Spring 2019: Groundwater by edible New Mexico

edible

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

NEW MEXICO THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO

Groundwater ISSUE 61 · SPRING • APRIL / MAY 2019

NEW LOCATION: 505 CERRILLOS, SANTA FE AT THE LUNA CENTER

radi sh an dr ye.c o m 5 05 .9 3 0 .5 3 25

photos: doug merriam

FA RM I N SPI RED CUISINE

! h c n u r B g n i v r e S w

Charcuterie inspired meat and cheese boards, gourmet toasts, pressed sandwiches, and salads. We feature an approachable wine list and a diverse craft beer selection.

Join us for Happy Hour Mon-Fri 3-6pm, $3 beer & wine.

Brunch Saturdays and Sundays. 115 Harvard SE, Albuquerque · 505-219-2001 · saltandboard.com

GROUNDWATER: APRIL MAY DEPARTMENTS 2

GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook

ON THE COVER 56 TOOLS OF THE TRADE A Vital Solution by Nora Hickey

CONTRIBUTORS

74 #EDIBLENM

LOCAL HEROES

75 SOURCE GUIDE / EAT LOCAL GUIDE

Coyote Cafe, Humble Coffee Company, Urban Rebel Farms, and Silver Leaf Farms

80 LAST BITE

AT THE CHEF'S TABLE

WILD THING

A Steak Different by Gabriella Marks Southwest Gold by Katie DeLorenzo

COOKING FRESH Root to Stem by Stephanie Cameron

FORAGED

BEHIND THE BOTTLE

EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

FERMENTI'S PARADOX

Searching for Sochan by Ellen Zachos New Mexico Wine Guide Coffee by Stephanie and Walt Cameron

edible

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

NEW MEXICO

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO

Your Water Footprint by Kelli Cameron

FEATURES 60 INVISIBLE WATER Groundwater Resource Management and Agriculture in Union County by Kate Zeigler and Barbara Podzemny

64 CARLSBAD’S CATTLE RANCHERS GET FRACKED

Groundwater ISSUE 61 · SPRING • APRIL / MAY 2019

Water infused with cucumbers from Silver Leaf Farms. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Oil and Gas Boom Puts a Way of Life in Jeopardy by Joanna Manganaro Toto

68 CULTURE OF SUBDIVISION Creating an Uncertain Future for the East Mountains by Michael Dax

Brewing in the East Mountains by Robin Babb WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

GRIST FOR THE MILL PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC

Ask any New Mexico farmer or rancher what their biggest concern is for the long-term viability of their business, and it’s likely you will get a one-word answer: water. Water is life, goes the common adage, and here in the drylands of New Mexico, such words never seem more apparent. Although drought conditions have improved this winter, thanks to welcome rain and snowfall, sustained drought over the last several years has left regional surface water levels low. New Mexico’s largest reservoir, Elephant Butte, stands at only eight percent capacity— though this is an improvement from last fall when it stood at three percent. One wet winter and an El Niño-aided spring, experts warn, will likely not be enough to alleviate our current water woes and combat the long-term effects of higher temperatures and drier conditions brought on by climate change. With the desert sky an unreliable source for moisture, New Mexicans have long depended on groundwater to quench their lands and livestock. However, as several stories in this issue demonstrate, these reserves are increasingly under threat from contamination and overuse. We look to the East Mountains, where a well-worn story of development pressure at odds with agriculture has taken a new form. In Carlsbad, we examine how a booming oil and gas industry has transformed a once sleepy ranching town into a hotbed for fracking and controversy. And we learn how efforts to conserve depleting aquifers in Union County are helping locals ensure that their multigenerational farms and ranches will be in operation for generations to come. We also explore how a startup in Cloudcroft is creating better water management solutions for rural ranchers through solar technology. And we look at how using groundwater has presented limitations but also opportunities for a local brewery tapping into the unique flavors of the mineral-rich aquifer beneath the Sandias. Because water affects so many facets of food production, in these pages we can only skim the surface of a handful of water issues in our state. But we hope these stories illuminate why groundwater is precious and needs our careful stewardship. As the well-documented case of the Kirtland Air Force Base fuel spill illustrates, the impacts of water contamination are incredibly costly, lasting, and far reaching. We encourage you to be proactive in protecting this vital resource and, with this issue of edible, raise a clear, half-full glass to the source of life beneath us.

Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook

COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATORS Natalie Donnelly and Gina Riccobono

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Joshua Hinte

VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron

SALES AND MARKETING Kate Collins, Melinda Esquibel, and Gina Riccobono

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-375-1329 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLENM.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible New Mexico six times a year. We distribute throughout New Mexico and nationally by subscription.

Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook, Editors

Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at Courier Graphics Corporation Phoenix, Arizona

WATER ACTION ALERT: Do you own property in the Rio Grande valley? If so, you can vote in the Middle Rio Grande Conservancy District elections on June 4. The Middle Rio Grande Conservancy district manages our Rio Grande waters for agriculture, flood control, wildlife, recreation, and more. Having the voice of farmers on this board is critical. Learn about the candidates at mrgcd.org. Consider voting for an irrigator! 2

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

FOOD. FARM. FESTIVAL.

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PASSION IN FOOD

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CONTRIBUTORS

ROBIN BABB Robin Babb is the Food + Drink editor at the Alibi. She loves writing about the farmers and ranchers of New Mexico and the particular environmental issues they face. When she's not writing, she's usually in either the kitchen or the mountains, getting lost and enjoying it. STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible in their backyard. Today Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico. WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton is editor of edible New Mexico. He recently completed his PhD in history at the University of New Mexico, with a dissertation examining the cultural history of twentieth-century agriculture in the Southwest. He owns and manages Leafwater Farm, a small vegetable farm in northern New Mexico. CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral candidate at the University of New Mexico, an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review, and editor of edible New Mexico. On Saturdays, you can find her selling Vida Verde Farm produce at Albuquerque's Downtown Growers' Market. Follow her farm life on Instagram @vidaverdefarmabq and @candolin MICHAEL J. DAX Michael J. Dax lives in Santa Fe and writes about environment and culture in the American West. He is the author of Grizzly West: A Failed Attempt to Reintroduce Grizzly Bears in the Mountain West (2015). KATIE DELORENZO Katie Delorenzo is a conservationist, passionate hunter, aspiring home cook, and the Southwest chapter coordinator for Backcountry Hunters & Anglers, a nonprofit supporting wild public lands, waters, and wildlife. From hosting ladies nights at her local archery shop to helping novices harvest their first big game animal, her free time is spent mentoring new hunters and sharing the gospel of an outdoor lifestyle. 4

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

NORA HICKEY Nora Hickey is a writer and teacher living in Albuquerque. Her work has appeared in Narrative, Guernica, DIAGRAM, and other journals. She podcasts with City on the Edge and teaches at the University of New Mexico. JOANNA MANGANARO TOTO Joanna Manganaro Toto is a freelance writer and designer of the jewelry line, Sonámbulo. Before returning to her home state of New Mexico in 2014, she worked in fashion in New York City for many years. She is thrilled to be back! In her spare time, Joanna loves scouring estate sales and thrift stores with her husband, uncovering exciting vintage finds. Follow her on Instagram via @ howdycimarron. GABRIELLA MARKS Gabriella Marks is a Santa Fe–based shooter, writer, and eater of food with passionate loyalty and gratitude for her local farmers, chefs, and eating companions. BARBARA PODZEMNY Barbara Podzemny and her family have farmed the land around Amistad and Sedan for generations. She also served as the Northeastern SWCD District Manager for many years and has been an integral part of conservation efforts in Union County. ELLEN ZACHOS Ellen Zachos is the author of seven books, including The Wildcrafted Cocktail and Backyard Foraging: 65 Familiar Plants You Didn’t Know You Could Eat. She also works with RemyUSA, teaching foraged mixology workshops across the US for The Botanist gin. Zachos shares recipes and tips about foraging at backyardforager.com. KATE ZEIGLER Kate Zeigler is a free-range consulting geologist who works in rural New Mexico, Colorado, and Oklahoma on groundwater resource management for farms and ranches. She was raised in Texas and completed her graduate school education in New Mexico. She is the owner and senior staff geologist at Zeigler Geologic Consulting, a woman-owned small business based in Albuquerque.

THE GREAT U N K N OW N

Artists at Glen Canyon and Lake Powell

Mark Klett, Rebecca Solnit, and Bryon Wolfe, Drowned River (detail), 2018, pigment prints on aluminum panels. Courtesy of the Center for Creative Photography, University of Arizona.

SINCE THE TIME of its first inhabitants, Glen Canyon on the Colorado River has inspired people and especially artists. Highlighting artistic responses from ancient to contemporary, the exhibition offers a visual journey across the canyon, the dam, and the lake while touching on socio-cultural issues including land and water use. — THROUGH SEPTEMBER 15, 2019 —

107 W. Palace Ave., Santa Fe, NM 87501 · #nmartmuseum

505-476-5072

· @newmexicoartmuseum

nmartmuseum.org |

· @nmmuseumofart

LOCAL HEROES An edible Local Hero is an exceptional individual, business, or organization making a positive impact on New Mexico's food systems. These honorees nurture our communities through food, service, and socially and environmentally sustainable business practices. Edible New Mexico readers nominate and vote for their favorite local chefs, growers, artisans, advocates, and other food professionals in two dozen categoriesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including this year's new Innovator award. In each issue of edible, we feature interviews with a handful of the winners, allowing us to get better acquainted with them and the important work they do. Please join us in thanking these Local Heroes for being at the forefront of New Mexico's local food movement.

Coyote Cafe AN INTERVIEW WITH QUINN STEPHENSON, COYOTE CAFE & ROOFTOP CANTINA, OWNER BEST RESTAURANT, SANTA FE Photos by Douglas Merriam

Left: Chef Eduardo Rodriguez. Right: Owner Quinn Stephenson.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Left: Chile Morita Mexican White Prawns. Right: Lobster Taco with hoja santa tortilla and squash blossom.

Coyote Cafe is one of Santa Fe’s most celebrated restaurants, and is often credited with defining modern Southwest cuisine. Originally founded by chef Mark Miller, Coyote has remained relevant and revered under the guidance of current owner Quinn Stephenson. Stephenson says, “I love great food, love great wine, love a well-made cocktail, and I absolutely appreciate great hospitality.” All of these are readily available at Coyote Cafe. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? I’m a born-and-raised New Mexican, and have never had a job out of the restaurant business. I started at sixteen, and just celebrated forty. I began in high school as a dishwasher, moved on to a busser, runner, barback, bartender, bar manager, assistant general manager, general manager, partner, and, finally, owner. I fell in love with the business as a whole and I really liked that ninety-nine percent of guests walked into the experience excited and happy to be there. I started to appreciate food and wanted to learn more and more. I took every opportunity I could to advance and did so successfully by being respectful, hard working, and good at my job. I just celebrated twenty years at Coyote Cafe, which marked half my life, though I’ve also worked at Geronimo and had the pleasure of opening Radish and Rye. I got where I am today because of perseverance, passion, foresight, and willpower. In my opinion, it’s not a sprint, it’s a marathon; it takes time to be successful. 8

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

Coyote Cafe is such a legendary institution in Santa Fe. How do you keep it fresh and interesting while honoring what people have always loved about it? I have always been humble in knowing what came before me and I have consciously tried to be the best steward of the brand I can be. I try to strike a balance between honoring tradition and legacy while also giving a modern edge to things. I think travel is key; it is important to see what other people in other markets are doing successfully. What is Southwestern cuisine in 2019? Our awesome Chef Eduardo Rodriguez always gets me excited when he gets excited. He genuinely exemplifies what we are trying to accomplish with our food, which is modern Southwestern cuisine. He often travels to Mexico and is always experimenting with new ideas and recipes. We are modernizing the historical recipes and one of the easiest ways to do that is through presentation. For example, if Chef plates a taco or a tamal, let’s just say it’s not going to look like any of the traditional looking tacos or tamales out there. Where does Santa Fe currently rank among the top food cities in the US? What about our food scene excites you? What would you like to see more of? On a daily basis, I hear guests say that they think Santa Fe has one of the best food scenes around. Food is one of the reasons people come to Santa Fe and I hope that never changes! I find myself admiring

food cities like New York, San Francisco, and Los Angeles just because of the sheer volume of outstanding restaurants within them. What excites me about our food scene is the authentic nature of New Mexican cuisine. It is truly unique and you can’t find the good stuff anywhere but here. Another exciting factor about Santa Fe in general is that it’s a brand that’s recognized nationwide and this includes the food. Not a lot of cities can say they share that same identity recognition. I’d like to see more great lunch spots, and a late night food scene would be nice. What is a local food issue that is important to you? A food issue that’s important to me is for our community to support local farmers at every opportunity. They are unsung heroes. If you follow local food from seed to plate, the amount of work, commitment, and passion involved is incredible. I think they deserve an endless amount of gratitude; they inspire my endless appreciation and awe for what they choose to do every day in order to serve our community in a very important way. Do you have a food philosophy? I know that I am blessed, and I try to be grateful every day because I realize that I have a relationship with food that many others may not have. Food is adventure and pleasure. It gives me purpose and excites me. At times it’s an absolute luxury. It drives my travel experiences. It brings me nourishment and happiness on a daily basis. For me, food is life. What are you most proud of? Started from the bottom. Now we are here. Personally, that I had the willpower and perseverance to accomplish what I knew was possible in my career, and that I have a life partner who believes in me and loves me. Professionally, the culture that is in place at Coyote as a workplace. Every single person who calls Coyote their home away from home is handpicked and treated with the highest level of respect. Coyote is not a corporation, it’s not micromanaged, and there are no posers that work here. The culture and comradery that exists is second to none. We all genuinely have a good time together. There’s a lot of love. How do you stay connected with the community? We go out to eat ourselves in order to support other restaurants, we participate in most food events, and we love going to the farmers market! Also, we just hosted our annual benefit dinner for the Santa Fe Animal Shelter, where one hundred percent of food sales are donated to the shelter. This year we raised nearly seven thousand dollars. Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers? Don’t light a fire under them, light a fire within them.

DISCOVER SWEETWATER SUPPER Tuesday through Saturday · 5 - 9pm 1512 Pacheco Street · Santa Fe sweetwatersf.com · 505.795.7383

132 W Water, Santa Fe, 505-983-1615, coyotecafe.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

LOCAL HEROES

Humble Coffee Company AN INTERVIEW WITH MARK BAKER, PROPRIETOR BEST BEVERAGE ARTISAN, NON-ALCOHOLIC Photos by Stacey M. Adams

Mark Baker, proprietor at Humble Coffee in downtown Albuquerque.

