

Like Leahy and Calais, Richardson is attracted to the chameleon-like quality of roussanne. In the cellar, she employs a variety of fermentation and aging vessels, yeast strains, and winemaking techniques to steer the grape’s versatility into exciting vintages. She primarily ferments and ages roussanne in oak barrels, with the use of 5 to 10 percent new French oak. This July, Uplift Vineyards plans to release a 2023 roussanne and 2023 Lou Adah, a roussanneMarsanne blend.

Roussanne seems to be gaining traction with Texas wine enthusiasts as more people are trying it when they visit local wineries. “People are gravitating toward roussanne, and they are getting to try it and know it here in Texas,” says Leahy, who points out that we have more single-varietal roussanne offerings in Texas than you can find on the West Coast.

“In the last few years, roussanne has gained popularity among consumers in Texas for its texture, complexity, and availability,” says Richardson. “As a lesser-known varietal, it is our job as growers and winemakers to educate our consumers about varieties like roussanne that are well-adapted to our climate and that are delicious, too.”

If it’s your first time trying roussanne, make it a Texas roussanne. There’s no better place to figure out what you like. The laid-back culture of Texas tasting rooms allows you to feel at home and the staff are happy to share their expertise in a way that’s fun and welcoming.

“Wine should not be an intimidating thing,” says Leahy, who encourages us to view wine not as a luxury item but as a way to celebrate life’s daily victories. He says the only two questions we need to answer when it comes to the wine we drink are “Do you like it?” and “Would you have another glass?”

When it comes to Texas roussanne, my own answers are yes and a resounding yes.

PERFECT PAIRINGS: Try a Texas roussanne with these bites and entrées

Becker Vineyards winemaker Jon Leahy loves pairing roussanne with Mediterranean-style grilled chicken and veggies, lobster bisque and wood-fired mushroom pizza. Becker’s marketing director Nichole Bendele, who is WSET Level 2 Certified, recommends sipping on roussanne as a companion to sauteed scallops and wild rice or Peruvian-style ceviche. If you’re looking for something lighter to snack on, you can’t go wrong with a crudité and hummus spread. Add roussanne, and you’re ready for a vibrant and refreshing summer picnic!

Sip on a glass or pick up a bottle of Roussanne or a blend at these Texas wineries and others:

Ab Astris

320 Klein Road Stonewall, 78671 abastriswinery.com

Becker Vineyards 464 Becker Farms Rd. Fredericksburg, 78624 beckervineyards.com

Duchman Family Winery

13308 Ranch to Market Rd. 150 Driftwood, 78619 duchmanwinery.com

French Connection Wines 1197 Hye-Albert Rd. Hye, 78635 frenchconnectionhye.com

Haak Vineyards & Winery 6310 Avenue T. Santa Fe, 77510 haakwines.com

Hilmy Cellars

12346 E. US Hwy 290 Fredericksburg, 78624 hilmywine.com

Hye Meadow Winery 10257 W. US Hwy 290 Hye, 78635 hyemeadow.com

Kuhlman Cellars

18421 E. US Hwy 290 Stonewall, 78671 kuhlmancellars.com

Llano Estacado Winery 3426 E. FM 1585 Lubbock, 79404 llanowine.com

McPherson Cellars 1615 Texas Avenue Lubbock, 79401 mcphersoncellars.com

Pedernales Cellars

2916 Upper Albert Road Stonewall, 78671 pedernalescellars.com

Perissos Vineyard and Winery

7214 Park Rd. 4 W. Burnet, 78611 perissosvineyards.org

Siboney Cellars

3427 US 290 Johnson City, 78636 siboneycellars.com

Signor Vineyards

362 Livesay Lane Fredericksburg, 78624 Signorvineyards.com

Texas Heritage Vineyard

3245 US 290 E. Fredericksburg, 78624 texasheritagevineyard.com

Texas Wine Collective 10354 US 290 Fredericksburg, 78624 texaswinecollective.com

Torr Na Lochs Vineyard & Winery

7055 TX-29 Burnet, 78611 Torrnalochs.com

Uplift Vineyard

William Chris Wine Co. 1411 Co. Rd. 119 Burnet, 78611 upliftvineyard.com

Wedding Oak Winery

316 E. Wallace Street San Saba, 76877

6009B US 290 E. Fredericksburg, 78624

Stacey Ingram Kaleh is a native of the Texas Hill Country. Born and raised in Austin, she lives in Spicewood with her husband, two young daughters and fluffy dog Zeus. She’s been exploring Texas wineries for more than a decade, enjoying great wine, stellar company and scenic views as she learns from local winemakers. Follow her wine adventures on Instagram @TXWineGirl.

Meierstone Vineyards 573 Meier-Stone Rd. Stonewall, 78671 meierstonevineyards.com

229 S. Pierce Burnet, 78611 weddingoakwinery.com

Lone Star Summer

NOTHING IS MORE TEXAS THAN EATING FRESH, LOCAL WATERMELON

WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN

Few foods are more symbolic of summer than watermelons. Ranking third or fourth in the nation for watermelon production, depending on the year, Texas has a hot, sunny climate that is good for growing this luscious, refreshing and versatile fruit. We even have a Watermelon Queen, crowned annually by the Texas Watermelon Association, whose responsibility it is to travel around the state and encourage production and consumption of the fruit.

From the Rolling Plains area, with plenty of sunlight, to the Lower Rio Grande Valley, with its fertile soil, an estimated 42,000 acres across the state are devoted to growing watermelons. Harvests start in April in the Lower Rio Grande Valley. In June and July, it moves to the Winter Garden and East Texas areas, then progresses in August and early fall to the Rolling Plains, Cross Timbers/DeLeon and southern High Plains. Small farms often sell their harvest at roadside stands, while larger farms ship these fresh, juicy melons to cities all over the state such as Houston, San Antonio, Austin and beyond.

I n Luling, watermelons are so popular that the town celebrates with an annual Watermelon Thump Festival.

For four days, residents and visitors can partake in watermelon-based games and activities like seed

spitting, watermelon eating, and a contest for the largest Black Diamond watermelon grown that year. Watermelon “thumping” involves tapping a melon quickly and forcefully with a finger or two a few times in a row. If the watermelon sounds hollow and not high-pitched, that means it should be ripe. A thud or less distinct sound indicates it may not be ready. Throughout the summer, many other Texas towns host watermelon festivals and contests, so if you’re craving some fun based around this refreshing and unique fruit, do a quick online search to find one near you.

Growing watermelons organically can be challenging, because they are susceptible to broadleaf weeds, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt and, of course, pests. Despite these difficulties, many Texas farmers that grow watermelons prioritize sustainability and organic practices. Due to watermelons’ thick rind, pesticides can’t get to

the flesh that you eat, so it is safe to consume non-organic melons; however, the potential health benefits to us and the earth of organic farming in general may encourage you to seek out organic options when possible. Either way, watermelons are not just a sweet and delightful summertime treat — they’re a guilt-free option with many health benefits. Ninety-two percent water, they’re a great source of hydration as well as vitamins and the antioxidant, lycopene.

T he seeds, whether white or black, are safe to consume, despite the old wives’ tale that a watermelon will grow in your stomach. Black watermelon seeds are mature, fertile seeds, which you could plant to grow watermelon. The thinner, more translucent white seeds are immature seeds that are not yet fertile.

S eedless watermelons add to the convenience of taking them on the go as a snack and using it in a wide variety of recipes. They were invented more than 50 years ago. This was achieved by crossing watermelon plants with different numbers of chromosomes, resulting in a sterile (seedless) hybrid.

