Black Bean and Ham Flautas

seasonal Recipe

Black Bean and Ham Flautas

These flour tortilla flautas are pan fried instead of deep fried, making them less heavy with a very flavorful filling of black beans and leftover ham. Add the garnishes and a side salad for an easy and delicious dinner.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS

Olive oil

11⁄2 cups cooked black beans or a (15-ounce) can of black beans, rinsed and drained 1⁄4 cup green salsa

Juice of 1 lime

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1⁄2 teaspoon Hatch chili powder

Salt and pepper, to taste

3–4 ounces local, sustainable or Niman Ranch ham, diced

2 ounces smoked gouda cheese

4 (8-inch) flour tortillas

Garnish: cilantro, sour cream, avocado, salsa

Egg Salad Sandwich

What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs.

Makes 2 sandwiches

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste

In a medium pan, preferably nonstick, heat some olive oil on medium-high heat. Add the beans along with the salsa and lime juice; stir to combine. Add the spices, salt and pepper and cook for 4–5 minutes, mashing the beans as you stir so that it becomes a Additions: thick paste. Add the ham and cheese and stir to combine. • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped Arrange the tortillas on your work surface and divide the black bean celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped filling equally amongst them—putting the filling in a large strip onion down the middle. Roll or fold each one so that it covers the filling • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, and place seam side down. cilantro, chervil or tarragon Clean out the pan or grab a new one and place over medium heat, • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the adding enough olive oil to evenly coat the bottom. Put each flauta pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash seam side down into the heated pan and cook for 2–3 minutes, of white wine vinegar press down slightly and flip it over and cook another 2–3 minutes, Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun)or until golden brown and crisp. Serve two per plate and garnish Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional) with any or all of the following: chopped cilantro, drizzle of sour Additional pickled vegetables (optional) Lettuce cream, avocado slices and salsa. —Krista Harris AMY ROBB Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix until incorporated but with a still chunky texture. Taste and add more seasoning or additions if needed. Create an open-faced or closed sandwich using additional

For some locals, a Saturday morning stroll through one of the area’s biggest farmers markets is a habitual start to every weekend. Arrive at the downtown Santa Barbara Farmers Market empty-handed at 8:30am and leave with armfuls of vegetables, fruit, herbs, eggs, meat, cheese, bread, flowers and plants from as many as 90 vendors. Head to the Tuesday Farmers Market on State Street and make an evening of it— meandering down the street for shopping, wine tasting, live music and dining. Our farmers markets are generally year round and rain or shine, but hours can vary from season to season, so check market websites or call for more information.

Carpinteria

Carpinteria Farmers Market 800 block of Linden Ave. Thu 3–6:30pm SBFarmersMarket.org

Goleta

Camino Real Marketplace At Storke & Hollister Sun 10am–2pm SBFarmersMarket.org Lompoc

Lompoc Certified Farmers Market Ocean and I St. Fri 2–5pm Facebook.com/ LompocCertified FarmersMarket

Orcutt

Central City Farmers Market Oak Knoll South Corner of Bradley Rd. and Clark Ave. Tue 10am–1pm Farmers Market Orcutt on Facebook Montecito

Montecito Farmers Market 1100 & 1200 blocks of Coast Village Rd. Fri 8–11:15am SBFarmersMarket.org

Santa Barbara

Downtown Santa Barbara Farmers Market Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota St. Sat 8:00am–1pm SBFarmersMarket.org

Old Town Farmers Market 500 & 600 Blocks of State St. Tue 3–7:00pm SBFarmersMarket.org

Saturday Fishermen’s Market Santa Barbara Harbor Sat 6–11am CFSB.info/Sat Santa Maria

Santa Maria Farmers Market Broadway & Main St. (located in Town Center West) Wed noon–4pm SantaMariaValley.com Downtown Fridays Corner of Main St. & Broadway Fri 4–8pm (Seasonal) SantaMariaValley.com

Solvang

Solvang Village Copenhagen Dr. & First St. Wed 2:30–6pm (until 6:30pm in summer) SBFarmersMarket.org

Vandenberg Village

Route One Farmers Market 3745 Constellation Rd. Sun 10am–2pm

Road Trip Day Trippin’

As the world begins to reopen, we are all looking for things to do that don’t require getting on a commercial airplane just yet. As such, our local Edible teams put together a very limited list of suggested activities and places to eat by county to keep your summer active, all within a two- to fourhour drive.

From southern San Luis Obispo County on down to northern San Diego County, one of the best ways to beat the summer heat is well known: Head to the beach. However, beaches can get crowded, especially on weekends and very hot days. Our recommendation? As long as you are not looking for the extra safety of lifeguards, seek out lesser-known beaches—some that might be just up the street from the popular sites— and enjoy more space to play. Be cautious of riptides, though. It could be worth your time to search ocean safety information on Parks.Ca.gov.

Each county also boasts gorgeous hiking trails and designated bike paths. Check out AllTrails.com/US/ California to get started.

For an interactive version with links and more information, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com to view our digital issue!

San Luis Obispo County

(30-minute to 2-hour drive)

For more information on SLO County visit EdibleSLO.com.

Day Trip Idea 1

Stop in at Gopher Glen Apple Farm stand in San Luis Obispo (open mid to late summer) to grab some locally grown fruit and treats while you wait for your appointment to soak in the natural minerals at Avila Hot Springs. Nearby, Avila Beach boasts a lovely car-free boardwalk with shops and eateries to enjoy. Or, if you are in the mood for a hike, check out the Seven Sisters of San Luis Obispo (Nine Sisters in SLO County) and pick your trek based on time and difficulty. If you are feeling ambitious, you could start your day standing in line to get the monstrous handmade-daily cinnamon rolls at Old West Cinnamon Rolls in Pismo Beach.

Day Trip Idea 2

Grab a takeaway lunch at Splash Café in San Luis Obispo on your way out to Montaña de Oro State Park, just past Los Osos, for hiking, beach exploring and maybe a whale sighting or two. For an extra treat, stop at Ember in Arroyo Grande for a handcrafted wood-fired dinner on the way home. If you make it into town on a Thursday, be sure to make time for the Downtown SLO Thursday Farmers Market from 6–9pm.

Day Trip Idea 3

Start the day off early and catch farm-fresh breakfast on the patio with ocean views at Lido in Pismo Beach. (Make reservations for the Champagne brunch for a great deal!) Spend a bit of time walking the newly refurbished pier and promenade or stroll the beach to help digest. If you feel up for some fast fun, rent ATVs or dune buggies and spend the day in the Oceano Dunes. Try The Spoon Trade in Grover Beach to grab seasonal dinner before the drive home. Or if peanuts sound good, stop in at Klondike’s Pizza in Arroyo Grande where you can throw the (free) peanut shells onto the floor as you munch.