Humble Coffee owner Mark Baker was born and raised in Dallas and moved to Albuquerque after college in the nineties because he was drawn to the Southwest's weather and attitude. As a practicing architect, Baker eventually roamed to Oakland and Venice Beach, where he lived for many years and where he first became aware of third wave coffee. But he and his wife Nancy missed their lives in Albuquerque and moved back to put roots down for good in 2002. Today, Baker is owner of Humble Coffee Company, principal of Baker A+D, partner in High and Dry Brewing, a real estate investor, landlord, and a real estate developer. Baker says, “I wear all of these hats simultaneously, 24/7, and therefore need a great team to execute the mission of Humble, which is to provide world-class coffee in a friendly atmosphere. I have a team of twelve talented baristas led by 10

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

general manager Tony Solis. He originally came aboard as a barista and, through years of hard work, has worked his way to the top of the organization.” How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? Humble was born almost by accident. Originally, it was a desire to bring third wave coffee to Albuquerque, and more importantly, right next door to my architecture studio! At the very beginning, we thought of it as our glorified break room, but then suddenly it took off and people we didn't know began descending on the place. I quickly realized I had a tiger by the tail and we needed to double down on Humble. We bought the best grinders, brewers, and espresso machine we could afford. We worked with a local roaster (Prosum) to select

1301 Cerrillos Rd ■ Santa Fe, NM 87505 ■ (505) 557-6654 ■ www.galleryethnica.com

Left: Latte in the making. Right: Hand-crafted latte art.

our favorite single-origin beans and dial in our custom roasts. And the little coffee spot named Humble just kept on growing. We share the state motto of New Mexico, Crescit Eundo, or It grows as it goes. Over the years, we have continued to improve and grow, adding two interior expansions, tripling the size, and adding a back patio to the original location. We’ve even opened a second location downtown. Humble specializes in single-origin espresso and brews. Why should consumers care about this distinction? We love this beautiful bean. (It’s actually not a bean at all, but a seed from the center of the coffee fruit, but I digress.) We love how it is grown in so many places across the globe and how the soil and weather of each place gives the coffee a unique, distinct flavor. At Humble, you’ll find single-origin (read: not a blend) coffees from Ethiopia, Peru, Rwanda, and Brazil at the moment. We celebrate the variety in coffee and enjoy sharing this with our customers. Our local roaster, Prosum, sources the beans directly from the farmers and they have personal relationships with them; they visit the farms and verify that the coffee is being harvested naturally and that the laborers are treated fairly. It’s important to Humble that the entire process, from farm to cup, meets our core values. Do you consider yourself an “artisan” and how do you define it? All of our baristas are true artisans who are trained by Tony Solis and our quality control manager, Taylor Vittitow. Here’s how Tony sees it: “Every drink at Humble is crafted by hand. Just the espresso alone requires so much attention to detail. For example, grind, dose, tamp, temperature, and time are all important factors that affect the nose, flavor, and mouth feel of a pull. And now consider a latte or cappuccino, for instance, the variation abounds. When all of these 12

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

fine-tuned details come together, you’re not just getting a latte, you’re getting something that was hand curated specifically for you.” Why did you select the downtown Albuquerque location and how can Humble’s presence lend itself to the revitalization of the downtown business district? We believe in Albuquerque and we want to do everything within our power to grow and improve our town. We have become champions of the downtown revitalization because we realize how important it is to have a vibrant, safe, and eclectic downtown to retain and attract young people to our city. What is a local food issue that is important to you? Why? Two issues important to Humble are that coffee farmworkers are paid well and treated in an ethical manner. This is why we are proud that our roaster practices direct trade and personally verifies the working conditions on the farms. And secondly, local local local! We know the stats about local business and how so much more of the gross receipts go right back into the local economy. When you spend your money at a local business, more money stays in New Mexico and helps our economy grow so that we can fund important things like improving public schools, fighting homelessness, attracting new business, and providing social services. Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers? Thank you very much for selecting us as the Beverage Artisan, NonAlcoholic Local Hero. It means a lot to us. 4200 Lomas NE and 505 Central NW, Albuquerque, humblecoffeeco.com

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LOCAL HEROES

Urban Rebel Farms AN INTERVIEW WITH JEROME BACA AND JOEY JACQUES BEST FARM, SANTA FE Photos by Stacey M. Adams

Joey Jacques and Jerome Baca of Urban Rebel Farms.

Urban Rebel Farms is a locally owned, Santa Fe–based, potted veganic farm. Established in 2016, Urban Rebel Farms began developing a microgreen farm that focused on growing a superior product, reliability, and always moving toward greater sustainability. Currently, Urban Rebel produces living potted veganic microgreens for chefs and locals who shop at the Santa Fe Farmers Market. They say that the “integrity of our product is evident in the longevity that our customers get out of our product.” Urban Rebel prides itself on being “a reliable farm that has developed a microgreen program that is perpetually in motion. We plant and harvest every day so that our customers can rely on us to deliver Monday through Saturday.” How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? We (Jerome and Joey) were longtime friends walking separate paths. Jerome, in 2016, was managing an all seasons gardening supply store. This 14

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time allowed him to discover his love of plants and provided him the material to gain a knowledge of indoor gardening that was foundational for our business. Joey had just recently graduated from UNM with a philosophy and economics degree and was preparing to continue his education when we had this crazy idea to begin to farm microgreens. We made a full commitment to the development of a small business and, with a limited amount of space, we set out to produce a product that could be unmatched in quality. Hours upon hours were spent researching not only how to grow microgreens, because we had never done it before, but how to navigate the governing bodies that give the green light for a new business to do commerce. Initially, production was slow and our method was more than flawed. Deliveries started with a little red cooler in hand and a Volkswagen Rabbit as the means of transportation. However, with determination we developed a veganic potted method that would allow us to produce a living product that exudes integrity.

.Welcome Cocktail

.Tea Service

.Tea Sandwiches

.Savories

.Currant Scones

.Sweets

Pimm’s Cup Lavender lemonade Signature Los Poblanos Blend provided by Tea.o.graphy Watercress & citrus-ricotta Smoked trout Roast beef & horseradish Mini spring vegetable quiche Mushroom & sausage pasties Raspberry jam Devonshire cream

MaY 19, 2019, 1-3Pm S La QuInTa GrAnD PoRtAl Escape for an afternoon and come celebrate the annual blooming of the historic gardens at Los Poblanos. Gather on the Greely Lawn and enjoy a Pimm’s Cup or Lavender Lemonade as the Tea Party begins. After an introduction by our expert Farm & Landscape Manager, enjoy an exquisite tea service on owner and founder, Penny Rembe’s personal collection of fine china. Delight in sweet and savory treats on the Grand Portal while taking in the stunning East Lawn and Gardens and magnificent views of the Sandia Mountains. Conclude your experience with a private walk through the grounds, making sure to stroll through the formal Spanish-style Greely Rose Garden, designed in 1932 by Rose Greely, a pioneer female landscape artist. And finally, wander into the Farm Shop to witness a live seasonal distillation and learn how we create our wonderful essential oils and hydrosols that are the foundation for our organic, artisanal products. We’ll treat you to a small lavender gift to take memories of the farm home with you. Tickets and additional information available at lospoblanos.com/events-calendar.

Lemon curd tarts with raspberries Chocolate-lavender trufﬂe served with Gruet Demi-Sec

All pricing is inclusive of food, beverages, tax and gratuity. Alternatives to alcoholic beverages will be available. Menu is subject to change, no substitutions. Online reservations are required.

Complete your experience with a night at the Inn. Contact the Inn directly at 505-344-9297 and mention “Afternoon Tea Party” to book your stay at a special 20% off rate. Some restrictions may apply.

Sarah Ellefson via The Perfect Hideaway

ShOp ThE FaRm.

A GaRdEn EsCaPe & AfTeRnOoN TeA

Microgreens growing at Urban Rebel Farms.

Tell us a bit about your growing process.

in high demand was exactly what we needed for our limited space.

Jerome developed a plant-based tea blend, that over time has been slightly modified, to inoculate our medium, coir (coconut husk). The decision to use coir rather than soil was made for a couple of reasons. First, coir is a plant-based material that has an amazing ability to pull moisture throughout a given potted plant, so we are less likely to see pools of water that can lead mold growth. Secondly, we wanted to ensure our customers that they would not have to worry about crosscontamination of manures or other animal byproducts traditionally used in soils to feed plants.

What is a local food issue that is important to you, and what would you like to see done about it?

After the coir is inoculated, we are ready to plant. We currently carry about thirty varieties of microgreens, each of which has a specific weight and method of planting in our 10x10-inch trays. Planting is a daily event that has slowly been developed to be more efficient over the course of two years through careful observation and experimentation. What are some of the challenges specific to growing microgreens? What are the advantages? The greatest challenge to growing microgreens is growing microgreens. Just when you think you have it all figured out, some new problem will arise. Growing microgreens indoors is essential if you want to produce perpetually. However, growing indoors comes with its own difficulties, such as humidity, temperature, sufficient lighting, sufficient air flow. Any of these problems can mean the difference between a healthy tray or a dead tray. Sometimes you are graced with an ability to have a control group when experimenting, and other times it is impossible. If a control group is not in the cards, then any little change can be to the detriment of our entire crop, over one thousand trays at any given time. The greatest advantage we have experienced with growing microgreens is the ability to grow vertical. Vertical growing allowed us to think of a 220-square-foot room as a 1600-cubic-foot room. A small product 16

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I truly believe that one of the greatest problems that we face as a society is access and knowledge of the benefits to eating fresh, locally sourced food. There are already great programs like the Double-Up Food Bucks program that helps those on food assistance get quality local food. However, I would also like to see more food education for our youngest members of society. Our expected life expectancy has been going down and I believe that it is due in great part to the lack of food knowledge, the benefits of eating healthy, and the harm a poor diet can do to the body. Also, sourcing local food helps give a boost to the local economy. Describe your perfect day off. We are very blessed to have such supportive wives and children. Any time that we have away from work we like to spend with them. What's next for Urban Rebel Farms? Urban Rebel Farms is moving into the production of edible flowers and baby vegetables, all grown indoors in veganic no-till beds, as well as further expansion of the production of microgreens. We started growing in a 1600-cubic-foot space and are now currently moving into 36,000-cubic-foot space. This will allow us to diversify our crops. Obviously, initially space was an issue. The future is bright and filled with many ideas that we know we can bring to fruition. It will just take a little time. Is there anything else you would like to share with edible readers? We would love to thank all of the edible community of New Mexico for supporting local growers. We could never grow without you. urbanrebelfarms.com

visit our creative community more than 100 artists minutes from Santa Fe

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Growers of Quality Plants Full selection of edibles, annuals, perennials, shrubs, fruit and shade trees. 9515 4th Street NW, Albuquerque 505-898-3562 | alamedagreenhouseabq.com

Vote

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For Middle Rio Grande Conservancy District preview gallery open saturday-sunday, 9am-5pm opening reception friday, may 17, 5-7pm eldorado community center 1 hacienda loop

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Election day June 4, 2019 Keep farms represented on the MRGCD Vote for a farmer and irrigator!

Thank you to our generous underwriters: Eldorado Living Magazine, Graphic Sky Printing, Ion Solar, and Ultimate Eyecare Santa Fe.

Fostering future generations of farmers Keeping the valley green for farms, wildlife and recreation Supporting family farms of all sizes Smart, efficient and fair water distribution Visit mrgcd.com for voting sites & details. FB @glenndugginsnm

LOCAL HEROES

Silver Leaf farms AN INTERVIEW WITH AARON AND ELAN SILVERBLATT-BUSER, CO-OWNERS BEST FARM, ALBUQUERQUE Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Aaron and Elan Silverblatt-Buser of Silver Leaf Farms.

Silver Leaf Farms grows USDA Certified Organic and pesticide-free vegetables in Corrales for local farmers markets, fine restaurants, premium grocers, and schools located in the Albuquerque/Santa Fe area. Silver Leaf is owned by brothers Aaron and Elan Silverblatt-Buser. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? We both grew up in New Mexico and have always found meaning and satisfaction from working with our hands as well as being involved in the community. We have had different paths to get to where we are: Aaron has an MBA from UNM and Elan has a background in plant molecular genetics and has worked internationally in climate change/ food security research, as well as in renewable energy development. Silver Leaf has grown exponentially in the last few years. To what do you attribute your success? We always joke that over the last ten years we have probably killed more plants than ninety-nine percent of the population. That aside, we are constantly experimenting and trying not to make the same mistake 18

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three times. At the end of the day, farming is a labor of love and we think this Beatles lyric fits with farming: “In the end, the love you take is equal to the love you make.” There is no way that we would have been able to do what we have done so far without the love and support from our community—customers, electricians, neighbors, family, and friends. Our entire team is totally committed to producing the highest quality vegetables possible. We take a lot of pride in our work, and the end result is a reflection of our commitment to quality and flavor. Tell us a bit about your hydroponic growing process. What are the advantages and challenges of growing this way? Many people think that hydroponic growing is a new process for growing plants, but people have actually been growing this way for a long time. The hanging gardens of Babylon were a hydroponic operation! Most of our production is in the field, but the hydroponic greenhouse side of our production allows us to grow amazing produce every day of the year. This is great in New Mexico when our seasons can be so intense. As a result we can keep our core employees with us through the winter and can provide a local source of leafy greens to

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our community. These advantages don’t come without challenges. We have to monitor the growing conditions daily or small problems can become big ones in a hurry. However, now that we are over the steep learning curve, we can proudly say that each head of lettuce only uses around one gallon of water in our hydroponic system compared to eighty gallons of water that would be needed to grow the same head of lettuce in the field. What do you think is the biggest challenge facing farmers in northern New Mexico? What would you like to see done about it? As growers in the Middle Rio Grande Valley, we are lucky that our community is active in wanting to feed themselves with high quality and nutritious food. Many farmers are not this lucky. With climate/ land/water issues aside, we will no longer have a market to sell our produce if our community stops caring about quality or if our growers stop producing the best that they can. If our local support disappears, we will all have to start competing on cost with non-local produce (Mexico and California, for example) and we will lose. Keep your dollars in the hands of your local farmers! Buy local! What is the best part of being business partners with your brother? What’s the worst? The best part is that while we have a common vision, we both bring different skill sets and perspectives to the table. We also have known each other our whole lives and have a trust that is hard to create outside of family. The hardest part is when we have major disagreements over the way things should be done. While we are both stubborn, we have open minds and will go along with whatever plan seems to be the most logical in the end. Ultimately, it’s important not to 20

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take things personally and let disagreements affect our relationship as brothers. I think we do a pretty good job of that. Tell us a bit about the farm community in Albuquerque and Corrales. What makes it unique? One of the coolest parts of the farm community is how old it is. The history of farming in Corrales dates back centuries, it is actually much older than California agriculture. Growing in a desert climate means that access to water from the Rio Grande has really shaped how these communities were developed. This obviously can create problems, but at the same time, we have a very supportive community that really tries to help one another. What’s a memorable dish that a local chef has made using your produce? We have had tons of great meals at the restaurants we sell to, but the best is having a customer surprise us with pickles or a meal they made from our produce at the farmers market. Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers? Although we are the face of the business, we couldn’t accomplish what we do without our staff. People always ask us how we can get so much work done, and the truth is that it’s only possible because we have a committed and dedicated team. Keeping our employees happy is something that is important to us from both a business and personal perspective. We are proud to say that we only hire staff at a living wage and don’t rely on intern labor. We now have our first employee who will be with us for three seasons and several who are returning for their second. eatsilverleaf.com

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AT THE CHEF'S TABLE

A Steak Different MARKET STEER, MODERN TAKE ON THE CLASSIC STEAKHOUSE Story and Photos by Gabriella Marks

Cowboy Ribeye with the sauce flight.