Left Page:

Left and Right: Photos by Shane Watts of Watts Farm

Top: Photo by Ralph Yznaga

Right Page:

Photo Compilation by Ralph Yznaga

M ost of us just think of watermelons as watermelons, but there are a number of varieties grown in Texas. Look for these at your local markets or grocery stores, or if you have your own garden, you might want to plant some seeds and try your hand at producing your very own melons:

Allsweet: A uniquely flavorful watermelon with a mild sweetness and crisp texture, this variety is juicy and makes a great addition to salads.

Black Diamond: Very popular with Texas farmers, Black Diamond watermelons are relatively easy to grow in large numbers. They’re big and bold in size, flavor, and color with their bright red flesh and deep black-green rinds.

Crimson Sweet: Naturally resistant to fusarium wilt, this variety is also relatively easy to grow in the Texas climate. The dark green rind is striped with a lighter green and may be what many picture when they think of watermelons, though the shape is more round than oblong. As the name indicates, this variety has a particularly high sugar content, making it a refreshing yet satisfying dessert or snack.

Jubilee: The Jubilee is a popular melon with firm, crisp, and brilliant bright red flesh. It has an oblong shape and a light green color with dark green stripes. This variety weighs a whopping 25 pounds or more when mature! Its wilt-resistant properties and impressive size make this variety an appealing choice for gardeners.

Royal Sweet: Royal Sweet watermelons have a rich sweet flavor and juicy texture. While watermelons are sometimes used in salads and savory dishes, some varieties such as this one make for a delightful dessert or refreshing addition to a picnic.

Sugar Baby: This variety is also a great option for satisfying your sweet tooth with a healthy snack. These smaller watermelons are also a bit easier to cut and manage.

A handful of Texas Farms that grow watermelons:

Atkinson Farms 3217 Spring Cypress Road Spring, 77388 @atkinsonfamily_farm

Boggy Creek Farm 3414 Lyons Road Austin, 78702 boggycreekfarm.com

Engel Farms 9885 U.S. Highway 290, Fredericksburg, 78624 @engel-farms

Watts Farm 700 E. Davis Street Luling, TX 78648

Search Watts Farm Luling TX on Facebook

Writer and editor Ashley Brown lives in Wimberley with her family of rescues: a dog, two cats, and two donkeys. In addition to animal welfare, her passion is exploring the Hill Country's natural beauty, small farms, eateries and drinkeries.

Photo by Ralph Yznaga

Exploring the Natural Beauty of Wimberley

Kn own affectionately by locals as “a little bit of heaven,” Wimberley is a charming and popular destination for Texans seeking a fun getaway. With its shops, eateries and drinkeries, the Wimberley Square is often hopping, particularly on the weekends. But the town is also a beautiful “playground” for nature lovers, with ample opportunities to walk or hike, swim, take in gorgeous Hill Country views and even zipline!

One of the most magical elements of Wimberley is the water — from Jacob’s Well and Blue Hole to Cypress Creek and the Blanco River. While there aren’t too many access points for the general public, the beautiful Blanco and its warm, inviting waters are the perfect place to chill out. It’s quite shallow in most spots, so you can enjoy a lazy afternoon just sitting in the water and chatting with friends. If you’re staying in Wimberley, there are countless rental properties along the river with private access; otherwise, you can pay to park at the famous 7A Ranch and head into the river from there. For those seeking a little more action, the 7A also offers kayak rentals.

Cypress Creek, which runs right through downtown, is a slightly more refreshing option. Fed by deep natural springs, the creek’s waters are much colder and deeper. Visitors can opt to simply enjoy the serenity of the creek shore while sipping on a cocktail or fueling up with a delicious meal from places in town such as Creekhouse Restaurant or Chill’z On The Creek (formerly Ino’z).

But if you prefer to get wet, Cypress Falls Swimming Hole is the spot. It’s located on the largest part of the creek surrounded by cliffs and a

waterfall. The swimming hole is owned by Cypress Falls Lodge, whose website includes the interesting fact that when the creek was dredged in 1949, to create a wider swimming area, many Native American artifacts were discovered as this had been a sacred ceremonial site. Wristbands to enjoy the swimming hole for the day range between $6–10, and they also offer boat and tube rentals.