Santa Barbara County

In Santa Barbara County we have our choice of day trips to the cool coast or the sunny wine country—either way adventure in your own backyard awaits.

Day Trip Idea 1

Spend the day wine tasting. Pick a geographic area, a type of wine or a specific varietal to focus on. Then select wineries that fit your criteria. You should expect to pay around $15 for a tasting, but the fee is often waived if you purchase wine or join the wine club. Stay hydrated and well-fed by scheduling a lunch in between tastings or a leisurely picnic. For picnic supplies, stop by Bob’s Well Bread (in Los Alamos and Ballard), Cailloux Cheese Shop (in Solvang) or Lucky Hen Larder (in Santa Ynez).

Day Trip Idea 2

Summer is a great time to visit Lotusland when the lotus are blooming. Located in Montecito, this exquisite estate has a series of gardens filled with rare plants and stunning landscape design features. Reservations are required for the two-hour selfguided walking tour. After your tour, stop for gelato at Here’s the Scoop or grab a bite at one of the many restaurants lining Coast Village Road.

Day Trip Idea 3

Try out a new beach. Santa Barbara County has miles of beautiful coastline and accessible beaches. If you are looking for something a little different, take the drive to Jalama Beach with options for camping or day-use picnic areas. About an hour from Santa Barbara, the turnoff from Highway 1 takes you along a 14-mile scenic drive. At the beach, try one of the “world famous” burgers from the Jalama Beach Store and Grill. And now for something a little different—Mystery Picnic Experience. Plan ahead for this one. Order a friends or family picnic adventure from AmazingCo and explore Santa Barbara and locally owned businesses by solving clues sent to your smartphone. Pick up prepaid food and visit the local cultural sites suggested on your way to your final picnic destination.

Ventura County

(30-minute to 2-hour drive)

For more information on Ventura County in general, visit EdibleVenturaCounty.com.

Day Trip Idea 1

Drink in the local scene. Hit the local hiking trails early in the day and plan for a stop at one of the ice cream shops as a reward. Be sure to bring loads of water and a camera! Some of those vistas are breathtaking. Finish off the day strolling around the Harbor Villages in Oxnard or Ventura to keep things cool.

DayTrip

Day Trip Idea 2

Visit an island. Pack a large picnic lunch and lots of water, grab a spot on an Island Packers boat (or private plane with Channel Islands Aviation if you’re feeling fancy) and head out to the spectacular Channel Islands National Park for a day of hiking, kayaking, snorkeling or scuba diving. Primitive camping is available, but there are no services available on the islands, so pack it in and pack it out!

Los Angeles County

(1.5-hour to 3-hour drive)

For more information on LA County in general, visit EdibleLA.com.

Day Trip Idea 1

From Long Beach, head over to South Catalina Island via Catalina Express ferry. Once there, the options are endless! Rent scuba gear or a kayak for a water adventure; book a foodie tour; rent a golf cart in downtown Avalon and check out the gorgeous island views and landscape; hang out on the beach; hop on the Nautilus for a semi-underwater tour; or book the Catalina Island Zipline Tour. Want to do it all? Rent a room and plan a longer stay! Day Trip Idea 2 (especially with kids) Spend the earlier part of the day at the Discovery Cube in Santa Ana (in nearby Orange County), then plan a visit to the Time Travel Mart in Echo Park on the way home. Timing matters here, though, so either give yourself lots of time to sit in traffic, or plan to avoid the busiest times (6–9am and 3–7pm).

Day Trip Idea 3

Bike it out. This trip is best done on a cooler day (earlier summer) or earlier in the day (9am probably being the latest start time). Grab bikes (or rent them), catch the Rails to Trails bike path at the Ventura Pier and head to Ojai. The path is a very manageable gradual up, but if you are not an avid biker, take it slow and take breaks as needed. Maybe stop for a coffee on the way, and try Sage Ojai or Ojai Rôtie for a lovely outdoor lunch. When it starts to get too warm, coast your way back to the beach.

Day Trip Idea 3

After a day at the beach or some lovely oceanfront hiking, grab an early dinner (opens at 5:30pm) at Opaque in Santa Monica for a dining-in-the-dark experience. Then grab a bottle of wine and a blanket and head over to Cinespia for an outdoor movie at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. Bonus Trip Idea H

Leave your stilettos at home and grab an Uber or assign a designated driver for this adults-only day trip to explore the fun and quirky side of LA. If you plan for the right Sunday, you can

Road Trip

start with the local-maker-focused Hollywood Artisan Market on La Cienega or, if it has reopened, Smorgasburg Los Angeles in DTLA, the largest open-air food market in America. For lunch, try the gorgeous Michelin-chef-run Openaire, perched atop the Line Hotel on Wilshire. To work that off, consider a walking tour of the hidden staircases or seeing if you can find the Sunken City (access to the ruins prohibited). Pair dinner with a tour at the Lost Hills Distillery, an LA treasure surrounded by a moat. Then finish off the evening with a drink or two at Davey Wayne’s (only open Th–Sa—and only if you can find the secret entrance).

Above left to right: Sunken City, San Pedro (MSPhotographic). Solana Beach (Loco Steve). Bottom; Torrey Pines hike (Aaron Castagna), San Elijo Lagoon Ecological Reserve (Nadine Castagna)

San Diego County

(North County) (3- to 4-hour drive)

For more information on San Diego County visit EdibleSanDiego.com.

Day Trip Idea 1

Solana Beach is the perfect seaside town for a summer day trip or overnight stay. It even has an Amtrak train station for those who want to ditch the car. Enjoy a day at the beach or browse the shops in the artsy Cedros Design District. Stop by Claire’s On Cedros for a hearty breakfast or lunch or pick up something to-go at Claire’s Too, their nearby coffee shop and bakery. In the evening check to see who’s playing at the Belly Up Tavern.

Day Trip Idea 2

If it is nature you want, start the day exploring the eight miles of trails at Torrey Pines State Reserve, just south of Del Mar. Check out Bird Rock Coffee Roasters on the way in and for lunch try Bushfire Kitchen on the way back to the 5 freeway for some tasty health-conscious options or, to stick with ocean views, eat on Sbicca’s rooftop terrace. Finish the afternoon with an educational stop to walk the trails at San Elijo Lagoon Ecological Reserve. Bring a camera! You might catch a glimpse of a rare bird species. If you still have time for an early dinner, try Ki’s Restaurant just down the street for hearty homestyle meals with an ocean view.