Partner that chef with Kristina Goode, co-owner and general manager, who is truly dedicated to the fine art of front-of-house hospitality, and we have a modern take on the classic steakhouse.

And they know what they like. The restaurant features one hundred percent prime grade meat, the highest quality of beef. Meat is graded based on a combination of marbling, which is flecks of fat speckled within meat that adds flavor, and maturity. Younger beef produces the most tender meat. Less than two percent of beef raised within the US earns top prime designation. Through intensive research, Market Steer is able to source their beef from only two ranches: 44 Farms of Texas, and Meyer Company Ranch in Montana. While they would eventually like to feature New Mexico growers as well, the challenge lies in production volume, finding a ranch that can keep up with their high demand.

It’s not their first rodeo. After meeting in the Dallas food scene, Crook and Goode teamed up for the critically acclaimed Steakhouse 316 in Aspen. Market Steer in Santa Fe is different. They’ve taken their combined decades of experience and opened their own restaurant, one of the very few female-owned and -run steakhouses ever, anywhere.

Crook’s preferred aging process is another point of distinction. In the aging process, the natural enzymes break down hard connective tissue, resulting in a more tender cut. She prefers wet aging, wherein cuts are aged in their own juices, yielding a subtler flavor with the same tenderness. In dry aging the evaporation of liquid creates an

“You like what you like.” Words of wisdom from Market Steer chef and co-owner Kathleen Crook. A big cabernet with your sea bass? Rosé all winter? Why not be true to your own appetites? It’s a statement very in character from a no-nonsense chef whose pedigree—raised by cattle ranchers in Artesia, World Champion Breakaway Roper on the national circuit, classically trained at Le Cordon Bleu—uniquely qualifies her to run a steakhouse.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

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AT THE CHEF'S TABLE

Co-owners Kristina Goode and Kathleen Crook

Left: Salt-cured egg yolks, which are shaved onto the steak tartar (right) served with crĂ¨me fraiche and beef fat crackers.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

intense concentration of flavor she finds too umami. “I like my beef to taste like beef!” These deliberate decisions, to use nearly single sourced, wetaged prime, culminate in an altogether different kind of steak— a steak different. Not only is the taste distinctive; servers advise diners that their medium or medium rare may not look like what they are familiar with, because prime meat holds its color more than other grades. That steak different may be more red than they are used to, even at matching internal temperatures. Little touches like that, such as setting a diner’s expectations even for one of the more subtle aspects of the meal, reflect an attention to detail in the front of the house that matches the kitchen. This is Goode’s domain, and she is meticulous in her management. Laughing, she explains, “We don’t take ourselves that seriously, but we take our business very seriously.” It’s a caliber of service rooted in love and respect for hospitality, not just as a practical matter, but as an art. And good service means not only serving diners well, but serving the servers, too. When they decided to open their own place, Crooke and Goode were committed to creating a good working environment. They cultivate that culture by focusing on it as part of the regular routine. Goode says, “Our biggest thing is that we’re good to our people, so that they have buy-in. We make sure that we’re constantly doing continued education and getting them excited about upcoming food trends or our meat program. Every day we’re doing something different, whether it’s a wine tasting or something from the menu, so it’s fresh in their minds, because it’s important for us to not be stagnant as well.” The funny thing is, all of that rigor from sourcing to serving ultimately creates an experience that is neither stuffy nor stiff. As service opens, the mood is as light and sunny as the dining room itself. Situated at the corner of Water and Don Gaspar, with glass windows running the length of each side, the room feels expansive, and with views of some of historic Santa Fe’s most lively streets, urban in a way that few places here are. You can’t read a book by its cover, but you can certainly read a restaurant by its menu. “What the Duck”? This place has a sense of humor. “Cauliflower Steak with vegetable succotash, goat cheese and leek fondue with pecan pesto”? Vegetarians deserve something more exciting and satisfying than uninspired pasta and sautéed veg. “Sea Bass Cassoulet with Anasazi beans, elk, venison, and cornbread crumble?” Classic French cuisine with a New Mexico sense of place. “Sauce Flight?” This is about tasting and sparking curiosity in your culinary palette. Why get a steak au poivre with a one dimensional pepper note when you can dip your prime cut between eight, from horseradish caramel to roasted fresno chimichurri? Crook and Goode know what they like, and go far more than just one extra mile to bring it to Market Steer. Sound like something you’d like, too? We thought so. 210 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, 505-992-6354 marketsteersteakhouse.com

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WILD THING

Southwest Gold THE INSPIRING RECOVERY OF GILA TROUT Story and Photos by Katie DeLorenzo

Gila trout have luminous gold bodies.

New Mexico has two native trout species, the Gila trout and our state fish, the Rio Grande cutthroat. Gila trout have luminous gold bodies adorned with copper gill covers and, often, a faint pink stroke at the midline. Their native habitat is the Gila River and its coldwater tributaries. In recent times, habitat loss due to a variety of natural and human-caused factors, including drought, diversions, and wildfire, has jeopardized their existence. Their survival became so precarious that Gila trout were listed federally as an endangered species from 1967 to 2006. The recent Gila trout story is one of challenges, triumph, and cautious optimism. After the devastating Whitewater Baldy fire, fish had to be evacuated to a hatchery before toxic ash caused die-offs in seventy-five percent of occupied Gila trout streams. The successful evacuation of fish from different lineages was critical to ensuring future genetic diversity. Five recognized lineages of Gila trout, including Main Diamond, South Diamond, Spruce Creek, Whiskey Creek, and 26

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the recently added Iron Creek, are propagated at the Mora National Fish Hatchery with plans to restock historic habitat. Thanks to the ongoing efforts of the US Fish and Wildlife Service, the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish, the US Forest Service, and others, Gila trout recovery is a testament to the effectiveness of interagency collaboration. Since 2006, Gila trout have been down-listed to threatened with a provision that allows for limited recreational fishing in specific waterways. There are close to 11,350 Gila trout onsite at the Mora hatchery for broodstock development. Annually, about twenty-five thousand fish are stocked and around one hundred thousand eggs are transferred to the wild and other hatcheries. In the wild, abundance is measured in stream miles occupied. With the addition of Whitewater Creek there are now one hundred and fourteen miles of occupied habitat with a recovery goal of one hundred and seventy-three miles of occupied habitat.

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WILD THING

Platform for cooking trout woven out of green willow branches.

It may seem counterintuitive that fishing for Gila trout is encouraged. In reality, the opportunity to catch such an extraordinarily unique species drives public awareness and conservation support. A portion of money spent on state fishing licenses and taxation on tackle from the Dingell-Johnson Act is earmarked for Gila trout conservation, and, along with other federal agency wildlife funds, is essential to this restoration effort. According to Mora National Fish Hatchery Project Leader Nathan Wiese, “Gila trout recovery efforts have succeeded to the point that limited harvest is allowed. Removing some by angling fish helps biologists confirm that populations are replenishing themselves with natural spawning and provides a wonderful shore lunch. This is a great time to be a Gila trout angler!”

CAMPFIRE TROUT Serves 2

Knowing how to cook fresh fish perfectly over an open fire is a great skill to master. The delicate meat easily takes on flavor from spices and wood smoke. When gathering wood for the fire, alder, mesquite, and oak are good choices. Avoid resinous wood like pines and juniper because they may impart a turpentine-like flavor. Once you have an even bed of hot coals, you’re ready to cook. 28

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1 whole trout, dressed Extra-virgin olive oil 1–2 lemons Pepper Truffle salt Heat a griddle or cast-iron pan on top of your campfire, or weave a platform out of green willow or mesquite branches. Suspend your wooden platform or griddle cooking device on the rocks comprising your fire ring, about 6 inches above the heat. Cast-iron pan can be set directly on the coals. Coat the dressed fish, inside and out, with olive oil, and place 2–3 lemon slices in the cavity. (It is best to keep your trout whole, especially if using a handcrafted platform, so it retains moisture and is more maneuverable.) If possible, slightly tilt the fish belly up to keep moisture in the cavity. Cook time will depend on variables such as fish size, heat intensity, distance from heat, and weather, but 4–8 minutes per side for fish 14 inches or fewer is a good rule of thumb. When the flesh on the bottom side is flaky, it is ready to flip. After cooking both sides, you can easily peel the skin back and pick the meat off one side. Remove all the bones at once by gently lifting them out in one piece from head to tail. This technique works best if you keep the fish moist and avoid overcooking. Garnish the fish with fresh cracked pepper, truffle salt, and lemon, and enjoy your fresh caught meal.

Root to Stem REDUCING OUR WATER FOOTPRINT By Stephanie Cameron

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

COOKING FRESH More and more chefs and home cooks have embraced snout-to-tail and root-to-stem cooking. Although the concept of using every part of an animal or plant is not new, a movement to better utilize what has been food waste is gaining traction. Tossed food not only squanders money but wastes the energy and water used to grow and transport it. Further, when food waste breaks down in landfills it creates methane, a greenhouse gas far more potent than CO2. (See page 80, which illustrates our water footprint when it comes to food waste.) With the farmers markets coming into full swing this spring, you have the perfect opportunity to use the entire plant and do your part to reduce food waste. From carrot greens to spaghetti squash seeds, here are some easy and imaginative ways to make the most of your produce. Use broccoli stems in slaw; cut a whole cauliflower into steaks; make soup with chard and asparagus stems; sprout the seeds of a watermelon and pickle its rind; and make a pesto or chimichurri out of the tops of turnips, radishes, carrots, or beets. If nothing else, hang onto those scraps to make a delicious homemade stock.

BROCCOLI FRITTERS AND FENNEL YOGURT Makes 8 fritters

Fennel Yogurt 1 bulb of fennel, with stalks and fronds 6 ounces full-fat Greek yogurt 1/2 lemon, juiced 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil Broccoli Fritters 2 medium heads of broccoli (3 cups chopped florets and stems) 1 large egg 1 tablespoon water 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 3/4 cup grated Gruyère cheese 1 small clove garlic, minced 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes Avocado oil or vegetable oil for frying

Fennel Yogurt (make ahead) Preheat oven to 450°F. Chop off the stalks of the fennel and separate from the fronds, keeping them for later. Slice off the bottom of the bulb where the layers connect. Keeping the layers together, slice across the bulb, width-wise, to create thin strips, and slice the stalks into 1/2-inch pieces. Put on a sheet pan, sprinkle it with salt, and toss with 2 teaspoons olive oil. Roast until golden-brown, about 10–15 minutes, then flip the fennel and roast for another 10 minutes. Cool and chop fennel into 1/4-inch pieces. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, combine yogurt, chopped roasted fennel, half the fennel fronds (save the other half for finishing), lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Mix and refrigerate until ready to serve with fritters. Broccoli Fritters Preheat oven to 200°F. Separate broccoli florets from the biggest stem(s), cutting into 1-inch chunks. Slice stems into 1/4-inch lengths; this should equal about 3 cups of chopped broccoli. To steam broccoli until tender but not mushy, bring 1/2 inch of water to a boil in a medium saucepan, add broccoli, cover, and simmer for 5–6 minutes. Drain broccoli, then set aside to cool slightly in a bowl. In bottom of a large bowl, lightly beat 1 egg and 1 tablespoon water. Add flour, cheese, garlic, mustard, salt, and pepper flakes. Use a potato masher or large fork to mash the broccoli just a bit. Keep the bits recognizable, but small enough (1/4- to 1/2-inch chunks) that you can press a mound of the batter into a fritter in the pan. Once mashed, fold the ingredients together with a spoon. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Once hot, add 2 to 3 tablespoons of oil. When the oil is hot, drop a 2-tablespoon mound of the batter into the pan and flatten it slightly with a spoon or spatula. Repeat with additional batter, leaving a couple inches between each fritter. Once brown underneath, about 2–3 minutes, flip each fritter and cook on the other side until equally golden, about another 1–2 minutes. Transfer briefly to paper towels to drain, then to a baking sheet, and place in oven to keep warm while cooking remaining fritters. Serve with fennel yogurt. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

PUREÉD FAVA BEANS WITH CARAMELIZED LEEKS Serves 4

2 cups fresh fava beans (about 2 pounds of pods)* 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1 leek sliced in 1/4-inch rounds, both white and green parts Zest of 1/2 of a medium lemon 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus 2 teaspoons 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika 1/4 teaspoon red chile 1/4 teaspoon sea salt Pita chips or bread

Shell and peel fava beans before cooking. To open the pod, snap off the tip and pull down. Remove the beans from the pod and collect them in a bowl. Fill a mixing bowl with ice water (enough to cover the beans) and set aside. Fill a pot with water (enough to cover the beans) and bring to a boil. Once the water is boiling, blanch the fresh fava beans for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, immediately transfer the blanched fava beans to the bowl of ice water. This will stop them from cooking any longer. Beans are now ready to peel; the skins should slip off fairly easily by pinching between your thumb and forefinger. Purée the fava beans in a food processor with salt and pepper. Sauté the leeks in 2 teaspoons of olive oil with a pinch of salt over medium-high heat for a few minutes. Spread the puréed fava beans in a shallow bowl. Top evenly with the caramelized leeks and sprinkle with lemon zest. In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon of olive oil, garlic powder, smoked paprika, red chile, and sea salt. Drizzle oil over the top of the fava beans and leeks. Serve warm with pita chips or bread. *Note: Canned or dried fava beans, or lima beans, can be used as an alternative.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

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CAULIFLOWER STEAK AND MASH WITH SALSA VERDE Serves 2

