THE LANGUAGE OF Ladino

THE RESTAURANT IS AN HOMAGE TO MOM, AND AN ANCIENT CULTURE

Executive chef and partner of Ladino, Berty Richter, moved to Austin in 2016 after working in New York City for 16 years. Before that, he grew up in Israel and developed a talent and passion for cooking from his mother and grandmother.

“My grandmother and mother spent most of the day in the kitchen, and we would cook together,” he explains. “Eventually, after I finished military service, which is mandatory in Israel, I decided to pursue a culinary career.”

Andrew Weissman’s much lauded, Il Sogno at the Historic Pearl, which shuttered its doors in 2018.

In Austin, he opened up a food truck called Hummus Among US before launching a fast casual concept called TLV. Both were great successes until the pandemic hit, which slowed things down a bit, but also opened up new avenues for growth for Richter.

In 2021, Richter became a partner with the Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group, and the opportunity presented itself for him to take over the former space occupied by chef

“The Pearl wanted to have a concept there that would be more service focused and offer Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food. I wanted to go back and explore my roots and family traditions, because that’s where I got my start,” he says. Here’s where the story gets interesting. If you have not heard the word “Ladino” before, it’s not just an obscure word plucked out of the ethers to slap on the face of a modern restaurant. Ladino actually refers to the unique language spoken by the Judea-Spanish people, called Sephardic Jews, who were exiled from Spain in 1492 during the time of the Crusades and Spanish Inquisition. The Catholic monarchs, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, gave them 24 hours to pack up as much of their belongings as they could and flee or face persecution.

According to Richter, Ladino is now an archaic spoken and written language that is preserved by, perhaps, only 130,000 people in the whole world. Richter is, in fact, one of them.

“The Spanish Jews moved through the Mediterranean by way of the Balkan states, so the language got mixed up with French and Italian, too, but mostly is a mix of Spanish, holidays. It’s something the whole family eagerly awaited each and every year.

Greek, Turkish and Hebrew,” explains Richter. “My family came from Greece, Bulgaria, Turkey and, eventually, Israel.” Of course, this means that Ladino cuisine is equally influenced by all of these countries. Consequently, Ladino’s menu transports guests to all of these different places with varying flavors and ingredients — some you may be familiar with and some that might surprise you. Sure, they have hummus, babaganoush, kebabs and fresh-baked pita bread, but you can bet it’s unlike any you have tried before.

The dish features a white fish carefully poached in a lemon, egg and oil emulsion. Through trial and error, Richter was able to successfully create a modern interpretation of the dish that encapsulates his past and the meaning Ladino holds for him.

“It’s that one-of-a-kind, home-cooked dish that has a special place in my heart, and I wanted to make it special here too.

According to Richter, he uses not only the food, but the music and ambiance to tell the story of that significant migration.

One of the most cherished signature dishes on the menu is called agristada, a modern interpretation of a traditional dish called agristada de pishkado in Ladino. The Greek version of this dish is called avgolemono, which literally means “egg–lemon.”

For Richter, this dish takes him back to his mom’s kitchen. Agristada is a dish that, due to its complexity, is only made twice a year for the high

Based on the reactions of our guests, I think I’ve accomplished that,” he confides.

Rather than the usual big chunks of fish covered in sauce, served cold, Richter uses small pieces of white fish (such as tile and snapper), sourced as locally as possible. He adds two versions of the scrumptious sauce to the plate — one that the fish sits in and a foamy iteration on top. He also incorporates confited onions with herbs as a garnish and finishes with a sun-dried red pepper called Urfa biber.

Ladino may just be the most thoughtful restaurant to celebrate your mom this Mother’s Day. Order the mezas de algeria, a chef-curated, shared dining experience to fully explore the cuisine and get a rare taste of something truly original made with heart, soul and history. Learn more and see menu at landinosatx.com.