Day Trip Idea 3

Another eco-conscious beach town worth exploring, an Encinitas trip should be planned on a Sunday to ensure time to visit the Leucadia Farmers Market, found in the playground of a local elementary school. See what Pannikin Coffee and Tea has to offer and maybe take your drink down the street to Stonesteps for a stair climb down to a stunning beach surrounded by steep cliffs. When you are ready to move on, find parking near Encinitas Boulevard and North Coast Highway 1 and enjoy a leisurely stroll south, where you will find adorable shops and amazing restaurants, including Prager Brothers, which features long-fermented sourdough and organic pastries. Just two blocks away on B Street, find the beach access to Moonlight Beach. Or walk all the way down to K Street to try Swami’s Café, and then check out the surf at Swami Beach.

A Chat with Fanny Singer

WORDS BY Anna Maria Giambanco Dipietro

One Sunday morning in March, I was fortunate enough to sit and chat (via telephone) with Fanny Singer, author, art critic and co-founder of the lifestyle brand Permanent Collection. The daughter of restaurant royalty, she released a memoir with recipes entitled Always Home: A Daughter’s Recipes and Stories in March 2020. The timing could not have been more appropriate for a book with such a title when you recall just where we all spent most of our time at the start of the pandemic.

My husband gifted me a copy of the book, procured at a Santa Barbara County bookshop, The Book Loft, in Solvang. Singer pulls readers in as she shares poignant snapshots of travels, meals and a charming cast of characters that whisk you away to Berkeley, Provence and beyond. From meals with famous chefs to bohemian feasts at a blacksmith’s forge in San Francisco to wine tasting with renowned winemakers in France, Almost Home is part travelogue and part slideshow of what it was like growing up as the daughter of activist, author and OG earth mama Alice Waters.

The stories from Singer’s life and 60 recipes provided just the right hit of escapism and inspiration, as I’d hit a pocket of what I refer to as Covid Cooking Fatigue. I wanted to know Singer’s thoughts on this topic, and we had a lovely chat that touched on the importance of sustainability, connecting with nature and finding inspiration in and out of the kitchen.

Back in the spring of 2020, Singer was in Berkeley with her mom where she, like the rest of us, faced the uncertainty

GARETH HACKER

Egg Spoon

of a pandemic, including concerns about shopping for fresh ingredients. She shared how they’d make “compost stock” using vegetable trimmings to brew healthful soups. That lost its luster in time, and so many of us had similar experiences, particularly when faced with the challenge of preparing three nutritionally sound meals a day, every day.

These days, Singer lives in Los Angeles, where she finds inspiration Left to right: Alice Waters and Fanny Singer. at local farmers markets. I couldn’t help but feel encouraged as we spoke about available for pickup or delivery on Wednesdays. It’s a nice way the importance of shopping for fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. to check out what might be a new-to-you local business while Whether she’s experimenting with citrus and passion fruit or, as supporting sustainable farming practices in our community. she put it, “finding 50 ways to use kumquats: curing, roasting Lastly, if you’re looking for a unique kitchen implement, and preparing fresh salsa for tacos.” She shared how strolling the consider the Egg Spoon from Fanny Singer’s Permanent market in Hollywood has also become a way to spend time with Collection. I love that the brand collaborates with craftspeople her godmother. A great tip for flushing out Covid-related fatigue: in the United States, Europe and Japan to produce small runs of Walking a farmers market with friends and loved ones in search products using high-quality materials and unique processes. An of vibrant, regional ingredients can be absolutely healing. easy way to try your hand at fire cooking, infuse some fun into

Having been present at the birth of the farm-to-table breakfast and get your kids into (supervised) cooking al fresco, movement, Singer said, “Shopping at farmers markets can be a this tool might just be the way to go. An added perk: 5% of every life-affirming experience; seeing what’s happening in nature at spoon purchase is donated to The Edible Schoolyard Project, that moment in the season will revive you.” She touched on the founded by Alice Waters in 1995. beauty of Qi or ch’i in traditional Chinese culture, and how it So, may I suggest we all take Fanny Singer’s advice “get out pertains to the life force in our food. Qi translates literally as for a hike, see the ocean, stand barefoot and enjoy some of that “air” and figuratively as “energy flow” and “material energy.” Santa Barbara uni—it’s so fresh and, dare I say, as good as the When taking this concept into account, you may view the uni imported from Japan to make sushi!” oranges or kale you picked up today with newfound appreciation. Grab a copy of Almost Home, and find yourself agreeing with Singer reminds us that the very life force in the food we consume author Ruth Reichl when she said of Singer’s book, “I’m pretty determines how healthy or unwell we are. “There is no ‘nature sure everyone who reads Almost Home will come away with the and us’—we are a part of nature, deeply integrated into the same feeling I have: Why don’t I live like this? How can I do natural world.” better? I love this book.”

Being conscious of how and where our foods are grown, Same here, Ms. Reichl, same here. having reverence for nature and tasting the terroir in our foods keeps us inspired, healthy and connected. I was beyond pleased that Singer, a Berkeley native, suggested that I visit a farm in Goleta. The Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens is a California nonprofit organization established in 1997 by a family friend of Singer. Santa Barbara locals can take advantage of the farm stand, as well as weekly pre-packaged produce bags

Anna Maria is a copywriter based in Santa Barbara County. She draws from her experience as a wellness professional, plant-based cook and graphic artist to create approachable, educational content. Anna Maria is also a wine writer with WSET Level 2 with distinction certification.

Creating Community Resilience

WORDS BY Jennifer LeMay

What is it about gardens that brings people together? I think it has to do with the joy of working outside, seeing plants grow, harvesting fresh food and, of course—as kids in their school gardens will tell you—getting dirty.

Ecology, collaboration, permaculture and food literacy are the pillars of a new project that connects gardens with schools and the community while benefiting the local environment. The Santa Barbara Ecological and Edible (SBEE) Garden Project is envisioned as an archipelago of edible permaculture gardens that will promote biodiversity, increase access to locally grown food and create a connection between the community and natural ecosystems.

Santa Barbara City College (SBCC) and local nonprofit Explore Ecology have teamed up and were awarded a $100,000 grant from the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to collaborate with five community partners on the project. The SBEE Garden Project will bring together teachers, students and community members of all ages. I had the opportunity to speak with some of the key people involved and learn how this timely project and significant funding will benefit our community and local ecosystems.

“This is the largest EPA Environmental Education grant ever awarded to an organization in Santa Barbara County and one of the largest in California in recent decades,” says Rachel Johnson, director of grants for the SBCC Foundation. “It speaks to the

collaborative work and far-reaching impact of SBCC, Explore Ecology and our incredible community partners.”

The garden locations range from schools and youth centers to community gardens and homes. Students and community members will visit, study and work in the gardens, sharing the lessons and bounty the gardens produce. Their efforts will help revitalize local landscapes, establish native habitats and sustainable food systems, improve soil and water quality and help build community resilience. The gardens will provide food for those in need, helping to address the high levels of food insecurity in our community.