Salsa Verde 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup sherry vinegar 2 cups beet greens, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise into very thin ribbons 1/2 cup beet green stems, minced 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon capers, minced 1/2 teaspoon salt Cauliflower and Mash 1 small head of cauliflower 1 garlic clove, finely grated 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons tahini 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 sprigs thyme 2 3-inch strips lemon peel

Salsa Verde (make ahead) In a medium bowl, whisk oil with vinegar. Add beet greens and stems, garlic and capers; mix well. Season the salsa verde with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to serve with cauliflower. Cauliflower and Mash Preheat oven to 425°F. Remove only the toughest outer leaves from cauliflower, leaving tender inner leaves. Trim stem to create a flat base. Resting cauliflower on stem, cut in half from top to bottom, creating two lobes with stem attached. Trim largest edge of each lobe to create two 1 1/2-inch thick steaks; set aside. Chop remaining florets and stems very coarsely. Cook florets in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until very tender, 6–8 minutes. Drain and combine in a food processor with garlic, lemon juice, tahini, and 1 tablespoon water until smooth; season with salt. Set aside. Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add butter and melt, then add cauliflower steaks, thyme sprigs, and lemon peel. Cook, gently lifting cauliflower occasionally to let hot fat run underneath, until steaks are deep golden brown. (If thyme or lemon start to burn, place on top of steaks.) Turn steaks and season with salt. Transfer skillet to oven and roast until cauliflower stems are fork-tender, 10–15 minutes. To serve, spoon about 1/3 cup cauliflower purée onto plates and place steaks on top. Spoon salsa over the top. Serve with lemon wedges for squeezing.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

SA N TA F E ’ S PR E M I E R ST E A K H O U S E

LOCAL · VIBRANT · FRESH SERVING BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER 125 SECOND STREET NW ALBUQUERQUE, NM 87102 Phone: 505.388.0088 O P E N T U E S - S AT, 5 P M - 1 0 P M WEEKEND BRUNCH 10: 30AM - 2PM

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GREEN GRAVY DISCO FRIES Serves 4

Fries 5 sweet potatoes, julienned or spiralized with skins on 3 golden beets (save tops for Salsa Verde; see previous recipe) 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt to taste Gravy 4 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 6 large chard leaves and stems, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 cup vegetable stock 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/2 teaspoon pepper Salt to taste Garnish 1/4 cup goat cheese 1/4 cup chopped parsley

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss sweet potatoes in a bowl with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Spread in a single layer onto a parchment paper lined baking sheet and sprinkle with salt. Peel and cut beets in half; cut into 1/2-inch strips. Transfer to the same bowl; add the remaining oil and toss to coat. Spread onto another parchment paper lined baking sheet and sprinkle with salt. Bake both sweet potatoes and beets for 20–25 minutes, to desired crispness. Meanwhile, make the green gravy. In a large skillet over medium high heat, melt butter, then whisk in flour until there are no lumps. Add chard and toss lightly to coat leaves. Add vinegar and toss again. Remove from heat and cover to allow chard to steam. Set the skillet aside; the butter and flour on the bottom of the pan will help the gravy thicken. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine stock and cream; heat until just hot. Using a blender, purée the chard mixture and about 1/3 of the liquid until very smooth. Over medium-high heat, return the chard mixture to the same skillet. Slowly whisk in the remaining liquid and allow to cook until thickened to a good gravy consistency. Serve fries “disco-style,” topped with green gravy and sprinkled with goat cheese and chopped parsley.

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FORAGED

Searching for Sochan Story and Photos by Ellen Zachos

Sochan, also known as cut-leaf coneflower.

Rudbeckia laciniata is known by many names. You may hear it called cut-leaf coneflower, tall coneflower, green-headed coneflower, golden glow, or sochan. Historically, sochan has been gathered by Cherokees and other Southeastern tribes, although the USDA shows it growing all over the United States. Despite the fact that this plant is both very common and very tasty, there is little in the foraging literature about eating sochan, outside of the Cherokee Nation. Sochan is native to New Mexico, and in the wild, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find it growing along stream banks and in moist forests, in both sun and shade. I remember hiking through the Pecos in the summer of 2001 and seeing sochan poking up through the charred earth left behind by the Viveash fire. At the time, I admired the persistence of this perennial, but knew nothing about its edibility. Even many foragers are unaware of this native, edible plant, but once youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve tasted it, you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget it. 38

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

A member of the sunflower family, the deeply lobed leaves of Rudbeckia laciniata give it part of its botanical name. Laciniate means divided into deep, irregular segments, and the leaves of sochan are deeply and irregularly lobed. Leaves in the basal rosette are larger and more prominently lobed than the leaves produced along the flower stem as the plant matures. The flowers of sochan are similar to those of black-eyed Susan (an inedible Rudbeckia cousin), but with several differences. The petals of sochan droop downward, where black-eyed Susan petals are held horizontally, and the center of the flower is greenish brown rather than dark brown or black. It also grows much taller than the black-eyed Susan, reaching six to ten feet high. To the untrained eye, sochan can be difficult to identify when nothing but young leaves are visible. The flowers make it easier to identify, so keep your eyes open July through September. Then make

FORAGED

Left: Sochan in Phyllo Dough. Right: Irregularly lobed leaves of rudbeckia laciniata.

a mental note of where you see it growing. Next spring, check back to gather your harvest. The greens of sochan are best gathered young. Leaves that are just beginning to emerge and are still partially furled can be sautéed or steamed and eaten whole. Slightly older leaves, in the basal rosette before the plant flowers, make excellent cooked greens. Once the flower stalk begins to grow, the leaves become tougher and more fibrous. In fall, after the plant has finished blooming, it often puts out another round of tender leaves at the base of the plant. The flavor of spring sochan is gently spicy. Its taste resembles that of a mild bok choi or celery. Fall leaves may have a stronger flavor than spring leaves; I like their flavor even better than the milder spring greens. And while Native Americans traditionally fry the greens in fat, sochan greens can be used in many other ways: in soups, casseroles, quiches, and this twist on spanakopita. If you fall in love with the flavor of sochan, add some to your garden. It’s a dependable, low maintenance perennial, a tasty green in the kitchen, and makes a great addition to any permaculture landscape.

SOCHAN IN PHYLLO DOUGH Serves 8

1 box of phyllo dough 4 cups tender sochan leaves, roughly chopped 1 cup chopped onions, finely chopped 1 tablespoon dry, crumbled bee balm or oregano 1 cup Greek yogurt 1 cup crumbled feta cheese 2 eggs, slightly beaten Extra-virgin olive oil Olive oil spray Salt and pepper to taste 40

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

Preheat your oven to 350°F, and use olive oil spray to coat the bottom of an 11x17-inch baking pan. Set this aside. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a large pan and sauté the onions until they are tender and translucent. Add the greens and cook until they wilt, then remove them from the heat and let the greens cool. Once the greens are at room temperature, add the bee balm, feta, yogurt, and beaten eggs, and combine thoroughly. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, then taste and adjust as needed. Set the greens mixture aside. Open the plastic wrap surrounding the phyllo and unroll the dough. Cut the stack of phyllo layers to make it fit your baking pan. Work quickly with the phyllo so it doesn’t dry out. If interrupted, cover the phyllo with a damp dish towel to keep the dough moist and prevent cracking. Place one piece of phyllo in the bottom of the pan. Spray the phyllo with olive oil, and lay another piece on top of the first. Repeat until you have four layers of phyllo. Take half of the greens mixture and spread it evenly across the phyllo. Place a layer of phyllo on top of the greens and spray it. Add three more layers of phyllo, spraying each layer. Spread the remainder of the greens on top of the phyllo, and again, add four layers of phyllo, spraying each layer with oil. Use a sharp knife to score the top layer of phyllo into rectangles. Scoring the raw phyllo makes for neater cutting later on. If you wait until after you’ve cooked the phyllo, the dough will crack when cut. Bake for 45 minutes or until the top layer of phyllo is golden brown and crispy. Remove the phyllo from the oven and let it cool slightly, then cut and serve.

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Dish

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BEHIND THE BOTTLE

New Mexico Wine Guide

New Mexico has a robust industry of family-owned wineries. With over fifty wineries and tasting rooms around the state, any of your staycation travels can include an afternoon of wine tasting. As you seek out your favorite New Mexico wines, we recommend using a notebook or taking photos of the wine bottle because it can be hard to remember all the details of what makes a particular wine appealing. Here, we provide a list of all the members of the New Mexico Wine Growers Association, which works to promote, protect, and educate our local wineries.

Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

ALBUQUERQUE AREA

Sheehan Winery

Acequia Vineyards and Winery

1544 Cerro Vista Road SW, Albuquerque, 505-280-3104, sheehanwinery.com

Black's Smuggler Winery

901 Rio Grande Blvd. NW, Albuquerque, 505-243-9916, stclairwinery.com

Casa Abril Vineyards and Winery

315 Alameda Blvd. NE, Albuquerque, 505-898-6280, varawines.com

240 Reclining Acres Road, Corrales, 505-264-1656, acequiawinery.com

25 Winery Road, Bosque, 505-388-8117, blackssmugglerwinery.com 01 Camino Abril, Algodones, 505-771-0208, casaabrilvineyards.com

Casa Rondeña Winery

733 Chavez Road NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-5911, casarondena.com

Corrales Winery

6275 Corrales Road, Corrales, 505-898-5165, corraleswinery.com

Gruet Winery

8400 Pan American Freeway NE, Albuquerque, 505-821-0055, gruetwinery.com

Milagro Vineyards

985 W Ella Drive, Corrales, 505-898-3998, milagrowine.com

Pasando Tiempo Winery

277 Dandelion Road, Corrales, 505-228-0154, pasandotiempowinery.com

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

St. Clair Winery & Bistro-Albuquerque Vara Wines

SANTA FE AREA Gruet Winery

210 Don Gaspar Drive, Hotel St. Francis, Santa Fe, 505-989-9463, gruetwinery.com

Hervé Wine Bar

Vivác Winery - Santa Fe

1607 Paseo De Peralta, Santa Fe, 505-579-4441, vivacwinery.com

NORTHWEST

Rio Suave Vineyard

66 Road 4556, Blanco, 505-860-0572, facebook.com/Rio-Suave-Vineyard

St. Clair Winery & Bistro - Farmington 5150 E Main Street, Farmington, 505-325-0711, stclairwinery.com

Wines of the San Juan

233 Hwy 511, Blanco, 505-632-0879, winesofthesanjuan.com

139 W San Francisco Street, Santa Fe, 505-795-7075, stclairwinery.com/santa-fe-herve

NORTHEAST

505 Cerrillos Road, Santa Fe, 505-231-0632, nmcider.com

1502 Hwy 68, Velarde, 505-852-2820, blackmesawinery.com

219 W San Francisco Street, Santa Fe, 505-983-9454, noisywaterwinery.com

Hwy 75 Road 1119, Dixon, 505-579-4437, lachiripada.com

New Mexico Hard Cider

Black Mesa Winery

Noisy Water Winery Santa Fe

La Chiripada Winery & Vineyards

The Wine Spot in Santa Fe

Las Nueve Niñas Winery

411 W Water Street, Santa Fe, 505-216-5900, winespotsantafe.com

County Road 117, A023, Mora, 505-249-8662, lasnueveninaswinery.com

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BEHIND THE BOTTLE

Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

Ponderosa Valley Vineyards & Winery

Arena Blanca Winery

Luna Rossa Winery

Vivác Winery

Heart of the Desert - Farm & Ranch Heritage Museum

St. Clair Winery

3171 Hwy 290, Ponderosa, 505-834-7487, ponderosawinery.com 2075 NM 68, Dixon, 505-579-4441, vivacwinery.com

Wicked Kreations Winery

37 Hwy 82, Alamogordo, 575-437-0602, pistachioland.com/winery

4100 Dripping Springs Road, Las Cruces, 575-522-4100, heartofthedesert.com

249 County Road 59, La Canova, 505-620-0298, wickedkreationswinery.com

Heart of the Desert - Mesilla

SOUTH

La Viña Winery

Dos Viejos Winery

69 Pecos Road, Tularosa, 575-585-2647, dosviejoswines.com

Heart of the Desert

7288 Hwy 54/70, Alamogordo, 575-434-0035, heartofthedesert.com

Jaramillo Vineyards

114 Becker, Belen, 505-859-0684, jaramillovineyards.com

Shattuck Vineyard

43 Brindle Road, Caballo, 915-491-9459, shattuckvineyard.com

Tularosa Vineyards

23 Coyote Canyon Road, Tularosa, 575-585-2260, tularosavineyards.com

LAS CRUCES AREA TO THE SOUTHERN BORDER Amaro Winery

402 S Melendres Street, Las Cruces, 575-527-5310, amarowinerynm.com

Fort Selden Winery

1233 Fort Selden Road, Las Cruces, 575-647-9585, fortseldenwinery.com

Arena Blanca Winery

7320 US Hwy 54/70 North, Alamogordo, 575-437-0602, pistachioland.com/winery

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

2350 Calle de Principal, Las Cruces, 575-647-2115, heartofthedesert.com 4201 S Hwy NM 28, La Union, 575-882-7632, lavina.wolfep.com

Luna Rossa Winery & Pizzeria

1321 Avenida de Mesilla, Las Cruces, 575-526-2484, lunarossawinery.com

Mesa Vista Winery

3200 NM 28, Anthony, 915-494-7248, facebook.com/mesavistawinerytastingroom

NM Vintage Wines

2461 Calle de Principal, Mesilla, 575-523-9463, nmvintagewines.com

Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery

5321 Hwy 28, Las Cruces, 575-524-3985, riograndewinery.com

Sombra Antigua Vineyard and Winery 430 La Vina Road, Anthony, 915-241-4349, sombraantigua.com

St. Clair Winery & Bistro-Las Cruces 1720 Avenida de Mesilla, Las Cruces, 575-524-2408, stclairwinery.com

SOUTHWEST

Black Range Vineyards

10701 Hwy 152, Hillsboro, 575-895-5000, blackrangevineyards.com

La Esperanza Vineyard & Winery 100 De La O, Sherman, 505-259-9523, laesperanzavineyardandwinery.com

3710 W Pine Street, Deming, 575-544-1160, lunarossawinery.com 1325 De Baca Road, Deming, 575-546-9324, stclairwinery.com

SOUTHEAST

Balzano Family Vineyard & Pumpkin Patch

5230 Seven Rivers Hwy, Carlsbad, 575-361-4993, balzanovineyard.com

Noisy Water Winery

2342 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso, 575-257-9335, noisywaterwinery.com

Noisy Water Winery - Cloudcroft 505 Burro Avenue, Cloudcroft, 575-682-6610, noisywaterwinery.com

Pecos Flavors Winery

412 W Second Street, Roswell, 575-627-6265, pecosflavorswinery.com

Enchantment Vineyards

2102 E 3rd Street, Portales, 575-226-WINE, enchantmentvineyard.com

UPCOMING FESTIVALS

Albuquerque Wine Festival May 25–27, 2019

Las Cruces Wine Festival May 25–27, 2019

Albuquerque / Las Cruces Harvest Wine Festival Aug 31–September 2, 2019

nmwine.com

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EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Coffee Shops By Stephanie and Walt Cameron Publishers Stephanie and Walt Cameron are sharing some of their finds around New Mexico in edible’s new department, Eight Around the State. Traveling the state in search of great food and stories demands a good cup of coffee from time to time, so in this issue they share some of the coffee shops where they stopped in local communities— New Mexico top to bottom, noting their favorite coffee drinks, tacos, drafts, cocktails, rellenos, and baked goods. They would love to hear of readers’ favorites. Drop them an email at info@ediblenm.com with your best finds from anywhere in the Land of Enchantment.