Jacob’s Well is a natural artesian spring that has long attracted visitors for its beauty, uniqueness and geologic significance. Typically releasing thousands of gallons of water a day, the spring serves as the headwaters of Cypress Creek. There’s a sizable parking area and a network of walking/hiking trails, one leading to the 140-foot-deep well — the second largest underwater cave system in Texas. There’s no fee to park, hike or view the well, but reservations and a fee are required to swim when the spring is open for swimming, which is both seasonal and dependent on drought conditions. Historically low water levels — to the point that the water actually stopped flowing — kept the well closed to swimmers in 2023. The actual swimming area is quite small despite its depth, and the water is a constant 68 degrees, so this experience might be more attractive to the more adventurous.

Another highly popular destination is Blue Hole Regional Park. Blue Hole is a natural, spring-fed swimming hole lined and shaded with towering Cypress trees. The whole family can enjoy swimming in crystal-clear water, sunbathing on the grassy lawn and swinging on the famous rope swings. These waters are also quite chilly, which visitors tend to find most refreshing on a summer day. Reservations are required to swim, but the other amenities of the park can be enjoyed for free. The park features well-maintained, dog-friendly hiking trails, sports fields and plenty of quiet spaces for picnics. It’s a great place to walk or jog.

Speaking of walking, if you’re not afraid of walking up steps — 218 to be exact — Old Baldy is a must. Located two-and-a-half miles from the Wimberley Square, in the middle of the neighborhood of Woodcreek, Old Baldy is a hill with an elevation of 1,182 feet. Once you make it to the top, you’ll experience breath-taking 360-degree views of Wimberley Valley. There’s a small flat area of stone at the peak where you can sit and recover from your walk up, enjoying the peace

and quiet looking out over all the activity below.

Another fun way to take in the Hill Country views is ziplining. Wimberley Zipline Adventures is located on 30 acres of open land right in town. Each of the 10 lines — a few with some brief hikes in between — offers a unique experience, including 15-mile views. Some lines are as short as 150 feet, and the longest is 900. On the most exciting one you take a running start, leap off a platform, and soar over the hills. By the sixth or seventh line, gliding through the trees lower to the ground, the feeling is more peaceful than exhilarating. After all, you get to experience the sensation of flying like a bird through the air knowing you’re 100% percent safe and secure (the adventure begins with “flight school,” where you learn all you need to know and are reminded that the equipment you’re using could hold 40,000 pounds of weight).

All of these natural areas offer the chance to observe the local flora and fauna. But if you’re an avid bird watcher, you may want to check out the Patsy Glenn Refuge — a bird sanctuary in the heart of Wimberley.

Next to the Community Center, the refuge features trails, bird feeders, wildflower areas, a chimney swift tower and butterfly garden.

Whether you spend the day bird watching, strolling the banks of the creek, swimming, hiking or zipping over the hills, you may be ready to relax with a glass of wine as the day winds down. There are plenty of places where you can sit and sip while continuing to enjoy the natural beauty of the area. Driftwood Estate Winery, a few miles north of Wimberley on Elder Hill Road just off of Ranch Road 12, will trick you into thinking you’re in Tuscany. You can opt for a wine tasting inside and/or get a glass or bottle and choose your spot on the grassy hillside overlooking the vineyards and pastures. An amazingly peaceful location, you really will feel like you’re in another world.

They close at 6 p.m. so from there, you can head to The Shady Llama, open until 8 p.m. on weekdays and 9 p.m. on weekends. This is an outdoor-only beer garden just north of Wimberley also on Ranch Road 12, serving up a variety of Texas beers and wines. Picnic tables, seating areas and a playground for the kids are scattered about the shaded property that is also home to eight llamas who often show up to check out the goings-on. This is the perfect spot to enjoy a beautiful sunset and close out a well-spent day in the Texas Hill Country.

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