The scope of the SBEE Garden Project resonates with the principles of permaculture design. Permaculture gardens are developed over time, using observation and flexibility to adapt to a particular site’s needs and promote healthy ecosystems. Five diverse nonprofit partners will contribute their unique expertise and learning opportunities: Somos Semillas of El Centro, United Boys & Girls Clubs of Santa Barbara County, Mesa Harmony Garden, Youth Drought Project’s Community Food Forest, and the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden. The project will connect the edible gardens to each other and to the community through educational programs and research.

“By slowing down and asking the right questions, we are creating a garden that will help build community resilience.”

Vegetables growing in a demonstration raised bed at Mesa Harmony Garden. Signs near the entrance to Mesa Harmony Garden.

JENNIFER LEMAY

The gardens provide important habitat for pollinators. In addition to honey bees, many native pollinators will visit gardens that feature native plants. Bananas growing at Mesa Harmony Garden.

Daniel Parra Hensel teaches environmental horticulture at SBCC. The students in his Advanced Permaculture Design course work closely with community members to design a foodproducing, native-habitat garden as part of the Somos Semillas (“we are seeds”) program at El Centro Community Center in Santa Barbara. Their detailed design report will incorporate input from everyone involved with the center, and students in subsequent courses will work on garden installation.

“The community is front and center in this process—we asked about their vision for the garden and what they want to grow and eat,” says Daniel. “By slowing down and asking the right questions, we are creating a garden that will help build community resilience.”

Says Adam Green, PhD, professor of environmental science and biology at SBCC, “This grant will allow us to create spaces that restore biodiversity, grow healthy food, connect with the community and educate students. These efforts show how a community college can reach out beyond its campuses and partner with residents, community groups and local schools to make Santa Barbara a healthy and enjoyable place to live and raise your family.” Students will also continue to develop the permaculture gardens at SBCC that started in 2015 and supply produce for the campus food pantry.

The two-year grant will also allow Explore Ecology to devote an extra hour per week at six Santa Barbara School District schools through its School Gardens Program. For 25 years, the nonprofit has been a vital force for garden education, providing dozens of schools and youth groups with on-site gardening programs. Lindsay Johnson, executive director of Explore Ecology, says they will work with SBCC and others in the network to connect all of the gardens with the standardsbased education taught at surrounding schools. “We’re really looking forward to this project—partnering with SBCC students, hosting educational events for families and creating a bridge between the school gardens and the community.”

Last year, a winter vegetable garden provided healthy snacks for children at the Westside unit of the United Boys & Girls Clubs of Santa Barbara County. Jesse Gonzalez, the club director, says that they will rehabilitate their garden with assistance from SBCC students and faculty with the grant funding. He’s looking forward to the garden providing more opportunities for the children, as it’s a central part of their after-school program that promotes healthy lifestyles.

“The kids enjoy the fresh produce and get exercise as they help plant, water, weed and harvest the vegetables,” Jesse says. “It’s been great, as it’s something we’ve been able to do outside and safely during the pandemic.” The new garden will also include plants to attract native pollinators and a stormwater catchment system to reduce water runoff pollution from the facility.

Mesa Harmony Garden, a volunteer-led community food forest in the Mesa neighborhood of Santa Barbara, features more than 100 fruit trees, among other crops. The churchowned land sat vacant for many years until 2010 when a group

of SBCC students proposed creating an edible garden with the goal of sharing food with those in need while building community.

Board president Hugh Kelly has been volunteering at the garden from the start. He says, “Mesa Harmony Garden is a mature food forest, where SBCC students and others can discover firsthand the potential for urban landscapes to become biodiverse and productive edible gardens with healthy soil, well-managed water and no chemical inputs.” Through the SBEE Garden Project, they hope to expand their volunteer base and educational programs, inspiring similar gardens at people’s homes and community spaces.

Another food forest in the Mesa neighborhood is just getting started—in the front yard of a private home. Heading up the project is Brad Smith, founder of the Youth Drought Project. He explains that SBCC faculty and students will work on garden design and installation and that most of the food will go to the SBCC student pantry. Explore Ecology will help develop an educational component so that community members can visit the garden to learn about native species, water retention and runoff prevention, drought resistance and growing food. “Our goal is to show that the most beautiful gardens are productive and designed to emulate nature,” Brad says.

The Santa Barbara Botanic Garden (SBBG) will research insect pollinators in four of the project’s gardens. The SBBG’s mission is to conserve California’s native plants and habitats, which play an integral role in sustainable gardening and provide resources for both pollinators and beneficial pestcontrol insects.

SBBG Director of Conservation and Research Denise Knapp says, “Our SBCC intern will monitor the gardens from season to season, gathering data on the insects that are visiting and which plants are supporting them.” They will work with SBCC on the research project and use the California Pollinator Project’s Citizen Scientist Pollinator Monitoring Guide to analyze and report the data. (She says there are about 1,600 species of native bees in California!) They plan to share their information through the iNaturalist social network of naturalists, citizen scientists and biologists.

Thanks to the SBEE Garden Project, our community will benefit from edible gardens that promote biodiversity, native habitats, local food production and community resilience. With assistance from select local agencies and organizations, the project partners will track and evaluate results from all of the project activities.

Gardens help to build resilience on many levels. They’ve long been spaces where people join together to work, create, learn about natural systems—and remember that it’s fun to dig in the dirt.

Jennifer LeMay is a writer, designer and artist. She’s grateful for great local food, our bountiful farmers market and all those who work to make our community and food system more resilient.

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

Finding Solutions to Food Waste

WORDS BY Janice Cook Knight

In nature, there’s no such thing as waste. Food that is I realize that many don’t have these options available or not eaten by humans or animals becomes food for other wouldn’t enjoy composting and keeping chickens even if they organisms, such as worms, mold or bacteria. It gets broken could. In our modern life, with food so abundantly available down into its component molecules, eventually becoming soil (for many of us, but certainly not all) we don’t have to be as or water. Everything is broken down and completely recycled. concerned with where our food is coming from or where our

And yet, in our modern food system, food waste is an spoiled food is going, either. But it wasn’t always like this. For enormous problem. It’s estimated that 25% or more of all many folks, getting enough food to eat, as well as storing food produce in America is wasted: It either goes bad, or simply is for the future, is of great concern. not eaten. If you consider all foods, including prepared food, Humans have developed many ways to preserve food. that number is more likely between 30 and 40%. Drying, smoking, pickling, curing, cold-storage and lacto-

In our household, we definitely fermentation (which is responsible waste some food. That’s certainly Why is so much food going to for sauerkraut, cheese and yogurt) not our intention, but it happens. I’m not sure what percentage is waste? With an abundance of food have been used since ancient times. More recently we have wasted. We try to use things up, and seed available, why are added canning, refrigeration and and we try not to overbuy. This last people going hungry? freezing, coatings such as wax year especially, with food shortages on apples and even wrapping and the need to stay home, we’ve plastic around vegetables, such as become conscious of using every precious bit. We’ve eaten out very cucumbers, to help keep them fresh longer. little. I’m astounded at the meals we’ve made from leftovers. This People learned to preserve food to survive lean times, mainly is how people have always operated in less abundant times. And it winter. Now we ship some foods many miles, and preservation is the way many people must live now, in this country and all over is meant to help keep food relatively fresh after a trip across the the world. state, the country or around the world.