Raton ENCHANTED GROUNDS What we’re drinking: Mexican Mocha Atmosphere: Charming, friendly neighborhood spot down by the railroad. They very well might have the friendliest staff in New Mexico, making you feel right at home as soon as you walk through the door. Nibbles: A simple, made-from-scratch menu featuring paninis, sandwiches, and salads. Find: 111 Park Avenue, Raton

Las Vegas WORLD TREASURES TRAVELER'S CAFE What we’re drinking: Traveler’s Latte, served with white cake. Atmosphere: Tucked away just off the historic plaza. An old loom stands in the corner with rugs and blankets for sale hanging on the walls in a large, open room. There is a long community table and lots of small table seating. Nibbles: Breakfast and lunch options with a soup of the day and gorgeous cakes and pastries. Worth noting: You can pick up fresh eggs, vegetables, and grassfed lamb and beef from a local farm in Mora. Find: 1814 Plaza Street, Las Vegas

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

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EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Ruidoso SACRED GROUNDS What we’re drinking: Coffee of the day served in a warm mug. Atmosphere: Log cabin look with multiple spaces to settle into, depending on your mood, from couches and tables to dozing by the fireplace. Great deck for river watching on a warm or chilly day. Live music and movie nights every weekend. Nibbles: Full restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner in addition to full bakery and cocktail/beer/wine bar. Find: Located in midtown, 2704 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso

Las Cruces MOM'S COFFEE What we’re drinking: Caffè macchiato, two shots of espresso with a dollop of foam, served with a butter cookie. Atmosphere: Cozy and bright with games, such as chess and Chinese checkers, scattered about. Nibbles: Straightforward and easy to navigate food menu with breakfast sandwiches, garlic avocado toast, and their famous Maple Bacon Waffles. Find: Located across from New Mexico State University, 1001 E University Avenue, Las Cruces

Mesilla THE BEAN What we’re drinking: Red Eye, coffee of the day plus a shot of espresso. Coffee roasted in-house. Atmosphere: Great bike-in spot with bright, cheery colors inside and outdoor seating to soak up the rays. Nibbles: Be sure and try the breakfast tacos with eggs and your choice of mix-ins. Several other hearty breakfast and lunch items are available in addition to pastries. Find: 2011 Avenida de Mesilla, Las Cruces Photo by Caitlin E. Jenkins

Open for Lunch Tuesday-Sunday. Open for Dinner Everyday. Happy Hour Tuesday-Sunday 2-5 PM. 30 craft beers on tap. 614 Trinity Drive, Los Alamos â&#x20AC;¢ 505-662-8877 pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Taos THE COFFEE APOTHECARY What we’re drinking: Double shot of espresso with a blend of Ethiopian and Colombian beans served with sparkling water. Atmosphere: Modern ambiance with natural light streaming in. Very friendly and knowledgeable staff. Roasting: Small batches of single-origin beans roasted in-house. Nibbles: Small pastry selection that is often limited, but they encourage you to bring your own. Find: 616 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos

Santa Fe FLOAT CAFE & BAR AT MEOW WOLF What we’re drinking: King’s Mouth Golden Latte, espresso, turmeric, ginger, and honey with steamed coconut milk. Atmosphere: A funky hang-out space to chill in while between visits into the House of Eternal Return. Nibbles: Small grab-and-go case in addition to rotating food trucks parked outside. Full bar opens in the afternoon with local brews, wines, and creative cocktails. Find: 1352 Rufina Circle, Santa Fe

Albuquerque CUTBOW COFFEE ROASTOLOGY What we’re drinking: Cortado Bon Bon, espresso with sweetened condensed milk. Worth noting: Cutbow Coffee Roastology is the culmination of more than twenty-five years’ experience by one of the nation's most accomplished artisan coffee roasters, Paul Gallegos. Personally batch roasting over seventy million pounds for Peet's Coffee, Gallegos’s acumen is undeniable. Atmosphere: Cutbow Coffee is named after the cutbow trout, and in honor of Gallegos’s late father, an avid fisherman of the waters in northern New Mexico, and is filled with nostalgic fishing memorabilia. Find: 1208 Rio Grande Boulevard, Albuquerque

HINDSIGHT INSIGHT REFLECTING ON THE COLLECTION Ongoing Exhibition

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FERMENTI'S PARADOX

Brewing in the East Mountains ALE REPUBLIC TAPS INTO UNIQUE FLAVORS By Robin Babb

Ale Republic is brewing beer with the terroir of the Sandias. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Although Albuquerque has no shortage of breweries, I regularly make my way to Cedar Crest to visit a little brewery and taproom with big mountainside charm. I like to go to Ale Republic after a hike in the Sandias because nobody will judge me for being muddy and sweaty, because they have free pool, because there’s always at least one dog to pet, and because their beer is damn good. The clientele is a mix of East Mountain locals and city dwellers like me who love the chance to get away for the afternoon and enjoy the outdoor seating area’s phenomenal views. However, I recently visited Ale Republic for a different reason, to find out about a unique factor in their brewing: their water. Unlike breweries in cities, Ale Republic uses well water to make their beer, and this makes for some interesting flavors in the resulting brew. To illustrate the point, Zachary Gould, one of Ale Republic’s owners and brewers, pours me three tasting glasses of water. Each one contains a different kind of water that the brewery uses in a different way. 52

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

“This one,” Gould says, pointing to the glass on the left, “is RO [reverse osmosis filtered].” It tastes clean and almost sweet, with very little in the way of any lingering flavors. Ale Republic only uses this for drinking water in their water cooler, as the filtering process is time-consuming and has limited output capacity. “This,” he says, pointing to the rightmost glass, “is the [property’s] original tap water; and this,” gesturing to the middle glass, “is the water we use for brewing.” I can instantly taste the difference between these two glasses and the water filtered through reverse osmosis. The water Ale Republic uses for brewing is pulled from an aquifer that goes through sand but is otherwise unfiltered, and it has a slight tang to it. It’s a flavor that people often think of as involving Belgian yeast, says Gould. “But it’s definitely not. A lot of our American-style beers end up tasting like that.” “Basically, you have a couple different aquifers that you can pull from on this side of the mountain,” says Gould. “You can pull from right

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FERMENTI'S PARADOX

Zachary Gould in the brewing room at Ale Republic. Photos by Robin Babb.

under the mountain, which gives you a really big water source, but it runs through a lot of granite.” He’s right; in the original, unfiltered tap water I can really taste the granite. There is no mistaking that this water came out of the ground, and recently. It is far more minerally than the well water they now use for brewing, so much so that I could easily understand how the flavors would linger in the final product. Though there aren’t many people who notice the high mineral content of the water in Ale Republic’s beers, those who do are almost always out-of-towners, says Gould. People who live in the East Mountains are used to drinking that well water at home. Partly to mask the mineral taste of their water, Ale Republic leans toward brewing stouts and other dark beers like their Sombra and their Strong Dark and Handsome. To clarify, this mineral taste isn’t bad—at least not to my palate. It’s just different from what most of us are used to. Knowing that the water comes from under the Sandias adds a little bit of romance to the flavor, because it frames it more in terms of local terroir than “impurities,” which is how water with high mineral content is sometimes thought of. These minerals aren’t unhealthy—in fact, plenty of health-concerned people add trace minerals back into their purified or distilled drinking water for their health benefits, admittedly minor. Also, there are plenty of people who like the taste of rocks in their water; just ask the wildly popular bottled mineral water industry. They’re just picky about what kind of rock, and how much of it. “When we first opened here, every time we turned on the water it just reeked of sulfur,” says Gould. “We figured it had something to do with the hot water tank. So we cleaned out the water tank and it got rid of the sulfur, but the water in this building was still incredibly hard.” Brewing 54

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

with well water—or doing anything with well water, really—has its own set of problems that most city folks don’t have to think about. The water that Ale Republic brews with is from a well they had drilled just about one hundred feet away from the original, graniteflavored well. “This is a lot more shallow a reservoir that we’re pulling from,” Gould says. I ask if anybody has gotten in his hair about the environmental impact of operating a brewery on the limited well system in the East Mountains. “Yeah, definitely,” he says. “When we first opened, we had a zoning hearing. There were a bunch of people who were concerned about the amount of water we were going to use. And the state came in and did a survey and didn’t feel like it was an issue.” Of course, any brewery in the city running on the city tap water uses much more water, because they don’t have hard limits on the amount they can use. When you’re drawing from a well, you can only use as much water as it can produce. “We’ve never had the well go dry,” Gould says. “We’ve come very close, but anytime we come close we always evaluate and see where we can reduce.” Hypothetically speaking, Ale Republic could invest in a big enough reverse osmosis filtration system to filter all of the water it brews with, making it taste much closer to the neutral bottled-water taste that we’ve come to think of as a baseline. But then their beer wouldn’t taste like the Sandias anymore. And although being bound to the limits of the well is a hurdle that Ale Republic wouldn’t have to jump over if they just shipped in city water, it also means that their beers literally couldn’t be made anywhere else. And that sounds like an asset to me. 28 Arroyo Seco, Cedar Crest, 505-281-2828, alerepublic.com

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TOOLS OF THE TRADE

A Vital Solution MIKE LISK HELPS RANCHERS REDISTRIBUTE THEIR MOST VALUABLE RESOURCE By Nora Hickey

Cattle at a Remote Well drinker. The drinkers conserve groundwater, pumping only what is needed. Photo courtesy of Mike Lisk.

The history of New Mexico is one inextricably linked with water— or the lack of it. Rain comes rarely, but when it does, it often arrives as a welcome deluge to a choked land. New Mexicans are familiar with the word drought and the body’s visceral reactions to it. Who here hasn’t felt the dry heat of a sun-bleached day? Those who dwell in the city are no strangers to water restrictions on their allotment for yards and gardens. But what about those who must labor in fields afar, the men and women who keep the agricultural mechanisms of the state turning? For rural ranchers of New Mexico, the problem of water can be a matter of life or death. That’s why the story of one man’s relationship to water is so significant. Mike Lisk came to Lincoln County after a thirty-year career as an engineer in Arizona. “My wife and I moved to New Mexico to retire and we bought a ranch,” Lisk explains. Lisk’s plan to spend his days leisurely on the land was soon thwarted by the issue that occupies many New Mexican ranchers in the end—water. Or rather, the poor distribution of it. He explains, “There was feed in a lot of areas on our ranch, but it was too far for the cattle to walk to. The areas that were concentrated by water were overgrazed.” Once Lisk started spreading 56

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

the sources of water more evenly on their land, he saw immediate effects: less overgrazing and fatter, more content cattle. Lisk was curious about other ranchers’ experiences and started to visit with others to see if they suffered from the same water distribution issues. “We saw a tremendous waste of water with the current system. Much of the water is lost to evaporation,” Lisk says. The windmill system, found on many rural ranches throughout New Mexico, works by, of course, the wind, which causes the arms to move and water to be pumped from a source into open containers for animals to drink from. But the issue with the mechanism, which has punctuated open land for generations, is the loss of water that comes with the inability to stop its flow. “When the water gets pumped out of the ground and the tank is full, it just overflows,” Lisk explains. “No matter the percentage of rainfall in New Mexico, it doesn’t matter—you’re going to lose about a third of the water with the windmills.” To address that water waste, Lisk created a solar-powered monitoring and filling system for cattle and wildlife drinkers. “Our systems are fully automated and solar-powered. They use pressure differentiations to sense water levels in tanks far, far away. You can look and see

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TOOLS OF THE TRADE

Top left: Many Navajo livestock producers must haul water to support the needs of the livestockâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an expensive and time-consuming process. Top right: The majority of dirt tanks are dependent on rain, and as they silt in and dry up, they can be deadly traps for livestock and wildlife. The bottom four photos show the components of the Well Watchmen system by Remote Well Solutions. Left middle: Pumping plant. Left bottom: Drinker. Right middle: Solar pumping plant. Bottom right: The controller automatically turns a solar pump on and off to maintain water levels without overfilling. Photos courtesy of Mike Lisk.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

the percentage of water in the tank—so you know if it’s eighty percent or however much,” he says. Through Remote Well Solutions LLC, his startup company based in Cloudcroft, Lisk hopes to make ranching more successful and sustainable. With remote monitoring, the need to drive out and check on water levels is rendered needless. “We talk about carbon footprints, and with so many of these ranchers, there’s a two-hour trip on a rough road, hauling water from the town to the cattle,” Lisk says. And cattle won’t be the only beneficiaries of Lisk’s solution; thirsty wildlife will gain as well, and the prairie grasses that the animals eat will have more time and space for renewal and growth. As Lisk took his solar-powered monitoring system to different agricultural and ranching gatherings, a group that showed particular interest was the Navajo Nation. For the Navajo, with land that spans nearly thirty thousand square miles, reaching into Arizona, New Mexico, and Utah, ranching has been a part of life for many years. With such large tracts of rural land, Navajo tribal farms in particular have struggled with delivering water adequately to their animals.