When I have to throw out food we haven’t used—lettuce The Goleta-based company called Apeel got its start as gone bad, slimy parsley at the bottom of the vegetable drawer, an incubator business in 2012. James Rogers was a graduate mushy cucumbers we forgot we had—it goes into our compost student in materials science at UCSB who became fascinated pile, so I don’t perceive it as exactly wasted. It’s going to be with how to make fresh produce last longer. One day, while made into soil. Foods that are marginal go to our chickens, a driving through lush farmland, he listened to a podcast about great source of recycling, as they turn food past its prime into global hunger. He wondered, Why is so much food going to eggs that we will eat. Their waste product, chicken manure, will waste? With an abundance of food and seed available, why are eventually be composted and added back to our garden soil. We people going hungry? also have a couple of worm bins. The worms turn old produce At the time, his research project involved solar power. But and coffee grounds into “worm gold”—worm compost, an the food questions stuck with him, and eventually he began excellent soil additive. doing another kind of research: What if there was a way to add

longevity to fruits and vegetables to keep them from spoiling? The company has developed different formulas, and one of His research was so promising that the Gates Foundation them meets certified organic standards, already being applied to donated $100,000, and Apeel Sciences was born. apples. So far, Apeel doesn’t have market competition.

All fruits and vegetables naturally have a “skin” on their Apeel benefits retail outlets since its coating slows down surfaces, a protective coating to help keep moisture in and keep natural decomposition, giving produce more time to be oxygen out. This skin surface, called “cutin,” is composed of purchased while optimally ripe. It’s beneficial to the consumer fatty acids such as lipids and glycerides. The skin of an orange because an avocado will last twice as long on my kitchen is more protective than the skin on a strawberry because of counter at home. It’s beneficial to growers because it gives them the arrangement of molecules. So oranges last longer, but both more time to wait until fruit is fully ripe before picking it. oranges and strawberries (and all other fruits and vegetables) The technology reduces our carbon footprint by saving water, have the same molecular components in their skins. All are reducing plastic usage and reducing the use of some pesticides subject to eventual decay. Rogers and his team discovered a and fungicides. A tremendous amount of water is saved because water-soluble formula made from the peel, seeds and pulp of the water used to produce crops has not “gone to waste.” fruits and vegetables. The coating, a powder mixed with water, Since Apeel began to research and eventually develop a viable is then applied in various ways, such as dipping or spraying. product, further investments have added $380 million to the

Asparagus will not last long without refrigeration. Leave a bunch company, which is now valued at one billion dollars. Investors of asparagus on the kitchen counter for a day, and it will become include the Rockefeller Foundation, Viking Global, The Gates wilted and limp. Eventually, it will Foundation, Andreessen Horowitz, decompose. But carefully wrapped, Oprah and Katy Perry. Pretty then placed in a refrigerator drawer Apeel benefits retail outlets since amazing growth for what was once (which is often humidified), that its coating slows down natural a small Goleta startup. Now the same asparagus will last several days, especially if it was very fresh to begin decomposition, giving produce company is mid-sized, with offices in several other countries as overseas with. Lettuce is another example of more time to be purchased markets are being developed, a food that desperately needs refrig- while optimally ripe. including sub-Saharan Africa, eration. Being mostly made of wa- Mexico, Central and South America ter, it will go bad very quickly. First, and Southeast Asia. Apeel is already the lettuce dehydrates. Then oxygen goes to work on it to further established in Europe in partnership with the Dutch food break it down; eventually, molds will set in. company Nature’s Pride. Avocados are a popular product. Apeel is

In nature, these processes are a good thing. Eventually, working with small farmers in Africa to treat cassava root, a staple the asparagus or lettuce will break down completely, and crop in many parts of the world. Apeel intends to help small under the right conditions, become part of the soil: nature’s farmers who do not have access to refrigerated supply chains. perfect process. But when these vegetables spoil before being Organic apples treated with Apeel are available in the used, all the work of farming, the cost of water, fertilizer, Northwest. Apeel avocados can be purchased at Kroger markets transportation, distribution and marketing that went into the in the United States, which includes the Ralphs chain locally. asparagus or lettuce has essentially gone to waste. Even though Caviar limes, a local Santa Barbara product from Goodland I can compost those vegetables, a great deal of energy used to Farms, are sold on the Fruitstand website. grow and market those items has been expended, without the A cucumber is about 95% water. Houweling, based in intended payoff. Camarillo, is a large producer of English cucumbers. Their

Jason De Turris is senior vice president at Apeel. He shared cucumbers had been wrapped in plastic, but they’ve switched Apeel’s motto: Food Gone Good. The coating “doubles or to Apeel. The coating is more effective than plastic, and in a triples the time that produce will keep, depending on the year’s time the company will save as much as 60,000 pounds of particular item. It keeps what’s already good, good—including plastic wrap. textures—and for longer.” The Apeel coating is invisible I have to admit I was a bit skeptical at first. Adding a and without taste. There’s no need to remove it before eating coating to food to keep it longer? Then, it occurred to me that produce coated with it. It’s not allergenic and is considered refrigeration is a fairly recent development, only about 100 years by the FDA to be “generally regarded as safe (GRAS). Apeel old (for home use), and yet we rely on it constantly to keep our doesn’t impact the respiration rate of the produce or the food fresh. I imagine some people protested refrigerators when ethylene gas in bananas. The usual ripening process happens as they were first invented—they must have seemed so strange. it normally would, just more slowly. I see Apeel’s product as a response to our modern world.

Apeel has developed a way to keep produce fresh longer, which greatly reduces waste in stores and at home and makes shipping produce more viable. Crops still need to be carefully picked and handled; the Apeel coating won’t be effective if an avocado or an apple has been punctured in shipping because oxygen finds its way in to do damage.

Already the stores that are selling Apeel-coated produce have experienced economic benefits. Avocados ripen more slowly, giving them twice as long to be sold. It is so beneficial to the producers and retailers that they are happy to pay for the product themselves, and the cost is not passed on to the consumer—a win-win for everyone.

Of course, I had to taste an Apeel avocado. The Ralphs store on Carrillo Street downtown had an Apeel avocado display right at the entrance to the produce section. I bought two plump avocados, which looked like Haas, but simply said they were from CalAvo, grown in Mexico, and also wore Apeel stickers. They seemed nearly ripe. Do Apeel avocados ripen the way an untreated avocado would, I wondered? The next day the end of one of them seemed slightly soft, just like a ripe avocado should. I cut into it, and the knife went in like butter. I have to say the avocado was unusually creamy and delicious, one of the best avocados I’ve eaten lately, and I eat avocados almost every week.

Does Apeel have applications at the farmers market? It’s possible, though if you are buying produce that is very fresh, it’s not likely necessary. Special equipment is needed to apply the coating. Since farmers markets sell directly to consumers, there is no middleman and no real-time delay between harvest and sale; plus, the produce I buy at farmers market seems twice as fresh already as what I’d buy at a grocery store. Small farmers hope to sell out of everything they are bringing to market that day, and they plan for that. Though it gave me pause: While I can keep most produce in my refrigerator and have it last long enough for me to use it within a week or two, strawberries tend to go bad very quickly. While apples and beets can keep well wrapped in a vegetable drawer for literally weeks, strawberries and raspberries are fragile. I would love for them to last twice as long. Still, there is something beautiful about their fragrant fragility. If strawberries lasted longer, would it spoil my experience of them? The taste of some delicate foods is fleeting; their time is so short—or so I have always thought.

There are many causes of food waste, and Apeel can help remedy some of them. What can we, personally, do to improve the situation? It might help to have better national education about “use by” dates on food. A lot of good food is routinely thrown out because people misunderstand those designations. And, Americans tend to devalue our food since we typically spend much less on food than other countries do. Is it because we have so much inexpensive junk food in this country?

Eating local food is important to reduce food waste. If food doesn’t have to travel a great distance, we are saving greenhouse gas emissions and reducing our carbon footprint. Added benefit:

We are supporting local farmers, along with our local economy, and also insuring we will have food available. This past year, more than in any year I can remember, I am grateful that we have a strong local food supply because food shortages, especially in supermarkets, were pervasive.

Our local food bank has a Backyard Bounty program to share surplus food with our community. Refrigeration and freezing are still great ways to keep food fresh. We can also learn more about preserving food when we have excess (see below.) We need to be collectively thoughtful, strategizing to buy the food we need without overbuying and using what we have on hand in a timely manner.

Janice Cook Knight is an award-winning writer, cookbook author and cooking teacher based in Santa Barbara. She enjoys gardening, music and the science of cooking, and is thrilled by a good recipe. She blogs with her daughter Sarah Migliaccio Barnes at TriedAndTrueKitchen.com and can be found on Instagram @triedtruekitchen.

Waste Not Want Not RESOURCES

A few good books to help preserve our food bounty:

Preserving Food Without Freezing or Canning: Traditional Techniques Using Salt, Oil, Sugar, Alcohol, Vinegar, Drying, Cold Storage, and Lactic Fermentation

BY THE GARDENERS & FARMERS OF TERRE VIVANTE (CHELSEA GREEN, WHITE RIVER JUNCTION, VERMONT, 2007)

Well-Preserved: Recipes and Techniques for Putting Up Small Batches of Seasonal Foods

BY EUGENIA BONE (CLARKSON POTTER, NEW YORK, 2009)

The Joy of Pickling: 250 Flavor-Packed Recipes for Vegetables and More from Garden or Market

BY LINDA ZIEDRICH (HARVARD COMMON PRESS, BOSTON, 2009)

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EAT. DRINK. THINK.

How we inhabit this planet and envision its future is more critical now than at any time in our history. is past year has certainly taught us that—it has exposed our vulnerabilities, our frail insigni cance in the scheme of things. Yet during this turbulent and challenging time we have also found hope.

On the following pages, we bring you the rst in a series of thought leadership stories that span topics on sustainability, hunger, restaurant revitalization and regenerative agriculture. ese are the values that Edible Communities, as an organization, has been devoted to for the past two decades. Our work lends itself to the singular notion that excellent storytelling has the power to change lives; and that by exploring and elevating important conversations like these, we can create massive change.

We also know that change is impossible without the support of our readers —consumers who have the power to reshape the world we live in. Every farmer, rancher, entrepreneur and organization we champion is better o because of you. You read, learn, take action and vote with your forks. It will be you who ultimately tilts the scale toward a more sustainable future, a more sustainable food system. ank you for joining us as we collectively set our sights on creating a future that is nothing less than extraordinary. One that binds the ecosystems of our lives to Mother Nature without a disconnect between what is on our plates and where it comes from—where all of the seemingly smaller choices we make today add up to massive, beautiful and everlasting positive change.

Tracey Ryder Co-Founder, Edible Communities

Marshall Johnson, Vice President of Conservation Ranching for Audubon standing in a eld of prairie grass.

Photo courtesy of Audubon

Words Bill and Katie Delaney Photos Jesse Brantman

THE BIRDS & THE BEEF

WORDS BY Joy Manning + PHOTOS BY Candice Vivien

You’ve seen the headlines: Beef is destroying the planet. You’ve heard all about the greenhouse gases and pollution a typical beef operation produces. But the idea that beef is an environmental disaster isn’t quite that simple. ose dire warnings are based on one kind of beef: e conventional, factory-farmed kind. And it is, by far, the most commonly consumed beef in North America. In fact, 97% of the beef in the US food supply is grain-fed, feedlot beef.

But there’s another way to produce beef, a way that actually enriches the environment. And it’s happening across at least 3.5 million acres of American grassland. Kay Cornelius, a fourth-generation rancher and new general manager at Panorama Meats, intends to add another million acres to that total by 2030 through a groundbreaking new partnership with an unlikely ally: e National Audubon Society.

A NEW SEAL OF APPROVAL

“All of our data proves that grassland birds are the most imperiled group of bird species in America. Grassland birds have lost 53% of their population since 1970, and 95% of all grassland birds live on cattle ranches,” says Marshall Johnson, vicepresident of Audubon’s conservation ranching initiative. e nonpro t’s “Grazed on Audubon Certi ed Bird-friendly Land” seal was established to recognize ranches that are managed in a way that protects those birds. Saving these birds is a vital part of maintaining biodiversity. Like bees, birds are important pollinators, and they help maintain the delicate balance of a grassland ecosystem. rough Audubon’s new partnership with Panorama, every ranch in Panorama’s network will earn that Grazed on Audubon Certi ed Bird-friendly Land seal. “We began the project of introducing this certi cation in 2013, and we enrolled our rst ranch in 2017,” says Johnson. Joining forces with Panorama now means adding 1 million acres of land to the 2.5 million acres that have already been certi ed as bird-friendly. “It means a lot to partner with an organization that has built its brand in alignment with our core values,” says Johnson.