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“We have several tribal ranches [operating separately from livestock operations] that are practically off the grid. There’s no power for our watering system out there so we rely on windmills, which we continue to have ongoing maintenance issues with, and on natural springs,” explains Ferdinand Notah, project program specialist of the Navajo Department of Agriculture. But, with Remote Well Solutions, these issues can be mediated. “If we are able to extend the water lines beyond the well site, the animals will eat where the grasses are taller, gain more weight, travel less distance, and then that energy goes into weight gain,” Notah says. That weight gain translates into more income for the ranchers, and a possibility to have more cattle on a single ranch. “Through increasing capacity, we will in turn increase revenue back to the Navajo Nation,” Notah says. “Hopefully we will elevate ranching into a more sustainable, resilient economy—basically using science and practical measures and trying to make agriculture a major contributor to our economy.” In addition to improving cattle health and numbers, Remote Well Solutions will also provide a variety of jobs. “We see on these rural lands that when people get educated, there’s no opportunities there, so they leave,” Lisk explains. “We’re excited to offer training and a good paying job.” Lisk and the Navajo Nation will start installation in April. To hear Notah speak of it is to appreciate the magnitude of the potential ranching can provide. “That is our livelihood. Basically, we want Navajo to grow Navajo, eat Navajo, and we can get away from what we know as a food desert. We can reverse that heavy reliance on the big supermarket chains on the border towns. It’s a process of nation building.”

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Even as the weather grows more unpredictable, changing at a moment’s notice from a thunderous storm to a soundless, bleached sky, Lisk’s creation will make ranchers’ turbulent lives steadier.

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Invisible Water GROUNDWATER RESOURCE MANAGEMENT AND AGRICULTURE IN UNION COUNTY By Kate Zeigler and Barbara Podzemny

Rabbit Ear Mountains north of NM 370 in Union County. Photo by James L. Stuby.

“A

A common conception in northeastern New Mexico is that most producers are sitting above the Ogallala aquifer and, therefore, “oceans of water” lie beneath our feet.

edible New Mexico | LATE WINTER 2019

or a handful of small communities in the farthest corner @TravelNewMexico of northeastern New Mexico, something remarkable has happened beneath their feet. Their story involves a perhaps unlikely team––farmers, ranchers, and geologists––and illustrates how a lot of hard work, as well as a lot of heartache and fear, has led to some big changes in traditions that had been passed on for several generations. The story of the groundwater of Union County serves as one example of an ongoing community-based effort for figuring out how to manage an invisible but most valuable resource—one that determines much about the fate of the land we live on, and of our families. In much of New Mexico, water used for livestock, crops, residences, and communities comes from deep underground, and yet many in New Mexico know very little about this precious resource. For example, generations of agricultural producers on the eastern plains of New Mexico have relied on groundwater to grow crops and raise cattle due to a lack of surface water. At first, small hand-dug wells and windmills drilled with small auger rigs were the primary way to retrieve this water. After the Dust Bowl, center pivots became more mainstream as a form of crop irrigation, and they are often seen as being a more efficient means of watering than ditch or row watering. For cattle ranching, windmills are still in service in some areas, although wells are slowly being converted to solar-powered pumps in many places. No matter how it is delivered to the surface of the land, the primary water source in the region is groundwater from the aquifer. A common conception in northeastern New Mexico is that most producers are sitting above the Ogallala aquifer and, therefore, “oceans of water” lie beneath our feet. If one looks at Union County from above, the majority of the county is rangeland, with three areas of center pivot irrigation: near Gladstone on the west side of the county, around Sedan southeast of Clayton, and around Seneca northeast of Clayton. But this geographic distribution of irrigated farmland raises an interesting question: If there are oceans of water beneath the ground, why then is irrigated cropland confined to these small patches? After all, it may take three hundred fifty gallons a minute to drive a center pivot, but if all that water exists, should we not be able to farm everywhere? Recent geohydrology work in Union County has begun to dismantle this idea of the Ogallala as the primary aquifer for the area and to raise concerns about the groundwater resources available for production in the county. Generally speaking, most land owners have an idea about the state of their groundwater. Some know there is trouble brewing because they or their neighbors have had to lower pumps in wells or wells have gone dry. For most of the history of deep-well irrigation in the area, very little solid data has been available for most of northeastern New Mexico. But things began to change in 2005 when the Office of the State Engineer designated the last administered groundwater basin in New Mexico: the Clayton groundwater basin. Now that policy would be put into place to begin to regulate use of groundwater, many residents of Union County grew concerned about the state of that invisible, precious resource. Recognizing how little most of Union County knew about our groundwater resources, the Northeastern

Soil and Water Conservation District (NESWCD) decided to learn more about our aquifers. District Board members taught themselves to measure static water levels to USGS standards and teamed up with geologists to learn more about what groundwater resources were really there and what the potential lifetime for these aquifers could be. The Union County Hydrogeology Project, launched in 2007, included annual water level measurements and, eventually, water chemistry and isotope analyses, as well as geologic mapping. By 2012, Union County was deep in the heart of the worst drought the area had ever seen, with barely measurable precipitation that year. Water level measurements from 2007 through 2013 showed the water table dropping rapidly around Sedan and Seneca with some wells showing declines of up to ten feet a year. In 2013, the release of water level measurement data as well as geology, chemistry, and isotope data began to bring into focus the true story of the groundwater resources for the county. And the story was grim. A critical part of understanding how to manage groundwater as a resource is to determine the relationship between discharge and recharge. For a well, the basic hydrologic cycle would ideally see a balance between discharge (use of the well by pumping water) and recharge (snow and/or rainfall percolating down to the local water table). If there is far more discharge than recharge, the water table declines and eventually wells go dry. Tritium, a useful marker of modern precipitation, is an isotope of hydrogen that occurs naturally in the upper atmosphere. On its own, it is not a significant component of the groundwater system, but during the testing of atomic bombs in the 1950s, large quantities of tritium were released into the atmosphere. This man-made tritium makes its way down into the water table as rain and snowmelt percolates down through the soil. If the water drawn from a well has measurable tritium in it, it means that post-1950s precipitation was able to meander down to the water table. Well water with little to no measurable tritium indicates that recharge is happening very slowly, if it is happening at all. Effectively, the net use of water via wells is far greater than the net replenishment of the resource. Unfortunately, the majority of wells studied in Union County have little to no tritium in the water, suggesting the recharge part of the hydrologic cycle is very slow or simply not happening. When this information was shared directly with producers, a sea-change occurred. In January 2015, the district’s geology team went through its annual water level measurements and discovered something unusual: The wells around Sedan that had been dropping significantly, up to ten feet per year, had declined less than a foot over the past year. Startled by this change, the geology team went knocking on doors to ask local producers what they had observed during the year. A remarkable story emerged. After learning more precisely what was happening with their groundwater, the majority of producers around Sedan had shifted their crop management strategy. Many switched from higher grade corn varieties to low grade silage corn that had a much shorter growth season. Others changed to hay varieties and some areas were reverted to grassland through the USDA’s Conservation Reserve Program. Overall, these changes appear to have WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Left: Kate Zeigler measures static water level in an old, abandoned irrigation well northwest of Sedan. Keeping track of water levels over several years shows the short- and long-term behavior of local water tables. Photo by Randy Podzemny. Right: Barbara Podzemny stands on an outcrop of Ogallala Formation in a creek bottom south of Clayton. Mapping the outcrop exposures of Ogallala helps with understanding the characteristics of this rock unit as an aquifer. Photo by Kate Zeigler.

led to a net slowing of the water table decline. This change in crop strategy has not been easy for local farmers and has created financial strain for these families to some extent, but the sacrifice was made to preserve the ability of the land—and now the groundwater—to sustain these families for at least another generation or two. It is not only the farming families who have made major changes. Their ranching counterparts have implemented similar strategies by turning wells off religiously when cattle move out of pastures, rather than letting the windmills pump water for wildlife or for maintenance. Some ranch families began converting windmills to solar powered pumps or submersible pumps on timers, thereby controlling the flow of groundwater more carefully. In subsequent winters, the pattern held––wells continue to decline, but on average by less than a foot or two each year, a huge change. Even in 2019, with new families starting to work in the area, neighbors have shared the information that has come out of the efforts described here and conservation efforts continue. With the current understanding of how slow (or nonexistent) recharge is for these aquifers, it is unlikely that we will be able to level out consumption versus recharge for these areas, but the care taken for the use of every drop of water lengthens the 62

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time a family has to find alternatives. Ideas that have circulated include aquaponics, and one exploratory project in Alamosa, Colorado, seeks to explore the local geology even more to experiment with shallow targeted recharge efforts that include engineering ditches and/or ponds in “sweet spots” on the landscape to allow more snowfall and/ or rainfall to work its way down to the local aquifer. The traditions built into ranching and farming families are strong and carry over multiple generations. One of the strongest lessons passed down is “take care of the land and the land will take care of you.” Producers in Union County have carried that lesson to include their groundwater resources as something to be taken care of along with their soil, their crops, their grass, their cattle, and their communities. The impact of Union County’s efforts has rippled out and there are now groundwater resource management studies being conducted on range and crop land in seven area counties. Groundwater is a tricky resource—it is one of the most precious components of a ranch or farm, but it is the easiest to overlook. The joining of forces between producers and geologists has helped these families and communities take care of their groundwater to prolong this land’s ability to provide for future generations.

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Carlsbadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cattle Ranchers Get Fracked OIL AND GAS BOOM PUTS A WAY OF LIFE IN JEOPARDY By Joanna Manganaro Toto

Photo by Emma Valerio.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

good family friend, Carlsbad insurance agent and financial adviser Boz Green, recently told me a joke that went something like this: An ol’ cattle ranching guy asked another cattle rancher from around here what breeds he raised. “Crossbreeds,” he answered. The first rancher said, “Oh, yeah? Herefords and Black Angus?” And the man responded, “Oil and gas.” They say there’s a grain of truth in every joke, but it’s more like a boulder of truth in this one. The recent fracking boom in the Carlsbad area is changing its food production landscape and proving especially disruptive to ranching operations. Hydraulic fracturing, commonly called fracking, is a method of extracting oil and natural gas which involves treating freshwater with chemicals and shooting it down a well using a pressurized system to release the oil and gas that have been resting between layers of shale under the earth's surface. Oil companies have been fracking in and around Carlsbad for decades, but nobody paid much attention because technological limitations kept the activity in the area fairly contained. However, recent innovations in fracking allow for horizontal drilling and have revolutionized the industry. In addition to the new discovery of huge reserves of oil in the Permian Basin, which encompasses parts of southeastern New Mexico and west Texas, fracking has brought an enormous increase in oil and gas activity to Carlsbad. Fracked wells in the Permian Basin are said to have extracted more than two hundred million barrels of oil in 2018 (up from eighty-five million in 2011), and that number is projected to increase in the years to come. All this oil and gas activity has arguably made Carlsbad, my hometown, a pretty miserable, although very lucrative, place to be. When I was growing up there in the 1980s and 1990s, the population hovered around twenty-eight thousand. It was the type of town where you’d see someone you knew everywhere you went, which meant that any misbehaving would usually get back to your parents by the time you got home. Every teenager, from the jocks to the goths, learned how to two-step because country dances were often the only thing to do on the weekends. My town had colorful characters, like the white middle-aged guy with a thick Midwestern accent who hosted the local hip-hop radio show. It was close-knit. It was quirky. It was humble. Now, the population is said to be between seventy and eighty thousand. “Man camps,” RV parks, and converted portable buildings housing hundreds of itinerant oil field workers have cropped up near where

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the local drive-in theater once operated. Lookalike tract homes are being slapped together on craggy desert parcels on the outskirts of town. Lines at Albertsons and Walmart have become so long that a friend told me she drives a half-hour to Artesia to buy groceries in order to avoid them. On the south side of town, traffic regularly backs up, as truck after truck makes its way to the oil fields. According to my family friends, you never see anyone you know when you’re out running errands anymore. These surreal scenes are jarring enough, but juxtaposing them with the extreme economic changes that the industry has brought to southeast New Mexico makes them even more disturbing. Base rates for hotels are around three hundred dollars a night, and rent for an average two-bedroom apartment is typically more than two thousand dollars a month. The long and low mid-century homes on Riverside Drive, Carlsbad’s toniest street, are being demolished and replaced by ten-thousandsquare-foot architectural monstrosities with giant front doors made from scrolled iron. Many local teens skip college, and some don’t bother to graduate high school, because even the lowest-level oil field jobs start at around twenty dollars an hour. I recently saw a young man who couldn’t have been more than twenty-three driving a brand-new Corvette. Garth Grizzle, a wonderfully named retiree of the Natural Resources Conservation Service, has a unique perspective on the region's fracking boom. For the past eight years, he has worked for Richardson Cattle Company, a large-scale ranch that grazes its animals on 145,000 acres east and south of Carlsbad. Grizzle serves as Richardson’s liaison to the oil companies that are fracking on their grazing land. Like most cattle ranching operations in New Mexico, the vast majority of the land Richardson leases for its cattle is owned by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) or the State of New Mexico, meaning the company has no say on whether or not fracking companies can lease mineral rights where they run their cattle. The BLM and the state set carrying capacity, the number of cows that can safely be grazed on the land. With drought in the area in recent years, that carrying capacity has diminished to six to eight animals per six hundred forty-acre section. The fracking activity on the land has forced Richardson to decrease the number of cattle it raises even further. When fracking companies lease land for drilling, their footprint isn’t just the well itself. They must also build a road to access it, install power lines and pipelines, and construct holding tanks and large ponds to hold the fresh water waiting to be used in the fracking process, as well as

It seemed paradoxical to me at first, that they would cling so hard to something so devastating to the community, the surrounding rangelands, and possibly the water supply, but the money the industry [oil and gas] has brought to the town is difficult to resist. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Aerial view of the Oil Patch in Eddy County, part of the Permian Basin, revitalized by the fracking industry, and rumored to have more drilling pads then anywhere else in the country. Photo by Julie Dermansky.

the so-called produced water, the chemically-treated byproduct of the process. All this development kicks up dirt, creating soil erosion that damages the surrounding rangeland. Grizzle said, “This is pretty marginal rangeland to start with, and with the drought situation we’ve been experiencing for the last five or six years or even longer, those numbers [of cattle] have to come down. So you’ve got the droughts to deal with and now all the oil field activity that’s come to the area. It’s going to make things really hard for the ranchers because we’re losing our carrying capacity hand over fist.” And decreasing carrying capacity means decreasing income for the business. “It’s got the ranchers down here pretty concerned because their livelihood is under fire,” Grizzle said. Lisa Ogden, a fifth-generation rancher and third-generation farmer in the area, said that her cattle ranching operation has decreased by about a third due to the influx of fracking wells on her grazing land. Danny Berry of Berry Ranch estimated that the effects on his ranch have been similar. Both have chosen to diversify to keep their businesses afloat. In addition to the oil activity’s taking up rangeland and causing erosion, another concern of Grizzle’s is the amount of water fracking consumes. For every barrel of oil that is extracted, four to five barrels of water are used. Since two hundred million barrels were extracted from the 66

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

Permian Basin in 2018, that means almost a billion barrels of water from the area were consumed in the process. Grizzle said, “We’re limited on water anyway, and now we’re pumping it down the wells to frack with. . . . When you take this water out of the water cycle and put it down an oil well, that water is gone forever.” Because of the chemicals used in fracking, the produced water it creates is considered a biohazard and is often disposed of in saltwater beds that lie ten to twenty thousand feet underground, removing it from the water cycle completely. Injecting the water into the saltwater disposal wells is expensive, however, so fracking companies are getting more creative with how they deal with produced water. “Understand this: everyone tries to make water an emotional issue, and it’s not an emotional issue. It’s a money issue,” said Larry Gregory, another family friend, whose former company supplied the Carlsbad area oil fields with around seventy percent of the water used in fracking operations. He explained one new solution for produced water that has pleased environmentalists as well as oil executives. “Most of the oil companies are trying to re-frack with the same [produced] water. They take as many chemicals as they can out of it, and then they mix it with freshwater. The percentage is usually fifty-fifty produced to fresh water,” Gregory said. He added, “I think the technology will be such that in three more years, they won't need to use any freshwater in fracks.”