Darrell Wood, founding Panorama rancher, was the rst in the network to get certi ed. “I volunteered. I wanted to see how it went and what the level of di culty would be for ranchers,” he says. And he discovered the bene ts greatly outweighed any extra e ort. In large part, the certi cation is an acknowledgement of what Panorama ranches, all of which were already organic, have been doing for years.

As part of the program, each ranch gets an annual visit from a rangeland biologist who takes soil samples, measures the vegetation, and assesses how the ranch a ects bird life. en Audubon creates a habitat management plan for the rancher with suggestions for improvements. “ e ranches enrolled are going to become even more bird friendly, but they were already doing great things,” says Johnson.

FARMERS FIRST

Cornelius isn’t new to dramatically growing a network of environmentally friendly farmers. Before taking the helm of Panorama Meats as general manager last September, she doubled sales in her role as vice president for the biggest and bestknown name in humanely raised meats, Niman Ranch. “I spent 12 years there working for farmers, and in my new job I’m still helping farmers earn a living,” she says.

Finding ways to grow and protect a rancher’s livelihood is a high priority for Cornelius personally and central to Panorama Meats’ mission. “I grew up in a rural community during the farm crisis years. My mom and dad really struggled,” she says. e experience of watching her once-thriving farming community dry up back then informs everything she does today. “At Niman

Ranch, we really celebrated the family farmer doing the right thing and we’re doing the same thing at Panorama.” e simplest way to keep these family farms in business is to ensure they are able to get their product to market and to be paid a fair price. Being part of Panorama’s network helps them accomplish these goals, and the Audubon’s bird-friendly seal provides a major boost, a way to make these special packages of meat stand out from everything else in the butcher’s case for environmental conscious consumers.

SAVING GRASSLAND e connection between beef, birds, grassland, and climate change isn’t immediately obvious. To understand how a properly managed ranch can actually help remove carbon from the atmosphere, you have to understand the long history of North America’s grassland.

Before they were hunted nearly to extinction in the late 19th century, wild bison grazed an area just the right amount to promote the growth of a complex and robust root system without killing the plants. Domestic cows, if left to their own devices, will eat the grass down to the bare earth, destroying the grassland. To make them more like their ancestors, ranchers must use rotational grazing, moving them from spot to spot to achieve that ideal level of grazing. “Cattle can mimic what historic bison used to do. at’s why we need them,” says Johnson.

Red-winged blackbird

Continued...

4 Ways to Shop for Sustainable Meat

Not every supermarket is stocked with grass-fed, grass-finished and bird-friendly beef—yet. If you can’t find it at your store, there are still ways to purchase sustainable steaks, chops, and burgers wherever you are. Here are some tips to get you started.

1. SHOP ONLINE

Panorama has partnered with online retailer CrowdCow.com and you can nd their beef as well as meat from other high-quality sustainable ranchers there.

2. BUY A COW SHARE

In many communities, smaller farmers and ranchers will sell onehalf, one-quarter, or one-eighth of a single animal to you. Check out

EatWild.com to nd one near you.

3. SHOP AT YOUR

FARMERS MARKET

Farmers markets are typically a great place to connect with the kind of farmers and ranchers who are passionate about sustainability and land stewardship.

4. ASK QUESTIONS

When you’re shopping, ask your butcher where the beef comes from and how it was raised. is educates you and lets them know there’s a demand for sustainable beef.

Darrell Wood and Kay Cornelius of Panorama Organic

Without animals grazing, grassland becomes overwhelmed with weeds and invasive plant species. e soil quality is degraded, and animal life, birds and pollinators like bees lose their habitat. Vernal pools dry up and disappear. Without well-managed grassland, some species can even become extinct. “ ere’s a vernal pool on my ranch that hosts an endangered species called fairy shrimp,” says Wood. “I have a stream that goes through my property that’s one of the major salmon spawning streams in California.”

And then there’s the matter of carbon. It’s true that cows emit carbon into the atmosphere, about 80 tons annually for a ranch of 150 acres, according to the Texas Department of Agriculture. ere’s also a certain amount of carbon emissions associated with the farm equipment (32 tons). But well-managed grassland, with its deep root systems, lush vegetation, and rich soil, is actually able to remove 500 tons of carbon from the atmosphere per year, giving it an overall positive e ect on the environment rather than a negative one. It should be noted that this only applies to cattle ranches with high standards for land management and environmental stewardship--not conventional factory farms.

Raising beef cattle on pasture this way does take longer: Cows don’t fatten up as quickly without the grains provided by feedlots, and they expend more energy grazing than on a feedlot. It also requires more space. As a result, a rancher practicing this kind of regenerative agriculture cannot produce the same volume of beef on the same acreage as a factory farm. eir beef must therefore be sold at a premium. e preservation of this land is important to everyone, but these eco-minded ranchers can only protect the grassland, the birds, and the whole ecosystem it supports if they can earn a living doing it. at’s where you come in.

A MARKET SOLUTION e way Kay Cornelius sees it, people are looking for three things when they’re shopping for grass-fed beef. “ ey want to know it’s organic, they want to know that the animals were treated humanely, and they want to know about the environmental impact,” she says. “With the USDA organic seal and the Step 4 animal welfare standards, we had the rst two covered.” But until this new partnership with Audubon, Panorama had no iron-clad way to convey their commitment to the environment in a way easily understood by busy shoppers. e Grazed on Audubon Certi ed Bird-friendly Land seal requires third-party certi cation. Audubon is one of the most trusted names in conservation. is means, in an era of spurious label claims, the Audubon seal stands out as meaningful. According to Johnson, since the rst ranches were enrolled in the program in 2016, bird abundance has increased on those grasslands by 36%. is is a good indication that other species, especially bees and other pollinators necessary for the food supply, are ourishing as well.

“Consumers buy grass-fed beef to vote for a change in the environment. Paying a little more for beef is a nudge in the right direction,” says Cornelius. It’s a small price to pay for doing your part to preserve America’s grassland and the birds that call it home. e

SUSTAINABILITY & WINE

A Guide to the Most Common Eco-Friendly Wine Practices

WORDS BY Hana-Lee Sedgwick

Many California vineyards and wineries have dedicated much time and effort to foster a better environment, not only for their immediate benefit but also for preserving the land and ecosystems for generations to come. However, when it comes to being “green” or “eco-friendly” in wine, the various certifications and how they differ can be quite confusing. To help one better understand the different strategies for sustainability in wine, from organic to biodynamic and beyond, we’re breaking down a few of the most common green viticulture terms and certifications used in California and what they actually mean.

Organic vs. Organically Grown

Much like the organic produce you might find at the farmers market or grocery store, organic grapes are grown without the use of artificial fertilizers or chemicals like pesticides and herbicides. When a California wine is labeled as being “made with organic grapes,” 100% of the grapes used must be certified organic. “Organic wine,” however, indicates that a wine is made from organic grapes, but also that all additives such as yeasts and fining agents are organic and non-GMO and that sulfites have not been used in the production process. So, if grapes have been grown organically in a vineyard but a winemaker adds sulfur during production, the wine would be labeled as “made with organic grapes” rather than “organic wine.”

You may be wondering, what’s the big deal with sulfites anyway? Sulfites, also known as sulfur dioxide, are chemical compounds that act as a preservative to maintain flavor and freshness in wine by preventing oxidation and inhibiting bacterial growth. Sulfites can occur naturally in some foods, such as tea, dried fruit and fermented foods, and are generally safe to consume. However, a very small percentage of people are sensitive to these compounds and find that sulfites contribute to headaches and/or irritate respiratory tracts. Interestingly, sulfur restrictions for organic wine are different in Europe, where wine can contain small amounts of sulfites and still be recognized as organic. For this reason, there is much debate over sulfur limitations in the U.S., since many California wines meet the E.U.’s organic standards but can’t be labeled organic here.

“Organic” in the U.S. is the only wine term regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, as opposed to a third-party certification program. Some producers choose to have their grapes certified by a state agency such as California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), a USDA-accredited nonprofit organization that promotes and supports the organic food and agriculture movement. The benefit of going through a state agency is that it typically offers an expedited certification process—less than 12 weeks, in the case of CCOF.

Given the long-term benefits of organic farming, it may seem like a no-brainer for a winery to pursue organic certification, but it can be a costly and time-consuming endeavor. The certification process requires that the land be farmed organically for at least three years; depending on the degree of conventional farming used prior, five or even seven years can be a more realistic timeline for a full transition. Once certified, a vineyard must maintain organic practices and meet rigorous certification standards to ensure yearly renewal.

Of course, organic farming doesn’t come without challenges and risks. Without access to synthetic pesticides or chemical herbicides, things like unpredictable weather, pests and other factors outside of one’s control could result in lower yields or, worse, lasting damage to a vineyard. For that reason, some vintners choose to use organic farming practices but forgo certification, so they aren’t limited in their ability to pivot to conventional methods quickly and effectively should something threaten their vineyards.

All that being said, followers of the organic movement strongly believe the extra time and dedication is worth the effort, as they claim it can result in more interesting, characterdriven wines and that it ultimately contributes to a healthier ecosystem built for longevity.

“Biodynamic” wine production is similar to organic in that it involves organic farming practices, such as eliminating the use of chemicals, but it takes many other factors into account to employ a more holistic approach in the vineyard. Essentially, biodynamic farming views all parts of the vineyard—not just grapes, but also soils, animals and insects—as a regenerative living organism. Driven by this perspective, biodynamic viticulture uses a complex system designed to align the balance between vine, earth, stars and farmer so that each part contributes to the next to become a self-sustaining environment.

Biodynamic viticulture is guided by the principles of Rudolf Steiner, an early-20th-century Austrian philosopher who believed in aligning farming practices to the movements of the Earth. As such, biodynamic viticulture depends on the lunar calendar and astrological influences, which dictate the best days for certain vineyard practices, like pruning and harvesting, to take place, and which days to just let nature take its course.

In order to create a rich, fertile growing environment and support the overall health of the vineyard, biodynamic viticulture uses natural materials and compost-based fertilizers. Also incorporated into the process are animals such as sheep, chickens and horses, which are brought in to live on the land and fertilize it.

Biodynamics also calls for specific—albeit somewhat strange—practices in the vineyard, such as the burying of cow horns. Yes, you read that right. Cow horns are stuffed with manure, buried and then left in the ground through winter. Once removed, the materials inside the horns are spread throughout the vineyard, which is said to stimulate the soil’s vitality.

In the cellar, winemakers must practice low-intervention winemaking, such as omitting the use of chemicals or manufactured additions like commercial yeasts, to ensure the wines reflect the nuances of the vineyard.

Biodynamic wines in the U.S. must be certified, which is overseen in California by the nonprofit organization Demeter USA. While some consider the biodynamic process a bit wacky or “out there,” champions of biodynamics claim it is the best way to express terroir in wine and protect the integrity of the vineyard. In any case, some of California’s most prominent wineries are Certified Biodynamic.

Sustainable Viticulture

“Sustainably produced” wine is made with the intention of mitigating wastefulness in winemaking, from water resources in the vineyard to energy efficiency in the winery. It also takes into account social and economic responsibilities. What many people aren’t aware of, though, is that “sustainable” viticulture has no legal requirements, as it’s up to the vintners themselves to decide which techniques to implement to create a more sustainable environment. For that reason, it is one of the most flexible green viticultural practices, allowing both organic and biodynamic practices. But because it is so vague, it can come across as meaningless since it carries no guarantees of green practices.

More often, a winery will choose to pursue certification to establish credibility, of which there are a few different avenues one can take. Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing (CCSW) is one pathway, which works to ensure the long-term sustainability of the California wine community. CCSW is defined by three areas of sustainability, often referred to as the three “E’s”: Environmental Soundness, Social Equality and Economical Feasibility. To achieve the CCSW stamp of approval, a winery must translate these principles into the everyday operations of winegrowing and winemaking, with criteria ranked from 1–4 for things like water and energy usage, greenhouse gas emissions and creating favorable environments for employees and the community. Once fully accredited by a third party, the CCSW certification indicates both that the winery is certified and that 85% or more of the grapes are from certified vineyards.

Sustainability in Practice, or SIP Certified, is another soughtafter certification for vineyards, wineries and wine, with strict standards based upon the “three P’s” of sustainability: People, Planet and Prosperity. To achieve certification, a winery is measured on a set of holistic practices that look at sustainability at every level, from water management and energy efficiency to safe pest management and habitat preservation, as well as social equity and ethical business management. SIP also prohibits the use of specific, high-risk pesticides. Sustainability practices are verified through independent records and on-site inspections, with final approval granted by an independent advisory board to those wineries achieving a score of at least 75%.

Some California wine regions have their own certifications pertaining to sustainable viticulture, backed by a set of meaningful standards deemed essential to that particular region. Two examples of regional certifications include the Napa Green Certification for wineries and vineyards in Napa County, and the LODI RULES Sustainable Winegrowing Certification for vineyards within the Lodi AVA.

Given all the overlap—and, in some cases, the vagueness between various terms and certifications—it’s easy to see how eco-friendly practices in wine can be confusing to the consumer. Regardless of the certification, though, if a winery or vineyard is making a true effort to green their operations, for the good of the environment and community around them, one can’t help but applaud their dedication.

Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a Santa Barbara native who writes about wine, food and travel. As a freelance writer, editor and wine consultant, she happily spends her downtime eating, drinking and wandering, documenting it on her blog, Wander & Wine.