Left: Flare on a drilling site outside Carlsbad. Right: Oil refinery in Artesia. Photos by Joanna Manganaro Toto.

Though supportive of efforts to reduce freshwater usage, Eleanor Bravo, Southwest director of Food and Water Watch, warned of other proposed uses for produced water, such as “the potential and probable use of produced water to irrigate crop fields, which is happening in California right now.” Last year, the leader of the New Mexico Department of Energy, Minerals, and Natural Resources announced proposals to use filtered produced water for farming and ranching and possibly even for drinking water. Bravo explained that though the water may be filtered, toxic chemicals, heavy metals, and even radioactive material still remain. “Another problem,” she added, “is that, though these wells go below the water table, we do know that fracking fluid has leaked from many wells, and this has been proven in a number of places in the United States. This fluid could then pollute your groundwater and your aquifer, which would have a terrible effect on your crops, your rangelands, your livestock, and your drinking water.” Ogden has seen firsthand what produced water can do to rangeland. “On the legacy locations [drilling sites from the 1970s to early 1990s] on our ranch, they had produced water ponds, and all they did was let them dry out and shove the dirt in. They didn’t have to haul off all the contaminated soil.” As for what those sites look like now, decades after the contamination, Ogden said, “It’s bare ground. You can’t grow anything. In some places, it’s not even just weeds. It’s nothing.”

Laws have been put in place to regulate the disposal of produced water, but spills and leakage in the fracking process still occur. They were reported seven hundred thirty-three times in 2018 in Eddy County alone (where Carlsbad is located), according to the New Mexico Oil Conservation Division. Though Gregory assures me that BLM inspectors are holding fracking operations accountable for spills and leaks, he admits that the state is understaffed. Overall, it’s difficult to get an accurate picture of the effects of fracking in southeastern New Mexico because, like most controversial issues, it has become political. As much as they complain about the traffic, the huge increase in population, and the high price of real estate, the majority of Carlsbad residents don’t want the Democratic-led state legislature to take any steps to curtail fracking in the region. It seemed paradoxical to me at first, that they would cling so hard to something so devastating to the community, the surrounding rangelands, and possibly the water supply, but the money the industry has brought to the town is difficult to resist. As to whether or not fracking in the region should be stopped, Garth Grizzle said, “There's no easy answer, and whichever way it goes, somebody gets hurt.” richardsoncattlecompany.com, foodandwaterwatch.org, emnrd.state.nm.us/ocd WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Culture of Subdivision CREATING AN UNCERTAIN FUTURE FOR THE EAST MOUNTAINS By Michael Dax Â· Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Purebred Mangalitsa piglets at Polk's Folly.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

t shouldn’t be surprising that one of the most renowned books about New Mexico, John Nichols’s 1974 The Milagro Beanfield War, focuses on a dispute over water. In the book, developers from Albuquerque have come to a fictionalized version of Taos, seeking to build, among other things, a golf course that will to cater to out-of-state visitors. As part of this plan, they have cut off local townspeople’s and farmers’ access to water. That is, until one farmer accidentally breaks the valve on an irrigation pipe, spilling water over his beanfield and inciting an at-times humorous rebellion. Today, a similar, if more nuanced version of this same conflict is playing out in the East Mountains, the collection of towns on the east side of the Sandias. Since the late 1990s, this largely rural, somewhat agrarian community has experienced a growing influx of newcomers from Albuquerque and elsewhere looking for a slice of relaxed country living a stone’s throw from New Mexico’s largest city. Less a wave than a trickle, the suburbanization of the East Mountains has seen punctuated bursts, like the construction of the Paa-ko Communities, a 3,600-acre planned community featuring a twenty-seven hole golf course. More recently, another developer has proposed a similar, four thousand home community across the street from Paa-ko that would have two golf courses and has left longtime residents wondering, where will all the water come from? As life imitates art, it is perhaps fitting that a somewhat mischievous pig played an outsized role in Nichols’s seminal story, because at the center of this fight are Zach and Ethan Withers, who raise heritage breed hogs at their farm, Polk’s Folly, in San Antonito. Their grandparents bought the land just two years after Nichols’s book hit shelves, and for years they operated the forty acres as a horse farm. Both brothers grew up on the land, but after living in Vermont for nearly a decade, Zach returned three years ago with a desire to farm. Based on the area’s tempestuous weather, a general lack of water, and their small acreage, the brothers decided hogs would be most appropriate for their land, and with this same set of factors in mind, invested in a trio of breeds well suited for the sometimes cold, sometimes dry climate of the East Mountains. Mangalitsas, a curly-haired breed that originated in the Carpathian Mountains and were originally bred by the Hapsburg Empire, have been referred to as the “Kobe beef of pork.” The brothers also raise a Red Wattle-Duroc cross to take advantage of the Duroc’s ease of handling and the tasty dark meat from the Wattles.

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Although their farm operation requires relatively little water, both brothers are concerned for what the area’s future may hold, not just for agriculture, but for anyone hoping to call it home. “I’m way more worried about my kids and grandkids having a reserve of water to pull on in times of extreme drought than I am about being able to irrigate my cornfields,” Zach says, sardonically. Like almost everyone who lives in the East Mountains, the Withers rely on well water. With no year-round stream or other source of reliable surface water, nearly everyone either collects their water or gets it from a personal well, but recently, more and more residents’ wells have started to go dry. When I visit in late January, Zach and Ethan point out an empty, grassy bowl—a pit their grandmother dug with a tractor she bought after a lucky night at Bingo. As kids, they remember the grassy bowl filling with spring runoff and remaining full throughout the summer. It served as a refuge for birds as well as a place for them to play and have fun. Last year, however, it filled for only a few days of the year, and although last year’s snowpack was particularly poor, increasingly, the former pond is dry more often than it’s wet. “There’s a whole number of factors,” says Zach. “Less snowpack, less precipitation in general, and the watershed health has gone down. As you chop it up into smaller pieces, you don’t get the same sort of ecological processes.” To combat this, the Withers have employed techniques like rotational grazing in order to improve the health of their land and soil. They recognize that their work can only have so much impact on the broader watershed, but for them, it’s a demonstration project they hope others will follow. For them, the real issue is the number of people. Looking out from the edge of the dry pond, nearly a dozen shining rooftops are visible. When she first moved here as a girl, Zach and Ethan’s mother, Sandi, recalls all of that land being open space. Even more worrisome than the number of people is the lack of regulations. “That guy can sell those two acres, build another house, drill another well,” says Zach, pointing to a new neighbor whose land was recently cut into a fiveacre parcel. “There’s no mechanism in place to govern that sort of thing. If you can buy the land and get a building permit, then the Office of the State Engineer will give you a permit for a well regardless of whether there’s water to support that.”

As life imitates art, it is perhaps fitting that a somewhat mischievous pig played an outsized role in John Nichols’s seminal story, The Milagro Beanfield War, because at the center of this fight are Zach and Ethan Withers, who raise heritage breed hogs at their farm, Polk’s Folly, in San Antonito. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Left: Zach and Ethan Withers of Polk's Folly. Right: Zach with Big Ben.

On top of this, the aquifer under the East Mountains is complex and difficult to understand. “There are a number of stacked, discrete aquifers,” says Phillip Rust, a hydrogeologist with Bernalillo County. This has created a scenario where some people’s wells are doing fine while others are going dry. “Some wells are staying static, or barely dropping,” Rust observes. “Yet a few hundred yards away, water levels are dropping eight to ten feet per year, even though there is no real difference in overall use and the wells are drawing upon the same aquifer.” This has made it hard for Rust and other experts to provide guidance to landowners on what to expect in the future, but for the Withers, the answer lies in better awareness among residents about the source of their water. “All the water we get is water that falls out of the sky and hits the ground,” says Zach. “It takes decades, maybe millennia, for it to reach back down to the aquifer. There’s such a disconnect between the way people think about it and the reality of the situation.” This disconnect is something that Daniel Puccini, founder and owner of Roots Farm Café, sees as well. Puccini grew up in the East Mountains but for a number of years before moving back and opening the farm, café, and education center, Puccini lived and worked at a farm in western North Carolina without any running water. Despite the fact that water was plentiful, he had to haul in all of his drinking water—an experience that forced him not to take for granted how precious water truly is. “We’ve become so spoiled. We don’t realize all the energy that’s going into getting our water here,” says Puccini about living in the East Mountains. 70

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

For his part, Puccini has started an education center offering field trips, talks, and workshops to everyone from large school groups to small groups of adults on topics focused on sustainability, from ecology to permaculture. Some programs have a broad focus while others are geared more directly toward helping people develop tools that will allow them to live sustainably and long-term in the region. For example, since starting the farm roughly six years ago, Puccini has relied solely on what he can capture and store. “It’s not a very good trade-off to grow food for your neighbors when you’re drying up all the water,” he says. This is why he doesn’t use any well water. In fact, he doesn’t have a well at all. His parents, who live nearby, have had two wells. One went dry thirty years ago, and the second went dry just three years ago. These experiences have been instructive for Puccini, who has learned that relying only on what he can capture will help him live within his means. Currently, he has about ten thousand gallons of water storage spread across his land, but he hopes to continue to grow that capacity. Because of last year’s abysmal snowpack, he had to let a certain amount of his garden die; he just didn’t have enough water to go around. Moving forward, Puccini hopes to expand and have enough so that the water he collects during the monsoon season will be able to last through the winter. Following Puccini’s lead, the Withers brothers are in the process of installing a series of cisterns so they can collect water off every roofline

Red Wattle-Durocs at Polk's Folly.

on their property. Likening it to the gold rush that came to the area roughly one hundred years ago, Zach sees the subsequent bust coming— this time driven by the community facing a scarcity of water. “I think long term you’re going to go through a boom-and-bust cycle,” he notes. “You’re going to have to see a huge shift away from groundwater usage.” While most of the debate within the East Mountains community has pit agriculture and open space against residential development, more and more people are starting to take a closer look at the different kinds of agriculture in the area and their relative sustainability. “It would be worthwhile making some very clear distinctions because talking about agriculture as a whole sum is unproductive,” says Zach. “What we’re doing has absolutely nothing to do with what everyone in Estancia is doing.” Zach’s invocation of Estancia is in reference to farmers who grow crops like alfalfa and corn using center pivot irrigation, which tends to be inefficient and employ massive quantities of water. Currently, Estancia’s aquifer is in better condition than that of the East Mountains, but with Paa-ko pumping water through a pipeline from that basin to supply its community, looming conflict appears inevitable. This is an issue that Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, executive director of the Quivira Coalition, an organization focused on sustainable agriculture, recognizes as well. “We’re at a crossroads of thinking about agriculture in this state,” she remarks. “If we are going to prevent being in serious crisis mode, we have to have a cultural shift towards thinking about agriculture as a tool for managing these resources.”

In January, the developers eyeing the Campbell Ranch lost an appeal to access one hundred million gallons of groundwater on the basis that it would impact existing water rights. Many in the community celebrated the victory while knowing that the saga could likely continue. Either way, the larger question has remained unanswered. Regardless of any future large-scale developments, current rates of water usage cannot be sustained. Puccini and the Withers acknowledge that there’s no silver bullet, but all agree that the answer lies in building a stronger sense of community that will bind people together and encourage them to act like water is the shared resource that it is. “It needs to start from an awareness of waste and how conservative you can be with water,” says Puccini. Comparing it to the way recycling has become an ingrained, socially policed practice, he continues, “It needs to become second nature.” In that same vein of creating internal social pressures, the Withers stress the importance of creating that sense of a shared future. “Investing a lot in building community and creating the social networks—the mycelium, the interconnectedness—between all people who live here,” says Zach. “If you don’t have that, everything goes to shit.” Polk's Folly polksfolly.com Roots Farm Cafe 11784 NM-337, Tijeras, 505-900-4118 rootsfarmcafe.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

START SUMMER RIGHT!

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lawyerjen Blood orange ricotta tea cakes with crystallized roses. These soft little cakes would be so good with a cup of tea! #edibleNM

picnic_nm The ornate design on this silver beauty immediately reminded me of the fancy blue mold rind on Monte Enebro, a lemony goat cheese from Spain. #edibleNM

porc505 So much fun today working with amazing local products! Always a blast making prickly pear biscotti! #edibleNM

foodtournm Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been here? Had a wonderful lunch at @sweetwatersantafe today. This is the house salad with grilled shrimp. #iHeartNMfood #edibleNM

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

MARKET PLACE • LOCAL FINDS Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers.

TIN-NEE-ANN Trading Co. Family Operated - Family Friendly Since 1973

Welcome to Santa Fe

923 Cerrillos Road at St. Francis Drive 505-988-1630 ∙ tinneeann2@gmail.com

Est. 1984

EAT LOCAL Santa Fe Local Food Subscription Service

Taste the Best of Every Season! Products change weekly based on availability from over 25 New Mexico farms.

ENJOY $5 OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER CODE: EDIBLE-SPRING

Wholesale Specialty Cheese/Meats/Provisions 300+ Cheeses from around the World www.b-cow.com · 505-473-7911

SquashBlossomLocalFood.com

LAWN SPRINKLER EXPERTS Repairs/Installations Landscape Remodeling Fruit Tree Pruning

505-319-5730

nmlawnsprinklerexperts.com

319 5th Street, SW, Albuquerque, NM 87102 / 505.886.1119 http://eventsbymonamis.albuquerquecatering.net

Specializing in International Comfort Food With a Healthy Approach! PROUDLY HOSTING

March-October 4-8pm

www.mariposamusicrocks.com

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Y O U R LO C A L S O URCE G UID E FOOD ARTISANS / RETAILER

LODGING

AlbuKirky Seasonings specializes in finely crafted rubs, sauces, and jellies featuring red and green chile and other Southwest flavors. Albuquerque, albukirkyseasonings.com

Relaxing ambiance and luxurious amenities. 20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, Santa Fe, 505-455-5555, buffalothunderresort.com

AlbuKirky Seasonings

Bountiful Cow Cheese Company Purveyors of fine cheese, meats, and provisions from around the world. 505-473-7911, B-cow.com

Eldora Chocolate

Eldora crafts chocolate using natural, organic, and fair trade ingredients. 8114 Edith NE, Albuquerque, 505-433-4076, eldorachocolate.com

Friday Night SoDo Market

Reoccuring on Fridays from 4pm–8pm. Located on 5th Street between Silver and Lead in Albuquerque. mariposamusicrocks.com

Heidi's Raspberry Farm

Sumptuous, organic raspberry jams available throughout New Mexico and online! 600 Andrews, Corrales, 505-898-1784, heidisraspberryfarm.com

La Montañita Coop

La Montañita Co-op is New Mexico's largest community-owned natural and organic food market. Locations in Albuquerque, Gallup, and Santa Fe, lamontanita.coop

New Mexico Ferments

Local, fresh, probiotic kombucha. Find us on tap at Albuquerque farmers markets as well as breweries and distilleries in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Taos. newmexicoferments.com

Santa Fe Olive Oil & Balsamic Company

This local interactive tasting room offers the finest quality extra virgin olive oils, balsamic vinegars, gourmet salts, and specialty foods. Shop in-store or online. santafeoliveoil.com

Savory Spice Shop

Spice specialist with a variety of blends as well as extracts, sauces, and specialty foods. 225 Galisteo, Santa Fe, 505-819-5659, savoryspiceshop.com/santafe

Skarsgard Farms

Delivering fresh, local, and organically grown produce and natural groceries to doorsteps across New Mexico. 505-681-4060, skarsgardfarms.com

Squash Blossom Local Food Inc.

Santa Fe local food subscription service. Products from over twenty-five New Mexico farms. squashblossomlocalfood.com

Talin Market

88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque, 505-268-0206, talinmarket.com

Tri County Farmers Market

May thru October, Wednesdays & Saturdays, 8am–12pm. 6th & University, Las Vegas, 505718-2110 or 575-421-0100

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

Buffalo Thunder, Hilton Santa Fe

El Paradero

Our 200-year-old farmhouse, Santa Fe's oldest inn, is located in historic downtown Santa Fe. 220 West Manhattan, Santa Fe, 505-988-1177, elparadero.com

Heritage Hotels & Resorts

Providing guests with an authentic cultural experience in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Taos, and Las Cruces. hhandr.com

Hotel Andaluz

Andaluz, short for Andalusian, evokes the passion and pride of the region of Spain that has inspired the hotel’s decor and architectural style. 125 Second Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com

Inn of the Anasazi

Featuring 58 rooms which reflect a sophisticated modern aesthetic celebrating the hotel’s southwestern spirit. 113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3030, rosewoodhotels. com/en/inn-of-the-anasazi-santa-fe

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Sarabande B & B

Comfort, elegance, and simplicity. 5637 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-348-5593, sarabandebnb.com

NURSERIES & SERVICES Alameda Greenhouse

Located in the North Valley and dedicated to growing and maintaining all manner of outdoor plants—veggies, fruit trees, flowers, shrubs, and perennials. 9515 4th Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-898-3562, alamedagreenhouseabq.com

deerBrooke

Irrigation and backflow prevention specialists. Repairs, installations, and consulting. 505-319-5730, NMLawnsprinklerexperts.com

Grow Y'Own

Year-round cedar raised beds with hoops and covers. 505-466-0393, raisedbed.biz

Osuna Nursery

A family-owned and operated nursery, gardening center, and landscaping company. 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque, 505345-6644, osunanursery.com

ORGANIZATIONS, EVENTS, & EDUCATION Eldorado Art Tour

May 18 and 19, 10am–5pm, in Eldorado at

Santa Fe. Spring studio tours with largest number of artists and artisan participants in New Mexico. eldoradoarts.org/studio-tour

New Mexico Cocktails and Culture

May 31 – June 2, Santa Fe. NMCC Culinary Week, featuring participating restaurants, cooking classes, pop up dinners and more on June 2 – 9. nmcocktailculture.com

New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs

505-827-6364, newmexicoculture.org

New Mexico Museum Foundation

116 Lincoln, Santa Fe, 505-982-6366 ext.100, museumfoundation.org

New Mexico Wine

winecountrynm.com

University of New Mexico Art Museum

Visit artmuseum.unm.edu for a list of exhibitions.

OTHER SERVICES Garcia Auto Group

8449 Lomas NE, Albuquerque, garciacars.com

RETAILERS

Next Best Thing to Being There

An eclectic shop for handmade products. 1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, 505-433-3204, beingthereabq.com

Sarabande Home

We have a passion for finding the perfect gift. 4022 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com

Tin-Nee-Ann Trading Co.

Family operated and family friendly since 1973. 923 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-988-1630 facebook.com/TinNeeAnn

The Golden Eye

Located in Santa Fe, we offer 18 karat and 22 karat gold jewelry handmade by local artisans. 115 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, 505-984-0040, goldeneyesantafe.com

WINE STORES Arroyo Vino

Nearly 1,000 hand-selected wines, beers, and spirits available to choose from, and the staff to help you decide. 218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Parcht

We are a wine and beer retail shop specializing in unique finds and local favorites. 103 East Plaza, Taos, 575-758-1994, parcht.com

Susan's Fine Wine and Spirits

Offering the selection you desire, and the service you deserve. 1005 S St. Francis, Santa Fe, 505-984-1582, sfwineandspirits.com

FERMEN TS

KOMBUCHA

. Local . Fresh . Probiotic .

South Indian cuisine

newmexicoferments.com

colombian bistro

now open

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients.

COOKING CLASSES OFFERED, PLEASE CALL TO INQUIRE.

TRIFECTA COFFEE COMPANY

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795

218 Gold Ave SW, ABQ 505-265-4933 hartfordsq.com

The Shop is now serving dinner as the Nightshift on Friday and Saturday nights from 5pm-10pm . Serving local ,organic, and seasonal dishes—rotating weekly menus to bring you something creative and fresh!

NOW IN CANS!

www.secondstreetbrewery.com

E A T & DRI N K LOCAL G UID E ALBUQUERQUE

Ajiaco Colombian Bistro

Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by the diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. 3216 Silver SE, 505-2662305, ajiacobistro.com

Artichoke Café

Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients, classic French techniques, extensive wine list, private dining, catering, and great atmosphere. 424 Central SE, 505-243-0200, artichokecafe.com

Campo at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Rio Grande Valley cuisine rooted in seasonal organic ingredients from our own farm. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Cutbow Coffee

Roastery, tasting room, coffee bar. The culmination of more than 25 years' experience by one of the nation's most accomplished artisan coffee roasters, Paul Gallegos. 1208 Rio Grande NW, 505-355-5563, cutbowcoffee.com

Farina

Starting with the finest organic flour, our pizza crusts are made by hand and topped with the freshest ingredients, including artisan cured meats. 510 Central SE, 505243-0130, farinapizzeria.com

Farina Alto

Farina Alto offers fresh, creative fare. Gather over a glass of wine, a good story, and a phenomenal plate of food. 10721 Montgomery NE, 505-298-0035, farinaalto.com

Farm & Table

A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com

Grassburger

The feel-good, award-winning burger— 100% grassfed beef, vegan, or poultry! 11225 Montgomery, 505-200-0571, eatgrassburger.com

Hartford Square

Cozy, downtown eatery; local, organic, and seasonal menu. Breakfast, brunch, lunch, & dinner-to-go. Local beers, wines, coffees & teas. 218 Gold SW, 505-265-4933, hartfordsq.com

Il Vicino

Serving authentic wood oven pizza in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Multiple locations in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. ilvicino.com

Kosmos Restaurant

Great food, great beer, great vibe! 1715 Fifth Street NW, factoryon5.com

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

MAS Tapas y Vino

MÁS is a full-service restaurant and tapas bar inspired by the bold flavors, rich history, and exuberance of Spanish cooking. Located in the Hotel Andaluz, 125 Second Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz. com/mas-tapas-y-vino

Salt and Board

Salt and Board, a charcuterie-based cork and tap room in the heart of the Brick Light District. 115 Harvard SE, 505-219-2001, saltandboard.com

Savoy Bar & Grill

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining and a casual patio. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Oak-fired grill, local and seasonal ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town. 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com

The Grove Cafe & Market

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch

Latin and creole influenced spin on American classics. Serving breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Saturday and dinner during the Nightshift Friday and Saturday nights. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795

Trifecta Coffee Company

We roast coffee and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods are made in house. 413 Montano NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com

Zinc Restaurant & Wine Bar

A three-level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine and late night bar bites. 3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462, zincabq.com

Dolina

We serve modern American brunch with Eastern European influences. Open 7 days a week. 402 N Guadalupe, 505-982-9394, dolinasantafe.com

Eloisa

Creative, elevated takes on traditional New Mexican fare plus tasting menus and craft cocktails. 228 E Palace, 505-982-0883, eloisasantafe.com

El Nido

Come and engage all your senses and be a part of the experience. 1577 Bishops Lodge, 505-954-1272, elnidosantafe.com

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Come visit the best specialty coffee shop in Santa Fe with amazing food, unique coffees roasted onsite, and super fast high-speed internet. 314 S. Guadalupe and 1600 Lena, 505-428-0996, iconikcoffee.com

Il Piatto

An authentic italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms and ranches. Extensive wine list. 95 West Marcy, 505-984-1091, ilpiattosantafe.com

Luminaria Restaurant & Patio

Inventive Southwestern fare served amid rustic-sleek decor inside the Inn and Spa at Loretto. 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-984-7915, hotelloretto.com

Loyal Hound

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com

Market Steer Steakhouse

Where refined dining meets fun dining. 210 Don Gaspar in the Hotel St. Francis, 505-992-6354, marketsteersteakhouse.com

Ohori's Coffee Roasters

The original source for locally roasted coffee beans, gifts, and gathering. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St. Francis, 505-982-9692, 507 Old Santa Fe Trail, ohoriscoffee.com

SANTA FE

Opuntia

Contemporary American cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients. 113 Washington, 505-988-3030, innoftheanasazi.com

Paper Dosa

Anasazi Restaurant & Bar

Arable

Inspired by the bounty of New Mexico, and the small community of Eldorado, Arable was born. 7 Avenida Vista Grande, 505-303-3816, arablesantafe.com

Arroyo Vino

We serve progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Tea, food, and botanical curiosities in Santa Fe's Baca Railyard. 922 Shoofly, opuntia.cafe Bringing fresh, authentic homestyle South Indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more. 551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com

Posa’s Restaurants

Posa’s tamales—our New Mexican tradition since 1995. 1514 Rodeo and 3538 Zafarano, 505-820-7672 or 505-473-3454, santafetamales.com

E A T & DRI N K LOCAL G UID E Raaga-Go

TerraCotta

Europa

Radish & Rye

The Compound Restaurant

Michael's Kitchen Restaurant and Bakery

A gourmet Indian takeaway restaurant. Lunch Monday–Friday and dinner Monday–Saturday. 410 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-983-5555, raagatogo.com Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu. 548 Agua Fria, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com

Red Sage

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list. 20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, 505-819-2056, buffalothunderresort.com

Santa Fe Brewing

Founded in 1988 by thirsty people desperate for good beer. Multiple locations in Santa Fe and Albuquerque. santafebrewing.com

Second Street Brewery

Over sixty handcrafted beers, food, music, and events. Three locations in Santa Fe. secondstreetbrewery.com

Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen

Discover Sweetwater Dinner—Tuesday through Saturday. 1512 Pacheco, 505-795-7383, sweetwatersf.com

Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list. 304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon Road, 505-982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com

Regionally inspired eats with a tongue-incheek menu in a casual space decorated with knickknacks. 304 C N, Pueblo St Rd, Taos, 575-758-4178, michaelskitchen.com

Pajarito Brewpub & Grill

GREATER NEW MEXICO Ancient Way Cafe

A unique outpost offering great meals from scratch and fresh baked goods. Located 1 mile east of El Morro National Monument in Ramah, 505-783-4612, elmorro-nm.com

Black Bird Saloon

Indulge yourself in the grub, Wild West style, perhaps a juicy and flavorful El Chivato Burger or a Black Jack Ketchum. 28 Main Street, Los Cerrillos, 505-438-1821, blackbirdsaloon.com

Blades’ Bistro

A new concept by Peculiar Farms. 2105 Highway 314 NW, Los Lunas, 505-261-3605, facebook.com/europacafeandmarket

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list. 221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com

Open for lunch Tuesday–Sunday. Open for dinner every day. Happy hour Tuesday– Sunday 2–5pm. 30 craft beers on tap. 614 Trinity, Los Alamos, 505-662-8877, pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

Parcht

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-1994, parcht.com

Revel

Farm to table, elevated comfort food, in a fast-casual environment. 304 N Bullard, Silver City, 575-388-4920, eatdrinkrevel.com

The Gorge: Bar and Grill

Our menu is straightforward, yet eclectic, and chock-full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-8866, thegorgebarandgrill.com

Thank you to our Chefs Collaborative members who are

OWL PEAK FARM

Dolina chefscollaborative.org

Interested in becoming a member, contact stephanie@ediblenm.com. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Your Water Footprint the Food in Your Fridge Illustrated by Kelli Cameron

WINE

29 gallons per glass

BEEF

BEER

518 gallons per pound

EGGS

50 gallons per egg

800 gallons of water per day are required to produce enough food for one person. edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

28 gallons per pound

CHICKEN

1848 gallons per pound

20 gallons per glass

LETTUCE

CUCUMBER 42 gallons per pound

ASPARAGUS 258 gallons per pound

TOMATO 26 gallons per pound

Sources: United Nations International Observances and Water Footprint Network

â&#x153;· THE DESTINATION FOR THE BEST IN FOOD & WINE W E E K LY W I N E S E M I N A R S WINE DINNERS & MORE

ARROYOVINO.COM 505.983.2100 7 Y E A R S I N S A N TA F E

Spring 2019: Groundwater

Articles inside

Culture of Subdivision

Carlsbad's Cattle Ranchers Get Fracked

Invisible Water

A Vital Solution

Humble Coffee Company

Searching for Sochan

Root to Stem

A Steak Different

Southwest Gold